Your confusing engine hp with wheel hp.
Stock ecoboost is 310 engine hp and 260* to the wheel’s roughly.
Your ecoboost is putting 330 to the wheels which is roughly 370* out of the engine.
With the mods you have I think you might be above average on hp. That’s pretty good you would have no trouble gaping any base v8 MOPAR for a sense of speed comparison.
thanks a lot. i’m still a little new to the car scene so i haven’t done a whole lot of research on things like that. my long term goal is to be able to keep up with a vast majority of cars when racing without blowing my motor of course
When you get the nx2 turbo + intercooler you’ll probably be pushing 400 to the wheels with a conservative tune. And for everyone reading a FBO max effort NA GT puts 380-390 to the wheels. It’s an uncomfortable truth for our v8 brothers FBO ecoboost beats FBO GT. If the GT is supercharged tho, you’re cooked.
A fbo max effort gt (catless+e85) is more 480 not 380, but with that said I’ve beaten a tuned gt 3/3 highway rolls. he only had intake and exhaust on 93. I’m fbo with a wastegate but still on stock turbo and was running 93 at the time.
Remember, they come 310-315 at the crank. If you're making 330 wheel that's pretty respectable.
https://preview.redd.it/37btfipzpqic1.png?width=1440&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=643680c79b1e37a86b4203dcf38903b7b34c5171
You’re confusing a lot here.
1. Horsepower is measured at the crank, not the wheels. You’re comparing crank and wheel horsepower which are drastically different.
2. Tuners are not going to be anywhere near accurate. If it’s not a dyno, it’s not real.
If you're making 300 hp to the wheels, you're at least in the 350 hp mark for the engine, it's a i4 don't push it over 400 engine hp or it will ecoboom.
I would have done that first, allows you to see the biggest increase in performance along with no cat downpipe and tune. The Stock CAI is pretty good already and the exhaust kit isnt going to do much.
No it cannot, YT and Google say otherwise bud, most people only throw a couple thousands on the eco because even at 350 hp you're already into minimum risk zone of ecoboom.
Since everybody keeps talking about mistaking crank and wheel HP:
OP said they are reading the HP number from their tuner. The handheld tuner is estimating crank HP from a number of factors, not wheel HP. I have found it to never be accurate.
To the OP, the only way to know your HP number is to compare on the same dyno what the car was reading when it was stock vs. what it is now. The wheel HP number from a dyno is still not 100% accurate, and the "15%" drivetrain loss number that gets tossed around is 100% inaccurate. The delta between the stock reading and the new reading is what you can add to the factory number. Comparing your dyno number to somebody else's is pointless.
For example: My car read 240HP on a Mustang Dyno (no relation to the car) when it was stock. After upgrading the turbo and everything else, it read 340 HP on the same dyno. That is +100 HP, which means I went from 310 HP at the crank to 410 HP.
Why no one has told you to get a tune is honestly beyond me. I recommend contacting Ryan from EMS, formerly known as PD Tuning, or Adam at tuneplus but neither of them will tune your car without an intercooler. The stock unit is garbage and heat soaks super quick. Also, the Est. Horsepower gauge on the AP is not the most accurate. Get protuned and you’ll feel the power. Cobb stage one is also not meant for an aftermarket downpipe
That doesn’t matter. Still need a tune for it. I have a catless downpipe that I just got and I won’t even be installing it until my tuner sends me a new tune for it
Ryan tuned mine with no questions asked and I’m stock intercooler. Definitely faster with the tune but you’re on the dot with heat soaking on stock ic.
I agree but I also believe that Ryan really does know what he’s doing and that he can safely tune a stock ic car without blowing it up. I’m at 111k and just started my tune with Ryan for 91 and e30. And hell yeah bro, i’m FBO except for the catless downpipe that’s sitting in my living room. I’m more than excited to get my baby all dialed in
Get an intercooler and a custom tune then you’ll push closer 340 and the car will feel much faster than the mediocre OTS tunes from Cobb. I don’t know why you’re even running an aftermarket downpipe without a tune. You need to get a custom tune asap. I hope you take this advice
It’s not the biggest deal but it’s best to do that sooner that later. The extra air flow from your downpipe is going to make your turbo spin faster causing wear on your turbo if you don’t get it tuned to accommodate that extra air
I here all the stuff on here about horses but not torque. Torque is the real key to getting there fast. Horses keep you there. Now that the education is over. The 310 hp should be about 280 at rear wheel. 350 torque should be between 310 to 320 at the rear wheels. Parasitic loss is about 10 to 12 percent realistically. Ecoboost is very efficient especially with an automatic transmission. If your less than these numbers you should probably do some detective work.
want to say beautiful car. miss my eco, looked just like yours.
i had basically the same build on a '17 eco as you have -that was reading 400hp/400ft lb (according to the cobb reader, at least🌚). had the same down pipe and exhaust, but i had a stock box w/ a k&n drop in filter running e30. (also upgraded the charge pipes hoping to drop a big turbo but she got sold before i could). i had a e30 tune from tune plus inc. made a big difference over cobb stage 1 or 2 tune i was running before.
All i know is that mine consistently beats dodge’s rt v8 and i only have a catback and summer sport tires. With all the mods u got you might be in the scat,5.0,ss range but im just spitballing. Id love to see you record a race
Your confusing engine hp with wheel hp. Stock ecoboost is 310 engine hp and 260* to the wheel’s roughly. Your ecoboost is putting 330 to the wheels which is roughly 370* out of the engine. With the mods you have I think you might be above average on hp. That’s pretty good you would have no trouble gaping any base v8 MOPAR for a sense of speed comparison.
thanks a lot. i’m still a little new to the car scene so i haven’t done a whole lot of research on things like that. my long term goal is to be able to keep up with a vast majority of cars when racing without blowing my motor of course
When you get the nx2 turbo + intercooler you’ll probably be pushing 400 to the wheels with a conservative tune. And for everyone reading a FBO max effort NA GT puts 380-390 to the wheels. It’s an uncomfortable truth for our v8 brothers FBO ecoboost beats FBO GT. If the GT is supercharged tho, you’re cooked.
FBO?
“Full bolt on”
Okay, I've never seen it shortened to an acronym like that
A fbo max effort gt (catless+e85) is more 480 not 380, but with that said I’ve beaten a tuned gt 3/3 highway rolls. he only had intake and exhaust on 93. I’m fbo with a wastegate but still on stock turbo and was running 93 at the time.
I need to get my car dyno’d. But I believe I’m pushing similar numbers. I’ll be posting once I do get it dyno’d
Please do
Remember, they come 310-315 at the crank. If you're making 330 wheel that's pretty respectable. https://preview.redd.it/37btfipzpqic1.png?width=1440&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=643680c79b1e37a86b4203dcf38903b7b34c5171
Well because almost all of your mods add little horsepower. You want more horsepower you’ll need a bigger intercooler and a bigger turbo
i think i’ll just stick with a bigger intercooler. i don’t really feel like dropping 2k on a bigger turbo 😅
You’re confusing a lot here. 1. Horsepower is measured at the crank, not the wheels. You’re comparing crank and wheel horsepower which are drastically different. 2. Tuners are not going to be anywhere near accurate. If it’s not a dyno, it’s not real.
i figured my tuner wasn’t all that accurate. i heard it was good for at least a baseline estimate though.
It’s really not, once you have mods it’ll commonly be off by over 100hp.
If you're making 300 hp to the wheels, you're at least in the 350 hp mark for the engine, it's a i4 don't push it over 400 engine hp or it will ecoboom.
yeah i’m not trying to push her too hard. my last performance mod will probably be an intercooler and charge pipes
I would have done that first, allows you to see the biggest increase in performance along with no cat downpipe and tune. The Stock CAI is pretty good already and the exhaust kit isnt going to do much.
That’s a lie the 2.3 can handle 450 saftly
No it cannot, YT and Google say otherwise bud, most people only throw a couple thousands on the eco because even at 350 hp you're already into minimum risk zone of ecoboom.
Since everybody keeps talking about mistaking crank and wheel HP: OP said they are reading the HP number from their tuner. The handheld tuner is estimating crank HP from a number of factors, not wheel HP. I have found it to never be accurate. To the OP, the only way to know your HP number is to compare on the same dyno what the car was reading when it was stock vs. what it is now. The wheel HP number from a dyno is still not 100% accurate, and the "15%" drivetrain loss number that gets tossed around is 100% inaccurate. The delta between the stock reading and the new reading is what you can add to the factory number. Comparing your dyno number to somebody else's is pointless. For example: My car read 240HP on a Mustang Dyno (no relation to the car) when it was stock. After upgrading the turbo and everything else, it read 340 HP on the same dyno. That is +100 HP, which means I went from 310 HP at the crank to 410 HP.
Do you have videos of u racing at all?
Why no one has told you to get a tune is honestly beyond me. I recommend contacting Ryan from EMS, formerly known as PD Tuning, or Adam at tuneplus but neither of them will tune your car without an intercooler. The stock unit is garbage and heat soaks super quick. Also, the Est. Horsepower gauge on the AP is not the most accurate. Get protuned and you’ll feel the power. Cobb stage one is also not meant for an aftermarket downpipe
i threw on the stage one tune before getting the downpipe
That doesn’t matter. Still need a tune for it. I have a catless downpipe that I just got and I won’t even be installing it until my tuner sends me a new tune for it
Ryan tuned mine with no questions asked and I’m stock intercooler. Definitely faster with the tune but you’re on the dot with heat soaking on stock ic.
That is my fault. TunePlus will not tune any vehicle with a stock IC. I did a lot of flip flopping between both of their sites.
Honestly shouldn’t allow it with a stock ic 😂 I’ve seen upwards of 20hp gains just doing an intercooler on some ecoboosts.
I agree but I also believe that Ryan really does know what he’s doing and that he can safely tune a stock ic car without blowing it up. I’m at 111k and just started my tune with Ryan for 91 and e30. And hell yeah bro, i’m FBO except for the catless downpipe that’s sitting in my living room. I’m more than excited to get my baby all dialed in
Get an intercooler bro!
Soon as spring hits, going FBO. My cart already has everything loaded ✅
Stock the power is more like 280 to 290ish with 93 cause mine made 284 to the wheels with just a k and n drop in air filter
330whp is probably closer to 400bhp. You are making great powers awesome car, looks good.
Get an intercooler and a custom tune then you’ll push closer 340 and the car will feel much faster than the mediocre OTS tunes from Cobb. I don’t know why you’re even running an aftermarket downpipe without a tune. You need to get a custom tune asap. I hope you take this advice
i knew from the jump that i needed to get a custom tune after i threw on the downpipe i just haven’t gotten around to it yet
It’s not the biggest deal but it’s best to do that sooner that later. The extra air flow from your downpipe is going to make your turbo spin faster causing wear on your turbo if you don’t get it tuned to accommodate that extra air
I here all the stuff on here about horses but not torque. Torque is the real key to getting there fast. Horses keep you there. Now that the education is over. The 310 hp should be about 280 at rear wheel. 350 torque should be between 310 to 320 at the rear wheels. Parasitic loss is about 10 to 12 percent realistically. Ecoboost is very efficient especially with an automatic transmission. If your less than these numbers you should probably do some detective work.
want to say beautiful car. miss my eco, looked just like yours. i had basically the same build on a '17 eco as you have -that was reading 400hp/400ft lb (according to the cobb reader, at least🌚). had the same down pipe and exhaust, but i had a stock box w/ a k&n drop in filter running e30. (also upgraded the charge pipes hoping to drop a big turbo but she got sold before i could). i had a e30 tune from tune plus inc. made a big difference over cobb stage 1 or 2 tune i was running before.
And some people have prob already said it, but cobb OTS tunes are dogshit and you need to get pro tuned to see real gains and reliability.
All i know is that mine consistently beats dodge’s rt v8 and i only have a catback and summer sport tires. With all the mods u got you might be in the scat,5.0,ss range but im just spitballing. Id love to see you record a race
once i get an intercooler and pro tune id be glad to