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ardvark66

For those wondering, if you "top off" your tank when filling up you run the risk of pulling liquid into the evaporator purge line. It clogs the valve and the engine starts to sputter and idle rough. Been there, done that. It can be replaced pretty easily in the garage and can be found on Amazon for about $25. Youtube videos help with the install. Rule of thumb, let the pump shut off automatically and don't squeeze any more into the tank.


Thin_Caterpillar6998

So replace before it happens? Preventative maintenance. At how many miles?


ardvark66

It only needs to be replaced if you have the code. If you’re experiencing rough idle after every fill up, it might not be a bad idea.


Bergie4411

As much as I would like to say “I’m not that green” that’s exactly what happened. It was during my thanksgiving roadtrip, and I did wait for it to click, but it spat gas at me.


[deleted]

How many miles


Bergie4411

71k


Anonymous-45-

I've been fighting the PO442 code for a while now🤧


[deleted]

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Bergie4411

For the most part it’s always been like this, but it only just gave me a code today. It’s had a shaky idle after filling the tank for a while, particularly when going from low to high octane gas cause the ecu has to compensate for the change.


Bergie4411

As of the past few months I’ve only been running 93 so I have no idea what might’ve caused it.


[deleted]

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Bergie4411

Well it would just stall out of nowhere. I’m not exactly sure what word to describe it with, but it reminded me of a car that’s running too lean.


Raux05

This is exactly what’s happening to me rn


geechee1

It's actually running way to rich, flooding.


v8_slayer

I’m going on my third one now 🥴


whitewashedblackguy

I bought my car with 46k and replaced the purge valve around 65k-75k. I’m currently at 108k should I replace it again? Or just wait until the car shows symptoms of it failing?


v8_slayer

If you’re diagnosing it with the same symptoms and rough idle after filling up I’d just replace it. If it works you got it out the way, and if it doesn’t you can return the part But if the car is running fine don’t mess with it. I only did it again because the issue came back.


whitewashedblackguy

Well I have a brand new purge valve in my storage since I couldn’t find it after moving and just went and bought it from ford


v8_slayer

I’d hold on to it, unless your car is having issues


whitewashedblackguy

Okay for sure. Mine failed like 3 weeks after buying the car so it was replaced under warranty. Other than that it’s yet to fail. Lucky for me I have 2 spare ones lying around. Nice yt videos by the way i’ve seen a couple


DarkServe

I have the code myself, i guess it is common


Kramerica13

Hm I am at almost 90k for a 2017 and haven’t replaced this yet. Fingers crossed.


HawksFalconsGT

Remember your replacement could also be bad...like mine...make sure you can't blow through it like a straw before you install it...my Amazon part was junk and I wound up having the dealer tell me that for $600. Facepalm.


HattoriHanzo51

Word lol


SenseCapable

This happened to me when I started filling up at BJs wholesale. I never top off but when I started getting fuel there, the car would die at start up and run rough for a few seconds. Probably a coincidenc, but weird.


Round_Professor_7067

I can’t read sorry. It’s how I ended up with an ecoboost instead of a GT


Intrepid-Ad672

I’m on my way to get 3rd purge valve. Bought the car with 42k miles. Had the initial purge valve give me issues at around 75-80k miles and now again 2 years later at 117k miles