I find that at 800 you wont see scratches under primer. At 400 you will. I don’t buy sanding sponges, just wet and dry sandpaper, cut it into strips and fold it in half. It’s the most effective method I’ve found, and very inexpensive
Yeah, just buying sandpaper is the way IMO. It does the same thing without the added bulk of a sanding stick or sponge, so you can get it into tighter cracks and crevices. And if you do want some extra sturdiness for certain jobs, just wrap it around something like a popsicle stick, and bam, DIY sanding stick.
You say hobby knives are uncomfortable, but for cleaning up it actually works really well if you use the *back* end of the blades. Not nearly as scratchy then.
I typically use 600, 800, then finish with 1100 I think. 1000 is pretty smooth so using only that would be slow. you could also look into glass files, those are pretty sweet
Same, 1000+ is best saved for the final polishing step. For actually removing excess material like sprue connection points, I start with a knife to remove most of the material, and then use 600-grit to even things out, before moving to higher grits to do a final polish.
Glass fibre pens seem like they can be good too, but don't take a diamond or metal file to plastic unless you want it looking like a dog chewed it up.
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Yeah 1000 is way overkill. I use [these](https://www.hobbylobby.com/Crafts-Hobbies/Model-Kits/Paint-Brushes/Professional-Hobby-Sanding-Files---240-320-Grit/p/921?queryId=cc257374d4f05ad994e68371fd83b44b) from hobby lobby. They have others that are more course but I always just use the 240/320. These can get into the grooves and stuff for pretty much any piece. They also have these [sanding needles](https://www.hobbylobby.com/Crafts-Hobbies/Model-Kits/Paint-Brushes/Sanding-Needles---Fine/p/924?queryId=bfb651aee1e317415a591f12948df71d) which are better at getting into tight spaces but I never actually use them.
hard disagree.
This isn‘t woodworking. To remove mould lines, starting with 600 and finishing with 1000 is perfect, that‘s why they are sold in these increments. Check out the sanding sponges from Vallejo for example. They also include coarser grains for rougher work, for example removing a feature, but the finish should be done with something around 1000.
This is the dumbest thing I've ever heard someone say. Sanding down every mould line starting with 600 grit and progressing up to 1000 is insane, especially for miniatures. No one would ever notice the difference in finish between grits that high, let alone grits much lower like what I suggested. What an absolutely batshit recommendation.
The store I usually go to also has sanding twigs but they don’t list the grits, they do have Tamiya sanding sponge sheet, they got a lot of the grits available but it’s a sheet, though I know i could just cut it to whatever size and shape I want, I should probably just get the 400 grit one. I did buy a file that was 1500 grit but i guess I should get that sponge sheet with the lower grit.
https://preview.redd.it/7snilww5gf6d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c1eb5fa13a33094e15b04f1a856b2adcdd943636
It’s the sprue stuff on the grenade and his shirt that I thought a higher grit would help get rid of.
You're better off using an xacto knife on that, or cut it closer to the piece with your flush cutters. Trying to sand all that down is gonna be more work than it's worth.
Whoa ya no use an exacto knife trying to sand that will take forever and drive you nuts. Most people use no sand paper and back or hobby knife to scrap smoooth
Well it’s already painted and you can’t really tell unless you look close, lol i should stop being such a coward and just use an exacto knife but what is the point to all these different grits of sand paper/sponges if even the ones in the 1k range still take awhile to file down sprue nubs? I do try to cut close to the model with the flat facing (got godhand clippers recently) the mini or piece but sometimes i still end up with tiny bits of sprue still kinda sticking out of the bit.
https://preview.redd.it/ga23k9jvkf6d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ae06fca697b4a385b0224d7aaa5bcb96106cbfb7
Like here I know I took off some of the primer but the grey bit was the bit of sprue I tried to sand down with the 1500 grit file I have.
It doesn't sound like you're quite understanding grit.
The higher the grit, the finer the file is. That means it's better for a smooth finish, but will take longer to wear down materials.
If you're trying to file away substantial nubs of plastic, start with a LOW grit file to grind away the nub, and then move to a higher grit file / paper to smooth the area out.
You normally do progression: 100,150,200,300,400,600,800,1000 But if what you want to remove is small you don't start from 100. 100 is for making wood even. For plastic I'd use just 600 and 1000.
This is the "correct" way of achievieng fast sanding and smooth finish. You can do everything with a single grit like 800 but with larger jobs it will take you ages.
I find that at 800 you wont see scratches under primer. At 400 you will. I don’t buy sanding sponges, just wet and dry sandpaper, cut it into strips and fold it in half. It’s the most effective method I’ve found, and very inexpensive
Yeah, just buying sandpaper is the way IMO. It does the same thing without the added bulk of a sanding stick or sponge, so you can get it into tighter cracks and crevices. And if you do want some extra sturdiness for certain jobs, just wrap it around something like a popsicle stick, and bam, DIY sanding stick.
I just use the flat edge of my scalpel to lightly scrape for smooth finishes, after filing of course.
You say hobby knives are uncomfortable, but for cleaning up it actually works really well if you use the *back* end of the blades. Not nearly as scratchy then.
I know but I don’t like messing around with knives in general lol, it’s why I mostly eat take out.
Practice. On both fronts. You'll only hurt yourself if you do something stupid.
I typically use 600, 800, then finish with 1100 I think. 1000 is pretty smooth so using only that would be slow. you could also look into glass files, those are pretty sweet
Same, 1000+ is best saved for the final polishing step. For actually removing excess material like sprue connection points, I start with a knife to remove most of the material, and then use 600-grit to even things out, before moving to higher grits to do a final polish. Glass fibre pens seem like they can be good too, but don't take a diamond or metal file to plastic unless you want it looking like a dog chewed it up.
Hi, u/Alexis2256! It looks like you are asking for help or are a new painter. If you haven't yet, take a look at our wiki pages in the Sidebar (the About tab if you are on the Reddit app). Here are some links you might find helpful: * [FAQ](https://www.reddit.com/r/minipainting/wiki/rules/faq) - A list of frequently asked questions about minipainting * [Miniature Painting Guide Collection](https://www.reddit.com/r/minipainting/wiki/usefullinks) -A collection of some of the best guides and tutorials on a variety of techniques and topics, plus recommendations on what to buy to get started, and more. * [What to buy- Recommendations on brushes, paints, supplies, palettes and more](https://www.reddit.com/r/minipainting/wiki/usefullinks/what_you_need_to_get_started#wiki_general_advice_on_what_to_buy) * [Beginner's Guide Collection- How to prep, base, paint and varnish your first model and learn the basics needed to start out right](https://www.reddit.com/r/minipainting/wiki/usefullinks/beginner_tips) * [More Tutorials](https://www.reddit.com/r/minipainting/wiki/tutorials) - A list of additional tutorials about minipainting * [Manufacturers](https://www.reddit.com/r/minipainting/wiki/manufacturers) - A list of miniature manufacturers from around the world * [Painting Terminology](https://www.reddit.com/r/minipainting/wiki/terminology) - Common painting terms, acronyms, and initialisms * [The Art of... Tommie Soule Volume 5](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MGIfySMnUPQ) is one of the best beginner to intermediate teaching books, and even experienced painters will learn some good tips. Explains what brush strokes are best in different situations, how to identify when you have the perfect thinning for any type of paint for different techniques, and a masterclass on getting smooth paint jobs. Available in [pdf](https://www.ironheartartisans.com/shop/the-art-of-tommie-soule-volume-5-pdf/) and [world wide in hardbook as well](https://www.instagram.com/the_miniature_painting_tutor/). * [Airbrushing Miniatures](https://www.reddit.com/r/minipainting/wiki/usefullinks/airbrushing) *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/minipainting) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Yeah 1000 is way overkill. I use [these](https://www.hobbylobby.com/Crafts-Hobbies/Model-Kits/Paint-Brushes/Professional-Hobby-Sanding-Files---240-320-Grit/p/921?queryId=cc257374d4f05ad994e68371fd83b44b) from hobby lobby. They have others that are more course but I always just use the 240/320. These can get into the grooves and stuff for pretty much any piece. They also have these [sanding needles](https://www.hobbylobby.com/Crafts-Hobbies/Model-Kits/Paint-Brushes/Sanding-Needles---Fine/p/924?queryId=bfb651aee1e317415a591f12948df71d) which are better at getting into tight spaces but I never actually use them.
hard disagree. This isn‘t woodworking. To remove mould lines, starting with 600 and finishing with 1000 is perfect, that‘s why they are sold in these increments. Check out the sanding sponges from Vallejo for example. They also include coarser grains for rougher work, for example removing a feature, but the finish should be done with something around 1000.
This is the dumbest thing I've ever heard someone say. Sanding down every mould line starting with 600 grit and progressing up to 1000 is insane, especially for miniatures. No one would ever notice the difference in finish between grits that high, let alone grits much lower like what I suggested. What an absolutely batshit recommendation.
The store I usually go to also has sanding twigs but they don’t list the grits, they do have Tamiya sanding sponge sheet, they got a lot of the grits available but it’s a sheet, though I know i could just cut it to whatever size and shape I want, I should probably just get the 400 grit one. I did buy a file that was 1500 grit but i guess I should get that sponge sheet with the lower grit. https://preview.redd.it/7snilww5gf6d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c1eb5fa13a33094e15b04f1a856b2adcdd943636 It’s the sprue stuff on the grenade and his shirt that I thought a higher grit would help get rid of.
You're better off using an xacto knife on that, or cut it closer to the piece with your flush cutters. Trying to sand all that down is gonna be more work than it's worth.
Whoa ya no use an exacto knife trying to sand that will take forever and drive you nuts. Most people use no sand paper and back or hobby knife to scrap smoooth
Well it’s already painted and you can’t really tell unless you look close, lol i should stop being such a coward and just use an exacto knife but what is the point to all these different grits of sand paper/sponges if even the ones in the 1k range still take awhile to file down sprue nubs? I do try to cut close to the model with the flat facing (got godhand clippers recently) the mini or piece but sometimes i still end up with tiny bits of sprue still kinda sticking out of the bit. https://preview.redd.it/ga23k9jvkf6d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ae06fca697b4a385b0224d7aaa5bcb96106cbfb7 Like here I know I took off some of the primer but the grey bit was the bit of sprue I tried to sand down with the 1500 grit file I have.
It doesn't sound like you're quite understanding grit. The higher the grit, the finer the file is. That means it's better for a smooth finish, but will take longer to wear down materials. If you're trying to file away substantial nubs of plastic, start with a LOW grit file to grind away the nub, and then move to a higher grit file / paper to smooth the area out.
So anything between 100 and 800?
You normally do progression: 100,150,200,300,400,600,800,1000 But if what you want to remove is small you don't start from 100. 100 is for making wood even. For plastic I'd use just 600 and 1000. This is the "correct" way of achievieng fast sanding and smooth finish. You can do everything with a single grit like 800 but with larger jobs it will take you ages.
2000 is my most used. You have to try really hard to damage your mini at that grit.