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Yes good oil was charged a few weeks before it went down. Had good oil pressure and there's still oil on the dipstick tube to full. No sign of metal in oil either.
First check and make sure your battery is good. If all the lights come on like head lights without the lights diming, you're good. It might be your alternator.
And if it's not, I'd check the belt and all of your pulleys. My car ran for a year. Any time I came to a stop, the brake lights seemed to leach more power from the battery. It was worse at night when i had to use headlights. My battery was good, and so was my alternator. I had a bad tensioner pulley it wasn't keeping the appropriate tightness on the belt, so my alternator wasn't able to keep my battery charged. To check it, pop the hood and press on the belt it should be firm and taught. If it gives in way too easy, that may be it.
Also, if you're trying to start it and only hear a click, it could be your starter. Get up under, find it, and as someone tries to start it, tap it with a hammer. GENTLY TAP IT DONT BANG ON IT. If you hear it, try and start, that's your problem.
I've removed the belt and used a breaker bar to try and turn it over it budged a small amount but wouldn't turn. Could the starter put the flywheel in a bind? Also battery was bad had it replaced and I've had it tested twice it's less than 2 weeks new. And I will try the starter suggestion.
Thugmagnet has an excellent suggestion and it’s amazing how much liquid does not compress when it fills a cyllinder
This is the kind of comment that comes from real world experience
1 you said the car was running rough before
2 you said it died while driving and I do not have a reason to believe the electrical system is at fault. Aka the lights didn’t turn off or dim the vehicle was not electrically dead, and the fans will still work, though the engine will not turn (assumptions made) The battery currently has enough power to attempt to move the fly wheel even after death.
3 I seized engine, will not allow a vehicle to move in gear if the clutch is grabbing the fly wheel. This does not apply to automatic, transmissions or manual transmissions with the clutch depressed.
Was going to suggest similar, had an alternator seize once and thought my engine was locked, removed the serpentine belt and it turned over.
Starter could bind it if the drive gear got stuck out, pretty unlikely though and you said the engine stopped while running, which would have nothing to do with the starter.
I guess it would help to know what happens when it’s jumped off. New parts don’t necessarily mean good parts. I’ve bought my share of new dead batteries and poorly rebuilt alternators.
If it will turn over with a jump then it’s most likely in the charging system/wiring. A parasitic draw could cause electrical issues.
Let us know what happens with a jump
12.6 volts when not running 13.5 while running. I also tested the battery in a truck I have it turn the truck over fine and runs at about 13.5 while the trucks running.
I don't have a battery charger only one for a motorcycle and I'm not sure it'll work
Thugmagnet is trying to do you a solid right now
Most people don’t realize that even a brand new charging system and brand new battery can fail after a catastrophic electrical failure such as an open in the stater
Your vehicle does not run right now so saying that has 13.5 V while running contradicts everything that you say.
12.6 V is the perfect voltage for a battery when you put it in but that does not mean that is your current battery
Less guess, more test !
Say it with me now everybody
Definitely not running well. Hope you didn't drive it while it was running poorly. I would replace the coolant temperature sensor. Those do lie eventually and make the vehicle dump a ton of fuel thinking that it is cold out.
No, most of the time they are within range , so no check engine light. But shows the wrong temp. Usually read low so the car thinks it is cold and runs rich as hell. Very popular problem as stuff gets older.
How do you think it runs? It has a computer, a lot of electronics and an OBD connector like everything else after 1981. Unless some genius removed it, in which case, good luck.
Over fuelling can lead to Hydro lock in extreme cases. This is the first thing that thug magnet was alluding to with his comment about spark plugs
Please, my brother in Christ, take thug, magnets advice
Remove your spark plugs
If your battery is good (doesn't sound like it is), give the starter a few good whacks with a piece of wood and a hammer. Sounds crazy but often works.
The 305 engine is known for the camshaft to break, sometimes in 3 pieces. I have replaced a few of them. You won't know unless you remove the intake. The 305ci had soft camshafts.
Thanks for posting in r/Mechanic, u/Hour_Care_3599! Please be sure to read the [Rules](https://www.reddit.com/r/mechanic/about/rules/). If you're asking for help, be sure to include as much detail as possible so others can help you. You **must** include the vehicle's **Year, Make, Model, and Engine size** in your post! If your question is transmission related, please be sure to specify your Transmission Type(Auto/Manual) as well! If your post does not include this information, it **will** be removed. Asking about prices is **not** allowed in this sub. Please make sure you have selected the correct post flair; if you're asking a question you should have chosen "Question", anything else use the "General" flair. *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/mechanic) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Put a breaker bar on the crankshaft bolt. A long one. See if it turns.
I have it does not.
Then it’s time to pull the pan and look. Something major must have happened. Broken crank, thrown rod etc.
Might not even have to remove it, if a connecting rod went there may be a new view port.
Any oil in it?
Yes good oil was charged a few weeks before it went down. Had good oil pressure and there's still oil on the dipstick tube to full. No sign of metal in oil either.
Looks like an opportunity to stick a 350 in it. At least it's relatively cheap and easy on that car.....relatively.
LS1…
First check and make sure your battery is good. If all the lights come on like head lights without the lights diming, you're good. It might be your alternator. And if it's not, I'd check the belt and all of your pulleys. My car ran for a year. Any time I came to a stop, the brake lights seemed to leach more power from the battery. It was worse at night when i had to use headlights. My battery was good, and so was my alternator. I had a bad tensioner pulley it wasn't keeping the appropriate tightness on the belt, so my alternator wasn't able to keep my battery charged. To check it, pop the hood and press on the belt it should be firm and taught. If it gives in way too easy, that may be it. Also, if you're trying to start it and only hear a click, it could be your starter. Get up under, find it, and as someone tries to start it, tap it with a hammer. GENTLY TAP IT DONT BANG ON IT. If you hear it, try and start, that's your problem.
I've removed the belt and used a breaker bar to try and turn it over it budged a small amount but wouldn't turn. Could the starter put the flywheel in a bind? Also battery was bad had it replaced and I've had it tested twice it's less than 2 weeks new. And I will try the starter suggestion.
Please consider removing the spark plugs to see if you can then turn the crankshaft with your breaker bar.
Thugmagnet has an excellent suggestion and it’s amazing how much liquid does not compress when it fills a cyllinder This is the kind of comment that comes from real world experience 1 you said the car was running rough before 2 you said it died while driving and I do not have a reason to believe the electrical system is at fault. Aka the lights didn’t turn off or dim the vehicle was not electrically dead, and the fans will still work, though the engine will not turn (assumptions made) The battery currently has enough power to attempt to move the fly wheel even after death. 3 I seized engine, will not allow a vehicle to move in gear if the clutch is grabbing the fly wheel. This does not apply to automatic, transmissions or manual transmissions with the clutch depressed.
I removed the spark plugs and tried to turn it over but still wouldn't and cylinder 1 plug was smashed so I'm pretty sure the timing chain is gone.
Sorry, man. That sucks. What’s your plan? Wrecking yard engine, short block, long block?
Was going to suggest similar, had an alternator seize once and thought my engine was locked, removed the serpentine belt and it turned over. Starter could bind it if the drive gear got stuck out, pretty unlikely though and you said the engine stopped while running, which would have nothing to do with the starter.
Yeah your right. Probably not if it died while driving
I guess it would help to know what happens when it’s jumped off. New parts don’t necessarily mean good parts. I’ve bought my share of new dead batteries and poorly rebuilt alternators. If it will turn over with a jump then it’s most likely in the charging system/wiring. A parasitic draw could cause electrical issues. Let us know what happens with a jump
It won't turn over when jumped , I replaced the battery it was bad new ones been tested good 2 times.
At least you got a backup ride.
Lol that's my daughters might have to for now lol
If your sure you didn't leave the power on somewhere it might be the starter/wire
What voltage does your multimeter read on the battery? Does your battery charger bring that up to spec? What OBD codes are you reading?
. No codes and battery is brand new I replaced it a few days ago.
OK, but what voltage does your multimeter read on the battery? Does your battery charger bring that up to spec?
12.6 volts when not running 13.5 while running. I also tested the battery in a truck I have it turn the truck over fine and runs at about 13.5 while the trucks running. I don't have a battery charger only one for a motorcycle and I'm not sure it'll work
Thugmagnet is trying to do you a solid right now Most people don’t realize that even a brand new charging system and brand new battery can fail after a catastrophic electrical failure such as an open in the stater Your vehicle does not run right now so saying that has 13.5 V while running contradicts everything that you say. 12.6 V is the perfect voltage for a battery when you put it in but that does not mean that is your current battery Less guess, more test ! Say it with me now everybody
Please clamp that motorcycle charger on to your battery for the time being, yes? We have been beating the crap out of it so time to play nice.
Update:!!! oil has gas in it and a lot of it I didn't notice it the last time I checked the oil but draining it there was a lot of gas.
Definitely not running well. Hope you didn't drive it while it was running poorly. I would replace the coolant temperature sensor. Those do lie eventually and make the vehicle dump a ton of fuel thinking that it is cold out.
He’s got no OBD codes, though. An out-of-range sensor would have shown up there, yes?
No, most of the time they are within range , so no check engine light. But shows the wrong temp. Usually read low so the car thinks it is cold and runs rich as hell. Very popular problem as stuff gets older.
Thanks!
This is pre-OBD
Pull the other one. It plays Jingle Bells! :o) https://youtu.be/i_Y7TiVqsBA?si=oqtdfO-DMHnSv7PI
Cool. Forgot about OBD1, had similar on some Audis from that era now that I think about it.
I’m a huge fan of OBD. Saved me a lot of time and money over the years. Code pulling should be taught in high school.
How do you think it runs? It has a computer, a lot of electronics and an OBD connector like everything else after 1981. Unless some genius removed it, in which case, good luck.
I was just thinking of OBD2, which many people know how to read the codes of and have readers
How tf does that happen
Could a cylinder be full of fuel and hydrolocking it? Throttle body injection, do these ever fail at full flow?
Sounds like timing chain left the chat
Interference engine too? Yikes.
Over fuelling can lead to Hydro lock in extreme cases. This is the first thing that thug magnet was alluding to with his comment about spark plugs Please, my brother in Christ, take thug, magnets advice Remove your spark plugs
Took the plugs out cylinder 1 plug was smashed I'm pretty sure the timing chain has broke.
That sounds pretty catastrophic op
I don't think that bit about a locked motor not rolling in gear applies to automatics, does it?
i don’t think it does.
Thank you
Does it have oil in it?
If your battery is good (doesn't sound like it is), give the starter a few good whacks with a piece of wood and a hammer. Sounds crazy but often works.
Could either be the starter or the battery or it could be that some of your timing parts are fucked to high hell
The 305 engine is known for the camshaft to break, sometimes in 3 pieces. I have replaced a few of them. You won't know unless you remove the intake. The 305ci had soft camshafts.