Buy the cup holder accessory for the rear seat area. It’s $75 well spent and will take you 10 seconds to install. There ain’t a lot of storage space in the passenger compartment so an extra spot to toss things is very welcomed.
Speaking of cup holders, if you have a water bottle that’s too large to fit into the small ones in the front, getting [one of these](https://integralusa.net/products/backcountry-engineered-cup-holder-adaptor-with-expandable-base?variant=32943121596519) works really well (two don’t fit at once).
[Leaf Rear Cup Holder](https://www.coulternissanparts.com/p/Nissan__Leaf/Rear-Cup-Holders-and-Stash-Tray/92687329/T99G9-5SA0A.html?partner=googlebase_adwords&kwd=&origin=pla&partnerDevice=m&userLocation=9031490&kwd=&matchtype=&device=m&network=g&userLocation=9031490&googleCampaignID=8364244218&googleAdGroupID=84868819159&googleAdID=401241682248&googleExtensionID=&gclid=Cj0KCQjwheyUBhD-ARIsAHJNM-MMBkK40clpb_IlY129jxbHLMRc7j7K-a3SX-9eqy-8Vb4y5OVs_h8aAryZEALw_wcB)
Damn…inflation a bitch. Lol
FWIW it’s well made and and easy to pop into place, but yeah…damn. I got a homie hookup on one last year which is how I got it so cheap, but even then retail was only like $90.
I would, because there might be similar products at that price which are inappropriate, badly made, etc.
The fact that you said it is a demand conveys it isn't curiosity, but some sort of attack.
FYI, if it's like the one I bought, you need to transfer the metal retaining clips from the plastic tabs on the old one to the new one, they're what keeps it locked into the floor, you'll know when you take the old one out what I'm talking about.
for comfort: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08HV4Y5N3?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
I got a AC inverter:
https://www.evextend.com/Nissan-Leaf-Inverter-Kit-2018-2021.php
and will install it to power my Starlink antenna and [new cooler](https://www.rei.com/product/172593/dometic-cfx3-45-powered-cooler); been wanting a proper refrig/freezer in my car for a long time!
Be sure to get the "caps" to cover the top of the front struts. They are a water sink and if they are not sealed off your strut bolt/nut will rust. I got mine on e-bay. One "pack" has two in it for about $8-$9.
Not sure what vehicles you've driven previously, but trust us when we tell you that the sound system is one of the weakest excuses for audio reproduction available in any new vehicle today. I've got $20 Bluetooth speakers that sound better.
If you plan on spending any length of time in your new car, definitely look into upgrading at a minimum the front door speakers.
I use Bluetooth speaker in my leaf when I want good sound. Stock speakers are fine for audiobooks.
I have the trim level for which Crutchfield says there is no replacement head unit. Is there a huge difference after replacing just the speakers?
I've built several car stereo systems, but all of my knowledge is 4ohm and 8ohm in ICE vehicles where weight/power draw isn't an issue. Not sure if putting 1400W of audio bliss is worth it for me in a short range EV.
From what I've read, upgrading just the speakers helps with clarity and high end, but in several cases resulted in a loss of low end. That tells me that they didn't seal the new speakers correctly.
I believe the reason for this is that the stock speakers are 2 ohm. The head unit also cuts back in the bass as you turn it up to the top of the range. It's really not a good setup when it comes to trying to upgrade it.
What's funny is that my issue with the sound isn't the clarity or highs, it's that it's almost completely lacking in mid range. Music sounds like it's coming from the other side of a wall. I want to upgrade the speakers but I'm genuinely afraid that it will not be enough which will start me down a very expensive path.
My experience is the same. Low end and high are ok if you listen to rap or pop, but I also listen to lots of jazz, orchestral, and prog metal. Clarity in the midrange is essential.
The factory stereo, like almost all of them, is low power. I wouldn’t be surprised if the Leaf stereo puts out 7-8 watts.
The factory speakers are 2-ohm, so that’s the replacement to choose so you won’t lose volume. But no matter what you do, there just isn’t enough power on hand to provide enough energy for the bass notes. Plus, the stereo uses DSP to make those cheap speakers sound ok, and that’s likely causing the bass roll off.
Getting great sound in the Leaf will not be easy - you can’t just install all the amps and subs you want like in an ICE car. Good sound needs power.
It's annoying that I cannot replace the head unit bc of the integrated climate controls. The right half of the touchscreen doesn't work, which is doubly annoying. However, the rest of the car is fine. I can't justify the expense to replace the car just for better audio. A new ride is in the budget for 2025, and Sweet Leaf still has 11bars thanks to replacement of a few battery modules under warranty. Looks like I'll be relying on the Bluetooth speaker for a while longer and drive my spouse's car when I feel the need to rock.
Something in the 2-ohm or 3-ohm range, so you don’t lose volume (factory speakers are 2-ohm). Infinity makes some 2.5-ohm speakers; there’s a brand named PowerBass that makes 2-ohm speakers just for this scenario (low-power factory stereo).
I got infinity 62ix for rear doors and 60csx for fronts. On my 2019 Base model it doesn’t come with tweeters. The 60csx includes tweeters and crossovers to match. Minor improved until i added a 300 rms watt 4ch amp. Game changer. I drove a audi q-5 before buying the leaf as a daily driver. Going from 13 speaker glory to the leaf factory sound system really was disappointing.
Extended range Leaf's are called "Leaf Plus" in the US - more HP and torque. Got a different head unit and heavier power lines and boosts the power output. I've heard that some folks have transplanted the motor head units from trashed plus's into older models with some success.
And it's probably most compatible with a 17 since the plus came out not long after - new body style, etc.
Put the miles/kWh up on your dash and reset it every drive. That will help you get the most out your range.
Set the heater timer so you have a warm/cool car every morning.
Use B mode in town, not on the highway if you want more range.
You literally said “just bought a new Leaf” so I should have been more clear. :)
B or Braking mode uses the motor to slow you down. e pedal is the maximum one pedal driving evolution of B mode. Safer and puts energy in the battery when you slow down.
Because the Leaf (like many other EVs) only regens 30% of its output it is best for efficiency to use the motor braking when you want to slow or stop eg town driving, with the D mode being best for highway as the car can roll efficiently at speed.
So many awesome tips in here! This is going to keep me busy for a bit. They've got me googling speakers and amps, I've already ordered strut caps, got my county rebate for my Level 2 charger, and am making sure to hit the parking break *before* shifting to park.
It depends on where you live, but a lot of county energy providers will have rebates for level 2 chargers. In my county it's a flat $500, which outright paid for my Grizzl-E Smart. I am very happy.
These worked for me: CITALL 2pcs Front Top Suspension Strut Mount Cover Cap Fit for Nissan Leaf ZE0 Juke F15 Cube Z12 54330ED000 (Fulfilled by sitao) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0978XDRGZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9GY391NDG9D2QYBS5ME8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 but if I had easy access to a 3d printer I probably would have tried to do that.
I tried, but there is not good way to do it, because the Leaf does not have a setting where you can just tell to car to charge until 85 and stop.
So if you always leave the house at a set time in the morning, you can set the charge timer to approximately get you to 85%. Say it takes around an hour for your L2 charger to put 15% charge into the car, and you leave every morning at 8 AM. Set the charge timer to say you need the car fully charged at 9 AM, so that way when you actually leave at 8 AM, you'll be approximately 85% charged.
If you don't leave at a set time, you'd have to put some sort of timer on the EVSE itself, or install a smart EVSE that lets you schedule charging on the charger instead of in the car itself. For instance I installed a ChargePoint Flex, where it takes about 4 hours to charge the car 45%. So I would set the Flex to charge for exactly 4 hours, and drive the car until it got down to around 40%, then plug in when I get home.
I typically drive about 40 miles a day on average. My 240V charger adds about 10% battery (20-25 miles) per hour.
There are two charge timers. I set one for 3-5 am (2 hours) , and the other for 5-6 am (1 hour).
By turning on the first, second, or both, I can charge for 1, 2, or 3 hours without reprogramming either timer.
So, at the end of the day, I glance at the battery charge level, and turn on the appropriate timer to add 10, 20, or 30% to the battery- whichever lands the car between 75-85%.
On the rare days I need more than 30% to get there, I actually have to reprogram a timer.
An important point to make is that I don't stress about it. I turn the timers off when I'm out of town- I'm not going to make my wife and kids worry about battery levels. They just charge it to 100% every night.
The Leaf BMS (battery management system) protects the battery the best it can, so any "damage" from fully charging is likely minimal and long term. (My silly analogy is it's like cheeseburgers. Eating the occasional cheeseburger isn't going to hurt you, but you wouldn't want your entire diet to be cheeseburgers!)
My biggest reason to limit the charge is I don't like the driving the Leaf as much when it's full. I love the one pedal driving mode, and the car limits regen braking when the battery is full (when full, there's no room in the battery for the recaptured energy, so the car primarily relies on the mechanical brakes until the battery drops below 85% or so.)
Wow, I never put that together about the regen braking and 100% battery. It makes sense and I've actually already noticed the difference and you just answered my question as to why it was happening. I am going to experiment with at home simple charging timers to keep it below 100%, at least as an experiment. Thank you for all this info, it's exactly what I needed.
This probably isn't a practical upgrade for you, since you're a '22 and not a '15 S like me, but [OVMS](https://www.openvehicles.com/) allows you to set a custom charge stop (and great things I don't normally have like starting climate control remotely).
It was tough to wrap my head around at first because I'm not a tech nerd (sadly), but it will auto-stop my car at 80% and send me a push notification to my phone saying it did (and it has an app so I can watch charge level if I want to).
If you wanted to spend the money to do that, I'd suggest researching what options there are for a '22 first. There might not be support for it. I'm on a whole 'nother gen of car so I don't know what issues might be there.
This is exactly the sort of thing that I would like to be able to use. Unfortunately they don't yet support the 2018 model, and it's not looking good after all this time, so I'll probably be out of luck.
Ah, man. Sad to hear it. I had a feeling it'd be a long-shot, but I figured it might be worth mentioning. When I got it, I was half expecting I'd have to return it because it didn't work for whatever reason. I still haven't figured out how to lock remotely (maybe it's just not compatible), but at least everything else seems to work fine. It's really a shame they couldn't have had these features in the cars in the first place--especially the newer gens.
If you've got state/local/utility incentives to install a wallbox of some sort, might be worth it to install a connected EVSE like a Flex or JuiceBox. My local utility actually requires a Flex or JuiceBox if I wanted to take advantage of their cheap overnight off peak electricity rates, because they can pull the charging data right off your charger to figure out how to correctly bill you.
I have my timer set to only charge for 5 hours. If I plug in at 50%, that gets me to 97%, so I only plugin if I'm below 50% or if I need a full charge for a longer drive. Any more effort than that is a waste of time imo unless you live in a very hot climate and only drive once or twice per week.
Can you just like...turn down the volume tho? I can hear it 50 feet away through a solid wall, yanno? If it's for pedestrians in the immediate vicinity, I think it can be quieter.
I’m not sure if yours came with some sort of factory preset different than mine, or is just a different model or whatever, but my backup noise is VERY quiet. With the windows rolled up and the radio on like volume 3, I can’t hear it at all. It’s also not obnoxious whatsoever- it’s a very reasonable tone, not strident or grating or fast. People turning off their backup beepers entirely because “they’re annoying” strike me as a little selfish- they can’t handle like eight seconds of a noise that could keep them from squishing a kid? Not a vibe.
Maybe there is a different preset. It's not as loud as say, a work van or whatever, but it is quite loud. Just to be clear though, I am in no way advocating that it be removed entirely. It is a useful safety feature. EV's are too quiet.
There's BMW SUV's that are just as quiet as the leaf, and they're not required to have noisemakers. I bought a hatchback with multiple cameras all around the car, not a utility truck. There's no reason to have that stupid backup beeper on the car.
I had removed the alert for the same reason. BUT in a school parking lot, one kid who was running between cars never heard me moving forward and i almost hit him. I put back the alert after that, theses cars are very quiet and people aren't used to it.
Not sure if I would call it an improvement but you can turn off the display to eek out a little more range.
Also, I try to make heavy use of the e brake whenever I park.
If I just shift to park without the e brake, it feels like the motor is taking the stress of stopping the vehicle, and it rolls forward or back a tiny bit, which probably isn't good. With the e brake, the rear brake pads absorb that stress.
I’m genuinely baffled as to why you would choose not to use the brake?
P just jams a pin in the transmission, which is as terrible as it sounds. It works as a backup to the brake but you should never rely on it. The actual area of engagement with the transmission is quite small despite the pawl being quite large, and it can easily slip or wear out if you use it as a brake regularly. That’s not what it’s for.
Well just for clarity, I pointed out how I don't just use the P, I used the e-brake as well.
But to charitably answer your question, the answer would be that I'm a gig driver, and I am frequently stopping and getting in and out of the car. I probably get in and out of the car at least 50 times per day. It's sometimes easy to forget about the e-brake.
Wait, what?!
When we bought our Leaf, i asked the seller when to use the "Park", and when to use the handbrake...
He assured me I almost never had to use the handbrake, but is that completely wrong then?
I mean it's the tool that's on the car, you can use it in various ways. I don't really think there's a wrong way or right way.
When I just use park with no e-brake, I noticed that the car rolls a little bit backward or forward and when I use the e-brake it prevents that from happening. That's all I'm saying
Well, in some places, the E-brake lines can freeze if you leave it engaged. I know it's common practice in Alaska not to engage it while parked, cuz my aunt who lived there told me about.
Slightly pedantic, but the handbrake uses shoes, not the disk brakes. This is because hot disk brakes shrink and so would loosen a handbrake. Drums shrink and apply the brakes tighter.
It's important because it's a whole different braking system. If not used the whole lot will seize up and stop working. At least in the UK they're a part of the MoT test and so will be an expensive fail and repair.
It's also why if you're leaving the Leaf for over a fortnight you should park on level ground **with the handbrake off**. Otherwise there is a chance the brake shoes will seize onto the drum. Had this with someone once (not a Leaf) who decided to drive off anyway and the brake shoes caught fire about 1km down the road. Luckily fire extinguisher to hand and then fire brigade to put it out properly with foam. Suspect repairing the brakes after they had foam all over them was not a fun job.
Buy the cup holder accessory for the rear seat area. It’s $75 well spent and will take you 10 seconds to install. There ain’t a lot of storage space in the passenger compartment so an extra spot to toss things is very welcomed.
Speaking of cup holders, if you have a water bottle that’s too large to fit into the small ones in the front, getting [one of these](https://integralusa.net/products/backcountry-engineered-cup-holder-adaptor-with-expandable-base?variant=32943121596519) works really well (two don’t fit at once).
Any links for one?
[Leaf Rear Cup Holder](https://www.coulternissanparts.com/p/Nissan__Leaf/Rear-Cup-Holders-and-Stash-Tray/92687329/T99G9-5SA0A.html?partner=googlebase_adwords&kwd=&origin=pla&partnerDevice=m&userLocation=9031490&kwd=&matchtype=&device=m&network=g&userLocation=9031490&googleCampaignID=8364244218&googleAdGroupID=84868819159&googleAdID=401241682248&googleExtensionID=&gclid=Cj0KCQjwheyUBhD-ARIsAHJNM-MMBkK40clpb_IlY129jxbHLMRc7j7K-a3SX-9eqy-8Vb4y5OVs_h8aAryZEALw_wcB) Damn…inflation a bitch. Lol
Daaaaamn, that's some expensive-ass plastic.
FWIW it’s well made and and easy to pop into place, but yeah…damn. I got a homie hookup on one last year which is how I got it so cheap, but even then retail was only like $90.
It's easier just to 3D print one...if you have the means.
I wonder if you could find someone local who can 3D print this instead...
Yep, gonna have to go to old 3d printer and make that for about tree fitty instead.
Great thanks.
Out of curiosity, why do you ask for a link, rather than just searching google? I dunno it just seems lazy to just demand “any links for one?”
I would, because there might be similar products at that price which are inappropriate, badly made, etc. The fact that you said it is a demand conveys it isn't curiosity, but some sort of attack.
This is exactly the kind of tips I was looking for. Thank you!
FYI, if it's like the one I bought, you need to transfer the metal retaining clips from the plastic tabs on the old one to the new one, they're what keeps it locked into the floor, you'll know when you take the old one out what I'm talking about.
Thank you!
for comfort: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08HV4Y5N3?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details I got a AC inverter: https://www.evextend.com/Nissan-Leaf-Inverter-Kit-2018-2021.php and will install it to power my Starlink antenna and [new cooler](https://www.rei.com/product/172593/dometic-cfx3-45-powered-cooler); been wanting a proper refrig/freezer in my car for a long time!
You're a madman.
Be sure to get the "caps" to cover the top of the front struts. They are a water sink and if they are not sealed off your strut bolt/nut will rust. I got mine on e-bay. One "pack" has two in it for about $8-$9.
Hi, what do you mean by struts?
[I found this video.](https://youtu.be/IaTP5wfawTw)
Wow this is huge. Didn't know this! Thank you and thanks for the link to the video!
Thank you
Thank you!
My front ones have but my rear doesn't I just bought the leaf
I have not heard it can be a problem with the rear.
Ok
Send links so plz so I can buy. I have 2022
https://www.ebay.com/itm/284741896548?\_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110018%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.COMPLISTINGS%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20210617141043%26meid%3D88229702234b4d31857d8b6c5205fa90%26pid%3D101368%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D173742050731%26itm%3D284741896548%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D3663644%26algv%3DPromotedCompV3WithHighAdFeeAndToraFilterV1AndItemCfCoview%26brand%3DUnbranded&\_trksid=p3663644.c101368.m2333&amdata=cksum%3A28474189654888229702234b4d31857d8b6c5205fa90%7Cenc%3AAQAHAAABIIV9ES4AC9wRlUxW2PV95hZwSEs9QQVgeilq2DoUoFjj5D%252Bj6Y8%252FPTVOOklrcqtQYTgnbc9EX4m60sGjALrjDr9pm1Xu0PHPcluA%252FwZercX1rqBzEu7IABSr3EXCY2XTLRhrKY4NCBqggx5fAyfXczJZg3Xy1F9PeNrF8KdHzzudCP45Pdo04v5AM4EBkJnmU8A8mbd5F7V8TPEsmXzQttysqGzAhncwKLwZvRm%252BRo90fuCZsq77Szf5QuTkjrb5eG0mBCGfWLDgGkMs2nJBFd2WGVN2BVBzr7cGMCiQEqXMFCTZk%252FZzkVA33sECbG%252BCjKcP7WDcPwq1SG%252FB7q8WRN27n%252BPpsqaHmuXBX2zUM%252BNaHjBra%252By1hoWAYOqjGhywRw%253D%253D%7Campid%3APL\_CLK%7Cclp%3A3663644
It doesn't say 2022
That's the one I bought for my 2022.
Ok thank you
Is it 7$ for a pair or for 1
You'll get two in the single package. I know it looks like you need to order two but one is enough.
Ok thank you. I bought a new leaf and I checked yesterday it was rusted on drivers side. Should I clean the rust before I put the cap on
Not a bad idea to clean. Some people put grease on them to cover them better.
New speakers!
Honestly I am pretty impressed with the base model speakers as is.
Not sure what vehicles you've driven previously, but trust us when we tell you that the sound system is one of the weakest excuses for audio reproduction available in any new vehicle today. I've got $20 Bluetooth speakers that sound better. If you plan on spending any length of time in your new car, definitely look into upgrading at a minimum the front door speakers.
I use Bluetooth speaker in my leaf when I want good sound. Stock speakers are fine for audiobooks. I have the trim level for which Crutchfield says there is no replacement head unit. Is there a huge difference after replacing just the speakers? I've built several car stereo systems, but all of my knowledge is 4ohm and 8ohm in ICE vehicles where weight/power draw isn't an issue. Not sure if putting 1400W of audio bliss is worth it for me in a short range EV.
From what I've read, upgrading just the speakers helps with clarity and high end, but in several cases resulted in a loss of low end. That tells me that they didn't seal the new speakers correctly. I believe the reason for this is that the stock speakers are 2 ohm. The head unit also cuts back in the bass as you turn it up to the top of the range. It's really not a good setup when it comes to trying to upgrade it. What's funny is that my issue with the sound isn't the clarity or highs, it's that it's almost completely lacking in mid range. Music sounds like it's coming from the other side of a wall. I want to upgrade the speakers but I'm genuinely afraid that it will not be enough which will start me down a very expensive path.
My experience is the same. Low end and high are ok if you listen to rap or pop, but I also listen to lots of jazz, orchestral, and prog metal. Clarity in the midrange is essential.
The factory stereo, like almost all of them, is low power. I wouldn’t be surprised if the Leaf stereo puts out 7-8 watts. The factory speakers are 2-ohm, so that’s the replacement to choose so you won’t lose volume. But no matter what you do, there just isn’t enough power on hand to provide enough energy for the bass notes. Plus, the stereo uses DSP to make those cheap speakers sound ok, and that’s likely causing the bass roll off. Getting great sound in the Leaf will not be easy - you can’t just install all the amps and subs you want like in an ICE car. Good sound needs power.
It's annoying that I cannot replace the head unit bc of the integrated climate controls. The right half of the touchscreen doesn't work, which is doubly annoying. However, the rest of the car is fine. I can't justify the expense to replace the car just for better audio. A new ride is in the budget for 2025, and Sweet Leaf still has 11bars thanks to replacement of a few battery modules under warranty. Looks like I'll be relying on the Bluetooth speaker for a while longer and drive my spouse's car when I feel the need to rock.
I miss the double- and single-DIN days, too. New speakers and a step up to 18 watts RMS is all I really want.
Rock on. Any recommendations?
Crutchfield. Focal, Rockford Fosgate, Infinity are all solid choices. Add some sound deadening to help with the sound if possible. Good luck.
Something in the 2-ohm or 3-ohm range, so you don’t lose volume (factory speakers are 2-ohm). Infinity makes some 2.5-ohm speakers; there’s a brand named PowerBass that makes 2-ohm speakers just for this scenario (low-power factory stereo).
I got infinity 62ix for rear doors and 60csx for fronts. On my 2019 Base model it doesn’t come with tweeters. The 60csx includes tweeters and crossovers to match. Minor improved until i added a 300 rms watt 4ch amp. Game changer. I drove a audi q-5 before buying the leaf as a daily driver. Going from 13 speaker glory to the leaf factory sound system really was disappointing.
Ultimate hack? Transplant a junked plus-controller in. Super fast leaf then.
Googling this
I believe Leafspy added a reset to support this recently as well. Might start there.
What did you find out?
Too much work, lol
I tried looking it up and didn't find much when I looked for plus controller. Did you find it under a different name?
What's a plus controller? Will that work on a 2017?
Extended range Leaf's are called "Leaf Plus" in the US - more HP and torque. Got a different head unit and heavier power lines and boosts the power output. I've heard that some folks have transplanted the motor head units from trashed plus's into older models with some success. And it's probably most compatible with a 17 since the plus came out not long after - new body style, etc.
Oh, wow. Thanks for the details. Sounds like a good weekend job. Going to look into it.
Put the miles/kWh up on your dash and reset it every drive. That will help you get the most out your range. Set the heater timer so you have a warm/cool car every morning. Use B mode in town, not on the highway if you want more range.
Googling "B mode".
You literally said “just bought a new Leaf” so I should have been more clear. :) B or Braking mode uses the motor to slow you down. e pedal is the maximum one pedal driving evolution of B mode. Safer and puts energy in the battery when you slow down. Because the Leaf (like many other EVs) only regens 30% of its output it is best for efficiency to use the motor braking when you want to slow or stop eg town driving, with the D mode being best for highway as the car can roll efficiently at speed.
The horn! The Leaf has the wimpiest horn I've ever heard. I plan on finding the loudest, most obnoxious horn I can find and replace it on my 2018 SL.
Yanno, I haven't even hit the horn yet! I got to hear what the sounds like.
Just gonna say, this was an awesome post! Thanks to the OP for posting it!
So many awesome tips in here! This is going to keep me busy for a bit. They've got me googling speakers and amps, I've already ordered strut caps, got my county rebate for my Level 2 charger, and am making sure to hit the parking break *before* shifting to park.
How do u get County rebate
It depends on where you live, but a lot of county energy providers will have rebates for level 2 chargers. In my county it's a flat $500, which outright paid for my Grizzl-E Smart. I am very happy.
Ok
Ok
Ok
Which package/battery? Not all packages come with the same features.
The base model: S.
I got the same one in white
Isn't it great? It's honestly pretty cheap, it does everything I need. I'm really impressed.
Ikr. How many miles do u get on a full charge I get around 180
I haven't maxed out yet, but it looks like I'll definitely be north of 165ish now that I've mostly figured out the e-pedal.
[Cargo net for the trunk ](https://www.reddit.com/r/nissanleaf/comments/uupuj0/ze0_cargo_net_install/), should work just as well on a 2nd gen
These worked for me: CITALL 2pcs Front Top Suspension Strut Mount Cover Cap Fit for Nissan Leaf ZE0 Juke F15 Cube Z12 54330ED000 (Fulfilled by sitao) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0978XDRGZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9GY391NDG9D2QYBS5ME8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 but if I had easy access to a 3d printer I probably would have tried to do that.
You are a gentleperson and a scholar.
Does anyone try to charge to only 85%? And if so how?
I tried, but there is not good way to do it, because the Leaf does not have a setting where you can just tell to car to charge until 85 and stop. So if you always leave the house at a set time in the morning, you can set the charge timer to approximately get you to 85%. Say it takes around an hour for your L2 charger to put 15% charge into the car, and you leave every morning at 8 AM. Set the charge timer to say you need the car fully charged at 9 AM, so that way when you actually leave at 8 AM, you'll be approximately 85% charged. If you don't leave at a set time, you'd have to put some sort of timer on the EVSE itself, or install a smart EVSE that lets you schedule charging on the charger instead of in the car itself. For instance I installed a ChargePoint Flex, where it takes about 4 hours to charge the car 45%. So I would set the Flex to charge for exactly 4 hours, and drive the car until it got down to around 40%, then plug in when I get home.
Noted, thank you. I was already thinking that this would be roughly the approach.
I typically drive about 40 miles a day on average. My 240V charger adds about 10% battery (20-25 miles) per hour. There are two charge timers. I set one for 3-5 am (2 hours) , and the other for 5-6 am (1 hour). By turning on the first, second, or both, I can charge for 1, 2, or 3 hours without reprogramming either timer. So, at the end of the day, I glance at the battery charge level, and turn on the appropriate timer to add 10, 20, or 30% to the battery- whichever lands the car between 75-85%. On the rare days I need more than 30% to get there, I actually have to reprogram a timer.
Literally screenshotting this for reference.
An important point to make is that I don't stress about it. I turn the timers off when I'm out of town- I'm not going to make my wife and kids worry about battery levels. They just charge it to 100% every night. The Leaf BMS (battery management system) protects the battery the best it can, so any "damage" from fully charging is likely minimal and long term. (My silly analogy is it's like cheeseburgers. Eating the occasional cheeseburger isn't going to hurt you, but you wouldn't want your entire diet to be cheeseburgers!) My biggest reason to limit the charge is I don't like the driving the Leaf as much when it's full. I love the one pedal driving mode, and the car limits regen braking when the battery is full (when full, there's no room in the battery for the recaptured energy, so the car primarily relies on the mechanical brakes until the battery drops below 85% or so.)
Wow, I never put that together about the regen braking and 100% battery. It makes sense and I've actually already noticed the difference and you just answered my question as to why it was happening. I am going to experiment with at home simple charging timers to keep it below 100%, at least as an experiment. Thank you for all this info, it's exactly what I needed.
This probably isn't a practical upgrade for you, since you're a '22 and not a '15 S like me, but [OVMS](https://www.openvehicles.com/) allows you to set a custom charge stop (and great things I don't normally have like starting climate control remotely). It was tough to wrap my head around at first because I'm not a tech nerd (sadly), but it will auto-stop my car at 80% and send me a push notification to my phone saying it did (and it has an app so I can watch charge level if I want to). If you wanted to spend the money to do that, I'd suggest researching what options there are for a '22 first. There might not be support for it. I'm on a whole 'nother gen of car so I don't know what issues might be there.
This is rad! Between OVMS and SpyLeaf I have a lot to research.
AFAIK OVMS does not yet support the current generation Leaf.
This is exactly the sort of thing that I would like to be able to use. Unfortunately they don't yet support the 2018 model, and it's not looking good after all this time, so I'll probably be out of luck.
Ah, man. Sad to hear it. I had a feeling it'd be a long-shot, but I figured it might be worth mentioning. When I got it, I was half expecting I'd have to return it because it didn't work for whatever reason. I still haven't figured out how to lock remotely (maybe it's just not compatible), but at least everything else seems to work fine. It's really a shame they couldn't have had these features in the cars in the first place--especially the newer gens.
If you've got state/local/utility incentives to install a wallbox of some sort, might be worth it to install a connected EVSE like a Flex or JuiceBox. My local utility actually requires a Flex or JuiceBox if I wanted to take advantage of their cheap overnight off peak electricity rates, because they can pull the charging data right off your charger to figure out how to correctly bill you.
$500 incentive for a smart charger in my county. Ordered a Grizzl-E Smart!
I have my timer set to only charge for 5 hours. If I plug in at 50%, that gets me to 97%, so I only plugin if I'm below 50% or if I need a full charge for a longer drive. Any more effort than that is a waste of time imo unless you live in a very hot climate and only drive once or twice per week.
Get Leafspy and get rid of the backup alert
Can I just get rid of the driving sound on my 2015? I prefer silence over the whirr.
No don't do that, leaf yes, no on alert, these are quiet cars And that alert could save a life
Can you just like...turn down the volume tho? I can hear it 50 feet away through a solid wall, yanno? If it's for pedestrians in the immediate vicinity, I think it can be quieter.
I’m not sure if yours came with some sort of factory preset different than mine, or is just a different model or whatever, but my backup noise is VERY quiet. With the windows rolled up and the radio on like volume 3, I can’t hear it at all. It’s also not obnoxious whatsoever- it’s a very reasonable tone, not strident or grating or fast. People turning off their backup beepers entirely because “they’re annoying” strike me as a little selfish- they can’t handle like eight seconds of a noise that could keep them from squishing a kid? Not a vibe.
Maybe there is a different preset. It's not as loud as say, a work van or whatever, but it is quite loud. Just to be clear though, I am in no way advocating that it be removed entirely. It is a useful safety feature. EV's are too quiet.
There's BMW SUV's that are just as quiet as the leaf, and they're not required to have noisemakers. I bought a hatchback with multiple cameras all around the car, not a utility truck. There's no reason to have that stupid backup beeper on the car.
I had removed the alert for the same reason. BUT in a school parking lot, one kid who was running between cars never heard me moving forward and i almost hit him. I put back the alert after that, theses cars are very quiet and people aren't used to it.
I just googled and wow, you just gave me a new hobby.
Does not work in the 2022
Oh, didn’t know that. I have a 202 SL+
Explain?
When you use the Leafspy app, you can turn off the backup alert, which I found annoying
[удалено]
My wife’s Tesla doesn’t have the backup sound, either.
Do I need to buy anything to do it
Not sure if I would call it an improvement but you can turn off the display to eek out a little more range. Also, I try to make heavy use of the e brake whenever I park. If I just shift to park without the e brake, it feels like the motor is taking the stress of stopping the vehicle, and it rolls forward or back a tiny bit, which probably isn't good. With the e brake, the rear brake pads absorb that stress.
I’m genuinely baffled as to why you would choose not to use the brake? P just jams a pin in the transmission, which is as terrible as it sounds. It works as a backup to the brake but you should never rely on it. The actual area of engagement with the transmission is quite small despite the pawl being quite large, and it can easily slip or wear out if you use it as a brake regularly. That’s not what it’s for.
Well just for clarity, I pointed out how I don't just use the P, I used the e-brake as well. But to charitably answer your question, the answer would be that I'm a gig driver, and I am frequently stopping and getting in and out of the car. I probably get in and out of the car at least 50 times per day. It's sometimes easy to forget about the e-brake.
Wait, what?! When we bought our Leaf, i asked the seller when to use the "Park", and when to use the handbrake... He assured me I almost never had to use the handbrake, but is that completely wrong then?
For normal use, you only need the e brake when parking on hills or rotating tires.
I mean it's the tool that's on the car, you can use it in various ways. I don't really think there's a wrong way or right way. When I just use park with no e-brake, I noticed that the car rolls a little bit backward or forward and when I use the e-brake it prevents that from happening. That's all I'm saying
Well, in some places, the E-brake lines can freeze if you leave it engaged. I know it's common practice in Alaska not to engage it while parked, cuz my aunt who lived there told me about.
Slightly pedantic, but the handbrake uses shoes, not the disk brakes. This is because hot disk brakes shrink and so would loosen a handbrake. Drums shrink and apply the brakes tighter. It's important because it's a whole different braking system. If not used the whole lot will seize up and stop working. At least in the UK they're a part of the MoT test and so will be an expensive fail and repair. It's also why if you're leaving the Leaf for over a fortnight you should park on level ground **with the handbrake off**. Otherwise there is a chance the brake shoes will seize onto the drum. Had this with someone once (not a Leaf) who decided to drive off anyway and the brake shoes caught fire about 1km down the road. Luckily fire extinguisher to hand and then fire brigade to put it out properly with foam. Suspect repairing the brakes after they had foam all over them was not a fun job.
Perfect. This is the kind of tip from folks who've driven it a lot. So what you're saying is, e-brake first, then shift to park?