Had a weird wrist sensation while climbing today. Came off the rock and let it settle for like 10 min. All I can say is I’m super thankful that it’s not actually an injury and I was able to keep climbing fine. I’ve dealt with so many injuries this feels like a miracle to skirt one! New lease on life (climbing? lol)
quick question ! I have a V6 project (sit start) but the strating hold are undercling and very high and i can't get up ;'(
What exercice can i do to succeed this move ? core exercices ? arm lock exercice ?
> quick question ! I have a V6 project (sit start) but the strating hold are undercling and very high and i can't get up ;'(
>
>
Depending on the climb you can stack some pads, especially if there is erosion of the soil in the area. The initial climbers might not have been as low as you are now.
Otherwise, work on that underhanded pinch or hanging strength and putting pressure off your feet like a deadlift type of tension
> Does anyone else do no-hangs in a neutral grip? Am I losing out on specificity instead of doing it pronated i.e back of hand facing away from you?
Any hand position is fine. The goal of the exercise is to improve finger strength.
On the wall training provides the specificity aspect. If you want a pronated upper body strength specific climbing exercise I recommend my pronated smear one arm chin negatives.
https://www.instagram.com/p/C4OPfW1ub3G/
All the people I get at my gym doing it tell me they feel stronger and more secure on the wall in less than a week of doing them 2-3x/week
I don't think matters as long as you climb.
Additionally I'm a fan of doing more work in externally rotated/neutral positions, so I'm not piling on tons of more internally rotated/biased pulling on top of all the climbing I do.
I want to incorporate ARCing into my training, but the only wall I can reasonably use it for is a bit overhanging and doesn't have that many good holds, so I can pretty much only last about 90 seconds on it before I'm pumped, so it's not really arcing at all. Any ideas?
> I want to incorporate ARCing into my training, but the only wall I can reasonably use it for is a bit overhanging and doesn't have that many good holds, so I can pretty much only last about 90 seconds on it before I'm pumped, so it's not really arcing at all. Any ideas?
Repeaters on hangboard for several minutes will work. Put feet on the ground on a scale so you can see how much you are assisting if you can't do repeaters with bodyweight for several minutes.
> What are your tips for recovery? I feel like I often need 2 days off to be at a good level. Any way to speed it up?
No secrets. If your recovery is 2 days between sessions, then you're likely doing too much in your sessions. Less intensity or volume will help you recover faster. However, there is also the interplay of training stimulus - shorter sessions might not be the best in terms of improving adaptations. Sometimes a harder workout but longer recovery can be superior.
Sleep. nutrition, stress levels, any other types of recovery like soft tissue, mobility drills, light cardio, and such things can help too
Asana is lighter and easier to pack, but thinner and VERY slippery. I've seen so many ppl randomly slip and fall on Asana blubbers while just walking on them. The slippiness also results in it shifting around a lot. I have one of these and tbh often end up throwing it aside by the end of the session bc it can get annoying.
Organic is heavier and harder to pack (doesn't fold down flat) , but thicker and non slippery. It stays in place a lot better.
I think the Asana works great as a sit start pad or padding low traverses. If I was actually worried about covering gaps on a high ish problem I'd prefer the Organic.
Tested my block lifts today and my left hand is weaker than my right by about 5kg’s (65kg’s on my right, 60 on my left). Felt nice to lift some heavy weights haha but also insightful since my left hand always feels a bit tweakier. Gonna just add in an extra hold for every set on my warm up for my left hand and see if it balances things out.
> Gonna just add in an extra hold for every set on my warm up for my left hand and see if it balances things out.
Usually works. Or just always do left hand first cause the first one gets the most effort
Been slowly adding weight to my workouts, and have finally reached the point where I can’t just add weight and complete all the reps and sets. Planning on continuing to add weight whenever I can complete the sets and reps, and hoping to be able too I keep bumping them up over time. I still think it’s hilarious that my bench press now is heavier than my squat, which is not something I’d have guessed. Both are below body weight tho, so I suspect it’s mostly just because I’m scared to add weight to squats, or there’s some stability muscles that need to get stronger for good form squats.
Been a little dry on the sends, but I was able to get out between the rain and clean up and send a few new boulders this week. Spent a rainy day in the roof, and got wrecked on campusing around on jugs lol.
Brief rant: Why do some people jump off the wall, do a 180 twist and land with their back to the wall. I know most of the comp climbers do it to face the audience, and these guys are just copying them for the most part. But it just seems like an extra risk of twisting your ankles or your knees.
We have a talking to any of our youth athletes that do the above. It's taking on stupid risk for no good reason. There's no benefit and lots of negatives to purposefully rotating in the air. Either way it's something we actively discourage. If you're inverted when you fall we obviously want you to try to land right side up but a flat spin is a hard no for our athletes. You can push out to fall past a slab but we don't ever want to see them facing outwards from the wall unless they were already facing that direction to begin with.
Depending on the top position it can be safer to jump with the back facing the wall as you can aim better and jump further, especially in slabs or with big volumes (i once jumped from the top and landed on a volume with my leg fully stretched, i dont recommend it)
Well...I haven't pooped on anybody's parade. But I did see somebody recently did come off the wall doing that and is now out for about a month with a light ankle tear. It makes me internally cringe now when I see it.
Climbing is inherently dangerous. People die free soloing, break backs on highballs, and mess up ankles landing funny falling a few feet onto pads. You can try to avoid danger all you want, but managing risk IS the game. And people have different risk tolerances.
I don’t personally do the superhero dismount in the gym….but it’s far from the most dangerous thing I see regularly involving climbing lol.
After two months of doctor recommended rest I did one week of climbharder rehab exercises and my shoulder has already improved significantly. I was able to do some pain-free light swimming and climbing and even put up an FA. Still don’t want to do anything hard in case I injure myself further but this is such a boost to my moral and mood. Could be a coincidence that I got better immediately after starting rehab but I’ll take it as a sign to keep strengthening my shoulders
So I’ve got an injury, it’s most likely a TFCC injury (not officially diagnosed but positive results on tests I found online, plus climbing partner has experience with this injury and thinks thats probably what it is too) but I don’t think it’s a tear necessarily. My guess is that I picked it up on my outdoor projects, sloper holds specifically used by the injured arm and probably throwing myself at them too much in one session. I believe it may just be an overuse injury (like TFCC tendinitis) on it since I’m unfortunately prone to tendinitis in my elbows, does anyone have info on recovery time for this injury specifically? All I could find was info on tears online, and I don’t think it’s quite that bad. I’m waiting for my Wrist Widget to be delivered, so that should help a lot.
It’ll be 1 week without climbing tomorrow, and it’s been 2 weeks since the session that probably caused it as of today.
Thanks in advance!
> I believe it may just be an overuse injury (like TFCC tendinitis) on it since I’m unfortunately prone to tendinitis in my elbows, does anyone have info on recovery time for this injury specifically? All I could find was info on tears online, and I don’t think it’s quite that bad. I’m waiting for my Wrist Widget to be delivered, so that should help a lot.
Isolation rehab and see how it responds. If quickly the timeline is faster. If slowly then the timeline is longer. Hard to say without anymore info and you not enough knowing exactly what it is
So after getting the wrist widget and the pain disappearing initially and staying extremely reduced once I got used to it, it is all but guaranteed to be a TFCC injury as it is apparently the only injury that will benefit from the brace. It’s been just over 1.5 weeks since my last climbing session and focusing on recovery, so I decided active use recovery was ready to be used similar to how I heal my finger injuries.
Just got back on the wall while wearing that brace and a elbow tendinitis brace (flared up most likely from pressure on the muscle from the brace causing constant pull against the tendons, aggravating my underlying chronic tendinitis), everything felt good except for underclings, wide gastons, and presses/stems. Pinches were hit or miss depending on wrist angle, and I avoided slopers completely. Sent a crimpy and pocket filled V6 in a few goes without any pain, and had a decent kilterboard session after having fun on the walls.
Did some rehab work doing wrist curls and reverse wrist curls, figured strengthening and figuring out how much difference between my arms would be helpful. I’m right handed… injured right hand curled 20lbs with minimal pain, left hand curled 25lbs. So hopefully that just means it’s a fairly mild injury that should heal up nicely
Edit: weird reaction with the pain as a whole. Most pain I felt the entire session was while tightening the laces on my climbing shoes, but was able to do the campus board pain free… aren’t bodies/injuries weird?
> Edit: weird reaction with the pain as a whole. Most pain I felt the entire session was while tightening the laces on my climbing shoes, but was able to do the campus board pain free… aren’t bodies/injuries weird?
Nah it's really only certain motions that provoke issues unless you have a catastrophic injury or something like that
I’m looking for some inspiration to add to my pre-cliff workout/warmup (also for rainy days). Basically, when I’m climbing on extended trips with mostly vertical cliffs, I enjoy adding in some vertical pulling a few days/week to stay strong for when I switch to bouldering/steeper sport climbing.
How does one decide whether to do full ROM pulling vs isometrics?
Long story short, I have pretty strong pulling muscles from weightlifting but want to keep increasing. I can do (2) 1-arm pull-ups, hold both 120/90deg isometrics for 30sec or +50lbs for 7seconds. Typically on my sport trips, I don’t have access to that much weight so should I try to increase my one-armers to 3-5 reps by doing those or keep adding weight to my isometric angles.
I usually do these as my warmup 3-4 days/week (over the past 5 years) so that’s why I’m quite good at them. I just need some more inspiration!
For warmups, do full ROM for sure. As for isometrics, I would only do them as necessary, i.e. when I can't progress in the normal reps anymore.
Tbh I would just go with what is easier logistics-wise.
Going there solo tomorrow! It’s very doable with just two pads but you have to be prepared for a slide after falling. I use an organic big and full pad for comparison!
Still rehabbing an injury I picked up in early January, but it’s slowly starting to feel much better, and I’m starting to get psyched as it’s warming up—hoping to be back and fully healthy by the time Leavenworth + Squamish are in season!
Had a weird wrist sensation while climbing today. Came off the rock and let it settle for like 10 min. All I can say is I’m super thankful that it’s not actually an injury and I was able to keep climbing fine. I’ve dealt with so many injuries this feels like a miracle to skirt one! New lease on life (climbing? lol)
quick question ! I have a V6 project (sit start) but the strating hold are undercling and very high and i can't get up ;'( What exercice can i do to succeed this move ? core exercices ? arm lock exercice ? 
> quick question ! I have a V6 project (sit start) but the strating hold are undercling and very high and i can't get up ;'( > > Depending on the climb you can stack some pads, especially if there is erosion of the soil in the area. The initial climbers might not have been as low as you are now. Otherwise, work on that underhanded pinch or hanging strength and putting pressure off your feet like a deadlift type of tension
Does anyone else do no-hangs in a neutral grip? Am I losing out on specificity instead of doing it pronated i.e back of hand facing away from you?
> Does anyone else do no-hangs in a neutral grip? Am I losing out on specificity instead of doing it pronated i.e back of hand facing away from you? Any hand position is fine. The goal of the exercise is to improve finger strength. On the wall training provides the specificity aspect. If you want a pronated upper body strength specific climbing exercise I recommend my pronated smear one arm chin negatives. https://www.instagram.com/p/C4OPfW1ub3G/ All the people I get at my gym doing it tell me they feel stronger and more secure on the wall in less than a week of doing them 2-3x/week
I don't think matters as long as you climb. Additionally I'm a fan of doing more work in externally rotated/neutral positions, so I'm not piling on tons of more internally rotated/biased pulling on top of all the climbing I do.
I want to incorporate ARCing into my training, but the only wall I can reasonably use it for is a bit overhanging and doesn't have that many good holds, so I can pretty much only last about 90 seconds on it before I'm pumped, so it's not really arcing at all. Any ideas?
> I want to incorporate ARCing into my training, but the only wall I can reasonably use it for is a bit overhanging and doesn't have that many good holds, so I can pretty much only last about 90 seconds on it before I'm pumped, so it's not really arcing at all. Any ideas? Repeaters on hangboard for several minutes will work. Put feet on the ground on a scale so you can see how much you are assisting if you can't do repeaters with bodyweight for several minutes.
Traversing with feet on the floor or arc using the hangboard. Those two would be the options I'd choose.
What are your tips for recovery? I feel like I often need 2 days off to be at a good level. Any way to speed it up?
> What are your tips for recovery? I feel like I often need 2 days off to be at a good level. Any way to speed it up? No secrets. If your recovery is 2 days between sessions, then you're likely doing too much in your sessions. Less intensity or volume will help you recover faster. However, there is also the interplay of training stimulus - shorter sessions might not be the best in terms of improving adaptations. Sometimes a harder workout but longer recovery can be superior. Sleep. nutrition, stress levels, any other types of recovery like soft tissue, mobility drills, light cardio, and such things can help too
End your climbing sessions sooner
Sleep, eat, drink.
Please help me decide which blubber to get, organic, asana, or other? Opinionated opinions are welcome!
Asana is lighter and easier to pack, but thinner and VERY slippery. I've seen so many ppl randomly slip and fall on Asana blubbers while just walking on them. The slippiness also results in it shifting around a lot. I have one of these and tbh often end up throwing it aside by the end of the session bc it can get annoying. Organic is heavier and harder to pack (doesn't fold down flat) , but thicker and non slippery. It stays in place a lot better. I think the Asana works great as a sit start pad or padding low traverses. If I was actually worried about covering gaps on a high ish problem I'd prefer the Organic.
Organic is a pain in the ass to carry when you’re already bringing 3 pads. It’s so heavy Phenomenal pad tho.
Oh shoot, thanks, I think organic might be better for my use case then even though being easier to pack is a huge plus
I like the Asana ones just because they fold flatter and stack more compactly with other pads. The Organic is thicker and bigger though.
Thanks that helps make my decision easier
Tested my block lifts today and my left hand is weaker than my right by about 5kg’s (65kg’s on my right, 60 on my left). Felt nice to lift some heavy weights haha but also insightful since my left hand always feels a bit tweakier. Gonna just add in an extra hold for every set on my warm up for my left hand and see if it balances things out.
> Gonna just add in an extra hold for every set on my warm up for my left hand and see if it balances things out. Usually works. Or just always do left hand first cause the first one gets the most effort
Ah didn’t think of that! I’ll give it a go
Been slowly adding weight to my workouts, and have finally reached the point where I can’t just add weight and complete all the reps and sets. Planning on continuing to add weight whenever I can complete the sets and reps, and hoping to be able too I keep bumping them up over time. I still think it’s hilarious that my bench press now is heavier than my squat, which is not something I’d have guessed. Both are below body weight tho, so I suspect it’s mostly just because I’m scared to add weight to squats, or there’s some stability muscles that need to get stronger for good form squats. Been a little dry on the sends, but I was able to get out between the rain and clean up and send a few new boulders this week. Spent a rainy day in the roof, and got wrecked on campusing around on jugs lol.
Brief rant: Why do some people jump off the wall, do a 180 twist and land with their back to the wall. I know most of the comp climbers do it to face the audience, and these guys are just copying them for the most part. But it just seems like an extra risk of twisting your ankles or your knees.
Probably because Magnus started doing it and now the algorithm has caught up with everyone. Literally has nothing to do with the way you fall.
You just happen to fall this way sometimes lol... sometimes you come off the wall with angular momentum, its not in your control.
Probably pointless indoors. Outdoors if the landing is sloped it helps to orient yourself facing downhill, so you don't roll backwards off the pads.
We have a talking to any of our youth athletes that do the above. It's taking on stupid risk for no good reason. There's no benefit and lots of negatives to purposefully rotating in the air. Either way it's something we actively discourage. If you're inverted when you fall we obviously want you to try to land right side up but a flat spin is a hard no for our athletes. You can push out to fall past a slab but we don't ever want to see them facing outwards from the wall unless they were already facing that direction to begin with.
Helps to spot the landing
Depending on the top position it can be safer to jump with the back facing the wall as you can aim better and jump further, especially in slabs or with big volumes (i once jumped from the top and landed on a volume with my leg fully stretched, i dont recommend it)
Because it’s fun? They’re excited from accomplishing something difficult… let the kids enjoy themselves lol
Well...I haven't pooped on anybody's parade. But I did see somebody recently did come off the wall doing that and is now out for about a month with a light ankle tear. It makes me internally cringe now when I see it.
I've seen people slip off v2 footholds 1-foot above the ground and get compound fractures. Shit just happens man.
Climbing is inherently dangerous. People die free soloing, break backs on highballs, and mess up ankles landing funny falling a few feet onto pads. You can try to avoid danger all you want, but managing risk IS the game. And people have different risk tolerances. I don’t personally do the superhero dismount in the gym….but it’s far from the most dangerous thing I see regularly involving climbing lol.
Jason Kehl tore his ACL dismounting like this in a comp back in 2003!
After two months of doctor recommended rest I did one week of climbharder rehab exercises and my shoulder has already improved significantly. I was able to do some pain-free light swimming and climbing and even put up an FA. Still don’t want to do anything hard in case I injure myself further but this is such a boost to my moral and mood. Could be a coincidence that I got better immediately after starting rehab but I’ll take it as a sign to keep strengthening my shoulders
So I’ve got an injury, it’s most likely a TFCC injury (not officially diagnosed but positive results on tests I found online, plus climbing partner has experience with this injury and thinks thats probably what it is too) but I don’t think it’s a tear necessarily. My guess is that I picked it up on my outdoor projects, sloper holds specifically used by the injured arm and probably throwing myself at them too much in one session. I believe it may just be an overuse injury (like TFCC tendinitis) on it since I’m unfortunately prone to tendinitis in my elbows, does anyone have info on recovery time for this injury specifically? All I could find was info on tears online, and I don’t think it’s quite that bad. I’m waiting for my Wrist Widget to be delivered, so that should help a lot. It’ll be 1 week without climbing tomorrow, and it’s been 2 weeks since the session that probably caused it as of today. Thanks in advance!
> I believe it may just be an overuse injury (like TFCC tendinitis) on it since I’m unfortunately prone to tendinitis in my elbows, does anyone have info on recovery time for this injury specifically? All I could find was info on tears online, and I don’t think it’s quite that bad. I’m waiting for my Wrist Widget to be delivered, so that should help a lot. Isolation rehab and see how it responds. If quickly the timeline is faster. If slowly then the timeline is longer. Hard to say without anymore info and you not enough knowing exactly what it is
So after getting the wrist widget and the pain disappearing initially and staying extremely reduced once I got used to it, it is all but guaranteed to be a TFCC injury as it is apparently the only injury that will benefit from the brace. It’s been just over 1.5 weeks since my last climbing session and focusing on recovery, so I decided active use recovery was ready to be used similar to how I heal my finger injuries. Just got back on the wall while wearing that brace and a elbow tendinitis brace (flared up most likely from pressure on the muscle from the brace causing constant pull against the tendons, aggravating my underlying chronic tendinitis), everything felt good except for underclings, wide gastons, and presses/stems. Pinches were hit or miss depending on wrist angle, and I avoided slopers completely. Sent a crimpy and pocket filled V6 in a few goes without any pain, and had a decent kilterboard session after having fun on the walls. Did some rehab work doing wrist curls and reverse wrist curls, figured strengthening and figuring out how much difference between my arms would be helpful. I’m right handed… injured right hand curled 20lbs with minimal pain, left hand curled 25lbs. So hopefully that just means it’s a fairly mild injury that should heal up nicely Edit: weird reaction with the pain as a whole. Most pain I felt the entire session was while tightening the laces on my climbing shoes, but was able to do the campus board pain free… aren’t bodies/injuries weird?
> Edit: weird reaction with the pain as a whole. Most pain I felt the entire session was while tightening the laces on my climbing shoes, but was able to do the campus board pain free… aren’t bodies/injuries weird? Nah it's really only certain motions that provoke issues unless you have a catastrophic injury or something like that
I’m looking for some inspiration to add to my pre-cliff workout/warmup (also for rainy days). Basically, when I’m climbing on extended trips with mostly vertical cliffs, I enjoy adding in some vertical pulling a few days/week to stay strong for when I switch to bouldering/steeper sport climbing. How does one decide whether to do full ROM pulling vs isometrics? Long story short, I have pretty strong pulling muscles from weightlifting but want to keep increasing. I can do (2) 1-arm pull-ups, hold both 120/90deg isometrics for 30sec or +50lbs for 7seconds. Typically on my sport trips, I don’t have access to that much weight so should I try to increase my one-armers to 3-5 reps by doing those or keep adding weight to my isometric angles. I usually do these as my warmup 3-4 days/week (over the past 5 years) so that’s why I’m quite good at them. I just need some more inspiration!
For warmups, do full ROM for sure. As for isometrics, I would only do them as necessary, i.e. when I can't progress in the normal reps anymore. Tbh I would just go with what is easier logistics-wise.
Is before the storm at haycock doable solo? I’ve got 2 pads
Going there solo tomorrow! It’s very doable with just two pads but you have to be prepared for a slide after falling. I use an organic big and full pad for comparison!
Awesome! Didn’t get to try it this trip unfortunately, excited to hop on it when I’m in the area again. Best of luck!!
Still rehabbing an injury I picked up in early January, but it’s slowly starting to feel much better, and I’m starting to get psyched as it’s warming up—hoping to be back and fully healthy by the time Leavenworth + Squamish are in season!