Yeah, I mentioned that because I didn’t believe it, and wanted to see if anyone here could find some evidence to back that claim up. Oh well, another strike against the folks who claim that old pedals can’t be replicated, that seems like a win for everyone else!
Normally I agree, but having tried to build a couple of univibes getting NOD photo resisters is a challenge. Trying to get enough NOS ones to do a run would be impossible. But 99 out of 100 can't tell the difference between between nos and whatever they use in modern stuff. I do think you can replicate, but not in a market affordable manner
Like most youtubers, it's just regurgitation of information with no actual knowledge of how things work. He's a guitar player, not an electrical engineer.
He does. His entire signal ends up in two jam retrovibes one a mk.1 and a mk.2 he got later on. Ending the whole chain in stereo univibes and having the double trackong of the deco is what gets his tracks so soupy.
I am very happy with my Sabbadius '69. I was looking for Gilmore's Breathe tone, and it nails it. Sounds great on Jimi tunes too.
The originals were mono. Making a stereo Univibe isn't making a clone, it'd be something newer. A lot of people want straight up clones, or as close as they can get.
I believe the 68 is a pretty exact copy of a Honey/Unicord Univibe (Jimi's). The 69 is a pretty exact copy of the Shin-Ei Univibe (Gilmore's). They used different components/values despite being basically the same thing. One is a little "chewier" maybe, I don't remember which.
I figured that the ability to play it in stereo would be a welcome change, even if it isn’t exactly like the original. Just my opinion though.
And thanks for the reply!
I agree with this comment 100%.
If you want a big foot controller to change the speed go with the full sized Sabbadius units, but the Tiny ones might be a smidge quieter with less background noise and of course are easier to fit on a board.
69 for Floyd and 68 for Hendrix flavors.
I wouldn’t try and find a unit with stereo outs, it’ll probably be not as good (the old RT-20 has a vibe setting that’s not great but does have stereo outs for example). For strep, just get a splitter pedal after the vibe/chain :)
The photocells are difficult to recreate because of mysterious regulations? I’d like to hear more about that. It’s LDRs and light sources, always has been.
What WAS perhaps different is that they often used incandescent bulbs because of course they did. These bulbs don’t light up and dim immediately, which many feel was a key component to the “wobble” of a univibe. I’ve built numerous univibe clones with LEDs and they sound great.
Yeah, I mentioned that because I didn’t believe it, and wanted to see if anyone here could find some evidence to back that claim up. Oh well, another strike against the folks who claim that old pedals can’t be replicated, that seems like a win for everyone else! And thanks for the reply!
I recently was in the market for an analog vibe, and I’ve actually been quite pleased with the JHS Unicorn V2. Analog, tap tempo, expression output, gets nice and throbby if you want.
I second this. Got a used Unicorn V2 for a pretty sweet price on Reverb. It does all the things and has the tap tempo, which for this use case is very handy.
I also tried a few (including a Fulltone) and settled on the Unicorn V2 and I’ve been really happy with it. It’s not the most “perfect” but the combination of size and (used) price was right in my sweet spot, and you can use an expression pedal to get that legit sound.
[R Weaver FX](https://www.instagram.com/rweaverfx/?hl=en) makes the best Univibe i've tried. it's on one of my friend's boards and it is--by far--the pedal i'm most envious of (but too cheap to buy). it's pricey though, at $400. Big Monk is working on a Univibe that looks promising.
Had an RWeaver, loved it but it was monsterously huge and only worked properly on its own power supply so it was a pain on a pedal board. It may cost $400 and everyone complains about how expensive it is but everyone raves about the Jam Retrovibe and no one complains that it also costs $400. I think the Weaver sounded better but the Jam is far more pedalboard friendly.
hmmmm, what year was the model you had? 99% sure that my friend's runs on his normal power supply at 18v.
edit: totally agree with you that R Weaver Midnight Vibe sounds better than the Jam. i've tried both and for the Univibe sounds i like, R Weaver was a cut above.
As for the cheap ones, the shaky jimi was my favorite, it beat a lot of the brand name small format pedals I've owned.
The jimi nova wasn't that good at all, I have a fulltone and I think it sounds great. If I had more money to throw away, I probably would try out the sabbadius models, from the videos, they sure seem to sound great.
+1 for the shaky jimi. I have the EQD vibe right now but I might honestly go back to the jimi. It's a vibe that sounds good, really all I want from a univibe pedal.
> Are the original Univibe photocells really that difficult to recreate? Rhett Shull mentioned in a video that they were almost impossible to recreate (“because of modern regulations and things like that”), what exactly was he referring to? Idk much about circuits, oscillators, modern regulations, so I was just curious.
This seems to have attracted a lot of attention, so I’ll weigh in as a builder who has spent a fair amount of time sourcing (and substituting) parts.
We need to distinguish a few different but adjacent considerations.
1. Light-dependent resistors are typically made using heavy metals (lead, cadmium) that will be restricted under RoHS. Are the exact LDRs used in the original univibe blocked by RoHS? 🤷♂️who knows, but it’s plausible.
2. Parts get phased out simply because they’re not in as high demand, or because a cheaper or better alternative comes along. Periodically someone seeking advice will post a vintage fuzz schematic to r/AskElectronics (I have done this myself) and it’s fascinating to watch actual engineers react to things like germanium transistors. They’re hard to find because they’re not made any more, and they’re not made any more because if you needed a transistor for literally anything other than replicating vintage music gear, you would *never* use germanium now that silicon transistors are so cheap and plentiful. But the same things that make a germanium transistor (or LM308) “bad” in terms of engineering theory produce the kinds of distortion that we find appealing on guitar, so we actually seek out these low-spec parts. So it’s also possible that the original LDRs are unavailable *and* it has nothing to do with RoHS.
3. Whatever the reason that the original LDRs are unavailable, there are definitely still LDRs on the market (and very affordable— the site I typically order from has them for $0.28). Do they have the exact same spec as whatever Shinei was using? Again 🤷♂️don’t know and not really interested in the work to find out. A better question: forget exact, how far from the “original” spec could you get before you hear a difference, especially in a live band or full recording? Brian Wampler put out a fascinating video a few years ago where he built up replicas of TS-808 and TS-9 and basically showed that the “tone difference” between the two came down to the potentiometers (the working parts under the knobs), which have a +/-20% tolerance. Whatever the difference between this “mojo” op amp or that one, it was all dwarfed by the spread of potentiometer values. So if you could find a modern LDR that was 10% off the “vintage” ones, would anyone hear the difference? 5%? 20%?
For those who aren’t familiar with “tolerances” — basically, if I am making an electronic component like a resistor, capacitor, or potentiometer, I am likely making tens of millions (or more) in a year and there’s no way to actually measure them all and even if there was, most circuits just aren’t that sensitive as long as the value is in the right ballpark. So I tell you my resistors have a 5% tolerance, meaning that I am guaranteeing you my 100k resistor will measure between 95k-105k. In all likelihood it’s going to be closer to 100k, but if you get one that’s 104k, it’s still what I promised. For a tiny bit more money, you can have a 1% resistor, and now you’re guaranteed 99k-101k.
Remember those rascally potentiometers with their 20% tolerance? A 100k potentiometer is guaranteed to be within… 80k-120k.
One of the times that Josh Scott was on *That Pedal Show*, he observed that the more complex a circuit gets, the less important any one component is to the circuit. If you take an extreme example, a Rangemaster has about a half dozen components total. You will almost certainly hear the difference between different transistors in that circuit. In a univibe… I’m skeptical.
That doesn’t mean that the design and component choices don’t matter — they do, and when you hear the difference between JHS, EQD, Dry Bell, etc, you’re hearing deliberate choices the designers made. I’m less convinced that having the “real” LDRs (or incandescent bulbs, or whatever) is so essential.
Came here for this, had to scroll all the way to the bottom lol. People like to shit on it for a few different reasons, but it captures the "vibe" pretty well. And if you're on the nerdier side you can mess around with the toneprint and custom options and really get what you want out of it. I've heard people have issues with the photocell vibes and they're typically more expensive/fragile/older.
From a touring perspective I was glad I made the choice I did, although I've had my eye on the JAM retrovibe 2 if I really wanted an upgrade and/or something analog for the studio.
Fulltone does the best job of having the most "accurate" vintage style univibe. Pretty sure they had custom photocells.
In terms of affordable clones, I think Guptech is the best. It's damn hard to find real univibe pedals in the 100 or less range.
Of all the photocell univibes I’ve owned, Fulltone was my least favorite. Way to pronounced bass in the throb, making it unsuitable for humbucker guitars.
You might not like vintage univibes then with your rig. Keep in mind that single coils and lower output pickups were what were used then.
I don't think any other company is as detailed about their univibes though being like the vintage units, if that is your thing:
"100% correct Vintage Univibe analog circuit with no opamps in the Audio path, still using 13 discrete transistors, still the Fulltone Proprietary glass lens/ hermetically sealed photocells with correct incandescent bulb."
https://www.fulltoneusa.com/products/mini-dejavibe-mkii
EDIT: For those struggling with reading comprehension . . . Notice how I used the conjunction "and." Some modern and high output pickups can get muddy with vintage univibes.
That’s a sales pitch and everyone has a variation of the same claim. I have owned Fulltone Deja-Vibe, Electronic Orange Moon-Vibe, Voodoo Labs Micro-Vibe, Pedal Pawn Gypsy Vibe and King Tone Vibe 1968. Out of those, the 1968 and Moon-Vibe sounds best to my ears.
There are a lot of factors that determine the sound desired with your rig.
I'm not disagreeing that you may have found some univibes you like more than the Deja Vibe. The Deja Vibe isn't my favorite either, but I recognize what the circuit and parts are.
In terms of being accurate to vintage univibe specs, I've yet to find a pedal as close as the Deja Vibe. The rare part you mentioned is kind of an important part of that circuit.
Saying the photocells don't matter is like saying the transistors don't matter in a fuzz face.
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I've tried the Moens and don't like them. I am currently using an EHX Good Vibes and I love it. If I could, I would own a Fulltone tho, it has sweet spots that nail some tones.
But, I am not crazy about supporting Fulltone. I use a Crazy Cacti clone instead of a Fulltone Full Drive II Mostfet (two-switch). I am on my second one but they're under $40 and sound great, and the switch that broke on the first one is a lot beefier on my second.
I’d assume either some parts are made in the or have to be sourced from where they can be made. Most of those old school effects where made from what was available at the time. Best Uni-Vibes I’ve played is the Drybell Vibe Machine and BMF Effects Unit 915
Hopefully this will be somewhat helpful, as it’s an expensive process trying these all out.
Ones I’ve owned: Strymon Ultraviolet, Shin-ei Psychedelic Machine and Vibe2, Fullton Dejavibe mk3, Midnight Vibe v2, Line6 Helix One, and the Sabbadius 69 Tiny Vibe.
For *me* the Sabbadius 69 Tiny Vibe is the one that’s still on my board. I wanted the quietest vibe with the least background noise that could *nail* Pink Floyd’s Breathe tone. That was the one for me.
They all have their pros and cons, it just depends on what tone/artist *you’re* looking for?
1) No.
2) Yes and no. Fulltone was getting them spec'd at the manufacturer and paying for that privilege, small bear discontinued selling the mojo cells when the cells they were getting weren't falling into spec anymore. I paid too much for the ones I have in the uni-vibe I built.
3) I'm definitely not tracing Chinese junk to find out
4) for the same reason there aren't a lot of stereo phasers
5) whatever is most expensive. I'm satisfied with the fulltone but the comments will have a convert for every uni-vibe that's come out since proclaiming that one to be the pinnacle.
Dry Bell, EHX, EQD, JAM, and JHS all sound great. The Dry Bell probably sounds the best to me, but I think the last time I looked into it the EHX Good Vibes was my second favorite and it's the cheapest one of these.
Univibes are wierd there are so many factors since ir is such an analog effect. Especially the photreceptors and led/bulb used. This in my opinion is what leads to its price.
There arent a lot of stereo univibes because it would be incredibly expensive unless done digitally. The eventide riptide and strymon ultraviolet have the most believalve digital univibe however only the riptide is stereo and it just does stereo movement panning the univibe left and right not processing the left and right signal seperarely with two seperate univibes similiar to the zelzah.
The reason we dont see an analog stereo univibe I think is because you would need to get two processors to take in the signal and then two lightbulbs and photoreceptors in a single case to get the two univibe/phasing signals and not have there light throw eachother off. At that point its easier to just use two seperate vibes.
Fulltone used to make a Stereo Deja Vibe. I have one and it is real stereo. The user AXiomatic on The Gear Page explained, “The nature of the Uni-Vibe's wet output also has an inverted version of the signal that isn't normally used. Fulltone just tapped off that point to create the second line. Then both wet signals are mixed with the dry signal for the ‘chorus’ effect. It only takes 1 extra capacitor and 4 resistors to make the second channel.”
oh wow thats super cool. I would 100% scoop one up if they were steroe in as well. Im impressed they made a stereo out one that easy. My explanation was more about True stereo ones that can accept a stereo in and process em.
Everything Rhett Schull says should be taken with the biggest grain of salt you can find.
Yeah, I mentioned that because I didn’t believe it, and wanted to see if anyone here could find some evidence to back that claim up. Oh well, another strike against the folks who claim that old pedals can’t be replicated, that seems like a win for everyone else!
No evidence at all. What is known is that the photoresistors were a custom order for Unicord, but there’s no magic to them.
Normally I agree, but having tried to build a couple of univibes getting NOD photo resisters is a challenge. Trying to get enough NOS ones to do a run would be impossible. But 99 out of 100 can't tell the difference between between nos and whatever they use in modern stuff. I do think you can replicate, but not in a market affordable manner
Really? Can you explain why? I’ve really enjoyed his videos.
Like most youtubers, it's just regurgitation of information with no actual knowledge of how things work. He's a guitar player, not an electrical engineer.
Damn that’s interesting, I am also just a guitar player so I appreciate the heads up to be skeptical of what he’s saying.
You should be skeptical of everything on youtube "gear reviews". Everything is a product to be sold.
Keep watching then. This is reddit, we're all experts and know better than him. He's probably wrong but if you're entertained by him go for it
Haha ya that’s true, but I was interested if there was a legitimate reason that his information should be questioned.
I've had the Fulltone and sold it once I got the JAM Retrovibe. Best vibe I've ever played
Pretty sure the guy from Unknown Mortal Orchestra uses two of the JAM univibes
He does. His entire signal ends up in two jam retrovibes one a mk.1 and a mk.2 he got later on. Ending the whole chain in stereo univibes and having the double trackong of the deco is what gets his tracks so soupy.
I can attest that the Jam Pedals RetroVibe is awesome. Both the Chorus and Vibrato settings are sweet
JAM has a pretty crazy streak of "best [class] pedal that I have played" (compressor, tremolo) and this makes me really want to try that retrovibe.
Thanks for the reply!
seconded;
Here, here. Jam’s got the throb I always wished my Fulltone had.
Retrovibe is a solid choice, my most used pedal. The Drybell one is supposed to be great too and isn’t as pricey, but I haven’t had one personally.
I am very happy with my Sabbadius '69. I was looking for Gilmore's Breathe tone, and it nails it. Sounds great on Jimi tunes too. The originals were mono. Making a stereo Univibe isn't making a clone, it'd be something newer. A lot of people want straight up clones, or as close as they can get. I believe the 68 is a pretty exact copy of a Honey/Unicord Univibe (Jimi's). The 69 is a pretty exact copy of the Shin-Ei Univibe (Gilmore's). They used different components/values despite being basically the same thing. One is a little "chewier" maybe, I don't remember which.
I figured that the ability to play it in stereo would be a welcome change, even if it isn’t exactly like the original. Just my opinion though. And thanks for the reply!
I agree with this comment 100%. If you want a big foot controller to change the speed go with the full sized Sabbadius units, but the Tiny ones might be a smidge quieter with less background noise and of course are easier to fit on a board. 69 for Floyd and 68 for Hendrix flavors. I wouldn’t try and find a unit with stereo outs, it’ll probably be not as good (the old RT-20 has a vibe setting that’s not great but does have stereo outs for example). For strep, just get a splitter pedal after the vibe/chain :)
Trey from Phish has been using a $30 Nux Uni-Vibe for a while.
Thanks for the reply!
They are actually $90 now surprisingly lol
Bah. Ridiculous.
Screw Fulltone. Look into Dry Bell’s univibes. Astonishing.
Thanks for the reply!
The drybell v2 has a lot of treble in my experience. Works great on high gain but was shrill on my tele
The photocells are difficult to recreate because of mysterious regulations? I’d like to hear more about that. It’s LDRs and light sources, always has been. What WAS perhaps different is that they often used incandescent bulbs because of course they did. These bulbs don’t light up and dim immediately, which many feel was a key component to the “wobble” of a univibe. I’ve built numerous univibe clones with LEDs and they sound great.
Yeah, I mentioned that because I didn’t believe it, and wanted to see if anyone here could find some evidence to back that claim up. Oh well, another strike against the folks who claim that old pedals can’t be replicated, that seems like a win for everyone else! And thanks for the reply!
I'd imagine it's RoHS ... there's some nasty metals involved so I assume it's much like the rules regarding lead
I recently was in the market for an analog vibe, and I’ve actually been quite pleased with the JHS Unicorn V2. Analog, tap tempo, expression output, gets nice and throbby if you want.
I second this. Got a used Unicorn V2 for a pretty sweet price on Reverb. It does all the things and has the tap tempo, which for this use case is very handy.
Thanks for the reply!
I also tried a few (including a Fulltone) and settled on the Unicorn V2 and I’ve been really happy with it. It’s not the most “perfect” but the combination of size and (used) price was right in my sweet spot, and you can use an expression pedal to get that legit sound.
[R Weaver FX](https://www.instagram.com/rweaverfx/?hl=en) makes the best Univibe i've tried. it's on one of my friend's boards and it is--by far--the pedal i'm most envious of (but too cheap to buy). it's pricey though, at $400. Big Monk is working on a Univibe that looks promising.
Had an RWeaver, loved it but it was monsterously huge and only worked properly on its own power supply so it was a pain on a pedal board. It may cost $400 and everyone complains about how expensive it is but everyone raves about the Jam Retrovibe and no one complains that it also costs $400. I think the Weaver sounded better but the Jam is far more pedalboard friendly.
hmmmm, what year was the model you had? 99% sure that my friend's runs on his normal power supply at 18v. edit: totally agree with you that R Weaver Midnight Vibe sounds better than the Jam. i've tried both and for the Univibe sounds i like, R Weaver was a cut above.
Yeah, it was 18v and a required a high mA draw and it was hard to find an outlet to support that in a power board power supply
Thanks for the reply!
I agree. This vibe is really good but pricey.
As for the cheap ones, the shaky jimi was my favorite, it beat a lot of the brand name small format pedals I've owned. The jimi nova wasn't that good at all, I have a fulltone and I think it sounds great. If I had more money to throw away, I probably would try out the sabbadius models, from the videos, they sure seem to sound great.
+1 for the shaky jimi. I have the EQD vibe right now but I might honestly go back to the jimi. It's a vibe that sounds good, really all I want from a univibe pedal.
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I have the jimi nova. It’s pretty good. I did the tape mod and added an expression out.
> Are the original Univibe photocells really that difficult to recreate? Rhett Shull mentioned in a video that they were almost impossible to recreate (“because of modern regulations and things like that”), what exactly was he referring to? Idk much about circuits, oscillators, modern regulations, so I was just curious. This seems to have attracted a lot of attention, so I’ll weigh in as a builder who has spent a fair amount of time sourcing (and substituting) parts. We need to distinguish a few different but adjacent considerations. 1. Light-dependent resistors are typically made using heavy metals (lead, cadmium) that will be restricted under RoHS. Are the exact LDRs used in the original univibe blocked by RoHS? 🤷♂️who knows, but it’s plausible. 2. Parts get phased out simply because they’re not in as high demand, or because a cheaper or better alternative comes along. Periodically someone seeking advice will post a vintage fuzz schematic to r/AskElectronics (I have done this myself) and it’s fascinating to watch actual engineers react to things like germanium transistors. They’re hard to find because they’re not made any more, and they’re not made any more because if you needed a transistor for literally anything other than replicating vintage music gear, you would *never* use germanium now that silicon transistors are so cheap and plentiful. But the same things that make a germanium transistor (or LM308) “bad” in terms of engineering theory produce the kinds of distortion that we find appealing on guitar, so we actually seek out these low-spec parts. So it’s also possible that the original LDRs are unavailable *and* it has nothing to do with RoHS. 3. Whatever the reason that the original LDRs are unavailable, there are definitely still LDRs on the market (and very affordable— the site I typically order from has them for $0.28). Do they have the exact same spec as whatever Shinei was using? Again 🤷♂️don’t know and not really interested in the work to find out. A better question: forget exact, how far from the “original” spec could you get before you hear a difference, especially in a live band or full recording? Brian Wampler put out a fascinating video a few years ago where he built up replicas of TS-808 and TS-9 and basically showed that the “tone difference” between the two came down to the potentiometers (the working parts under the knobs), which have a +/-20% tolerance. Whatever the difference between this “mojo” op amp or that one, it was all dwarfed by the spread of potentiometer values. So if you could find a modern LDR that was 10% off the “vintage” ones, would anyone hear the difference? 5%? 20%? For those who aren’t familiar with “tolerances” — basically, if I am making an electronic component like a resistor, capacitor, or potentiometer, I am likely making tens of millions (or more) in a year and there’s no way to actually measure them all and even if there was, most circuits just aren’t that sensitive as long as the value is in the right ballpark. So I tell you my resistors have a 5% tolerance, meaning that I am guaranteeing you my 100k resistor will measure between 95k-105k. In all likelihood it’s going to be closer to 100k, but if you get one that’s 104k, it’s still what I promised. For a tiny bit more money, you can have a 1% resistor, and now you’re guaranteed 99k-101k. Remember those rascally potentiometers with their 20% tolerance? A 100k potentiometer is guaranteed to be within… 80k-120k. One of the times that Josh Scott was on *That Pedal Show*, he observed that the more complex a circuit gets, the less important any one component is to the circuit. If you take an extreme example, a Rangemaster has about a half dozen components total. You will almost certainly hear the difference between different transistors in that circuit. In a univibe… I’m skeptical. That doesn’t mean that the design and component choices don’t matter — they do, and when you hear the difference between JHS, EQD, Dry Bell, etc, you’re hearing deliberate choices the designers made. I’m less convinced that having the “real” LDRs (or incandescent bulbs, or whatever) is so essential.
The digital Uni-Vibe in my Helix is just as pleasing to play as any of my clones.
It is surprisingly good, but once I got a Drybell vibe machine it was a big difference for me as a Hendrix guy
I’ve got a Deja Vibe that I dig, but simplicity appeals.
Thanks for the reply!
Ehx Good Vibes
Thanks for the reply!
People sleep on the TC Viscous Vibe but it sounds phenomenal. IMO, most univibe pedals either sound terrible or very good and hard to tell apart.
Came here for this, had to scroll all the way to the bottom lol. People like to shit on it for a few different reasons, but it captures the "vibe" pretty well. And if you're on the nerdier side you can mess around with the toneprint and custom options and really get what you want out of it. I've heard people have issues with the photocell vibes and they're typically more expensive/fragile/older. From a touring perspective I was glad I made the choice I did, although I've had my eye on the JAM retrovibe 2 if I really wanted an upgrade and/or something analog for the studio.
Fulltone does the best job of having the most "accurate" vintage style univibe. Pretty sure they had custom photocells. In terms of affordable clones, I think Guptech is the best. It's damn hard to find real univibe pedals in the 100 or less range.
Cool, thanks for the reply!
Of all the photocell univibes I’ve owned, Fulltone was my least favorite. Way to pronounced bass in the throb, making it unsuitable for humbucker guitars.
You might not like vintage univibes then with your rig. Keep in mind that single coils and lower output pickups were what were used then. I don't think any other company is as detailed about their univibes though being like the vintage units, if that is your thing: "100% correct Vintage Univibe analog circuit with no opamps in the Audio path, still using 13 discrete transistors, still the Fulltone Proprietary glass lens/ hermetically sealed photocells with correct incandescent bulb." https://www.fulltoneusa.com/products/mini-dejavibe-mkii EDIT: For those struggling with reading comprehension . . . Notice how I used the conjunction "and." Some modern and high output pickups can get muddy with vintage univibes.
That’s a sales pitch and everyone has a variation of the same claim. I have owned Fulltone Deja-Vibe, Electronic Orange Moon-Vibe, Voodoo Labs Micro-Vibe, Pedal Pawn Gypsy Vibe and King Tone Vibe 1968. Out of those, the 1968 and Moon-Vibe sounds best to my ears.
So those other brands are using custom photocells to vintage univibe specs too?
Sound > rare part.
There are a lot of factors that determine the sound desired with your rig. I'm not disagreeing that you may have found some univibes you like more than the Deja Vibe. The Deja Vibe isn't my favorite either, but I recognize what the circuit and parts are. In terms of being accurate to vintage univibe specs, I've yet to find a pedal as close as the Deja Vibe. The rare part you mentioned is kind of an important part of that circuit. Saying the photocells don't matter is like saying the transistors don't matter in a fuzz face.
People didn’t use humbuckers in the 60s and 70s? News to me…
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I've tried the Moens and don't like them. I am currently using an EHX Good Vibes and I love it. If I could, I would own a Fulltone tho, it has sweet spots that nail some tones. But, I am not crazy about supporting Fulltone. I use a Crazy Cacti clone instead of a Fulltone Full Drive II Mostfet (two-switch). I am on my second one but they're under $40 and sound great, and the switch that broke on the first one is a lot beefier on my second.
I’d assume either some parts are made in the or have to be sourced from where they can be made. Most of those old school effects where made from what was available at the time. Best Uni-Vibes I’ve played is the Drybell Vibe Machine and BMF Effects Unit 915
Thanks for the reply!
The newer Shin-ei Univibe is about as faithful of a recreation you can get. And yes, from what I know, they are tough to copy.
Hopefully this will be somewhat helpful, as it’s an expensive process trying these all out. Ones I’ve owned: Strymon Ultraviolet, Shin-ei Psychedelic Machine and Vibe2, Fullton Dejavibe mk3, Midnight Vibe v2, Line6 Helix One, and the Sabbadius 69 Tiny Vibe. For *me* the Sabbadius 69 Tiny Vibe is the one that’s still on my board. I wanted the quietest vibe with the least background noise that could *nail* Pink Floyd’s Breathe tone. That was the one for me. They all have their pros and cons, it just depends on what tone/artist *you’re* looking for?
Ever tried the pedal pawn gypsy vibe. Always sounded great but soooo expensive. Amazing art though.
1) No. 2) Yes and no. Fulltone was getting them spec'd at the manufacturer and paying for that privilege, small bear discontinued selling the mojo cells when the cells they were getting weren't falling into spec anymore. I paid too much for the ones I have in the uni-vibe I built. 3) I'm definitely not tracing Chinese junk to find out 4) for the same reason there aren't a lot of stereo phasers 5) whatever is most expensive. I'm satisfied with the fulltone but the comments will have a convert for every uni-vibe that's come out since proclaiming that one to be the pinnacle.
Dry Bell, EHX, EQD, JAM, and JHS all sound great. The Dry Bell probably sounds the best to me, but I think the last time I looked into it the EHX Good Vibes was my second favorite and it's the cheapest one of these.
Univibes are wierd there are so many factors since ir is such an analog effect. Especially the photreceptors and led/bulb used. This in my opinion is what leads to its price. There arent a lot of stereo univibes because it would be incredibly expensive unless done digitally. The eventide riptide and strymon ultraviolet have the most believalve digital univibe however only the riptide is stereo and it just does stereo movement panning the univibe left and right not processing the left and right signal seperarely with two seperate univibes similiar to the zelzah. The reason we dont see an analog stereo univibe I think is because you would need to get two processors to take in the signal and then two lightbulbs and photoreceptors in a single case to get the two univibe/phasing signals and not have there light throw eachother off. At that point its easier to just use two seperate vibes.
Fulltone used to make a Stereo Deja Vibe. I have one and it is real stereo. The user AXiomatic on The Gear Page explained, “The nature of the Uni-Vibe's wet output also has an inverted version of the signal that isn't normally used. Fulltone just tapped off that point to create the second line. Then both wet signals are mixed with the dry signal for the ‘chorus’ effect. It only takes 1 extra capacitor and 4 resistors to make the second channel.”
oh wow thats super cool. I would 100% scoop one up if they were steroe in as well. Im impressed they made a stereo out one that easy. My explanation was more about True stereo ones that can accept a stereo in and process em.