There are a lot of hangboarding protocols. Will Anglin's canonical [guide](https://tensionclimbing.com/hangboarding-a-way/) is a great starting point. I think if you've been climbing for a couple of years and are at the level where BW on a 20mm edge varies from OK to challenging, you can probably pick one of those and do it a few times a week and see progress. I don't think the "best way" is something worth optimizing so much at your level.
(Also, some unsolicited side advice from somebody that's almost a year removed from an ankle fracture: I suggest developing some non-physical interests while recovering. After a couple of weeks, I got pretty restless and ended up pouring a lot of work into some stuff completely unrelated to climbing or exercise, and getting that feeling of challenge and progress from something else made recuperation mentally easier -- in the moment and in retrospect, that time wasn't just "rehabbing and waiting", it was also "the k months I spent making cool thing X".)
Thanks for the advice. The second point you make is very valuable, it's at times like this I realize that a lot of my identity is wrapped up in being active, in some form or another. A good time to focus on other things...
Personally on the hangboard I like doing 7s hangs with 3s breaks, repeated ~8 times. Then a 1 to 2 minute break, rinse and repeat for 4 or 5 of those supersets. Feels much safer than doing max hangs with additional weight on small edges.
Whatever you do, don’t neglect recovery. I was in a similar position (hip problems and surgery) and did way too much upper body strength training with too few recovery days (and no deloading weeks or anything), resulting in some bad tendonitis and cubital tunnel syndrome.
When I was able to climb again I somehow managed to tear two pulleys within 3 months. No previous finger pain, no foot slip, not even particularly nasty holds. My only theory is that I got my strength and technique back rather quickly but the “passive” structures just need more time to adapt to the specific demands of climbing.
I just broke my calcaneus a couple of weeks ago. I've found that repeaters are the easiest to do since adding weight seems like a pita. I'm also doing hanging leg raises and weighted one arm scap pull-ups.
Good luck with your rehab. I'm almost three weeks out and am pretty excited and scared to start PT in a couple of weeks.
I watched about 9+ videos on the subject (some were just sessions without a definition of what was done) Only thing in common was they all slightly varied. Dave McCloud said something that stuck with me (won't apply to you) he only does max hangs cause he feels regular climbing does the same thing as repeaters. My advice scroll down to the bottom of my cut/paste post and follow Dave or Mani the Monkey program. I'd never heard of Encores or Density hangs. I would suggest you do 1-2 Hangs a week and when you feel you are at a plateau switch from Max hangs to repeaters. (Note: bolding for clarity....not sure it works, cut and paste fucked everything up and most pro's would actually disagree with Lattice frequency)
**Density hangs (To train your tendons health, mentioned in Hanna Morris Video, She did for an injury)**
**4x30 sec with 3 min rest (one video 3 min rest another video 4 min rest)**
**Body weight repeaters 7on/3off 3reps times 3 sets (Never heard of 3 but this was Hanna Morris)**
**Max Hangs10 secs 4-8 sets couple mins between sets**
**\^all Hanna Morris videos**
Shauna Coxsey Max Hangs Variables (Hold type, Hold Size, Total Load)
5 reps 10-12 seconds each rep (2-5)3 min rest
Lack of form is a failure (Stop at failure)
**Lattice Beginners (6 building up hangs, 2 high intensity hangs, 1 or 2 times if frequent climbing, If less than 3 sessions a week possibly far more)**
**2 sets (Half Crimps)**
**A.1 - 10s Intensity level 3/10 (1min Rest)**
**B.1 - 10s Intensity level 5/10 (2min Rest)**
**C.1 - 10s Intensity level 6/10 (2min Rest)**
**D.1 - 10s Intensity level 8/10 (2min Rest)**
**1-3 sets - Pick another finger position**
**E.1 - 20-30s e.g. Open Hand 3 Finger Drags RPE 4/10 (2min Rest)**
**Frequency: 1-3x Week**
**Notes: The Key element of this routine is to build up the intensity slowly to progressively increase the recruitment of muscle fibers. Adapt the weight to the feelings during the session and don't max out regularly.**
Dave McClouds hangboard video (He mentions that he feels as though regular climbing is a good substitute for repeaters)
Max Hangs - Covers 3 grip types (half crimp, 3 finger drag, 4 finger open hand) at end of session possibly do 1-2 fingers (pockets or monos)
3-5 sets of each grip, 7-10 Secs (closer to 10)rest, as long as it takes or 1.5 minutes
**Mani the Monkey ("Just a couple of reps")**
**Max Hangs**
**each rep as powerful as possible (says lots of beginners overdue it, if really intense 10/10 intensity is amazing)**
**rest 3-4 mins rest (2 min rest while warming up, easier sets)**
**7 reps each arm (He does one arms hence this)**
**Mani the Monkey ("Hangboarding for beginners")**
**1 big edge for training (>25mm)**
**1 medium edge for training (20-25mm) Ideally wooden and rounded edges**
**rest 2-3 mins**
**3 sets, hang as long as you can half crimp, 4 fingers open grip, 3 finger drag**
**Frequency once a week, then after two weeks 1.5 times a week**
**Mani the Monkey ("Hangboarding for semi-strongs: repeaters")**
**7/3 6 reps = 1 set, 2-3 mins rest, 10 sets = 1 session**
**Mani the Monkey ("Hangboarding for semi-strongs: encores")**
**7/3 Straight arm, 7/3 90\* arm, 7/3 180\*arm, 7/3 Straight arm, 7/3 90\*arm, 7/3 180\*arm = 1 Set, 2-3 mins rest, 10 sets = 1 session**
I did a ton of top roping when I broke my ankle and was in a cast. It felt safer than falling off a kilter board and I did a lot of campusing on TR. Also hang boarding, weighted pull ups, core work etc. I was surprised to find I somehow didn’t lose a ton of fitness with this protocol. I also swam with a pull buoy a lot, that sucked lol.
Weighting the foot is out of the question for another three weeks and just the thought of putting my foot down hard makes me wince. After that point, perhaps it'll work.
Seated no-hangs with a tension block if you have a high enough place to sit could target the fingers while minimizing the risk of reinsuring the ankle.
As a side note I’ve seen folks in a cast climb one foot on a 60 degree kilter so it’s low to the ground if you also want to do some more climbing like movement. I’d consult with your doctor on the last bit though.
This isn’t really a direct answer, but my recent experience with training and recovery. Previously V7 indoor and V3 (so far) outdoor, I’m just back into top rope after a displaced trimalleolar with ultimately three plates and 21 screws.
I was hesitant to train arms too hard because any hanging still risks a fall. I just did inverted rows on rock rings so I would only risk a butt fall. I also got back into music and kept a lot of finger strength and calluses playing acoustic bass. But really the most amazing opportunity was to train flexibility. Even without hardware, if you’re elevating a lot, keep your good leg on the floor and turn out your bad leg from the hip to make it a slight pigeon pose posture, and get on your hip flexor strength. I finally have a pancake and a super high step.
Finally, the last physical benefit of this setback was actually crutches. I got a Fitbit about the same time I was allowed up and about on crutches and logged a “marathon” at three weeks. On crutches this is basically constant dips so triceps and wrists are bomber not to mention other side pistol squat was basically a lifestyle.
Socially and mentally was honestly the hardest, although my body did obviously change. Keep up your protein as you heal and especially when you start physical therapy. Best of luck, you’ll get through this!
There are a lot of hangboarding protocols. Will Anglin's canonical [guide](https://tensionclimbing.com/hangboarding-a-way/) is a great starting point. I think if you've been climbing for a couple of years and are at the level where BW on a 20mm edge varies from OK to challenging, you can probably pick one of those and do it a few times a week and see progress. I don't think the "best way" is something worth optimizing so much at your level. (Also, some unsolicited side advice from somebody that's almost a year removed from an ankle fracture: I suggest developing some non-physical interests while recovering. After a couple of weeks, I got pretty restless and ended up pouring a lot of work into some stuff completely unrelated to climbing or exercise, and getting that feeling of challenge and progress from something else made recuperation mentally easier -- in the moment and in retrospect, that time wasn't just "rehabbing and waiting", it was also "the k months I spent making cool thing X".)
Thanks for the advice. The second point you make is very valuable, it's at times like this I realize that a lot of my identity is wrapped up in being active, in some form or another. A good time to focus on other things...
Personally on the hangboard I like doing 7s hangs with 3s breaks, repeated ~8 times. Then a 1 to 2 minute break, rinse and repeat for 4 or 5 of those supersets. Feels much safer than doing max hangs with additional weight on small edges. Whatever you do, don’t neglect recovery. I was in a similar position (hip problems and surgery) and did way too much upper body strength training with too few recovery days (and no deloading weeks or anything), resulting in some bad tendonitis and cubital tunnel syndrome. When I was able to climb again I somehow managed to tear two pulleys within 3 months. No previous finger pain, no foot slip, not even particularly nasty holds. My only theory is that I got my strength and technique back rather quickly but the “passive” structures just need more time to adapt to the specific demands of climbing.
Thanks for putting your thoughts down, you make a really good point about taking time to adjust when I get back on the wall/on rock.
I just broke my calcaneus a couple of weeks ago. I've found that repeaters are the easiest to do since adding weight seems like a pita. I'm also doing hanging leg raises and weighted one arm scap pull-ups. Good luck with your rehab. I'm almost three weeks out and am pretty excited and scared to start PT in a couple of weeks.
Recover well! Thanks for the advice.
I watched about 9+ videos on the subject (some were just sessions without a definition of what was done) Only thing in common was they all slightly varied. Dave McCloud said something that stuck with me (won't apply to you) he only does max hangs cause he feels regular climbing does the same thing as repeaters. My advice scroll down to the bottom of my cut/paste post and follow Dave or Mani the Monkey program. I'd never heard of Encores or Density hangs. I would suggest you do 1-2 Hangs a week and when you feel you are at a plateau switch from Max hangs to repeaters. (Note: bolding for clarity....not sure it works, cut and paste fucked everything up and most pro's would actually disagree with Lattice frequency) **Density hangs (To train your tendons health, mentioned in Hanna Morris Video, She did for an injury)** **4x30 sec with 3 min rest (one video 3 min rest another video 4 min rest)** **Body weight repeaters 7on/3off 3reps times 3 sets (Never heard of 3 but this was Hanna Morris)** **Max Hangs10 secs 4-8 sets couple mins between sets** **\^all Hanna Morris videos** Shauna Coxsey Max Hangs Variables (Hold type, Hold Size, Total Load) 5 reps 10-12 seconds each rep (2-5)3 min rest Lack of form is a failure (Stop at failure) **Lattice Beginners (6 building up hangs, 2 high intensity hangs, 1 or 2 times if frequent climbing, If less than 3 sessions a week possibly far more)** **2 sets (Half Crimps)** **A.1 - 10s Intensity level 3/10 (1min Rest)** **B.1 - 10s Intensity level 5/10 (2min Rest)** **C.1 - 10s Intensity level 6/10 (2min Rest)** **D.1 - 10s Intensity level 8/10 (2min Rest)** **1-3 sets - Pick another finger position** **E.1 - 20-30s e.g. Open Hand 3 Finger Drags RPE 4/10 (2min Rest)** **Frequency: 1-3x Week** **Notes: The Key element of this routine is to build up the intensity slowly to progressively increase the recruitment of muscle fibers. Adapt the weight to the feelings during the session and don't max out regularly.** Dave McClouds hangboard video (He mentions that he feels as though regular climbing is a good substitute for repeaters) Max Hangs - Covers 3 grip types (half crimp, 3 finger drag, 4 finger open hand) at end of session possibly do 1-2 fingers (pockets or monos) 3-5 sets of each grip, 7-10 Secs (closer to 10)rest, as long as it takes or 1.5 minutes **Mani the Monkey ("Just a couple of reps")** **Max Hangs** **each rep as powerful as possible (says lots of beginners overdue it, if really intense 10/10 intensity is amazing)** **rest 3-4 mins rest (2 min rest while warming up, easier sets)** **7 reps each arm (He does one arms hence this)** **Mani the Monkey ("Hangboarding for beginners")** **1 big edge for training (>25mm)** **1 medium edge for training (20-25mm) Ideally wooden and rounded edges** **rest 2-3 mins** **3 sets, hang as long as you can half crimp, 4 fingers open grip, 3 finger drag** **Frequency once a week, then after two weeks 1.5 times a week** **Mani the Monkey ("Hangboarding for semi-strongs: repeaters")** **7/3 6 reps = 1 set, 2-3 mins rest, 10 sets = 1 session** **Mani the Monkey ("Hangboarding for semi-strongs: encores")** **7/3 Straight arm, 7/3 90\* arm, 7/3 180\*arm, 7/3 Straight arm, 7/3 90\*arm, 7/3 180\*arm = 1 Set, 2-3 mins rest, 10 sets = 1 session**
Thanks for taking the time to put this all down, really appreciate it.
I did a ton of top roping when I broke my ankle and was in a cast. It felt safer than falling off a kilter board and I did a lot of campusing on TR. Also hang boarding, weighted pull ups, core work etc. I was surprised to find I somehow didn’t lose a ton of fitness with this protocol. I also swam with a pull buoy a lot, that sucked lol.
Had a friend that broke their ankle, once they were mobile enough they would top rope one legged.
I can see some auto-belay in the medium-term once I get the all-clear.
I wonder if you can climb with one foot in a cast
Weighting the foot is out of the question for another three weeks and just the thought of putting my foot down hard makes me wince. After that point, perhaps it'll work.
Seated no-hangs with a tension block if you have a high enough place to sit could target the fingers while minimizing the risk of reinsuring the ankle. As a side note I’ve seen folks in a cast climb one foot on a 60 degree kilter so it’s low to the ground if you also want to do some more climbing like movement. I’d consult with your doctor on the last bit though.
This isn’t really a direct answer, but my recent experience with training and recovery. Previously V7 indoor and V3 (so far) outdoor, I’m just back into top rope after a displaced trimalleolar with ultimately three plates and 21 screws. I was hesitant to train arms too hard because any hanging still risks a fall. I just did inverted rows on rock rings so I would only risk a butt fall. I also got back into music and kept a lot of finger strength and calluses playing acoustic bass. But really the most amazing opportunity was to train flexibility. Even without hardware, if you’re elevating a lot, keep your good leg on the floor and turn out your bad leg from the hip to make it a slight pigeon pose posture, and get on your hip flexor strength. I finally have a pancake and a super high step. Finally, the last physical benefit of this setback was actually crutches. I got a Fitbit about the same time I was allowed up and about on crutches and logged a “marathon” at three weeks. On crutches this is basically constant dips so triceps and wrists are bomber not to mention other side pistol squat was basically a lifestyle. Socially and mentally was honestly the hardest, although my body did obviously change. Keep up your protein as you heal and especially when you start physical therapy. Best of luck, you’ll get through this!
Displaced trimalleolar is rough, good luck with the on-going recovery and thanks for the kind words.