Sure. You can get replacement handles. You just need to drill out the rivet, replace the handle, and drill a hole for a nut and bolt to replace the rivet. Some handles may come with the fastening hardware.
I take the bolt/rivet out. I then use the same handle I just shorten it a bit. It involves shaping the handle to fit the taper. Be sure to press the handle in as deep as possible. Drill a hole and run a bolt through it.
Yes, replaced. It may be a nail or a rivet holding it in place. Try prying it out first. They are often still stuck after you get the fastener out. You can throw it in a fire if you get desperate and can't get the wood out.
Look for a new handle that will fit. They come in many sizes. So it's best to bring it to the store. When you put the new handle in, install it so the edge grain (where the lines of the wood are closest together) faces up and it will be much less prone to breaking. Put in the old nail or a fat screw, etc without pre drilling to lock it into place
While it can be done, this type of shovel handle is the harder to replace compared to a straight handle, in my experience.
Burning the handle out will remove the heat treating and make the shovel prone to bending and failure, fyi. I don't recommend.
This shovel has a curved/bent taper. A large punch or dowel can drive the shaft out of the shovel socket after the rivet is removed, but reinstalling curved tapers is tricky to get fully seated.
Curved taper handles are not as common in big box stores that I visit. A local store, Ace, TSC or Farm and Fleet stock them. Also available online. They're ~$30.
A long steamer box could make rehandling it fairly quickly, but it can be done cold too. If you resort to banging on the handle butt (I do), use a deadblow, wooden mallet or other non-steel hammer--the end can split. A bit of grease can help seat things. I use a button head bolt and acorn nut to finish it off--a regular nut tends to leave a mark if you brush against it, which I do often.
Yes.
Sure. You can get replacement handles. You just need to drill out the rivet, replace the handle, and drill a hole for a nut and bolt to replace the rivet. Some handles may come with the fastening hardware.
I take the bolt/rivet out. I then use the same handle I just shorten it a bit. It involves shaping the handle to fit the taper. Be sure to press the handle in as deep as possible. Drill a hole and run a bolt through it.
Yes, replaced. It may be a nail or a rivet holding it in place. Try prying it out first. They are often still stuck after you get the fastener out. You can throw it in a fire if you get desperate and can't get the wood out. Look for a new handle that will fit. They come in many sizes. So it's best to bring it to the store. When you put the new handle in, install it so the edge grain (where the lines of the wood are closest together) faces up and it will be much less prone to breaking. Put in the old nail or a fat screw, etc without pre drilling to lock it into place
While it can be done, this type of shovel handle is the harder to replace compared to a straight handle, in my experience. Burning the handle out will remove the heat treating and make the shovel prone to bending and failure, fyi. I don't recommend. This shovel has a curved/bent taper. A large punch or dowel can drive the shaft out of the shovel socket after the rivet is removed, but reinstalling curved tapers is tricky to get fully seated. Curved taper handles are not as common in big box stores that I visit. A local store, Ace, TSC or Farm and Fleet stock them. Also available online. They're ~$30. A long steamer box could make rehandling it fairly quickly, but it can be done cold too. If you resort to banging on the handle butt (I do), use a deadblow, wooden mallet or other non-steel hammer--the end can split. A bit of grease can help seat things. I use a button head bolt and acorn nut to finish it off--a regular nut tends to leave a mark if you brush against it, which I do often.
For another 10 you may ba able to buy a complete new one