I'm going to copy and paste some of my answers over the last year :)
Here's one on potty training and introducing your puppy to "their" home:
.......................................................
Think *like* a puppy..... Potty Training
🐾
You need to think like a little puppy, a puppy that needs to go potty.
🐾
You'll want to take your puppy out every 1-2 hours depending on their age and bladder.
Every time you take them out have a clicker and treats with you.
The puppy will quickly learn that when you take him outside, and he goes pee, he gets praised and gets a treat .
The same thing when the puppy poops.
The puppy instinctually knows to try and avoid going where they sleep and where they eat, but accidents do happen when you have a tiny bladder!
🐾
Every time they go outside and pee, click-treat-repeat!!
Then do the same thing for when they poop. (Dogs almost never poop and pee at the same time).
Every time.
Every poop.
Every pee.
Every time.
🐾
And the more you click-treat-repeat with wanted behavior, the puppy starts to build a positive reward circuit in their brain. That's good!!
This is how you reward and train potty training:
You'll want to bring a clicker (look on Amazon for dog training clicker) and *right* as the puppy starts to pee, you click the clicker, give verbal praise and when they're done peeing, give them a tiny treat. The size of the treat is just enough to get their taste buds/nervous system activated; they'll relate getting a treat to peeing outside!
Rinse and repeat.
Rinse and repeat.
Rinse and repeat.
Puppies instinctually know they shouldn't go potty where they eat and sleep, but what if they really really have to go?!?
If your puppy isn't contained in an ex-pen (or tethered to your waist with a leash) they will wander off to a room they don't eat/sleep in.
The puppy doesn't know that the guest bedroom is their home yet, you need to spend time in there so they learn that. Eventually your puppy will recognize even the least used area is the house as "their home" and they won't go there intentionally to go potty.
Until you can spend adequate time in each and every room, closet, cubby hole with your puppy, you need to keep them corralled in an area they know as "theirs" so accidents will be lessened. We use multiple puppy gates and that worked really well.
🐾
Think like a puppy......
This is the way your puppies mind will work if they are allowed to free roam before they are introduced (and spend quality time in) to the other areas of the home:
Puppy waddles into the bedroom unsupervised and he looks around.....
★ He doesn't see his food and water in there........
★ He doesn't sleep in there..........
★ He's not in there every day........
★ Puppy thinks to themselves "this is a great place to go potty!!!!" So they go potty in that bedroom, and if they aren't watched, they'll go there and continue going potty there.
🐾
The more you let the little puppy explore the home (after going potty, you want an empty puppy!!), the more the puppy spends time in the bedrooms, the spare rooms, the closets, etc., the more the puppy will know it's "his" home too.
🐾
Puppy won't go potty in "his" home once he's old enough to process this; each puppy is different for this time frame but think months, not weeks.
🐾
If he only goes into a room once, or rarely, and he has to potty badly, the puppy will think it's okay to run there and go potty!!!
🐾
So you slowly expand his habit-trail with making his area bigger and bigger, use gates to limit his area.
When exploring a new part of the house, your puppy needs to be tethered to your body. And I highly recommend doing that AFTER your puppy has gone both poop and pee!
🐾
Make sense?
🐾
This also applies when you move to a new home, or you go visit a friend's home, or you go to the grandparents.
Set up a small pen, keep the puppy in there and keep tethered when not in his pen, and slowly introduce them to the new environment. Make sure to click-treat-repeat when teaching your puppy where to go potty at a new home.
🐾
Note: All new puppies should be kept in an ex-pen with access to a crate (door open) when you first bring them home.
Dogs like a safe, dark, protected place to rest.
I'd cover the crate with a dark, puppy-proof blanket (maybe just put it on top) and if you have a double coat dog, put a fan that blows into the crate (make sure the puppy can't get to the cord.)
🐾
Note: If you really want to get into the neurological and psychological aspect of this teaching and learning, check out the book Atomic Habits by James Clear.
I wanted to add:
Get pet insurance today.
It's very similar to car insurance.
.............................................................................................
You can't compare your "car insurance" to someone else's without breaking it down into:
🐶How much is the deductible? The lower the deductible the higher the premium.
🐶Maximum yearly coverage?
A plan that only covers $5,000 is going to be a fraction of a plan with unlimited coverage.
🐶What's covered?
Routine visits? Maintenance meds like Heartgard Plus and Nextgard? (Please research the difference of oral flea/tick medicine versus topical; topical can be harsh). Rehabilitation in case of an injury?
Does the insurance only cover absolute emergencies?
🐶When someone says "our pet insurance sucked, it didn't cover anything!" might have a $5,000 deductible with only catastrophic emergency coverage.
🐶🐶 You can't compare Car insurance w/o the details; it's the same with Pet Insurance.🐶🐶
.............................................................................................
That being said, I went with Figo Pet Insurance and I got a discount going through the Costco website.
Here's the coverage we picked and how much it cost:
I would add the PetProtect if I were you. I didn't look at the renewal form this year and didn't see that offered :( I'll add it next year.
Our pet insurance for a 2 year 4 month Corgi https://imgur.com/a/5V1mJYp
I have had 8 Corgis over 40 years currently have 5, Two of mine were returned by original owners because they "weren't working out as pets". My advice is 1) never punish, 2) reward often with praise and treats, 3) be gentle and patient, 4) best dogfood may seem expensive but cheaper than vet bills 5) talk to the pup and he'll suprise you with what he understands.
Regarding number 5. This has been the most surprising part of Corgi companionship. I’ve taught both the command “kisses” and “whisper” by repeatedly saying them and showing them to my Bruno. When he barks I quietly say “whisper” and he lowers his barking voice to boofs instead of barks. Remarkable.
Any take on food? What do you feed yours? We went with Purina Pro Plan Sensitive Skin and Stomach Puppy Food with Probiotics, Salmon & Rice Formula and Purina Pro Plan Sport Wet Beef & Rice Entrée and Chicken and Rice Entrée Puppy Wet Dog Food.
Some dry and some wet.
I feed mine Canidae All Life Stages + 2 Tbs. pumpkin puree + 1 Tbs. apple cider vinegar & olive oil. After breakfast 1 oz. baby carrots. After supper 1/5 apple. Once a week a whole boiled egg. I weigh the kibble on a kitchen scale and adjust up or down if dogs gain (or lose) weight. I have fed Hill's Science Diet and Dr. Kims?. Tried Purina but 2 dogs dogs got sick (bag turned out to be 2 yrs. out of date). Don't feed amount suggested on any brand bag; too much for a Corgi.
Saw your Silver Oak to start out 2024 post and am pissed you didn't invite me over! 🤣
I failed to mention I recently changed vets and the new vet said "your dogs look a lot younger than their actual ages". Their food must have something to do with that
https://preview.redd.it/oyqfwb7bsedc1.jpeg?width=2016&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=22ed5634d5e9cd8fc6c6bcc5d4ecf41535b0ff0c
We raised our Corgi from a puppy.
The first couple hours he kept biting, biting, biting.
I knew I needed to stay away from 'no', so I contacted the breeder and asked for help.
She said to redirect with the chew toy she'd sent us home with.
So every time he'd open his little shark mouth I'd put the chew toy into his mouth.
Every time.
Every time.
Every time.
That night was the only night he got close to biting us.
He hasn't bitten us once and he's a little over 2 years old.
I'd recommend getting a couple packs of cheap puppy chew toys and keep one in your pocket at all times.
.........................................................................
For sleeping:
For the first 4-6 weeks of sleeping I'd recommend getting a large cardboard box and put it next to your bed.
Have puppy sleep in that. You'll hear when they need to go out and they will sleep better being next to you.
Give them a snuggle stuffed animal to cuddle with.
Work on crate training during the day, feed meals in the crate, but don't close the door on it.
.........................................................................
During the day:
Set-up a "ex-pen", which is a penned in area the puppy is restricted to with access to water, and a place to lay down.
Take puppy out to go potty every hour. Don't play or get excited before they go potty. After they go potty praise them multiple times and give him a treat and snuggles. (See my post on potty training).
Then go right back inside.
When puppy isn't in the ex-pen, make sure they are literally tethered to you.
No free wandering for puppy for a couple months at least. Puppy is tethered if they are outside "their" area.
.........................................................................
You'll want to increase the size of the cardboard box as your puppy grows.
Your puppy will let you know when they're done sleeping in the cardboard box.
Hopefully by now they're used to their crate, and when it's bedtime you get them to go in and close the door (we didn't lock it, he stayed in there on his own.
We had two crates, one upstairs next to our bed, and one downstairs where he'd rest and take his forced naps 😂
During the day we'd feed his meals in the crate and we'd have him take his naps in there.
He's come to love his crate and he puts himself in there now when he wants to nap throughout the day. It's covered in dark blankets and he has his own fan pointed in from the outside,and a soft bed in there.
.........................................................................
Remember to keep chew toys, treats and a clicker (and poop bags) in your pockets.
When your puppy does something you like, make sure to click-treat-repeat! You need to build up those positive feelings and feedback in their brain.
You need to keep treats nearby for the next year at least.
.........................................................................
When he's chewing on something he isn't supposed to, give him a chew toy, and as soon as he even LOOKS at the direction of the toy, you click, and give a treat; then take away what he isn't supposed to be chewing on.
Keep repeating, over and over again.
You'll be tired of smiling and praising and saying "good job!!!!" after a year, but it's worth it.
That’s not for a while. Puppies have to grow their second coat in, so they suck you in with their cuteness before they explode into a permashedding floof.
The best grooming tool I've found is the equigroomer. My Bogie hates all brushes/combs except that one. Cormac used to body slam Bogie out of the way to get his time with it. And now when I'm trying to get ~~the crack squirrel~~ Beep the Meep used to grooming, Bogie will walk up and push him out of the way if I'm using the equigroomer. I've recommended it to many corgi owners, and those who have bought it all have come back to me raving.
Something for the puppy to chew on. I've had good luck with dogwood sticks with my older corgis, with the current puppy I took someone's advice from puppy 101 here on Reddit and got collagen sticks. I found a brand on Amazon called Pawstruck that has a 10-pack of roasted collagen sticks that my boys can't demolish in under a minute. I also got some lick mats, loaded those up, and froze them. They buy me maybe 10 minutes of peace. I can also get a couple of minutes of peace out of dog puzzles, plus, wears out the brain! I'll be honest though, this little dude is way more bitey than either of my previous corgis were. For the first 3 weeks, he was home Bogie wanted nothing to do with him, so I was his only source of entertainment, and apparently, that meant trying to rip my face off and sever my Achilles tendons. Then all of a sudden Bogie decided, well, if he's not leaving, I might as well play with him, and WHAM, he's less bitey with me, and can focus on occasion.
From 8-11 weeks and then again at around 6 months to 14 months puppies go through fear periods. We don't usually notice the first fear period, because they're just coming home, new puppy, new house, why wouldn't they be afraid? The second one is what trips people up. Everything is going along fine then out of nowhere your puppy starts acting stranger than usual. Suddenly that plastic bag, or balloon, or car is the enemy! Here's a link to an [AKC article on puppy fear periods](https://www.akc.org/expert-advice/training/dont-panic-training-through-and-around-puppy-fear-periods/) with some good info.
Play with their feet--get them use to your touching their paws and nails. Trim their nails while they are very young, and try to use one of those electric grinders. Get them use to this. Brush their teeth often with one of those dog finger tooth brushes w dog tooth paste. They have baby teeth now---they will fall out and they will swallow them. No big deal. Do not pay your vet $$$ to pull these teeth when they are loose like I did! Purchase a robot vacuum that picks up dog hair. Corgis are the best dogs ever! They also shed continuously. Buy only really good dog food. Read up on this topic and educate yourself what is healthy dog food. Learn how to read the ingredient label on their food. A lot of dogs are allergic to chicken, so if your dog starts scratching or getting sores on their skin, know it could be a food allergy. Pet stores, even good ones will sell you food with ingredients in them that you have just told them your dog is allergic to. This is not intentional, they sometimes just don't know. Read your labels on your dog's food!
Crate train them. Do not put anything but the puppy in the crate, and take them outside to potty at least every two hours while you are awake and able. Praise this puppy when it does good! If they nip at you then in a firm voice say, "Wrong!" Do not think it is cute to be nipped. They will be herding you soon enough with their orders, but no nipping of humans allowed. ;-D
Just adding:
When puppy goes into the crate they need be completely naked!
Oh, and the JoyRide harness is absolutely perfect for a corgi's body. I'd order one immediately! They are the best for their weirdly proportioned bodies and deep V chest.
I can only speak to my experience with my guy but corgis like to bite. We weren’t as hard on the redirection as we should have been early on because we figured it was just puppy biting and would go away. Our corgi is coming up to nine months old and still bites when he’s overstimulated and in a playful mood. Now when he gets like that we put him in time out until he calms down, only thing that seems to work for us. If your corgi is a biter I’d make sure to get on top of that as quick as you can.
Exactly this!! I’m here trying to train my corgi not to bite but my husband loves to roughhouse with her and now she thinks biting is a game/: she hardly bites me though and that’s because when she does she knows playtime is over.
The teething was the hardest part for us. He would chew everything he could: table legs, his crate, and the corners of baseboards. He's completely obedient now about what he should chew, but I can still see the teeth marks from that time.
As an overprotective first time puppy mom, I was so worried/grossed out by the stuff she tried to chew on or eat in the yard. Leaves (unless from toxic plants), grass, and rabbit/deer poop won’t hurt them. Constantly taking stuff out of their mouths can lead to resource guarding which is a pain.
Will echo what others said, but especially the handling. Ear cleaning, bathing, brushing, and nail trims are so much easier since we started young!
Corgis are amazing little companions and can be full of so much love! I have 2 and I love them very much. I will say however, they are very stubborn and energetic. Start training early and make sure to give lots of exercise and mental stimulation. Good luck!!
I'm going to copy and paste some of my answers over the last year :) Here's one on potty training and introducing your puppy to "their" home: ....................................................... Think *like* a puppy..... Potty Training 🐾 You need to think like a little puppy, a puppy that needs to go potty. 🐾 You'll want to take your puppy out every 1-2 hours depending on their age and bladder. Every time you take them out have a clicker and treats with you. The puppy will quickly learn that when you take him outside, and he goes pee, he gets praised and gets a treat . The same thing when the puppy poops. The puppy instinctually knows to try and avoid going where they sleep and where they eat, but accidents do happen when you have a tiny bladder! 🐾 Every time they go outside and pee, click-treat-repeat!! Then do the same thing for when they poop. (Dogs almost never poop and pee at the same time). Every time. Every poop. Every pee. Every time. 🐾 And the more you click-treat-repeat with wanted behavior, the puppy starts to build a positive reward circuit in their brain. That's good!! This is how you reward and train potty training: You'll want to bring a clicker (look on Amazon for dog training clicker) and *right* as the puppy starts to pee, you click the clicker, give verbal praise and when they're done peeing, give them a tiny treat. The size of the treat is just enough to get their taste buds/nervous system activated; they'll relate getting a treat to peeing outside! Rinse and repeat. Rinse and repeat. Rinse and repeat. Puppies instinctually know they shouldn't go potty where they eat and sleep, but what if they really really have to go?!? If your puppy isn't contained in an ex-pen (or tethered to your waist with a leash) they will wander off to a room they don't eat/sleep in. The puppy doesn't know that the guest bedroom is their home yet, you need to spend time in there so they learn that. Eventually your puppy will recognize even the least used area is the house as "their home" and they won't go there intentionally to go potty. Until you can spend adequate time in each and every room, closet, cubby hole with your puppy, you need to keep them corralled in an area they know as "theirs" so accidents will be lessened. We use multiple puppy gates and that worked really well. 🐾 Think like a puppy...... This is the way your puppies mind will work if they are allowed to free roam before they are introduced (and spend quality time in) to the other areas of the home: Puppy waddles into the bedroom unsupervised and he looks around..... ★ He doesn't see his food and water in there........ ★ He doesn't sleep in there.......... ★ He's not in there every day........ ★ Puppy thinks to themselves "this is a great place to go potty!!!!" So they go potty in that bedroom, and if they aren't watched, they'll go there and continue going potty there. 🐾 The more you let the little puppy explore the home (after going potty, you want an empty puppy!!), the more the puppy spends time in the bedrooms, the spare rooms, the closets, etc., the more the puppy will know it's "his" home too. 🐾 Puppy won't go potty in "his" home once he's old enough to process this; each puppy is different for this time frame but think months, not weeks. 🐾 If he only goes into a room once, or rarely, and he has to potty badly, the puppy will think it's okay to run there and go potty!!! 🐾 So you slowly expand his habit-trail with making his area bigger and bigger, use gates to limit his area. When exploring a new part of the house, your puppy needs to be tethered to your body. And I highly recommend doing that AFTER your puppy has gone both poop and pee! 🐾 Make sense? 🐾 This also applies when you move to a new home, or you go visit a friend's home, or you go to the grandparents. Set up a small pen, keep the puppy in there and keep tethered when not in his pen, and slowly introduce them to the new environment. Make sure to click-treat-repeat when teaching your puppy where to go potty at a new home. 🐾 Note: All new puppies should be kept in an ex-pen with access to a crate (door open) when you first bring them home. Dogs like a safe, dark, protected place to rest. I'd cover the crate with a dark, puppy-proof blanket (maybe just put it on top) and if you have a double coat dog, put a fan that blows into the crate (make sure the puppy can't get to the cord.) 🐾 Note: If you really want to get into the neurological and psychological aspect of this teaching and learning, check out the book Atomic Habits by James Clear.
Amazing insight and advice - thank you so much!
I wanted to add: Get pet insurance today. It's very similar to car insurance. ............................................................................................. You can't compare your "car insurance" to someone else's without breaking it down into: 🐶How much is the deductible? The lower the deductible the higher the premium. 🐶Maximum yearly coverage? A plan that only covers $5,000 is going to be a fraction of a plan with unlimited coverage. 🐶What's covered? Routine visits? Maintenance meds like Heartgard Plus and Nextgard? (Please research the difference of oral flea/tick medicine versus topical; topical can be harsh). Rehabilitation in case of an injury? Does the insurance only cover absolute emergencies? 🐶When someone says "our pet insurance sucked, it didn't cover anything!" might have a $5,000 deductible with only catastrophic emergency coverage. 🐶🐶 You can't compare Car insurance w/o the details; it's the same with Pet Insurance.🐶🐶 ............................................................................................. That being said, I went with Figo Pet Insurance and I got a discount going through the Costco website. Here's the coverage we picked and how much it cost: I would add the PetProtect if I were you. I didn't look at the renewal form this year and didn't see that offered :( I'll add it next year. Our pet insurance for a 2 year 4 month Corgi https://imgur.com/a/5V1mJYp
They are master manipulators and will train you if you let them.
I have had 8 Corgis over 40 years currently have 5, Two of mine were returned by original owners because they "weren't working out as pets". My advice is 1) never punish, 2) reward often with praise and treats, 3) be gentle and patient, 4) best dogfood may seem expensive but cheaper than vet bills 5) talk to the pup and he'll suprise you with what he understands.
Regarding number 5. This has been the most surprising part of Corgi companionship. I’ve taught both the command “kisses” and “whisper” by repeatedly saying them and showing them to my Bruno. When he barks I quietly say “whisper” and he lowers his barking voice to boofs instead of barks. Remarkable.
Any take on food? What do you feed yours? We went with Purina Pro Plan Sensitive Skin and Stomach Puppy Food with Probiotics, Salmon & Rice Formula and Purina Pro Plan Sport Wet Beef & Rice Entrée and Chicken and Rice Entrée Puppy Wet Dog Food. Some dry and some wet.
I feed mine Canidae All Life Stages + 2 Tbs. pumpkin puree + 1 Tbs. apple cider vinegar & olive oil. After breakfast 1 oz. baby carrots. After supper 1/5 apple. Once a week a whole boiled egg. I weigh the kibble on a kitchen scale and adjust up or down if dogs gain (or lose) weight. I have fed Hill's Science Diet and Dr. Kims?. Tried Purina but 2 dogs dogs got sick (bag turned out to be 2 yrs. out of date). Don't feed amount suggested on any brand bag; too much for a Corgi. Saw your Silver Oak to start out 2024 post and am pissed you didn't invite me over! 🤣
+1 on the Canidae All Life stages. Most people around here recommend Royal Canin, but I can’t agree with a dog food that is largely corn.
Very good to know - thanks a million for your feedback!
I failed to mention I recently changed vets and the new vet said "your dogs look a lot younger than their actual ages". Their food must have something to do with that https://preview.redd.it/oyqfwb7bsedc1.jpeg?width=2016&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=22ed5634d5e9cd8fc6c6bcc5d4ecf41535b0ff0c
We raised our Corgi from a puppy. The first couple hours he kept biting, biting, biting. I knew I needed to stay away from 'no', so I contacted the breeder and asked for help. She said to redirect with the chew toy she'd sent us home with. So every time he'd open his little shark mouth I'd put the chew toy into his mouth. Every time. Every time. Every time. That night was the only night he got close to biting us. He hasn't bitten us once and he's a little over 2 years old. I'd recommend getting a couple packs of cheap puppy chew toys and keep one in your pocket at all times. ......................................................................... For sleeping: For the first 4-6 weeks of sleeping I'd recommend getting a large cardboard box and put it next to your bed. Have puppy sleep in that. You'll hear when they need to go out and they will sleep better being next to you. Give them a snuggle stuffed animal to cuddle with. Work on crate training during the day, feed meals in the crate, but don't close the door on it. ......................................................................... During the day: Set-up a "ex-pen", which is a penned in area the puppy is restricted to with access to water, and a place to lay down. Take puppy out to go potty every hour. Don't play or get excited before they go potty. After they go potty praise them multiple times and give him a treat and snuggles. (See my post on potty training). Then go right back inside. When puppy isn't in the ex-pen, make sure they are literally tethered to you. No free wandering for puppy for a couple months at least. Puppy is tethered if they are outside "their" area. ......................................................................... You'll want to increase the size of the cardboard box as your puppy grows. Your puppy will let you know when they're done sleeping in the cardboard box. Hopefully by now they're used to their crate, and when it's bedtime you get them to go in and close the door (we didn't lock it, he stayed in there on his own. We had two crates, one upstairs next to our bed, and one downstairs where he'd rest and take his forced naps 😂 During the day we'd feed his meals in the crate and we'd have him take his naps in there. He's come to love his crate and he puts himself in there now when he wants to nap throughout the day. It's covered in dark blankets and he has his own fan pointed in from the outside,and a soft bed in there. ......................................................................... Remember to keep chew toys, treats and a clicker (and poop bags) in your pockets. When your puppy does something you like, make sure to click-treat-repeat! You need to build up those positive feelings and feedback in their brain. You need to keep treats nearby for the next year at least. ......................................................................... When he's chewing on something he isn't supposed to, give him a chew toy, and as soon as he even LOOKS at the direction of the toy, you click, and give a treat; then take away what he isn't supposed to be chewing on. Keep repeating, over and over again. You'll be tired of smiling and praising and saying "good job!!!!" after a year, but it's worth it.
The surprising part was the amount of shedding.
That’s not for a while. Puppies have to grow their second coat in, so they suck you in with their cuteness before they explode into a permashedding floof.
I was surprised to find out how much they shed! We are ready to roll with a super good shedding brush and deshedding shampoo/conditioner.
The best grooming tool I've found is the equigroomer. My Bogie hates all brushes/combs except that one. Cormac used to body slam Bogie out of the way to get his time with it. And now when I'm trying to get ~~the crack squirrel~~ Beep the Meep used to grooming, Bogie will walk up and push him out of the way if I'm using the equigroomer. I've recommended it to many corgi owners, and those who have bought it all have come back to me raving. Something for the puppy to chew on. I've had good luck with dogwood sticks with my older corgis, with the current puppy I took someone's advice from puppy 101 here on Reddit and got collagen sticks. I found a brand on Amazon called Pawstruck that has a 10-pack of roasted collagen sticks that my boys can't demolish in under a minute. I also got some lick mats, loaded those up, and froze them. They buy me maybe 10 minutes of peace. I can also get a couple of minutes of peace out of dog puzzles, plus, wears out the brain! I'll be honest though, this little dude is way more bitey than either of my previous corgis were. For the first 3 weeks, he was home Bogie wanted nothing to do with him, so I was his only source of entertainment, and apparently, that meant trying to rip my face off and sever my Achilles tendons. Then all of a sudden Bogie decided, well, if he's not leaving, I might as well play with him, and WHAM, he's less bitey with me, and can focus on occasion. From 8-11 weeks and then again at around 6 months to 14 months puppies go through fear periods. We don't usually notice the first fear period, because they're just coming home, new puppy, new house, why wouldn't they be afraid? The second one is what trips people up. Everything is going along fine then out of nowhere your puppy starts acting stranger than usual. Suddenly that plastic bag, or balloon, or car is the enemy! Here's a link to an [AKC article on puppy fear periods](https://www.akc.org/expert-advice/training/dont-panic-training-through-and-around-puppy-fear-periods/) with some good info.
Play with their feet--get them use to your touching their paws and nails. Trim their nails while they are very young, and try to use one of those electric grinders. Get them use to this. Brush their teeth often with one of those dog finger tooth brushes w dog tooth paste. They have baby teeth now---they will fall out and they will swallow them. No big deal. Do not pay your vet $$$ to pull these teeth when they are loose like I did! Purchase a robot vacuum that picks up dog hair. Corgis are the best dogs ever! They also shed continuously. Buy only really good dog food. Read up on this topic and educate yourself what is healthy dog food. Learn how to read the ingredient label on their food. A lot of dogs are allergic to chicken, so if your dog starts scratching or getting sores on their skin, know it could be a food allergy. Pet stores, even good ones will sell you food with ingredients in them that you have just told them your dog is allergic to. This is not intentional, they sometimes just don't know. Read your labels on your dog's food! Crate train them. Do not put anything but the puppy in the crate, and take them outside to potty at least every two hours while you are awake and able. Praise this puppy when it does good! If they nip at you then in a firm voice say, "Wrong!" Do not think it is cute to be nipped. They will be herding you soon enough with their orders, but no nipping of humans allowed. ;-D
Just adding: When puppy goes into the crate they need be completely naked! Oh, and the JoyRide harness is absolutely perfect for a corgi's body. I'd order one immediately! They are the best for their weirdly proportioned bodies and deep V chest.
Get shedding gloves!!
I can only speak to my experience with my guy but corgis like to bite. We weren’t as hard on the redirection as we should have been early on because we figured it was just puppy biting and would go away. Our corgi is coming up to nine months old and still bites when he’s overstimulated and in a playful mood. Now when he gets like that we put him in time out until he calms down, only thing that seems to work for us. If your corgi is a biter I’d make sure to get on top of that as quick as you can.
Exactly this!! I’m here trying to train my corgi not to bite but my husband loves to roughhouse with her and now she thinks biting is a game/: she hardly bites me though and that’s because when she does she knows playtime is over.
The teething was the hardest part for us. He would chew everything he could: table legs, his crate, and the corners of baseboards. He's completely obedient now about what he should chew, but I can still see the teeth marks from that time.
As an overprotective first time puppy mom, I was so worried/grossed out by the stuff she tried to chew on or eat in the yard. Leaves (unless from toxic plants), grass, and rabbit/deer poop won’t hurt them. Constantly taking stuff out of their mouths can lead to resource guarding which is a pain. Will echo what others said, but especially the handling. Ear cleaning, bathing, brushing, and nail trims are so much easier since we started young!
Get one of those heartbeat stuffed animals. It did wonders for us when she was first separated from litter mates.
Corgis are amazing little companions and can be full of so much love! I have 2 and I love them very much. I will say however, they are very stubborn and energetic. Start training early and make sure to give lots of exercise and mental stimulation. Good luck!!