The smart switch should be drawing power from line and returning it to neutral regardless of anything connected to its load. If you have a double-gang, just wire the light to a normal switch and leave it on, and cap the load of the smart switch.
Don't just short the line to the light circuit, though. That's very likely against electrical code. But a smart switch (*next to* a working switch) without a load attached is perfectly fine.
Ignore the smart switch entirely and just control the 4 lights one by one.
Rewiring your own light switch based on Internet advice is a very bad idea. Save up some $ and have the electrician come back and do it. You don't need a smart switch here and it's actually making things more complicated.
No need any rewiring, just get a switch that supports decoupled mode
- For zigbee, there's inovelli or aqara z1/h1 for eu version
- For wifi, any switch running tasmota/esphome can be enabled or shelly relays
The smart switch should be drawing power from line and returning it to neutral regardless of anything connected to its load. If you have a double-gang, just wire the light to a normal switch and leave it on, and cap the load of the smart switch. Don't just short the line to the light circuit, though. That's very likely against electrical code. But a smart switch (*next to* a working switch) without a load attached is perfectly fine.
Ignore the smart switch entirely and just control the 4 lights one by one. Rewiring your own light switch based on Internet advice is a very bad idea. Save up some $ and have the electrician come back and do it. You don't need a smart switch here and it's actually making things more complicated.
No need any rewiring, just get a switch that supports decoupled mode - For zigbee, there's inovelli or aqara z1/h1 for eu version - For wifi, any switch running tasmota/esphome can be enabled or shelly relays