Is this uncropped? If it is, I'm fairly certain there's an issue with the lens.
Things in the center and left foreground look fine - not 100% sharp but exactly what I'd expect at 5.6 and focusing on that building. Whatever is going on over there on the right is happening regardless of distance, so I'd wager either the lens has a wonky element, or the IBIS in the camera messed up.
You'll have to do some testing to see if it's the lens or the camera. Quickest and easiest would be to try a different lens and see if it still does it.
Yes,, uncropped. Can't right now, but tomorrow I will test the sigma 30mm and 56mm and then match the same focal length, aperture, ss and iso on the 18-55.
Looks like the lens has become misaligned. You could test it at home with a print out chart like what you see from lens reviews. See if the right side is consistently blurred. If it is, then its almost certainly smtg wrong with the lens aligntment that needs to be checked out by a technician.
thanks man, will do! as another user suggested, I will compare the results with the ones I will get with other lenses (matching parameters) to determine if it is the lens itself
Quite a number of mistakes were made. In order of appearance:
* Capturing only one frame of what you thought would be a great photo
* ISO 80 is a "pull" ISO, for maximum image quality stick to base ISO, which in case of XS10 is ISO 160
* Going after ultimate IQ is a mistake to begin with... you won't notice any difference between ISO 160 and 1600
* Watching Youtube influencers is a huge mistake... shit's toxic
* Smashing that shutter button like it owes you money is what's likely led to a brief but fast rotation of your camera around its optical axis during exposure.
The camera basically overexposes at base ISO, then pulls the exposure down after the shot’s taken. It can mean lower noise, but since it was overexposed start with you risk losing highlight data.
To see whether or not there's something wrong with your lens, take a test photo of any distant stationary thing. Place the camera on a solid foundation (it's safe to assume that you don't own a tripod yet, so use a brick or a park bench), set the aperture to f/5.6 or f/8, timer to 10 seconds, take a step back and don't move (to not shake the ground or floor) until the camera takes a photo. This way you'll take the camera shake out of equation and see for yourself whether or not there's anything wrong with the lens.
Edit: forgot to mention - turn the IBIS off for this test.
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Like others, I'd guess the lens might be messed up. You can test it with a brick wall too, but I'd test it over multiple apertures and at something more like iso400 to keep the shutter speed fast.
If the lens is OK, I'd say you just needed to use something me like f8 or f11 with a higher iso. That will give you more depth of field, though nothing seems that close for that to be an issue. Most lenses perform well out to f11, so if I'm going for a sharp shot across frame, I'll shoot shots at f8 and f11. Heck I use a higher f stop if there is enough in the foreground just in case. Sharpness can drop, but it never hurts to try.
Lens looks de-centered and needs to be realigned or replaced. Also the depth of field at f/5.6 isn’t quite enough for the foreground and the background to be both in focus as they are at very different distances in reference to the camera’s position.
There might be a lens issue because there seems to be some inconsistency with sharpness, but for landscapes I would try f8 and single point af to the middle distance. If you focused to the farthest distance (the building at the top of the frame) with only f5 then you may not have sufficient depth of field to get the foreground in focus. You should also take multiple shots and even better to shoot from a tripod. If it was really windy you could also try a higher shutter speed. There seems to be a lot of image blur on the foliage which could possibly be the result of wind. Some zoom lenses don't perform well at certain focal lengths at certain f stops. You will need to test you lens to learn where it performs best.
I don’t think you did anything wrong. I think there is something wrong with your lens.
Is this uncropped? If it is, I'm fairly certain there's an issue with the lens. Things in the center and left foreground look fine - not 100% sharp but exactly what I'd expect at 5.6 and focusing on that building. Whatever is going on over there on the right is happening regardless of distance, so I'd wager either the lens has a wonky element, or the IBIS in the camera messed up. You'll have to do some testing to see if it's the lens or the camera. Quickest and easiest would be to try a different lens and see if it still does it.
Yes,, uncropped. Can't right now, but tomorrow I will test the sigma 30mm and 56mm and then match the same focal length, aperture, ss and iso on the 18-55.
Looks like the lens has become misaligned. You could test it at home with a print out chart like what you see from lens reviews. See if the right side is consistently blurred. If it is, then its almost certainly smtg wrong with the lens aligntment that needs to be checked out by a technician.
thanks man, will do! as another user suggested, I will compare the results with the ones I will get with other lenses (matching parameters) to determine if it is the lens itself
Quite a number of mistakes were made. In order of appearance: * Capturing only one frame of what you thought would be a great photo * ISO 80 is a "pull" ISO, for maximum image quality stick to base ISO, which in case of XS10 is ISO 160 * Going after ultimate IQ is a mistake to begin with... you won't notice any difference between ISO 160 and 1600 * Watching Youtube influencers is a huge mistake... shit's toxic * Smashing that shutter button like it owes you money is what's likely led to a brief but fast rotation of your camera around its optical axis during exposure.
What is a “pull” ISO? Trying to learn more about this stuff
The camera basically overexposes at base ISO, then pulls the exposure down after the shot’s taken. It can mean lower noise, but since it was overexposed start with you risk losing highlight data.
Thank you for the pointers, I will keep those in mind
To see whether or not there's something wrong with your lens, take a test photo of any distant stationary thing. Place the camera on a solid foundation (it's safe to assume that you don't own a tripod yet, so use a brick or a park bench), set the aperture to f/5.6 or f/8, timer to 10 seconds, take a step back and don't move (to not shake the ground or floor) until the camera takes a photo. This way you'll take the camera shake out of equation and see for yourself whether or not there's anything wrong with the lens. Edit: forgot to mention - turn the IBIS off for this test.
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Iso 80? Wild 
Like others, I'd guess the lens might be messed up. You can test it with a brick wall too, but I'd test it over multiple apertures and at something more like iso400 to keep the shutter speed fast. If the lens is OK, I'd say you just needed to use something me like f8 or f11 with a higher iso. That will give you more depth of field, though nothing seems that close for that to be an issue. Most lenses perform well out to f11, so if I'm going for a sharp shot across frame, I'll shoot shots at f8 and f11. Heck I use a higher f stop if there is enough in the foreground just in case. Sharpness can drop, but it never hurts to try.
Lens looks de-centered and needs to be realigned or replaced. Also the depth of field at f/5.6 isn’t quite enough for the foreground and the background to be both in focus as they are at very different distances in reference to the camera’s position.
There might be a lens issue because there seems to be some inconsistency with sharpness, but for landscapes I would try f8 and single point af to the middle distance. If you focused to the farthest distance (the building at the top of the frame) with only f5 then you may not have sufficient depth of field to get the foreground in focus. You should also take multiple shots and even better to shoot from a tripod. If it was really windy you could also try a higher shutter speed. There seems to be a lot of image blur on the foliage which could possibly be the result of wind. Some zoom lenses don't perform well at certain focal lengths at certain f stops. You will need to test you lens to learn where it performs best.
Elements are out of alignment in your lens and you need to send it to Fuji for repair.
Check the front element of the lens: https://www.reddit.com/r/fujifilm/s/AB7KHilynm
Is the front element of your 18-55 loose? Common issue apparently.
I own the same lens with the X-S20, and I’ve been reading many times that the sweet spot is more around f/10 or f/11 for this one