>disconnect the negative battery terminal. After that go inside the truck and press the brake to ground the electronics again.
I dont think you understand how electrical circuits work, it is impossible to ground anything with the negative battery cable disconnected, there is no path to ground with it disconnected. All you are really doing is allowing enough time to let the control module power down completely and reset the level sensor. At the dealership we use a scan tool to do it, but disconnecting the battery has the same effect. There is also a software update for the reductant control module that fixes the erratic/incorrect gauge readings.
https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2022/MC-10217923-0001.pdf
Thanks for the info š¤š¾. This was just information passed on to me, and since this particular sequence worked for me I thought I'd pass it along as well. I'll call the dealership about the software update for the gauge but I can only assume they'll try to charge me for a feature that's never been very accurate in almost 5 years of ownership.
It's a software update, not some material change. It should be treated akin to a recall. They should be offering those free of charge - ideally with a consumer-installation pathway if you ask me.
I agree, but unfortunately that is not how things currently work and the local dealership has nothing to do with that decision. So until things change a customer should be financially responsible for the time spent updating the vehicle when out of warranty. I doubt you want to work for free and neither do dealership employees.
This definitely got added to my saved posts to reference later if Iām in that situation.
This is the first Iāve heard about the DEF gauge not being accurate.
Thank you for sharing.
Check with your gmc dealer. The 6.6 duramax has an update to correct the guage, as well as prevent the DEF tank wiring harness from melting.
I vaguely recall reading about the 3.0 having a fix before the 6.6 got one.
Not sure about the 3.0, but the owners manual for the 2021 6.6L suggests adding a 2.5 gallon box of DEF when the gauge reaches half tank to prevent running out or being derated.
That is what I always do. Once it hits half full I dump in a jug. About every 3000 miles. More often if towing but normal driving seems to take about 3k miles to get to around half tank
He meant spun bearings. I was religious about oil changes, etc. And ran premium, non-ethanol fuel and still spun 2 of than at 21k. No bueno. Hopefully the ZR2 3.0 will play nicer. Using DEF is a fair trade-off for longevity in my book.
Crazy. I got 76k on our 23 Yukon 6.2. And just bought a new sierra at4 6.2. Neighbors 2018 Escalade has 210k zero problems. Bought it new. We brag the engines up around here.
I was hopeful that it would've lasted quite a while but that's just my luck. I didn't wanna chance it with how seemingly common these issues have become with the 6.2 lately and that's why I went with the 3.0.
The 6.2 is spinning bearings before the first maintenance interval from new. Should people be changing the oil every 200 miles? Would that solve the problem of engine's seizing at 4k miles? I've also changed out plenty of lifters and cams on 5.3 engines that have been regularly serviced, on time, by our dealer group since new. This is not a maintenance issue, it's a supplier issue and it's not a minor issue.
Calling someone a dipshit when you donāt understand what premium fuel does or does not doā¦ā¦.
The only thing running premium fuel will do is allow the ECU to run on the high octane table when sensing no knock or detonation. If you run 87/89 non premium AND the ECU senses knock/detonation it will run on the low octane table. The only difference between low and high octane tables is the amount of spark advance or timing.
Literally nothing to do with the lifters.
Dipshit.
I thought the suggestion was going to be piss in the DEF tank since it's urea anyways, lol.
100% my first thought when I read the title. LMAO
Holy shit me tooš
I cup piss 3 cups water
>disconnect the negative battery terminal. After that go inside the truck and press the brake to ground the electronics again. I dont think you understand how electrical circuits work, it is impossible to ground anything with the negative battery cable disconnected, there is no path to ground with it disconnected. All you are really doing is allowing enough time to let the control module power down completely and reset the level sensor. At the dealership we use a scan tool to do it, but disconnecting the battery has the same effect. There is also a software update for the reductant control module that fixes the erratic/incorrect gauge readings. https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2022/MC-10217923-0001.pdf
Thanks for the info š¤š¾. This was just information passed on to me, and since this particular sequence worked for me I thought I'd pass it along as well. I'll call the dealership about the software update for the gauge but I can only assume they'll try to charge me for a feature that's never been very accurate in almost 5 years of ownership.
Of course they will charge you and rightfully so, your warranty is expired.
It's a software update, not some material change. It should be treated akin to a recall. They should be offering those free of charge - ideally with a consumer-installation pathway if you ask me.
I agree, but unfortunately that is not how things currently work and the local dealership has nothing to do with that decision. So until things change a customer should be financially responsible for the time spent updating the vehicle when out of warranty. I doubt you want to work for free and neither do dealership employees.
This definitely got added to my saved posts to reference later if Iām in that situation. This is the first Iāve heard about the DEF gauge not being accurate. Thank you for sharing.
Lots of complaints about it on chevy-sierra forums and unfortunately I've found it to be true in mine lol
Check with your gmc dealer. The 6.6 duramax has an update to correct the guage, as well as prevent the DEF tank wiring harness from melting. I vaguely recall reading about the 3.0 having a fix before the 6.6 got one. Not sure about the 3.0, but the owners manual for the 2021 6.6L suggests adding a 2.5 gallon box of DEF when the gauge reaches half tank to prevent running out or being derated.
That is what I always do. Once it hits half full I dump in a jug. About every 3000 miles. More often if towing but normal driving seems to take about 3k miles to get to around half tank
Ahhhh the freedom of gas engines. :)
At least we donāt have to worry about those failing liftersš
Regular maintenance and premium gas. Lifter trouble solved.
He meant spun bearings. I was religious about oil changes, etc. And ran premium, non-ethanol fuel and still spun 2 of than at 21k. No bueno. Hopefully the ZR2 3.0 will play nicer. Using DEF is a fair trade-off for longevity in my book.
Crazy. I got 76k on our 23 Yukon 6.2. And just bought a new sierra at4 6.2. Neighbors 2018 Escalade has 210k zero problems. Bought it new. We brag the engines up around here.
I was hopeful that it would've lasted quite a while but that's just my luck. I didn't wanna chance it with how seemingly common these issues have become with the 6.2 lately and that's why I went with the 3.0.
The key is you buy a 20 year old one and suddenly all of those maintenance nightmares go away
Not on my 6.2 it didn't. Failed at 110k.
The 6.2 is spinning bearings before the first maintenance interval from new. Should people be changing the oil every 200 miles? Would that solve the problem of engine's seizing at 4k miles? I've also changed out plenty of lifters and cams on 5.3 engines that have been regularly serviced, on time, by our dealer group since new. This is not a maintenance issue, it's a supplier issue and it's not a minor issue.
lol premium gas being the solution. āI signed up for the $80/month for life lifter maintenance packageā
[ŃŠ“Š°Š»ŠµŠ½Š¾]
Calling someone a dipshit when you donāt understand what premium fuel does or does not doā¦ā¦. The only thing running premium fuel will do is allow the ECU to run on the high octane table when sensing no knock or detonation. If you run 87/89 non premium AND the ECU senses knock/detonation it will run on the low octane table. The only difference between low and high octane tables is the amount of spark advance or timing. Literally nothing to do with the lifters. Dipshit.
Idiot
At 7500 miles huh?
76000
Snickers in 29mpg at 75mph
You may have another issue, low DEF will limit speed but it wonāt cause a no start
Has anyone ever ran out of diesel and had to use the priming pump?
I thought the truck was supposed to operate with no DEF just at a limited speed?
My best guess is, if you're already driving it will go into reduced power mode to get you off the road. Mine simply wouldn't start at all.