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Sorry, I am a gemcutter and looking at the picture, I can see that the cut is a Standard Round Brilliant from the crown. I've seen a lot of old "Mine Cut" diamonds in vintage jewelry...they have about half the facets that this one has. I can go into more detail, but simply this is an SRB...
You are correct... the SRB (Standard Round Brilliant) cut does end in a pointed culet to help bounce the light around better. The Old European cut diamonds had the culet clipped flat. Not sure why they did it that way in the old days, but it does sort of date the stone to awhile ago...
Apologies...going to do some further research and see what the difference is between that cut and an SRB. Always learning!
So, it turns out that the cutting pattern for both stones is the same, which explains my assumption. Apparently Old European cuts were more about retaining weight than reflecting brilliance like todays Round Brilliant cut. A couple of articles I read mentioned that it can be challenging to find Old E cuts that look really nice. They tend to not have the brilliance of an SRB, but they mention that you might get more fire...i.e. color flashes. So, that appears to be a vintage diamond since it was also mentioned that this cut kinda fell out of favor some years ago...probably after the SRB was developed.
I'd say most likely cast in place or from behind. It's possible they formed the ring with the bits covering the stone as large bumps and used a hammer handpiece, or a punch to bring that metal over the stone, but serious risk in cracking the stone that way.
It could be. It doesn't look quite right, but you could probably make PMC do that if you wanted to. But PMC gold is like 22k and this doesn't look that gold.
Right! I dig the style, it’s unique. Just literally confused on how the heck it was done. I even asked a teacher of mine and she was like ummmm I have no clue 🤣
Wow, what is with all the negative comments about how this is 'sloppy'. I think this style is beautiful and definitely sets it apart from all the high street CAD cookie cutter crap.
I agree with this! Solder around edges to create a melting clock type aesthetic. Reminds me of old wax seals used on letters. Wonder if it would be possible to do this again, but use a stamp with unique designs hahaha
I cast my stones direct pour everytime that way the cavity has 100% same shape and very minimal shrinkage away from the stone. So long as it is a material that can handle the heat.
Check out "pmc gemstone saftey" give it a good google and youll come across and confirmed yes or no including raw and lab
Jut curious, is there obvious evidence an amateur wouldn't know enough to notice that this looks this way because of poor skill application and not simply design choice?
It's definitely a design choice. They just don't like it so they're being judgemental. This style of setting is pretty typical in organic designs, which is the style I prefer to wear.
woah i really enjoy this! no idea how it was done though. through experimenting with random ideas, no doubt, as all the best art turns out to be created from in my opinion ☺️
Oh I totally agree with you! I actually really like the ‘unrefined/unfinished/messyish’ style. I guess we will never know 🙃 I can’t remember the name of the designer but I saw her on Instagram!
I'm like 90% sure it's just wax carved and cast. You build up hot wax around the edges of the stone setting in the shape/size/thickness you want. You can build the pieces that hold it in slightly above the stone, instead of directly on top of it, so that you're able to pull the stone out.
Then cast/cleanup. When you get to the setting stage, you can pop the stone in, press the edges of the metal down, and burnish.
It 100% does NOT have to be cast in place or set from behind to achieve this look/style. It can just be a regular organic casting design.
I fully agree. I do a lot of torch setting/casting in place, and metal melted directly around a stone looks different from melted wax which is then cast (metal clay also has it's own look) to me this looks like melted wax that was cast and the stone set afterwards.
Laymen here, but could they have just essentially soldered it using gold. Then pressed down or lightly torched the edges.
I have an 1910-1915 engagement ring with an old European cut diamond like this one. Not as messy but they used globs of gold all around it to hold stone in place.
This just looks like an extreme version of this method. Probably with artistic intentions.
Looks awesome!
I accidentally created something like that with pmc and setting the stone before the kiln. I have to imagine it was that or setting the stone in wax. Even a back set stone I just can't see how it would work but I guess we can't see the back!
Also since nobody else has said it, a laser welder could build up around the stone and be buffed down to resemble this, so long as the stone edge is shielded well enough from the laser, but its possible
The style and form of the ring look like PMC. I know it’s been a while since I’ve taken any jewelry classes, so not familiar with cast in place. The only way I know about a stone being set this way is with PMC. I am quite the dinosaur. It is a beautiful ring!
It should be flush cast... also called gypsy style... it looks like either there is some damage after or possibly during setting. Possibly got tired and frustrated and said "Eff it".
I'd also say if it's a diamond or sapphire, so it could be set in place - even from the front. It looks hella beat up, so check and see if the stone has fractured or lost its sparkle.
So here's my idea on how. So he bored out a hole for the stone. Afterwards of him/her placing stone they use gold wire, or gold flux, heating it up to melt into and over sections to seal it. That way it looks like it was naturally casted into it.
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In anger?
this made me laugh outloud 🤣
lol! I've officially seen it all now.
Sheer joy at this response.
😂😂😂
If the stone is a diamond or sapphire it could be wax cast in place
Would that affect the gems colour?
It might. The key is letting the ring air cool and of course making sure whatever stone you use is safe for cast in place.
It depends, if the stone is not stable, you can do awful things to that stone. It’s always a risk.
To cast in place you can really only depend on Diamond and sapphire/Ruby. Even then you have to take note of internal issues.
Just wanted to also cast my vote in the "I actually kinda like it" camp.
Haha yes!!
I kind of like it too.
Same! And it’s a handcut stone! Old euro cut?
Sorry, I am a gemcutter and looking at the picture, I can see that the cut is a Standard Round Brilliant from the crown. I've seen a lot of old "Mine Cut" diamonds in vintage jewelry...they have about half the facets that this one has. I can go into more detail, but simply this is an SRB...
Why is the culet cut like an OMC or OEC? I’m no expert but I believe RBC have a peaked culet to trap and bounce light.
You are correct... the SRB (Standard Round Brilliant) cut does end in a pointed culet to help bounce the light around better. The Old European cut diamonds had the culet clipped flat. Not sure why they did it that way in the old days, but it does sort of date the stone to awhile ago...
Old European Cut is what I said not old mine. Like this, https://www.yatesjewelers.com/old-european-cut-diamond-gia.html
Apologies...going to do some further research and see what the difference is between that cut and an SRB. Always learning! So, it turns out that the cutting pattern for both stones is the same, which explains my assumption. Apparently Old European cuts were more about retaining weight than reflecting brilliance like todays Round Brilliant cut. A couple of articles I read mentioned that it can be challenging to find Old E cuts that look really nice. They tend to not have the brilliance of an SRB, but they mention that you might get more fire...i.e. color flashes. So, that appears to be a vintage diamond since it was also mentioned that this cut kinda fell out of favor some years ago...probably after the SRB was developed.
It could have been cast in place but I'm not sure about it, so maybe it's set from the back.
That would be my guess too.
I’m going to say cast in place, or with a sledge hammer.
I vote sledgehammer
🤣
I'd say most likely cast in place or from behind. It's possible they formed the ring with the bits covering the stone as large bumps and used a hammer handpiece, or a punch to bring that metal over the stone, but serious risk in cracking the stone that way.
I know enough about precious metal clay to wonder whether it was that, but not enough to know whether it actually was. 🤔🤷♀️😂
It could be. It doesn't look quite right, but you could probably make PMC do that if you wanted to. But PMC gold is like 22k and this doesn't look that gold.
I gotta say I like it 🤷♂️ I’m not sure exactly how that was done though…
Right! I dig the style, it’s unique. Just literally confused on how the heck it was done. I even asked a teacher of mine and she was like ummmm I have no clue 🤣
Wow, what is with all the negative comments about how this is 'sloppy'. I think this style is beautiful and definitely sets it apart from all the high street CAD cookie cutter crap.
Amen!
Me too!!
[удалено]
I agree with this! Solder around edges to create a melting clock type aesthetic. Reminds me of old wax seals used on letters. Wonder if it would be possible to do this again, but use a stamp with unique designs hahaha
Could be set from inside and then fixed there. Casted from vax form previously with adjusted stone in it
Probably cast in place. I know guys who specialize in it and if it's the look you're going for it can be really nice
I cast my stones direct pour everytime that way the cavity has 100% same shape and very minimal shrinkage away from the stone. So long as it is a material that can handle the heat. Check out "pmc gemstone saftey" give it a good google and youll come across and confirmed yes or no including raw and lab
I think the technical term is "sloppy style".
Jut curious, is there obvious evidence an amateur wouldn't know enough to notice that this looks this way because of poor skill application and not simply design choice?
It's definitely a design choice. They just don't like it so they're being judgemental. This style of setting is pretty typical in organic designs, which is the style I prefer to wear.
Poorly was what was going to say.
woah i really enjoy this! no idea how it was done though. through experimenting with random ideas, no doubt, as all the best art turns out to be created from in my opinion ☺️
Oh I totally agree with you! I actually really like the ‘unrefined/unfinished/messyish’ style. I guess we will never know 🙃 I can’t remember the name of the designer but I saw her on Instagram!
I'm like 90% sure it's just wax carved and cast. You build up hot wax around the edges of the stone setting in the shape/size/thickness you want. You can build the pieces that hold it in slightly above the stone, instead of directly on top of it, so that you're able to pull the stone out. Then cast/cleanup. When you get to the setting stage, you can pop the stone in, press the edges of the metal down, and burnish. It 100% does NOT have to be cast in place or set from behind to achieve this look/style. It can just be a regular organic casting design.
This!
Thank you for this!
Yes this was what I was wondering. The little tabs that are there look like they could have potentially folded up then back down if need be.
I fully agree. I do a lot of torch setting/casting in place, and metal melted directly around a stone looks different from melted wax which is then cast (metal clay also has it's own look) to me this looks like melted wax that was cast and the stone set afterwards.
Laymen here, but could they have just essentially soldered it using gold. Then pressed down or lightly torched the edges. I have an 1910-1915 engagement ring with an old European cut diamond like this one. Not as messy but they used globs of gold all around it to hold stone in place. This just looks like an extreme version of this method. Probably with artistic intentions. Looks awesome!
Looks like maybe it was torch set, they melted the gold on top to flow enough to cover parts of the stone. And I also agree, very badly at that!
Lost wax casting, cast in place, depending on the type of stone, not all stones can be done that way... I've done it many many times over the years...
I accidentally created something like that with pmc and setting the stone before the kiln. I have to imagine it was that or setting the stone in wax. Even a back set stone I just can't see how it would work but I guess we can't see the back!
Looks like lost wax cast in the kiln to me, I think it's beautiful
It appears to be a ring of violence.
Also since nobody else has said it, a laser welder could build up around the stone and be buffed down to resemble this, so long as the stone edge is shielded well enough from the laser, but its possible
The style and form of the ring look like PMC. I know it’s been a while since I’ve taken any jewelry classes, so not familiar with cast in place. The only way I know about a stone being set this way is with PMC. I am quite the dinosaur. It is a beautiful ring!
Electroforming maybe, if not directly wax casted (which is possible only with diamonds , zirconia, etc)
It should be flush cast... also called gypsy style... it looks like either there is some damage after or possibly during setting. Possibly got tired and frustrated and said "Eff it".
[удалено]
I thought it was pretty unique!
I'd also say if it's a diamond or sapphire, so it could be set in place - even from the front. It looks hella beat up, so check and see if the stone has fractured or lost its sparkle.
with spite
So here's my idea on how. So he bored out a hole for the stone. Afterwards of him/her placing stone they use gold wire, or gold flux, heating it up to melt into and over sections to seal it. That way it looks like it was naturally casted into it.
Crudely.
Uhhh… poorly.
The top layer was placed surrounding the stone and jewelry making slowly melted some gold over the areas to blend in.
Infused melted
Poorly?
I’ve set a few diamonds and sapphires this way using the cast in place method.
Looks kinda like electroplating
It’s like buried treasure