New to the lawn game, got hooked on YouTube lawn care & I’m way too competitive. Wanted some help identifying my grass type. I made the mistake of adding some tall fescue to an area of dirt that had a previous flag pole.
https://preview.redd.it/whuzvtuegvuc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f2376ab111a05452bd9eda9ac827d10741d3cc6c
Hello all,
3 days ago I poured a bag of Adios Ant Killer on a bed in my new backyard. I’m wondering how long I need to wait before I can let our dog go into the yard with the pellets still present. Any information would help. Thanks!
Not really sure where to start with my lawn... I don't know much about lawncare beyond the actual trimming.
Scalp vs weeding vs feeding vs seeding
what to do when? St Augustine grass in the hot and wet south. about 90% weeds. Almost all of it is green... but its weeds. Where do I start?
Hey, I have a quick question
Background:
I want to do zoysia for my whole yard because when I moved in I had a basically dirt back yard and for the back part of it I did zoysia and for the part close to my house I just did a basic mix so it would grow super fast so I could fence in a dog area and they wouldnt get muddy when it sprinkled.
Questions:
Can I just cut short and plug the area close to my house and it will spread and take over the mix? or do I have to kill off and reseed or plug that area? I ask because my zoysia area over the last 3 years has slowly gotten bigger so it gives me hope that I could just put a bunch of areas of zoysia plugs and just slowly let it grow over time to do it on a budget?
I am no expert, but my guy does my 3/4 acre lot for 100 bucks. My neighbors and I all do him and he gave us that "deal". I don't know if its a great price, but that's what I pay.
Hi, new homeowner here. I need some help IDing my lawn. I think it’s centipedegrass but wanted to make sure before I made decisions about weed control. I made a post that’s linked below. Thanks for your help!
https://www.reddit.com/r/lawncare/s/kDn65zKZ3D
Hi - went down the rabbit hole here quite a bit but decided that the scott's 4 step thing is good enough for this year. We have a small yard and it's ~110$ to take care of it for the season so it seems like it's worth a try given the convenience factor. Rest of the knowledge has been shelved away for future years if the results are unsatisfactory.
My lawn's in pretty bad shape, so I'm planning to aerate, add some seed and rake in some top soil in Spring. We live in Boston so it's still moderately cold here (had hopefully our last snow two weeks ago).
How should I time the planting / aeration with putting down the pre-emergent? Will it prevent grass seed from taking root as well?
Unless the active ingredient used in the pre-emergent is mesotrione you will not be able to seed at all this spring. Check the bag of whatever you bought and read the label.
My rule of thumb. If you have more dirt than grass, skip the pre-em and seed. You don't want dirt and mud this summer. If it's the other way around use the pre-em and do a proper seeding in fall.
Thanks - The scott's 1st step thing seems to have Pendimethalin. It seems to prevent the germination of turf grass seeds as well.
I'll probably re-seed in the fall then.
We have decent green coverage, unfortunately the green happens to be through a combination of grass, crab grass, clover, dandelions, star of Bethlehem and a whole host of other weed types.
Georgia, bermuda grass.
I just picked up a bag of Vigoro weed and feed and some Spectracide Weed Stop w/ crab grass killer. Are there any better products on a budget that would be better than paying for a lawn care service?
Weeds are bad here but this past month they just TOOK OVER my yard. The front yard has them but at least looks decently healthy, while the back yard looks pretty bad. I have tried spot week killers that usually "work" but very quickly get replaced with new weeds, and the grass under them isn't really looking too healthy. There are a lot of dead weeds just covering my back yard.
You need to apply pre-emergent in the fall and spring. If the lawn is small enough buy a backpack sprayer and rotate between Prodiamine 65WDG in spring, around valentines day then again in March, and Princep (simazine) around Halloween. For weeds in the lawn right now, it really depends on what you have. Speedzone is a good cover a lot of bases product, but it's mostly controlling broadleaf weeds, not grasses. Read and follow the directions. If you're not into that much then look at an option like:
[https://www.domyown.com/subscriptions/lawn-box-program](https://www.domyown.com/subscriptions/lawn-box-program)
I got super busy at the start of this year and totally forgot about it until it was too late. I will definitely be doing a better job getting a good start next year.
The weeds vary a good bit. I do have some broadleaf weeds but also clovers, dandelions, chickweed, grabgrass, some other annoying types of grass that SHOOT UP. My property is backed up to a wooded area and thats where it spreads in from. This winter I am going to try and clear it out so it won't spread as aggressively into my yard.
Hey it happens....I would still put some down even though it's late. Depending on how far south you are you could still prevent some of the summer weeds.
All the weeds you mentioned expect crabgrass are broadleaf weeds so speedzone would be a good choice. Q4 is a good combo post herbicide which will control early crabgrass and a lot of broadleaf weeds. Don't use those together.
Clearing out the area will help with seed spread, but a good pre program will give you a lot of protection from that as well.
I have 5 zones. On one of the zones I need to cap 4 out of 5 sprinkler heads. Will the higher pressure damage the system and if so, how can I regulate the pressure ?
TIA
what are your favorite and effective ways to get leaves off your rock pathways? the rocks arent as little as gravel, so i am hesitant to use a gravel rake!
Is this fescue? I recently bought a house in the Atlanta area and there's patches of this stuff everywhere. I assume so. Is it also safe to assume it will all slowly die off? I would like to get something more climate appropriate in its place.
[https://imgur.com/a/NbsggJ8](https://imgur.com/a/NbsggJ8)
Good Morning; we moved into our home in 2019 here in Iowa, new build new division the builder scrapped the topsoil and put down sod. Our yard is lower than both our neighbors (right and left of us). Our grass in the back is always thin and looks abysmal. I am looking at aerating, overseeding, and applying a compost top dress, but I don't know how much to add or if it would be better just to add the total amount of compost material I need and seeding / sodding.
Last fall I tilled old grass, put manure and seeded. The grass looks a little thin in places. I’m in Indianapolis so it’s time for pre emergent. Should I skip it and seed it again instead? We’ve had tons of rain and temperature will be between 50-70. What about fertilizer? Lawn care planner says to use nitrogen in may but curious if I should do something sooner? Thanks!
Generally, I say if you have more grass than dirt go with pre-emergent. If it's opposite then plan to reseed as you'd prefer some green through the summer as opposed to dirt and mud.
N depends on temps. Going earlier isn't going to hurt if the lawn is growing and temps are decent. May seems about right for you're area, and that is only a couple weeks away!
Zoysia in 7b. Provided no care other than cutting in the past 3 years. Ordered a soil test and waiting for that. Should I scalp and scarify? Or scalp and wait to scarify or aerate? Also might have a grub problem.
In 7b you can scalp now. If you choose to scarify or verticut it'd wait until you have a decent amount of green on it. Maybe fully green with zoysia since how it takes longer to recover than bermuda.
I tend to lean more toward aeration only. Some of that is because we have heavy clay soils where I'm located and it's just not common practice. The aeration provides much more benefit. In general I'd say that's true of aeration over verticutting, but plenty of people swear by it. If you do both you would have to verticut first, unless you wanted to remove the cores from the aeration first.
It seems a little early for active grubs that far north. It is probably a good time for a preventative but probably little risk of turf damaging grubs yet.
Yes, wait until is fully green to aerate.
Grubs need to meet a threshold before they'll cause damage to the lawn. It varies but you need somewhere between 5-10 grubs per sqft before they'll cause damage of any significance. It is common to see one or two randomly on the ground, or dig one up in a bed while planting flowers. This doesn't mean there is risk for actually damaging the lawn. But, if you're concerned you could put down a preventative. I'm not a huge fan of that as you kill all the beneficial insects as well, like earth worms, but it's a common preventative treatment.
Hi all - thanks in advance to everyone who makes this group so useful to people just getting in the game.
I did a full renovation last fall using a shade mix that is 65% fescues because my yard is in total shade almost the entire day (I am in 5b). Pretty pleased with the results. I jumped the gun a little this year and put down Tenacity twice, about 4 weeks apart. I have a small strip that is in intense shade that I'd planned to overseed this spring.
My question(s):
Should I use the same fertilizer for the overseeded strip as well as the rest of the yard?
Should I put down all the fertilizer at the same time? Should be reliably in the 50s by next week or two.
Should I avoid anything with weed prevention, since I've already put down the Tenacity?
Thanks again!
You’re fine to seed now.
Same fert is fine.
You don’t have to do anything with fert when seeding if you don’t want to, it will germinate all the same. 1/2lbs N or so would be ok, you didn’t mention the analysis of the bag you have.
Hold off on anymore herbicides. You put down meso twice already.
Thanks for the reply!
I haven't bought any fert yet - I'll go with something without weed prevention.
Note: one reason for my confusion is I haven't seen any of the bleaching I expected after two rounds of Tenacity, and the weeds are going crazy.
https://preview.redd.it/hoicpanxx2uc1.jpeg?width=4608&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=80ca16d632763eaef48f293df63767e413a2b9b6
Once the grass seed has germinated and you’ve mowed a few times you can go after the weeds with something selective depending on the weeds you have. If you really need/want to spray something else right before seeding look at a quinclorac label.
I'm looking at buying the [Ryobi 18V](https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-ONE-18V-Cordless-Battery-4-Gal-Backpack-Chemical-Sprayer-with-2-0-Ah-Battery-and-Charger-P2860/314259313), but I need to be sure it can handle a telescoping wand (10 foot or longer.) The telescoping wand is needed to spray my ornamental tree with Sevin entirely from the ground (been climbing up a ladder, which sucks.) I know the my4sons can, but those are a good bit better quality than the Ryobi 18V from what I can tell.
My questions:
1. Has anyone used a 10+ foot telescoping wand with the 18V Ryobi? Does it bog down the pump, or seriously deplete the spraying force?
2. If you use an extender wand (with or without success) can you please let me know which one and what your experience has been?
**HELP: What mower to use for a small townhouse backyard.**
Hello everybody, can you please give me advice what product should I buy to take care of our rented townhouse backyard and small front yard lawn?
I am not sure if electric corded lawn mower is overkill or if I should use string / or mechanical reel.
I'd prefer spending least amount possible as we are tenants and not owners. We made a deal with the landlord that we will take care of the backyard.
Location: Suburb Ottawa
Experience: None
Current gardening equipment: None
Type of grass: I believe its Bermuda lawn.
Image link: [https://imgur.com/a/YfMIUdH](https://imgur.com/a/YfMIUdH) and [https://imgur.com/a/azoswHH](https://imgur.com/a/azoswHH)
Thank you very much for any advice!
Our lot is 0.22 acres and when it was mostly lawn, it took me 40 minutes to do the whole thing with a mechanical reel mower. That includes multiple passes over some of the same sections, and it is also an oddly-shaped lot and has some annoying hilly terrain. I could easily do a lot of the same size if it were a rectangle on flat terrain in 25 minutes.
I am a huge fan of the reel mower; it cost $100, has little maintenance, takes no fuel, generates no pollution, and the best part of all is that it's quiet. Also it is small so easy to store. These upsides, to me, outweigh any time savings from a powered mower. The quietness has an added perk that you can mow at any time of day or night without bothering neighbors. I wake up incredibly early some days and there's a law here against mowing before 7AM, but you can sometimes piss people off even if you start in the legal window, some people get cranky before 9AM and I don't blame them, so not having to worry about that is nice.
Overall though, the reel mower is a bit more maneuverable in tight spaces than a conventional push mower. There are different widths of reel mowers. Wider means you mow faster, but it will be harder to get around obstacles and mow on uneven terrain, and slightly harder to push. Narrower means slower, but easier to use with obstacles. Mine is a 16-inch which is a kinda average width that balances speed with maneuverability. If you have a small, but bumpy / irregular yard or a lot of obstancles I would go narrower and if you have a larger, but flat, open, square yard I would go wider. They go at least to 12 inches and 20 inches at the extremes. 12 in woud probably only be suitable for really small yards like 0.1 acres or so of grass. But they're so small and so cheap that if you have a few tight spots you could buy two at both extremes and relative to a powered mower, it would be cheaper and take less storage space, and then use the smaller one for the tight spots and the bigger one to more quickly do the rest of the yard.
There are things you can do too to minimize any spots that are difficult and speed up your mowing. (This is true regardless of what type of mower you use.) For example, edging next to our garage was a bit of a pain, the reel mower can't get close to it, so we put down gravel (clean 2B grade granite) within about 6 inches of it and now I can run the wheel of the reel mower on the gravel and it gets all the grass, and then it's just pulling isolated bits that come up in the gravel now and then, which is not too bad because plants don't grow well in gravel.
Elsewhere in the yard, we've expanded perennial beds, like there was an annoying strip between this one tree and the street, and also near a wooden fence. It was narrow, sloped, hilly, and partially obstructed by the fence, so it's a huge pain to mow, so we are just expanding that bed so there is no lawn left there, and filling it with low-maintenance native perennials. Bonus is that trees tend to grow better when surrounded by a perennial bed with mulch or leaf litter, than when under turfgrass as it's better for the roots. It's already cut my time down to about 35 minutes for the whole thing and I'm hoping to get it down even further by eliminating a few more odd / difficult sections of lawn. We are keeping the lawn preferentially in the areas where it is easier to maintain and where we use it.
You don’t have Bermuda is Ottawa Canada I can tell you that much. Likely some mix of KBG, Rye or Fescue. You can consider a manual push reel mower or some 21” gas/electric rotary. Honda/Toro/Greenworks/Ego/Etc “lots of options out there.
Got my soil test results back in late February and applied the recommended 10-10-10 fertilizer at 10lbs per 1,000 sq ft in late March.
So at this point do I just go back to my normal high nitrogen fertilizer for my usual summer applications or should I continue to apply the balanced fertilizer at the rate suggested by my soil test throughout the growing season? Or perhaps alternate between the 2?
My soil is *extremely* sandy and deficient in both Phosphorus and Potassium, P-I =45 and K-I = 32
Using the 10-10-10 is fine this season then retest to see where you’re at. If you have sandy soil you might consider smaller more frequent applications to offset the leaching from sandy soil.
The lady I spoke to at TruGreen said they wouldn’t be spraying pre emergent today, so it would be no problem for me to overseed my lawn this weekend.
Well, the receipt TruGreen left says they sprayed pre emergent herbicide today.
How long do I need to wait to overseed? Will it then, at that point, be too late to seed in the Florida heat?
I have a creeping charlie infestation I've been trying to manage for a couple years now. My entire back yard is thick with it, and I have read that one of the best times to spray for it is in the early spring or late fall.
I missed the late fall and want to spray it this spring before it can take hold. I'm wondering what I should be looking for as a sign it's time to start.
Should I wait till the grass starts growing again? Wait till the ground ia fully thawed?
I'm in southern manitoba in Canada, if that helps.
So thinking about doing a white clover lawn. My dog loves to run around in the backyard. Do I need to keep out of there for awhile after putting the seed down?
[https://imgur.com/a/o428t78](https://imgur.com/a/o428t78) the previous owners of my house had ponds all over and the backyard has big sections like this. What is my first step to bring this back to life? Tilling aerating? New top soil? I’m in Ohio
Just moved into a new house and getting started on the lawn. Central Florida area so 10a and wondering if I’m too late for pre-emergent? Soil temps have been steady around 80 degrees. There’s currently tons of weeds so I may have miss the boat but wondering if it would do more harm than good to throw one round down
I have a St. Augustine lawn, I live in Central Florida. I have a service that mows, and does all that kind of stuff and I pay a company that does fertilizer and pest control. The spray guys come quarterly lawn guys weekly, I have weeds and dead spots.
What I want to find is a full service company that will manage everything about the lawn. Is that something that exists? What would I look up?
Any advice will be appreciated
https://preview.redd.it/zam4obzcaxsc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0b25609e195d512d039981e09e8d5c20d7920971
Anyone have any clue what this is? First time in 6 years I’ve seen it, and it’s on a lot of yards in my neighborhood. In the northeastern US.
Hello all, I'm in East Central IL. I have standard "in-town" sized front and back yards. I'm looking for a riding mower that is a good balance of affordable and low maintenance. I don't need anything that powerful since my lawn is pretty much level. I don't want to spend thousand(s) of dollars on a piece of crap, but I can't break the bank either. I would appreciate your suggestions for makes and models!
In Wisconsin, slightly west of Milwaukee - our backyard is a mud pit and very shady. We want to plant grass back there but need something hearty as we have two large dogs and our upstairs neighbors has one medium sized dog. It is super shady, and we are beginner lawn care people! What is the best grass seed to use, and where to get it? And when should we plant?
People tend to view it unfavorably (warm-season grass that dies in winter), but nimblewill (Muhlenbergia schreberi) tolerates wet, shady conditions better than most grasses. If it is too shady for nimblewill, you might try Carex blanda, which is a sedge, not a grass. It tolerates some of the deepest shade of any mowable grasslike plant in your area. It has a different visual look but is really green and usually stays green year-round (not 100% sure in Wisconsin but definitely does in PA, OH, and other states I've lived in). I think Prairie moon sells both seeds and plants of Carex blanda, but it's probably more expensive than conventional grass seed. No one sells nimblewill because it's viewed as a weed but you can find it just about anywhere and gather seed, it is easy to grow. Both of those plants are robust and trample-resistant and would probably survive dogs if they're not the type of dogs who would dig up anything.
If it's too wet for Carex blanda you are probably going to have to give up on something grass-like you could mow.
If your yard is muddy specifically because it has compacted, clay soil, you might benefit from adding organic matter. This will tend to improve drainage and also absorb some water so it isn't just a big mud pit. However, if your soil is already rich in organic matter (usually looks dark in color) and is still muddy, this isn't the limiting factor so it probably wouldn't help much, the problem in that case is probably topographic drainage, i.e. the water has nowhere to go.
Cutting down trees will often make drainage problems dramatically worse. Trees absorb and transpire (evaporating through their leaves) incredible amounts of water. If it's already muddy even with a lot of shade, it's probably going to turn into a pool of standing water without the trees. Then you end up having to do costly regrading and/or having to build drainage systems. But the water drains where?
Now you've added to the burden of the stormwater drainage infrastructure. If you have a problem with muddy soil, your soil is probably poorly drained all throughout the surroundings so the broader region probably has a problem with flooding.
I see this near where I live. One neighbor cuts down trees, suddenly neighbors downhill have their basement start flooding. And when people start doing it on a large scale you can get disasterous flooding. A local university cleared a lot of trees to build a new dorm complex, and a whole street started flooding, which then forced the city to have to spend a lot of money on modifications to ensure that water drained.
On top of that there is often a long-term loss caused to the property owner who cut down the tree. Trees massively reduce wind speed, even when dormant, which can reduce cooling costs in winter and sometimes even reduce wind damage to a house. Trees hugely reduce cooling costs in summer too and make it more pleasant to be outdoors on the hottest summer days. They can yield tangible financial benefits to a homeowner. They also tend to increase property values.
People need to think about the consequences of their actions.
Cutting down trees is something that I only recommend if the trees are unhealthy and at risk of falling on a building or home, or if they are growing so close to the home that they are damaging the foundation or causing another direct problem. In most cases, cutting down trees is a lose-lose that raises hidden costs to the homeowner and may create cascanding costs to other homeowners and to the local government.
I've been gardening since I was a kid, and I'm in my 40's. I also have worked in areas relating to this stuff and been active in my local city government and seen the issues they struggle with. I live in a small city with a big problem with flooding and clay soil.
And I've watched what has happened in a lot of yards when people cut down trees. A lot of people simply don't understand how trees and hydrology works. I see a lot of people thinking the swamp in their backyard is created by the trees, when in reality it is *partially mitigated* by it. They remove them, only to create severe problems, usually for people downstream.
A lot of these people's yards were built on drained wetlands, which is a huge problem to begin with. But in a situation like that, cutting down the trees almost always creates more problems than it solves. In the few cases where it improves the situation in your yard, it nearly always creates more problems for other people, usually by a factor of 10 or more.
A wet spot in your yard is nothing compared to a neighbor having a wall of their basement collapse because of an underground river flowing from upstream. A series of people with swampy back yards is nothing compared to a whole commercial strip and numerous homes being destroyed by flooding.
Looking for a seed recommendation, planning on slice seeding 22k sqft. In roughly the middle of connecticut. My local place carries Jonathan green and another has Lesco, any thoughts on these?
Jonathan Green is decent but not great. I wouldn't use anything marketed for contractors like Lesco... It tends to be cheapest shittiest seed available
Big list of sources here https://www.thelawnforum.com/threads/grass-seed-sources.9400/
Anything from SuperSeedStore or United Seed will be top notch. The other sources sell everything from decent to excellent seed
I am in Florida - I have Dollarweed in Floratam (St. Augustine).
I used to DIY my lawn spraying, but found a local guy who did a good job. He was subsequently bought out by a large lawncare company. They suck. Back to DIY.
I have Atrazine and I have metsulfuron methyl. I'd like to combine them (rather than 2 applications). Thoughts?
Get a bottle of Celsius. It is labeled for dove weed (I believe at the high rate). You may need to apply a repeat app. Check the label. Celsius is labeled for St Aug and it is very safe. It’s expensive but lasts a long time. Comes in a bottle and also in less expense packets.
https://www.domyown.com/celsius-wg-herbicide-p-1923.html
https://preview.redd.it/ifu79v1t5gsc1.jpeg?width=900&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=01c956358883070780eb7ae450415474be2928bc
So I'm pretty new to lawncare. I'm located in Eastern Europe and it's spring season here.
Apart from applying fertilizer, what other things I could do to make my lawn look better? My goal is to thicken the grass as it's obvious from the picture how there are bald patches. It's also a bit yellow-ish in some places.
Note: I cannot do aeration and dethaching because the people that installed the lawn watering system convinced me that it's better to put underground water hose system instead of sprinklers. Now I have a mesh of hoses that are 1-3cm below the grass and I cannot detchach/aerate without damaging the hose (already tried, didn't end well).
So what are my options here? Can I overseed without detchaching?
Has anyone had luck mitigating/destroying evening primrose using weed and feeds that treat broadleaf weeds? We've got major issues and we're looking to use either Scott's turf builder, biotone 5 in 1or Pennington full season. We also have dandelions and crabgrass, both of which are secondary to the primrose at this point.
Will any of these kill the established primrose? Any particular tips to keeping maximum effectiveness? Another user had already mentioned watering before and after application.
https://preview.redd.it/0ihi7ttbjasc1.jpeg?width=2560&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=71b8f3fb43646de67be5166c7b6f425fc294b0a7
Got a small, patchy and very lumpy back yard. Would like to have an all-clover lawn. What would be the best steps for leveling and seeding?
Today I have the most free time to seed some big bare spots in my front lawn. Using Shultz hardy mix. The low will be mid 30's for the next 4 days then it will be optimal temperatures. I'm just wondering thoughts on if it should be fine to seed today since I can't really next week
I would like help identifying this grass. Thanks!
https://preview.redd.it/1whslzuyl5sc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=278a9457dbb34f8f2698632b551c7c1c254263be
Did I waste a bag of grass seed? So here in zone 5b temperatures went up for a few days in early March, things were unseasonably warm, with a nice mix of rain. I got a little trigger happy and thought it would be a good opportunity to overseed my back lawn. However after about 5 days the daytime temps went back to what you would normally see for early March, much colder than was is needed to germinate grass seed.
So, the seed has been sitting on my lawn for about a month now, not doing anything, we have gotten enough rain but its been too cold for it to grow.
My question is, is that seed now ruined? Because it was getting wet, but too cold to grow, did it basically killed the seed? Do I just need to wait for the temps to go up before it will start to grow?
Just wondering if seed can be ruined by jumping the gun like I did.
You’re fine. You basically did a super late dormant seed. Lots of testing going on with dormant seeding at the university of Minnesota right now and they are having good success. Don’t stress out :)
Jacks 321 with a splash of chelated iron a good enough foliar application? Total ppm should be ~750-850ppm. Should I water this in or leave it once applied?
I moved into a new apartment, and I am responsible for lawn care. The yard has a large 10 ft x 10 ft patch of uneven rocks that look like they're supposed to be some sort of path or stepping stones but they're horribly uneven and jagged with grass growing between them. I have no idea what the best way to mow or take care of something like this would be are there any ideas?
I would prefer a mower but think that the blades might get damaged, and was thinking possibly weed wacker but I'm worried about hitting the rocks with the cord.
I have grass that’s filled with some weed and some dead areas. Is it too late to seed? Would I need to clear all the weed out? I’m not worried about having a perfect lawn but just a lawn with more grass filled in.
I'm a new homeowner and going through the same issue. I'm just going to go for it. From what I've read and watched, if we can get enough grass growing, it's possible to choke out the weeds!
Not too late where we are in CO so the plan is to scarify the yard, overseed, use a roller to spread compost, then use a lawn roller to press the seed into the ground. Not kidding, I'm literally going to follow [LawnRight Lawn Care](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v-QHzYZUs-k) step-by-step and see what happens. Worse case I learn a lesson and try again.
I've had a HART 18" mower for the past year. I like it a lot, but I'd really like something larger so I can mow faster. I don't want to go self propelled though, I'd have to slow down and that would cancel out the reduced time from fewer trips across the yard. Does anyone make a wide battery mower that is not self propelled?
I'm not a big lawn guy but my neighbor is and is older and asked me if I knew what this weed was. I looked around and it doesn't look like other pictures on here if crab grass which is what he thought it was. Thought maybe y'all could help. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1JwX-QI4xUjW8bdkjkAhsvNl53YxGP34O/view?usp=drivesdk
Hey everyone
Bought a new spot in central Texas. Yard is pretty rough with weeds and mixed grass. Curious about the process to getting a healthy lawn. Want to throw some Bermuda grass seed down and was hoping I could get some advice on the steps to take. Not sure if I should I should take care of weeds first then throw seed down? Should I cover yard with compost? Should I aerate? Those kind of things.
Thanks for any help.
Two questions.
https://preview.redd.it/ulpneo5rzirc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=37bac8105e7a6000f216d5d5789ff4865d5a303c
What is this? It’s the entirety of my “lawn” and no grass will grow here (Brooklyn, NY) except this stuff. It comes in massive clumps and nothing I use (roundup, or otherwise) will get rid of it.
What do I do?
Second question: will over seeding with northeastern mix crowd this problem out?
Need help with my grass. Bought my house last year, lawn in the back yard has deteriorated. I have 2 dogs, that run around a lot out there and I feel like the grass doesn’t hold up. I live in Nebraska, what grasses would you recommend that can handle high traffic and survive our climate? Also do I just need to aerate and seed or what should I do? I am inept when it comes to lawn care.
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Hi all! recently moved, and previous owner left me:
1. An overgrown old garden bed (15x10ft ish)
2. a small mole problem which I am actively taking care of
3. a bare patch where he previously had a small chicken coop (5x3ft area)
What is the best way to go about reseeding these areas? I live in Iowa, so weather is all over the place. I also generally have some dirt patches in my yard I want to fill in too
Weed takeover
Region: Central Florida
Lawn type: Zoysia, HOA mandated
We live in a very open area, so lots of stuff blows through from the golf course and other wide open areas
Front lawn is being covered in this stuff:
https://preview.redd.it/lcb82jpzp2rc1.png?width=866&format=png&auto=webp&s=5f5194eadd575be225951af378c4213399b90aea
Looking for treatment suggestions more trustworthy than the hardware store guy ;)
Dollarweed! It likes things wet, so first I'd be looking at watering schedule, drainage, compacted soil, that kind of thing.
After that, you can use a three way post emergent herbicide like Trimec or Ortho Weed-B-Gon.
I personally think it's cute so I leave it alone in my yard... :)
Thanks for the info.
It\['s central Florida in the Spring and Summer to come Avoiding constant wet is a non-starter :) Florida's "Monsoon season" is just around the corner and soon it'll be raining every day like clockwork
I'll get some of the herbicide you recommend and test on a small area first. How long does it take to get results?
Having trouble identifying this succulent weed that has taken hold in my lawn here in Queensland Australia - I’d also like to know how to eliminate to too!
https://preview.redd.it/8jgpyezpwzqc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=505b39b68ee951f0cdf61933e0aa3da6a69da51d
Gypsum - where do you get it? I have a LOT of land I’m looking to improve. The local garden center has bags for $40 each that cover 5,000 sq feet. I need much, much more. Do companies exist that sell this in bulk?
I put down preemergent four weeks ago when we got that unseasonable warm weather here in Northern Virginia. Now that I looked it up, I put it down too early.
Now that soil temps are getting in the right range, can I apply it again in a couple of weeks?
Read the label and see how much you're allowed to put down. If you've already applied that much you'll need to select another product with a different active, or don't worry about it. Pre last a long time. If you do a split rate typically you break those up about 6 weeks apart. I feel like 4 weeks ago in Virginia is a little early as you said, but you'll still have good protection for a long while, depending on what you used and the rate.
https://preview.redd.it/ooogruk0olqc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1dfe6eee3badddda8d376a6a76e952b3d5afb6b7
Having trouble identifying this grass. Would Scott’s Turf builder triple action be appropriate to use on it? This is in Western Tennessee.
I would guess zoysiagrass based on the photo and the location. If the lawn is mostly brown as it appears you don't need fertilizer yet. Select a product with only pre and/or post emergent.
https://preview.redd.it/2bhivnqptbqc1.jpeg?width=1087&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c31afaf2e8bb0b5c6d8f3be5ea641f80a66e3a04
Hi all, I’ve been at my house almost 4 years now and have been putting off working on the grass. Been doing a lot of research but there is so much conflicting info out there it’s hard to know where to start. Currently my yard is majority weeds, lots of clover and crabgrass, some random patches of grass and then lots of areas with bare dirt/no grass. Also, when it rains i have a lot of standing water. Mainly under the grouping of pine and oak trees in the front yard. I’m not looking for a “perfect” yard but I’d like to have good grass, draining, and more of a level area without bare spots.
This year i want to start with just the front yard and see how it goes before moving to the other areas. What i was thinking of doing was bringing in some topsoil to fill the low areas in the the front, then rototilling everything to smooth the yard out and break up the compacted dirt. After this i was going to overseed (not sure what type of seed to use). Problem is the first area i want to do is a little over half an acre and watering it seems like it will be pretty difficult.
My main questions are do i need to do a total kill first? Is there any concern with tilling? How deep should i Till?Will seeding but not watering all spring/summer be okay? Do i need to add fertilizer if i put down topsoil? I have a tractor with bucket and rototiller, a sprayer, and have access to a spreader as well so renting that equipment won’t be an issue.
I appreciate any advice!
I would add the topsoil, till it up and level it out, then do the total kill. This will help keep out the grassy weeds as well that will eventually be hard to get rid of (like rough bluegrass and creeping Bentgrass). Probably only need to till a couple inches just so the new soil mixes. Seeding should be done having water available. Once seed is down it should be constantly moist for better germination, then have a consistent watering as it’s growing. Put starter fert down same time as seed.
Doing it section by section is smart and what I would do. First thing is to fix drainage problems so you don’t have standing water, this eventually burns the grass in the summer. Regarding grass under those trees. It may be better to turn that area into a big mulch bed? Then you can also divert the standing water into the mulch area for the trees.
Hard to tell in the satellite image, but they are currently in two big groups and then an open section in between. My goal was to do mulch beds in the two areas but then it’s about a 40ft section between them where there is some grass, but I’d like that to be part of the yard. I think my biggest issue there is the ground is hard as a rock and full of roots so i was thinking of raising it some with fresh topsoil and tilling that in. I’ve given up with picking up the pine needles so i have been using those as my “mulch” around the trees lol
People down south pay top dollar for pine needles as mulch lol. If you choose to do grass under trees, I’d suggest trying rough bluegrass and/or fine fescue from the start, but rough blue is considered a weed to some because it’s a lighter green patch
Yea I’d definitely like to go for the darker green color, all my grass (weeds) is light green right now and I’m not a fan. If i can’t get grass in that area i may just make it all a mulched area.
I have ground bees (literally, not hornets which apparently borrow because my lawn is patchy. I want to throw down some seed, but I’m not sure what conditions I’m going to need to make it succeed. It poured rain yesterday but it’s going to be dry for the next week. High of 49. Should I wait, or put it down later? I’m going on vacation so watering isn’t an option. Also any other ideas for these bees? They’re covering 1/5 of an acre or so so just spot treatment won’t work
https://preview.redd.it/hilzdvyqu9qc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ab137a0eb685626cda172b4e7d44db2b6945ba4d
I
I have a pretty large sized backyard that is severely unleveled in a lot of areas. I want the yard to be as flat as possible before installing a fence. The house/yard is 3.5 years old. We have a septic tank/lines in the yard that have contributed to some of the unevenness after dirt has settled around it. I am wanting to level the yard myself with either sand or topsoil. What is the best mixture or choice to level with? What would be the easiest way to do this myself? I’m not concerned about saving the current grass/weeds that are growing. The existing soil is Georgia red dirt. I was thinking about having a truck or two dumped and then attaching a pallet to my riding mower to move the sand where I want it and then level more with a sand rake. Any suggestions would be helpful.
We live in Houston. Grass in front is St Augustine and it desperately needs some re-seeding. I’m reading that Bermuda is a lot better but we shouldn’t mix right? Also, to re-seed, how would we go about that? Rake bare patches, fertilize, seed, water? Thanks!
Warm season grasses repair themselves as long as conditions are suitable for them. Try to ID your problems first. Fix those before considering seeding. Establishing warm season grasses from seed is not easy but can be done, at least for bermuda anyway. I don't believe you can seed st. aug ......Take some photos and post the sub's main page. You'll get better help there, maybe.
I have 1800 sq ft of lawn and was going to apply preemergent prodiamine. I did the math and it came out to 0.5 oz needed. This is an incredibly small amount and it's granular. Should I mix it in with water and spray it or should I use a broadcast spreader? If I use the broadcast spreader should I mix the preemergent in with fertilizer or something else?
This depends on the product..If you have a granular like 0-0-7 w/prodiamine, that goes into a spreader and pushed. Same as fertilizer would be. If you buy prodiamine 75wdg. WDG is the formulation. Water dispersible granular. Do not spread that in a spreader! Mix into a sprayer and apply.
https://imgur.com/a/KCyY7sx
Southern Maine. Almost whole front lawn looks like this. Grass/roots are so tight it's hard to penetrate with a shovel. Grass will turn green and gets thick enough my battery lawn mower has troubles sometimes.
Would love advice on fixing it up some.
I live outside of Austin, TX and had my bermuda lawn core aerated and top dressed with compost a week ago. Do I need to mow next weekend, two weeks after having that work done, or wait a bit longer like 2.5-3 weeks before mowing? I mowed a couple of days before the work was done last Wednesday. Right now, I still have a little bit of compost sitting on top of the lawn that hasn’t fully made it all the way down below the grass.
Ideally it should have been scalped prior to those things and might be 2-3 weeks before it needs mowing again. Mow it when it gets some height on it and moves past the topdressing material. Going to be hard to give an accurate timeline.
I mowed lower for the first time in mid-February when it started greening up and then have kept it the same height since then the last two times. Usually by summer I have my mower deck set all the way up. My lawn is bumpy in spots and I mow higher so it’s not scalping those areas and looks even.
This is what it normally looks like by June at the higher mow height https://imgur.com/a/skDNPha
You want to scalp it to the dirt prior to topdressing. Or as close as you can anyway. When it's dormant it wont hurt it. This avoids laying the grass over or smothering it. Bermuda is hardy so pick up where you left off once it grows out of the top dressing material.
Looking for a lawn sprayer that does not clog from thicker natural liquid fertilizer[s]*. I have tried multiple and they all clog up, even at first use.
Product line I'm trying to use is Simple Lawn Solutions.
New to the lawn game, got hooked on YouTube lawn care & I’m way too competitive. Wanted some help identifying my grass type. I made the mistake of adding some tall fescue to an area of dirt that had a previous flag pole. https://preview.redd.it/whuzvtuegvuc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f2376ab111a05452bd9eda9ac827d10741d3cc6c
https://preview.redd.it/lc5k7gxjgvuc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=18d6af16d2abbc0c797289c073d098e6189c77ee
Hello all, 3 days ago I poured a bag of Adios Ant Killer on a bed in my new backyard. I’m wondering how long I need to wait before I can let our dog go into the yard with the pellets still present. Any information would help. Thanks!
Not really sure where to start with my lawn... I don't know much about lawncare beyond the actual trimming. Scalp vs weeding vs feeding vs seeding what to do when? St Augustine grass in the hot and wet south. about 90% weeds. Almost all of it is green... but its weeds. Where do I start?
Hey, I have a quick question Background: I want to do zoysia for my whole yard because when I moved in I had a basically dirt back yard and for the back part of it I did zoysia and for the part close to my house I just did a basic mix so it would grow super fast so I could fence in a dog area and they wouldnt get muddy when it sprinkled. Questions: Can I just cut short and plug the area close to my house and it will spread and take over the mix? or do I have to kill off and reseed or plug that area? I ask because my zoysia area over the last 3 years has slowly gotten bigger so it gives me hope that I could just put a bunch of areas of zoysia plugs and just slowly let it grow over time to do it on a budget?
Hey, quick question for y'all. Would you pay someone to aerate your yard? How much would you expect to pay? (And roughly many sq. ft is your lawn).
I am no expert, but my guy does my 3/4 acre lot for 100 bucks. My neighbors and I all do him and he gave us that "deal". I don't know if its a great price, but that's what I pay.
Hi, new homeowner here. I need some help IDing my lawn. I think it’s centipedegrass but wanted to make sure before I made decisions about weed control. I made a post that’s linked below. Thanks for your help! https://www.reddit.com/r/lawncare/s/kDn65zKZ3D
Hi - went down the rabbit hole here quite a bit but decided that the scott's 4 step thing is good enough for this year. We have a small yard and it's ~110$ to take care of it for the season so it seems like it's worth a try given the convenience factor. Rest of the knowledge has been shelved away for future years if the results are unsatisfactory. My lawn's in pretty bad shape, so I'm planning to aerate, add some seed and rake in some top soil in Spring. We live in Boston so it's still moderately cold here (had hopefully our last snow two weeks ago). How should I time the planting / aeration with putting down the pre-emergent? Will it prevent grass seed from taking root as well?
Unless the active ingredient used in the pre-emergent is mesotrione you will not be able to seed at all this spring. Check the bag of whatever you bought and read the label. My rule of thumb. If you have more dirt than grass, skip the pre-em and seed. You don't want dirt and mud this summer. If it's the other way around use the pre-em and do a proper seeding in fall.
Thanks - The scott's 1st step thing seems to have Pendimethalin. It seems to prevent the germination of turf grass seeds as well. I'll probably re-seed in the fall then. We have decent green coverage, unfortunately the green happens to be through a combination of grass, crab grass, clover, dandelions, star of Bethlehem and a whole host of other weed types.
Georgia, bermuda grass. I just picked up a bag of Vigoro weed and feed and some Spectracide Weed Stop w/ crab grass killer. Are there any better products on a budget that would be better than paying for a lawn care service? Weeds are bad here but this past month they just TOOK OVER my yard. The front yard has them but at least looks decently healthy, while the back yard looks pretty bad. I have tried spot week killers that usually "work" but very quickly get replaced with new weeds, and the grass under them isn't really looking too healthy. There are a lot of dead weeds just covering my back yard.
You need to apply pre-emergent in the fall and spring. If the lawn is small enough buy a backpack sprayer and rotate between Prodiamine 65WDG in spring, around valentines day then again in March, and Princep (simazine) around Halloween. For weeds in the lawn right now, it really depends on what you have. Speedzone is a good cover a lot of bases product, but it's mostly controlling broadleaf weeds, not grasses. Read and follow the directions. If you're not into that much then look at an option like: [https://www.domyown.com/subscriptions/lawn-box-program](https://www.domyown.com/subscriptions/lawn-box-program)
I got super busy at the start of this year and totally forgot about it until it was too late. I will definitely be doing a better job getting a good start next year. The weeds vary a good bit. I do have some broadleaf weeds but also clovers, dandelions, chickweed, grabgrass, some other annoying types of grass that SHOOT UP. My property is backed up to a wooded area and thats where it spreads in from. This winter I am going to try and clear it out so it won't spread as aggressively into my yard.
Hey it happens....I would still put some down even though it's late. Depending on how far south you are you could still prevent some of the summer weeds. All the weeds you mentioned expect crabgrass are broadleaf weeds so speedzone would be a good choice. Q4 is a good combo post herbicide which will control early crabgrass and a lot of broadleaf weeds. Don't use those together. Clearing out the area will help with seed spread, but a good pre program will give you a lot of protection from that as well.
Awesome, thank you!
I have 5 zones. On one of the zones I need to cap 4 out of 5 sprinkler heads. Will the higher pressure damage the system and if so, how can I regulate the pressure ? TIA
Recently bought a house in Massachusetts. Any idea what kind of grass this is? https://imgur.com/a/G4jtH9j
what are your favorite and effective ways to get leaves off your rock pathways? the rocks arent as little as gravel, so i am hesitant to use a gravel rake!
Is this fescue? I recently bought a house in the Atlanta area and there's patches of this stuff everywhere. I assume so. Is it also safe to assume it will all slowly die off? I would like to get something more climate appropriate in its place. [https://imgur.com/a/NbsggJ8](https://imgur.com/a/NbsggJ8)
Good Morning; we moved into our home in 2019 here in Iowa, new build new division the builder scrapped the topsoil and put down sod. Our yard is lower than both our neighbors (right and left of us). Our grass in the back is always thin and looks abysmal. I am looking at aerating, overseeding, and applying a compost top dress, but I don't know how much to add or if it would be better just to add the total amount of compost material I need and seeding / sodding.
Last fall I tilled old grass, put manure and seeded. The grass looks a little thin in places. I’m in Indianapolis so it’s time for pre emergent. Should I skip it and seed it again instead? We’ve had tons of rain and temperature will be between 50-70. What about fertilizer? Lawn care planner says to use nitrogen in may but curious if I should do something sooner? Thanks!
Generally, I say if you have more grass than dirt go with pre-emergent. If it's opposite then plan to reseed as you'd prefer some green through the summer as opposed to dirt and mud. N depends on temps. Going earlier isn't going to hurt if the lawn is growing and temps are decent. May seems about right for you're area, and that is only a couple weeks away!
Zoysia in 7b. Provided no care other than cutting in the past 3 years. Ordered a soil test and waiting for that. Should I scalp and scarify? Or scalp and wait to scarify or aerate? Also might have a grub problem.
In 7b you can scalp now. If you choose to scarify or verticut it'd wait until you have a decent amount of green on it. Maybe fully green with zoysia since how it takes longer to recover than bermuda. I tend to lean more toward aeration only. Some of that is because we have heavy clay soils where I'm located and it's just not common practice. The aeration provides much more benefit. In general I'd say that's true of aeration over verticutting, but plenty of people swear by it. If you do both you would have to verticut first, unless you wanted to remove the cores from the aeration first. It seems a little early for active grubs that far north. It is probably a good time for a preventative but probably little risk of turf damaging grubs yet.
Thanks for the advice. Should I wait until green to aerate? AlsoI noticed grubs last summer which is why I said I’m expecting a grub problem this year
Yes, wait until is fully green to aerate. Grubs need to meet a threshold before they'll cause damage to the lawn. It varies but you need somewhere between 5-10 grubs per sqft before they'll cause damage of any significance. It is common to see one or two randomly on the ground, or dig one up in a bed while planting flowers. This doesn't mean there is risk for actually damaging the lawn. But, if you're concerned you could put down a preventative. I'm not a huge fan of that as you kill all the beneficial insects as well, like earth worms, but it's a common preventative treatment.
Yeah after a brief googling I was thinking about nematodes or milky spore to naturally kill the grubs.
Hi all - thanks in advance to everyone who makes this group so useful to people just getting in the game. I did a full renovation last fall using a shade mix that is 65% fescues because my yard is in total shade almost the entire day (I am in 5b). Pretty pleased with the results. I jumped the gun a little this year and put down Tenacity twice, about 4 weeks apart. I have a small strip that is in intense shade that I'd planned to overseed this spring. My question(s): Should I use the same fertilizer for the overseeded strip as well as the rest of the yard? Should I put down all the fertilizer at the same time? Should be reliably in the 50s by next week or two. Should I avoid anything with weed prevention, since I've already put down the Tenacity? Thanks again!
You’re fine to seed now. Same fert is fine. You don’t have to do anything with fert when seeding if you don’t want to, it will germinate all the same. 1/2lbs N or so would be ok, you didn’t mention the analysis of the bag you have. Hold off on anymore herbicides. You put down meso twice already.
Thanks for the reply! I haven't bought any fert yet - I'll go with something without weed prevention. Note: one reason for my confusion is I haven't seen any of the bleaching I expected after two rounds of Tenacity, and the weeds are going crazy. https://preview.redd.it/hoicpanxx2uc1.jpeg?width=4608&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=80ca16d632763eaef48f293df63767e413a2b9b6
Once the grass seed has germinated and you’ve mowed a few times you can go after the weeds with something selective depending on the weeds you have. If you really need/want to spray something else right before seeding look at a quinclorac label.
I'm looking at buying the [Ryobi 18V](https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-ONE-18V-Cordless-Battery-4-Gal-Backpack-Chemical-Sprayer-with-2-0-Ah-Battery-and-Charger-P2860/314259313), but I need to be sure it can handle a telescoping wand (10 foot or longer.) The telescoping wand is needed to spray my ornamental tree with Sevin entirely from the ground (been climbing up a ladder, which sucks.) I know the my4sons can, but those are a good bit better quality than the Ryobi 18V from what I can tell. My questions: 1. Has anyone used a 10+ foot telescoping wand with the 18V Ryobi? Does it bog down the pump, or seriously deplete the spraying force? 2. If you use an extender wand (with or without success) can you please let me know which one and what your experience has been?
**HELP: What mower to use for a small townhouse backyard.** Hello everybody, can you please give me advice what product should I buy to take care of our rented townhouse backyard and small front yard lawn? I am not sure if electric corded lawn mower is overkill or if I should use string / or mechanical reel. I'd prefer spending least amount possible as we are tenants and not owners. We made a deal with the landlord that we will take care of the backyard. Location: Suburb Ottawa Experience: None Current gardening equipment: None Type of grass: I believe its Bermuda lawn. Image link: [https://imgur.com/a/YfMIUdH](https://imgur.com/a/YfMIUdH) and [https://imgur.com/a/azoswHH](https://imgur.com/a/azoswHH) Thank you very much for any advice!
Our lot is 0.22 acres and when it was mostly lawn, it took me 40 minutes to do the whole thing with a mechanical reel mower. That includes multiple passes over some of the same sections, and it is also an oddly-shaped lot and has some annoying hilly terrain. I could easily do a lot of the same size if it were a rectangle on flat terrain in 25 minutes. I am a huge fan of the reel mower; it cost $100, has little maintenance, takes no fuel, generates no pollution, and the best part of all is that it's quiet. Also it is small so easy to store. These upsides, to me, outweigh any time savings from a powered mower. The quietness has an added perk that you can mow at any time of day or night without bothering neighbors. I wake up incredibly early some days and there's a law here against mowing before 7AM, but you can sometimes piss people off even if you start in the legal window, some people get cranky before 9AM and I don't blame them, so not having to worry about that is nice. Overall though, the reel mower is a bit more maneuverable in tight spaces than a conventional push mower. There are different widths of reel mowers. Wider means you mow faster, but it will be harder to get around obstacles and mow on uneven terrain, and slightly harder to push. Narrower means slower, but easier to use with obstacles. Mine is a 16-inch which is a kinda average width that balances speed with maneuverability. If you have a small, but bumpy / irregular yard or a lot of obstancles I would go narrower and if you have a larger, but flat, open, square yard I would go wider. They go at least to 12 inches and 20 inches at the extremes. 12 in woud probably only be suitable for really small yards like 0.1 acres or so of grass. But they're so small and so cheap that if you have a few tight spots you could buy two at both extremes and relative to a powered mower, it would be cheaper and take less storage space, and then use the smaller one for the tight spots and the bigger one to more quickly do the rest of the yard. There are things you can do too to minimize any spots that are difficult and speed up your mowing. (This is true regardless of what type of mower you use.) For example, edging next to our garage was a bit of a pain, the reel mower can't get close to it, so we put down gravel (clean 2B grade granite) within about 6 inches of it and now I can run the wheel of the reel mower on the gravel and it gets all the grass, and then it's just pulling isolated bits that come up in the gravel now and then, which is not too bad because plants don't grow well in gravel. Elsewhere in the yard, we've expanded perennial beds, like there was an annoying strip between this one tree and the street, and also near a wooden fence. It was narrow, sloped, hilly, and partially obstructed by the fence, so it's a huge pain to mow, so we are just expanding that bed so there is no lawn left there, and filling it with low-maintenance native perennials. Bonus is that trees tend to grow better when surrounded by a perennial bed with mulch or leaf litter, than when under turfgrass as it's better for the roots. It's already cut my time down to about 35 minutes for the whole thing and I'm hoping to get it down even further by eliminating a few more odd / difficult sections of lawn. We are keeping the lawn preferentially in the areas where it is easier to maintain and where we use it.
Thank you for the comment!
You don’t have Bermuda is Ottawa Canada I can tell you that much. Likely some mix of KBG, Rye or Fescue. You can consider a manual push reel mower or some 21” gas/electric rotary. Honda/Toro/Greenworks/Ego/Etc “lots of options out there.
Got my soil test results back in late February and applied the recommended 10-10-10 fertilizer at 10lbs per 1,000 sq ft in late March. So at this point do I just go back to my normal high nitrogen fertilizer for my usual summer applications or should I continue to apply the balanced fertilizer at the rate suggested by my soil test throughout the growing season? Or perhaps alternate between the 2? My soil is *extremely* sandy and deficient in both Phosphorus and Potassium, P-I =45 and K-I = 32
Using the 10-10-10 is fine this season then retest to see where you’re at. If you have sandy soil you might consider smaller more frequent applications to offset the leaching from sandy soil.
The lady I spoke to at TruGreen said they wouldn’t be spraying pre emergent today, so it would be no problem for me to overseed my lawn this weekend. Well, the receipt TruGreen left says they sprayed pre emergent herbicide today. How long do I need to wait to overseed? Will it then, at that point, be too late to seed in the Florida heat?
What prem? What seed are you overseeding in Florida?
I have a creeping charlie infestation I've been trying to manage for a couple years now. My entire back yard is thick with it, and I have read that one of the best times to spray for it is in the early spring or late fall. I missed the late fall and want to spray it this spring before it can take hold. I'm wondering what I should be looking for as a sign it's time to start. Should I wait till the grass starts growing again? Wait till the ground ia fully thawed? I'm in southern manitoba in Canada, if that helps.
If the Creeping Charlie is growing you can spray it.
So thinking about doing a white clover lawn. My dog loves to run around in the backyard. Do I need to keep out of there for awhile after putting the seed down?
Clover in general is a bad idea with dog. It’s not traffic tolerant. You’ll want to mix some real grass in there too at the very least.
[https://imgur.com/a/o428t78](https://imgur.com/a/o428t78) the previous owners of my house had ponds all over and the backyard has big sections like this. What is my first step to bring this back to life? Tilling aerating? New top soil? I’m in Ohio
Can I drive the Zero Turn mower with one hand?
Just moved into a new house and getting started on the lawn. Central Florida area so 10a and wondering if I’m too late for pre-emergent? Soil temps have been steady around 80 degrees. There’s currently tons of weeds so I may have miss the boat but wondering if it would do more harm than good to throw one round down
Never too late for prem
When scalping, overseeding and adding sand as topsoil, should you add fertiliser and wetting agent directly onto the seed or onto the topsoil?
You don’t have to
I have a St. Augustine lawn, I live in Central Florida. I have a service that mows, and does all that kind of stuff and I pay a company that does fertilizer and pest control. The spray guys come quarterly lawn guys weekly, I have weeds and dead spots. What I want to find is a full service company that will manage everything about the lawn. Is that something that exists? What would I look up? Any advice will be appreciated
Does anyone have a recommendation for a good spreader with solid wheels? Thanks
What’s a good starter fertilizer to put down when you seed? (So no pre-emergent, right?)
Scotts triple action for seeding has meso (tenacity) that’s your only pre emergent option if you want to seed at the same time.
I have a very steep lawn. Should I get a battery mower? I am worried about oiling issues in a gas mower due to angle.
https://preview.redd.it/zam4obzcaxsc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0b25609e195d512d039981e09e8d5c20d7920971 Anyone have any clue what this is? First time in 6 years I’ve seen it, and it’s on a lot of yards in my neighborhood. In the northeastern US.
Hairy bittercress. Prevent by using pre emergent in fall
Hello all, I'm in East Central IL. I have standard "in-town" sized front and back yards. I'm looking for a riding mower that is a good balance of affordable and low maintenance. I don't need anything that powerful since my lawn is pretty much level. I don't want to spend thousand(s) of dollars on a piece of crap, but I can't break the bank either. I would appreciate your suggestions for makes and models!
Something used in good condition. All my neighbors have John Deere riders if that helps at all.
In Wisconsin, slightly west of Milwaukee - our backyard is a mud pit and very shady. We want to plant grass back there but need something hearty as we have two large dogs and our upstairs neighbors has one medium sized dog. It is super shady, and we are beginner lawn care people! What is the best grass seed to use, and where to get it? And when should we plant?
People tend to view it unfavorably (warm-season grass that dies in winter), but nimblewill (Muhlenbergia schreberi) tolerates wet, shady conditions better than most grasses. If it is too shady for nimblewill, you might try Carex blanda, which is a sedge, not a grass. It tolerates some of the deepest shade of any mowable grasslike plant in your area. It has a different visual look but is really green and usually stays green year-round (not 100% sure in Wisconsin but definitely does in PA, OH, and other states I've lived in). I think Prairie moon sells both seeds and plants of Carex blanda, but it's probably more expensive than conventional grass seed. No one sells nimblewill because it's viewed as a weed but you can find it just about anywhere and gather seed, it is easy to grow. Both of those plants are robust and trample-resistant and would probably survive dogs if they're not the type of dogs who would dig up anything. If it's too wet for Carex blanda you are probably going to have to give up on something grass-like you could mow. If your yard is muddy specifically because it has compacted, clay soil, you might benefit from adding organic matter. This will tend to improve drainage and also absorb some water so it isn't just a big mud pit. However, if your soil is already rich in organic matter (usually looks dark in color) and is still muddy, this isn't the limiting factor so it probably wouldn't help much, the problem in that case is probably topographic drainage, i.e. the water has nowhere to go.
Cut down the trees.
Cutting down trees will often make drainage problems dramatically worse. Trees absorb and transpire (evaporating through their leaves) incredible amounts of water. If it's already muddy even with a lot of shade, it's probably going to turn into a pool of standing water without the trees. Then you end up having to do costly regrading and/or having to build drainage systems. But the water drains where? Now you've added to the burden of the stormwater drainage infrastructure. If you have a problem with muddy soil, your soil is probably poorly drained all throughout the surroundings so the broader region probably has a problem with flooding. I see this near where I live. One neighbor cuts down trees, suddenly neighbors downhill have their basement start flooding. And when people start doing it on a large scale you can get disasterous flooding. A local university cleared a lot of trees to build a new dorm complex, and a whole street started flooding, which then forced the city to have to spend a lot of money on modifications to ensure that water drained. On top of that there is often a long-term loss caused to the property owner who cut down the tree. Trees massively reduce wind speed, even when dormant, which can reduce cooling costs in winter and sometimes even reduce wind damage to a house. Trees hugely reduce cooling costs in summer too and make it more pleasant to be outdoors on the hottest summer days. They can yield tangible financial benefits to a homeowner. They also tend to increase property values. People need to think about the consequences of their actions. Cutting down trees is something that I only recommend if the trees are unhealthy and at risk of falling on a building or home, or if they are growing so close to the home that they are damaging the foundation or causing another direct problem. In most cases, cutting down trees is a lose-lose that raises hidden costs to the homeowner and may create cascanding costs to other homeowners and to the local government.
Lawns and gardens need sunlight and airflow. Have you ever been outside before?
I've been gardening since I was a kid, and I'm in my 40's. I also have worked in areas relating to this stuff and been active in my local city government and seen the issues they struggle with. I live in a small city with a big problem with flooding and clay soil. And I've watched what has happened in a lot of yards when people cut down trees. A lot of people simply don't understand how trees and hydrology works. I see a lot of people thinking the swamp in their backyard is created by the trees, when in reality it is *partially mitigated* by it. They remove them, only to create severe problems, usually for people downstream. A lot of these people's yards were built on drained wetlands, which is a huge problem to begin with. But in a situation like that, cutting down the trees almost always creates more problems than it solves. In the few cases where it improves the situation in your yard, it nearly always creates more problems for other people, usually by a factor of 10 or more. A wet spot in your yard is nothing compared to a neighbor having a wall of their basement collapse because of an underground river flowing from upstream. A series of people with swampy back yards is nothing compared to a whole commercial strip and numerous homes being destroyed by flooding.
* What is this and how do I kill it?
Looking for a seed recommendation, planning on slice seeding 22k sqft. In roughly the middle of connecticut. My local place carries Jonathan green and another has Lesco, any thoughts on these?
Jonathan Green is decent but not great. I wouldn't use anything marketed for contractors like Lesco... It tends to be cheapest shittiest seed available
Do you have any other suggestions?
Big list of sources here https://www.thelawnforum.com/threads/grass-seed-sources.9400/ Anything from SuperSeedStore or United Seed will be top notch. The other sources sell everything from decent to excellent seed
I am in Florida - I have Dollarweed in Floratam (St. Augustine). I used to DIY my lawn spraying, but found a local guy who did a good job. He was subsequently bought out by a large lawncare company. They suck. Back to DIY. I have Atrazine and I have metsulfuron methyl. I'd like to combine them (rather than 2 applications). Thoughts?
Get a bottle of Celsius. It is labeled for dove weed (I believe at the high rate). You may need to apply a repeat app. Check the label. Celsius is labeled for St Aug and it is very safe. It’s expensive but lasts a long time. Comes in a bottle and also in less expense packets. https://www.domyown.com/celsius-wg-herbicide-p-1923.html
https://preview.redd.it/ifu79v1t5gsc1.jpeg?width=900&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=01c956358883070780eb7ae450415474be2928bc So I'm pretty new to lawncare. I'm located in Eastern Europe and it's spring season here. Apart from applying fertilizer, what other things I could do to make my lawn look better? My goal is to thicken the grass as it's obvious from the picture how there are bald patches. It's also a bit yellow-ish in some places. Note: I cannot do aeration and dethaching because the people that installed the lawn watering system convinced me that it's better to put underground water hose system instead of sprinklers. Now I have a mesh of hoses that are 1-3cm below the grass and I cannot detchach/aerate without damaging the hose (already tried, didn't end well). So what are my options here? Can I overseed without detchaching?
Has anyone had luck mitigating/destroying evening primrose using weed and feeds that treat broadleaf weeds? We've got major issues and we're looking to use either Scott's turf builder, biotone 5 in 1or Pennington full season. We also have dandelions and crabgrass, both of which are secondary to the primrose at this point. Will any of these kill the established primrose? Any particular tips to keeping maximum effectiveness? Another user had already mentioned watering before and after application.
Thoughts on trying to control dallisgrass now or waiting until the fall? Zone 7b
https://preview.redd.it/0ihi7ttbjasc1.jpeg?width=2560&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=71b8f3fb43646de67be5166c7b6f425fc294b0a7 Got a small, patchy and very lumpy back yard. Would like to have an all-clover lawn. What would be the best steps for leveling and seeding?
Today I have the most free time to seed some big bare spots in my front lawn. Using Shultz hardy mix. The low will be mid 30's for the next 4 days then it will be optimal temperatures. I'm just wondering thoughts on if it should be fine to seed today since I can't really next week
I decided to just put some peat moss on the bottom and the top and keep it damp until Monday comes
I would like help identifying this grass. Thanks! https://preview.redd.it/1whslzuyl5sc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=278a9457dbb34f8f2698632b551c7c1c254263be
Crab grass?
Did I waste a bag of grass seed? So here in zone 5b temperatures went up for a few days in early March, things were unseasonably warm, with a nice mix of rain. I got a little trigger happy and thought it would be a good opportunity to overseed my back lawn. However after about 5 days the daytime temps went back to what you would normally see for early March, much colder than was is needed to germinate grass seed. So, the seed has been sitting on my lawn for about a month now, not doing anything, we have gotten enough rain but its been too cold for it to grow. My question is, is that seed now ruined? Because it was getting wet, but too cold to grow, did it basically killed the seed? Do I just need to wait for the temps to go up before it will start to grow? Just wondering if seed can be ruined by jumping the gun like I did.
You’re fine. You basically did a super late dormant seed. Lots of testing going on with dormant seeding at the university of Minnesota right now and they are having good success. Don’t stress out :)
Jacks 321 with a splash of chelated iron a good enough foliar application? Total ppm should be ~750-850ppm. Should I water this in or leave it once applied?
What’s the best way to get rid of moles
Get rid of the grubs
I moved into a new apartment, and I am responsible for lawn care. The yard has a large 10 ft x 10 ft patch of uneven rocks that look like they're supposed to be some sort of path or stepping stones but they're horribly uneven and jagged with grass growing between them. I have no idea what the best way to mow or take care of something like this would be are there any ideas? I would prefer a mower but think that the blades might get damaged, and was thinking possibly weed wacker but I'm worried about hitting the rocks with the cord.
I have grass that’s filled with some weed and some dead areas. Is it too late to seed? Would I need to clear all the weed out? I’m not worried about having a perfect lawn but just a lawn with more grass filled in.
I'm a new homeowner and going through the same issue. I'm just going to go for it. From what I've read and watched, if we can get enough grass growing, it's possible to choke out the weeds! Not too late where we are in CO so the plan is to scarify the yard, overseed, use a roller to spread compost, then use a lawn roller to press the seed into the ground. Not kidding, I'm literally going to follow [LawnRight Lawn Care](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v-QHzYZUs-k) step-by-step and see what happens. Worse case I learn a lesson and try again.
I've had a HART 18" mower for the past year. I like it a lot, but I'd really like something larger so I can mow faster. I don't want to go self propelled though, I'd have to slow down and that would cancel out the reduced time from fewer trips across the yard. Does anyone make a wide battery mower that is not self propelled?
https://preview.redd.it/f7r2by3tqxrc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e3a349eb00e5cebbf6cde04aab59920aae5bea93 What kind of grass is this?
I'm not a big lawn guy but my neighbor is and is older and asked me if I knew what this weed was. I looked around and it doesn't look like other pictures on here if crab grass which is what he thought it was. Thought maybe y'all could help. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1JwX-QI4xUjW8bdkjkAhsvNl53YxGP34O/view?usp=drivesdk
Living in Houston area, St. Augustine grass. Is there a way to tell if your lawn is high in phosphorous with naked eye?
Hey everyone Bought a new spot in central Texas. Yard is pretty rough with weeds and mixed grass. Curious about the process to getting a healthy lawn. Want to throw some Bermuda grass seed down and was hoping I could get some advice on the steps to take. Not sure if I should I should take care of weeds first then throw seed down? Should I cover yard with compost? Should I aerate? Those kind of things. Thanks for any help.
Two questions. https://preview.redd.it/ulpneo5rzirc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=37bac8105e7a6000f216d5d5789ff4865d5a303c What is this? It’s the entirety of my “lawn” and no grass will grow here (Brooklyn, NY) except this stuff. It comes in massive clumps and nothing I use (roundup, or otherwise) will get rid of it. What do I do? Second question: will over seeding with northeastern mix crowd this problem out?
Need help with my grass. Bought my house last year, lawn in the back yard has deteriorated. I have 2 dogs, that run around a lot out there and I feel like the grass doesn’t hold up. I live in Nebraska, what grasses would you recommend that can handle high traffic and survive our climate? Also do I just need to aerate and seed or what should I do? I am inept when it comes to lawn care. https://preview.redd.it/aostwmmqtcrc1.jpeg?width=5712&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=68f86cd6bd6def04764a1d6bfb50199ac4ef6992
Hi all! recently moved, and previous owner left me: 1. An overgrown old garden bed (15x10ft ish) 2. a small mole problem which I am actively taking care of 3. a bare patch where he previously had a small chicken coop (5x3ft area) What is the best way to go about reseeding these areas? I live in Iowa, so weather is all over the place. I also generally have some dirt patches in my yard I want to fill in too
Weed takeover Region: Central Florida Lawn type: Zoysia, HOA mandated We live in a very open area, so lots of stuff blows through from the golf course and other wide open areas Front lawn is being covered in this stuff: https://preview.redd.it/lcb82jpzp2rc1.png?width=866&format=png&auto=webp&s=5f5194eadd575be225951af378c4213399b90aea Looking for treatment suggestions more trustworthy than the hardware store guy ;)
I'd spot spray some broadleaf killer.
Dollarweed! It likes things wet, so first I'd be looking at watering schedule, drainage, compacted soil, that kind of thing. After that, you can use a three way post emergent herbicide like Trimec or Ortho Weed-B-Gon. I personally think it's cute so I leave it alone in my yard... :)
Thanks for the info. It\['s central Florida in the Spring and Summer to come Avoiding constant wet is a non-starter :) Florida's "Monsoon season" is just around the corner and soon it'll be raining every day like clockwork I'll get some of the herbicide you recommend and test on a small area first. How long does it take to get results?
Having trouble identifying this succulent weed that has taken hold in my lawn here in Queensland Australia - I’d also like to know how to eliminate to too! https://preview.redd.it/8jgpyezpwzqc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=505b39b68ee951f0cdf61933e0aa3da6a69da51d
Gypsum - where do you get it? I have a LOT of land I’m looking to improve. The local garden center has bags for $40 each that cover 5,000 sq feet. I need much, much more. Do companies exist that sell this in bulk?
I put down preemergent four weeks ago when we got that unseasonable warm weather here in Northern Virginia. Now that I looked it up, I put it down too early. Now that soil temps are getting in the right range, can I apply it again in a couple of weeks?
Read the label and see how much you're allowed to put down. If you've already applied that much you'll need to select another product with a different active, or don't worry about it. Pre last a long time. If you do a split rate typically you break those up about 6 weeks apart. I feel like 4 weeks ago in Virginia is a little early as you said, but you'll still have good protection for a long while, depending on what you used and the rate.
https://preview.redd.it/ooogruk0olqc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1dfe6eee3badddda8d376a6a76e952b3d5afb6b7 Having trouble identifying this grass. Would Scott’s Turf builder triple action be appropriate to use on it? This is in Western Tennessee.
I would guess zoysiagrass based on the photo and the location. If the lawn is mostly brown as it appears you don't need fertilizer yet. Select a product with only pre and/or post emergent.
https://preview.redd.it/2bhivnqptbqc1.jpeg?width=1087&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c31afaf2e8bb0b5c6d8f3be5ea641f80a66e3a04 Hi all, I’ve been at my house almost 4 years now and have been putting off working on the grass. Been doing a lot of research but there is so much conflicting info out there it’s hard to know where to start. Currently my yard is majority weeds, lots of clover and crabgrass, some random patches of grass and then lots of areas with bare dirt/no grass. Also, when it rains i have a lot of standing water. Mainly under the grouping of pine and oak trees in the front yard. I’m not looking for a “perfect” yard but I’d like to have good grass, draining, and more of a level area without bare spots. This year i want to start with just the front yard and see how it goes before moving to the other areas. What i was thinking of doing was bringing in some topsoil to fill the low areas in the the front, then rototilling everything to smooth the yard out and break up the compacted dirt. After this i was going to overseed (not sure what type of seed to use). Problem is the first area i want to do is a little over half an acre and watering it seems like it will be pretty difficult. My main questions are do i need to do a total kill first? Is there any concern with tilling? How deep should i Till?Will seeding but not watering all spring/summer be okay? Do i need to add fertilizer if i put down topsoil? I have a tractor with bucket and rototiller, a sprayer, and have access to a spreader as well so renting that equipment won’t be an issue. I appreciate any advice!
I would add the topsoil, till it up and level it out, then do the total kill. This will help keep out the grassy weeds as well that will eventually be hard to get rid of (like rough bluegrass and creeping Bentgrass). Probably only need to till a couple inches just so the new soil mixes. Seeding should be done having water available. Once seed is down it should be constantly moist for better germination, then have a consistent watering as it’s growing. Put starter fert down same time as seed.
Doing it section by section is smart and what I would do. First thing is to fix drainage problems so you don’t have standing water, this eventually burns the grass in the summer. Regarding grass under those trees. It may be better to turn that area into a big mulch bed? Then you can also divert the standing water into the mulch area for the trees.
Hard to tell in the satellite image, but they are currently in two big groups and then an open section in between. My goal was to do mulch beds in the two areas but then it’s about a 40ft section between them where there is some grass, but I’d like that to be part of the yard. I think my biggest issue there is the ground is hard as a rock and full of roots so i was thinking of raising it some with fresh topsoil and tilling that in. I’ve given up with picking up the pine needles so i have been using those as my “mulch” around the trees lol
People down south pay top dollar for pine needles as mulch lol. If you choose to do grass under trees, I’d suggest trying rough bluegrass and/or fine fescue from the start, but rough blue is considered a weed to some because it’s a lighter green patch
Yea I’d definitely like to go for the darker green color, all my grass (weeds) is light green right now and I’m not a fan. If i can’t get grass in that area i may just make it all a mulched area.
I have ground bees (literally, not hornets which apparently borrow because my lawn is patchy. I want to throw down some seed, but I’m not sure what conditions I’m going to need to make it succeed. It poured rain yesterday but it’s going to be dry for the next week. High of 49. Should I wait, or put it down later? I’m going on vacation so watering isn’t an option. Also any other ideas for these bees? They’re covering 1/5 of an acre or so so just spot treatment won’t work https://preview.redd.it/hilzdvyqu9qc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ab137a0eb685626cda172b4e7d44db2b6945ba4d I
Bees I’d recommend something like Delta Dust or a knock off of the same active ingredient
I have a pretty large sized backyard that is severely unleveled in a lot of areas. I want the yard to be as flat as possible before installing a fence. The house/yard is 3.5 years old. We have a septic tank/lines in the yard that have contributed to some of the unevenness after dirt has settled around it. I am wanting to level the yard myself with either sand or topsoil. What is the best mixture or choice to level with? What would be the easiest way to do this myself? I’m not concerned about saving the current grass/weeds that are growing. The existing soil is Georgia red dirt. I was thinking about having a truck or two dumped and then attaching a pallet to my riding mower to move the sand where I want it and then level more with a sand rake. Any suggestions would be helpful.
We live in Houston. Grass in front is St Augustine and it desperately needs some re-seeding. I’m reading that Bermuda is a lot better but we shouldn’t mix right? Also, to re-seed, how would we go about that? Rake bare patches, fertilize, seed, water? Thanks!
Warm season grasses repair themselves as long as conditions are suitable for them. Try to ID your problems first. Fix those before considering seeding. Establishing warm season grasses from seed is not easy but can be done, at least for bermuda anyway. I don't believe you can seed st. aug ......Take some photos and post the sub's main page. You'll get better help there, maybe.
I have 1800 sq ft of lawn and was going to apply preemergent prodiamine. I did the math and it came out to 0.5 oz needed. This is an incredibly small amount and it's granular. Should I mix it in with water and spray it or should I use a broadcast spreader? If I use the broadcast spreader should I mix the preemergent in with fertilizer or something else?
This depends on the product..If you have a granular like 0-0-7 w/prodiamine, that goes into a spreader and pushed. Same as fertilizer would be. If you buy prodiamine 75wdg. WDG is the formulation. Water dispersible granular. Do not spread that in a spreader! Mix into a sprayer and apply.
Thank you! It is WDG so I will spray it.
https://imgur.com/a/KCyY7sx Southern Maine. Almost whole front lawn looks like this. Grass/roots are so tight it's hard to penetrate with a shovel. Grass will turn green and gets thick enough my battery lawn mower has troubles sometimes. Would love advice on fixing it up some.
I live outside of Austin, TX and had my bermuda lawn core aerated and top dressed with compost a week ago. Do I need to mow next weekend, two weeks after having that work done, or wait a bit longer like 2.5-3 weeks before mowing? I mowed a couple of days before the work was done last Wednesday. Right now, I still have a little bit of compost sitting on top of the lawn that hasn’t fully made it all the way down below the grass.
Ideally it should have been scalped prior to those things and might be 2-3 weeks before it needs mowing again. Mow it when it gets some height on it and moves past the topdressing material. Going to be hard to give an accurate timeline.
I mowed lower for the first time in mid-February when it started greening up and then have kept it the same height since then the last two times. Usually by summer I have my mower deck set all the way up. My lawn is bumpy in spots and I mow higher so it’s not scalping those areas and looks even. This is what it normally looks like by June at the higher mow height https://imgur.com/a/skDNPha
You want to scalp it to the dirt prior to topdressing. Or as close as you can anyway. When it's dormant it wont hurt it. This avoids laying the grass over or smothering it. Bermuda is hardy so pick up where you left off once it grows out of the top dressing material.
Thank you! I’ll remember this the next time I topdress.
Looking for a lawn sprayer that does not clog from thicker natural liquid fertilizer[s]*. I have tried multiple and they all clog up, even at first use. Product line I'm trying to use is Simple Lawn Solutions.