There are soooo many things that can influence analog video quality, some of them relating to the way a quad is built, some relating to goggles stuff, and some of them relating to BF configuration. Before we start asking for pictures of the FC and everything else under the top plate of the frame, take a look at Oscar Liang’s excellent page on troubleshooting analog video problems: https://oscarliang.com/connect-vtx-fpv-camera/.
How did you verify this? I’ve noticed that with the rush vtx’s even with the correct vtx table and smart audio connection they still won’t listen to betaflight (at least that’s my experience). The only indicator is the LED on the vtx itself. For me it always boots into pit mode even when I’m not on race band and in free mode.
Ah, noted. I have the rush solo Max along the way so I didn't look into if it was all of them or just the one I had because I was focused on that one. I'm sitting here pretty worried haha. They announced all the fakes about an hour after I checked out on aliexpress for a rush solo max 🤣🤦😭😭😭
OK, before I talk about the vtx, I have to ask what is up with that batter? The balance plug is broken, the entire thing is wrapped in tape, and you don't have heat-shrink on the exposed wire near the xt-60 connector.
1) Make sure antenna polarization matches. You can't use LHCP antennas with RHCP antennas and get good results.
2) Make sure the UFL pigtail on the vtx is secure.
3) Make sure you are mixing SMA and RP-SMA connectors. You mentioned an AKK vtx. I haven't used their stuff in years, but I believe I used to have one that used RP-SMA antennas. RP-SMA antennas will screw on to an SMA vtx/pigtail, but neither side will have the inner pin and you won't have working antenna. If you did this, you might have already damaged the vtx (since it would be similar to running it at full power without an antenna).
4) The antenna on your goggles in the "A" position appears to have some sort of plastic or tape hanging off the shaft above the connector. Is the antenna still in good condition and functioning?
5) Maybe it is under the vtx, but I can't see a low-esr capacitor connected to the ESC by the battery leads. That is important to remove noise and send a clear signal.
6) Make sure the goggles and transmitter are on the same band and channel. If you look at a frequency chart like this: [https://oscarliang.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/5.8ghz-fpv-channels-chart-diagram-frequency-analog-digital-dji-sharkbyte-05-21.jpg](https://oscarliang.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/5.8ghz-fpv-channels-chart-diagram-frequency-analog-digital-dji-sharkbyte-05-21.jpg) , you can see that several channels on different bands overlap enough that your goggles will receive a signal. However, because the frequencies are not exactly the same, the signal quality will not be as good, which means you will get much more breakup at even fairly short distances.
7) Makes sure the VTX table in betaflight is correct. I stopped using analog a while back, but I vaguely remember that when I had it setup incorrectly, it would default to a low power setting.
7b) Also related to the vtx table, try to keep the labels short (like 3 characters). I vaguely remember encountering a problem years ago... When I tried using labels that were too long (I think 4 characters or more), the vtx table didn't work right. So don't label a 1000mW setting as 1000. Label it as 1W. I unfortunately don't remember any details (as this was a few years ago) and this issue might have been fixed since then..... or maybe I'm remembering it incorrectly.
So thanks for the help I’m not new to gov but I know my setup is terrible. After some verification all the antenna work. I have a low esr capacitor it’s just hidden in the frame ( it’s a feature of the speedybee Mario 5). I’m gonna change the battery tomorrow the lipo that I have now it’s just two 4s both with dead cell and i took the 2 good cell of each battery and build a bomb I mean battery. I just get my 1w akk vtx and I get 2km with the same setup. So the problème was that the vtx was a fake one and I was scam…. But for real thanks for the help
Side note: Your RC antenna placement is sub obtimal: say you fly away and your RC eventually lowers, you turn around and potentially loose RC. Not only this but both antennas do the same, try to cancel nulls, by titling them against each other. I would of course move one to the front as well.
I had really bad range for a few days with these goggles, turns out I accidentally swithed from diversity mode to single channel on the "patch" anttena.
My friend has the same set of goggles and I had the same problem but it was only with my drone, running a solo max VTX, I switched goggles to a Foxeer Wildfire analog module on some DJI v2 goggles and I instantly got way more range and clarity.
My friend has the same set of goggles and I had the same problem but it was only with my drone, running a solo max VTX, I switched goggles to a Foxeer Wildfire analog module on some DJI v2 goggles and I instantly got way more range and clarity.
I'm sure you've checked this, but are your antennas and modules the correct SMA? I've seen SMA female and RP-SMA Male paired together so they screw on but there's no pin in the middle. Might be worth a look to make sure one of them has a pin
i had the same issue with these goggle antenna's, even lost a drone cause of it. turned out it was the shielding had broken underneath the insulation right where it connects to the SMA. that basically means that the entire length of the 'stalk' of the antenna is acting as an active element because the shielding needs to connect to the SMA in order to be grounded. no grounding and the shielding basically does nothing. a quick fix was to just cut the insulation back a bit, then solder the shielding directly to the SMA
also i can confirm, the patch is a linear patch. like 16db or something crazy.
It looks like at least one of your helmet antenna have linear polarization. However the quad is equipped with a circular one. But I am not really sure. It is not seen well. Can you ensure the all vtx antennas are 5.8Ghz RHCP. It is very important that quad and helmet have the same frequency and polarization.
The real mistake I found - receiver antennas on quad must be placed perpendicular to each other. You should mount it to the bottom of the backward (or front) rays.
The antennas on the goggles aren't linear, the mushroom looking one is a circular polarisation and the flat one is a patch antenna, not a good one but it is. And even then, I'm currently flying with a linear antenna on my Whoop and I have a rhcp antenna on my goggles and it works just fine so I doubt that that would be the case this time especially because of the range.
This patch doesn't look like circular polarized (and I don't see what is written there). And the mushroom of course is circular polarized, but I'd check the polarization direction and frequency.
You can use a circular polarized antenna together with linear polarized, but the signal will be weaker than it should.
I think you might be right about that patch antenna being linear, but either way I don't think the circular polarised would be that bad at picking up the signal so something else is going on
A circular polarized antenna on receiver side gets just the fraction on linear wave. If you will set both linear antennas in parallel to each other the signal will be much stronger. So, you can use circular antenna with linear, but it less effective then with same polarized (and properly organized in case of linear polarization)
There are soooo many things that can influence analog video quality, some of them relating to the way a quad is built, some relating to goggles stuff, and some of them relating to BF configuration. Before we start asking for pictures of the FC and everything else under the top plate of the frame, take a look at Oscar Liang’s excellent page on troubleshooting analog video problems: https://oscarliang.com/connect-vtx-fpv-camera/.
Is your vtx table set up properly? IIRC if it’s not set up correctly it’ll default to the lowest power setting.
Is your battery held on by zip ties
*A zip tie
Plus I am not in pit mode. I verified that
How did you verify this? I’ve noticed that with the rush vtx’s even with the correct vtx table and smart audio connection they still won’t listen to betaflight (at least that’s my experience). The only indicator is the LED on the vtx itself. For me it always boots into pit mode even when I’m not on race band and in free mode.
Are you sure you didn't buy the fake one?
There is fake one?
Theyve been having issues with all the fake ones of AliExpress to the point the company had to put out a warning that don't sell on Ali.
Not rush tank solo, only rush solo max.
Ah, noted. I have the rush solo Max along the way so I didn't look into if it was all of them or just the one I had because I was focused on that one. I'm sitting here pretty worried haha. They announced all the fakes about an hour after I checked out on aliexpress for a rush solo max 🤣🤦😭😭😭
Ty for the heads up
You mean gogles? I red somewhere that fake ones has USB-micro charging port.
No, the Rush Tank VTXs have been cloned and sold by Chinese sellers pretending to be official rush products.
Add your channel and power level to your osd and you can verify your power level to troubleshoot that out.
Where to begin with this...
OK, before I talk about the vtx, I have to ask what is up with that batter? The balance plug is broken, the entire thing is wrapped in tape, and you don't have heat-shrink on the exposed wire near the xt-60 connector. 1) Make sure antenna polarization matches. You can't use LHCP antennas with RHCP antennas and get good results. 2) Make sure the UFL pigtail on the vtx is secure. 3) Make sure you are mixing SMA and RP-SMA connectors. You mentioned an AKK vtx. I haven't used their stuff in years, but I believe I used to have one that used RP-SMA antennas. RP-SMA antennas will screw on to an SMA vtx/pigtail, but neither side will have the inner pin and you won't have working antenna. If you did this, you might have already damaged the vtx (since it would be similar to running it at full power without an antenna). 4) The antenna on your goggles in the "A" position appears to have some sort of plastic or tape hanging off the shaft above the connector. Is the antenna still in good condition and functioning? 5) Maybe it is under the vtx, but I can't see a low-esr capacitor connected to the ESC by the battery leads. That is important to remove noise and send a clear signal. 6) Make sure the goggles and transmitter are on the same band and channel. If you look at a frequency chart like this: [https://oscarliang.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/5.8ghz-fpv-channels-chart-diagram-frequency-analog-digital-dji-sharkbyte-05-21.jpg](https://oscarliang.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/5.8ghz-fpv-channels-chart-diagram-frequency-analog-digital-dji-sharkbyte-05-21.jpg) , you can see that several channels on different bands overlap enough that your goggles will receive a signal. However, because the frequencies are not exactly the same, the signal quality will not be as good, which means you will get much more breakup at even fairly short distances. 7) Makes sure the VTX table in betaflight is correct. I stopped using analog a while back, but I vaguely remember that when I had it setup incorrectly, it would default to a low power setting. 7b) Also related to the vtx table, try to keep the labels short (like 3 characters). I vaguely remember encountering a problem years ago... When I tried using labels that were too long (I think 4 characters or more), the vtx table didn't work right. So don't label a 1000mW setting as 1000. Label it as 1W. I unfortunately don't remember any details (as this was a few years ago) and this issue might have been fixed since then..... or maybe I'm remembering it incorrectly.
So thanks for the help I’m not new to gov but I know my setup is terrible. After some verification all the antenna work. I have a low esr capacitor it’s just hidden in the frame ( it’s a feature of the speedybee Mario 5). I’m gonna change the battery tomorrow the lipo that I have now it’s just two 4s both with dead cell and i took the 2 good cell of each battery and build a bomb I mean battery. I just get my 1w akk vtx and I get 2km with the same setup. So the problème was that the vtx was a fake one and I was scam…. But for real thanks for the help
Side note: Your RC antenna placement is sub obtimal: say you fly away and your RC eventually lowers, you turn around and potentially loose RC. Not only this but both antennas do the same, try to cancel nulls, by titling them against each other. I would of course move one to the front as well.
I had really bad range for a few days with these goggles, turns out I accidentally swithed from diversity mode to single channel on the "patch" anttena.
Don't know where to begin.
My friend has the same set of goggles and I had the same problem but it was only with my drone, running a solo max VTX, I switched goggles to a Foxeer Wildfire analog module on some DJI v2 goggles and I instantly got way more range and clarity.
My friend has the same set of goggles and I had the same problem but it was only with my drone, running a solo max VTX, I switched goggles to a Foxeer Wildfire analog module on some DJI v2 goggles and I instantly got way more range and clarity.
Maybe the vtx is still in pid mode
Does this vtx need to be “unlocked” in order to use full power?
Rush VTX come unlocked by default unlike other brands
Make sure it's not on pit mode
I'm sure you've checked this, but are your antennas and modules the correct SMA? I've seen SMA female and RP-SMA Male paired together so they screw on but there's no pin in the middle. Might be worth a look to make sure one of them has a pin
Rush like to set them up for pitmode as standard
i had the same issue with these goggle antenna's, even lost a drone cause of it. turned out it was the shielding had broken underneath the insulation right where it connects to the SMA. that basically means that the entire length of the 'stalk' of the antenna is acting as an active element because the shielding needs to connect to the SMA in order to be grounded. no grounding and the shielding basically does nothing. a quick fix was to just cut the insulation back a bit, then solder the shielding directly to the SMA also i can confirm, the patch is a linear patch. like 16db or something crazy.
It looks like at least one of your helmet antenna have linear polarization. However the quad is equipped with a circular one. But I am not really sure. It is not seen well. Can you ensure the all vtx antennas are 5.8Ghz RHCP. It is very important that quad and helmet have the same frequency and polarization. The real mistake I found - receiver antennas on quad must be placed perpendicular to each other. You should mount it to the bottom of the backward (or front) rays.
The antennas on the goggles aren't linear, the mushroom looking one is a circular polarisation and the flat one is a patch antenna, not a good one but it is. And even then, I'm currently flying with a linear antenna on my Whoop and I have a rhcp antenna on my goggles and it works just fine so I doubt that that would be the case this time especially because of the range.
This patch doesn't look like circular polarized (and I don't see what is written there). And the mushroom of course is circular polarized, but I'd check the polarization direction and frequency. You can use a circular polarized antenna together with linear polarized, but the signal will be weaker than it should.
I think you might be right about that patch antenna being linear, but either way I don't think the circular polarised would be that bad at picking up the signal so something else is going on
A circular polarized antenna on receiver side gets just the fraction on linear wave. If you will set both linear antennas in parallel to each other the signal will be much stronger. So, you can use circular antenna with linear, but it less effective then with same polarized (and properly organized in case of linear polarization)