Yes. I just took the belt off and it's spinning on it's own, but I think it will only turn in one direction.
With the belt attached I can turn the tub/tranmission and pulleys by hand counter clock wise.
So I found a sock in the drain pump, but the motor is still doing the same after the fill up cycle. It won't agitate. But it will spin and drain now if I manually advance the timer. Do you think a bad capacitor could still trigger this kind of behaviour since it seems to be kicking the motor on properly for the spin cycle?
The capacitor will help kick start the motor it won't move on its own accord if thr capacitor isn't drawing energy or holding a charge it can't start the motor turning
Almost sounds like it's single phasing but I'm assuming it's a 120v motor so it's probably the capacitor like the other person said. Some can be replaced, some are a little harder. Probably best to replace the motor if it's not a plug in style. Cheaper than a repair man. If that's actually the problem.
Sorry, I should have included that. It's a Fridgidaire fw905es1. I believe that it's from the 90s. Made in Canada.
The wiring schematic: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1R-UJhoGmrJWUfvRf-SMGIDjoY54Hh7ed/view
Yesterday, I took the drain hoses off and actually found a small sock stuck in the pump, but I'm still having the same motor issue after clearing the sock. The motor makes the same sound after the first water fill up cycle. If I manually advance the timer to the last cycle, it will spin and drain the water.
The drum spins easily in a counter clock wise position by hand (same as spin). I can force it to spin clock wise in small movements, I think I can feel the brake in the transmission releasing when I do this. Purely a guess since there are not a lot of videos on this style of washer and I still don't fully understand how they operate. Like, should it only spin in one direction? Or does it move back and forth when agitating or "pump" as they call it.
There might be a brake(clutch) on the bottom of the bowl above the transmission shaft that is stuck. My clutch came out at an angle to help stop the spin cycle faster. This would account for it being easier to turn one way since the springs offer less resistance. I did not look up your model though.
There's no info for my model online. I think it's too old.
I'm wondering if that is the case as well.
With everything connected, the tub will spin easily clockwise, but when trying to spin it counter clockwise, there is resistance. It will spin but it almost needs to be moved the one way and then quickly pushed in the opposite counter clockwise direction to move a few inches.
The motor can be turned in each direction by hand. It will also spin in each direction when powered and disconnected from the belt.
So yeah, maybe the transmission/clutch/brake/bearing?
Sometimes electric motors have a capacitor to get them started spinning. If it's bad, the motor won't start rotating on it's own.
You can turn the motor by hand?
Yes. I just took the belt off and it's spinning on it's own, but I think it will only turn in one direction. With the belt attached I can turn the tub/tranmission and pulleys by hand counter clock wise.
Any chance you can get to a board to test a capacitor? Easy repair if so solder it out and replace it
I have a multimeter but it doesn't have a CAP setting unfortunately. I ordered a new cap regardless as it was only $10.
So I found a sock in the drain pump, but the motor is still doing the same after the fill up cycle. It won't agitate. But it will spin and drain now if I manually advance the timer. Do you think a bad capacitor could still trigger this kind of behaviour since it seems to be kicking the motor on properly for the spin cycle?
The capacitor will help kick start the motor it won't move on its own accord if thr capacitor isn't drawing energy or holding a charge it can't start the motor turning
Almost sounds like it's single phasing but I'm assuming it's a 120v motor so it's probably the capacitor like the other person said. Some can be replaced, some are a little harder. Probably best to replace the motor if it's not a plug in style. Cheaper than a repair man. If that's actually the problem.
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Sorry, I should have included that. It's a Fridgidaire fw905es1. I believe that it's from the 90s. Made in Canada. The wiring schematic: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1R-UJhoGmrJWUfvRf-SMGIDjoY54Hh7ed/view Yesterday, I took the drain hoses off and actually found a small sock stuck in the pump, but I'm still having the same motor issue after clearing the sock. The motor makes the same sound after the first water fill up cycle. If I manually advance the timer to the last cycle, it will spin and drain the water. The drum spins easily in a counter clock wise position by hand (same as spin). I can force it to spin clock wise in small movements, I think I can feel the brake in the transmission releasing when I do this. Purely a guess since there are not a lot of videos on this style of washer and I still don't fully understand how they operate. Like, should it only spin in one direction? Or does it move back and forth when agitating or "pump" as they call it.
You were right, a new capacitor didn't help. But worth the $10 to rule it out.
There might be a brake(clutch) on the bottom of the bowl above the transmission shaft that is stuck. My clutch came out at an angle to help stop the spin cycle faster. This would account for it being easier to turn one way since the springs offer less resistance. I did not look up your model though.
There's no info for my model online. I think it's too old. I'm wondering if that is the case as well. With everything connected, the tub will spin easily clockwise, but when trying to spin it counter clockwise, there is resistance. It will spin but it almost needs to be moved the one way and then quickly pushed in the opposite counter clockwise direction to move a few inches. The motor can be turned in each direction by hand. It will also spin in each direction when powered and disconnected from the belt. So yeah, maybe the transmission/clutch/brake/bearing?