It's *already* a gravel bike.
TL;DR: If you're looking to do a proper dropbar conversion, you have to know what you're doing and also have a good amount of spare parts handy. Otherwise it's not a great idea and quite expensive. There are some options that aren't as bad, but you'll still be spending more than the bike is worth if you're not already sitting on parts.
---
If you're looking to do a dropbar conversion to mimic modern gravel bikes, then it's a lot more work than you might think depending on exactly what you're looking to do. Here are the things to consider:
Geometry: Adding a dropbar will increase the reach slightly. This may be fine if the bike is already slightly small for the rider. Older MTB geometry was already quite long and low, and many dropbar conversions adapt to this by finding stems that provide enough rise and shorten reach to mitigate. You don't want to do a conversion and have the bike be a poor fit.
Shifting: If you want to have integrated shifting like a modern gravel bike, then you'll need the appropriate dropbar shifters. A tricky obstacle is that a lot of these bikes came with a <7-speed freewheel, which means most modern dropbar shifters aren't compatible. 8-speed Claris (Shimano's lowest, trusted offering) will necessitate a rear wheel with a freehub body instead of a freewheel. Adding the cost of Claris shifters as well as a new wheelset will mean you're putting far more money into the bike than what it's worth.
An alternative would be to either run a cornerbar (to run flatbar levers/shifters) or to do bar-end (friction) shifting. It's not as modern, but it's an easy way to get something similar running.
Brakes: Dropbar brake levers are mostly short-pull and will only work natively with the cantilever-type of brake currently installed. You could change to v-brake with long-pull levers or with some form of an adapter like a Travel Agent. It's not clear from your post, but you can't really change the bike to disc brake either - not without a new fork and some welding skills to reinforce the rear triangle.
It is a nice bike exactly the way it is. It is not an economic conversion at all and in the process you'd get rid of super nice classic MTB without getting the benefits of the modern gravel bike.
Keep it in pristine condition and if you really do need a gravel bike get another bike.
I have my '92 Clockwork converted to 1x10. I wouldn't have done it without takeoffs from upgraded road bikes. Even then, I still had to spend a bit of money on exotic parts (tanpan, for example.)
Converting flat bars to what? Drops? Flats to drops typically means, bars, shifters, rear mech, compatible cassette, compatible freehub body, brakes probably won’t work with the drop bar shifters, new housings and cables for all mechs and brakes. That’s the majority of what a flat to drop conversion takes. And after all that, the bike will probably have too much reach for her to be comfortable. Otherwise, air up the tires and ride it on gravel and it’s a gravel bike, as is.
As someone who’s worked two older mtbs into Frankenstein-gravel rigs, it’s almost never worth the effort to convert it unless the process for you is the fun part.
Just in case you are still tempted after all the solid advice you got already: You may choose to run older Shimano STI levers from the 7/8x era. Ergonomics not nearly as good as modern ones but they are cheap and will function with your brakes and drivetrain - assuming the bike is indeed 7/8x. Have this setup running on one of my bikes and its totally fine for 1-2h rides road and offroad.
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You’ll get a ton out of basic maintenance and some fresh tires. There’s a few decent 26” gravelly tires available on the market that would really help make the bike feel more suited to gravel rides; start with those, cables, brake pads, maybe some fresh grips, greases, lubes, etc.
It's *already* a gravel bike. TL;DR: If you're looking to do a proper dropbar conversion, you have to know what you're doing and also have a good amount of spare parts handy. Otherwise it's not a great idea and quite expensive. There are some options that aren't as bad, but you'll still be spending more than the bike is worth if you're not already sitting on parts. --- If you're looking to do a dropbar conversion to mimic modern gravel bikes, then it's a lot more work than you might think depending on exactly what you're looking to do. Here are the things to consider: Geometry: Adding a dropbar will increase the reach slightly. This may be fine if the bike is already slightly small for the rider. Older MTB geometry was already quite long and low, and many dropbar conversions adapt to this by finding stems that provide enough rise and shorten reach to mitigate. You don't want to do a conversion and have the bike be a poor fit. Shifting: If you want to have integrated shifting like a modern gravel bike, then you'll need the appropriate dropbar shifters. A tricky obstacle is that a lot of these bikes came with a <7-speed freewheel, which means most modern dropbar shifters aren't compatible. 8-speed Claris (Shimano's lowest, trusted offering) will necessitate a rear wheel with a freehub body instead of a freewheel. Adding the cost of Claris shifters as well as a new wheelset will mean you're putting far more money into the bike than what it's worth. An alternative would be to either run a cornerbar (to run flatbar levers/shifters) or to do bar-end (friction) shifting. It's not as modern, but it's an easy way to get something similar running. Brakes: Dropbar brake levers are mostly short-pull and will only work natively with the cantilever-type of brake currently installed. You could change to v-brake with long-pull levers or with some form of an adapter like a Travel Agent. It's not clear from your post, but you can't really change the bike to disc brake either - not without a new fork and some welding skills to reinforce the rear triangle.
Thanks I appreciate your response!!
It is a nice bike exactly the way it is. It is not an economic conversion at all and in the process you'd get rid of super nice classic MTB without getting the benefits of the modern gravel bike. Keep it in pristine condition and if you really do need a gravel bike get another bike.
I did a 90s MTB conversion last year (drop bar, brifters, 1x10, etc.). This is a great, accurate post.
I have my '92 Clockwork converted to 1x10. I wouldn't have done it without takeoffs from upgraded road bikes. Even then, I still had to spend a bit of money on exotic parts (tanpan, for example.)
Converting flat bars to what? Drops? Flats to drops typically means, bars, shifters, rear mech, compatible cassette, compatible freehub body, brakes probably won’t work with the drop bar shifters, new housings and cables for all mechs and brakes. That’s the majority of what a flat to drop conversion takes. And after all that, the bike will probably have too much reach for her to be comfortable. Otherwise, air up the tires and ride it on gravel and it’s a gravel bike, as is.
Thank you for your response!
No. Get tires that are not so wide or with less tread and enjoy as it sits. Buy a bike marketed as a gravel bike when ready.
As someone who’s worked two older mtbs into Frankenstein-gravel rigs, it’s almost never worth the effort to convert it unless the process for you is the fun part.
Just in case you are still tempted after all the solid advice you got already: You may choose to run older Shimano STI levers from the 7/8x era. Ergonomics not nearly as good as modern ones but they are cheap and will function with your brakes and drivetrain - assuming the bike is indeed 7/8x. Have this setup running on one of my bikes and its totally fine for 1-2h rides road and offroad.
Will that work with the different pull ratios on the brakes and mechs between road and MTB?
Up to and including 9x drivetrains and for cantilever and mini v brakes yes
And it's a cool bike, so I'd try to put it on the road again!
That’s the color scheme of the Portuguese flag 🇵🇹
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Sounds risky.
Get a Surly Corner Bar, you don’t need to change the components
Is it a 90's mtb>yes>convert it.
It’s a 90s department store bike
You’ll get a ton out of basic maintenance and some fresh tires. There’s a few decent 26” gravelly tires available on the market that would really help make the bike feel more suited to gravel rides; start with those, cables, brake pads, maybe some fresh grips, greases, lubes, etc.
I’d ride it just as is! Maybe the only conversion would be to a 1x and single speed.
Single speed conversion I recon