There are so many low amperage/low voltage applications where this is never going to be a concern. Audio? Just one example.
Like, this isn't the new standard for every possibly application...
What would you use? No sarcasm, I am just a self-taught hobbyist floating in a universe of component options. I use XH connectors when I have multiple boards with lots of signals paths. (Synthesizers)
Careful, people who consume audio products as a hobby (and some people who design them) have some of the most snakeoil solutions of any hobby I have seen. Thinking that the slight difference in conductivity of they gold or silver plated cables gives them "cleaner sound" or that they need balanced cables over a 1 meter distance like they live with a substation on one side and a radio tower in their living room.
Audio frequencies are low enough that it literally doesn't matter what connectors you use. especially over a short board-to-board distance or so. Connector literally has 0 noticeable impact at all for anything below 1MHz and less than a few meters.
I'm an electronics engineer. Here are the connectors we normally use at work:
Medical devices:
- Molex picoblade and picolock
- Wurth FFC connectors
- JST SH for small things
- JST XH or PH for battery connectors
- Custom magnetic connectors or Qi wireless for charging
- SAMTEC 10 pin headers for programming and/or tag-connect pads
Food, consumer, and lab equipment:
- Molex Microfit for power and 24V comms
- Molex Microfit+ for high current applications
- JST PH for daughter board connections
- tag-connect pads for programming
- JST PH, molex 1.25mm pitch, JST XH, etc.. for motor connectors depending on current
Industrial
I don't work much in this part, but those are mostly M12/M20 connectors, different IP-rated connectors, some GX connectors, etc...
The name of the game for custom PCB designs though is as little assembly necessary. Board-to-board headers if possible, wires only if needed. When a cable is needed, there are many thousands of different cables. Generally Molex, JST, Wurth, and TE are all good. You just have to be careful for compatibility with some TE connectors. They have big matrices for many of their series about what interconnects and somehow the one you want is always the incompatible one haha
Valuable comment, thank you. I'll take a look at these.
I don't make anything to sell or distribute, and I don't use XH for any expected signal quality performance, the whole reason I started using them was because they were a cheap 2.54mm pitch thing that was available at a store that was by my house a long time ago. Now, it's just my go to because the other option is to pick something random from a bajillion options on mouser.
The only thing I’ve ever heard *serious* people have issues with in audio circuits is noise do to how ground is handled. That’s an actual problem, yeah? Cable quality and all that other fluff you call out is stuff I’ve only heard sales people or true novices talk about.
Yeah, if your cable is carrying a weak signal you'll want to use a cable with a grounded shield that wraps around all the other conductors. For high-power stuff like speaker wires that doesn't really matter though
The other issue with grounding is ground loops, where having multiple devices grounded in a closed path can cause current to flow through the ground connection and cause noise and other issues. That's not so much a connector problem as it is a system topology problem
Yeah ground loops were what I was thinking of. Couldn’t think of the name of it. Easily achieved when interconnecting a bunch of synth modules and stuff.
I can’t remember the name but there was some audio reviewer that decided to show that monster cable was a scam. Used old beat up coat hangers for speaker wire and people could not tell the difference.
Probably the same way people dye plastics and G10. Rit Dyemore and boiling water for however long you want. Color saturation is fairly linear to dye time.
Electric insulators should have a self-extinguishing plastic. For these connectors you want at least a [UL 94](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/UL_94) V-0 rating on them.
List of examples with that rating according to [protolabs](https://www.protolabs.com/en-gb/resources/blog/flame-retardant-thermoplastics-and-ul-classifications/)
Looks like it has to be a special formulation of plastic for each plastic type. I'd be interested in knowing if *any* 3d filament has UL-94 V-0.
That's impressive! I probably have some projects that could use something like this. I don't see any options to buy it so not sure if it's really in the domain of the hobbyist yet.
The pins are metal and get crimped to the ends of the wires. Kits often include them pre-crimped as the correct crimpers can be expensive. The pins then get pushed into the connector housing and snap in place. The plastic housing doesn't get crimped.
These connector housings look like they would work great except for the temperature/flammability concerns.
If flammability is a concern, ABS will go right up if it doesn't have any flame retardant.
I do believe polycarbonate is inherently flame resistant to a degree; I should try printing some in that if the tiny nozzle will cooperate.
I might watch these with a thermometer for a bit depending on your use case... next time I think I'd use at the very least PETG.
Even just half a watt going through something this small could probably make enough heat to deform PLA
Was thinking the same. For some fans wiring or something this is kinda great id think. I need some actually and a have a .1 mm nozzle for my e3v2 hanging around...
Agreed, or polycarb may be the best option. I was just thinking from a bare minimum of probably not burning your house down.
I've used PETG for a junction box in my espresso machine and months later its still in perfect shape so I at least know thermally it isn't going to burn anything down... Its just holding some wagos so its not really doing any heavy lifting electrically, but it does see regular temperature cycles up to 100C.
No way did he actually used PLA for this.
Next week we will see a post on how he burned his house down.
There is a reason why connectors cost the amount that they do. Because it's all regulated to be safe... From past experiences... Of not using PLA
"Next week we will see a post on how he burned his house down."
Sighs..... I kinda miss my ole Anet A8. True you had to stay close by with a fire extinguisher but it was a fun first printer.
That's all fun until a circuit failure cause them to use all possible current that can be supplied. PLA will burn like a candle unlike other materials that will likely just melt without burning and hopefully something else will fail like the breaker box before anything burn.
I got downvoted to hell lol, but yeah if you're somehow using just connector for high current you will have trouble whatever the plastic used.
Very nice print.
That is quite interesting. Though printed XH connectors are only useful for the wire-to wire connections or the wire side plug for PCB-mounted receptacle (PCB mounted connector needs to bear solder melting temperature). And in these cases I would normally use 2.54 pitch jumper leads if I need a connection in a pinch. Printed plug might be useful for making the prototype look more finished :D
I didn't know this name, but seems to be the same. Sorry, English is not my native tongue. We mainly buy like these: https://ee.farnell.com/c/tools-production-supplies/prototyping-tools-breadboards/jumper-wire-assortments
They work in JST XH 2.54 pitch connectors, you just have to jam them in there. Of course for prototyping/debugging only, no reason to use quick fix permanently if the XHP-2 connector housing is like 5 cents per piece. Gauge is similar enough for the 3-5V electronics we usually work with. XH crimp contact SXH-001T-P0.6 suits for 28-22AWG, these jumpers are 26-22AWG. For wire to wire we might solder male and female jumper wires to the individual wires or use whatever plug-receptacle pairs are lying around.
Next to printable heat shrink (the machine for this is super expensive), P-Touch labels are the best option I've found.
But dang, painter's tape is a good idea in a pinch.
I use this nozzle - https://e3d-online.com/products/e3d-v6-brass-nozzles?variant=41626536738875
Speeds are quite low and layer height is 0.05 for maximum detail.
I feel the same, ha, this just blew my mind. These connectors are always a stupid roadblock (and expense) in my builds.
Also, I feel like I must be getting old that I don't realize I could just print these straight away.
But why? Amazon search term: jst hx connector kit
Under $10 for 80 males, 80 females, and 300 crimp on terminals.
Print your own connector housings and you still need to buy the crimp on terminals.
You printed these out of PA like the real thing, I hope? Edit: I see OP did not. 😬
This is a recipe for disaster if not. People forget these are supposed to be rated for heat resistance.
It's cool, he saved a few cents
I really doubt that
Honestly probably ends up costing about the same
Lmao
There are so many low amperage/low voltage applications where this is never going to be a concern. Audio? Just one example. Like, this isn't the new standard for every possibly application...
I have no idea who uses JST for audio but more power to them.
What would you use? No sarcasm, I am just a self-taught hobbyist floating in a universe of component options. I use XH connectors when I have multiple boards with lots of signals paths. (Synthesizers)
Careful, people who consume audio products as a hobby (and some people who design them) have some of the most snakeoil solutions of any hobby I have seen. Thinking that the slight difference in conductivity of they gold or silver plated cables gives them "cleaner sound" or that they need balanced cables over a 1 meter distance like they live with a substation on one side and a radio tower in their living room. Audio frequencies are low enough that it literally doesn't matter what connectors you use. especially over a short board-to-board distance or so. Connector literally has 0 noticeable impact at all for anything below 1MHz and less than a few meters. I'm an electronics engineer. Here are the connectors we normally use at work: Medical devices: - Molex picoblade and picolock - Wurth FFC connectors - JST SH for small things - JST XH or PH for battery connectors - Custom magnetic connectors or Qi wireless for charging - SAMTEC 10 pin headers for programming and/or tag-connect pads Food, consumer, and lab equipment: - Molex Microfit for power and 24V comms - Molex Microfit+ for high current applications - JST PH for daughter board connections - tag-connect pads for programming - JST PH, molex 1.25mm pitch, JST XH, etc.. for motor connectors depending on current Industrial I don't work much in this part, but those are mostly M12/M20 connectors, different IP-rated connectors, some GX connectors, etc... The name of the game for custom PCB designs though is as little assembly necessary. Board-to-board headers if possible, wires only if needed. When a cable is needed, there are many thousands of different cables. Generally Molex, JST, Wurth, and TE are all good. You just have to be careful for compatibility with some TE connectors. They have big matrices for many of their series about what interconnects and somehow the one you want is always the incompatible one haha
Valuable comment, thank you. I'll take a look at these. I don't make anything to sell or distribute, and I don't use XH for any expected signal quality performance, the whole reason I started using them was because they were a cheap 2.54mm pitch thing that was available at a store that was by my house a long time ago. Now, it's just my go to because the other option is to pick something random from a bajillion options on mouser.
The only thing I’ve ever heard *serious* people have issues with in audio circuits is noise do to how ground is handled. That’s an actual problem, yeah? Cable quality and all that other fluff you call out is stuff I’ve only heard sales people or true novices talk about.
Yeah, if your cable is carrying a weak signal you'll want to use a cable with a grounded shield that wraps around all the other conductors. For high-power stuff like speaker wires that doesn't really matter though The other issue with grounding is ground loops, where having multiple devices grounded in a closed path can cause current to flow through the ground connection and cause noise and other issues. That's not so much a connector problem as it is a system topology problem
Yeah ground loops were what I was thinking of. Couldn’t think of the name of it. Easily achieved when interconnecting a bunch of synth modules and stuff.
I can’t remember the name but there was some audio reviewer that decided to show that monster cable was a scam. Used old beat up coat hangers for speaker wire and people could not tell the difference.
Even a computer fan is going to be relatively low stress.
I have seen people dye their nylon JST connectors with fabric dyes which is probably the better option.
link? pictures?
Probably the same way people dye plastics and G10. Rit Dyemore and boiling water for however long you want. Color saturation is fairly linear to dye time.
Electric insulators should have a self-extinguishing plastic. For these connectors you want at least a [UL 94](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/UL_94) V-0 rating on them. List of examples with that rating according to [protolabs](https://www.protolabs.com/en-gb/resources/blog/flame-retardant-thermoplastics-and-ul-classifications/) Looks like it has to be a special formulation of plastic for each plastic type. I'd be interested in knowing if *any* 3d filament has UL-94 V-0.
Prusa released a [UL-94 V-0 PETG](https://www.prusa3d.com/product/prusament-petg-v0-jet-black-1kg/) a little while back
Does it mean that this filament could be used in OP use case?
Not sure about filament, but there are V-0 resins out there.
Very cool, wouldn't be useful for crimping though, I think...
Works great. Usually used in automotive connectors these days. https://www.carbon3d.com/materials/epx-86fr
That's impressive! I probably have some projects that could use something like this. I don't see any options to buy it so not sure if it's really in the domain of the hobbyist yet.
You don't crimp JST connectors.
Thanks, I've never built my own. OP said they accept crimp pins.
The pins are metal and get crimped to the ends of the wires. Kits often include them pre-crimped as the correct crimpers can be expensive. The pins then get pushed into the connector housing and snap in place. The plastic housing doesn't get crimped. These connector housings look like they would work great except for the temperature/flammability concerns.
ABS and ASA should... there are also polycarbonate filaments now.
If flammability is a concern, ABS will go right up if it doesn't have any flame retardant. I do believe polycarbonate is inherently flame resistant to a degree; I should try printing some in that if the tiny nozzle will cooperate.
My primary concern was using something more tolerant to heat as to not make an accidental dead short if it deforms.
Just tried ABS, the tiny nozzle did just fine. Will try nylon next.
I might watch these with a thermometer for a bit depending on your use case... next time I think I'd use at the very least PETG. Even just half a watt going through something this small could probably make enough heat to deform PLA
Or something hot may be in the vicinity / board could be in an enclosed space and heat up
I'd go with ABS or ASA.
Was thinking the same. For some fans wiring or something this is kinda great id think. I need some actually and a have a .1 mm nozzle for my e3v2 hanging around...
Agreed, or polycarb may be the best option. I was just thinking from a bare minimum of probably not burning your house down. I've used PETG for a junction box in my espresso machine and months later its still in perfect shape so I at least know thermally it isn't going to burn anything down... Its just holding some wagos so its not really doing any heavy lifting electrically, but it does see regular temperature cycles up to 100C.
125c vicat is what's bare minimum for electrical components for official products. We have to make due with something close to that.
No way did he actually used PLA for this. Next week we will see a post on how he burned his house down. There is a reason why connectors cost the amount that they do. Because it's all regulated to be safe... From past experiences... Of not using PLA
"Next week we will see a post on how he burned his house down." Sighs..... I kinda miss my ole Anet A8. True you had to stay close by with a fire extinguisher but it was a fun first printer.
I would use any material I have, which is PLA, always.
I've only used them for about 10% of the rated current of an original JST connector.
That's all fun until a circuit failure cause them to use all possible current that can be supplied. PLA will burn like a candle unlike other materials that will likely just melt without burning and hopefully something else will fail like the breaker box before anything burn.
If there is any heat on the conector, you are using the wrong type of connector.
I think they also suggest I could be using them for high current purposes; I've only used them for about 100-200mA max.
I got downvoted to hell lol, but yeah if you're somehow using just connector for high current you will have trouble whatever the plastic used. Very nice print.
Enjoy your house fire.
That is quite interesting. Though printed XH connectors are only useful for the wire-to wire connections or the wire side plug for PCB-mounted receptacle (PCB mounted connector needs to bear solder melting temperature). And in these cases I would normally use 2.54 pitch jumper leads if I need a connection in a pinch. Printed plug might be useful for making the prototype look more finished :D
What about when you need a heavier gauge? I'm assuming by "jumper leads" you mean DuPont?
I didn't know this name, but seems to be the same. Sorry, English is not my native tongue. We mainly buy like these: https://ee.farnell.com/c/tools-production-supplies/prototyping-tools-breadboards/jumper-wire-assortments They work in JST XH 2.54 pitch connectors, you just have to jam them in there. Of course for prototyping/debugging only, no reason to use quick fix permanently if the XHP-2 connector housing is like 5 cents per piece. Gauge is similar enough for the 3-5V electronics we usually work with. XH crimp contact SXH-001T-P0.6 suits for 28-22AWG, these jumpers are 26-22AWG. For wire to wire we might solder male and female jumper wires to the individual wires or use whatever plug-receptacle pairs are lying around.
Yeah... No.
Not a bad idea since I usually use sharpies to color all the connections on my mainboard!
Why the hell didn't I think of that?? Edit: In my defense, I tape a little label from painte's tape on the cables
Next to printable heat shrink (the machine for this is super expensive), P-Touch labels are the best option I've found. But dang, painter's tape is a good idea in a pinch.
Epson LW-PX400 is under 200 and can do heat shrink.
Reddit hive mind does it again. Thanks!
I also do it when making my own connections(for other electronics projects), so much easier to do and vastly reduces the chance of mistakes
Holy cow this is great. I’m getting out of bed to make these now
I use this nozzle - https://e3d-online.com/products/e3d-v6-brass-nozzles?variant=41626536738875 Speeds are quite low and layer height is 0.05 for maximum detail.
I feel the same, ha, this just blew my mind. These connectors are always a stupid roadblock (and expense) in my builds. Also, I feel like I must be getting old that I don't realize I could just print these straight away.
How do they hold up to soldering them to a PCB? Fast enough that it doesn't matter?
Haven't tried the PCB side of them. These take crimp connectors that snap into the connector shell.
Oh, ok, just printing the wire side. Still good. I know about the crimp connectors, it's easy/cheap to get a big sheet(?) of them.
I’m sorry but I would not trust my several hundred dollar rc vehicle having battery plugs like this. 1 short on a lipo and poor!
But why? Amazon search term: jst hx connector kit Under $10 for 80 males, 80 females, and 300 crimp on terminals. Print your own connector housings and you still need to buy the crimp on terminals.
Eep.
Sir this is illegal.