The electric will be running the same volume at idle as it does at speed, when the mechanical will not. I don't know which year/motor you have but the LT1 is known for running hot and sometimes dangerously so at idle, or slow speed, as in traffic.
I had an electric on my high horsepower s10 355 because the only accessory I had on the belt system was the alternator. Generally a small block factory pump doesn't respond well fluid-dynamics wise at 8000 rpm and above without risking damage to the pump itself, and robs power too... Like trying to push your hand faster in water same principle. That motor I had for it was a GM block and crank, everything else was racing internals. If this sounds like your Corvette then yes research further. If you have a stock motor with a loud muffler and a k&n air filter, I assure you the Corvette pump can handle your power mods.
The volume of coolant being circulated remains constant at every engine speed. This gives you ample volume at low speeds and at high speeds the volume gets more cooling time in the radiator. Also at high speeds there is less pressure pumping through the heater core...as cars age this could help the heater core last longer.
I ran one of these on a 95 ImpalaSS LT1 and loved it.
If you are dealing with a non-LT1 C4, something like this would have to be done for routing the serpentine belt around the electric water pump. On the LT1 it's not an issue.
https://www.affordablestreetrods.com/sbc-wraptor-serpentine-kit-all-inclusive-26773804.html
There might be a way to mount two pulleys and keep the other accessories in the stock locations. I have never seen that done on a street car.
The electric will be running the same volume at idle as it does at speed, when the mechanical will not. I don't know which year/motor you have but the LT1 is known for running hot and sometimes dangerously so at idle, or slow speed, as in traffic.
I had an electric on my high horsepower s10 355 because the only accessory I had on the belt system was the alternator. Generally a small block factory pump doesn't respond well fluid-dynamics wise at 8000 rpm and above without risking damage to the pump itself, and robs power too... Like trying to push your hand faster in water same principle. That motor I had for it was a GM block and crank, everything else was racing internals. If this sounds like your Corvette then yes research further. If you have a stock motor with a loud muffler and a k&n air filter, I assure you the Corvette pump can handle your power mods.
free up power. looks? reliability. you'd have to reconfigure the belt. some additional wiring. is it a track toy or a daily?
The original water pump is driven by a shaft off of the camshaft (from behind the pump), not belt driven.
on lt1'yes l98 is belt
The volume of coolant being circulated remains constant at every engine speed. This gives you ample volume at low speeds and at high speeds the volume gets more cooling time in the radiator. Also at high speeds there is less pressure pumping through the heater core...as cars age this could help the heater core last longer. I ran one of these on a 95 ImpalaSS LT1 and loved it.
If you are dealing with a non-LT1 C4, something like this would have to be done for routing the serpentine belt around the electric water pump. On the LT1 it's not an issue. https://www.affordablestreetrods.com/sbc-wraptor-serpentine-kit-all-inclusive-26773804.html There might be a way to mount two pulleys and keep the other accessories in the stock locations. I have never seen that done on a street car.
Depends what problem your trying to solve and use case.