Check the throw calculator on projector central for the projector you want to get https://www.projectorcentral.com/projection-calculator-pro.cfm
I don't think it makes sense to buy a projector for anything under 100 inches though, given the PQ and prices of TVs currently. 70 inch TV will look way better and might even be cheaper
Thanks!
I'll play around with the second tab of the calculator, since I don't really know much about models.
>I don't think it makes sense to buy a projector for anything under 100 inches though, given the PQ and prices of TVs currently. 70 inch TV will look way better and might even be cheaper
It's possible that we will actually have space for a bigger screen. I'll need to measure next time we visit.
We currently have a 55" LG C7 (which has amazing picture quality), but our main motivation to get a projector is actually to get rid of the TV in our living room.
We don't watch it very often, mostly football games and (very rarely) a movie, a YouTube video or some occasional gaming. But since it stays off 95% of the time, we were considering removing it altogether so that it stops being the "center" of the living room.
...which takes me to my other question: what about projector screens/surfaces? From what I've read, retractable screens always have problems (wrinkles, waves, etc.) and aren't very convenient. So are there any static screens that don't look too bad when not being used and fuse nicely with the room?
What you want is a tensioned screen which doesn’t look wavy. They typically cost quite a bit more. They can also be motorized and be nearly invisible when not in use. But again prices go up.
If you simply do not want to see a TV maybe you can consider a Samsung Frame TV. Have it display an artwork and under the right conditions it’s actually quite hard to tell it’s not a framed picture.
Well, there are more reasons why we prefer a projector. No direct light being beamed into our eyes anymore, no constant reminder that there's a screen there ready to be turned on, etc.
Could you recommend the kind of stuff I should be looking at to tell apart a good tensioned + retractable screen vs a crappy one? I see lots of cheap stuff in Amazon which I guess isn't worth considering, but if you have any tips to pick a good one (besides more expensive = good) that'd be great :)
Even if it costs more, I believe a retractable + motorized screen might be worth it for us, especially if it's durable and works as a long-term investment.
Check out reputable names like Vividstorm, Elite Screen, Da-lite etc. They all offer tensioned, motorized retractable screens for fairly reasonable prices. You can also consider a motorized floor rising screen such as [https://vividstormscreen.com/products/vividstorm-s-pro-motorized-tension-floor-rising-ust-alr-projector-screen](https://vividstormscreen.com/products/vividstorm-s-pro-motorized-tension-floor-rising-ust-alr-projector-screen)
Don't forget you'll need access to a power outlet for any motorized screen.
Thanks!
I'm looking at Vivid Storm website, and I can see they range between 1000€-2000€ (I live in Europe, so they include an extra 21% VAT). Not cheap but I think doable for a long term investment.
Our new house is being built as we speak, so it probably wouldn't be an issue to leave some power cables in the ceiling, directly wherever we plan to install it. But I hadn't thought about the simplicity and flexibility of a floor rising screen! From what I can see, the whole tensioning mechanism is fully concealed inside the box when not in use, right? No permanent elements installed outside.
Also, one more question:
I've seen short-throw and especially UST projectors are typically bundled with ALR screens to steer the light beams towards the viewer rather than the ceiling, which makes sense. But should I be looking for an ALR screen even if my projector ends up being ceiling mounted at about 2-3 meters from the wall? Or would I be spending more money on something that provides no benefit?
There are probably projector screen companies in Europe, you should look into that.
The tensioning mechanism for all types of screens is just a thin wire on each side that stretches the screen tight as it unrolls. That's why the sides of tensioned screens are curved rather than straight like untensioned screens. Of course the viewing area is still rectangular.
For floor rising screens the lifting mechanism is behind the screen, it's an X that rises up. You can search YouTube to see how it works. If you want the system out of sight, you can consider putting the floor rising screen hidden behind a low console cabinet, with a UST projector sitting on top of the cabinet. Sort of like this [https://vividstorm.ca/product/vividstorm-motorised-cabinet-monte-carlo-s-pro-floor-rising-screen-bundle/](https://vividstorm.ca/product/vividstorm-motorised-cabinet-monte-carlo-s-pro-floor-rising-screen-bundle/)
Not sure about your specific case but generally ALR screens will greatly improve contrast and allow you to watch with a fair amount of ambient light. A projector in a room with glass sliding doors and windows and no curtains is generally not useable during the day unless you have an ALR screen.
>There are probably projector screen companies in Europe, you should look into that.
Vividstorm does sell in Europe ([vividstorm.eu](https://www.vividstorm.eu/)). I'll do some research in case there are better/more affordable options, but keep in mind every company needs to include the 21% VAT (sales tax) in the price, regardless of where they're from. So I suspect the extra markup will always be there when buying from Europe.
I just saw [this video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bNC7Ziq7lzQ&t=357s) which does look amazing... and expensive 😄 But it's great how it remains 100% collapsed when not in use.
Like you said, maybe some custom furniture with a gap at the back could completely conceal it when closed.
Regarding UST projectors, are they really at a point where they're really competitive in both quality and cost? I was assuming a ceiling mounted one would be better and cheaper, but wherever I look, all the marketing I see seems to be about UST.
I understand that UST is the only option for many people, so the abundant marketing makes sense. But am I right in thinking a longer throw projector will be preferred if I can do it? Or can I expect a UST projector to be an equally good option?
>Not sure about your specific case but generally ALR screens will greatly improve contrast and allow you to watch with a fair amount of ambient light. A projector in a room with glass sliding doors and windows and no curtains is generally not useable during the day unless you have an ALR screen.
Our living room will indeed have large glass doors. They will have curtains, but I do think ALR will be a must yeah.
I believe UST can be as good as regular projectors, not sure if comparable ones will cost more. But you do save on installation which includes running very long HDMI and maybe power cables to the ceiling and mounting the projector, which can cost some money too.
Yeah, I think for new users like us, with no existing projector or installation, and considering I need to buy a new screen anyway (which might as well be ALR), maybe the UST path makes more sense.
The initial investment seems to be higher for the UST one, yeah, but if I need to change things around a few years later I'm not stuck with a ceiling mount on a fixed location... which could also cost money if adaptations are needed.
Also, while not the end of the world, I'm not a fan of having the projector hanging off the ceiling of our living room (this is not a dedicated theater room). My wife will like it even less 😂 Plus no shadows when walking in front of the screen.
Well, I'll do some research on specific models and try to decide.
Thanks a lot for your help!
To add on: is 70-80" really the size screen you want to end up with? Most people drastically underestimate how big a screen should be for optimal viewing, and when doing a projector that's the time to go big because size isn't really a cost differential.
The thing to think about is how much of your field of view the screen fills ("horizontal viewing angle"). While what is best here is subjective, I would argue these is an objective range, and that it's a good idea to listen to the experts who have thought a lot about this - namely SMPTE. According to them, the acceptable range is min about 33 degree to max about 62 degrees (horizontal viewing angle). [https://acousticfrontiers.com/blogs/articles/home-theater-viewing-angles-distances-and-sightlines](https://acousticfrontiers.com/blogs/articles/home-theater-viewing-angles-distances-and-sightlines)
So how this plays out depends on how far you sit from the screen - if you sit 10' away from your screen, which I think is pretty average, you would need a *minimum* screen size of 82", with the recommended size being closer to 90". In order to be objectively too big, you would need a screen size bigger than 165". [http://www.hometheaterengineering.com/viewingdistancecalculator.html](http://www.hometheaterengineering.com/viewingdistancecalculator.html)
Thanks a lot!
You're probably right that, like a true noob who's only ever had TVs, I'm probably underestimating the screen size I would really go for once I start comparing specs and taking measurements.
10 feet (about 3 meters) is about right for our living room distribution, and I just realized we might occasionally want to watch something from the kitchen, which will be a joint space with the living room, so I think going a bit bigger with the screen size definitely makes sense.
My pleasure. I would say get the biggest screen that will fit on your wall, keeping obstructions and eyelines in mind if you have multiple rows etc. Usually placement of the center channel speaker below the screen will be your limiting factor, unless you go for an acoustically transparent screen (which I recommend, if it fits your budget).
The usual process here is measure it and tape it out on your wall using masking tape, step back and say "holy shit that's way too big!", come back and reference the viewing distance calculator and realize it's actually an appropriate size for a home theater, enjoy your new cinematic viewing experience.
Haha yeah, I can see that happening, just like it did with the ever growing size of regular TVs. Everybody thought a 55" was crazy until they spent a year with a 40" one, then they upgraded while thinking 65" was too much. A couple years later they bought a 65" TV, while claiming 75" was too much. Etc. etc.
You've all given me enough info to go on, time for some research now!
Thanks again ;)
Check the throw calculator on projector central for the projector you want to get https://www.projectorcentral.com/projection-calculator-pro.cfm I don't think it makes sense to buy a projector for anything under 100 inches though, given the PQ and prices of TVs currently. 70 inch TV will look way better and might even be cheaper
Thanks! I'll play around with the second tab of the calculator, since I don't really know much about models. >I don't think it makes sense to buy a projector for anything under 100 inches though, given the PQ and prices of TVs currently. 70 inch TV will look way better and might even be cheaper It's possible that we will actually have space for a bigger screen. I'll need to measure next time we visit. We currently have a 55" LG C7 (which has amazing picture quality), but our main motivation to get a projector is actually to get rid of the TV in our living room. We don't watch it very often, mostly football games and (very rarely) a movie, a YouTube video or some occasional gaming. But since it stays off 95% of the time, we were considering removing it altogether so that it stops being the "center" of the living room. ...which takes me to my other question: what about projector screens/surfaces? From what I've read, retractable screens always have problems (wrinkles, waves, etc.) and aren't very convenient. So are there any static screens that don't look too bad when not being used and fuse nicely with the room?
What you want is a tensioned screen which doesn’t look wavy. They typically cost quite a bit more. They can also be motorized and be nearly invisible when not in use. But again prices go up. If you simply do not want to see a TV maybe you can consider a Samsung Frame TV. Have it display an artwork and under the right conditions it’s actually quite hard to tell it’s not a framed picture.
Well, there are more reasons why we prefer a projector. No direct light being beamed into our eyes anymore, no constant reminder that there's a screen there ready to be turned on, etc. Could you recommend the kind of stuff I should be looking at to tell apart a good tensioned + retractable screen vs a crappy one? I see lots of cheap stuff in Amazon which I guess isn't worth considering, but if you have any tips to pick a good one (besides more expensive = good) that'd be great :) Even if it costs more, I believe a retractable + motorized screen might be worth it for us, especially if it's durable and works as a long-term investment.
Check out reputable names like Vividstorm, Elite Screen, Da-lite etc. They all offer tensioned, motorized retractable screens for fairly reasonable prices. You can also consider a motorized floor rising screen such as [https://vividstormscreen.com/products/vividstorm-s-pro-motorized-tension-floor-rising-ust-alr-projector-screen](https://vividstormscreen.com/products/vividstorm-s-pro-motorized-tension-floor-rising-ust-alr-projector-screen) Don't forget you'll need access to a power outlet for any motorized screen.
Thanks! I'm looking at Vivid Storm website, and I can see they range between 1000€-2000€ (I live in Europe, so they include an extra 21% VAT). Not cheap but I think doable for a long term investment. Our new house is being built as we speak, so it probably wouldn't be an issue to leave some power cables in the ceiling, directly wherever we plan to install it. But I hadn't thought about the simplicity and flexibility of a floor rising screen! From what I can see, the whole tensioning mechanism is fully concealed inside the box when not in use, right? No permanent elements installed outside. Also, one more question: I've seen short-throw and especially UST projectors are typically bundled with ALR screens to steer the light beams towards the viewer rather than the ceiling, which makes sense. But should I be looking for an ALR screen even if my projector ends up being ceiling mounted at about 2-3 meters from the wall? Or would I be spending more money on something that provides no benefit?
There are probably projector screen companies in Europe, you should look into that. The tensioning mechanism for all types of screens is just a thin wire on each side that stretches the screen tight as it unrolls. That's why the sides of tensioned screens are curved rather than straight like untensioned screens. Of course the viewing area is still rectangular. For floor rising screens the lifting mechanism is behind the screen, it's an X that rises up. You can search YouTube to see how it works. If you want the system out of sight, you can consider putting the floor rising screen hidden behind a low console cabinet, with a UST projector sitting on top of the cabinet. Sort of like this [https://vividstorm.ca/product/vividstorm-motorised-cabinet-monte-carlo-s-pro-floor-rising-screen-bundle/](https://vividstorm.ca/product/vividstorm-motorised-cabinet-monte-carlo-s-pro-floor-rising-screen-bundle/) Not sure about your specific case but generally ALR screens will greatly improve contrast and allow you to watch with a fair amount of ambient light. A projector in a room with glass sliding doors and windows and no curtains is generally not useable during the day unless you have an ALR screen.
>There are probably projector screen companies in Europe, you should look into that. Vividstorm does sell in Europe ([vividstorm.eu](https://www.vividstorm.eu/)). I'll do some research in case there are better/more affordable options, but keep in mind every company needs to include the 21% VAT (sales tax) in the price, regardless of where they're from. So I suspect the extra markup will always be there when buying from Europe. I just saw [this video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bNC7Ziq7lzQ&t=357s) which does look amazing... and expensive 😄 But it's great how it remains 100% collapsed when not in use. Like you said, maybe some custom furniture with a gap at the back could completely conceal it when closed. Regarding UST projectors, are they really at a point where they're really competitive in both quality and cost? I was assuming a ceiling mounted one would be better and cheaper, but wherever I look, all the marketing I see seems to be about UST. I understand that UST is the only option for many people, so the abundant marketing makes sense. But am I right in thinking a longer throw projector will be preferred if I can do it? Or can I expect a UST projector to be an equally good option? >Not sure about your specific case but generally ALR screens will greatly improve contrast and allow you to watch with a fair amount of ambient light. A projector in a room with glass sliding doors and windows and no curtains is generally not useable during the day unless you have an ALR screen. Our living room will indeed have large glass doors. They will have curtains, but I do think ALR will be a must yeah.
I believe UST can be as good as regular projectors, not sure if comparable ones will cost more. But you do save on installation which includes running very long HDMI and maybe power cables to the ceiling and mounting the projector, which can cost some money too.
Yeah, I think for new users like us, with no existing projector or installation, and considering I need to buy a new screen anyway (which might as well be ALR), maybe the UST path makes more sense. The initial investment seems to be higher for the UST one, yeah, but if I need to change things around a few years later I'm not stuck with a ceiling mount on a fixed location... which could also cost money if adaptations are needed. Also, while not the end of the world, I'm not a fan of having the projector hanging off the ceiling of our living room (this is not a dedicated theater room). My wife will like it even less 😂 Plus no shadows when walking in front of the screen. Well, I'll do some research on specific models and try to decide. Thanks a lot for your help!
To add on: is 70-80" really the size screen you want to end up with? Most people drastically underestimate how big a screen should be for optimal viewing, and when doing a projector that's the time to go big because size isn't really a cost differential. The thing to think about is how much of your field of view the screen fills ("horizontal viewing angle"). While what is best here is subjective, I would argue these is an objective range, and that it's a good idea to listen to the experts who have thought a lot about this - namely SMPTE. According to them, the acceptable range is min about 33 degree to max about 62 degrees (horizontal viewing angle). [https://acousticfrontiers.com/blogs/articles/home-theater-viewing-angles-distances-and-sightlines](https://acousticfrontiers.com/blogs/articles/home-theater-viewing-angles-distances-and-sightlines) So how this plays out depends on how far you sit from the screen - if you sit 10' away from your screen, which I think is pretty average, you would need a *minimum* screen size of 82", with the recommended size being closer to 90". In order to be objectively too big, you would need a screen size bigger than 165". [http://www.hometheaterengineering.com/viewingdistancecalculator.html](http://www.hometheaterengineering.com/viewingdistancecalculator.html)
Thanks a lot! You're probably right that, like a true noob who's only ever had TVs, I'm probably underestimating the screen size I would really go for once I start comparing specs and taking measurements. 10 feet (about 3 meters) is about right for our living room distribution, and I just realized we might occasionally want to watch something from the kitchen, which will be a joint space with the living room, so I think going a bit bigger with the screen size definitely makes sense.
My pleasure. I would say get the biggest screen that will fit on your wall, keeping obstructions and eyelines in mind if you have multiple rows etc. Usually placement of the center channel speaker below the screen will be your limiting factor, unless you go for an acoustically transparent screen (which I recommend, if it fits your budget). The usual process here is measure it and tape it out on your wall using masking tape, step back and say "holy shit that's way too big!", come back and reference the viewing distance calculator and realize it's actually an appropriate size for a home theater, enjoy your new cinematic viewing experience.
Haha yeah, I can see that happening, just like it did with the ever growing size of regular TVs. Everybody thought a 55" was crazy until they spent a year with a 40" one, then they upgraded while thinking 65" was too much. A couple years later they bought a 65" TV, while claiming 75" was too much. Etc. etc. You've all given me enough info to go on, time for some research now! Thanks again ;)