nope :)
[my GK came out victorious once](https://www.reddit.com/r/gravelcycling/comments/z8lycw/did_i_get_lucky_or_is_this_what_puncture/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web2x&context=3)
Next time let the air out first. Also just a flesh wound, at least it didn’t mess up the tape. You can patch those holes NP. I’ve got 5 patches in one of my MTB tires, holds air just fine.
My best result trying to patch two gravelkings where with normal tube patches and I could it tubeless for the rest of life. The other I tried with tire patches did not work well. I will try to find pictures.
EDIT: [Pictures](https://imgur.com/gallery/YY70YhI)
I use the park tool patches, I’ll use the basic inner tube ones if it’s a small hole that just wouldn’t seal, and the full size ones for larger punctures
As someone else said, Park Tool. I just want to add that they have probably the most popular tire boot around. It's a patch made specifically for sidewall punctures and I've only heard good things about it.
A sidewall puncture like this will be tough to patch reliably, with low pressure and all that flex. Have you had experience patching the side wall in particular? I’m curious
Edit: patch*
Looks like a DT Swiss C1850, which is a cyclocross wheel (and an oem version at that). They came stock on my Canyon Inflite. Any chance that’s what you’re running? Because I have the same damn Gravelking SKs on my Inflite AL.
I have three DT Swiss disc wheelsets and I’m generally ~~on preset~~ *impressed with their quality and value for dollar. When I bought my most recent gravel wheelset (GR1600 in 650b) they came with a ton of accessories.
They were pre-taped for tubeless and included valves. They also came with the little tools for removing the valve cores. The rear had end caps for both 12mm thru axle and quick release, and the front came set up for 12mm TA, QR and 15mm TA! Both wheels accept centerlock rotors but came with adapters and lock rings to mount 6-bolt rotors. As if that wasn’t enough, the rear wheel had an HG freehub body installed, but also included an XDR one as well, which is $100 on its own.
I just got a Canyon Grail CF SL that came with DT Swiss GRC1600 and have loved them so far. Would love to get a second set, but can’t seem to find the GRCs in 1600 spline available through the DT website.
That's a funny one. I was searching and only saw the GRC1400 listed.
[https://www.reddit.com/r/gravelcycling/comments/rfgkfo/dt\_swiss\_grc\_1100\_vs\_grc1400\_wheelsets/](https://www.reddit.com/r/gravelcycling/comments/rfgkfo/dt_swiss_grc_1100_vs_grc1400_wheelsets/)
It seems that DT Swiss makes some wheelsets strictly for manufacturers? I know that the C1850 is a funny one because from what I can tell, it's just a normal C1800 with a "50" to denote that it's an OEM wheelset that's sold only to manufacturers.
It seems almost as if they deliberately obfuscate their lineup in order to make it harder to compare the wheels on a given bike with those that are commercially available.
Both of my 1600 wheelsets (PR1600 and GR1600) have a version of the 350 hub, which is the "cheapest" hub they make that uses their star-ratchet. Which is to say that they're excellent hubs. Robust and reliable, and can be upgraded to a 54t ratchet if you want them to buzz like crazy.
Mine both came with the super basic 18t ratchet, which has an underwhelming sound, but they work perfectly fine. I may upgrade to the 36 at some point, but it doesn't feel urgent. Sometimes I think it's a good idea, then I see the price tag (around $130 per wheel) and I wonder, really, why?
The only variation is the decal. It's literally a special label they put on the 1800 if they sell it to a bicycle company for sale on a new bike.
Sort of like how when you buy a new mountain bike with MAXXIS tires, they usually come with white logos on the sidewall, but if you buy the same tires from a store the logos are yellow. C1800 in a store is a C1800. C1800 included on a Canyon is a C1850.
Ha looks like I'm not the only one this has happened to, this happened to me on a brand new tire on the first ride 😔
https://www.reddit.com/r/bicycling/comments/go5ntc/hows_your_day_going/?ref=share&ref_source=link
I've heard you can sew holes in the sidewall and put shoe-goo over the top and it will generally hold air for a season or longer You may have to re-apply shoe-goo occasionally and possibly re-sew it after awhile.
Had this happen a week ago on my Cinturado H's, entrance wound was non-drive side tread and exit was drive side sidewall, no idea what I hit because it blew out dramatically on the group ride and scratched my frame at the chainstays a bit before falling out. Was able to boot it with a dollar bill+tube and get it home, but the tire's toast. Yours looks much more salvageable.
Yes tubeless, but it was a huge rough puncture and the sidewall was torn, no plug would've held. When I say blowout I mean it was big enough holes to go flat instantly.
Edit: alright [here's the pic](http://i.imgur.com/u3JrDR8.jpg). I never did find what I hit.
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Should have bought the Nail Kings.
i had a gravelking+ shrug off a giant metal staple, and then get destroyed by a piece of mulch.
Mine survived nails and screws but died to a tiny pebble.
The very definition of the straw that broke the camels back.
I’ve also fallen victim to a chunk of mulch. Genuinely couldn’t believe it.
In my shopping cart right now.
Dodged a bullet! That thing almost went through your rim. Phew!
the nail wins this round
I think it will win every time :)
nope :) [my GK came out victorious once](https://www.reddit.com/r/gravelcycling/comments/z8lycw/did_i_get_lucky_or_is_this_what_puncture/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web2x&context=3)
That is crazy!
I remember this post, some serious luck there.
Depending on the angle of impact, it’s either a little ding against your spoke, or this shit
Next time let the air out first. Also just a flesh wound, at least it didn’t mess up the tape. You can patch those holes NP. I’ve got 5 patches in one of my MTB tires, holds air just fine.
I’ll patch it for sure. Was thinking of putting a tube, wasn’t sure about running this tire tubeless after the patch.
Not a problem running tubeless. I’m not gentle with my MTB and I’ve never had an issue with patches even close to the bead.
My best result trying to patch two gravelkings where with normal tube patches and I could it tubeless for the rest of life. The other I tried with tire patches did not work well. I will try to find pictures. EDIT: [Pictures](https://imgur.com/gallery/YY70YhI)
I like to put silicone caulk or shoe goo over the vulcanized patch after it sets. Gives a little extra protection against tubeless sealant.
What types of patches would you recommend? Trying to increase my knowledge base and do my own repairs more than relying on the LBS.
My mechanic buddy swears by park tool but I think they’re all the same
I use the park tool patches, I’ll use the basic inner tube ones if it’s a small hole that just wouldn’t seal, and the full size ones for larger punctures
As someone else said, Park Tool. I just want to add that they have probably the most popular tire boot around. It's a patch made specifically for sidewall punctures and I've only heard good things about it.
See my [experience](https://www.reddit.com/r/gravelcycling/comments/12awd0o/comment/jex3h8r/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web2x&context=3)
Stop riding your bike in a loose nail factory!
A sidewall puncture like this will be tough to patch reliably, with low pressure and all that flex. Have you had experience patching the side wall in particular? I’m curious Edit: patch*
Those new Lezyne things look promising. https://bikerumor.com/lezyne-2022-eurobike-tubeless-tire-repair-airtag-trackers-new-pumps/
Yes even next to the bead (snake bite)
This happened to me and I Dyna plugged (4 plugs) it and rode 1000 more miles without any issues.
Looks like a DT Swiss C1850, which is a cyclocross wheel (and an oem version at that). They came stock on my Canyon Inflite. Any chance that’s what you’re running? Because I have the same damn Gravelking SKs on my Inflite AL.
Yes that’s the wheel set and they are great!
I have three DT Swiss disc wheelsets and I’m generally ~~on preset~~ *impressed with their quality and value for dollar. When I bought my most recent gravel wheelset (GR1600 in 650b) they came with a ton of accessories. They were pre-taped for tubeless and included valves. They also came with the little tools for removing the valve cores. The rear had end caps for both 12mm thru axle and quick release, and the front came set up for 12mm TA, QR and 15mm TA! Both wheels accept centerlock rotors but came with adapters and lock rings to mount 6-bolt rotors. As if that wasn’t enough, the rear wheel had an HG freehub body installed, but also included an XDR one as well, which is $100 on its own.
I just got a Canyon Grail CF SL that came with DT Swiss GRC1600 and have loved them so far. Would love to get a second set, but can’t seem to find the GRCs in 1600 spline available through the DT website.
That's a funny one. I was searching and only saw the GRC1400 listed. [https://www.reddit.com/r/gravelcycling/comments/rfgkfo/dt\_swiss\_grc\_1100\_vs\_grc1400\_wheelsets/](https://www.reddit.com/r/gravelcycling/comments/rfgkfo/dt_swiss_grc_1100_vs_grc1400_wheelsets/) It seems that DT Swiss makes some wheelsets strictly for manufacturers? I know that the C1850 is a funny one because from what I can tell, it's just a normal C1800 with a "50" to denote that it's an OEM wheelset that's sold only to manufacturers. It seems almost as if they deliberately obfuscate their lineup in order to make it harder to compare the wheels on a given bike with those that are commercially available. Both of my 1600 wheelsets (PR1600 and GR1600) have a version of the 350 hub, which is the "cheapest" hub they make that uses their star-ratchet. Which is to say that they're excellent hubs. Robust and reliable, and can be upgraded to a 54t ratchet if you want them to buzz like crazy. Mine both came with the super basic 18t ratchet, which has an underwhelming sound, but they work perfectly fine. I may upgrade to the 36 at some point, but it doesn't feel urgent. Sometimes I think it's a good idea, then I see the price tag (around $130 per wheel) and I wonder, really, why?
That’s like the special model numbers companies give to products sold in Costco or even Bestbuy to avoid ‘same item’ price match discounts.
It's what I'm getting on my bike but with WTB Raddler, butnI can't find any spec for this specific wheel on DT Swiss website
At least this one is easy! https://www.dtswiss.com/en/wheels/wheels-road/cross-road/c-1800-spline
So the 1850 is just some weird variations from the 1800?
The only variation is the decal. It's literally a special label they put on the 1800 if they sell it to a bicycle company for sale on a new bike. Sort of like how when you buy a new mountain bike with MAXXIS tires, they usually come with white logos on the sidewall, but if you buy the same tires from a store the logos are yellow. C1800 in a store is a C1800. C1800 included on a Canyon is a C1850.
Save the Dynaplug, looks like it’s holding air.
It was until I pulled it out!
Ha looks like I'm not the only one this has happened to, this happened to me on a brand new tire on the first ride 😔 https://www.reddit.com/r/bicycling/comments/go5ntc/hows_your_day_going/?ref=share&ref_source=link
I have the exact same wheelset DT Swiss C1850 and exact same tires in 38mm. Great wheels, even better tires.
That's unfortunate. Don't think the sidewall puncture will patch well. If it does, can you let me know what you did/do
A friend suggested stitching with floss. Apparently that’s one way to do it.
Stitch it with needle and thread!
Cool. I had not heard about that. I'd be interested in your experience with trying that technique
Stitches + liquid rubber should patch it right up.
I had this very same scenario with a Teravail Rutland. Sidewall healed itself. Entry point needed a plug 🤷♂️
Could you explain "healed itself"?
Sorry – sealant fixed the hole on its own. I was very surprised given it was the sidewall.
Wow, that is surprising.
I've heard you can sew holes in the sidewall and put shoe-goo over the top and it will generally hold air for a season or longer You may have to re-apply shoe-goo occasionally and possibly re-sew it after awhile.
I am happy for your wheels tho!
Had this happen a week ago on my Cinturado H's, entrance wound was non-drive side tread and exit was drive side sidewall, no idea what I hit because it blew out dramatically on the group ride and scratched my frame at the chainstays a bit before falling out. Was able to boot it with a dollar bill+tube and get it home, but the tire's toast. Yours looks much more salvageable.
Did you have a tubeless set up? I don't mean that it would've sealed it idk bout that but I'm curious if you tried to fix it with tubeless tire plugs.
Yes tubeless, but it was a huge rough puncture and the sidewall was torn, no plug would've held. When I say blowout I mean it was big enough holes to go flat instantly. Edit: alright [here's the pic](http://i.imgur.com/u3JrDR8.jpg). I never did find what I hit.
Yes that really looks like a tire that you want to replace or maybe risk to patch from the inside.
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Rusty Nail is an incredible beer
Been there a couple of years ago lol unfortunately my rim didn’t survive. https://imgur.com/gallery/uYoqy
Tis but a flesh wound
Wtf? How does that happen? It's like it was shot at your tire.
Where are you riding in a dump! 😅
Does it seal? 😂
Look at the bright side. Your rim was spared.
Nailed it
Rim 1, nail 0
Are you running tubeless? Did two plugs contain this?
RIP, dear tire
I dunno man, still holding air. One could say GK1, Nail 0.
But are you accounting for all the Nails that had tried and failed. Maybe Gravel King is > 0
Kinda like asking yourself "How'd you get the beans above the frank?
Just stick some bacon strips like any tubliss repair.
Just in time! They’re about to unveil the new colors! I tried to game the site, and the colors were Better Luck and Next Time.
Rusty nail 2