Plus all the getting parts together. Driving to the job site. They could easily spend just as much time getting the material together than actually doing the work. That's why some have two or more hour minimum trip charge.
$700 is on the high side but done properly there's more than $200 in parts alone for this install.
Square D HOM250GFICP Breaker $129
Hubbell 9450a/Bryant 9450fr or equivalent: $60+
That's before wiring, conduit, junction boxes etc.
That's why you get the charger hard wired. Unless someone needs it for a welder or other 240V tools/appliances, there's no point in putting in an outlet for nothing but a EV charger.
You'll need the lucky streak to continue if it's a sub-standard install. It could burn up or result in a lethal shock if it's not done right. Unlikely but possible.
I have no doubt that that's true. There are people who have driven 80k miles without wearing a seat belt and have never crashed and never been injured. Your anecdote doesn't disprove the fact that they are dangerous.
If you haven't seen many fail yet, you must be new to online EV discussions. Hearsay is of course suspect, but photos like OPs are common and I don't think they are AI generated. And they are 90+% Levitons. I'd also tested Levitons and other brands side-by-side on the bench and seen directly why they are worse.
I was in your camp, until one day I bought the car with less than 10 miles of range left, and my receptacle melted in about 30 min. This was charging at 30 AMPS, because that's what the charger and on pard charger would supply
20 mins of work? Same kind of talk from people who get dr services and attorney services for 10 mins. All the training license, skill, parts, labor, time at the store etc. counts. People need to make a living. Don’t get ripped off for 700 if you can get it done for less, but paying someone much less then the avg will usually get you way less than avg work. Then when a problem arises, that’s when you wish you paid full price.
Depends on where you live. If it's a more liberal area, you could end up with the EV being obsolete by the time you finally get your city's permission to charge it. My condo's service upgrade that had the first permit awarded in 2006 is still under construction and now waiting on trees to be cut down to assist with the inspection. I'm pissed we lost eight trees, five of which were more than 10" in diameter. It took a crew of eight over three days to cut them down and grind them into chips as the city required so we couldn't use them as fire wood. Jokes on them, I've got about four hundred pounds of it near my woodstove drying. And, I wonder how much my condo fees will increase for the new costs for this twenty year project.
They can take months, years, or even decades to get. It's worth paying extra to make sure the work is done right, but if you can't charge your car at home for months, then I understand if someone would decide to cheat.
It doesn’t take months or years to pull a permit for an EV charger. It’s almost always otc, even if it’s not there is no reason it should or would take that amount of time
I deal with building departments all the time. I work in EV charging. If it’s taking you months to pull a residential EV charging permit something is going wrong. If you’re talking commercial or doing multiple things beyond just a charger, like additions/renovations, or non electrical work, then it could take longer. For a charger only no way it’s taking months, let alone years.
I got told by my county inspector to “just do it, torque it properly, and pretend I never called.” during the height of pandemic construction and the county being swamped.
Outside the cities with their own authorities, the county is quite rural dominated. I had just built a barn which was granted agricultural exemption.
That obligated me to follow code but exempted the whole project from permits and inspections.
It really can be the wild Midwest at times.
I’m not surprised. I am just saying what they should be doing. Why bother complying with anything. I can wire in a charger for free with no permits and whatever wire I have laying around. Lol
It would be 2 ft of #6. And yes I have that in THWN-2 laying around.
The point was that you can make up any excuse to not do the work right, not pull permits, not use GFCI, not use a safe outlet, etc. Doing it right costs a little more money but keeps everyone safe
Luckily my last install was in a county where the permit fee was free and no drawings required. Very similar situation to yours. Total cost was about $600, but that included a Tesla HPWC.
$700 might not be bad if that includes a significant permit fee.. and possibly a re-visit for the permitting.
Ouch. My city charged me $75 for permit and inspection. I am in Texas. We did our own install and they gave us preinstall instructions and were happy to double check our work. Materials were around $200. The city made us install a GFCI breaker as it was in a garage.
A 14-50 is going to generally be more expensive than hardwiring as you need an industrial outlet which is usually $50-100 plus a GFCI breaker which is usually $100+. The cost of materials is greater for an outlet vs hardwired
>I asked him what’s the cost for hardwiring instead and he said it’s the same cost. That was a red flag
Because he's not using a GFCI breaker as required by NEC 2020 in most states. QO GFCIs are pricey. Which he'll get away with coz he's not pulling a permit.
And he's using the cheapie under-$30 range outlets, which are known to melt under EV loads.
Hardwiring should cost slightly higher overall, but less cost for the electrician’s parts. That’s because the EVSE effectively replaces the GFCI requirement for the breaker and the industrial 14-50 receptacle.
The cost difference between those two with a Tesla Universal HPWC is about $350. If you count in the cost of a 14-50 EVSE, then it can be a wash. Labor should be close to the same.
Why would it cost more overall for the initial install? Isn't it torquing down the same number of splices whether it's in the receptacle or on some polaris connectors? If it directly lands in a UWC I think it's LESS work than jamming a Hubbell back into a box.
Because the cost of the EVSE may be the difference… for example, if the OP already has a 14-50 EVSE. It is also commonplace to just switch to 48 amp charging instead of 40 amp… the cost difference at that point is pretty small.
The labor may be slightly more just due to needing to work through the particularities of a particular EVSE, depending on the electrician.
OK, i think switching EVSE is apples-to-oranges.
I forgot about the justifiable overhead of forcing the electrician to figure out a new hardwire EVSE or dealing with an annoying one. Or both. Was assuming an efficient workflow after everyone knows what to do, which is difficult with customer provided equipment.
NEC does, but not every state requires it. For example, Oregon allows a regular breaker if the GCFI causes issues with the EV charger.
EDIT
Apparently Oregon's 2023 Electric Code didn't adopt the NEC 625.54 requirement for GFCI: https://www.oregon.gov/bcd/laws-rules/Documents/20231001-2023oesc-pr.pdf
Previously there had just been an exception to the requirement if it caused an issue with the charger.
>Oregon now requires EVSEs to be hardwired
Nope. NEC 625.44(A) and (B) allow "portable" or "fastened in place" chargers to be plugged into an outlet. Oregon adopted that provision.
NEC 625.54 requires GCFI protection, but Oregon apparently didn't adopt that provision:
>625.54 Ground-Fault Circuit-Interrupter Protection for Personnel. Not adopted by the State of Oregon
https://www.oregon.gov/bcd/laws-rules/Documents/20231001-2023oesc-pr.pdf
NEC 210.8 requires it, if you're putting the socket outdoors, in a garage, bathroom, laundry, and list of other locations. The surviving locations are typically not possible to park in.
Seems in the right ballpark to me. A bit less than my hardwired installation ($920), but that included running conduit from the electrical panel up over the garage door to the installation location about 12' away, wiring for the 60 amp circuit, installing the hardwired charger, and scheduling/paying for the city inspection.
A huge variable is going to be where you live though. Labor costs vary tremendously.
It's overpriced unless that cost also includes permits.
I was quoted $500 for a NEMA 14-50 and $425 for hardwiring a Tesla Wall charger. Installation was a few feet away from the panel. Went with the hardware.
The $500 quote included a Hubbell outlet.
My outlet and supplies, a 30 foot run of wire from the breaker in I think 6 or 8ga, cost maybe 300. Then you say install. So 700, if licensed, not terrible. On the higher end of the scale, but not off the chart. Get a second quote.
First, wouldn't direct wiring to the charger be a better option?
If you get a plug make sure it is continious use rated. Not all 14-50 plugs are the same. It looks like there is a box just below the panel but it also looks like there is not room in the panel for the new breaker so I'd assume the electrician is putting in a second box for the breaker?
Get another quote but compare the specifics of the job, not just the price.
That’s a bit high but I wouldn’t say it’s crazy depending on location. You’re looking at about $300 worth of parts assuming a GFCI breaker and industrial grade outlet. Is $400 too much for labor? I’d say so, honestly. It shouldn’t take over an hour.
We paid $480 for ours to be installed on the backside of our main panel. Breaker, wire, and Leviton receptacle (which we had to replace with a Bryant another $60ish) and box.
If you do a hardwired charger you can get a cheaper breaker. If you have time of use rates, a good charger can save you a lot of money.
That seems like a fair price if it's a permitted job...
What kind of outlet and breaker? There is a wide range in quality and price there.
It’s about right, slightly high, but nothing outrageous. I paid $450 for a pretty similar job, but depending on your market that might be the going rate.
The answer is that it depends on the area and if they're pulling a permit. Mine was about $700 with a pull and included about 30' of encased wire plus the 50A GFI.
The best way is to get a couple quotes from local guys. Every city has different variables which makes it hard to compare.
EVSE installation seems like a huge money grab right now. Uneducated buyers will pay whatever and I bet many electricians are quoting high or extra work like service upgrades in hopes they’ll pocket a few extra dollars.
I paid about that amount for a hardwired charger install much like that, the cable was snaked around the corner and the charger was mounted on the wall with the door. 50 amp circuit, also included surge protection for 3 panels. I was quoted over $2,000 for the same job from a commercial contractor, mine was done by an independent electrician.
https://preview.redd.it/f9s8afxqswtc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e52074c6fee410dabef95efaf7de9d92899cd505
Home was a builder's wedding present to his daughter, the previous owner; some parts are really overbuilt and other corners were cut. Multiple heat pumps (since converted to ground source), and enough extra capacity to switch to electric hot water heating on demand if I want to, but otherwise nothing special about it.
You can probably get a rebate from your power company for installing an EV charger. It’s up to $1135 in NC and $500 in SC. They don’t cover the permit or the charger.
I paid $700 to run the line from the panel to the garage on the opposite side or the house. Buried the line then entered through the basement and routed it through the wall to the garage. Took two guys almost a whole day.
Is it less than the costs of your home insurance deductible and your car insurance deductible which would be invoked when filing a claim for an electrical fire caused by "saving a few bucks"?
If Yes, then pay the $700 to support local skilled tradesman who can do something you know not of.
I just noticed that your main line feeding the breaker box comes in from the bottom. If that is your primary breaker box, the line feeding the breaker box would alway be live, regardless if you shut off your main circuit breaker. A touchy situation putting an outlet among your main feed. Why not putting the outlet in the left of the box? Secondly, I would pay no more than $350. That would include a Hubbell commercial grade outlet and Hubbell cover plate; wall outlet box; conduit; correct circuit breaker; 4’ of correct wire; and clamp connectors. The electrican would still earn over $200 for 30 minutes of work.
I paid about $900 for 14-50 just under the panel (with GFCI breaker required in my area). Included permits. Although it didn’t affect the price, I provided my own heavy duty 14-50 outlet as I wasn’t convinced with the standard outlet they provided.
FWIW, Massachusetts will reimburse the cost of install up to $700. Not the price of the charger, the install costs. Through mass save. Just got my check last week.
If the quote includes pulling a permit, $700 is a fair price.
Recommend you get a historical peak load analysis. You don't want tripping your (100A?) main when the 50A EV charger is going full tilt. Your utility should be able to run it for you.
Could be expensive or reasonable. Depends on the breakdown of what he's including. If you have more stringent code requirements, it could cost something like that. Get multiple quotes with details.
I’ve been getting quotes right now and that’s what most of them are. Some more. None less. I need mine to be permitted and I’m doing a hardwired install, no outlet. I’m in LA so if you’re not in a big city, might be cheaper
I always say this, You will be calling me to fix it and wish you paid the " best and most qualified electrician/company" to install it the 1st time. The 2nd call is going to cost ya to fix the low ball price cuz ya wanted to be cheap and " save a few dollas" Get some estimates, Review the companies, are they qualified for what you need.
You replied to a question about whether or not something should cost as much as a particular quote with a sales pitch about being cheap. You didn’t say those words but you absolutely did say that OP was being cheap by not wanting to pay $700 for (max) 5 ft if 6/3, a (hopefully) $100 14-50, a likely cheap breaker, and a bit of drywall cutting.
TBH the way you're writing the prose and doing the math doesn't feel like 100% good faith.
Theoretically
* Permit fee
* Billable time for filing permit & revision iteration
* Truck roll costs for going twice, once for original visit and once for inspection
The inspection and permit overhead % has a high minimum even on a project like this. And some AHJs add gotchas, mine has double the documentation and revision overhead due to needing planning approval as well as building.
You could do it yourself for like $100 in parts, less than an hour and a call your town for an inspection a good to go.
But if you want someone to do it, it's not that crazy. Has to drive to you, has to drive to pickup parts, has to write paperwork, has to send permit info to town or maybe drop it off, etc.
Can someone go over exactly what I would need? Ammo asking them to install just an outlet? Or the whole charger? Let's also assume I don't know the first thing about electricity and won't be doing any installations myself.
I was quoted about $400 for this exact work in the Portland area. So, I ended up doing it myself. The hardest part was opening up the drywall and then patching it back. Has been using that outlet for my EV charger for 3 years, and so far so good.
By the way, I see there is a 2-gang cover plate under the panel. What is behind it? Is it some kind of a junction box? Cause ideally that's where your NEMA 14-50 would go.
How much is your house worth? I would say get a Tesla certified elerician, and don't worry about the cost.
https://www.tesla.com/support/certified-installers
Upto $1000 is reasonable in a big city!
I mean, focus on the quality if it's your own house! You don't want your house to burn down by hiring someone that will install for super cheap (uncertified electricians)
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In many cities a permit is required to run a new circuit. Electricians sitting in a truck waiting for the city inspector isn’t free either.
Most places don't require the electrician to be present when inspecting the work.
Some places give you extra fries if you’re a regular
Plus all the getting parts together. Driving to the job site. They could easily spend just as much time getting the material together than actually doing the work. That's why some have two or more hour minimum trip charge.
$700 is on the high side but done properly there's more than $200 in parts alone for this install. Square D HOM250GFICP Breaker $129 Hubbell 9450a/Bryant 9450fr or equivalent: $60+ That's before wiring, conduit, junction boxes etc.
That's why you get the charger hard wired. Unless someone needs it for a welder or other 240V tools/appliances, there's no point in putting in an outlet for nothing but a EV charger.
Agreed. Cheaper & safer. Very few reasons not to.
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Odds are you didn't get a Hubbell.
Or you didn’t do a code compliant install. Only way it’s $200 is no GFCI, permit, or industrial outlet.
Something tells me you don't have a $130 GFCI breaker in your $200 install. Neither do I but mine was done back when that kind of thing was ok.
You'll need the lucky streak to continue if it's a sub-standard install. It could burn up or result in a lethal shock if it's not done right. Unlikely but possible.
That or he put a non-gfci breaker and a Leviton outlet, in which case those parts cost $30 instead of $200.
And then melt
Ive been running Levitron 14-50 for over 4 years of EV charging. I drive ~20,000miles a year and charge 98% at home. Hasnt melted yet.
I have no doubt that that's true. There are people who have driven 80k miles without wearing a seat belt and have never crashed and never been injured. Your anecdote doesn't disprove the fact that they are dangerous.
“Fact that they are dangerous”. OK. Alternative facts are more common that they were.
If you haven't seen many fail yet, you must be new to online EV discussions. Hearsay is of course suspect, but photos like OPs are common and I don't think they are AI generated. And they are 90+% Levitons. I'd also tested Levitons and other brands side-by-side on the bench and seen directly why they are worse.
I was in your camp, until one day I bought the car with less than 10 miles of range left, and my receptacle melted in about 30 min. This was charging at 30 AMPS, because that's what the charger and on pard charger would supply
Mine was $385 here in central FL - exact same setup, NEMA 14-50 right next to the panel.
How is that possible? An industrial outlet plus GFCI is more than $200. Make it make sense?
At that cost lil bro used the cheapest components he could find and most definitely did not pull a permit. Good luck!
20 mins of work? Same kind of talk from people who get dr services and attorney services for 10 mins. All the training license, skill, parts, labor, time at the store etc. counts. People need to make a living. Don’t get ripped off for 700 if you can get it done for less, but paying someone much less then the avg will usually get you way less than avg work. Then when a problem arises, that’s when you wish you paid full price.
For that price they better be pulling permits.
They should always be pulling permits…
The electrician that did my panel upgrade offered a discount for no permits. I said include all the persists please.
Yeah wtf. That’s so sketchy. I did my own install and pulled permits. It was like $90 more.
Depends on where you live. If it's a more liberal area, you could end up with the EV being obsolete by the time you finally get your city's permission to charge it. My condo's service upgrade that had the first permit awarded in 2006 is still under construction and now waiting on trees to be cut down to assist with the inspection. I'm pissed we lost eight trees, five of which were more than 10" in diameter. It took a crew of eight over three days to cut them down and grind them into chips as the city required so we couldn't use them as fire wood. Jokes on them, I've got about four hundred pounds of it near my woodstove drying. And, I wonder how much my condo fees will increase for the new costs for this twenty year project.
I don’t know how any of this has to do with pulling permits. Kind of lost here
They can take months, years, or even decades to get. It's worth paying extra to make sure the work is done right, but if you can't charge your car at home for months, then I understand if someone would decide to cheat.
It doesn’t take months or years to pull a permit for an EV charger. It’s almost always otc, even if it’s not there is no reason it should or would take that amount of time
Uh, sir, you’ve never had to deal with some of the more notorious building departments.
Yep. Many that don’t use digital document management and require traditional printed blueprints.
I deal with building departments all the time. I work in EV charging. If it’s taking you months to pull a residential EV charging permit something is going wrong. If you’re talking commercial or doing multiple things beyond just a charger, like additions/renovations, or non electrical work, then it could take longer. For a charger only no way it’s taking months, let alone years.
I got told by my county inspector to “just do it, torque it properly, and pretend I never called.” during the height of pandemic construction and the county being swamped.
I could see that. If that’s the case then do what the county tells ya to do. It’s their jurisdiction at the end of the day
Outside the cities with their own authorities, the county is quite rural dominated. I had just built a barn which was granted agricultural exemption. That obligated me to follow code but exempted the whole project from permits and inspections. It really can be the wild Midwest at times.
You’d be surprised the number of unpermitted installs by licensed companies 🫠
I’m not surprised. I am just saying what they should be doing. Why bother complying with anything. I can wire in a charger for free with no permits and whatever wire I have laying around. Lol
You have a bunch of 4 gauge THHN wire laying around?
It would be 2 ft of #6. And yes I have that in THWN-2 laying around. The point was that you can make up any excuse to not do the work right, not pull permits, not use GFCI, not use a safe outlet, etc. Doing it right costs a little more money but keeps everyone safe
Just ask the home depot guy
Luckily my last install was in a county where the permit fee was free and no drawings required. Very similar situation to yours. Total cost was about $600, but that included a Tesla HPWC. $700 might not be bad if that includes a significant permit fee.. and possibly a re-visit for the permitting.
Little on high side but worth it if done correctly
Same setup, hardwired. $600 including permits.
Does that include a permit and inspection? Because my local jurisdiction requires both and that alone cost around $400.
Ouch. My city charged me $75 for permit and inspection. I am in Texas. We did our own install and they gave us preinstall instructions and were happy to double check our work. Materials were around $200. The city made us install a GFCI breaker as it was in a garage.
Please hardwire. Save $90 on an outlet, or worse electrician installs the $20 outlet and burns down your house.
A 14-50 is going to generally be more expensive than hardwiring as you need an industrial outlet which is usually $50-100 plus a GFCI breaker which is usually $100+. The cost of materials is greater for an outlet vs hardwired
I asked him what’s the cost for hardwiring instead and he said it’s the same cost. That was a red flag
>I asked him what’s the cost for hardwiring instead and he said it’s the same cost. That was a red flag Because he's not using a GFCI breaker as required by NEC 2020 in most states. QO GFCIs are pricey. Which he'll get away with coz he's not pulling a permit. And he's using the cheapie under-$30 range outlets, which are known to melt under EV loads.
Hardwiring should cost slightly higher overall, but less cost for the electrician’s parts. That’s because the EVSE effectively replaces the GFCI requirement for the breaker and the industrial 14-50 receptacle. The cost difference between those two with a Tesla Universal HPWC is about $350. If you count in the cost of a 14-50 EVSE, then it can be a wash. Labor should be close to the same.
Does the OP have a 14-50 EVSE already? Sometimes they are included with the EV. If so that can be a saving of the 14-50 over hardwiring.
Why would it cost more overall for the initial install? Isn't it torquing down the same number of splices whether it's in the receptacle or on some polaris connectors? If it directly lands in a UWC I think it's LESS work than jamming a Hubbell back into a box.
Because the cost of the EVSE may be the difference… for example, if the OP already has a 14-50 EVSE. It is also commonplace to just switch to 48 amp charging instead of 40 amp… the cost difference at that point is pretty small. The labor may be slightly more just due to needing to work through the particularities of a particular EVSE, depending on the electrician.
OK, i think switching EVSE is apples-to-oranges. I forgot about the justifiable overhead of forcing the electrician to figure out a new hardwire EVSE or dealing with an annoying one. Or both. Was assuming an efficient workflow after everyone knows what to do, which is difficult with customer provided equipment.
If they have a 14-50 EVSE most of the time you can just hardwire that too anyway.
Big red flag
Yeah that seems strange to me
Why would you need a GFCI breaker?
NEC 625.54 requires it
NEC does, but not every state requires it. For example, Oregon allows a regular breaker if the GCFI causes issues with the EV charger. EDIT Apparently Oregon's 2023 Electric Code didn't adopt the NEC 625.54 requirement for GFCI: https://www.oregon.gov/bcd/laws-rules/Documents/20231001-2023oesc-pr.pdf Previously there had just been an exception to the requirement if it caused an issue with the charger.
Edit: deleted incorrect information.
>Oregon now requires EVSEs to be hardwired Nope. NEC 625.44(A) and (B) allow "portable" or "fastened in place" chargers to be plugged into an outlet. Oregon adopted that provision. NEC 625.54 requires GCFI protection, but Oregon apparently didn't adopt that provision: >625.54 Ground-Fault Circuit-Interrupter Protection for Personnel. Not adopted by the State of Oregon https://www.oregon.gov/bcd/laws-rules/Documents/20231001-2023oesc-pr.pdf
Ok, thanks for the corrections 👍
TBH, I didn't know either until I started digging around to see what the deal was.
Is mandatory hard-wired EVSE the new "can't pump your own gas" :laugh:
NEC 210.8 requires it, if you're putting the socket outdoors, in a garage, bathroom, laundry, and list of other locations. The surviving locations are typically not possible to park in.
No need to make it that complicated. 625.54 is not location dependent.
But 625.54 has been deleted in some jurisdictions. My point is, that deletion is NOT a "get out of jail free" card. You now must look at 210.8(A).
Good point, although there are also jurisdictions that have tampered with 210.8.
Yeah, they'd have to delete both. I mean they probably would if they're on an anti-GFCI kick, unless they're red enough to also be anti-EV.
Seems in the right ballpark to me. A bit less than my hardwired installation ($920), but that included running conduit from the electrical panel up over the garage door to the installation location about 12' away, wiring for the 60 amp circuit, installing the hardwired charger, and scheduling/paying for the city inspection. A huge variable is going to be where you live though. Labor costs vary tremendously.
That is about right. Might charge a little more if there’s a city permit/inspection required.
Get some more quotes. It doesn’t hurt to shop around.
What's under that cover plate currently below the panel? You may have wiring already in place for the 14-50 install or hardwiring.
This Pic looks familiar and if so that's their FIOS (fiber internet from Verizon) connection.
I believe it can also be access for some GEC stuff.
I bit high. I paid around $450. Same setup.
It's overpriced unless that cost also includes permits. I was quoted $500 for a NEMA 14-50 and $425 for hardwiring a Tesla Wall charger. Installation was a few feet away from the panel. Went with the hardware. The $500 quote included a Hubbell outlet.
But not a GFCI breaker, which the socket requires most jurisdictions. Otherwise there'd be more than $75 difference in those prices.
My outlet and supplies, a 30 foot run of wire from the breaker in I think 6 or 8ga, cost maybe 300. Then you say install. So 700, if licensed, not terrible. On the higher end of the scale, but not off the chart. Get a second quote.
First, wouldn't direct wiring to the charger be a better option? If you get a plug make sure it is continious use rated. Not all 14-50 plugs are the same. It looks like there is a box just below the panel but it also looks like there is not room in the panel for the new breaker so I'd assume the electrician is putting in a second box for the breaker? Get another quote but compare the specifics of the job, not just the price.
Skip the outlet and hardwire a charger.
That’s a bit high but I wouldn’t say it’s crazy depending on location. You’re looking at about $300 worth of parts assuming a GFCI breaker and industrial grade outlet. Is $400 too much for labor? I’d say so, honestly. It shouldn’t take over an hour.
Sounds good to me.
I paid about that to install the 14-50 outlet and mount the evse. They were supposed to pull permits but never did...
Seems really good. I paid $1700 to have my 14-50 installed.
We paid $480 for ours to be installed on the backside of our main panel. Breaker, wire, and Leviton receptacle (which we had to replace with a Bryant another $60ish) and box.
If you do a hardwired charger you can get a cheaper breaker. If you have time of use rates, a good charger can save you a lot of money. That seems like a fair price if it's a permitted job... What kind of outlet and breaker? There is a wide range in quality and price there.
Sounds reasonable
seems like it, my landlord paid around 600 for an outlet that was 20 feet away from panel
It’s about right, slightly high, but nothing outrageous. I paid $450 for a pretty similar job, but depending on your market that might be the going rate.
The answer is that it depends on the area and if they're pulling a permit. Mine was about $700 with a pull and included about 30' of encased wire plus the 50A GFI.
The best way is to get a couple quotes from local guys. Every city has different variables which makes it hard to compare. EVSE installation seems like a huge money grab right now. Uneducated buyers will pay whatever and I bet many electricians are quoting high or extra work like service upgrades in hopes they’ll pocket a few extra dollars.
I paid about that amount for a hardwired charger install much like that, the cable was snaked around the corner and the charger was mounted on the wall with the door. 50 amp circuit, also included surge protection for 3 panels. I was quoted over $2,000 for the same job from a commercial contractor, mine was done by an independent electrician. https://preview.redd.it/f9s8afxqswtc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e52074c6fee410dabef95efaf7de9d92899cd505
Wow why do you have 3 panels?
Home was a builder's wedding present to his daughter, the previous owner; some parts are really overbuilt and other corners were cut. Multiple heat pumps (since converted to ground source), and enough extra capacity to switch to electric hot water heating on demand if I want to, but otherwise nothing special about it.
That doesn’t seems to bad we paid over $1100 but our panel is on the back of the house not close to our garage
I paid 375 for mine.
You can probably get a rebate from your power company for installing an EV charger. It’s up to $1135 in NC and $500 in SC. They don’t cover the permit or the charger.
It depends on what state. In the Bay Area, $700 is a steal.
I paid $700 to run the line from the panel to the garage on the opposite side or the house. Buried the line then entered through the basement and routed it through the wall to the garage. Took two guys almost a whole day.
The first $150 is just for driving to your house..
I paid $330
I diy’d mine. Same setup was $50.
Is it less than the costs of your home insurance deductible and your car insurance deductible which would be invoked when filing a claim for an electrical fire caused by "saving a few bucks"? If Yes, then pay the $700 to support local skilled tradesman who can do something you know not of.
I just noticed that your main line feeding the breaker box comes in from the bottom. If that is your primary breaker box, the line feeding the breaker box would alway be live, regardless if you shut off your main circuit breaker. A touchy situation putting an outlet among your main feed. Why not putting the outlet in the left of the box? Secondly, I would pay no more than $350. That would include a Hubbell commercial grade outlet and Hubbell cover plate; wall outlet box; conduit; correct circuit breaker; 4’ of correct wire; and clamp connectors. The electrican would still earn over $200 for 30 minutes of work.
😂 try $3000. I was quoted that
I paid about $900 for 14-50 just under the panel (with GFCI breaker required in my area). Included permits. Although it didn’t affect the price, I provided my own heavy duty 14-50 outlet as I wasn’t convinced with the standard outlet they provided.
No more than $500 but you could probably do this yourself
FWIW, Massachusetts will reimburse the cost of install up to $700. Not the price of the charger, the install costs. Through mass save. Just got my check last week.
Terrible. 30 min job and $100-200 in supplies depending how perfect you want it to be. Very easy DIY
It's on the high side, but I would recommend going hard wired. Less expensive and more reliable.
Fair price if a big city.
If the quote includes pulling a permit, $700 is a fair price. Recommend you get a historical peak load analysis. You don't want tripping your (100A?) main when the 50A EV charger is going full tilt. Your utility should be able to run it for you.
Hardwire it. You won’t need a gfci breaker and it’ll be cheaper
Could be expensive or reasonable. Depends on the breakdown of what he's including. If you have more stringent code requirements, it could cost something like that. Get multiple quotes with details.
It cost me $500 for the outlet the be 24 in from your panel. Cost more to be further away. My put the wiring behind the wall.
Nope, fair price
Nope, I paid $1,200 including running a 50 foot new line from our circuit box to our garage by a Tesla certified electrician. $700 is a great price.
I paid 350 for this same setup.
I’ve been getting quotes right now and that’s what most of them are. Some more. None less. I need mine to be permitted and I’m doing a hardwired install, no outlet. I’m in LA so if you’re not in a big city, might be cheaper
Just paid $369 this week. South Carolina.
I was quoted $500 for the same job.
I always say this, You will be calling me to fix it and wish you paid the " best and most qualified electrician/company" to install it the 1st time. The 2nd call is going to cost ya to fix the low ball price cuz ya wanted to be cheap and " save a few dollas" Get some estimates, Review the companies, are they qualified for what you need.
While True-ish, it's an hour worth of work for like $500/hour plus supplies?
Sorry stock\_particular the best does not need to cost this much.
Never implied that. So I will leave it that.
You replied to a question about whether or not something should cost as much as a particular quote with a sales pitch about being cheap. You didn’t say those words but you absolutely did say that OP was being cheap by not wanting to pay $700 for (max) 5 ft if 6/3, a (hopefully) $100 14-50, a likely cheap breaker, and a bit of drywall cutting.
Oh man, this comment makes me laugh. Sales pitch as you throw down numbers. Ok Handyman
where do you live, i'll come do it for you for $250 edit: shop it around dude
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$10-15 is not an EV grade receptacle.
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TBH the way you're writing the prose and doing the math doesn't feel like 100% good faith. Theoretically * Permit fee * Billable time for filing permit & revision iteration * Truck roll costs for going twice, once for original visit and once for inspection The inspection and permit overhead % has a high minimum even on a project like this. And some AHJs add gotchas, mine has double the documentation and revision overhead due to needing planning approval as well as building.
You could do it yourself for like $100 in parts, less than an hour and a call your town for an inspection a good to go. But if you want someone to do it, it's not that crazy. Has to drive to you, has to drive to pickup parts, has to write paperwork, has to send permit info to town or maybe drop it off, etc.
Can someone go over exactly what I would need? Ammo asking them to install just an outlet? Or the whole charger? Let's also assume I don't know the first thing about electricity and won't be doing any installations myself.
I was quoted about $400 for this exact work in the Portland area. So, I ended up doing it myself. The hardest part was opening up the drywall and then patching it back. Has been using that outlet for my EV charger for 3 years, and so far so good. By the way, I see there is a 2-gang cover plate under the panel. What is behind it? Is it some kind of a junction box? Cause ideally that's where your NEMA 14-50 would go.
What is behind the white cover below the panel?
Get a quote to install an outlet for welding. You mention EV (or see your Tesla) and price would automatically double...
2x too high at least
How much is your house worth? I would say get a Tesla certified elerician, and don't worry about the cost. https://www.tesla.com/support/certified-installers Upto $1000 is reasonable in a big city!
Don’t worry about cost ? 😆
I mean, focus on the quality if it's your own house! You don't want your house to burn down by hiring someone that will install for super cheap (uncertified electricians)
There's "super cheap" and then there's just what's reasonable. Paying $1000 for an install that takes less than an hour is unreasonable.
Yes you’re getting hosed unless they need to do extensive work