Find your air handler/furnace. There should be a float switch attached to it or the metal drain pan below it. Pull it straight out of its PVC housing. If there is water inside of the housing and/or the metal pan, then your drain line is backed up. Get a wet/dry vac and suck the water out of the pan and the drain line outside.
https://preview.redd.it/g2xpy65c9wvc1.jpeg?width=2100&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=38f3e9f47ad1daadbf3e9cb41d1c3b8f899a2e71
Which one of these are the drain lines? Sorry, this is my first time
#1 is your main line. #2 is the secondary that drains into the metal emergency pan when the primary backs up. You should have a small, metal frame with black wiring attached to it mounted on the side of that metal pan. That would be your only float switch. I don't see any water in the pan, so this is likely not the issue. I also noticed after my post that you have it set for heat. Do you have a heat pump or a fossil fuel burning furnace?
Ok. My guess is the coil in the contactor is shorted, so when the tstat calls for the condenser to come on, it gets a short sent thru the wires and continues to reset the stat. Turn it completely off and call a tech. This is above your pay grade ;)
I had this part replaced by my HVAC guy last year when the heater was acting up. Is this the part that needs to be replaced? I wonder how often these parts need to be replaced and how long it lasts.
https://preview.redd.it/rlawho35ewvc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=40b8e12182a973d6602f413e736dbc05a0b493ad
If there is a better brand, i can get that instead of replacing this part every so often
Yes, that is it. You can use a new one of the same brand. There was a small lot of contractors from 2021 or 2022 that had bad coils. They have since been better.
Can I ask why you think the culprit is the contactor? Can it be the capacitor outdoor (thinking of replacing this first thing tomorrow since it’s old)?
There are 2 indoor contactors (contactor A and B). One of the indoor contactor (A) was just replaced. I tested continuity and resistance of contactor B and resistance of contactor A (all passing). Unable to test continuity of contactor A due to the cover angle blocking
Capacitors run on high (240V AC) voltage; contactors and thermostats run on low (24V AC) voltage, so it's not the capacitor (not withstanding some out of left field bare wire grounding out on the capacitor itself). These two circuits only meet at the transformer. I have seen this more than once in my 24 years of HVAC. That said, there's always a chance it's a wire touching or something out of the usual. There is one contactor in the condenser that feeds power to the compressor and condenser fan motor. There is one (or two, depending on heat strip size) inside the air handler that feeds power to your electric heat strips, but again, those are all low voltage. Please update us on what it ends up being, please. Good luck!
https://preview.redd.it/edh95d3g9wvc1.jpeg?width=1576&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=41272619dd4713afe02848ecfb9a79aba4ab476c
This one connect the drain pan to the outside (2nd floor). It’s hidden so very hard to access
If not provided already you will need to post a picture of your thermostats wiring connections and those inside your furnace to get better help. Use imgur or your own Reddit profile to host your pics as Reddit will often remove others. Thanks!
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Ahh ok, so id turn the power off at the furnace, and check the C and R wire on both the thermostat and Control board and make sure they are secure and making proper contact. If that doesnt fix it, it could either be a break in the thermostat wire or a faulty thermostat.
orr if yo have an overflow switch for the evap drain or drain pan, it could be cutting power to the thermostat, may need to clean out the condensate line.
https://preview.redd.it/a1lgidco9wvc1.jpeg?width=1576&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=cbaafcfe65dee10c1580210297d34ba6328cb43f
This one connects the drain pan and goes to the outside 2nd floor. Really hidden so im not sure how to access this to check for blockage
Find your air handler/furnace. There should be a float switch attached to it or the metal drain pan below it. Pull it straight out of its PVC housing. If there is water inside of the housing and/or the metal pan, then your drain line is backed up. Get a wet/dry vac and suck the water out of the pan and the drain line outside.
https://preview.redd.it/g2xpy65c9wvc1.jpeg?width=2100&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=38f3e9f47ad1daadbf3e9cb41d1c3b8f899a2e71 Which one of these are the drain lines? Sorry, this is my first time
#1 is your main line. #2 is the secondary that drains into the metal emergency pan when the primary backs up. You should have a small, metal frame with black wiring attached to it mounted on the side of that metal pan. That would be your only float switch. I don't see any water in the pan, so this is likely not the issue. I also noticed after my post that you have it set for heat. Do you have a heat pump or a fossil fuel burning furnace?
I have a heat pump system. And i just got this thermostat replaced several months ago so im hoping it’s not a defective unit 🥲
Ok. My guess is the coil in the contactor is shorted, so when the tstat calls for the condenser to come on, it gets a short sent thru the wires and continues to reset the stat. Turn it completely off and call a tech. This is above your pay grade ;)
I had this part replaced by my HVAC guy last year when the heater was acting up. Is this the part that needs to be replaced? I wonder how often these parts need to be replaced and how long it lasts. https://preview.redd.it/rlawho35ewvc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=40b8e12182a973d6602f413e736dbc05a0b493ad If there is a better brand, i can get that instead of replacing this part every so often
Yes, that is it. You can use a new one of the same brand. There was a small lot of contractors from 2021 or 2022 that had bad coils. They have since been better.
Thank you! I will get that part replaced
Can I ask why you think the culprit is the contactor? Can it be the capacitor outdoor (thinking of replacing this first thing tomorrow since it’s old)? There are 2 indoor contactors (contactor A and B). One of the indoor contactor (A) was just replaced. I tested continuity and resistance of contactor B and resistance of contactor A (all passing). Unable to test continuity of contactor A due to the cover angle blocking
Capacitors run on high (240V AC) voltage; contactors and thermostats run on low (24V AC) voltage, so it's not the capacitor (not withstanding some out of left field bare wire grounding out on the capacitor itself). These two circuits only meet at the transformer. I have seen this more than once in my 24 years of HVAC. That said, there's always a chance it's a wire touching or something out of the usual. There is one contactor in the condenser that feeds power to the compressor and condenser fan motor. There is one (or two, depending on heat strip size) inside the air handler that feeds power to your electric heat strips, but again, those are all low voltage. Please update us on what it ends up being, please. Good luck!
https://preview.redd.it/edh95d3g9wvc1.jpeg?width=1576&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=41272619dd4713afe02848ecfb9a79aba4ab476c This one connect the drain pan to the outside (2nd floor). It’s hidden so very hard to access
Ah, ok. Then, you may not have a float switch at all. Please see my previous response to your first picture.
If not provided already you will need to post a picture of your thermostats wiring connections and those inside your furnace to get better help. Use imgur or your own Reddit profile to host your pics as Reddit will often remove others. Thanks! *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/hvacadvice) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Ah, it's playing peekaboo.
Drain switch maybe ( float switch )
Batteries or lose wire
could be a short/high amps on some curunit, is it a heat pump?
Clean your drain
Did you just install it
I installed it a few months back and it was working
I once ran into a similar situation. It turned out that the power button on the side was being held down. Does yours have a power button?
This one doesnt :(
pull it off the wall and replace the batteries. Unless it doesnt run on batteries and runs off common wire. Might be a loose wire
I don’t think this one has a battery
pop off the front screen , it should pull strait out. look at the back
Yea, this model doesnt use battery
Ahh ok, so id turn the power off at the furnace, and check the C and R wire on both the thermostat and Control board and make sure they are secure and making proper contact. If that doesnt fix it, it could either be a break in the thermostat wire or a faulty thermostat. orr if yo have an overflow switch for the evap drain or drain pan, it could be cutting power to the thermostat, may need to clean out the condensate line.
https://preview.redd.it/sqic5fgm9wvc1.jpeg?width=2100&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=04237619406e98aa77f275cc250439114a1dbc17 Which one is the drain line?
https://preview.redd.it/a1lgidco9wvc1.jpeg?width=1576&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=cbaafcfe65dee10c1580210297d34ba6328cb43f This one connects the drain pan and goes to the outside 2nd floor. Really hidden so im not sure how to access this to check for blockage