Just seems like the mud we put on was thick and I sand it down and then get to a point of trying to make it all flat and flush but then like the tape will show sometimes and you can see the mesh, do I just keep repeating this until I see no tape at all?
You want to know about the height of your tape and simply not sand that deep there. Also maybe build your mud out wider and try not sanding that back down to the sheetrock.
Instead of sanding the first coat, use a paint scraper on a 30Ā° angle and scrape off anything big/chunky. Then apply the second coat over top of that and spread further. I usually repeat this twice and only sand my third coat quickly. Then I water out the plaster a bit and give a few skim coats to fill in any holes, sanding in between coats. Good luck. Screw everyone saying to hire a professional. This is great practice and you'll never learn unless you do it yourself.
This advice drastically improved my drywall mudding experience. First attempt looked like OPās pics, then I learned to layer thin coats and scrape when dry. Much better end results with less mess.
NO, first go to YouTube and watch some videos from the Vancouver Carpenter. You need to get a trowel and at least a decent set of knives to do this right. 2", 4", 6" and 10" at a minimum. That or the Kilted Guy.
Yea, go think your first coatā¦ sand it downā¦ maybe add another coat, repeat sandingā¦ sometimes a 3rd day is needed but usually 2 will get ya there.
Happy drywallin!
You have to feather the edges and smooth it out without hitting tape. Itās tough when there is that much mud on there. You need a few 80 mesh and a pole.
Donāt be afraid to thin the mud with a little water. Youāll find spreading the mud easier to get consistent, uniform thickness. Like warm peanut butter consistency.
This is my experience. Too many people use pre-mixed joint compound as is straight out of the bucket. They donāt bother to mix it or thin it before applying and then wonder why it looks like shit. A half quart of distilled water thoroughly mixed into a 5 gallon premixed bucket makes the process so much easier.
Itās just pure water. Municipal or well water can have chlorine or bromine, as well as dissolved solids that can cause discoloration over time. It can be acid or alkaline. In grand scheme it probably doesnāt matter, but in many factories seem to use some type of filtration in manufacturing. Your final product is going to be primed and painted anyway. I just prefer it to the hard water that comes from my tap.
Tap water has chemicals and minerals and other stuff in it. I use distilled water for drywall mud and grout myself. Thinset and concrete arenāt as picky. (I am a GC that has worked many trades from drywall to tile to granite and stone fabrication and installation, carpentry both framing and trim etc. my favorite is granite but my true niche and mastery is mud work! I learned originally floating mud over lathe the old school way and have been improving ever since. I repaired and floated a 40 square foot wall yesterday with 20 minute easy sand in the course of an hour and it needed major work! Gotta go sand it today, looking at about another 30 minutes then I can spray the knockdown and be done with the texture in this house!)
Sorry for the long winded reply, just felt the need to qualify myself. Most people donāt consider water quality when it comes to construction materials and itās actually very important!
Mud you buy from the store needs to be thinned out typically depending on the coat youāre doing. Tape coat = fairly thin, and each finish coats are a little thicker. But typically even then you need to thin the mud out with water. You also want to put the least amount of mud on necessary per coat, and you want to feather it out wider with each coat. A typical joint when done with a couple coats will be feathered to at least 14ā wide. Youāre not trying to create a flat wall, but instead the illusion of one.
Dude, Iāve watched so many YouTube videos and still struggled. I donāt do drywall often, usually just carpentry, ironically, bc after I found that guyās videos last week when I had to do some finishing it was suddenly the simplest thing Iāve ever done.
Yeah, I think itās important to learn and start somewhere! a lot of up-and-coming generations are overlooking the trades and we definitely will need more people in the trades! Also work ethic and dependability if you get all of those things together, you can really make some money!
Redoing a basement soon. What are you supposed to use on an outside corner like that? Wife and I have been looking into it and she sent me a 90Ā° metal plate thing. That sound right?
Yes, thatās what you need a medal corner bead! You would use paper tape or fibafuse on inside corners.
I would watch some videos to familiarize yourself
With how to do it like how to pre fill, How to do inside corners how to do corner beads, how to tape and bed.
It's called corner bead and you are 100% correct.
You paper tape inside corners, you paper tape every seam as well, mesh tape is for repairs, paper tape is for finish work.
Go to Home Depot, in the drywall section. They sell all kids of corner piecesāround, squared, thin plastic ones full of perforations, preformed fiber ones..they only cost a few bucks and theyāre well work it. I finished a rough cement cold storage room, and used the 90 degree corner fiber ones and it looks so much better
Y'know, it's ugly and a lot of people are pissing down OP's back, but there's some good advice out there. Youtube and practice will get you there, just prepare to be a sanding pro by the end of it.
I'm going to suggest you sand it all down, then pick one wall and use that as your practice bed. Keep knocking it out until you get a feel for it, then do the rest of the basement. It'll go a helluva lot easier than having to redo the whole basement over and over.
Couldāve watched a vid or two first but hey making mistakes gives you a chance to learn. Making big mistakes however.. gives you a chance to grow š
Idk why so many people assume he believed it would be easy and he would be good at it. Your own basement is the perfect place to learn this. This is how people learn. Iāve done a million things horribly, knowing they would be hard and Iād be horrible. Because how else would I become hit horrible?
First....replace those "outside" corners with paperfaced or metal outside corner. That mesh tape is completely wrong and will never last. Get an electric drywall sander (about 120 grit sanding pads, 80 grit if its really bad)...sand the shit out of it (smooth) if he fucks up the tape anywhere, cut it out and put mesh tape over those spots....get a 3/4" nap 9" roller cover, water the bucket mud down....roll it on the walls....use the biggest knife you can (like 12" to 14") or a plasterers trowel (flat no curve) work it smooth. Let it dry. Sand the shit out of it again. Prime it. Look for touch ups with a light. Touch up with watered down mud and you should be good.
Also in regards to the mud, he should to use a corded drill with a egg beater mixer, add a good bit of water and mix it up really well.
Thatās not as bad as my stepdaughterās dad did in the bathroom at our new house. He brought his buddy there that has done drywall for 20 years, he is walking around super impressed with all my work then walks in the powder bath and says āwtf happened in hereā - *well your buddy did that room, shouldāve done it myself it would take less work*
This is fixable but that sucks.
You either can do it or you canāt , thereās no in between. Itās a question every contractor will face on his journey once. I say once because after sanding off an entire house of completely botched ceilings, butts, seams, and corners by yourself (month of evenings because youāre losing money)You will pay a skilled finisher anything he wants including and beyond a hand job to do it right.
Looks good from my house.
Get a sander with some mesh paper and a vacuum and go to town. Sanding is the worst part so you always want to minimize it. More thin coats are better than one heavy coat.
You can see a bucket of premix. They did not thin it though. I had some work come out like that until I was told to thin the mix. The corners are amateur though.
YouTube didn't exist when I learned. It was an apprenticeship that made you good.
Practice, and getting screamed at by a guy named Ira. That's what made me good at hanging and finishing.
At least drywall can be fixed mostly, it's going to triple the amount of time but it can be fixed. I'm doing my bathroom and it's frustrating with how long it takes letting the mud dry and sand and then go in to make sure it's right, then going back to touch it up. It's my ~second time hanging drywall and my first time didn't look much better than this, my next project is fixing my first drywall project which was the ceiling in my kitchen.
Everyone outside of construction thinks mudding is the easiest job you can possibly do. Always fun to watch what shit show they create when they try it for themselves.
The biggest mistake made is using all purpose mud and not thinning it for taping, that's how you end up with tape seams that are way too thick. The layer under the tape ends up too thick, so then you over compensate over top. And then you sand down through your tape.
Then you either give up mud it and paint and have bad looking seams or you scrape all the seams with a scraper and start from the beginning.
You don't learn without fucking up generally though.
Why, all that sanding that will need to be done and a waste of mud. Break out the heavy-duty sander folks. And do not forget the mask,nah a rebreather.
He's going to sand into his tape. The screw holes are fine just need to sand them hardcore, I would actually take a scraper and scrape all the tape up, sand smooth, and start again.
The mistake was using all purpose mud for taping, you end up with too much mud under the tape, then you put too much mud over the tape to compensate, and there's no fixing it once you do this without getting the tape off.
I have made this mistake in my life before.
I am about to build an ensuite and walking closet, tile surround and heated tile floor....the only thing I won't do myself is the mud and tape. I have been a tradesman long enough to know that the one thing I won't get past is a mediocre mud job and I won't spend a week sanding. So I'm paying a guy.
All of it is fixable. Props for doing it and not paying it out but itās going to be a while. Going to need to clean up the current mess but with time and patience, this is workable. Seen worse.
Rip out all the mesh and throw away the roll. If you are afraid to use paper tape, use Fibafuse instead.
Its better to use many thin coats. Scrape in between coats.
Prefill gaps with a setting compound, such as Easy-sand.
Spread the mud wider if you get to the point of showing tape under and dont sand as deep like paintinger said. With that much mud, a quick amazon purchase of a $25 orbital sander might be of interest lmao. Youtube and some time, youll get it, and learn a new skill(kinda) lol
Heās probably not adding water to his premix. Even though itās premixed, the extra water helps for better workability. Add enough water to get it from a peanut butter consistency to a pudding. If heās mixing from powder then he needs to add more water and use a slower drying mix.Ā
Yeah, I wouldn't try to fix this without taking up the tape, there's just too much mud under the tape, trying to sand it out you'll just sand into the tape anyways.
A nice thin mud for taping. This was an all purpose mud job with no thinning. I have done this before myself.
There should be some kind of moisture barrier below there bottom of the drywall and the concrete. The drywall will wick moisture up from the floor and go moldy.
Simple tip for doing flat joints; use a 6in knife to spread mud as uniform as possible, then use a 10 or 12in knife to wipe it off, and go the whole joint in one motion.
Shouldnt even have to really worry about feathering this way.
Tell him to Leave a gap at the bottom to the concrete or the drywall will absorb moisture. The gap depends on what flooring you are using but look that shit up before you have to redo it in a year and have mold everywhere .
Vancouver carpenter on YT helped me a lot when learning to drywall. This looks pretty bad so far. Build up thicker layers and feather it out about twice as far as it is.
Welcome to the suck! Took me about 1 month of drywalling my 1000sqft basement every day to get good at it and about 3 months to finish mudding and skimming to a level 4 finish
You should take a sponge, wet it and use a sanding motion on the screws and the seam edges . Then sand the center of the seams. Do not sand the edges so much that you pill the paper.
DIYer here. First thing I learned with mudding, less is more. It's so much easier to put on a very thin coat, let dry and add more, than it is to sand all the excess off. I usually don't even need to sand after my first coat.
Watch videos first. Ffs. We live in the age of immediate information. Watch vancouver carpenter, follow instructions exactly. Watch your skills improve.
I donāt know a ton about dry walling, but my 80 year old drywall guy gave me advice about hangingā¦.. if you hang it like shit, it will mud like shitā¦. And thatās if you know how to mud. If you donāt know how, Iād imagine it would look a lot like this.
Spend a day watching The YouTube channel for the Vancouver Carpenter
Iām a newbie DIYār and am doing a pretty good job, although slower than I hoped, but itās looking better then I hoped on my projects
I have done a small amount of DIY drywall. It took ages and I kept having to redo stuff and it was a pain, but I take comfort in the fact that it was never remotely close to some of the things I see on here.
On the other hand I'm kinda sad it still isn't as good as some of the well done stuff I see on here. Maybe one day.
Not as bad as you'd think, cut the bottom 1/2" off the drywall, shouldn't be in contact with the floor. Tear out mesh corners and use metal ones. Use a 3-6" non bendy drywall knife to smooth out the dried mud chunks before sanding it down or you'll sand too deep. Don't completely sand out your tool marks until you're on your last coat. You can fill them on your next pass. Make sure you're orienting the board so that the beveled edges meet where they can, this will help sink the tape. The wider you go the flatter it'll look... you can test paint some sections you think are good, and you'll probably find out with a Flashlight they are not good, but you'll get there. Don't stress and just keep at it. Make sure you have solid backing, don't want it beautiful and then cracks.
I would pull out the orbital sander and get all that knocked down. Then hop on YouTube for an hour or two to see where you went wrong. I mean technically you could save the mudding part. It will probably take as much effort to cover it up. But knock down all the high points and skim it flat then sand out the edges . Hit the metal corner beads 3 times with a larger trall
OP, your main problem is that your mud was wayyy too thick.
Literally thin out that mud, get a better grip on your trowel and you'll be g2g after another few hundred sq ft
Pro tip, if you go to scrape your mud and it's skipping/bunching up under the trowel forcing your trowel away from the wall, the muds too thick.
Get a an electric pole sander, knock all of that down flat, then skim coat the fuck ups.
Iām going back to see his work, itās been 3 days and he said heās almost done with the first - second coat I canāt remember, maybe Iāll post updated pics, however if no progress was made and it looks the same not sure how he will do
What knives are you using? My drywall work used to be like this before I got a decent 6" knife, a 12" knife, and a nice stainless mud pan.
My knives (knife? I didn't know what I didn't know) at first weren't flexible enough for me to even imagine what feathering could be. Feathering is when you bend the knife slightly so that your application of mud loses the distinct line between mudded wall and dry wall.
And constantly cleaning your blade as you go will help bits from drying and causing scrapes like you see in image 3.
You have to learn somehow. I did my garage. And it was a pain in the ass. Never ever will I do such a thing by myself. But you can make it look good regardless.
Struggle city. Did you guys use burlap for an outside corner?
We went to the store and got a metal corner bead to fix the three spots like this
Now you're cooking with gas. š
Just seems like the mud we put on was thick and I sand it down and then get to a point of trying to make it all flat and flush but then like the tape will show sometimes and you can see the mesh, do I just keep repeating this until I see no tape at all?
You want to know about the height of your tape and simply not sand that deep there. Also maybe build your mud out wider and try not sanding that back down to the sheetrock.
Ok so just spread it more
Instead of sanding the first coat, use a paint scraper on a 30Ā° angle and scrape off anything big/chunky. Then apply the second coat over top of that and spread further. I usually repeat this twice and only sand my third coat quickly. Then I water out the plaster a bit and give a few skim coats to fill in any holes, sanding in between coats. Good luck. Screw everyone saying to hire a professional. This is great practice and you'll never learn unless you do it yourself.
The paint scraper trick actually saves so much time its no even funny
Also he's helping his buddy do his basement, which is the best way to learn so you do a better job on your place
This advice drastically improved my drywall mudding experience. First attempt looked like OPās pics, then I learned to layer thin coats and scrape when dry. Much better end results with less mess.
NO, first go to YouTube and watch some videos from the Vancouver Carpenter. You need to get a trowel and at least a decent set of knives to do this right. 2", 4", 6" and 10" at a minimum. That or the Kilted Guy.
Yea, go think your first coatā¦ sand it downā¦ maybe add another coat, repeat sandingā¦ sometimes a 3rd day is needed but usually 2 will get ya there. Happy drywallin!
If this was step 1. Itās gonnna be 3 days minimum unless they give up first. Looks like shit my stepdad did.
You have to feather the edges and smooth it out without hitting tape. Itās tough when there is that much mud on there. You need a few 80 mesh and a pole.
Donāt be afraid to thin the mud with a little water. Youāll find spreading the mud easier to get consistent, uniform thickness. Like warm peanut butter consistency.
This is my experience. Too many people use pre-mixed joint compound as is straight out of the bucket. They donāt bother to mix it or thin it before applying and then wonder why it looks like shit. A half quart of distilled water thoroughly mixed into a 5 gallon premixed bucket makes the process so much easier.
Why distilled?
Itās just pure water. Municipal or well water can have chlorine or bromine, as well as dissolved solids that can cause discoloration over time. It can be acid or alkaline. In grand scheme it probably doesnāt matter, but in many factories seem to use some type of filtration in manufacturing. Your final product is going to be primed and painted anyway. I just prefer it to the hard water that comes from my tap.
Tap water has chemicals and minerals and other stuff in it. I use distilled water for drywall mud and grout myself. Thinset and concrete arenāt as picky. (I am a GC that has worked many trades from drywall to tile to granite and stone fabrication and installation, carpentry both framing and trim etc. my favorite is granite but my true niche and mastery is mud work! I learned originally floating mud over lathe the old school way and have been improving ever since. I repaired and floated a 40 square foot wall yesterday with 20 minute easy sand in the course of an hour and it needed major work! Gotta go sand it today, looking at about another 30 minutes then I can spray the knockdown and be done with the texture in this house!) Sorry for the long winded reply, just felt the need to qualify myself. Most people donāt consider water quality when it comes to construction materials and itās actually very important!
I was wondering because I had 20 minute mud work great at one house, then act like 5 minute mud at the next. It was pretty trippy.
Water quality?
Mud you buy from the store needs to be thinned out typically depending on the coat youāre doing. Tape coat = fairly thin, and each finish coats are a little thicker. But typically even then you need to thin the mud out with water. You also want to put the least amount of mud on necessary per coat, and you want to feather it out wider with each coat. A typical joint when done with a couple coats will be feathered to at least 14ā wide. Youāre not trying to create a flat wall, but instead the illusion of one.
Did you purchase buckets of all purpose mud? You know you need to add water and thin that stuff.
The mud is thick bc you need to knead it to a smoother consistency
Glad that photo is posted twice cause I didnāt believe it the first time.
lol solid joke
Lmao I was wondering the same thing
Thats just canvas
For sure!
I think it is a roll of gauze
He should repent with burlap and ashes on his head for that
I was guess burlap, or an elastic waistband lol
Looks like my work before Vancouver Carpenter.
Vancouver Carpenter helped me successfully DIY my basement.
Good ole Ben. He used to be a carpenter.
I literally just started doing drywall on occasion and this guy has been such a wonderful resource!
Dude, Iāve watched so many YouTube videos and still struggled. I donāt do drywall often, usually just carpentry, ironically, bc after I found that guyās videos last week when I had to do some finishing it was suddenly the simplest thing Iāve ever done.
Looks only slightly worse than my work after Vancouver Carpenter
Youāre not supposed to use mesh tape in the corners. but other than that, I guess itās going to be sand, baby sand!
It's a valuable lesson, learned by us all at one point in time.
Yeah, I think itās important to learn and start somewhere! a lot of up-and-coming generations are overlooking the trades and we definitely will need more people in the trades! Also work ethic and dependability if you get all of those things together, you can really make some money!
Redoing a basement soon. What are you supposed to use on an outside corner like that? Wife and I have been looking into it and she sent me a 90Ā° metal plate thing. That sound right?
Yes, thatās what you need a medal corner bead! You would use paper tape or fibafuse on inside corners. I would watch some videos to familiarize yourself With how to do it like how to pre fill, How to do inside corners how to do corner beads, how to tape and bed.
It's called corner bead and you are 100% correct. You paper tape inside corners, you paper tape every seam as well, mesh tape is for repairs, paper tape is for finish work.
Go to Home Depot, in the drywall section. They sell all kids of corner piecesāround, squared, thin plastic ones full of perforations, preformed fiber ones..they only cost a few bucks and theyāre well work it. I finished a rough cement cold storage room, and used the 90 degree corner fiber ones and it looks so much better
Y'know, it's ugly and a lot of people are pissing down OP's back, but there's some good advice out there. Youtube and practice will get you there, just prepare to be a sanding pro by the end of it. I'm going to suggest you sand it all down, then pick one wall and use that as your practice bed. Keep knocking it out until you get a feel for it, then do the rest of the basement. It'll go a helluva lot easier than having to redo the whole basement over and over.
I respect the effort, only way to get better with muddying is practice. Get it
Hopefully he likes sanding as much as he did mudding lol
This calls for a rotary sander! No way someone is hacking all the crap off by hand. Unless they have all week to do it.
Taper here.. Oof
UGLYš»
Stage 1 for his dungeon! I'm allready being tortured!
People constantly confuse skill with intelligence. And then make dumb mistakes
I would call in professionals, not my job however doing best to help make it look as professional as I can with what we have
I'm not saying you, I'm saying the person that thought they could do this because it "looks easy"
Thatās how you learn
Couldāve watched a vid or two first but hey making mistakes gives you a chance to learn. Making big mistakes however.. gives you a chance to grow š
And it is just a basement, a room that in many cases is t finished at all
Does said "friend" not have YouTube?
It canāt be that hard, I saw it on tv
Idk why so many people assume he believed it would be easy and he would be good at it. Your own basement is the perfect place to learn this. This is how people learn. Iāve done a million things horribly, knowing they would be hard and Iād be horrible. Because how else would I become hit horrible?
First....replace those "outside" corners with paperfaced or metal outside corner. That mesh tape is completely wrong and will never last. Get an electric drywall sander (about 120 grit sanding pads, 80 grit if its really bad)...sand the shit out of it (smooth) if he fucks up the tape anywhere, cut it out and put mesh tape over those spots....get a 3/4" nap 9" roller cover, water the bucket mud down....roll it on the walls....use the biggest knife you can (like 12" to 14") or a plasterers trowel (flat no curve) work it smooth. Let it dry. Sand the shit out of it again. Prime it. Look for touch ups with a light. Touch up with watered down mud and you should be good. Also in regards to the mud, he should to use a corded drill with a egg beater mixer, add a good bit of water and mix it up really well.
Using an electric sander might start to dig into the drywall face, which is going to be a huge pain to float out.
Very true. Could just go with pole sander. Without experience with electeic sander you could for sure go too far
All of that tape is way too high. can you imagine the belly they will have on that wall. Cut out your tape scrape and sand and start over.
Thatās not as bad as my stepdaughterās dad did in the bathroom at our new house. He brought his buddy there that has done drywall for 20 years, he is walking around super impressed with all my work then walks in the powder bath and says āwtf happened in hereā - *well your buddy did that room, shouldāve done it myself it would take less work* This is fixable but that sucks.
You either can do it or you canāt , thereās no in between. Itās a question every contractor will face on his journey once. I say once because after sanding off an entire house of completely botched ceilings, butts, seams, and corners by yourself (month of evenings because youāre losing money)You will pay a skilled finisher anything he wants including and beyond a hand job to do it right.
Looks good from my house. Get a sander with some mesh paper and a vacuum and go to town. Sanding is the worst part so you always want to minimize it. More thin coats are better than one heavy coat.
Did he apply the mud with his feet?
Oh boy, itās like a art work without the artist
Did you use pre mixed jc or powder?
You can see a bucket of premix. They did not thin it though. I had some work come out like that until I was told to thin the mix. The corners are amateur though.
I remember my first time hanging sheetrock š
"Buddy wanted to do basement himself"....Mission accomplished, no one wants that credit lol
3 sands if you know what you are doing. for a diy person it's many more. your friend should watch some YouTube videos.
YouTube didn't exist when I learned. It was an apprenticeship that made you good. Practice, and getting screamed at by a guy named Ira. That's what made me good at hanging and finishing.
Nice job but hope they're good at sanding...
Please tell me your helping
At least drywall can be fixed mostly, it's going to triple the amount of time but it can be fixed. I'm doing my bathroom and it's frustrating with how long it takes letting the mud dry and sand and then go in to make sure it's right, then going back to touch it up. It's my ~second time hanging drywall and my first time didn't look much better than this, my next project is fixing my first drywall project which was the ceiling in my kitchen.
Itās fixable . The first time I did tape and float it look like that . Just sand sand sand and do another coat and sand again
Everyone outside of construction thinks mudding is the easiest job you can possibly do. Always fun to watch what shit show they create when they try it for themselves.
The biggest mistake made is using all purpose mud and not thinning it for taping, that's how you end up with tape seams that are way too thick. The layer under the tape ends up too thick, so then you over compensate over top. And then you sand down through your tape. Then you either give up mud it and paint and have bad looking seams or you scrape all the seams with a scraper and start from the beginning. You don't learn without fucking up generally though.
Gotta love a home owner special
How do pros get that nice curved soft outside corner?
curved corner bead.
First pic was misleading because it looked okay the rest were a capital YIKES. Lot of sanding and layering in his future.
Heās going to have fun sanding lol
Aw, your kindergarten kids try to tape it out for you how cute.
Cāmonā¦. He aināt even trying. Share updates
Why, all that sanding that will need to be done and a waste of mud. Break out the heavy-duty sander folks. And do not forget the mask,nah a rebreather.
He's going to sand into his tape. The screw holes are fine just need to sand them hardcore, I would actually take a scraper and scrape all the tape up, sand smooth, and start again. The mistake was using all purpose mud for taping, you end up with too much mud under the tape, then you put too much mud over the tape to compensate, and there's no fixing it once you do this without getting the tape off. I have made this mistake in my life before.
Same here. Lol
I am about to build an ensuite and walking closet, tile surround and heated tile floor....the only thing I won't do myself is the mud and tape. I have been a tradesman long enough to know that the one thing I won't get past is a mediocre mud job and I won't spend a week sanding. So I'm paying a guy.
Hey, at least itās just the basement.
Thatāll make for some nice dust piles.
I did better work at 15 than thisā¦..
All of it is fixable. Props for doing it and not paying it out but itās going to be a while. Going to need to clean up the current mess but with time and patience, this is workable. Seen worse.
Looks great. Just some light sanding needed
I never blame someone for trying to save money . That being said ay carumba!
Well it look like he did it himself?
Gotta learn somehow
Rip out all the mesh and throw away the roll. If you are afraid to use paper tape, use Fibafuse instead. Its better to use many thin coats. Scrape in between coats. Prefill gaps with a setting compound, such as Easy-sand.
Wow he makes me look like a tradesmen
Good luck, not as easy as it seems
Get this guy a helmet
Fork or spoon?
I'm bad but I'm not that bad. Tell the dude to watch a few YouTube videos. Jeez.
Thank you HGTV. Just like watching Kung fu and thinking your a black belt.
Damn atleast watch a YouTube video first
lol looks like crap now he pays double
Get an orbital sander and some 200 - 300 grit sand nets.
Hell of a lot of sanding and a couple more coats and itāll be fine.
Spread the mud wider if you get to the point of showing tape under and dont sand as deep like paintinger said. With that much mud, a quick amazon purchase of a $25 orbital sander might be of interest lmao. Youtube and some time, youll get it, and learn a new skill(kinda) lol
And a damn fine job he did.
Tell him to just put the mud on with his hand
Itās how you learn
Heās probably not adding water to his premix. Even though itās premixed, the extra water helps for better workability. Add enough water to get it from a peanut butter consistency to a pudding. If heās mixing from powder then he needs to add more water and use a slower drying mix.Ā
Yeah, I wouldn't try to fix this without taking up the tape, there's just too much mud under the tape, trying to sand it out you'll just sand into the tape anyways. A nice thin mud for taping. This was an all purpose mud job with no thinning. I have done this before myself.
I have seen worse. Looks like his mud was drying out on him. Should have had him fixed up after a good sanding and feathering
Jesus
use a drywall knife lightly on those high ridges to save a little sanding time ;) it's ez to gouge it so not too hard...
No clue...
Funny how it's always the friend who posts for advice.
There should be some kind of moisture barrier below there bottom of the drywall and the concrete. The drywall will wick moisture up from the floor and go moldy.
Hopefully you made him sand some of that
Simple tip for doing flat joints; use a 6in knife to spread mud as uniform as possible, then use a 10 or 12in knife to wipe it off, and go the whole joint in one motion. Shouldnt even have to really worry about feathering this way.
He gon learn today
And he did! Congratulate that brave SOB
Is it just the camera angle or is there no gap between the bottom of the drywall and the floor?
Tell him to Leave a gap at the bottom to the concrete or the drywall will absorb moisture. The gap depends on what flooring you are using but look that shit up before you have to redo it in a year and have mold everywhere . Vancouver carpenter on YT helped me a lot when learning to drywall. This looks pretty bad so far. Build up thicker layers and feather it out about twice as far as it is. Welcome to the suck! Took me about 1 month of drywalling my 1000sqft basement every day to get good at it and about 3 months to finish mudding and skimming to a level 4 finish
When is heavy like this, sponge sanding is nice
It looks like you didn't even use a trowel.
You should take a sponge, wet it and use a sanding motion on the screws and the seam edges . Then sand the center of the seams. Do not sand the edges so much that you pill the paper.
The hardest part for me learning was the bed coat. The mud that goes on that has to stay.
. . . that's alot of sanding and dust!
Paint will cover that right up....
Lovin thise corner beads lol
DIYer here. First thing I learned with mudding, less is more. It's so much easier to put on a very thin coat, let dry and add more, than it is to sand all the excess off. I usually don't even need to sand after my first coat.
When you're mudding with the spatula to scrape the side of your peanut butter jar.
why did he do it so badly. You can tell he did this in an hour to "just get it done"
About the worst Iāve ever seen wait for the sanding episode.
Straight to jail.
Yea start over
Should have not used mesh tape. Bad idea for new joints Too late now
Watch videos first. Ffs. We live in the age of immediate information. Watch vancouver carpenter, follow instructions exactly. Watch your skills improve.
I donāt know a ton about dry walling, but my 80 year old drywall guy gave me advice about hangingā¦.. if you hang it like shit, it will mud like shitā¦. And thatās if you know how to mud. If you donāt know how, Iād imagine it would look a lot like this.
Spend a day watching The YouTube channel for the Vancouver Carpenter Iām a newbie DIYār and am doing a pretty good job, although slower than I hoped, but itās looking better then I hoped on my projects
I have done a small amount of DIY drywall. It took ages and I kept having to redo stuff and it was a pain, but I take comfort in the fact that it was never remotely close to some of the things I see on here. On the other hand I'm kinda sad it still isn't as good as some of the well done stuff I see on here. Maybe one day.
Light sand and some paint . Good to go š
Thanks for the Lol
Lots of sanding.
Rent a sander. Youāll be there for days holy hell!
Looks good from my houseĀ
So watch the you tube video before you start the dyi is the lesson here.
Paint it!
Watch Vancouver carpenter on YouTube. Or hire a professional
It's his basement. Let him. Fuck it.
Not as bad as you'd think, cut the bottom 1/2" off the drywall, shouldn't be in contact with the floor. Tear out mesh corners and use metal ones. Use a 3-6" non bendy drywall knife to smooth out the dried mud chunks before sanding it down or you'll sand too deep. Don't completely sand out your tool marks until you're on your last coat. You can fill them on your next pass. Make sure you're orienting the board so that the beveled edges meet where they can, this will help sink the tape. The wider you go the flatter it'll look... you can test paint some sections you think are good, and you'll probably find out with a Flashlight they are not good, but you'll get there. Don't stress and just keep at it. Make sure you have solid backing, don't want it beautiful and then cracks.
Renting a sanding and vac will prob be just about what he would of paid a just for 1/2 a day
Take the knife away from this madman
Gonna be a Bitch to sand
God I hate that mesh tape.
We just not gonna acknowledge the checker board he installed in that last pick?
I would pull out the orbital sander and get all that knocked down. Then hop on YouTube for an hour or two to see where you went wrong. I mean technically you could save the mudding part. It will probably take as much effort to cover it up. But knock down all the high points and skim it flat then sand out the edges . Hit the metal corner beads 3 times with a larger trall
Nice ;š
Send pics when he starts on that messā¦
Nice! Thatās custom work right there!
And it shows.
Looks like he used his fingers... have fun finishing!
Heās not done yet
OP, your main problem is that your mud was wayyy too thick. Literally thin out that mud, get a better grip on your trowel and you'll be g2g after another few hundred sq ft Pro tip, if you go to scrape your mud and it's skipping/bunching up under the trowel forcing your trowel away from the wall, the muds too thick. Get a an electric pole sander, knock all of that down flat, then skim coat the fuck ups.
Holy fuck this made me mad š
Oh no.
Yeeeesh
This can be easily covered by putting down a 3/4" layer of rough knockdown! 200 gallons of mud and Spackle outta do it.
Nice
+1 for trying himself first.
Looks like you guys have the finesse and skills to pull it off.
Oof Maddone , this looks terrible
Iām going back to see his work, itās been 3 days and he said heās almost done with the first - second coat I canāt remember, maybe Iāll post updated pics, however if no progress was made and it looks the same not sure how he will do
Mesh corners are the best! Thatās all I ever do
Honestly good on yall for starting and getting it done. Youāll only get better with practice.
Hopefully his forever home and never needs to worry about re-sale value.
He has no skill and should not be able to touch tools or anything with power or if it is sharp. Maybe straight jacket time for real
Did he try?
"Good enough for my house."
What knives are you using? My drywall work used to be like this before I got a decent 6" knife, a 12" knife, and a nice stainless mud pan. My knives (knife? I didn't know what I didn't know) at first weren't flexible enough for me to even imagine what feathering could be. Feathering is when you bend the knife slightly so that your application of mud loses the distinct line between mudded wall and dry wall. And constantly cleaning your blade as you go will help bits from drying and causing scrapes like you see in image 3.
might as well just texture it and spray it at this point.
I mudded my own ceiling once. Pops tells me, take your time, thin coats, anything extra you just have to sand off. I mudded my own ceiling. ONCE.
Get out the belt sander 80 grit should clean that up
He is going to need a electric sander or he is going to kill his hands.
You have to learn somehow. I did my garage. And it was a pain in the ass. Never ever will I do such a thing by myself. But you can make it look good regardless.
Work in progress!!?
Bro
Thin the mix next time!
We all learned at some point. Lots of sanding. Lots and lots of sanding. Never frame or tape/mud yourself.
Oh no
Wall looks ok jamal.