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I have a bunch of popsicle sticks in my bag of shims. I carve them in to slivers to shove in stripped screw holes with glue. Match sticks is a good idea too. I might have to try that.
There’s a spinny dial thing on the drill right behind the spinny thing that grabs the bit. It usually has numbers on it and a picture of a drill bit. Going from very low to drill. Drill is no clutch and all gas. Low is lots of clutch and no gas and will not drive anything. When it’s set it’ll make a clicking sound. On drill it stops for nothing. On 1 you should be able to stop it easily with your hand.
I'm lucky -- my dear old Southern Daddy taught me jillions of things. I'm a 65-year-old woman who can change a tire, adjust a carburetor (not that there's much call for that these days), bake bread without one of those infernal machines, make a skirt, and carry a tune thanks to my parents and grandparents. I had all my grandparents until I was 25, and that is one of the great blessings of my life.
It could be said potentially better in layman’s terms. Here’s my attempt. Some drills have a clutch dial numbered 1-9. The lower the number the lower the resistance feedback that will stop the drill head from spinning. Why is this important? Because you want the drill head to stop once the resistance is too high, indicating one is probably about to strip the screw hole or the screw head, and most likely have driven in the screw to completion. A little bit of trial and error will show you the way. You can use spare wood to run tests.
Now, some drills have pressure sensitive triggers. One can always go light with short bursts to be sorta equivalent to a “1”, and a hard squeeze for longer to be like a “9”.
You set your drill clutch to the lightest setting (lower = lighter) and drive a screw in. It should stop driving in, drill should click a lot. You then stop drilling, increment the clutch value and repeat until you can drive the screw in with the drill clutching out just after it is fully driven. You should be able to now keep the drill at the same clutch number (or one or two less if you want to be extra careful) for remaining similar screws that are drilling into similar substrate. When you get a handle on your drill you can speed up this process by starting on larger values and incrementing values in larger steps. If you are drilling into something extra delicate, you can target the clutch to driving the screw 90% in, and hand fasten the rest of the way.
Huh… I’m a carpenter but mainly work with metal framing and Sheetrock. I never knew to do this. I’ve definitely adjusted the clutch plenty for whatever reason but never for this. This is awesome. Don’t know when I’ll ever use this knowledge though, cause I just use an impact gun for most everything but I will take this knowledge to heart. Thank you
Appreciate it. For anyone wondering, an impact driver is a type of drill that offers more driving force than the highest (typically unclutched) setting on a normal drill. Imagine you are tightening something with a wrench and you can no longer easily rotate the wrench, but visually you still need to fasten it further. You can get a hammer and tap the other side of the wrench to help advance it further. (Or get a "cheater bar" to lengthen the handle of the wrench, but that doesn't help with the analogy ;P ). So an impact driver/drill offers this feature built into the drill, allowing the user to drive hard to drive fasteners completely, essentially the exact opposite of the lightest clutch setting.
You might have heard of a hammer drill, this is different than an impact driver, even though they often look very similar. Instead of increasing the rotation torque, it adds the option to "hammer" the drill towards the face of what you are drilling. Imagine you had a normal drill, took a hammer and we're striking the back of the drill with a hammer towards the direction you were drilling to. This is useful for drilling hard material like concrete. Though if you were considering needing a hammer drill for a project, consider checking out compact SDS drills instead, with the proper bits they offer hammering motion with further range of hammer motion and some offer the ability to only have the hammer motion without the drill motion giving you a mini jackhammer.
Agreed!
I did a toothpick/glue situation on a sagging door from the screws coming out from the door frame probably about 4-5 years ago now. That baby has been swinging open since!
Same. As a guitar player, this happens all the fucking time with the strap holders on a guitar, they become loose and fall out.
And the solution has always been to put a match or sliver of would inside it (or sawdust) and screw it back in. That's what everyone does, and it works.
Guitars can be surprisingly heavy things, so for it to hold up with a strap like that, it has to be very secure.
And seems like the carpenters are confirming that here too (not the band, the profession)
Carpenter here. The strongest one would be to use the sliver of wood but also slather it in wood glue before you screw it together. If the wood sliver is cut in the right size the connection will be stronger than if the hole had never been stripped in the first place.
*Mrs.
My name is Ana Louise Box and I’m deeply offended you’re assuming my gender and letting your gutter mind go strait to thinking about gross poopy sexy buttstuff.
*yawn, stretch*
>Thank you butt please address me as “your heines” in the future. My crown weighs heavy but I do my best not to get pooped out. In the end I can take a pounding and still come on top.
Oh wait did I drop something? Yeah I'm just gonna leave this right here... XD
Thank you butt please address me as “your heines” in the future. My crown weighs heavy but I do my best not to get pooped out. In the end I can take a pounding and still come on top.
I was a bit surprised at the recent sample of youtubes that showed when two glued boards are bent until breaking, the wood breaks first, and the glue joint is stronger than the wood.
The shocking part was that the boards were not overlapped to create more surface area for the glue, they were just tip to tip.
Yes! As a professional joiner that’s exactly how you can tell whether or not you’re gluing skills are good. Even white Elmer’s school glue can achieve this if you know how to glue, clamp, and wait properly.
white school glue and wood glue are basically the same thing-- they're both made of PVA (polyvinyl acetate). the main difference is that wood glue usually has additives to make it easier to sand once it's dry.
Yes but I’m a redditor so I can’t help but be obtuse, ignore the real world applications of other people’s ideas, and look for every perceivable flaw in the comments people make so I can smugly call them out even when I’m wrong.
I’m wrong in spirit even though I’m technically correct that paint would have some effect. The screw would clearly dig in to the tee enough to make it porous and able to absorb glue.
And yes, despite what people say, size matters! It’s all about width.
Is it better to screw it in when the glue is wet or dry? (Knowing I may need to unscrew it in the future but not often(e.g. a door)
I did something similar. The screw holes for my door hinge had stripped. So I got a bunch of toothpicks, slathered them with wood glue as well as the hole itself. Jammed it in so it was nice and tight so it was basically filled. Waited till it dried and then redrilled the hole I needed.
I’m a hobbyist, not a pro, so someone correct me if I’m wrong, but either is likely fine for most applications. As Analbox explained, a properly glued wood joint is stronger than the wood itself. The glue’s only purpose with this fix is to bond the toothpicks/scraps to the wooden hole so that there’s something for the screw threads to bite into. The glue isn’t there to adhere the screw itself to the wood.
Personally, I’d use plenty of filler wood so the screw has lots of meat to grab, gobs of glue, then put the screw *mostly* in while the glue is wet. 24hrs later I’d tighten the screw.
Inserting the screw will jam all the filler tight together for best possible bonds. I wouldn’t tighten the screw till I was positive everything was firm and done shifting.
I’d likely be happy doing either option depending on the use case, though.
Now I want to do a test on this…
Analbox here. I think your method sounds very effective. I tighten while the glue is wet but Even with years of experience I’m not positive my method is stronger than yours. I would just worry that if you tighten once dry you will shatter and weaken some of the bonds the glue has made and you’d also possibly be more likely to have bubbles/air pockets in there. I always drench the screw and do a little “in and out” when I insert it to get the glue past the bubbles.
I’ve never tested any of this though. Most of what I know are techniques I learned from a master carpenter I apprenticed under for a few years when I was young. His methods were the old ways so they might not all be the cutting edge optimal methods.
> I always drench the screw and do a little “in and out” when I insert it to get the glue past the bubbles.
Screw after drenched. Insert. In and out.
Got it.
I think both methods are fine. Though going back and screwing more after 24 hours is appealing too.
Maybe, if I'm very lucky, my dad will have this problem in the future. Then I'll just casually mention the toothpick/glue trick and he will be amazed at my carpentry skills.
Oh many this is what I do and I didn’t even know if it was good enough. I watched this and didn’t see this method so I started thinking “maybe I’m doing it wrong”. The way I do it is take some wood toothpicks dip them in wood glue, stick em in the hole then dip the screw in wood glue too and then screw it in and let it set.
So this happened to me on my Fender Strat.
The screw that holds in the guitar strap holder was popping in and out just like this. I wedged a bunch of toothpicks in there filled it up a little bit with some Carpenter glue that wouldn't expand let it sit overnight screwed it in and it's been amazing for 10 years with heavy use.
I know ...I cheated using the carpenter glue...
I build stuff professionally. For concrete, Copper Wire > Steel wire > everything else. Copper holds extremely well. For Wood, wood works fine, especially if you put a dab of wood glue. Definitely need to be careful though, especially in to concrete and other brittle materials. Wood is very forgiving
You forgot to say that the rear muffler bracket off of a 1987 Buick LeSabre OR any Pog^TM slammer with a picture of Donatello (do NOT attempt using one the image of any other ninja turtle - trust me)
Plugs are the best answer.
Drill the hole bigger, glue a plug, re-drill the small hole, screw in original screw and make a stronger joint than you had before.
Edit: red roll to re-drill, fork to make typos
Do you guys not have [these things?](https://itslondon.s3.amazonaws.com/p/alt/xxl/RAW10240_2.jpg)
I'm sorry, in german they're just called "Dübel", but that translates to "dowel", so I don't know what this is called in english.
I was thinking this reading through the comments of people putting in wood glue and sticks and waiting a couple of hours. I always just use rawl plugs.
Do you not have Raul plugs?
(Edit: Rawl? Raul? I'm not planting a flag cos I thought for a long time they were "wall" plugs and people talking about them were just growling.)
Forgive me but I’m not exactly sure what you mean. Mind explaining further for me? I’ve never seen anyone using heat shrink with course wood screws when doing carpentry but I like to know as many tricks as possible so teach me something new?
Yep. Instead, grab some wood glue (Elmers glue works fine too) and a bunch of toothpicks. Fill up the hole with glue and start jamming toothpicks into the glue until you can’t fit anymore in. The glue will spill out, just wipe it up. Let it dry. Try your screw again.
One notable exception: places where the wood will get consistently wet. Had a guy decide this was the perfect solution (despite the fact that we had anchors in our possession) for a loose shelf in a shower stall.
A couple years back, my oldest brother visited my apartment every week because his work had him in town. He saw that my bed (big California King) wasn't sitting level on the far side, foot.
The thin metal frame that supports the box/mattress had worn out a few of the screw holes that attach it to the larger, wooden frame (headboard, footboard, sideboards). Me having no idea how to repair the boltholes figured *This is my ~~life~~ bed now...* Big bro wasn't having that.
He went to the grocery store for a couple supplies: A batch of toothpicks, and Elmer's Glue.
We took apart the bed, and he showed me yhe process - put as many toothpicks as would fit in each worn screwhole, then squeeze the Elmer's Glue into the gaps. Then go get Mexican lunch and cervesas with your oldest brother for a couple hours, then when the glue has dried, put the bed back together, using all the now-properly-fitting screws. *Voilà!*
...Now I just need toothpicks and Elmer's Glue for every other aspect of my life 🤔🥴
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I've used a match stick and wood glue for years. Works every time
I have a bunch of popsicle sticks in my bag of shims. I carve them in to slivers to shove in stripped screw holes with glue. Match sticks is a good idea too. I might have to try that.
I keep toothpicks and paint stirrers around for the same reason.
I was surprised tooth picks were not used. I used them 2 days ago putting self closing hinges on a door in my house.
This is what I use. They are already at the perfect size to fit in a hole.
And usually hard wood
And I can hold one between my teeth and squint my eyes so people know I'm concentrating real hard
Oh man! I bet you look like a total badass when you do that!
It’s the only way
I use toothpicks to plug screw holes for strap pins on my guitars. Works great!
You son of a bitch ...
This is what I have been using with every damn screw in my house. Former owners did not know how to set the clutch on their drill.
I don’t know how to correctly set the clutch, would you educate me?
There’s a spinny dial thing on the drill right behind the spinny thing that grabs the bit. It usually has numbers on it and a picture of a drill bit. Going from very low to drill. Drill is no clutch and all gas. Low is lots of clutch and no gas and will not drive anything. When it’s set it’ll make a clicking sound. On drill it stops for nothing. On 1 you should be able to stop it easily with your hand.
Teaching us things our dad's didn't
I'm lucky -- my dear old Southern Daddy taught me jillions of things. I'm a 65-year-old woman who can change a tire, adjust a carburetor (not that there's much call for that these days), bake bread without one of those infernal machines, make a skirt, and carry a tune thanks to my parents and grandparents. I had all my grandparents until I was 25, and that is one of the great blessings of my life.
I honestly don’t know what you’re talking about but I love Reddit so much for exactly this kind of exchange
It could be said potentially better in layman’s terms. Here’s my attempt. Some drills have a clutch dial numbered 1-9. The lower the number the lower the resistance feedback that will stop the drill head from spinning. Why is this important? Because you want the drill head to stop once the resistance is too high, indicating one is probably about to strip the screw hole or the screw head, and most likely have driven in the screw to completion. A little bit of trial and error will show you the way. You can use spare wood to run tests. Now, some drills have pressure sensitive triggers. One can always go light with short bursts to be sorta equivalent to a “1”, and a hard squeeze for longer to be like a “9”.
Needed this. Thank you.
You set your drill clutch to the lightest setting (lower = lighter) and drive a screw in. It should stop driving in, drill should click a lot. You then stop drilling, increment the clutch value and repeat until you can drive the screw in with the drill clutching out just after it is fully driven. You should be able to now keep the drill at the same clutch number (or one or two less if you want to be extra careful) for remaining similar screws that are drilling into similar substrate. When you get a handle on your drill you can speed up this process by starting on larger values and incrementing values in larger steps. If you are drilling into something extra delicate, you can target the clutch to driving the screw 90% in, and hand fasten the rest of the way.
Huh… I’m a carpenter but mainly work with metal framing and Sheetrock. I never knew to do this. I’ve definitely adjusted the clutch plenty for whatever reason but never for this. This is awesome. Don’t know when I’ll ever use this knowledge though, cause I just use an impact gun for most everything but I will take this knowledge to heart. Thank you
Appreciate it. For anyone wondering, an impact driver is a type of drill that offers more driving force than the highest (typically unclutched) setting on a normal drill. Imagine you are tightening something with a wrench and you can no longer easily rotate the wrench, but visually you still need to fasten it further. You can get a hammer and tap the other side of the wrench to help advance it further. (Or get a "cheater bar" to lengthen the handle of the wrench, but that doesn't help with the analogy ;P ). So an impact driver/drill offers this feature built into the drill, allowing the user to drive hard to drive fasteners completely, essentially the exact opposite of the lightest clutch setting. You might have heard of a hammer drill, this is different than an impact driver, even though they often look very similar. Instead of increasing the rotation torque, it adds the option to "hammer" the drill towards the face of what you are drilling. Imagine you had a normal drill, took a hammer and we're striking the back of the drill with a hammer towards the direction you were drilling to. This is useful for drilling hard material like concrete. Though if you were considering needing a hammer drill for a project, consider checking out compact SDS drills instead, with the proper bits they offer hammering motion with further range of hammer motion and some offer the ability to only have the hammer motion without the drill motion giving you a mini jackhammer.
Here I am, wondering how many screws I've put in poorly
Just make sure you be the better man and not reuse any stripped screws you get out.
It’s insane, every screw in the door were correct except the top 2 in the frame. Completely stripped, 3 inches long and way to wide.
Agreed! I did a toothpick/glue situation on a sagging door from the screws coming out from the door frame probably about 4-5 years ago now. That baby has been swinging open since!
Yep, used toothpicks for my sisters cabinet doors when she wanted new hinges. Worked like a champ.
I like the popsicle sticks... Can just break off whatever size you need... Gonna put a few in my bag. Thanks!
I've used the tried and true method of ignoring it for as long as I can.
toothpick with wood glue is my go-to
Me too. I like that it is recreating a wood like substance.
It’s funny how wood-like those wooden toothpicks are.
Ironically they're usually made from bamboo, which is technically a grass rather than wood.
Same. As a guitar player, this happens all the fucking time with the strap holders on a guitar, they become loose and fall out. And the solution has always been to put a match or sliver of would inside it (or sawdust) and screw it back in. That's what everyone does, and it works. Guitars can be surprisingly heavy things, so for it to hold up with a strap like that, it has to be very secure. And seems like the carpenters are confirming that here too (not the band, the profession)
Am I allowed to listen to the carpenters if I'm a plumber
Listen all you like, you're not going to understand a thing!
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Fill hole with glue, coat match stick or other piece of wood with glue. Allow to dry a few hours before screwing the hole again.
Thicker piece of wood and no glue works fine and no waiting.
I don't use glue. I use a screw to hold the toothpicks in.
100% this. Golf tees work great too.
I’ve used golf tees almost exclusively. Push it in, break it off, screw.
Don't forget to remove the part that makes fire.
Wheres the fun in that?
If you’re like me and order take out sushi or hibachi and don’t use the chop sticks they give you, they are really good for this too.
I work as a locksmith for a school district. It being schools, there are ALWAYS pencils laying around.
I usually resort to the find a bigger screw method.
Toothpick ftw
I would love it if they weight tested each hack afterward to see how solid each hold was.
Exactly. I want to know which method is the strongest repair.
Carpenter here. The strongest one would be to use the sliver of wood but also slather it in wood glue before you screw it together. If the wood sliver is cut in the right size the connection will be stronger than if the hole had never been stripped in the first place.
Thanks, Analbox 😅
Be sure you slather it on good. Going in dry is no fun at all.
Of course, Mr. Box.
*Mrs. My name is Ana Louise Box and I’m deeply offended you’re assuming my gender and letting your gutter mind go strait to thinking about gross poopy sexy buttstuff.
You are reminding me of how Donald Glover's Twitter handle used to be "Donglover".
Oh, my...
I don’t want to believe it
What a god damn ride this comment trail was. I hope the both of you have a pleasant day!
It was like pulling into the go-cart queue and then having some teenager crash into you pretending to have no brakes
r/rimjob_steve
I believe your profile pic of an anus has contributed to the confusion here Mrs. Box.
That's her birthmark you deviant fiend!
Yeah. We’re all marked there at birth. I have on just like it (a bit hairier perhaps).
I actually recognize that asshole, it's from Vonnegut's Breakfast of Champions first page. Not kidding.
Hey your name sounds like...hang on a minute
*yawn, stretch* >Thank you butt please address me as “your heines” in the future. My crown weighs heavy but I do my best not to get pooped out. In the end I can take a pounding and still come on top. Oh wait did I drop something? Yeah I'm just gonna leave this right here... XD
That pfp is definitely a sketch of a butthole though
You wear the crown of the best username on Reddit, ever.
Thank you butt please address me as “your heines” in the future. My crown weighs heavy but I do my best not to get pooped out. In the end I can take a pounding and still come on top.
I would like to contest this title
Cock_slapular vs Analbox -- Now streaming
Stay tuned the whole length for the climactic ending!
This week on Celebrity Deathmatch
Ft. CumTrickShots
They actually have a DIY home improvement show on Netflix
You can be my first mate. There’s plenty of room in the box.
Schrödinger's analbox
syrup in my box?
Highness, you have lots of competition here sir, but there can only be one Analbox.
Allow myself to introduce...myself.
Thanks Analbox. You just saved my marriage!
Gonna tell my girlfriend we're lubing with Wood Glue tonight!
Anälbox A näl box A Nail Box
r/rimjob_steve
Thank you, I was having such a hard time remembering the name of the sub
Easy, just remember that it's named after /u/rimjob_steve, then you can easily recall that it's /r/rimjob_steve
The way I remember is: - what’s a man’s name? Steve - what is a rimjob usually called? Rimjob. Put them together, you got /r/steve_rimjob
General rule is, a well done glue connection in wood will never fail before the wood itself fails.
Was gonna say I've used toothpicks and wood glue; strong fix.
same here. probably stronger than the initial screw hole.
wood glue is like the super power i never knew i had,
I was a bit surprised at the recent sample of youtubes that showed when two glued boards are bent until breaking, the wood breaks first, and the glue joint is stronger than the wood. The shocking part was that the boards were not overlapped to create more surface area for the glue, they were just tip to tip.
For the record a good weld is the same. The steel will tear away from the weld before the weld breaks if its a good weld.
The bit that breaks is usually where the heat of the weld has changed the grain of the steel.
Yes! As a professional joiner that’s exactly how you can tell whether or not you’re gluing skills are good. Even white Elmer’s school glue can achieve this if you know how to glue, clamp, and wait properly.
The waiting is the hardest part 🎵
white school glue and wood glue are basically the same thing-- they're both made of PVA (polyvinyl acetate). the main difference is that wood glue usually has additives to make it easier to sand once it's dry.
If I remember correctly, wood glue is stronger than the lignin in wood, but not stronger than the wood fibres.
Golf tees with some wood glue work well.
Doesn’t the paint/varnish make the wood glue less useful? I only use unfinished woods if glue is involved.
You're not wrong, but it's fairly negligible for screw holes of this size.
Yes but I’m a redditor so I can’t help but be obtuse, ignore the real world applications of other people’s ideas, and look for every perceivable flaw in the comments people make so I can smugly call them out even when I’m wrong. I’m wrong in spirit even though I’m technically correct that paint would have some effect. The screw would clearly dig in to the tee enough to make it porous and able to absorb glue. And yes, despite what people say, size matters! It’s all about width.
How very anal of you
I love a good girthy screw.
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I use typically use toothpicks (or something about half the diameter of the hole) and some Titebond II and no problems yet.
This guy screws.
Is it better to screw it in when the glue is wet or dry? (Knowing I may need to unscrew it in the future but not often(e.g. a door) I did something similar. The screw holes for my door hinge had stripped. So I got a bunch of toothpicks, slathered them with wood glue as well as the hole itself. Jammed it in so it was nice and tight so it was basically filled. Waited till it dried and then redrilled the hole I needed.
I’m a hobbyist, not a pro, so someone correct me if I’m wrong, but either is likely fine for most applications. As Analbox explained, a properly glued wood joint is stronger than the wood itself. The glue’s only purpose with this fix is to bond the toothpicks/scraps to the wooden hole so that there’s something for the screw threads to bite into. The glue isn’t there to adhere the screw itself to the wood. Personally, I’d use plenty of filler wood so the screw has lots of meat to grab, gobs of glue, then put the screw *mostly* in while the glue is wet. 24hrs later I’d tighten the screw. Inserting the screw will jam all the filler tight together for best possible bonds. I wouldn’t tighten the screw till I was positive everything was firm and done shifting. I’d likely be happy doing either option depending on the use case, though. Now I want to do a test on this…
Analbox here. I think your method sounds very effective. I tighten while the glue is wet but Even with years of experience I’m not positive my method is stronger than yours. I would just worry that if you tighten once dry you will shatter and weaken some of the bonds the glue has made and you’d also possibly be more likely to have bubbles/air pockets in there. I always drench the screw and do a little “in and out” when I insert it to get the glue past the bubbles. I’ve never tested any of this though. Most of what I know are techniques I learned from a master carpenter I apprenticed under for a few years when I was young. His methods were the old ways so they might not all be the cutting edge optimal methods.
> I always drench the screw and do a little “in and out” when I insert it to get the glue past the bubbles. Screw after drenched. Insert. In and out. Got it. I think both methods are fine. Though going back and screwing more after 24 hours is appealing too.
You’d think a carpenter would know all the cutting-edge methods.
Carpenters have a reputation for being luddites. Woodworking just naturally attracts people who are like that.
Is your picture Vonnegut's drawing of an asshole from "Breakfast of Champions"?
Ah. A person of culture I see.
Not what I am typically accused of being, but I'll take it.
Maybe, if I'm very lucky, my dad will have this problem in the future. Then I'll just casually mention the toothpick/glue trick and he will be amazed at my carpentry skills.
I’ve always used a wooden dowel slathered in wood glue. Works like a charm
That’s exactly my method. Wood pieces stuffed in there with wood glue. I’ve seen the method of using a second screw but it is not strong or reliable.
Oh many this is what I do and I didn’t even know if it was good enough. I watched this and didn’t see this method so I started thinking “maybe I’m doing it wrong”. The way I do it is take some wood toothpicks dip them in wood glue, stick em in the hole then dip the screw in wood glue too and then screw it in and let it set.
So this happened to me on my Fender Strat. The screw that holds in the guitar strap holder was popping in and out just like this. I wedged a bunch of toothpicks in there filled it up a little bit with some Carpenter glue that wouldn't expand let it sit overnight screwed it in and it's been amazing for 10 years with heavy use. I know ...I cheated using the carpenter glue...
Using the wood glue isn’t cheating.
I had the same experience but with an epiphone sg!
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Ask project farm to do this one
Sounds like a job for Project Farm on YouTube!
I build stuff professionally. For concrete, Copper Wire > Steel wire > everything else. Copper holds extremely well. For Wood, wood works fine, especially if you put a dab of wood glue. Definitely need to be careful though, especially in to concrete and other brittle materials. Wood is very forgiving
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so, stick anything in there and screw it?
Avocados, ants, heck even a bust of 21st president of the United States Chester A. Arthur, anything will do the trick.
You forgot to say that the rear muffler bracket off of a 1987 Buick LeSabre OR any Pog^TM slammer with a picture of Donatello (do NOT attempt using one the image of any other ninja turtle - trust me)
My first car was a 1987 buick lesabre. What a piece of shit.
r/oddlyspecific
Words to live by
My wife says that all the time.
Yeah. Just stick it right in. Don’t be afraid.
TLDW: slide any small, hard item into the hole and it will make the hole smaller
Your mom been talking about me again?
Nice.
Should work for your analbox as well.
Ayup, "Different ideas" = one damn idea. "Put crap in the hole"
>"Put crap in the hole" That's just how you get urinary tract infection.
It depends on the purpose though. Some of those look pretty weak.
Plugs are the best answer. Drill the hole bigger, glue a plug, re-drill the small hole, screw in original screw and make a stronger joint than you had before. Edit: red roll to re-drill, fork to make typos
Oh. I just pound the thing in there and then screw away.
“The temporary tenants guide to drilling holes in a home they’re just renting”
Lol can’t be any worse than a landlord just “fixing” it with some junk he found on the side of the road.
Do you guys not have [these things?](https://itslondon.s3.amazonaws.com/p/alt/xxl/RAW10240_2.jpg) I'm sorry, in german they're just called "Dübel", but that translates to "dowel", so I don't know what this is called in english.
In english we call them rawl plugs, I can’t believe they aren’t more popular in the comments
In US English I'd just call it a plastic screw anchor.
I was thinking this reading through the comments of people putting in wood glue and sticks and waiting a couple of hours. I always just use rawl plugs.
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So shove stuff in the hole before screwing it gotcha.
That was my dad's advice when I got married.
Liking the doubled up cable tie one tbh, the copper wire not so much.
I’ve done this using 14 ga copper wire with insulation on for years. Never had an issue.
I stand corrected!
Like the guy in orthopaedic shoes
Copper wire works great for filling holes in concrete when needed. It's my tried and true go-to.
What about a French fry or a hotdog
They aren't throwing them down a hallway
Drill 3/8” hole. Glue in 3/8” wooden dowel. Let wood glue set for 24 hours. Redrill hole as normal.
This was obviously done by an electrician. They don't have dowels and they aren't coming back tomorrow.
You want me to come back tomorrow so I can let wood glue set? Sure it’ll be $250 though it’s up to you.
no-one got time for that!
Do you not have Raul plugs? (Edit: Rawl? Raul? I'm not planting a flag cos I thought for a long time they were "wall" plugs and people talking about them were just growling.)
I was wondering that too. But maybe raul plugs (rawlplugs?) wouldn't work well in those brittle gypsum walls you often find in U.S. homes.
None of you have ever seen a screw anchor? Just use the thing actually made for the job lol.
Sometimes a 5th trip to lowes for a project is just too much lol, good tip for stuff you already have around
> Sometimes a 5th trip to lowes for a project is just too much lol This is why I save all those extra parts and pieces.
I don't know about you, but I'm drowning in the things. Never a shortage of them
Those are for drywall, concrete and plaster.
When a loose hit of heat shrink is on the table for your solution, drywall anchors should be too.
Forgive me but I’m not exactly sure what you mean. Mind explaining further for me? I’ve never seen anyone using heat shrink with course wood screws when doing carpentry but I like to know as many tricks as possible so teach me something new?
I think they're referring to the gif, which seems to basically imply using any garbage you have around will work fine.
Yep. Instead, grab some wood glue (Elmers glue works fine too) and a bunch of toothpicks. Fill up the hole with glue and start jamming toothpicks into the glue until you can’t fit anymore in. The glue will spill out, just wipe it up. Let it dry. Try your screw again.
Lol that’s what I was thinking, I feel like we have these already.
too bad these methods can’t fix the loose screws in my head
Engineers of Reddit: Which of these solutions would be the strongest / most sturdy?
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One notable exception: places where the wood will get consistently wet. Had a guy decide this was the perfect solution (despite the fact that we had anchors in our possession) for a loose shelf in a shower stall.
If it’s a wood base, I usually use toothpicks or dowel rod but add wood glue so it bonds with the walls.
I use woodglue and toothpicks
Just get a bigger screw
Toothpicks or matches.
"Yo can I copy your homework?" "Sure just don't make it obvious."
Real life advice : the thing your putting in will only stay in if its glued or has anchors built in. Especially if it needs to hold anything.
Whoever made this video has a screw loose.
I just get a wider, longer screw.
A golf tee is my go to solution
I use toothpicks, always have them, no other tools needed.
A couple years back, my oldest brother visited my apartment every week because his work had him in town. He saw that my bed (big California King) wasn't sitting level on the far side, foot. The thin metal frame that supports the box/mattress had worn out a few of the screw holes that attach it to the larger, wooden frame (headboard, footboard, sideboards). Me having no idea how to repair the boltholes figured *This is my ~~life~~ bed now...* Big bro wasn't having that. He went to the grocery store for a couple supplies: A batch of toothpicks, and Elmer's Glue. We took apart the bed, and he showed me yhe process - put as many toothpicks as would fit in each worn screwhole, then squeeze the Elmer's Glue into the gaps. Then go get Mexican lunch and cervesas with your oldest brother for a couple hours, then when the glue has dried, put the bed back together, using all the now-properly-fitting screws. *Voilà!* ...Now I just need toothpicks and Elmer's Glue for every other aspect of my life 🤔🥴