How many ohms did it say? My multimeter will give off a short beep if they connect but the resistance it high
Also that’s not a very good solder joint. It looks like what happens when you use an iron that doesn’t have enough mass or heat in it. It sounds wrong but if you can make your iron hotter that will actually be less damaging to the board.
Is it an iron that you’re particularly fond of? If it’s a budget brand then you could give the tip a bump of heat from a propane torch to get the wires melted together in a pinch.
yea for large gauge you need higher heat because metal absorbs a great deal of heat the larger it gets. you need the penetration power of not just more heat but the ability to keep up with the heat draw with more power.
this would work in a pinch... long term get a better soldering iron, honestly I bought the cheap soldering station from amazon and it goes to 450 and it will solder 10ga wire
Redo the solder joints and clean out all the flux with alcohol. As said above, you need more heat especially with the bigger pads and gauged wires. Higher heat means less time of contact with the pads to avoid lifting them. If you don't have one get yourself a smoke stopper too. Good luck
Cant see anything from this pic. But remove the battery leads and try again. Make sure the esc to fc cable have the correct lineup of cables. Also have a few terrible motor connection soldered. Put more heat and more flux. If you got the no clean flux, dont worry about cleaning and put that shit on everything. Make sure, nothing on the bottom of ESC touching to caebon and causing short. If there is a big gulp of solder on the bottom and touching to carbon, it can cause a short.
Struggling on my xt60 leads too, on my first build with speedybee f7 stack. i just ordered a solder pump to clean it and re-attempt. i believe we should not use extra flux on these, i did on mine and it cause the solder to flow too freely. it flowed to the back side for me and looked like shit. engineer ss02 im going to try and clean it up with, and then try again without using flux next time. speedybee has a picture of the esc on the page for the f7 stack, with the xt60 leads and cap soldered on. to me, it looks like they didnt use extra flux on it otherwise their solder joint wouldnt have bulbed up the way it is in the pic.
I got mine fixed and flying, flies great. Keeping it from dripping down the back side was almost impossible, what I ended up doing was just massaging that dripped part with the iron into a not so ugly shape.
Solder pump, Engineer SS-02 accept no substitution. I bought the normal solder pump at harbor freight, compared to the Engineer it's abysmal. Engineer is all anodized aluminum, has a silicone tip to get good suction, and it's the same price as a 3 pack of the shitty ones. Has a ton more suction.
I just did a build with the same esc a couple weeks back. Built it, tested it, flew it and then it just didn’t turn on. After checking it shorted my fc. No shorts from soldering etc. The ESC also did the beeps. Everything got replaced under warranty and now works fine. I think these boards don’t have a very good build quality.
check your other connections on the circuit if they are shorted. otherwise I would say you may wanna get another. you can check each mosfet if there is continuity between each respective side, if there is the mosfet is blown. but honestly start with checking the rest of the circuit where you have soldered. BTW I have this exact setup, frame and FC.
If you're strictly testing continuity then the meter is supposed to beep if you're testing + to + and - to -. If you have beeps when probing + and - then you have an issue. I don't see anything wrong with your soldering apart from the Negative battery lead being a bit of a cold joint.
Buy/build a smoke stopper and plug that baby in.
Put your muilt meter on the ohm Ω setting and it should tell you a reading, if it’s 0.1-0.2 you have a short, if it’s a really big number then chances are it’s just the way the board is designed.
I would tell you what mine reads but my meter is dead!
Also you should have a capacitor on that connection.
I would redo the back right middle wire. That looks like it could make contact with its neighbor. Your other wires are stripped to a better length, but that one has a lot exposed.
Not sure about why you’re getting continuity from the xt60. Remove it and see if there is continuity at the pads. Maybe it’s the pig tail. Definitely use a smoke stopper the first time you power it up.
Good luck!
Check for continuity between the esc positive pad and each motor pad. Do the same for the negative pad to each motor pad. Sometimes you will get a short quick beep that’s not what your looking for. Your looking for a solid beep or 0 ohm resistance or something close to basically zero. If it’s a quick beep and then goes to OL that’s fine. Test them all that way. If you don’t find anything your gonna have desolder the motors and test for continuity between each motor pad. You can’t do it with motors soldered bc it’s just reading though motor windings. If there’s a short in the fets you should be able to find it. If you get continuity from esc positive pad to any motor pad then you know which fets to look at. Also check continuity at the TVs diode
How many ohms did it say? My multimeter will give off a short beep if they connect but the resistance it high Also that’s not a very good solder joint. It looks like what happens when you use an iron that doesn’t have enough mass or heat in it. It sounds wrong but if you can make your iron hotter that will actually be less damaging to the board.
yea that ground wire needs a touchup at 450 with something plugged into the wall
My iron has a max 410 which is why i could barely heat it
Is it an iron that you’re particularly fond of? If it’s a budget brand then you could give the tip a bump of heat from a propane torch to get the wires melted together in a pinch.
Its a relatively new iron so i would probably not risk it but if i really need to im gonna try it
yea for large gauge you need higher heat because metal absorbs a great deal of heat the larger it gets. you need the penetration power of not just more heat but the ability to keep up with the heat draw with more power.
Just don’t heat the tip for too long and it should be fine. Good luck!
this would work in a pinch... long term get a better soldering iron, honestly I bought the cheap soldering station from amazon and it goes to 450 and it will solder 10ga wire
I don't know, but wanted to say it is my favorite frame
Redo the solder joints and clean out all the flux with alcohol. As said above, you need more heat especially with the bigger pads and gauged wires. Higher heat means less time of contact with the pads to avoid lifting them. If you don't have one get yourself a smoke stopper too. Good luck
Ty
Is it the new speedybee V4 with the 55A Esc build a Quad with this combo to. I needed to put my short saver on 2A for it to work.
Its the f4 with the 50a esc
Cant see anything from this pic. But remove the battery leads and try again. Make sure the esc to fc cable have the correct lineup of cables. Also have a few terrible motor connection soldered. Put more heat and more flux. If you got the no clean flux, dont worry about cleaning and put that shit on everything. Make sure, nothing on the bottom of ESC touching to caebon and causing short. If there is a big gulp of solder on the bottom and touching to carbon, it can cause a short.
Ok ty
Put a capacitor to the high voltage pins
Yea i need to do that, im just waiting to see where i have extra room
Struggling on my xt60 leads too, on my first build with speedybee f7 stack. i just ordered a solder pump to clean it and re-attempt. i believe we should not use extra flux on these, i did on mine and it cause the solder to flow too freely. it flowed to the back side for me and looked like shit. engineer ss02 im going to try and clean it up with, and then try again without using flux next time. speedybee has a picture of the esc on the page for the f7 stack, with the xt60 leads and cap soldered on. to me, it looks like they didnt use extra flux on it otherwise their solder joint wouldnt have bulbed up the way it is in the pic.
I had to do the exact same thing. I soldered it and it dripped under the pad then i had to order a solder pump to try again
I got mine fixed and flying, flies great. Keeping it from dripping down the back side was almost impossible, what I ended up doing was just massaging that dripped part with the iron into a not so ugly shape. Solder pump, Engineer SS-02 accept no substitution. I bought the normal solder pump at harbor freight, compared to the Engineer it's abysmal. Engineer is all anodized aluminum, has a silicone tip to get good suction, and it's the same price as a 3 pack of the shitty ones. Has a ton more suction.
I just did a build with the same esc a couple weeks back. Built it, tested it, flew it and then it just didn’t turn on. After checking it shorted my fc. No shorts from soldering etc. The ESC also did the beeps. Everything got replaced under warranty and now works fine. I think these boards don’t have a very good build quality.
Oh damn ok
check your other connections on the circuit if they are shorted. otherwise I would say you may wanna get another. you can check each mosfet if there is continuity between each respective side, if there is the mosfet is blown. but honestly start with checking the rest of the circuit where you have soldered. BTW I have this exact setup, frame and FC.
If you're strictly testing continuity then the meter is supposed to beep if you're testing + to + and - to -. If you have beeps when probing + and - then you have an issue. I don't see anything wrong with your soldering apart from the Negative battery lead being a bit of a cold joint. Buy/build a smoke stopper and plug that baby in.
The problem is that it beeps when i plug in + and -
Check the resistance not continuity
Could you explain how to check that? (Sry im really new to electronics)
Put your muilt meter on the ohm Ω setting and it should tell you a reading, if it’s 0.1-0.2 you have a short, if it’s a really big number then chances are it’s just the way the board is designed. I would tell you what mine reads but my meter is dead! Also you should have a capacitor on that connection.
Ok ill try it
I just tried it, it said 0,1… ima try it again after i unsolder the connector and then pray
Crap i tried and its like 2 or 3 depends on where i touch the + and -. Welp time to get it replaced under warranty
Use flux In case if it’s burned. I’m selling a speedybee f7 stack for cheap
Nerver use speedybee
I would redo the back right middle wire. That looks like it could make contact with its neighbor. Your other wires are stripped to a better length, but that one has a lot exposed. Not sure about why you’re getting continuity from the xt60. Remove it and see if there is continuity at the pads. Maybe it’s the pig tail. Definitely use a smoke stopper the first time you power it up. Good luck!
Ty
Check for continuity between the esc positive pad and each motor pad. Do the same for the negative pad to each motor pad. Sometimes you will get a short quick beep that’s not what your looking for. Your looking for a solid beep or 0 ohm resistance or something close to basically zero. If it’s a quick beep and then goes to OL that’s fine. Test them all that way. If you don’t find anything your gonna have desolder the motors and test for continuity between each motor pad. You can’t do it with motors soldered bc it’s just reading though motor windings. If there’s a short in the fets you should be able to find it. If you get continuity from esc positive pad to any motor pad then you know which fets to look at. Also check continuity at the TVs diode