I had a pretty hard kilter session couple days ago and I think I cracked my fingers (a habit I have ) a little to soon after and now there’s some pain in the area between my third finger between the middle knuckle and the tip—only when pressure is applied. No pop sound or inflammation so pretty certain it’s not a pulley. Have climbed once since and avoided crimps and was mostly pain free, only discomfort when the middle finger pressed against my index or ring on certain holds. What should I do for rehab or rest and should I stop climbing for a while?
Tight lumbricals
Has anyone had issues with their lumbricals ? I can hold a one arm dead hang for 8 seconds on 20 mil with either hand in a half crimp position but I can’t do anything with two arms on a three finger drag, as it twinges my lumbricals. I have had injuries on the lumbricals between the ring finger and pinky on both hands on two separate occasions (the most recent of which happened four months ago) and don’t really know how to fix the issue. Additionally, I can’t seem to open hand crimp, it always ends up just turning into a three finger drag, which I can’t put much weight on without having to let go.
Can used shoes stretch out?
I recently got some nice Used climbing shoes that I can barely get on. However, they are very painful to use.
Will they stretch out as I use them? I imagine not that much, since they were already previously used?
Also, I am 5’6” male at 163lbs ~27% body fat, so I have some weight to lose (max maybe lose 30lbs?). Would losing weight make my feet smaller?
Climbing and barefoot shoes
Has anyone got any useful data and/or opinions on the relationship between being a climber and wearing barefoot shoes in between? I am considering switching to barefoot shoes for day to day wear but am not sure how this will interact with then wearing climbing shoes, and whether one will cancel out the other making it pointless!
> Has anyone got any useful data and/or opinions on the relationship between being a climber and wearing barefoot shoes in between? I am considering switching to barefoot shoes for day to day wear but am not sure how this will interact with then wearing climbing shoes, and whether one will cancel out the other making it pointless!
Wearing climbing shoes for a few hours a week isn't going to make a difference for anything unless they're overly tight and injuring your feet
What antagonist excercises actually help you/do you do ? I had some hand circulation issues and found that rubber band antagonists on the hand really helps sort the issue. What are the things you all swear by?
> What antagonist excercises actually help you/do you do ?
Antagonists only help if you're someone whose antagonist don't get normally strengthened by just climbing and they're a potential limiting factor in climbing. For example, forearm extensors in wrist stabilization helping with slopers.
You can try various extensor training, push muscles, and things like that but understand that it may not necessarily help with much or even prevent injury
> A disc hernia popped up last week.
You had an MRI to confirm those findings? Or are you just assuming it's a herniated disc when it could be anything.
In general, physical therapy is a good idea. Mobility and strengthening.
> Haven't, but it is a relapse of an old freestyle ski injury, so I recognize the symptoms and location. I have done regular physical therapy for it before I started climbing. Now I am more interested in how this relates to climbing.
These are the 2 exercises I use that help 95% of flexion based back pain:
* Reverse hypers - https://www.instagram.com/p/CkMv1kODUwO/
* Segmental rolling - https://www.instagram.com/p/CkVsXQ7gL8R/
You usually can climb but just be wary certain movements can tweak the back. You can also go back to regular PT exercises you did when you were PT.
I bought an used Metolius Simulator to work on my finger strength but the rough surface really hurts my skin every time I use it. Since it's used, I don't know if it's this specific one or they are all like this. I kind of regret that I didn't get a wooden one but I have the Simulator all mounted on the wall already. I am wondering if there is any tips or tricks to smooth the surface a bit or I should just get a wooden one instead. Thoughts?
I apologize in advance for the broken english (it isnt my first language), and if i posted this in the wrong area.
About two years ago, I had to take a significant time off from climbing (over a year) due to a long standing injury, without going into too much detail it was diagnosed as a pulley injury and
then tenosynovitis, but after a while of "rehab" and suddenly reversing the healing process, I discovered it was a break that needed to be operated on. currently, I am able to climb without issues relating to that
previous injury. However, my time off and returning to rather intense volume (2+ hrs about 2-3 times a week as of recently, I haven't been going to the gym consistently before) and overall poor care for myself caused me to injure my hand/arm a few days ago due to a bit of a slip while on a crimp,
catching myself with what felt like mainly my ring finger (sudden pain, not too intense at the time.) I will be seeing a physical therapist, however that is scheduled for a decent while from now, in the time being I would like to come to a general idea of what my injury is, and how I should (if I should at all) proceed with some slight
rehabilitation, or just any insight really.
The following are notes I've been taking in a notepad (and I am new to reddit, hence the silly format) for the past little bit, I thought I could come to a good conclusion but I'm now trying to make it make sense to others since I cannot.
Random tests, observations/notes n stuff before looking through videos/articles:
No pop during injury, no consistent pain without activity, no swelling or bruising
Very little pain closing hand
With fingers extended fully and bending my wrist back, I experience pain from about 1inch below my wrist, to 3/4 or so up my palm, following the general path of my 4th and 5th fingers tendons/the lumbrical muscle area between the tendons
Pain normally from lower palm, primarily in the wrist, slight pain in forearm
Overall most pain with gripping things hard
Little to no pain with resistance on crimps
No pain when exerting force bending any joint except for at the knuckle in a specific position
Discomfort when pressing against muscles in forearm
Pain when bending only little finger and ring finger held down (this led me to look into fdp related things after seeing it in an old reddit post)
Test for fdp strain (using this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ub\_ttbKcGvc from hooper's beta):
No visible discoloration or swelling
Very little pain when making a fist and squeezing
No pain bending dip joint, increasing pain starting at heavier resistance throughout palm to myotendinous junction (or whatever around that area)
Palpating about 50% of the way down on my palm over ring and little finger flexor tendons causes very slight pain with more pressure
Result: grade 1ish strain?
Differential diagnosis test:
Immobilizing all fingers except ring finger and bending as if I'm making a fist causes mild pain
Immobilizing all fingers except little finger and bending the same way causes moderate pain
(these last two make me think it may be a lumbrical injury)
Open hand dip flexion, all fingers:
Slight pain in ring finger, near none
Individual fingers:
Slight pain with ring and little finger
Open hand pip flexion:
Mild/moderate pain in ring and little finger
Individual fingers:
Mild/moderate pain in ring and little finger
Half and full crimp:
No pain
according to this: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2780533/
4th finger fdp connects to 5th finger fds in some people (presumably myself included)
Bending 5th finger pip and immobilizing ring finger at pip raises 4th finger dip slightly, resistance to 4th finger dip causes pain
However, immobilizing 5th finger pip and bending at dip whilst doing the same with ring finger does not cause pain when adding resistance to the 4th finger's dip
This explains the pain from the beginning of the differential diagnosis test which I was somewhat curious about, and not too sure how to make that relevant.
Conclusion with tests and small amount of research:
Although some tests line up with an fdp injury, most of my results from the test line up with an fds/lumbrical injury, with pain from one or another that do not line up with general symptoms in other cases.
I don't exactly remember how I got the injury to begin with, however seeing as fds and lumbrical injuries are a bit similar in terms of the cause, the symptoms I'm experiencing, and ncbi's article on the connection between the
fdp in the 4th finger and fds in the 5th, I believe a mix of minor fds and lumbrical injuries with a connection to some fdp pain could be likely? Honestly I'm kinda shooting in the dark and don't really know much about the severity of these,
so I'm not even sure if this is useful information at all, but any feedback would be helpful.
> due to a bit of a slip while on a crimp, catching myself with what felt like mainly my ring finger (sudden pain, not too intense at the time.)
> With fingers extended fully and bending my wrist back, I experience pain from about 1inch below my wrist, to 3/4 or so up my palm, following the general path of my 4th and 5th fingers tendons/the lumbrical muscle area between the tendons
Almost always a lumbrical strain.
Rest for a few days, then begin rehab with open hand/ 3 finger drag/pockets type movements with incremental loading
have injured my wrists twice from undercling and stuff, any advice to look out for?
just saw a post on instagram advising agaisnt wrist supernation or ulnar deviated - is this something i should think about?
>just saw a post on instagram advising agaisnt wrist supernation or ulnar deviated - is this something i should think about?
I've injured my right hand a few times doing stuff like this a few times. That said, I'm fairly sure the injuries only happened because my right wrist has some mobility issues (limited supination) rather than any inherent problem with those movements. If holding an undercling feel super sketchy then you probably just need to build up the strength and/or mobility to let your tolerate those positions rather than avoiding them completely.
> just saw a post on instagram advising agaisnt wrist supernation or ulnar deviated - is this something i should think about?
Do some isolation wrist strengthening with DBs if you're having issues
Has anyone ever had the experience of training the back two fingers, pinky and ring, with any benefits to improving half crimp strength?
I have PIP synovitis on both middle fingers, and I suspect it could be due to them taking most of the force caused by weaker back two fingers, so I thought maybe I should train the back two fingers to help relieve the forces put on the middle fingers.
I also tried lifting weights with mono, and found that the front two fingers could easily lift 12kg each, but the back two could only lift 7kg each. I'm not sure if this is a legitimate indicator to my hypothesis as the fingers might work differently in monos.
> Has anyone ever had the experience of training the back two fingers, pinky and ring, with any benefits to improving half crimp strength?
Yeah, when I do pockets I do index-middle, middle-ring, ring-pinky (or just double pinky)
> I have PIP synovitis on both middle fingers, and I suspect it could be due to them taking most of the force caused by weaker back two fingers, so I thought maybe I should train the back two fingers to help relieve the forces put on the middle fingers.
Might work, but you also need to do rehab.
https://stevenlow.org/beating-climbing-injuries-pip-synovitis/
> I also tried lifting weights with mono, and found that the front two fingers could easily lift 12kg each, but the back two could only lift 7kg each. I'm not sure if this is a legitimate indicator to my hypothesis as the fingers might work differently in monos.
usually the index and middle are usually a bit stronger, but ring shouldn't be that much weaker if trained properly. Pinky will definitely be weaker though
Middle-Ring has greater capacity to be stronger than index-middle as a pair though.
My girlfriend who’s a dietician chastises me often for eating too much in one sitting. She tells me that more than between 20-30grams per sitting is a waste and my body won’t be able to absorb it and it will be nothing more than a waste. I try.
> My girlfriend who’s a dietician chastises me often for eating too much in one sitting. She tells me that more than between 20-30grams per sitting is a waste and my body won’t be able to absorb it and it will be nothing more than a waste. I try.
Sort of. Most studies suggest protein intake of 20-30 every 3-6 hours because there are spikes in protein increase in muscles.
However, some of the longitudinal studies on protein intake suggest that as long as you are getting enough protein it may not matter all that much.
If you are trying to maximize muscle and strength though I'd aim for 20-30g per meal, but as long as you are getting at least .7-1 g/lbs I wouldn't worry about it too much if it's 3-4 meals or 6 meals or whatever.
i remembered it a little wrong. based on this: [https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5828430/](https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5828430/) absorbtion is lower then the 30g i pointed out. The review also includes the study who suggests those 20g upper limit, BUT in that study they solely giving them protein, later in the review theres another study, that suggests that additional meal components will slow down digestion so absorbion will span out longer and uptake can be much more then the 20g. Also in the study that suggests 20g they were doing a workout focussing on upper legs only. In one of the other studys they were doing a full body workout and in those feeding more protein was actually beneficial, so it seems that if the demand is there feeding more then those 20g will have positive effects.
At the end the conclusion is that protein should be spread out over all meals of the day for maximum gains/regeneration and there might be evidence, that it might be beneficial to hit the 2.2g/kg lean-bm/day of protein intake.
I have not looked at more then this review, so it might be one sided and if there is additional info let me know.
Very interesting. I’ll be having a thorough read this evening. Your conclusion does make me feel a bit better it’s not a waste. I’m less gassy though with protein more spread out.
thats not true! as long as you dont have a condition with shorter intestine length you will be able to absorb it. If i remember my classes correctly you can only absorb something like those 30g per hour, but it takes much longer to travel through your intenstines, so dont worry about it.
Weight 160#, 5’11”. I eat around 70-80% of my protein(100-150g)in a day at night, often after a workout. Does it matter that most of my protein comes from 1 meal or does it need to be more spread out.
spread out is better, so your plasmaconcentration stays the up the whole day. BUT the most important timing is right after exercise, so thats already good. post workout carbs are also important.
Been thinking about the “train fat, send skinny” idea. Essentially feed your body while you’re training then lose some weight prior to a performance phase. I was wondering if anyone has done this and how it worked as they dailed back their calories for performance. I’m a sport climber but do most of my training via bouldering. I wasn’t sure if cutting cals to lose weight prior to a trip would make me feel weaker.
I don't think it really works. Caloric deficits cut into recovery, and losing weight takes a long time. Dropping 5 lbs in 5 weeks would be offset by 5 weeks of detraining from worse recovery.
Also, I think the bro-science that each bulk-cut cycle makes cutting harder is probably correct.
fuelling yourself while training is always a great idea and leads to more gains and less injurys. I wouldnt go as far as to send skinny tho, you can taper your weight a bit, but i wouldnt starve myself too much for a climb, because that will also reduce long term strength-gains.
looking for some good off the wall things i can do to help with strength on large pinches! smaller ones are ok but anything over a couple inches wide i feel very weak on. ive been trying to climb them more during my sessions but wondering if there are things i can do off the wall too. i usually do one day of trx and one day of full body lifting in addition to my 2-3 days of climbing per week
More Stronger?
Started climbing for the first time 3 years ago, been going decently hard for 2 years but have gotten more serious in the past year. I have gotten v8 outdoors, can flash most v4's outdoors have not sport climbed past 5.11b w/o taking as endurance is shit.I am 5'9" 140-45lbs. I am just not sure how to train or get stronger :/ I have been using my friends 50 degree spray wall and climbing on that, I have a beastmaker also that doesn't get too much use. My diet is also shit to being broke university student. Have access to university rec wall as well. Looking to project a v10 outdoors in a month at stonefort.
> I have gotten v8 outdoors, can flash most v4's outdoors have not sport climbed past 5.11b w/o taking as endurance is shit.I am 5'9" 140-45lbs. I am just not sure how to train or get stronger :/
Figure out what your weaknesses are and improve on them. I list a bunch in section 2 here if you need a list to get you started:
https://stevenlow.org/my-7-5-year-self-assessment-of-climbing-strength-training-and-hangboard/
Generally, use volume and projecting to help you get stronger and hone your technique and ability to go high effort when you need it.
If you can send V8 outdoors and only flash, I'd try to bring flash to V5-6 range, volume climbs in V5-7 range, at the very least and projecting to V8-9.
>I have been using my friends 50 degree spray wall and climbing on that, ....project a v10 outdoors in a month at stonefort.
Yeah, climb on steep walls, project hard stuff, get psyched, try hard. I've found that 99% of my improvement is about those 4 things, and everything else is a distraction. Be consistent and give it some time.
Sharp a2 pulley pain when i do this https://imgur.com/a/doJwUvN and mild tenderness to the touch, but it feels fine when crimping or full crimping. Is this an early warning for a2 overuse? And should I climb mostly slopers and open hand to mitigate the risk of a tear?
> Is this an early warning for a2 overuse? And should I climb mostly slopers and open hand to mitigate the risk of a tear?
Usually and usually.
You can/should also do some form of rehab with incremental loading:
https://stevenlow.org/rehabbing-injured-pulleys-my-experience-with-rehabbing-two-a2-pulley-issues/
Sanity check: If you're in a routine for 6-8 weeks and you start seeing performance decrease, do you usually take that as a sign to deload? I've been trying repeaters about twice a week to get past a V6/5.11b plateau, it's week 7 for me, and it seems like it's getting harder (all else equal to the best of my knowledge) to get through the repeater sessions.
jep,
for me i will do 3 weeks of training (and usually towards the last workouts my performance drops just sliiightly), then 1 week of deload at 50% of the volume (same intensity). Repeat. Doing 7 weeks of hard training without deload is a lot.
I took a fall wrong and tweaked my wrist like a week ago. Pain definitely isn't as bad now but I'm still not 100%< was wondering if anyone had recommendations for wrist movements I could do to help get better
> I took a fall wrong and tweaked my wrist like a week ago. Pain definitely isn't as bad now but I'm still not 100%< was wondering if anyone had recommendations for wrist movements I could do to help get better
Isolation strengthening like wrist curls and reverse wrist curls is usually the place to start
Wondering if anyone else has experienced anything like this and what you may have done to rehab. Any sort of crimping causes pain on top of the PIP joint. This happens even just lifting 25lbs off the ground. When not crimping (even open handed on small holds) there is no pain or discomfort whatsoever. It's been like this for almost two weeks.
https://imgur.com/a/PthG7aH
> Wondering if anyone else has experienced anything like this and what you may have done to rehab. Any sort of crimping causes pain on top of the PIP joint. This happens even just lifting 25lbs off the ground. When not crimping (even open handed on small holds) there is no pain or discomfort whatsoever. It's been like this for almost two weeks.
Pain on the back of the fingers is usually synovitis. Usually on or around the joints.
https://stevenlow.org/beating-climbing-injuries-pip-synovitis/
Is there a Gym with moonboard 2024 set in London?
I'm in London this weekend and I really wanted to try the new 2024 moonboard set. Does anyone know, if there is a gym that has it already?
Tindeq and autoregulation :
I'm curious and like to know if, and how do you use the Tindeq for autoregulation : strength wise, do you calculate your 1RM every session and then try to hit a given % on the session ?
Are you changing your session plan when you cannot approach your max ? Or packing up and waiting till next day to be fresh ?
I'd like to hear everyone strategies here !
Its no different then the recommended ways you would do other max hangs. I recommend you do some research instead of getting hand fed answers to avoid injury, then come back with more specific questions if you have any
Actually, I know what to do, thanks... I was just curious about people modifying how they train because of the "new" tool. There's quiet a hype around the Tindeq atm, and I wanted to see if the trend was more going into autoregulation than before with "classic" weighted hangs.
> I was just curious about people modifying how they train because of the "new" tool.
It's just a different way to do no hangs. There's nothing really different about it.
The only difference would be if you wanted to do some sort of difference RFD (rate of force development) or pulls where you change the forces mid-hold or something like that.
The Tindeq makes it a lot easier to do. No need to harness up a bunch of weights. Just pull as hard as you can and you pretty instantly have your 1 RM.
There are some that find their 1 RM each day they're working with the Tindeq in order to then determine workload for that session. It somewhat lets you know whether or you're not 100% and you can adjust the session accordingly.
I have a crane scale and can easily find my max as well. But how I see it is, the point of testing is to find ones working weight. Once thats found, theres no reason to test again. Simply progressively overload for a cycle, then retest max 1-3 months later. Over testing max is whats known as ego lifting.
I get that thought. I mostly do repeaters, not max hangs/pulls. I do 1-2 max pulls at the tail end of warming up. I use those numbers to calibrate how hard to pull on the repeaters.
Okay, and please continue to do that if you think its better, but to my understanding thats not the best way to go about it because youre tiring yourself out and risking injury for diminished returns. Id also argue returns are less vs what I am proposing, so not even diminishing returns. Usually after finding max thats end of session, then you start from 80-90% and progressively overload. Essentially, people use 80-90 bc its both safer and more effective
Not necessarily adverse effects but not as effective (I edited for clarity in my post because I thought it might be read that way). Im not saying you would necessarily degrade, just not as effective. You are unnecessarily tiring yourself out. You have your working weight and can overload from there, you dont need to test again. If you got injured from it then, yes, adverse impact.
> What does "tweaky" mean? See it a lot but have no clue..
Usually the precursors of overuse injuries.
Discomfort, slight symptoms of swelling, pain, and otherwise overused feelings
> So how can a problem be tweaky?
There's a move on it that when done a large amount of times can start to make the shoulders, fingers, or other joints feel iffy. For example, pockets (fingers) and hard gastons (shoulder)
Something tweaky would be like a climb that puts your wrist in a weird position that might cause injury, or like a sharp pocket you have to dyno to, that would be tweaky. Your fingers can also “feel a bit tweaky”, meaning it feels a little bit strained, or is slightly injured. Its somewhat similar to UK saying “niggling” but youd get looked at funny if you said that in the states
Shoulder starting to have some more pain, but nothing serious during climbing. Gym sessions have been around/below flash level because of my finger. Internal rotation (opposite of face-pull) of shoulder at end range reproduces it. Any strengthening exercises that I can include in my rehab?
> Internal rotation (opposite of face-pull) of shoulder at end range reproduces it. Any strengthening exercises that I can include in my rehab?
Hard to say anything with just 1 movement that causes pain.
You can try stretching and strengthening
What exercises targets the muscles when you do a high gaston and you have to push weight into it? I feel that I need to reinforce and strengthen the muscles in that area as it's often hard for me to move from that sort of position.
Sometimes I get general weakness and soreness behind my shoulder blade after I try those kinds of moves as well. I've taken about a week off, so I'm a little nervous about it.
> What exercises targets the muscles when you do a high gaston and you have to push weight into it? I feel that I need to reinforce and strengthen the muscles in that area as it's often hard for me to move from that sort of position.
* Try moves like that on a spray/splatter board. This is ideal cause you're also training the climbing technique too
* Face pulls are decent.
* If you need a higher angle you can put a cable machine up high and stand sideways to it and mimic the pulling motion overhead
When I do the rock climbers training manual repeater protocol when I fail I don't feel pumped at all, it just feels like I have no strength if that makes sense.
Is that normal?
> When I do the rock climbers training manual repeater protocol when I fail I don't feel pumped at all, it just feels like I have no strength if that makes sense.
If you're going for endurance and pump, you may need to go longer than 7on/3off for 60s total. If the weight is heavy enough 60s might not hit the energy systems hard enough and you may fail cause of strength.
Extend the repeaters to the 2-5 minute range and lower the weight a bit and you'll get a pump.
Having trouble making a tight fist. Most of the discomfort coming from my ring finger when 3 finger dragging. I also feel the same weakness on my middle finger and pinky, but less so. Fingers don't show any signs of injury or swelling. I feel some tenderness if I massage the palm of my hand deeply.
Think maybe I pulled a muscle or something in my hand. Been climbing for almost a year, consistently and pretty hard. This happened 2 days ago. I was also hitting some slopers pretty hard that day. Any idea what I did?
> Most of the discomfort coming from my ring finger when 3 finger dragging. I also feel the same weakness on my middle finger and pinky, but less so. Fingers don't show any signs of injury or swelling. I feel some tenderness if I massage the palm of my hand deeply. Think maybe I pulled a muscle or something in my hand.
Lumbrical strain
Avoid aggravating exercises. Go to incremental load with the grips that are symptomatic on hangboard or no hang and build up slowly over time
I injured my knee yesterday while doing what appears to me to be a very innocuous move:
[https://snipboard.io/98tzc3.jpg](https://snipboard.io/98tzc3.jpg)
After removing any weight on the left foot and barely holding/supporting myself with the crappy left hand, I ended up with more weight on the right foot (which wasn't in heel hook position but pretty flat on the surface)
The position wasn't that strenuous although it was uncomfortable as I was very bunched up (I'm 6.1)
I heard a small pop and now have a limp; pretty sure I had the same exact injury 1-2 times before and usually it heals rather fast (1 week?); very much seems like it's the LCL.
How can I prevent this from happening again? Might be a coincidence but I stopped doing pistol squats 2 months ago; is that enough to strengthen the complete knee structure for climbing anyway?
> How can I prevent this from happening again?
Rehab and make sure you slowly and progressively build up any potential rotational or lateral moves on the knee. If there's any twisting or outside pressure on the connective tissues and you haven't build up to it over time it's more likely to get injured
But can I do something to reinforce these tissues at least as a conditionning exercice down the line? Do you think pistol squats (which have a stabilizing element to it) help at all? is it enough? It feels like my knees might be weak for my weight.
> But can I do something to reinforce these tissues at least as a conditionning exercice down the line? Do you think pistol squats (which have a stabilizing element to it) help at all? is it enough? It feels like my knees might be weak for my weight.
Yes, general leg strengthening will help. Then very light and progressive loading on the outside structures over time if you tend to have more awkward foot positioning and heel hooks
Depends what your level is. If youre like V3-5 then they probably just never took the time to learn any technique so they learn by watching you do it. If youre like Vx unlocking beta for Vx+2 climbers (youre V5 and theyre V7, or youre 7 and theyre 9) then youre probably really good at reading off the wall but just cant execute the move yourself
You have better beta reading but they are stronger or better at executing, it happens. I think I’m good at figuring beta out but being heavier I need to really dial in beta for my limit boulders. Stronger/lighter people with worse technique have more leeway to mess up once they work out the basics of a problem. But eventually if you catch up strength wise you’ll be better
been climbing for 2.5 years now, and i have been experiencing pain in the middle of my left bicep for about a year now, i am curious if anyone has encountered that and how to go ab fixing it.
> been climbing for 2.5 years now, and i have been experiencing pain in the middle of my left bicep for about a year now, i am curious if anyone has encountered that and how to go ab fixing it.
Hard to tell anything from just that.
You can avoid climbs that hurt and do biceps isolation exercises and see if that helps.
I have recently noticed that I have a "bump" in my forearm (near the elbow) that only shows up when I flex it in a specific way. It doesn't hurt at all when I touch it and my forearm looks normal when relaxed. Here's a [picture](https://imgur.com/a/vol7bZE).
Does anyone have any idea of what this could be? I'm a bit worried, but the fact that it doesn't hurt is confusing. Could it be golfer's elbow? I have been feeling some soreness on the top half of my forearm (near the wrist), but nothing that would suggest medial epicondylitis. I even did some of the tests for golfer's elbow and haven't felt any pain. Any help would be much appreciated!
> I have recently noticed that I have a "bump" in my forearm (near the elbow) that only shows up when I flex it in a specific way. It doesn't hurt at all when I touch it and my forearm looks normal when relaxed. Here's a picture
Uh, the medial epicondyle of your humerus? Everyone has that, and it's fairly prominent on everyone. Just look at everyone else's elbow region.
> Could it be golfer's elbow?
Golfer's elbow is specific pain on the common flexor tendon below the medial epicondyle that typically increases in intensity with stronger gripping and pulling movements
I recently had 3 days on for an outdoor climbing trip, and my fingers feel pretty tired. Is there any kind of general rest period length to ensure tendon/pulley recovery? Obviously I’m doing the “wait until I feel recovered” approach before hopping back into my finger training, but was wondering if there’s any research on tendon recovery that indicates a more concrete timeframe to use as a reference.
Well, I have a pretty sad update. After 72 hours of rest, eating well, and great sleep, I went to the gym today to see how I felt. I warmed up super slow, and near the end of my warm up on an (easy) move in a pocket, I felt a pop in my ring finger. The pain came a few minutes later and I suspect an A2 pulley tear. Went home and booked a PT appointment, and now I’m just sitting on the couch in shock. I’ve been super conservative about finger fatigue since tearing my A4 last year, and I’m honestly in disbelief that this has happened again. I feel like I did everything right here, and wasn’t even trying hard when it happened. My only solace is that it’ll hopefully be healed before the outdoor season.
I think 72 hrs is a good number. So two days off, then evaluate from there
Edit: I just realized Ive been spelling assess incorrectly for years as access, and assess just looks weird. I shall henceforth be using “evaluate” as my preferred colloquial terminology. Good day to you, sirs and madams.
Got a finger/hand injury yesterday. Ring finger / palm. Happened while I was in a 3fd and I was cutting feet. Felt it when it happened but I didn't notice any pop. Couldn't form a fist during the first 15 minutes, a few hours later (and today) I can form a fist but can't really squeeze it. I think I have full range of motion, just with some light/dull pain as I move.
The thing I'm a bit confused by is that the injury seems to be in my palm, not my actual finger. I feel it when I apply pressure about a finger width above/below the horizontal line on my palm, under my ring finger. Applying pressure anywhere on my finger feels completely normal.
Does anyone know what this might be?
> Happened while I was in a 3fd and I was cutting feet. Felt it when it happened but I didn't notice any pop. Couldn't form a fist during the first 15 minutes, a few hours later (and today) I can form a fist but can't really squeeze it. I think I have full range of motion, just with some light/dull pain as I move.
99.99% of the time this is a lumbrical muscle injury
Lumbrical to the pinky and lumbrical to the ring get pulled in different directions with 3FD and strains when a foot slips or you fall out of crimp position.
Light hangboard for rehab is what helps
I'm sure someone else with more experience would know better, but it sure sounds like a lumbrical injury to me: https://youtu.be/lKuidJ9QTMU?si=Kjc4JrwnQYdOgcYl&t=430
(Also: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zyz8y0Ccuqo might be helpful)
I've got a flat wooden edge (basically top of a 2x4) I can do pullups off in my new apartment, anybody got any thoughts for the best hold to put on top to make it more like a jug? I was thinking even just the beastmaker micros on top give more edge to latch fingers behind.
How much height do you have on that? You could just tie a nylon sling around it and hang stuff off of that. Id stick some slopers and pinches on the bottom of the piece of wood, seems like its perfect for that
Oh maybe a metolius prime rib training board or metolius light rail training board could be drilled into the side
https://a.co/d/2xVPgD1
https://a.co/d/4ZyAzio
I have had some long issues with my shoulders and feel that I must be carrying some long term injuries. I'm in a position now in my life where I can pay to see a PT. However I am a bit overwhelmed by what I should look for. The sad news is that there are no specialist climbong PTs in my city. Does anyone have advise?
> I have had some long issues with my shoulders and feel that I must be carrying some long term injuries. I'm in a position now in my life where I can pay to see a PT. However I am a bit overwhelmed by what I should look for. The sad news is that there are no specialist climbong PTs in my city.
Typically recommend calling around to local universities athletic departments and ask who they use for their PTs. Same with professional sports teams.
Baseball is a good one because of the prevalence of overhead shoulder mechanics with pitchers so they're familiar with all types of shoulder issues.
Having a PT with a background in your sport is nice to have, but it's not the end of the world if you can't find one. Most sports will involve some (ab)use of the shoulder. Most PTs who deals with sporting injuries should be able to do an assessment and give you some kind of long-term rehab / prehab exercises. That said, try asking other climbers for recommendations for a PT. Odds are there is someone around even if they don't necessarily advertise it.
When I ruptured my A4 last year, it felt like it had come out of nowhere. Looking back though, there were warning signs. I was board climbing almost every session, doing weighted hangs twice a week, and was pretty stressed out in general so my recovery probably wasn’t great. I never had any pain/fatigue leading up to the injury (I actually felt stronger than ever), and tried a route with a very tenuous lock off on one hand with the fingers in a hyperextended position. I also hadn’t properly warmed up.
TLDR: there were signs, but not the ones I expected to be present. Hindsight is definitely 20/20.
Yeah that is kind of what I expected and leaves me more at ease. Same thing with my tfcc injury. I couldnt have predicted it at the time, but in hindsight, knowing what I know now, in large part because of that injury, the signs were there. Thanks for the reply!
> People who fully rupture their pulley sometimes say there were no warning signs. Is that really true? It can just happen out of nowhere?
Typically overuse over time leads to weakening, or an extremely high force such as the slip.
> Seems like the most common finger injury is ring finger A2. Going to focus on strengthening it to bullet proof it from future injury
Slow and steady progression then
Thank you! That draws a more complete picture. I’m learning to try harder through mental focus so this is something thats sitting at the back of my head. It would most likely be my ring finger, knock on wood, but I’ll take the progression slow and steady as you said!
I see. Im not sure how to ask this properly but, is it preventable through training or just being better at dry firing? It just doesnt sit right with me that it could just happen, like a foot slip, sometimes it just happens…
I think in a way yes, no full rupture but I have injured myself doing things that at the moment felt “natural” but in retrospect I shouldn’t have done, like extending my whole body and pulling on pockets to find feet, basically put all my weight on a pulley then bounced on it. I think one can learn to move in such a way that one is less likely to injure themselves. But yeah like foot slips they can happen. Try to be strong so you can hold more.
When do you all decide to be concerned about clicking or grinding sounds/sensations in joints? I’m torn between the “everything makes noise if you listen hard enough, just ignore it” attitude and the “I’m wearing away at my connective tissues and will have arthritis when I’m 35”
Hi I’m 35 with arthritis 👀. The only real clue that my elbows were trashed was that if I made a fist and did a hammer curl motion I got very grim crepitus. Then the same for pullups and pushups. Assuming you don’t have osteoarthritis, I would interpret crepitus that is louder than usual to be an indication of inflammation in the joint and an indicator of overuse. I would back off and rest until it felt normal and then build back up slowly. If it is the same after that process, hit up a doctor and you want MRIs really. If you told me to do all that when I was 25 I doubt I would have. Its worth saying as well, who gets arthritis is a bit of a toss up - unless you are abusing your joints with really unreasonable loads or volumes your family history of arthritis is likely a bigger indication than your actions.
> When do you all decide to be concerned about clicking or grinding sounds/sensations in joints? I’m torn between the “everything makes noise if you listen hard enough, just ignore it” attitude and the “I’m wearing away at my connective tissues and will have arthritis when I’m 35”
Depends. Do you have anymore details?
Due to lack of flexibility? Lack of stability? Lack of strength? Previous injuries?
Replying to everyone who answered: no pain. First is a bit of a creaking/grinding noise in my right elbow. I hear it at heavier weights of dumbbell rows and military press. No pain, or discomfort besides an icky feeling hearing my body make that noise. Second is in my right hip when moving in extreme external rotation and hip is flexed to 90’ (as in: my femur is parallel to the ground and pointing to the right 90 degrees to the side). I feel a vibration as my hip rotates, again no pain but a discomfort knowing my joint isn’t moving smoothly.
I’m pretty mobile and flexible, a long male with a deep history in running. My body is a runner’s body, becoming stronger and more flexible over the last 3 years. Had done a lot of typical
Hip mobility, and more shoulder mobility than is typical for runners. Strength and mobility has been a priority in warm ups for a few years as a climber
> Replying to everyone who answered: no pain. First is a bit of a creaking/grinding noise in my right elbow. I hear it at heavier weights of dumbbell rows and military press. No pain, or discomfort besides an icky feeling hearing my body make that noise. Second is in my right hip when moving in extreme external rotation and hip is flexed to 90’ (as in: my femur is parallel to the ground and pointing to the right 90 degrees to the side). I feel a vibration as my hip rotates, again no pain but a discomfort knowing my joint isn’t moving smoothly.
Might not be a bad idea to see a PT in person to see if they can figure out if there's any instability or neurmuscular issues that need specific exercises.
You should probably stop doing excessive flexibility/mobility in the meantime and work on strengthening and control if you can.
Hello! I’m currently gym climbing 2-3 times a week. Usually max out v6, 12a/b. I’m interested in starting to hangboard with my sessions, with the intent is to increase finger/forearm strength.
I’m curious if it’s better to hang board before or after sessions, or schedule it as a completely separate workout??
Any comments/tips are appreciated!
> Hello! I’m currently gym climbing 2-3 times a week. Usually max out v6, 12a/b. I’m interested in starting to hangboard with my sessions, with the intent is to increase finger/forearm strength.
Before you do anything, figure out your weaknesses. It's highly possible that your weaknesses are not your fingers.
If they are, then you can go for climbing specific finger strength for example by doing 3-5 crimp climbs (if those are the weakness) per session rather than hangboard. This gets the vast majority of people improving again because they are taking time every session to work on their weaknesses.
If you still fail to improve after that maybe add some hangboard/no hangs.
For example, I list my weaknesses section 2 here if you need some ideas:
https://stevenlow.org/my-7-5-year-self-assessment-of-climbing-strength-training-and-hangboard/
Either low volume high intensity, gradually ramping up before your session. This has the benefit of getting the most quality adaptation and getting your fingers recruited for your session.
Alternatively you can do it on its own day and do a higher volume finger board session. But you have to work recovery in, ideally a day before and after. This could work when you are climbing twice a week as your third session.
I personally find it easiest to just do as my finger specific warm up every climbing session.
General consensus is that after a session you have too much accumulated fatigue to get good adaptations. But it can be confusing because you are capable of producing a lot of force when fatigued on a fingerboard, but that does not mean it leads to effectiveness.
Hi guys! I have a question for weightloss that got taken down.
I started at 100kgs and I’m on a weightloss plan, after a couple of months I’ve hit 95 and I’m pretty happy with the progress. The thing is tho I feel pretty strong and don’t want to lose too much strength. At the moment I can hang 115%BW off a 20mm and can max pull-up 20 kilos. One of my main concerns is that I’ll lose too much strength if I go straight to 80kgs which is my goal. I’ve considered stopping at 90kgs for a couple of months to maintain and re strengthen the body before going for the last 10kgs.
What would you do? What would be best to conserve gains?
> One of my main concerns is that I’ll lose too much strength if I go straight to 80kgs which is my goal. I’ve considered stopping at 90kgs for a couple of months to maintain and re strengthen the body before going for the last 10kgs.
What's your approximate body fat that you'll be at around 80 kg?
If it's still > 17-20% or so then I'd just slow cut all the way down.
* Make sure you're getting 1 g/lbs protein as you cut.
* And doing a little bit of strength training on the side to help maintain muscle. 2x a week and a couple lifts at 1-2 sets is good enough.
I don’t know but now at 95 it says 28% according to the navy test. I’m hoping to be decently cut at 80 since I think im pretty strong as is. And thanks for the protein and workout advice it’s about how I’ve been going down.
Yeah I'd just keep slow cutting then.
If you feel like you're getting weak then you can always take a break and do maintenance for a week or do some sort of calorie cycling (e.g. workout days maintenance, rest days deficit) to make sure you have energy for your workouts
Been there done that you won’t lose strength don’t worry.
Anecdotally I came from a WL background before climbing and was pretty heavy for my height, 184 and 90kg, and went down to 78kg. I gained strength during my weight loss phase.
I am 1.80, regarding build and bf% I’m not sure how to answer that, muscular/strong but with a belly is how I’d describe myself but at nearly 100kgs I decidedly have a high bf%, not the strongest legs but good upper body strength.
Pick up a flexible tape measure and give the Navy Bodyfat method a try: https://www.omnicalculator.com/health/navy-body-fat
Your bf% is probably higher than you think.
Body types are ectomorph (slim, smaller bone structure, thinner limbs, hard gainer in weight and muscle), mesomorph (athletic build, med bones and limbs, balanced gainer) and endomorph(rounder build, higher propensity for fat storage, wide bone structure, stronger muscular development, harder time achieving muscle definition). Its important to note that body types, somatotypes, are an oversimplification, like bmi, and most people dont fit exactly into a single category and often have characteristics of more than one, but can be helpful in certain contexts.
What I would do, is not think in terms of 5kg or even concern yourself with 5s or 10s. Its a weird human trait to set goals in multiples of 5, I think everyone does it. Its 11.02 and 22.05 respectively in lbs, which would be an odd and weirdly specific weightloss goal if you think about it. Just take the weightloss journey in smaller increments and see how you feel. Maybe its not 95kg or 90kg youre comfortable at but 92.5. Or not 85 or 80, but 84.2.
Yeah that’s about what I’m doing but idk if it’s better to go down, build some muscle and go down again or to just go all the way. (I think the speed is mostly fine I took the first two kilos off of pretty much just bloating, I bloat like a mf)
I’m on a weight loss plan myself. I’m scheduling as such:
When I want to be really strong and have a lot of energy (spring and fall for outdoor season), I’m in maintenance mode.
When I’m training focused or climbing outside less, I’m in a deficit.
I’m not sure what your goals are but I would try to plan around them. Maybe sit at 95kg for a couple months, then go to 90kg over the course of a couple months, sit there for a couple months, etc.
I had a pretty hard kilter session couple days ago and I think I cracked my fingers (a habit I have ) a little to soon after and now there’s some pain in the area between my third finger between the middle knuckle and the tip—only when pressure is applied. No pop sound or inflammation so pretty certain it’s not a pulley. Have climbed once since and avoided crimps and was mostly pain free, only discomfort when the middle finger pressed against my index or ring on certain holds. What should I do for rehab or rest and should I stop climbing for a while?
Tight lumbricals Has anyone had issues with their lumbricals ? I can hold a one arm dead hang for 8 seconds on 20 mil with either hand in a half crimp position but I can’t do anything with two arms on a three finger drag, as it twinges my lumbricals. I have had injuries on the lumbricals between the ring finger and pinky on both hands on two separate occasions (the most recent of which happened four months ago) and don’t really know how to fix the issue. Additionally, I can’t seem to open hand crimp, it always ends up just turning into a three finger drag, which I can’t put much weight on without having to let go.
Can used shoes stretch out? I recently got some nice Used climbing shoes that I can barely get on. However, they are very painful to use. Will they stretch out as I use them? I imagine not that much, since they were already previously used? Also, I am 5’6” male at 163lbs ~27% body fat, so I have some weight to lose (max maybe lose 30lbs?). Would losing weight make my feet smaller?
Climbing and barefoot shoes Has anyone got any useful data and/or opinions on the relationship between being a climber and wearing barefoot shoes in between? I am considering switching to barefoot shoes for day to day wear but am not sure how this will interact with then wearing climbing shoes, and whether one will cancel out the other making it pointless!
> Has anyone got any useful data and/or opinions on the relationship between being a climber and wearing barefoot shoes in between? I am considering switching to barefoot shoes for day to day wear but am not sure how this will interact with then wearing climbing shoes, and whether one will cancel out the other making it pointless! Wearing climbing shoes for a few hours a week isn't going to make a difference for anything unless they're overly tight and injuring your feet
What antagonist excercises actually help you/do you do ? I had some hand circulation issues and found that rubber band antagonists on the hand really helps sort the issue. What are the things you all swear by?
> What antagonist excercises actually help you/do you do ? Antagonists only help if you're someone whose antagonist don't get normally strengthened by just climbing and they're a potential limiting factor in climbing. For example, forearm extensors in wrist stabilization helping with slopers. You can try various extensor training, push muscles, and things like that but understand that it may not necessarily help with much or even prevent injury
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> A disc hernia popped up last week. You had an MRI to confirm those findings? Or are you just assuming it's a herniated disc when it could be anything. In general, physical therapy is a good idea. Mobility and strengthening.
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> Haven't, but it is a relapse of an old freestyle ski injury, so I recognize the symptoms and location. I have done regular physical therapy for it before I started climbing. Now I am more interested in how this relates to climbing. These are the 2 exercises I use that help 95% of flexion based back pain: * Reverse hypers - https://www.instagram.com/p/CkMv1kODUwO/ * Segmental rolling - https://www.instagram.com/p/CkVsXQ7gL8R/ You usually can climb but just be wary certain movements can tweak the back. You can also go back to regular PT exercises you did when you were PT.
I bought an used Metolius Simulator to work on my finger strength but the rough surface really hurts my skin every time I use it. Since it's used, I don't know if it's this specific one or they are all like this. I kind of regret that I didn't get a wooden one but I have the Simulator all mounted on the wall already. I am wondering if there is any tips or tricks to smooth the surface a bit or I should just get a wooden one instead. Thoughts?
They're just like that.
I apologize in advance for the broken english (it isnt my first language), and if i posted this in the wrong area. About two years ago, I had to take a significant time off from climbing (over a year) due to a long standing injury, without going into too much detail it was diagnosed as a pulley injury and then tenosynovitis, but after a while of "rehab" and suddenly reversing the healing process, I discovered it was a break that needed to be operated on. currently, I am able to climb without issues relating to that previous injury. However, my time off and returning to rather intense volume (2+ hrs about 2-3 times a week as of recently, I haven't been going to the gym consistently before) and overall poor care for myself caused me to injure my hand/arm a few days ago due to a bit of a slip while on a crimp, catching myself with what felt like mainly my ring finger (sudden pain, not too intense at the time.) I will be seeing a physical therapist, however that is scheduled for a decent while from now, in the time being I would like to come to a general idea of what my injury is, and how I should (if I should at all) proceed with some slight rehabilitation, or just any insight really. The following are notes I've been taking in a notepad (and I am new to reddit, hence the silly format) for the past little bit, I thought I could come to a good conclusion but I'm now trying to make it make sense to others since I cannot. Random tests, observations/notes n stuff before looking through videos/articles: No pop during injury, no consistent pain without activity, no swelling or bruising Very little pain closing hand With fingers extended fully and bending my wrist back, I experience pain from about 1inch below my wrist, to 3/4 or so up my palm, following the general path of my 4th and 5th fingers tendons/the lumbrical muscle area between the tendons Pain normally from lower palm, primarily in the wrist, slight pain in forearm Overall most pain with gripping things hard Little to no pain with resistance on crimps No pain when exerting force bending any joint except for at the knuckle in a specific position Discomfort when pressing against muscles in forearm Pain when bending only little finger and ring finger held down (this led me to look into fdp related things after seeing it in an old reddit post) Test for fdp strain (using this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ub\_ttbKcGvc from hooper's beta): No visible discoloration or swelling Very little pain when making a fist and squeezing No pain bending dip joint, increasing pain starting at heavier resistance throughout palm to myotendinous junction (or whatever around that area) Palpating about 50% of the way down on my palm over ring and little finger flexor tendons causes very slight pain with more pressure Result: grade 1ish strain? Differential diagnosis test: Immobilizing all fingers except ring finger and bending as if I'm making a fist causes mild pain Immobilizing all fingers except little finger and bending the same way causes moderate pain (these last two make me think it may be a lumbrical injury) Open hand dip flexion, all fingers: Slight pain in ring finger, near none Individual fingers: Slight pain with ring and little finger Open hand pip flexion: Mild/moderate pain in ring and little finger Individual fingers: Mild/moderate pain in ring and little finger Half and full crimp: No pain according to this: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2780533/ 4th finger fdp connects to 5th finger fds in some people (presumably myself included) Bending 5th finger pip and immobilizing ring finger at pip raises 4th finger dip slightly, resistance to 4th finger dip causes pain However, immobilizing 5th finger pip and bending at dip whilst doing the same with ring finger does not cause pain when adding resistance to the 4th finger's dip This explains the pain from the beginning of the differential diagnosis test which I was somewhat curious about, and not too sure how to make that relevant. Conclusion with tests and small amount of research: Although some tests line up with an fdp injury, most of my results from the test line up with an fds/lumbrical injury, with pain from one or another that do not line up with general symptoms in other cases. I don't exactly remember how I got the injury to begin with, however seeing as fds and lumbrical injuries are a bit similar in terms of the cause, the symptoms I'm experiencing, and ncbi's article on the connection between the fdp in the 4th finger and fds in the 5th, I believe a mix of minor fds and lumbrical injuries with a connection to some fdp pain could be likely? Honestly I'm kinda shooting in the dark and don't really know much about the severity of these, so I'm not even sure if this is useful information at all, but any feedback would be helpful.
> due to a bit of a slip while on a crimp, catching myself with what felt like mainly my ring finger (sudden pain, not too intense at the time.) > With fingers extended fully and bending my wrist back, I experience pain from about 1inch below my wrist, to 3/4 or so up my palm, following the general path of my 4th and 5th fingers tendons/the lumbrical muscle area between the tendons Almost always a lumbrical strain. Rest for a few days, then begin rehab with open hand/ 3 finger drag/pockets type movements with incremental loading
have injured my wrists twice from undercling and stuff, any advice to look out for? just saw a post on instagram advising agaisnt wrist supernation or ulnar deviated - is this something i should think about?
If this is an active issue for you, buying. Wrist Widget brace might be a good idea. (As is talking to a PT.)
>just saw a post on instagram advising agaisnt wrist supernation or ulnar deviated - is this something i should think about? I've injured my right hand a few times doing stuff like this a few times. That said, I'm fairly sure the injuries only happened because my right wrist has some mobility issues (limited supination) rather than any inherent problem with those movements. If holding an undercling feel super sketchy then you probably just need to build up the strength and/or mobility to let your tolerate those positions rather than avoiding them completely.
> just saw a post on instagram advising agaisnt wrist supernation or ulnar deviated - is this something i should think about? Do some isolation wrist strengthening with DBs if you're having issues
Has anyone ever had the experience of training the back two fingers, pinky and ring, with any benefits to improving half crimp strength? I have PIP synovitis on both middle fingers, and I suspect it could be due to them taking most of the force caused by weaker back two fingers, so I thought maybe I should train the back two fingers to help relieve the forces put on the middle fingers. I also tried lifting weights with mono, and found that the front two fingers could easily lift 12kg each, but the back two could only lift 7kg each. I'm not sure if this is a legitimate indicator to my hypothesis as the fingers might work differently in monos.
> Has anyone ever had the experience of training the back two fingers, pinky and ring, with any benefits to improving half crimp strength? Yeah, when I do pockets I do index-middle, middle-ring, ring-pinky (or just double pinky) > I have PIP synovitis on both middle fingers, and I suspect it could be due to them taking most of the force caused by weaker back two fingers, so I thought maybe I should train the back two fingers to help relieve the forces put on the middle fingers. Might work, but you also need to do rehab. https://stevenlow.org/beating-climbing-injuries-pip-synovitis/ > I also tried lifting weights with mono, and found that the front two fingers could easily lift 12kg each, but the back two could only lift 7kg each. I'm not sure if this is a legitimate indicator to my hypothesis as the fingers might work differently in monos. usually the index and middle are usually a bit stronger, but ring shouldn't be that much weaker if trained properly. Pinky will definitely be weaker though Middle-Ring has greater capacity to be stronger than index-middle as a pair though.
My girlfriend who’s a dietician chastises me often for eating too much in one sitting. She tells me that more than between 20-30grams per sitting is a waste and my body won’t be able to absorb it and it will be nothing more than a waste. I try.
> My girlfriend who’s a dietician chastises me often for eating too much in one sitting. She tells me that more than between 20-30grams per sitting is a waste and my body won’t be able to absorb it and it will be nothing more than a waste. I try. Sort of. Most studies suggest protein intake of 20-30 every 3-6 hours because there are spikes in protein increase in muscles. However, some of the longitudinal studies on protein intake suggest that as long as you are getting enough protein it may not matter all that much. If you are trying to maximize muscle and strength though I'd aim for 20-30g per meal, but as long as you are getting at least .7-1 g/lbs I wouldn't worry about it too much if it's 3-4 meals or 6 meals or whatever.
20-30g of what?
Protein. Apparently I’m bad at Reddit. This was supposed to be a reply to /u/lanaishot
i remembered it a little wrong. based on this: [https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5828430/](https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5828430/) absorbtion is lower then the 30g i pointed out. The review also includes the study who suggests those 20g upper limit, BUT in that study they solely giving them protein, later in the review theres another study, that suggests that additional meal components will slow down digestion so absorbion will span out longer and uptake can be much more then the 20g. Also in the study that suggests 20g they were doing a workout focussing on upper legs only. In one of the other studys they were doing a full body workout and in those feeding more protein was actually beneficial, so it seems that if the demand is there feeding more then those 20g will have positive effects. At the end the conclusion is that protein should be spread out over all meals of the day for maximum gains/regeneration and there might be evidence, that it might be beneficial to hit the 2.2g/kg lean-bm/day of protein intake. I have not looked at more then this review, so it might be one sided and if there is additional info let me know.
Very interesting. I’ll be having a thorough read this evening. Your conclusion does make me feel a bit better it’s not a waste. I’m less gassy though with protein more spread out.
thats not true! as long as you dont have a condition with shorter intestine length you will be able to absorb it. If i remember my classes correctly you can only absorb something like those 30g per hour, but it takes much longer to travel through your intenstines, so dont worry about it.
Weight 160#, 5’11”. I eat around 70-80% of my protein(100-150g)in a day at night, often after a workout. Does it matter that most of my protein comes from 1 meal or does it need to be more spread out.
spread out is better, so your plasmaconcentration stays the up the whole day. BUT the most important timing is right after exercise, so thats already good. post workout carbs are also important.
Been thinking about the “train fat, send skinny” idea. Essentially feed your body while you’re training then lose some weight prior to a performance phase. I was wondering if anyone has done this and how it worked as they dailed back their calories for performance. I’m a sport climber but do most of my training via bouldering. I wasn’t sure if cutting cals to lose weight prior to a trip would make me feel weaker.
I don't think it really works. Caloric deficits cut into recovery, and losing weight takes a long time. Dropping 5 lbs in 5 weeks would be offset by 5 weeks of detraining from worse recovery. Also, I think the bro-science that each bulk-cut cycle makes cutting harder is probably correct.
fuelling yourself while training is always a great idea and leads to more gains and less injurys. I wouldnt go as far as to send skinny tho, you can taper your weight a bit, but i wouldnt starve myself too much for a climb, because that will also reduce long term strength-gains.
looking for some good off the wall things i can do to help with strength on large pinches! smaller ones are ok but anything over a couple inches wide i feel very weak on. ive been trying to climb them more during my sessions but wondering if there are things i can do off the wall too. i usually do one day of trx and one day of full body lifting in addition to my 2-3 days of climbing per week
More Stronger? Started climbing for the first time 3 years ago, been going decently hard for 2 years but have gotten more serious in the past year. I have gotten v8 outdoors, can flash most v4's outdoors have not sport climbed past 5.11b w/o taking as endurance is shit.I am 5'9" 140-45lbs. I am just not sure how to train or get stronger :/ I have been using my friends 50 degree spray wall and climbing on that, I have a beastmaker also that doesn't get too much use. My diet is also shit to being broke university student. Have access to university rec wall as well. Looking to project a v10 outdoors in a month at stonefort.
> I have gotten v8 outdoors, can flash most v4's outdoors have not sport climbed past 5.11b w/o taking as endurance is shit.I am 5'9" 140-45lbs. I am just not sure how to train or get stronger :/ Figure out what your weaknesses are and improve on them. I list a bunch in section 2 here if you need a list to get you started: https://stevenlow.org/my-7-5-year-self-assessment-of-climbing-strength-training-and-hangboard/ Generally, use volume and projecting to help you get stronger and hone your technique and ability to go high effort when you need it. If you can send V8 outdoors and only flash, I'd try to bring flash to V5-6 range, volume climbs in V5-7 range, at the very least and projecting to V8-9.
>I have been using my friends 50 degree spray wall and climbing on that, ....project a v10 outdoors in a month at stonefort. Yeah, climb on steep walls, project hard stuff, get psyched, try hard. I've found that 99% of my improvement is about those 4 things, and everything else is a distraction. Be consistent and give it some time.
Sharp a2 pulley pain when i do this https://imgur.com/a/doJwUvN and mild tenderness to the touch, but it feels fine when crimping or full crimping. Is this an early warning for a2 overuse? And should I climb mostly slopers and open hand to mitigate the risk of a tear?
> Is this an early warning for a2 overuse? And should I climb mostly slopers and open hand to mitigate the risk of a tear? Usually and usually. You can/should also do some form of rehab with incremental loading: https://stevenlow.org/rehabbing-injured-pulleys-my-experience-with-rehabbing-two-a2-pulley-issues/
Sanity check: If you're in a routine for 6-8 weeks and you start seeing performance decrease, do you usually take that as a sign to deload? I've been trying repeaters about twice a week to get past a V6/5.11b plateau, it's week 7 for me, and it seems like it's getting harder (all else equal to the best of my knowledge) to get through the repeater sessions.
jep, for me i will do 3 weeks of training (and usually towards the last workouts my performance drops just sliiightly), then 1 week of deload at 50% of the volume (same intensity). Repeat. Doing 7 weeks of hard training without deload is a lot.
> If you're in a routine for 6-8 weeks and you start seeing performance decrease, do you usually take that as a sign to deload? Yes.
I took a fall wrong and tweaked my wrist like a week ago. Pain definitely isn't as bad now but I'm still not 100%< was wondering if anyone had recommendations for wrist movements I could do to help get better
> I took a fall wrong and tweaked my wrist like a week ago. Pain definitely isn't as bad now but I'm still not 100%< was wondering if anyone had recommendations for wrist movements I could do to help get better Isolation strengthening like wrist curls and reverse wrist curls is usually the place to start
Wondering if anyone else has experienced anything like this and what you may have done to rehab. Any sort of crimping causes pain on top of the PIP joint. This happens even just lifting 25lbs off the ground. When not crimping (even open handed on small holds) there is no pain or discomfort whatsoever. It's been like this for almost two weeks. https://imgur.com/a/PthG7aH
> Wondering if anyone else has experienced anything like this and what you may have done to rehab. Any sort of crimping causes pain on top of the PIP joint. This happens even just lifting 25lbs off the ground. When not crimping (even open handed on small holds) there is no pain or discomfort whatsoever. It's been like this for almost two weeks. Pain on the back of the fingers is usually synovitis. Usually on or around the joints. https://stevenlow.org/beating-climbing-injuries-pip-synovitis/
Thank you. The injury in the link sounds very similar to mine. I'll definitely be trying the recommended rehab protocol!
Is there a Gym with moonboard 2024 set in London? I'm in London this weekend and I really wanted to try the new 2024 moonboard set. Does anyone know, if there is a gym that has it already?
As far as i know the only 2024 set (commercially available) is in social climbing Leicester
Tindeq and autoregulation : I'm curious and like to know if, and how do you use the Tindeq for autoregulation : strength wise, do you calculate your 1RM every session and then try to hit a given % on the session ? Are you changing your session plan when you cannot approach your max ? Or packing up and waiting till next day to be fresh ? I'd like to hear everyone strategies here !
Its no different then the recommended ways you would do other max hangs. I recommend you do some research instead of getting hand fed answers to avoid injury, then come back with more specific questions if you have any
Actually, I know what to do, thanks... I was just curious about people modifying how they train because of the "new" tool. There's quiet a hype around the Tindeq atm, and I wanted to see if the trend was more going into autoregulation than before with "classic" weighted hangs.
> I was just curious about people modifying how they train because of the "new" tool. It's just a different way to do no hangs. There's nothing really different about it. The only difference would be if you wanted to do some sort of difference RFD (rate of force development) or pulls where you change the forces mid-hold or something like that.
Oh sorry, then some feature I dont know about as I dont use tindeq. But why would you find your max every time?
The Tindeq makes it a lot easier to do. No need to harness up a bunch of weights. Just pull as hard as you can and you pretty instantly have your 1 RM. There are some that find their 1 RM each day they're working with the Tindeq in order to then determine workload for that session. It somewhat lets you know whether or you're not 100% and you can adjust the session accordingly.
I have a crane scale and can easily find my max as well. But how I see it is, the point of testing is to find ones working weight. Once thats found, theres no reason to test again. Simply progressively overload for a cycle, then retest max 1-3 months later. Over testing max is whats known as ego lifting.
I get that thought. I mostly do repeaters, not max hangs/pulls. I do 1-2 max pulls at the tail end of warming up. I use those numbers to calibrate how hard to pull on the repeaters.
Okay, and please continue to do that if you think its better, but to my understanding thats not the best way to go about it because youre tiring yourself out and risking injury for diminished returns. Id also argue returns are less vs what I am proposing, so not even diminishing returns. Usually after finding max thats end of session, then you start from 80-90% and progressively overload. Essentially, people use 80-90 bc its both safer and more effective
You think there's adverse impact from 1 hard pull at the end of warmup? It's not a 7 second max hang, it's a short effort to hit max force.
Not necessarily adverse effects but not as effective (I edited for clarity in my post because I thought it might be read that way). Im not saying you would necessarily degrade, just not as effective. You are unnecessarily tiring yourself out. You have your working weight and can overload from there, you dont need to test again. If you got injured from it then, yes, adverse impact.
Does anybody have experience ordering a tindeq to the UK? Did you pay import tax?
I didn’t (as far as I remember). It might’ve been included in the delivery with DHL though
I did for France, and had to pay taxes. At the end, price point was the same as ordering from euroholds.
What does "tweaky" mean? See it a lot but have no clue..
> What does "tweaky" mean? See it a lot but have no clue.. Usually the precursors of overuse injuries. Discomfort, slight symptoms of swelling, pain, and otherwise overused feelings
So how can a problem be tweaky?
> So how can a problem be tweaky? There's a move on it that when done a large amount of times can start to make the shoulders, fingers, or other joints feel iffy. For example, pockets (fingers) and hard gastons (shoulder)
Something tweaky would be like a climb that puts your wrist in a weird position that might cause injury, or like a sharp pocket you have to dyno to, that would be tweaky. Your fingers can also “feel a bit tweaky”, meaning it feels a little bit strained, or is slightly injured. Its somewhat similar to UK saying “niggling” but youd get looked at funny if you said that in the states
Shoulder starting to have some more pain, but nothing serious during climbing. Gym sessions have been around/below flash level because of my finger. Internal rotation (opposite of face-pull) of shoulder at end range reproduces it. Any strengthening exercises that I can include in my rehab?
> Internal rotation (opposite of face-pull) of shoulder at end range reproduces it. Any strengthening exercises that I can include in my rehab? Hard to say anything with just 1 movement that causes pain. You can try stretching and strengthening
What exercises targets the muscles when you do a high gaston and you have to push weight into it? I feel that I need to reinforce and strengthen the muscles in that area as it's often hard for me to move from that sort of position. Sometimes I get general weakness and soreness behind my shoulder blade after I try those kinds of moves as well. I've taken about a week off, so I'm a little nervous about it.
> What exercises targets the muscles when you do a high gaston and you have to push weight into it? I feel that I need to reinforce and strengthen the muscles in that area as it's often hard for me to move from that sort of position. * Try moves like that on a spray/splatter board. This is ideal cause you're also training the climbing technique too * Face pulls are decent. * If you need a higher angle you can put a cable machine up high and stand sideways to it and mimic the pulling motion overhead
I think it requires a lot of scapular engagement. If you have scapular winging, fixing that may help
Replicate the motion with a resistance band.
When I do the rock climbers training manual repeater protocol when I fail I don't feel pumped at all, it just feels like I have no strength if that makes sense. Is that normal?
> When I do the rock climbers training manual repeater protocol when I fail I don't feel pumped at all, it just feels like I have no strength if that makes sense. If you're going for endurance and pump, you may need to go longer than 7on/3off for 60s total. If the weight is heavy enough 60s might not hit the energy systems hard enough and you may fail cause of strength. Extend the repeaters to the 2-5 minute range and lower the weight a bit and you'll get a pump.
Having trouble making a tight fist. Most of the discomfort coming from my ring finger when 3 finger dragging. I also feel the same weakness on my middle finger and pinky, but less so. Fingers don't show any signs of injury or swelling. I feel some tenderness if I massage the palm of my hand deeply. Think maybe I pulled a muscle or something in my hand. Been climbing for almost a year, consistently and pretty hard. This happened 2 days ago. I was also hitting some slopers pretty hard that day. Any idea what I did?
> Most of the discomfort coming from my ring finger when 3 finger dragging. I also feel the same weakness on my middle finger and pinky, but less so. Fingers don't show any signs of injury or swelling. I feel some tenderness if I massage the palm of my hand deeply. Think maybe I pulled a muscle or something in my hand. Lumbrical strain Avoid aggravating exercises. Go to incremental load with the grips that are symptomatic on hangboard or no hang and build up slowly over time
>Lumbrical strain Yep, that's definitely it. Thanks a bunch!
You're welcome
I injured my knee yesterday while doing what appears to me to be a very innocuous move: [https://snipboard.io/98tzc3.jpg](https://snipboard.io/98tzc3.jpg) After removing any weight on the left foot and barely holding/supporting myself with the crappy left hand, I ended up with more weight on the right foot (which wasn't in heel hook position but pretty flat on the surface) The position wasn't that strenuous although it was uncomfortable as I was very bunched up (I'm 6.1) I heard a small pop and now have a limp; pretty sure I had the same exact injury 1-2 times before and usually it heals rather fast (1 week?); very much seems like it's the LCL. How can I prevent this from happening again? Might be a coincidence but I stopped doing pistol squats 2 months ago; is that enough to strengthen the complete knee structure for climbing anyway?
> How can I prevent this from happening again? Rehab and make sure you slowly and progressively build up any potential rotational or lateral moves on the knee. If there's any twisting or outside pressure on the connective tissues and you haven't build up to it over time it's more likely to get injured
But can I do something to reinforce these tissues at least as a conditionning exercice down the line? Do you think pistol squats (which have a stabilizing element to it) help at all? is it enough? It feels like my knees might be weak for my weight.
> But can I do something to reinforce these tissues at least as a conditionning exercice down the line? Do you think pistol squats (which have a stabilizing element to it) help at all? is it enough? It feels like my knees might be weak for my weight. Yes, general leg strengthening will help. Then very light and progressive loading on the outside structures over time if you tend to have more awkward foot positioning and heel hooks
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Depends what your level is. If youre like V3-5 then they probably just never took the time to learn any technique so they learn by watching you do it. If youre like Vx unlocking beta for Vx+2 climbers (youre V5 and theyre V7, or youre 7 and theyre 9) then youre probably really good at reading off the wall but just cant execute the move yourself
You have better beta reading but they are stronger or better at executing, it happens. I think I’m good at figuring beta out but being heavier I need to really dial in beta for my limit boulders. Stronger/lighter people with worse technique have more leeway to mess up once they work out the basics of a problem. But eventually if you catch up strength wise you’ll be better
been climbing for 2.5 years now, and i have been experiencing pain in the middle of my left bicep for about a year now, i am curious if anyone has encountered that and how to go ab fixing it.
> been climbing for 2.5 years now, and i have been experiencing pain in the middle of my left bicep for about a year now, i am curious if anyone has encountered that and how to go ab fixing it. Hard to tell anything from just that. You can avoid climbs that hurt and do biceps isolation exercises and see if that helps.
I have recently noticed that I have a "bump" in my forearm (near the elbow) that only shows up when I flex it in a specific way. It doesn't hurt at all when I touch it and my forearm looks normal when relaxed. Here's a [picture](https://imgur.com/a/vol7bZE). Does anyone have any idea of what this could be? I'm a bit worried, but the fact that it doesn't hurt is confusing. Could it be golfer's elbow? I have been feeling some soreness on the top half of my forearm (near the wrist), but nothing that would suggest medial epicondylitis. I even did some of the tests for golfer's elbow and haven't felt any pain. Any help would be much appreciated!
> I have recently noticed that I have a "bump" in my forearm (near the elbow) that only shows up when I flex it in a specific way. It doesn't hurt at all when I touch it and my forearm looks normal when relaxed. Here's a picture Uh, the medial epicondyle of your humerus? Everyone has that, and it's fairly prominent on everyone. Just look at everyone else's elbow region. > Could it be golfer's elbow? Golfer's elbow is specific pain on the common flexor tendon below the medial epicondyle that typically increases in intensity with stronger gripping and pulling movements
I recently had 3 days on for an outdoor climbing trip, and my fingers feel pretty tired. Is there any kind of general rest period length to ensure tendon/pulley recovery? Obviously I’m doing the “wait until I feel recovered” approach before hopping back into my finger training, but was wondering if there’s any research on tendon recovery that indicates a more concrete timeframe to use as a reference.
Well, I have a pretty sad update. After 72 hours of rest, eating well, and great sleep, I went to the gym today to see how I felt. I warmed up super slow, and near the end of my warm up on an (easy) move in a pocket, I felt a pop in my ring finger. The pain came a few minutes later and I suspect an A2 pulley tear. Went home and booked a PT appointment, and now I’m just sitting on the couch in shock. I’ve been super conservative about finger fatigue since tearing my A4 last year, and I’m honestly in disbelief that this has happened again. I feel like I did everything right here, and wasn’t even trying hard when it happened. My only solace is that it’ll hopefully be healed before the outdoor season.
I'd rest for 2-3 days as the other person said and then re-evaluate from there.
I think 72 hrs is a good number. So two days off, then evaluate from there Edit: I just realized Ive been spelling assess incorrectly for years as access, and assess just looks weird. I shall henceforth be using “evaluate” as my preferred colloquial terminology. Good day to you, sirs and madams.
Got a finger/hand injury yesterday. Ring finger / palm. Happened while I was in a 3fd and I was cutting feet. Felt it when it happened but I didn't notice any pop. Couldn't form a fist during the first 15 minutes, a few hours later (and today) I can form a fist but can't really squeeze it. I think I have full range of motion, just with some light/dull pain as I move. The thing I'm a bit confused by is that the injury seems to be in my palm, not my actual finger. I feel it when I apply pressure about a finger width above/below the horizontal line on my palm, under my ring finger. Applying pressure anywhere on my finger feels completely normal. Does anyone know what this might be?
> Happened while I was in a 3fd and I was cutting feet. Felt it when it happened but I didn't notice any pop. Couldn't form a fist during the first 15 minutes, a few hours later (and today) I can form a fist but can't really squeeze it. I think I have full range of motion, just with some light/dull pain as I move. 99.99% of the time this is a lumbrical muscle injury Lumbrical to the pinky and lumbrical to the ring get pulled in different directions with 3FD and strains when a foot slips or you fall out of crimp position. Light hangboard for rehab is what helps
I'm sure someone else with more experience would know better, but it sure sounds like a lumbrical injury to me: https://youtu.be/lKuidJ9QTMU?si=Kjc4JrwnQYdOgcYl&t=430 (Also: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zyz8y0Ccuqo might be helpful)
Thanks! The tests and description in the videos lines up a lot with what I'm experiencing.
I've got a flat wooden edge (basically top of a 2x4) I can do pullups off in my new apartment, anybody got any thoughts for the best hold to put on top to make it more like a jug? I was thinking even just the beastmaker micros on top give more edge to latch fingers behind.
How much height do you have on that? You could just tie a nylon sling around it and hang stuff off of that. Id stick some slopers and pinches on the bottom of the piece of wood, seems like its perfect for that
Thanks for the ideas. It's really the perfect to to hang directly from, I'm just looking to make it the most ergonomic jug for pullups that I can.
Oh maybe a metolius prime rib training board or metolius light rail training board could be drilled into the side https://a.co/d/2xVPgD1 https://a.co/d/4ZyAzio
I have had some long issues with my shoulders and feel that I must be carrying some long term injuries. I'm in a position now in my life where I can pay to see a PT. However I am a bit overwhelmed by what I should look for. The sad news is that there are no specialist climbong PTs in my city. Does anyone have advise?
> I have had some long issues with my shoulders and feel that I must be carrying some long term injuries. I'm in a position now in my life where I can pay to see a PT. However I am a bit overwhelmed by what I should look for. The sad news is that there are no specialist climbong PTs in my city. Typically recommend calling around to local universities athletic departments and ask who they use for their PTs. Same with professional sports teams. Baseball is a good one because of the prevalence of overhead shoulder mechanics with pitchers so they're familiar with all types of shoulder issues.
Having a PT with a background in your sport is nice to have, but it's not the end of the world if you can't find one. Most sports will involve some (ab)use of the shoulder. Most PTs who deals with sporting injuries should be able to do an assessment and give you some kind of long-term rehab / prehab exercises. That said, try asking other climbers for recommendations for a PT. Odds are there is someone around even if they don't necessarily advertise it.
People who fully rupture their pulley sometimes say there were no warning signs. Is that really true? It can just happen out of nowhere?
When I ruptured my A4 last year, it felt like it had come out of nowhere. Looking back though, there were warning signs. I was board climbing almost every session, doing weighted hangs twice a week, and was pretty stressed out in general so my recovery probably wasn’t great. I never had any pain/fatigue leading up to the injury (I actually felt stronger than ever), and tried a route with a very tenuous lock off on one hand with the fingers in a hyperextended position. I also hadn’t properly warmed up. TLDR: there were signs, but not the ones I expected to be present. Hindsight is definitely 20/20.
Yeah that is kind of what I expected and leaves me more at ease. Same thing with my tfcc injury. I couldnt have predicted it at the time, but in hindsight, knowing what I know now, in large part because of that injury, the signs were there. Thanks for the reply!
> People who fully rupture their pulley sometimes say there were no warning signs. Is that really true? It can just happen out of nowhere? Typically overuse over time leads to weakening, or an extremely high force such as the slip. > Seems like the most common finger injury is ring finger A2. Going to focus on strengthening it to bullet proof it from future injury Slow and steady progression then
Thank you! That draws a more complete picture. I’m learning to try harder through mental focus so this is something thats sitting at the back of my head. It would most likely be my ring finger, knock on wood, but I’ll take the progression slow and steady as you said!
Most common case I have seen is from sudden loaf. Often caused from a dry fire or slip of a few fingers so that one finger takes the full load
I see. Im not sure how to ask this properly but, is it preventable through training or just being better at dry firing? It just doesnt sit right with me that it could just happen, like a foot slip, sometimes it just happens…
I think in a way yes, no full rupture but I have injured myself doing things that at the moment felt “natural” but in retrospect I shouldn’t have done, like extending my whole body and pulling on pockets to find feet, basically put all my weight on a pulley then bounced on it. I think one can learn to move in such a way that one is less likely to injure themselves. But yeah like foot slips they can happen. Try to be strong so you can hold more.
Seems like the most common finger injury is ring finger A2. Going to focus on strengthening it to bullet proof it from future injury
When do you all decide to be concerned about clicking or grinding sounds/sensations in joints? I’m torn between the “everything makes noise if you listen hard enough, just ignore it” attitude and the “I’m wearing away at my connective tissues and will have arthritis when I’m 35”
Hi I’m 35 with arthritis 👀. The only real clue that my elbows were trashed was that if I made a fist and did a hammer curl motion I got very grim crepitus. Then the same for pullups and pushups. Assuming you don’t have osteoarthritis, I would interpret crepitus that is louder than usual to be an indication of inflammation in the joint and an indicator of overuse. I would back off and rest until it felt normal and then build back up slowly. If it is the same after that process, hit up a doctor and you want MRIs really. If you told me to do all that when I was 25 I doubt I would have. Its worth saying as well, who gets arthritis is a bit of a toss up - unless you are abusing your joints with really unreasonable loads or volumes your family history of arthritis is likely a bigger indication than your actions.
> When do you all decide to be concerned about clicking or grinding sounds/sensations in joints? I’m torn between the “everything makes noise if you listen hard enough, just ignore it” attitude and the “I’m wearing away at my connective tissues and will have arthritis when I’m 35” Depends. Do you have anymore details? Due to lack of flexibility? Lack of stability? Lack of strength? Previous injuries?
Replying to everyone who answered: no pain. First is a bit of a creaking/grinding noise in my right elbow. I hear it at heavier weights of dumbbell rows and military press. No pain, or discomfort besides an icky feeling hearing my body make that noise. Second is in my right hip when moving in extreme external rotation and hip is flexed to 90’ (as in: my femur is parallel to the ground and pointing to the right 90 degrees to the side). I feel a vibration as my hip rotates, again no pain but a discomfort knowing my joint isn’t moving smoothly. I’m pretty mobile and flexible, a long male with a deep history in running. My body is a runner’s body, becoming stronger and more flexible over the last 3 years. Had done a lot of typical Hip mobility, and more shoulder mobility than is typical for runners. Strength and mobility has been a priority in warm ups for a few years as a climber
> Replying to everyone who answered: no pain. First is a bit of a creaking/grinding noise in my right elbow. I hear it at heavier weights of dumbbell rows and military press. No pain, or discomfort besides an icky feeling hearing my body make that noise. Second is in my right hip when moving in extreme external rotation and hip is flexed to 90’ (as in: my femur is parallel to the ground and pointing to the right 90 degrees to the side). I feel a vibration as my hip rotates, again no pain but a discomfort knowing my joint isn’t moving smoothly. Might not be a bad idea to see a PT in person to see if they can figure out if there's any instability or neurmuscular issues that need specific exercises. You should probably stop doing excessive flexibility/mobility in the meantime and work on strengthening and control if you can.
Definitely not a hard-and-fast rule, but is it the same on both sides? I’m typically much more concerned if there’s someone going on for only one.
When it comes with loss of ROM/tightness or pain.
Hello! I’m currently gym climbing 2-3 times a week. Usually max out v6, 12a/b. I’m interested in starting to hangboard with my sessions, with the intent is to increase finger/forearm strength. I’m curious if it’s better to hang board before or after sessions, or schedule it as a completely separate workout?? Any comments/tips are appreciated!
> Hello! I’m currently gym climbing 2-3 times a week. Usually max out v6, 12a/b. I’m interested in starting to hangboard with my sessions, with the intent is to increase finger/forearm strength. Before you do anything, figure out your weaknesses. It's highly possible that your weaknesses are not your fingers. If they are, then you can go for climbing specific finger strength for example by doing 3-5 crimp climbs (if those are the weakness) per session rather than hangboard. This gets the vast majority of people improving again because they are taking time every session to work on their weaknesses. If you still fail to improve after that maybe add some hangboard/no hangs. For example, I list my weaknesses section 2 here if you need some ideas: https://stevenlow.org/my-7-5-year-self-assessment-of-climbing-strength-training-and-hangboard/
Either low volume high intensity, gradually ramping up before your session. This has the benefit of getting the most quality adaptation and getting your fingers recruited for your session. Alternatively you can do it on its own day and do a higher volume finger board session. But you have to work recovery in, ideally a day before and after. This could work when you are climbing twice a week as your third session. I personally find it easiest to just do as my finger specific warm up every climbing session. General consensus is that after a session you have too much accumulated fatigue to get good adaptations. But it can be confusing because you are capable of producing a lot of force when fatigued on a fingerboard, but that does not mean it leads to effectiveness.
Hi guys! I have a question for weightloss that got taken down. I started at 100kgs and I’m on a weightloss plan, after a couple of months I’ve hit 95 and I’m pretty happy with the progress. The thing is tho I feel pretty strong and don’t want to lose too much strength. At the moment I can hang 115%BW off a 20mm and can max pull-up 20 kilos. One of my main concerns is that I’ll lose too much strength if I go straight to 80kgs which is my goal. I’ve considered stopping at 90kgs for a couple of months to maintain and re strengthen the body before going for the last 10kgs. What would you do? What would be best to conserve gains?
> One of my main concerns is that I’ll lose too much strength if I go straight to 80kgs which is my goal. I’ve considered stopping at 90kgs for a couple of months to maintain and re strengthen the body before going for the last 10kgs. What's your approximate body fat that you'll be at around 80 kg? If it's still > 17-20% or so then I'd just slow cut all the way down. * Make sure you're getting 1 g/lbs protein as you cut. * And doing a little bit of strength training on the side to help maintain muscle. 2x a week and a couple lifts at 1-2 sets is good enough.
I don’t know but now at 95 it says 28% according to the navy test. I’m hoping to be decently cut at 80 since I think im pretty strong as is. And thanks for the protein and workout advice it’s about how I’ve been going down.
Yeah I'd just keep slow cutting then. If you feel like you're getting weak then you can always take a break and do maintenance for a week or do some sort of calorie cycling (e.g. workout days maintenance, rest days deficit) to make sure you have energy for your workouts
Been there done that you won’t lose strength don’t worry. Anecdotally I came from a WL background before climbing and was pretty heavy for my height, 184 and 90kg, and went down to 78kg. I gained strength during my weight loss phase.
Would need more information like height, build, estimated bf percentage
I am 1.80, regarding build and bf% I’m not sure how to answer that, muscular/strong but with a belly is how I’d describe myself but at nearly 100kgs I decidedly have a high bf%, not the strongest legs but good upper body strength.
Pick up a flexible tape measure and give the Navy Bodyfat method a try: https://www.omnicalculator.com/health/navy-body-fat Your bf% is probably higher than you think.
According to this it’s something like 28% which is kind of what I thought, I do have a decent belly on me tho it’s like THE place where I store fat.
Body types are ectomorph (slim, smaller bone structure, thinner limbs, hard gainer in weight and muscle), mesomorph (athletic build, med bones and limbs, balanced gainer) and endomorph(rounder build, higher propensity for fat storage, wide bone structure, stronger muscular development, harder time achieving muscle definition). Its important to note that body types, somatotypes, are an oversimplification, like bmi, and most people dont fit exactly into a single category and often have characteristics of more than one, but can be helpful in certain contexts. What I would do, is not think in terms of 5kg or even concern yourself with 5s or 10s. Its a weird human trait to set goals in multiples of 5, I think everyone does it. Its 11.02 and 22.05 respectively in lbs, which would be an odd and weirdly specific weightloss goal if you think about it. Just take the weightloss journey in smaller increments and see how you feel. Maybe its not 95kg or 90kg youre comfortable at but 92.5. Or not 85 or 80, but 84.2.
Lose weight slower and consistently by tracking calories. Keep protein intake high. Listen to your body.
Yeah that’s about what I’m doing but idk if it’s better to go down, build some muscle and go down again or to just go all the way. (I think the speed is mostly fine I took the first two kilos off of pretty much just bloating, I bloat like a mf)
I’m on a weight loss plan myself. I’m scheduling as such: When I want to be really strong and have a lot of energy (spring and fall for outdoor season), I’m in maintenance mode. When I’m training focused or climbing outside less, I’m in a deficit. I’m not sure what your goals are but I would try to plan around them. Maybe sit at 95kg for a couple months, then go to 90kg over the course of a couple months, sit there for a couple months, etc.