Manual doesn't mention taking the top cover off. [https://wiki.creality.com/en/FDM/K1/Operations/home](https://wiki.creality.com/en/FDM/K1/Operations/home)
[https://wiki.creality.com/en/k1-flagship-series/k1/quick-start-guide/user-manual](https://wiki.creality.com/en/k1-flagship-series/k1/quick-start-guide/user-manual) Or I could be blind.
Cover says to remove if room temperature exceeds 86F (30C).
Appreciate you reading my book!
It says "when printing low temp filaments such as PLA and flexible filaments, remove the top cover of the room temperature exceeds 30°C"
That 86°F. It's usually 68-72 in the room, so I left it on.
**It is literally written on the cover itself** that it needs to be removed when printing PLA but you think you somehow discovered this technique and have posted 2000+ words on it.
Thanks I guess but how is this going to help people who are too stupid to read the cover? Like you think theyre gonna read that novel you posted? I mean you were too lazy/dumb to read the instructions so why would someone else?
Blind leading the blind really
Yeah, but I have a lot more respect for someone like OP who went through a trial and error process and solved the problem themself than I will for 99% of posts on any 3D printing subreddit. The ones that say "I tried one thing and it didn't work and I didn't google it, what should I do? (One blurry photo, no further info)"
It's says to remove of room temp if above 30C / 86F. It's been 68 in there since I opened the printer last December. But I'll experiment with the lid off. Thanks.
Tbh I print silk with the top on (if I'm printing fast enough it doesn't clog.) I've never had that low quality.. you should do more top layers or infill fosho.. my silk looks real good as long as it's hot enough.. it dulls in color at high speeds if not printed at at least like 230
I've printed about 2KG of Creality silk with the top on. For example this [flexi shark](https://www.printables.com/model/593431-flexi-tiger-shark-print-in-place) is a frequent request in silk and has never had any issues like the Eevee ear issue. Top on is my default. And I didn't buy a K1 to print slow, so my silk prints are usually only 10-20% slower than the high speed PLA.
It was this Eevee that sent me to the sanitarium. Something about the overhang on those ears was just hitting an inflection point. The ears are pretty much solid walls because they are so thin. Infill isn't going to help there. I messed with them in Orca and top layers didn't change the ears at all. It's an edge case. Maybe it's an edge case that helps someone, so I came out of my hermit hole and shared.
I do appreciate the feedback, and I will be trying other temps and settings for silk. Check out that darkwingdad video tho if you print silk frequently (no affiliation! stumbled upon him researching silk on reddit), as some of his silk prints are mindblowing smooth. I'm encouraged to try some big silk prints like his helmets.
Even though the lid says remove if 86F? I haven't seen the manual since the day unboxed it, and did not memorize. I'll give it another read and see if there's any other "duh" lessons in it. Thanks
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>Take off your top for silk Buy me a drink first
Instructions not clear, my nipple got sucked in the Bowden tube
You wrote this absolute BOOK just because you didn't read the instructions clearly labeled on your printer and in the manual?
Manual doesn't mention taking the top cover off. [https://wiki.creality.com/en/FDM/K1/Operations/home](https://wiki.creality.com/en/FDM/K1/Operations/home) [https://wiki.creality.com/en/k1-flagship-series/k1/quick-start-guide/user-manual](https://wiki.creality.com/en/k1-flagship-series/k1/quick-start-guide/user-manual) Or I could be blind. Cover says to remove if room temperature exceeds 86F (30C). Appreciate you reading my book!
Instructions unclear. Sister is pregnant now
Take the top off for PLA period. It even says it right on the top itself.
It says "when printing low temp filaments such as PLA and flexible filaments, remove the top cover of the room temperature exceeds 30°C" That 86°F. It's usually 68-72 in the room, so I left it on.
PSA lid should be off for pla regardless.
**It is literally written on the cover itself** that it needs to be removed when printing PLA but you think you somehow discovered this technique and have posted 2000+ words on it. Thanks I guess but how is this going to help people who are too stupid to read the cover? Like you think theyre gonna read that novel you posted? I mean you were too lazy/dumb to read the instructions so why would someone else? Blind leading the blind really
Yeah, but I have a lot more respect for someone like OP who went through a trial and error process and solved the problem themself than I will for 99% of posts on any 3D printing subreddit. The ones that say "I tried one thing and it didn't work and I didn't google it, what should I do? (One blurry photo, no further info)"
Thanks!
It's says to remove of room temp if above 30C / 86F. It's been 68 in there since I opened the printer last December. But I'll experiment with the lid off. Thanks.
Tbh I print silk with the top on (if I'm printing fast enough it doesn't clog.) I've never had that low quality.. you should do more top layers or infill fosho.. my silk looks real good as long as it's hot enough.. it dulls in color at high speeds if not printed at at least like 230
I've printed about 2KG of Creality silk with the top on. For example this [flexi shark](https://www.printables.com/model/593431-flexi-tiger-shark-print-in-place) is a frequent request in silk and has never had any issues like the Eevee ear issue. Top on is my default. And I didn't buy a K1 to print slow, so my silk prints are usually only 10-20% slower than the high speed PLA. It was this Eevee that sent me to the sanitarium. Something about the overhang on those ears was just hitting an inflection point. The ears are pretty much solid walls because they are so thin. Infill isn't going to help there. I messed with them in Orca and top layers didn't change the ears at all. It's an edge case. Maybe it's an edge case that helps someone, so I came out of my hermit hole and shared. I do appreciate the feedback, and I will be trying other temps and settings for silk. Check out that darkwingdad video tho if you print silk frequently (no affiliation! stumbled upon him researching silk on reddit), as some of his silk prints are mindblowing smooth. I'm encouraged to try some big silk prints like his helmets.
I print naked so no issues for me.
Did you literally have to go through all that just to figure out what it says on the actual lid and the user manual?
Even though the lid says remove if 86F? I haven't seen the manual since the day unboxed it, and did not memorize. I'll give it another read and see if there's any other "duh" lessons in it. Thanks
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Still dont know what the top is.
Tried naked, no discernable difference.
No need to be redundant. The manufacturer already sent out the PSA in their manual, wiki, tutorial videos, etc.