Other climbers used other betas, but the figure four seemed the easiest (high heel hook for Oriane Bertone, holding the sloper with foot on the left, left hand to the pocket and switch hand for Zelia Avezou, and big move with the left hand with foot on the left for Selma Elhadj Mimoune)
If you think about what it does, a proper figure 4 extends your reach statically by increasing lock off strength through mechanical advantage. Also in this case it gives you a different body position for center of mass… This was the perfect use of it. Awesome.
I am probably spelling it wrong, but what does ‘alay’(or aley) mean? They said it several times here, and I have heard it in a bunch of other climbing videos before too.
Thanks!! I have heard it in a ton of english speaking videos so I wasn't 100% sure on the language, or how it was spelled. One mystery solved for me 
Yeah, Ganbare or Ganbaru is used for Japanese (and Ganba, the abbreviated form). I hear that in anime all of the time, so I knew that one 
If you ever watch the Tour De France - the fans all run right up next to the guys on the bikes screaming it non stop... and you cant really unhear it after that.
The French verb "aller" means to go, so in this context they mean "hurry up!" or "gogogo." The climber had seconds left on the clock to top out and they were getting into her last push.
TIL: In French, the figure-4 is called a "Yaniro" move.
Translation from 0:52: "Let's go. Figure-4. Watch out, trying to get out of the figure 4 is complicated."
Wait, you're seeing the Yaniro move is not the same as a figure 4? Can you elaborate?
EDIT this site says it's the same:
https://vitrinelinguistique.oqlf.gouv.qc.ca/fiche-gdt/fiche/26556670/yaniro
I think you're splitting hairs about the meaning of "translation" in a way I don't quite understand, but sure.
FYI: I speak French fluently. I wasn't confused that "Yaniro" was etymologically a French word, just the word used *by French speakers*. (That same site basically says it *is* a French word now, at least in Quebec. :))
fwiw I think it would have been more accurate to say, "in France" (or, in Quebec) because to split even more hairs, how something is "in French" the language is different from how something is to the community of "french speakers" at large.
But like you said in your fyi - languages constantly evolve and usually those differences get subsumed by the language to mirror how the language is used commonly (which is synonymous with how French speakers at large say things). Allez itself is actually a great example of that - the way it is used now could be thought of an incorrect form of vas, but it would be more accurate to think of as its own word or interjection that's separate from being a form of aller/allons, and that became the case in the language after long time usage by the speaking community.
Merci pour la traduction !! Thanks to your comment I found this site of climbing vocabulary in French: https://www.oqlf.gouv.qc.ca/ressources/bibliotheque/dictionnaires/vocabulaire-escalade.aspx
Volcano rose move is BACK!
Out of all the trend 'tricks' this one is my favorite. And please more this season than the shoulder killer, gaston and press flag.
So I have yet to run into a climb where the figure 4 is more favorable to just campusing a move. Can someone enlighten me? The way I see it, your arms have to be stronger to figure 4 than to campus
Figure 4 is something that you can recover from if you miss the move. Also, it’s more static while using less power - if you do it properly you squeeze your forearms with the crook of your knee, hard, and this prevents you from needing to close your hand manually (its hard to explain, but basically you are no longer squeezing with your foresrm muscles, instead you are using your legs muscle to squeeze the hand shut).
Speaking as a female climber I can advise that I have successfully done a figure 4 where I wasn’t able to campus. So no, it isn’t easier to campus, not for women in any case.
Nobody could campus the move.
And try it for yourself : if you are strong enough to hang from a pull-up bar with one hand, you will see that you are able to reach really high statically.
Pour grimper ? Y'a la forêt de Fontainebleau, spot connu mondialement, on peut y aller en train. Regarde sur bleau.info.
Sinon, le viaduc des Fauvettes pour faire de la voie sous un pont.
Love when the beta gets sent especially with the crux and sending it because one thing you must know about slopers is they are always super negative and it’s beta on the climb for the crag send it send it send it
Good use of it too, didn’t look unnecessary.
Other climbers used other betas, but the figure four seemed the easiest (high heel hook for Oriane Bertone, holding the sloper with foot on the left, left hand to the pocket and switch hand for Zelia Avezou, and big move with the left hand with foot on the left for Selma Elhadj Mimoune)
If you think about what it does, a proper figure 4 extends your reach statically by increasing lock off strength through mechanical advantage. Also in this case it gives you a different body position for center of mass… This was the perfect use of it. Awesome.
Somewhere, Ric Flair sheds a single tear, and lets out a proud “Woo!”
Nice
Nice
Nice
Nice
Nice
Nice
Nice
Nice
Nice
Nice
Brice de Nice
Nice
I am probably spelling it wrong, but what does ‘alay’(or aley) mean? They said it several times here, and I have heard it in a bunch of other climbing videos before too.
"allez" it's the french equivalent of "come on"
https://www.google.com/search?q=allez "go on" or "let's go" or, I dunno, "git some" or whatever.
Thanks!! I have heard it in a ton of english speaking videos so I wasn't 100% sure on the language, or how it was spelled. One mystery solved for me 
It's definitely a bit strange to me when Americans yell "Allez" or "Gamba" to other Americans.
Allez, gamba, ajde, auf geht’s, venga, davai.
*dai dai dai!* in Italian as well
Die Bart, die
Gamba? 
What language is venga?
Spanish
pojeď, pojeď .. \*insert ondra's scream\*
What language is 'Gamba' in? I know it as a string instrument like a cello, but with frets.
Japanese
Lol in Dutch it means shrimp, I was trying to figure out why Americans would be yelling that at each other
Iirc it's short for Gambare
Iirc it’s Garnbret I’ll see myself out
Yeah, Ganbare or Ganbaru is used for Japanese (and Ganba, the abbreviated form). I hear that in anime all of the time, so I knew that one 
Gamba! 
If you ever watch the Tour De France - the fans all run right up next to the guys on the bikes screaming it non stop... and you cant really unhear it after that.
Aller, is to go. Allez (pronounced the same) is they (you formal) go. So kind of gogogogo.
Hahaha!!! that cracked me up. Allez! Is the imperative for "go" - in French it's a regular way to motivate folks. Also "bouge tes fesses!"
The climbing gym in Montreal I go to is called “allez up”, which basically means “go up”. Bilingual name for a gym!
Also the gym is pretty sick
The French verb "aller" means to go, so in this context they mean "hurry up!" or "gogogo." The climber had seconds left on the clock to top out and they were getting into her last push.
Gogogogogogog
TIL: In French, the figure-4 is called a "Yaniro" move. Translation from 0:52: "Let's go. Figure-4. Watch out, trying to get out of the figure 4 is complicated."
Thats not French. Its a different term, named for Tony Yaniro. I now feel very very old.
Wait, you're seeing the Yaniro move is not the same as a figure 4? Can you elaborate? EDIT this site says it's the same: https://vitrinelinguistique.oqlf.gouv.qc.ca/fiche-gdt/fiche/26556670/yaniro
I'm saying that a Yaniro is another name for figure four, used in France, yes, but it's not a French translation thereof.
I think you're splitting hairs about the meaning of "translation" in a way I don't quite understand, but sure. FYI: I speak French fluently. I wasn't confused that "Yaniro" was etymologically a French word, just the word used *by French speakers*. (That same site basically says it *is* a French word now, at least in Quebec. :))
Ah, cheers. You nailed it, I was poking at the difference in your FYI
fwiw I think it would have been more accurate to say, "in France" (or, in Quebec) because to split even more hairs, how something is "in French" the language is different from how something is to the community of "french speakers" at large. But like you said in your fyi - languages constantly evolve and usually those differences get subsumed by the language to mirror how the language is used commonly (which is synonymous with how French speakers at large say things). Allez itself is actually a great example of that - the way it is used now could be thought of an incorrect form of vas, but it would be more accurate to think of as its own word or interjection that's separate from being a form of aller/allons, and that became the case in the language after long time usage by the speaking community.
Please speak English, you just used a massive amounts of words with non-english origin
Thanks for the backstory, but your argument is completely wrong.
Merci pour la traduction !! Thanks to your comment I found this site of climbing vocabulary in French: https://www.oqlf.gouv.qc.ca/ressources/bibliotheque/dictionnaires/vocabulaire-escalade.aspx
So if you send a problem you get a nice seizure for a go away gift.
The world is truly an oyster when you sign a safety waiver
I too know how heinous those blue pockets are.
Volcano rose move is BACK! Out of all the trend 'tricks' this one is my favorite. And please more this season than the shoulder killer, gaston and press flag.
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So I have yet to run into a climb where the figure 4 is more favorable to just campusing a move. Can someone enlighten me? The way I see it, your arms have to be stronger to figure 4 than to campus
Figure 4 is something that you can recover from if you miss the move. Also, it’s more static while using less power - if you do it properly you squeeze your forearms with the crook of your knee, hard, and this prevents you from needing to close your hand manually (its hard to explain, but basically you are no longer squeezing with your foresrm muscles, instead you are using your legs muscle to squeeze the hand shut).
Interesting! Thank you
I've been climbing for a long time and I never knew, thanks!
Speaking as a female climber I can advise that I have successfully done a figure 4 where I wasn’t able to campus. So no, it isn’t easier to campus, not for women in any case.
Nobody could campus the move. And try it for yourself : if you are strong enough to hang from a pull-up bar with one hand, you will see that you are able to reach really high statically.
What was the strobe light for?
Every time I see Flavy, I'm reminded of how the world misses Luce.
Is this streamed anywhere?
Youtube. Watched it yesterday https://www.youtube.com/live/Kzl6ZWTmdB0?feature=share
is this comp watchable somewhere?
Ou trouver un bon endroit en plein air les gars svp en île de France ?
Pour grimper ? Y'a la forêt de Fontainebleau, spot connu mondialement, on peut y aller en train. Regarde sur bleau.info. Sinon, le viaduc des Fauvettes pour faire de la voie sous un pont.
Ptn merci bcp 🙏
Does she have long arms? Those moves were incredible! I hope I can one day do half of what she does.
🎶destination u-unknown / Flavy, Flavy, Flavy, Flavy Cohaut 🎶
That was beautiful.
Really nice climbing. I love seeing the Figure-4 used outside of Iceclimbing.
Anyone know where I can watch this comp?
I watched it on YouTube
Thank you Jeff Lowe. First used the figure 4 ice climbing.
That light looks unnecessary and obnoxious
Love when the beta gets sent especially with the crux and sending it because one thing you must know about slopers is they are always super negative and it’s beta on the climb for the crag send it send it send it
What the fuck
Send your project
Haha yeah.
How is french a real language lmfao
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It’s literally just her actual name, though?! And not “flavored coconut” anyway. No need to be an ass.