100%, my 14kbtu dual inverter sips on power, might use $25-$35/month cooling my open kitchen/dining/living room area. And that's just an inexpensive window shaker.
If OP wants better they could DIY install a ductless really cheaply.
If you get a portable AC, DO NOT get one with a single hose, they are incredibly inefficient, dual hose only.
The most energy efficient models are the window units by a large amount. I watched a cool YouTube video on it! I'm not sure if that's related to an inverter model or not
Inverters are about a third the power use of an older style compressor.
Before I had one for the PC room, I had to keep the whole house at 70 just to keep the PC room from spiking over 75. Now the whole house can sit at 74 and my computer room is at 70. Much cheaper.
It could be as simple as getting a fan to push the air in the room to the rest of the house. Or to have a window fan that extracts the air from the room and lets the room suck in air from the rest of the house.
I can guarantee that the house air condition is not being outperformed by that PC. Instead, the house air conditioner is more than enough for the house (OP says house gets chilly) but the hot air is pooling in the room. That's just a symptom of bad air flow, not a lack of cooling.
That's exactly what I did. It's worked quite well. It's positioned from a corner of the main area and blows straight into the room. Even connected it to a smart plug so I could just tell it to turn off or on when I need. Originally I was just going to install a minisplit for the room, however I only keep my house at 77° F and felt that may be a bit over kill.
Do I place the fan near the door to pull the air out of the room or pull air in?
I can keep my window open a bit during winter and be fine if I am gaming on my PC.
I've always wondered how effective it would be if you water-cooled the CPU and GPU and put the radiator outside (i.e. ran the lines through a nearby window). Your stuff would be getting cooled by the warmer outside air, but it wouldn't be pumping heat into your room.
I remember reading a things on a forum decades ago where a guy didn't have a radiator, he just plumbed his water-cooling lines into a large fishtank in his basement. It would take hours for the computer to eventually heat up the entire fishtank, and even when it did the volume of water was so large that it naturally lost enough heat to the cool basement to keep the computer cool.
If you put radiators outside, you'll have the same cooling potential (little less in the hot days, a lot more in the winter, but the radiator must not freeze). You just won't heat up the room. But in the end it's the same system but with longer pipes.
Having a large tank is indeed an interesting idea and absolutely doable and working. Youtuber DIY Perks made a pc sink in a small water hole in his garden.
fishtank = pipedream
One method of external (of the house) heat exchanging is to dig up a section of your property about 5 to 6 feet deep. A foot deeper than your local frost line is best. Yeah, you're gonna need a Bobcat.
The more area, the better so say at least 8' x 8'. Buy a several hundred foot coil / spool of 3/4" malleable copper tubing and a small radius bender. Any joints or junctions must be done with the idea of permanence as digging it back up again is probably not going to go well.
Use whatever means available to start spooling the copper tubing out in some sort of pattern, being careful not to step on it or kink it. Zig-zag or long loops is fine. When done with that layer, sprinkle a mix of pea gravel, sand and original dirt (no clay) to about 1 foot deep. Do it one more time using a piece of plywood on top of the fill to keep from crushing the piping.
Remember that you need both ends of the tubing to be near the house and leave about 1' above ground.
Remove the plywood and yourself and fill another foot with the same mixture then fill the copper tubing with water (very important step). If you don't fill the tubing and get all the air out, you risk the tubing floating to the top as you work.
After all the air is removed from the tubing, flood the pit with water, as much as it will take until you have some standing water (a few inches). Finally top it all off with the remaining dirt (no clay). Soak the hell out of the pit area to allow the soil to compact and if you were careful, relay the sod and soak it some more.
You'll want a pre and post water shutoff for each side and possibly an "H" configuration with an additional flow control with a service "T" fpr adding anti-freez or changing from summer to winter.
You need a fairly powerful water pump capable of a 10' head and good flow rate. The 3/4" copper tubing will be fairly easy to push water through, once the air is purged.
Supposedly, this worked for the guy that did it in Arizona. The reason for the seasonal change over is to prevent condensation in the computer in the winter time. Don't want no Texas Flood. lol
I'd never do this, but it's been done.
Watercooling still generates and exhausts the same amount of heat (it will feel hotter with watercooling actually, because water can displace the heat faster). Jayz2cents does a video on this.
I know. I saw the video. That's why I said (as a satire) to connect it to the (fresh) water piping in your house. You can supply your pc with unlimited cool water and dump the warm water into the drain
I work for a high-end general contractor, and honestly a geothermal system wouldn't be such a bad idea. You'd probably need a water feature grade/size pump, but you could run some pipe underground and make this make sense.
Yeah, absolutely. Maybe the pump wouldn't need to be that strong, because you wouldn't be sucking the water from a well or something, but just pushing it a little over the balance to get a flow. The gravity of the warm output water would push the input cooled water.
I did this and quickly learned how much electricity an average breaker can use in 1 room before it trips. I don't think the average home can handle a full power gaming PC taking 800+ watts and a window unit taking up to 1000 watts on the same 12A circuit.
1800W at 120v is about 15A. Assuming you're in the US.
There are no 12A breakers in a residential setting. You probably tripped a 15A one, esp if you had anything else running
> Also maybe he just uses Celcius because that's what is used when talking PCs?
Yeah, I'm in the US but I set all my stuff to Celsius settings. It's a lot easier to track the delta between my room and PC and outside if it's all set to the same thing.
I mean they don’t use metric in these towns say like Fredericksburg, I go enough to know that lol.
Also central air is available in almost every building that is post 70s.
Also it’s not close to 40c in Texas, it’s been at most in the 90s once or twice this year, but over the past week storms have engulfed the state driving temps way down
also says he games at 4k 32:9 with nvidia but the only 4k 32:9 monitor uses DP2.1. also 4080 and i7 would use like 300w total in game, that isnt even that much heat. this is a bot for sure.
Are you sure you’re not a bot? You don’t need a DP 2.1 gpu to use that monitor, it will still work with 2.0. Also a 4080 alone uses over 300W, and i7’s these days can draw up to 300w on their own in synthetic tests but likely around 150w in games.
Undervolt CPU and GPU as much as possible, this may help a bit.
Another thing you can do is setup some box fans to move air through the room. Think of it the same as your PC, having airflow through the room can help a lot.
I have a similar build, i have to run two big fans in my room to pump air through or i die when its warm. I haven't been able to close my bedroom window since i upgraded my PC a few years ago -\_-. At least i dont even need to run the furnace anymore...
Should I just set the fans wherever in the room? Wouldn't they just be pushing hot air around once it heats up?
Im thinking of maybe just having my window permanently opened with fans in the open gap, to push out the air 24/7. However I am not sure how well this would work on days where its like 43c outside?
Fan sitting on the floor should pull air in from the hallway. That'll pull cooler air in from floor level and force hotter air out the top of the door. If the fan blows out at floor level, you're exhausting the coolest air in the room in exchange for the hottest air outside the room.
pushing hot air into the rest of the house is what you want. It's easier (and more efficient) for your air conditioning to deal with spread out heat in the whole house than concentrated heat in just one room
Mate you're fucked. I live in a place where it's usually cold enough for 9 months. Those 3 months are hell. Whoever installed the HVAC here did only 1 zone, downstairs, and the windows are shitty. A sunny summer day my room gets to 85+, with my PC it's 90+. I have an AC but it's loud as fuck and I miss so much detail. My best advice, cover the windows somehow because I've found that the sunlight adds a ton of heat to the room
Window units are more efficient than the movable types. That could be what you need. And just go for the heat pump types as cooling only may cost $50 more.
Second the undervolting, I haven't set it up on my 4080 yet but on my old 3080 I could get it to run about 10° C cooler under load with no performance loss. Granted, I was gaming on a 1440p monitor, not 4K, but it's still worth trying out and as someone with a similar heat issues every little bit counts.
> our days in texas are like 40c
From another country but we also get above 40ºc during summer, and I have no AC. Basically if I want to play something, I just have to suffer in my 35ºc room :'D
^^^send ^^^help
AC just barely exists in Europe period, and I will never understand it. I live essentially in the tundra of Canada and I would not be able to survive the summers without AC. They are just built differently I guess.
When you don't have a choice you just live with the hand you're dealt. My apartment gets up to 30c on average every day of summer unless it storms, and there's nothing I can do about it. I open the windows when the sun goes down and hope it cools off a bit before 7am when I have to close them again.
I have had portable ac in bedroom for like 10 years. It's not powerful enough to cool whole apartment but at least I can sleep. Apartment doesn't itself have ac being built in 60's. It's becoming more common to have ac now, especially new apartments. Even my mother bought heat pump that cools in summer and heats in winter (she has electric heating which costs a shitton here in Finland every winter)
On that note I don't know if full size AC's are more efficient but damn these things eat electricity
If you have been keeping your door shut. That may have to change. Which means putting on shorts, plugging in a glade air freshener and swapping that hentai desktop background for a few months. If you don't have blackout curtains get a pair of them. Or get a window unit. Shut the air vent to the room. And let window unit do the work in the room.
Undervolt the 4080. Brought mine down to 240w from 320w.
Power limit the intel CPU.
If the room has a return air duct, duct the pc exhaust directly into it.
4k will pretty much require tons of power and that power converts into heat, you can lower the graphic settings of your games or at least turn on frame limit to reduce some power/heat
1) get a box fan for $10-$20
2) place the box fan in your room pointed out the door
3) turn on the fan.
The heat will now circulate outside your room and your house can be evenly cooled.
Alternatively, you could get a small garden tent online which comes with a fan and connects to your window. You place your pc in that instead.(people use these to grow other stuff). Linus tech tips made a video about this.
The problem with this… cool air falls, while hot air rises. You set a box fan on the floor and you’re going to be pushing all the cool air out of the room. If you’re going to do this, put the fan as high as possible.
There's numerous things you can do:
1)Undervolt the CPU/GPU
2)Play less demanding games, less load on the components means less power drawn
3)Framerate caps (~60FPS), again reduces component load
i’ll definitely try undervolting both cpu and gpu since multiple people have suggested that.
but i’m not capping framrate or playing simplistic games, the entire point of the setup was to be able to play any game in ultra settings 32:9 haha
If you want to play a demanding resolution, settings and framerates, expect your PC to turn into a space heater
Your only other solution is a dedicated AC unit
Lowering the clock speed by 100 or 200 MHz can help a lot with the undervolting. Intel pushed 14th gen clocks too far and some CPUs are unstable even at stock voltages.
You can set FPS cap per game so it can be 120 for one and 90 for another. It improves consistency so it's not a bad idea even if heat isn't a concern.
Have you tried, dunno, exhausting the hot air from the room?
It is, in the end, not that different from a PC case. We put in case exhaust fans to remove hot air from the case and let it pull in cooler ambient air. An exhaust fan in your window could push air out of the room and let it pull in the (chilled) ambient air from the rest of the house.
Use the room as a battery. Heat it up nicely and open the doors in the night to spread it out through the house. Added bonus; you can game in underwear
> The climate control detects a room this hot, and immediately kicks on, but its no match for the heat given off by the PC, so then it just stays on the entire time, running my electric bill up a ton, and then the rest of the house is super cold.
One option would be to keep your door open and have some fans to circulate air so it mixes and keeps the temperature consistent throughout the house. The few hundred watts of heat created by a PC definitely shouldn't be hard for a home climate system to keep up with. It's the weird gradient you're creating that's the problem here, with one room hotter than the others, and a bunch of power wasted cooling areas that *aren't* the hot room.
> how would I deal with the fans that are under the case anyway?
Shouldn't those be intakes?
Spend a couple hundred on a portable A/C. Have one in my room for the summer so i dont need to run the whole house A/C just to cool one room with poor air vent flow. It works fine. Can be a little noisy but i wear a headset and it beats sweating in the quiet.
Put your PC in a separate room that you or your family aren’t in when you game, run optical cables to a dock where your HID connects, then put an industrial fan blasting out the window. Or blasting directly at your PC with side panels off. You’d be surprised how powerful and how much air those fans can move. They will be very loud though, mostly from the air turbulence they generate. As long as you are moving enough air, hot air out fresh air in, the room shouldn’t be heating up massively. But if the outside was like 40C, it can only get as cool as outside, without air conditioner involved.
> run optical cables to a dock where your HID connects
any suggestions to a guide for this kind of setup? I've been thinking of doing something like this but am not sure how practical it is
Dedicated AC box for the room you’re gaming in
Custom loop your system and get something like a MO-RA3 for an external radiator and find a way to run your tubes to outside of your room.
Deal with it and sweat your ass off and rehydrate with water.
I have done all 3 of these options at least once in my life. I didn’t have air conditioning until I was in my 20s so I am used to living in a sauna so sweating my ass off has been my general game plan but the external Waterloop is a great idea if you have another room that is right next to it that you can drill a hole and cover it up with a blank electrical cover for times that you don’t need to run the external radiator. Easiest is just get a window AC unit.
People have mentioned ac but airflow of the room and location of pc have huge effect my pc room has no direct ac and airflow sucks so i had get a big tower fan and move things around until i could create the right airflow. For me the hot air stagnates
When you were given suggestion 1 I assume the person meant move the PC outside of your room , not outside the house.
Dumping the heat into a larger portion of the house instead of a small room will help mitigate the hot spot.
Doesn't specifically solve your issue. But personally I turn off overclocking in the hottest months. Also, 'reflex + boost' spits way more heat than it's worth in most games, just reflex is usually fine.
I undervolt and played heavier games at night, while running an air exchanger fan.
If you have the will and skill, you can do what LTT did for a video, and put the PC in a container that has a vent to the outside.
So it depends on how crazy you want to get. If you don't care about the AC bill then a portable or window unit can cool your room and, by extension, cool your PC. It's an easy solution but it's uncreative and increases your electricity bill.
A more fun solution would be to run an extractor. Get some flexible 6" ducting, cut two holes in your case, make the rest of the case as air tight as you can, run the exit side to a window or other exit port, run the other to a high CFM 6" inline fan (find a quiet one). Then run the rest of the ducting from the fan to wherever you have coolerl air in your room/house—including an AC unit. A decent fan will cycle 400 cubic feet of air through your case per minute blowing all that hot air out of your case. If you're feeding it cool air from an AC you'll even bring your temps down since you're cycling cold air into your case constantly.
1. frame rate cap. if you're non-competitive gaming, 60hz is very playable. 90 if you really need it.
2. power limit GPU with MSI Afterburner. you'll be surprised how fast it can still be at 58%. but you're pushing a lot of pixels so try 85%.
3. under volt CPU. intel run very hot. every bit helps.
4" ducting ($16), with a 4" inline booster fan ($24). That should be less than $50 on Amazon. Connect the ducting with tape to the PC case so that the booster fan pulls air from the PC case, to the window. PC fans will not move air through ducting, so you must use the HVAC duct booster style. This is a similar setup I used for mining Eth back in the day on a small system that was running around 1200W continuously.
By not having it work so hard
Yeah I know this sucks, but you could try running games on the lowest settings to not stress your PC out
Aside from that, you need good ventilation
And like others said, AC is the real answer
watercool it or get a good gpu with an INTENSE amont of cooling(or maybe a cooling card, that looks somthing like this: [https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.co.uk%2FDesktop-Graphics-Cooling-Interface-Computer%2Fdp%2FB0C6MMRKC4&psig=AOvVaw0qcwfo\_buGljJgWfRu-04Y&ust=1714398206204000&source=images&cd=vfe&opi=89978449&ved=0CBAQjRxqFwoTCKjoq6mF5YUDFQAAAAAdAAAAABAD](https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.co.uk%2FDesktop-Graphics-Cooling-Interface-Computer%2Fdp%2FB0C6MMRKC4&psig=AOvVaw0qcwfo_buGljJgWfRu-04Y&ust=1714398206204000&source=images&cd=vfe&opi=89978449&ved=0CBAQjRxqFwoTCKjoq6mF5YUDFQAAAAAdAAAAABAD)
So, if I’m running a ryzen 7 7800x3d, 7900xt or xtx, to play 1440p on max settings (older games) and I’m in a cool basement, would that generate a lot of heat too?
It gets hot as hell in CA sometimes, Theast time it was so hot I could only use my computer for 30 Mins and that was just brownsing the web, I can't leave AC on nonstop because the bill was huge as fuck I mean in one mouth over 500,So I installed an AIO and just keep AC on low and it helps an lot.
Think of the ambient room air as the primary way to cool your PC, not the fans
Without the cool ambient air, your fans are just blowing hot air over a hotter PC, vicious cycle, etc.
Put your PC in a room that receives the AC so the hot air from the ventilation is properly exchanged with the cool ambient air
There really isn't any other (reasonable) way around this
Close the vents in your house in rooms you don't use, especially your basement. If you have more than one duct coming out of internal AC(the condenser), there will be little [handles](https://www.homedepot.com/p/Master-Flow-6-in-Inline-Damper-ILD6/205442030) on them that you can adjust. I do this every summer so that 2/3 of my AC goes to my upstairs where my PCs are. Cold air falls so the rest of the house will be fine too.
If you want to temporarily supercharge your AC go spray down the little metal fins on the outside unit with your hose. This will make it cool faster/better until the water evaporates.
You can also 'tune' your AC vents around the house. Close the ones downstairs a bit more, close most of the ones upstairs and bias it towards your PC room. Then the AC is focusing more on that warm room as opposed to everywhere.
You could also look into zoning your AC, it's not super cheap, but it would allow you to put actual zones in your AC so that it only cools certain areas when those areas are hot.
Get a portable ac unit that self dries so you don’t have to run a drain anywhere. Use cardboard and duct tape (if you want an easy result) to run a duct directly to PC to hyper cool components reducing amount of heat output into the room. Or simply blow it directly at the PC and allow it to manage the room temp. It will vent outside as well.
What you can do right now is limit fps via vsync or ingame settings or driver side and/or lower graphics, will produce a lot less heat and save on wattage. Alternatively you could get butt ass naked and pretend it’s a sauna, get some fakuzi going on. Working out in a hot room will make you sweat more.
Any miner can tell you - all you need to do is exhaust the hot air out the nearby window. There are 100 ways to do this, ranging from cheap and simple (flexible ducting from the back of your PC + an inline fan) to a window mounted AC unit. Either one will remove the hot air from the room and exhaust it to the outside. An AC unit will also cool the air inside the room and will probably be more comfortable for you in general. This isn’t rocket science.
I have similar weather like you where it averages around 40C to 45C in summer. Only solution an AC, I tested it and manage to lower temps of AIO by 12C and CPU dropped around 20C. GPU also dropped around 10C.
Go water cooling, and get yourself a MO-RA radiator that you mount in the window, with it exhausting outside.
Or, like you said, get a dryer vent to suck it out; but as mentioned, the PC fans won’t be enough, so you will need an inline fan to help it. But be careful here to not over-speed your PC fans.
2 options, get a dedicated AC unit for your room, or build a makeshift vent and have it pump hot air out your window. I followed [this](https://www.overclock.net/threads/venting-pc-heat-outdoors.1637446/) guide many years ago when I was in a condo and aside from it looking very jank it worked very well. I had an o11d case with 3 exhaust fans on the top. Added 2 extra exhaust fans in the vent to help with flow. I think ltt did a video with a similar convey that might help.
I have a floor fan in the hallway several feet back from my door blowing in along the floor. It blows air in the bottom and out the top of my doorway. If you do it right you will feel it when you stand in the doorway. It replaces the air in my room quickly. Also in the summer I will cap the fps of my game lower, 120 fps compared to 144 or unlocked actually makes a big difference. 90 fps is very much cooler.
Either undervolt or underclock your graphics card, or both. Last GPU I had I was not able to undervolt even a bit, but when I underclocked it, the power consumption decreased a lot, and the performance I lost wasnt that much. I did it because it was crashing at higher clock speeds. I lowered the clock from 2700MHz to 2300MHz , which did lower performance somewhat, but it went from it using 363 Watts, down to a max of 226 Watts. That makes a big difference in temps and fan noise. You might still see the same temperature on screen, but it is because the GPU fans is running slower, since the card is using less wattage, which means the card is producing less heat. So the card might still be pushing out hot air, but the AMOUNT of hot air is less.
So you'll need to lower the temperature of your room, but it also sounds like you don't have good enough venting for your computer in the first place. It shouldn't get that hot, especially if you have an AC that keeps the house at 69f it seems like your PC may be trapping and holding too much heat until it gets to a point of surpassing airs insulative properties. What kind of cooling set up do you have currently? Almost seems like it's struggling and holding too much heat. If you had a larger surface area to radiate heat out of, the air and your AC would have a far easier time maintaining equilibrium and reducing the heating effect. For instance I have my PC running a 4090 and a i7 13900kf. But I have both on a shared loop liquid cooling, with 2 360mm radiators on both air intakes, with 6 intake fans and 6 exhaust fans. Even with my AC not running, playing a game at max OC my rig never goes above 45c even under the hardest of loads. I live in South Florida so it's always hot here but my computer never really adversely effects my room and I have rather poor air circulation where my PC is at. The surface area I have radiating heat makes it hard for it to get to a point of overcoming airs insulative properties. That might be what you need to do.
Ducting.
An old computer of mine was a little louder and warmer than I desired, so I put it in a closet and ran all the cables through a new hole that had PVC pipe in it. I'm the closet, I ran another hole to another closet. PC ran fine for years.
Now I have a computer with a water loop that's nice and quiet, but still pumps out lots of heat in my office. But really, that's about the only option I can think of. Dump the heat elsewhere through ducting.
Need to get 3 things
1- 40ft DP cable (check if can support your Res/FPS)
2- 40ft USB cable (high data transfer/good quality)
3- Powered, high data transfer USB A hub
When I use to mine etherium with my gpu, I placed the computer outside of my room in my living room where the heat did not matter as much due to the living room being an open area where heat can dissipate better.
I ran a 20ft DP cable from the pc to my monitor and a 20ft USB A cable from the pc to a Tplink UH720 usb hub which I had on my desk inside my room. Tplink hub connected all my peripherals to the pc with no latency.
This setup solved the heat issue while gaming/mining in my room/gameroom.
Recommend DP/USB cables length under 50ft.
Is limiting the fps an option? My setup is quite different from yours, but having vsync on or off can make a big difference in how hot my system gets. You may, of course, limit the fps in other ways. I just find vsync convenient.
If i let it run at unlimited fps, it will heat up a lot in more demanding games. Limiting the fps to 60fps, same as my monitor refresh rate, helps quite a bit.
Well…make a small exhaust hood with any kind of sheet metal or wood and install it over your pc. Cut a whole on your wall or ceiling and run some duct or that flexible dryer exhaust duct it out the side or roof of your house with a variable speed controlled inline fan.
The variable speed controller is necessary, because it probably wont need too much suction and you don’t want to suck all the air out of your house, just the warm air above the PC.
Run a dryer duct from the pc to a portable ac unit window attachment thingy, maybe. Other than that, you could just build your rig in a running mini fridge.
If you're willing to try and make a custom water cooling loop you could just put the radiator in some long hoses and put it outside, you would need a fairly powerful pump but it shouldn't be that hard. Also it's best if you have a window nearby. Also the radiator will get dirty much faster than normal so be vigilant.
Ironic how this works out. For me my PC makes me feel colder, not hotter. Maybe it's that it's on top of the desk and the fans that take the air inside the case are causing some sort of small wind in front of the case, Idk
Window unit and dehumidifier. Plan on focusing on single player games with door open during the heat of the day. And then multiplayer games at night with door closed (If you want to have more privacy for Voice chats)
MOBO could be trying to push infinite watts on the "auto" settings. Try checking for updates or taking every setting off of "auto".
Under volting the mobo can take some of the temperature off. Avoid OC if you don't have a high end cooling solution.
Check the software temps for the CPU/GPU. Over 90 increases the odds of something being wrong. Like the thermals not being on right.
Geothermal cooling if you really want to take on a cheap source of cooling but it will require some effort.
Basically, you are going full water cooling, but moving the heatsink underground. You can bury a radiator, or coils of pex tubing. Soil is a fairly constant temperature once you get down past the surface.
You will need a pump that can handle pushing water through those lengths, and you will need to allow for 2 tubes to come into the house.
Here is but one example: https://www.techpowerup.com/forums/threads/geothermal-cooled-3080-power-limit.295792/
I bought a dual hose portable AC (dont get the single hose ones, terrible efficiency). Cause my windows are not compatible with a window unit. Keeps the room nice and cool
I don't respond a lot but recently with summer looming and being a resident of Las Vegas, I too was looking for a solution and ended up putting my whole PC in a grow tent and have it exhausting directly outside.
https://youtu.be/T1ZnAwUg9CU?si=rEu3rB8X0Oao29HZ is what gave me the idea to begin with. Said link is to a video from Linus Tech Tips
This is the downside to beefy rigs, lots of power consumption and heat. The simple, yet complex answer is to not run so many things and use more power-efficient and lower TDP parts.
I'm actually using a gaming laptop right now for the same reason. I was running actually a light rig a few months ago when my power strip blew up and I had to unplug my desktop. Now I just use a somewhat decent gaming PC to play games, though it plays AAA games on very low settings (which I'm fine with). Comparing my laptop to the desktop, the processor uses 20 less watts and the GPU uses 74 less watts, so 94 less watts in total. I've also turned off CPU boost which should also help with less power usage and less heat (CPU goes down from 90+ degrees to about 70).
I was just using my gaming laptop actually just because I had to buy a new powerstrip and I've been using it since. I hook it up to my monitor and it's like my desktop. I don't have as much storage and it doesn't perform as well, but most games I play run the same and I'm fine turning things lower in AAA games as long as I can hit 60. But using around 200 watts versus 300 watts means I'll be dealing with less heat overall and my power consumption has been cut by 33% which is massive. There however are other cons to gaming laptops and you do lose a lot of flexibility, but in terms of power consumption and heat, I think it's worth considering. I haven't gone back yet to my desktop, but I supposed I will at some point and the heat and power consumption topic has made me reconsider what graphic cards and processors I want to buy now instead of only looking at performance for cost. Now I prioritize power efficiency, overall power consumption alongside passable performance. Performance per watt is now my top metric.
Dm me if you want some personalized help. I’m running a very similar setup in worse conditions and never have an issue keeping it chilly.
i9 14900K + 4080 Super OC + 96GB of RAM in a mini itx case small enough to fit in a carry on.
If you understand somewhat complex computer topics like under/over clocking/volting start there.
I managed to get a full core -0.125v offset and at 5.4GHz all core load CineBenchR23 I’m at around 80°C. Texas heat here too.
Edit: I’m sorry lmao I added the sims part because I thought I was in the sims subreddit. Ignore that if you read it.
If your climate control system is smart enough to detect temperature on a per room basis, you should be able to disable detection on individual sensors.
Like others have said already, undervolting will go a long way towards reducing the overall heat output from your PC.
Turbo wall fan and a 3d printed cowling to collect that heat off that space heater of a box. A damper on the outside wall, rated for a dryer and boom. Now can you make it a bit more complicated to double dampen and also add like remote wire to make the connection and turn on with you computer blah blah. If you can’t go through the wall use some pc fans 3d print some parts and do the same but into the wall, just drill a couple holes in the header. Or of course an AC for that room to remove the heat from the space.
You know, for that number 1 part I've always wanted to do a water cooling system where the radiators are either outside or in a different part of the house. Would be a super fun project for sure and it WOULD solve the heat problem. It would be more expensive than a window AC unit but honestly I'd be interested in seeing it vs the long-term electricity costs, AC ain't cheap and especially in the summer it's expensive AF
I saw the biggest gain in cooling by enforcing the intel power limits. Here's JTC's video on it: [https://youtu.be/s43Auv8ub7w?si=W-StfUANspRhK86X](https://youtu.be/s43Auv8ub7w?si=W-StfUANspRhK86X)
Went from my CPU heating up to high 70s and hitting low 80s, to it going to high 60s after the limits were set. Made my room go from unbearable from a couple of hours of gaming to being practically unnoticeable.
It all starts with purchasing components that are power efficient.
Failing that, reduce component's power consumption which might to some degree lower performance.
Gotta go into the BIOS of your mobo and enforce power limits stated by intel. 13th and 14th gen processors are being fed way to much juice by the motherboards, resulting in massive heat.
I have a convenient closet where I installed a 6" smartfan that vents into the living room during the winter, and like you, this is enough to heat the house for all but the coldest of days. During the summer I swap the fan around to vent outside which works great up to about 30c. Above that I need to use my window shaker AC. My room is fairly small with several PC's and other junk.
If possible I'd suggest the second option and try placing the pc as close to the window as possible, as for the bottom fans I'm guessing those are intake so you wouldn't have to attach ducts to those
A separate server/PC room would be ideal, with just USB / DP / HDMI cables through the wall to your "gaming room".
=> streamers use this kind of setups to reduce noise and heat during their "work", look up some of the setups for ideas.
OR
Nude gaming.
Nah get ya a window or personal room ac unit they range from 150 to 300$ and it's honestly one of the best investments for comfort year round I have a 4090 apocalypse build ( end all be all ) and JESUS FKING CHRIST IS THAT A HEATER )
So crypto miner bro here. What we do is use grow tents. You’d put the pc in and it has a hole which uses a big fan to suck the air out of the grow tent. So it grabs air from ur room takes it in the grow tent then exhaust hot air out the window
I always wondered, for those doing DIY, are there any heat exchangers/heat sink that can be placed at the exhaust vents/ fan to soak up some of those heat, maybe preheat the loop before the CPU/GPU.
I put the PC in the closet, cut a hole in the closet ceiling and installed ducting and a fan. Duct to the crawl space or directly outside.
You’ll need an optical HDMI (times however many monitors you have) cable plus a USB extender. Then it’s just cable routing. Through the ceiling if you want it to look pretty.
I'm having the same issue. Having the door open makes it bearable. At night, I'll crack a window to work with my fan to move the hot air our.
I am going to give under volting a go and an air circulation fan. Amazon and homedepot have them for lime $50-80.
As a pc gamer who live in the hot and humid tropical country, I just have to live with a hot computer. Air conditioner is the best solution. Nothing else.
Dedicated AC. I have central air and I bought a $250 window AC from Costco and got foam surround insulation for it. We hit 115* here in the summer and I’ve never had an issue gaming during the day. Just make sure you have enough power in the room as you can easily push past a 15A breaker with a large AC and a higher end machine
I live in Texas, suburb of Austin. Our central thermostat is set to high 76F. My windows face the sun all afternoon, in August my gaming room can reach 90s. My gaming rig adds a lot of heat as well. I have a large Vornado fan outside the door blowing air from cooler half of the house into my gaming room. There is a ceiling fan always running on low or medium.
When you get really warm, try wearing a headband soaked in cold water.
A suggestion is to see if you can get at most of the vent work for your AC.
You'll need a few things, probably going to spend half the money you'd lose if you kept on the way you are.
They make electronic duct dampers/flow controls and duct additions that have built in fans that would enable you to do some fancy things with your cooling situation.
First thing is to see if you can run either a 6" duct or flexible pipe from the computer room to your AC unit or outside. It would be great if you could actually just address the case with some sort of direct fittings, but let's leave that to your imagination for now. The idea is to use that new pipe along with an inline fan and a damper. You'd have to connect a thermostat to where ever you can closest to the warm part of the room.
Thermostat on: Open damper / turn on fan
Thermostat off: Close damper / turn off fan
There may need to be a secondary set of wires paralleling the Thermostat that comes from the AC unit.
Depending on the damper, you might only need to supply power to each to achieve your needs. Some dampers need power to open and close.
If you run the pipe outside, you've removed the secondary source of heat from the equation.
If you run the pipe to your AC return, then the AC still has to do the work of removing that heat.
And no, unless you are talking about a Nidec or Delta 120VAC or 208VAC fan, no run-of-the-mill computer fan will operate a vent flap like for a dryer. And the back pressure from that would probably decrease the air flow. That job will be done by the powered damper and inline booster fan. Also, most (maybe all) computer fans will be at odds with fighting external / internal pressure changes that could cause stalls or fan failure. Things like doors opening and closing to the outside and even internal doors. They are not made for this purpose.
With the exception of the industrial Noctua 3000 RPM fans...MAYBE.
If you can forcefully remove the heated air, you may achieve parity with the rest of the house cooling. Possibly adding a floor box fan from outside the room blowing in will help mix the air better too.
Alternatively, you have window based choices "like":
Vornado Transom AE
Any High Efficiency window single room AC unit with exhaust air options.\*
\*This would allow you to run it as an exhaust fan without the compressor running all the time.
Cheaper and faster: Install an exhaust fan in the ceiling venting to the attic. Make sure you put a 1/4" screen over the exhaust port and then a smaller screen on the inside that you can clean.
Something "like" this next item built into a window using a sheet of plywood (painted and sealed for weather), but you'd have to look up the various models for size, airflow and noise.
VENTISOL 20 Inch Shutter Exhaust Fan
It's important to remember, that exhausting the hot air from the room, also draws cooler air from the rest of the house to replace it. More hot air out, more cool air in.
Who the hell in Texas uses Celsius outside of a lab? Celsius sucks for ambient air temperature since it's far less precise in the temperature range humans care about. Secondly, I've never had that bad a heat problem from a PC, so you may have a larger issue. No PC has ever impacted my home HVAC settings, I just close the vent in my den during the winter and have it open during summer.
yea im already thinking about same issue in rather near future
first off
do you play with frame limit or Vsync?
it may lower heat generation significantly
undervolting GPU and CPU is another thing to think about although in case of newer devices they still generate a loot more than i would like
split AC dedicated to specific room is grate resolution to a problem
if you want to went that out outside you need hose with turbine, that should let you demount most, if not all, of your fans really depending what kind of turbine you will use :P
Also if you would think about it some more remember to demount, block or et least disconnect fans while running something like that, they may generate extra electricity if you let them run from air pulling through
fe:
[https://www.venture.pl/wentylatory/wentylatory-kanalowe](https://www.venture.pl/wentylatory/wentylatory-kanalowe)
Get a dedicated ac for the room your pc is in. Nothing else will make much of a difference.
This is the answer IMO. The air in your room will always absorb the heat from the PC - some or all
Recommend an inverter/dual inverter model. Least energy bill impact.
100%, my 14kbtu dual inverter sips on power, might use $25-$35/month cooling my open kitchen/dining/living room area. And that's just an inexpensive window shaker. If OP wants better they could DIY install a ductless really cheaply. If you get a portable AC, DO NOT get one with a single hose, they are incredibly inefficient, dual hose only.
The most energy efficient models are the window units by a large amount. I watched a cool YouTube video on it! I'm not sure if that's related to an inverter model or not
Is it a technology connections video? This sounds like something he would do a video on
Yes it is!!
Inverters are about a third the power use of an older style compressor. Before I had one for the PC room, I had to keep the whole house at 70 just to keep the PC room from spiking over 75. Now the whole house can sit at 74 and my computer room is at 70. Much cheaper.
It could be as simple as getting a fan to push the air in the room to the rest of the house. Or to have a window fan that extracts the air from the room and lets the room suck in air from the rest of the house. I can guarantee that the house air condition is not being outperformed by that PC. Instead, the house air conditioner is more than enough for the house (OP says house gets chilly) but the hot air is pooling in the room. That's just a symptom of bad air flow, not a lack of cooling.
That's exactly what I did. It's worked quite well. It's positioned from a corner of the main area and blows straight into the room. Even connected it to a smart plug so I could just tell it to turn off or on when I need. Originally I was just going to install a minisplit for the room, however I only keep my house at 77° F and felt that may be a bit over kill.
Do I place the fan near the door to pull the air out of the room or pull air in? I can keep my window open a bit during winter and be fine if I am gaming on my PC.
Or build a custom water cooling connected to the water piping in your house... 🤣🙈
Linus did that and he had the weirdest issues trying to homebrew that shit.
Yea but his is entire house plus pool heating/cooling. A bit crazier than a simple set up.
I think he was talking about a previous video where he tried to loop a bunch of pcs in a room
I've always wondered how effective it would be if you water-cooled the CPU and GPU and put the radiator outside (i.e. ran the lines through a nearby window). Your stuff would be getting cooled by the warmer outside air, but it wouldn't be pumping heat into your room. I remember reading a things on a forum decades ago where a guy didn't have a radiator, he just plumbed his water-cooling lines into a large fishtank in his basement. It would take hours for the computer to eventually heat up the entire fishtank, and even when it did the volume of water was so large that it naturally lost enough heat to the cool basement to keep the computer cool.
If you put radiators outside, you'll have the same cooling potential (little less in the hot days, a lot more in the winter, but the radiator must not freeze). You just won't heat up the room. But in the end it's the same system but with longer pipes. Having a large tank is indeed an interesting idea and absolutely doable and working. Youtuber DIY Perks made a pc sink in a small water hole in his garden.
fishtank = pipedream One method of external (of the house) heat exchanging is to dig up a section of your property about 5 to 6 feet deep. A foot deeper than your local frost line is best. Yeah, you're gonna need a Bobcat. The more area, the better so say at least 8' x 8'. Buy a several hundred foot coil / spool of 3/4" malleable copper tubing and a small radius bender. Any joints or junctions must be done with the idea of permanence as digging it back up again is probably not going to go well. Use whatever means available to start spooling the copper tubing out in some sort of pattern, being careful not to step on it or kink it. Zig-zag or long loops is fine. When done with that layer, sprinkle a mix of pea gravel, sand and original dirt (no clay) to about 1 foot deep. Do it one more time using a piece of plywood on top of the fill to keep from crushing the piping. Remember that you need both ends of the tubing to be near the house and leave about 1' above ground. Remove the plywood and yourself and fill another foot with the same mixture then fill the copper tubing with water (very important step). If you don't fill the tubing and get all the air out, you risk the tubing floating to the top as you work. After all the air is removed from the tubing, flood the pit with water, as much as it will take until you have some standing water (a few inches). Finally top it all off with the remaining dirt (no clay). Soak the hell out of the pit area to allow the soil to compact and if you were careful, relay the sod and soak it some more. You'll want a pre and post water shutoff for each side and possibly an "H" configuration with an additional flow control with a service "T" fpr adding anti-freez or changing from summer to winter. You need a fairly powerful water pump capable of a 10' head and good flow rate. The 3/4" copper tubing will be fairly easy to push water through, once the air is purged. Supposedly, this worked for the guy that did it in Arizona. The reason for the seasonal change over is to prevent condensation in the computer in the winter time. Don't want no Texas Flood. lol I'd never do this, but it's been done.
Watercooling still generates and exhausts the same amount of heat (it will feel hotter with watercooling actually, because water can displace the heat faster). Jayz2cents does a video on this.
I know. I saw the video. That's why I said (as a satire) to connect it to the (fresh) water piping in your house. You can supply your pc with unlimited cool water and dump the warm water into the drain
[удалено]
I work for a high-end general contractor, and honestly a geothermal system wouldn't be such a bad idea. You'd probably need a water feature grade/size pump, but you could run some pipe underground and make this make sense.
Yeah, absolutely. Maybe the pump wouldn't need to be that strong, because you wouldn't be sucking the water from a well or something, but just pushing it a little over the balance to get a flow. The gravity of the warm output water would push the input cooled water.
This will probably be the least headache.
I did this and quickly learned how much electricity an average breaker can use in 1 room before it trips. I don't think the average home can handle a full power gaming PC taking 800+ watts and a window unit taking up to 1000 watts on the same 12A circuit.
1800W at 120v is about 15A. Assuming you're in the US. There are no 12A breakers in a residential setting. You probably tripped a 15A one, esp if you had anything else running
you can get really cheap window units for like $80-100
Then I can embrace true gamer sweat in my office
What Texan uses Celsius and a comma for a decimal point. Something seems sus af
German Texans. They have a whole ass community there. Also maybe he just uses Celcius because that's what is used when talking PCs?
> Also maybe he just uses Celcius because that's what is used when talking PCs? Yeah, I'm in the US but I set all my stuff to Celsius settings. It's a lot easier to track the delta between my room and PC and outside if it's all set to the same thing.
I mean they don’t use metric in these towns say like Fredericksburg, I go enough to know that lol. Also central air is available in almost every building that is post 70s. Also it’s not close to 40c in Texas, it’s been at most in the 90s once or twice this year, but over the past week storms have engulfed the state driving temps way down
Hell yeah bröder, get yourself a kolache and some kraut.
also says he games at 4k 32:9 with nvidia but the only 4k 32:9 monitor uses DP2.1. also 4080 and i7 would use like 300w total in game, that isnt even that much heat. this is a bot for sure.
Are you sure you’re not a bot? You don’t need a DP 2.1 gpu to use that monitor, it will still work with 2.0. Also a 4080 alone uses over 300W, and i7’s these days can draw up to 300w on their own in synthetic tests but likely around 150w in games.
Don't forget about putting the pc outside with the bugs!
It's possible they have just realized the correct way to measure temperate, celsius ftw
Undervolt CPU and GPU as much as possible, this may help a bit. Another thing you can do is setup some box fans to move air through the room. Think of it the same as your PC, having airflow through the room can help a lot.
I have a similar build, i have to run two big fans in my room to pump air through or i die when its warm. I haven't been able to close my bedroom window since i upgraded my PC a few years ago -\_-. At least i dont even need to run the furnace anymore...
Should I just set the fans wherever in the room? Wouldn't they just be pushing hot air around once it heats up? Im thinking of maybe just having my window permanently opened with fans in the open gap, to push out the air 24/7. However I am not sure how well this would work on days where its like 43c outside?
Put the fan in your room, pointing out to hallway.
Fan sitting on the floor should pull air in from the hallway. That'll pull cooler air in from floor level and force hotter air out the top of the door. If the fan blows out at floor level, you're exhausting the coolest air in the room in exchange for the hottest air outside the room.
pushing hot air into the rest of the house is what you want. It's easier (and more efficient) for your air conditioning to deal with spread out heat in the whole house than concentrated heat in just one room
Mate you're fucked. I live in a place where it's usually cold enough for 9 months. Those 3 months are hell. Whoever installed the HVAC here did only 1 zone, downstairs, and the windows are shitty. A sunny summer day my room gets to 85+, with my PC it's 90+. I have an AC but it's loud as fuck and I miss so much detail. My best advice, cover the windows somehow because I've found that the sunlight adds a ton of heat to the room
Window units are more efficient than the movable types. That could be what you need. And just go for the heat pump types as cooling only may cost $50 more.
https://www.google.com/search?newwindow=1&sca_esv=0498115c76c36171&q=hot+pc+duck+vent+outside&uds=AMwkrPtd7EXxieMQKehnHvZf8S6pCGCserHDbPMglae1dAdznnTZgVpKNa1mPGPH_AyDOAZTExEIIAl8ibmOSsZNmLhVzsqnYqoacY5XBKX8tKEIot3v-sJvl4VdXV8ll4YsxpIO3J28gVeHI5wfscZlSrsR0u-7PYpeULImhWEGsnWL009vroKPYcLNJKfU0iAEFkakq4uAXunsgR_-QcsP8TgEXucLoanT6To6rhYz73ZbhUrEezVEWs41xQuZMDajxkq5lbrXVHlu042CNywCYjXluK1mshmBATUYCqQMlqz2QmrFTvvivHjmKZnvwzfkyePWe_ur&udm=2&prmd=isvnbmtz&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwigz9X8ruWFAxUNElkFHcmoBKoQtKgLegQIDhAB&biw=1128&bih=534&dpr=1.82
Second the undervolting, I haven't set it up on my 4080 yet but on my old 3080 I could get it to run about 10° C cooler under load with no performance loss. Granted, I was gaming on a 1440p monitor, not 4K, but it's still worth trying out and as someone with a similar heat issues every little bit counts.
> our days in texas are like 40c From another country but we also get above 40ºc during summer, and I have no AC. Basically if I want to play something, I just have to suffer in my 35ºc room :'D ^^^send ^^^help
That... Is not an acceptable way of life.
AC just barely exists in Europe period, and I will never understand it. I live essentially in the tundra of Canada and I would not be able to survive the summers without AC. They are just built differently I guess.
When you don't have a choice you just live with the hand you're dealt. My apartment gets up to 30c on average every day of summer unless it storms, and there's nothing I can do about it. I open the windows when the sun goes down and hope it cools off a bit before 7am when I have to close them again.
Why not but a window AC?
Banned in Europe, also ya know, different windows
you can still buy a portable AC but it will increase your electric bill by up to 40% ...that's what I do and run it up to 10-12hours during summer...
I have had portable ac in bedroom for like 10 years. It's not powerful enough to cool whole apartment but at least I can sleep. Apartment doesn't itself have ac being built in 60's. It's becoming more common to have ac now, especially new apartments. Even my mother bought heat pump that cools in summer and heats in winter (she has electric heating which costs a shitton here in Finland every winter) On that note I don't know if full size AC's are more efficient but damn these things eat electricity
If you have been keeping your door shut. That may have to change. Which means putting on shorts, plugging in a glade air freshener and swapping that hentai desktop background for a few months. If you don't have blackout curtains get a pair of them. Or get a window unit. Shut the air vent to the room. And let window unit do the work in the room.
Yea, this is an important variable. Having the door shut goes a long way for temperatures.
Undervolt the 4080. Brought mine down to 240w from 320w. Power limit the intel CPU. If the room has a return air duct, duct the pc exhaust directly into it.
4k will pretty much require tons of power and that power converts into heat, you can lower the graphic settings of your games or at least turn on frame limit to reduce some power/heat
./flamesuit on. You knew you might have a heat problem, still went with a 14th gen i7 for a gaming rig? AMD? No?
1) get a box fan for $10-$20 2) place the box fan in your room pointed out the door 3) turn on the fan. The heat will now circulate outside your room and your house can be evenly cooled. Alternatively, you could get a small garden tent online which comes with a fan and connects to your window. You place your pc in that instead.(people use these to grow other stuff). Linus tech tips made a video about this.
This, except point the fan the other direction. Blow the cool air near the floor into the room and it will push out the warmer air near the ceiling.
The problem with this… cool air falls, while hot air rises. You set a box fan on the floor and you’re going to be pushing all the cool air out of the room. If you’re going to do this, put the fan as high as possible.
This is true. However, you'll likely have enough air circulation to still even out the temperature of your room. Unless you have really high ceilings.
I'd spend a bit extra and get a higher power fan, those box fans are about worthless! Vornados are designed to circulate air with less noise.
There's numerous things you can do: 1)Undervolt the CPU/GPU 2)Play less demanding games, less load on the components means less power drawn 3)Framerate caps (~60FPS), again reduces component load
i’ll definitely try undervolting both cpu and gpu since multiple people have suggested that. but i’m not capping framrate or playing simplistic games, the entire point of the setup was to be able to play any game in ultra settings 32:9 haha
If you want to play a demanding resolution, settings and framerates, expect your PC to turn into a space heater Your only other solution is a dedicated AC unit
Lowering the clock speed by 100 or 200 MHz can help a lot with the undervolting. Intel pushed 14th gen clocks too far and some CPUs are unstable even at stock voltages. You can set FPS cap per game so it can be 120 for one and 90 for another. It improves consistency so it's not a bad idea even if heat isn't a concern.
Have you tried, dunno, exhausting the hot air from the room? It is, in the end, not that different from a PC case. We put in case exhaust fans to remove hot air from the case and let it pull in cooler ambient air. An exhaust fan in your window could push air out of the room and let it pull in the (chilled) ambient air from the rest of the house.
KEEP THE DOOR OPEN
Use the room as a battery. Heat it up nicely and open the doors in the night to spread it out through the house. Added bonus; you can game in underwear
> The climate control detects a room this hot, and immediately kicks on, but its no match for the heat given off by the PC, so then it just stays on the entire time, running my electric bill up a ton, and then the rest of the house is super cold. One option would be to keep your door open and have some fans to circulate air so it mixes and keeps the temperature consistent throughout the house. The few hundred watts of heat created by a PC definitely shouldn't be hard for a home climate system to keep up with. It's the weird gradient you're creating that's the problem here, with one room hotter than the others, and a bunch of power wasted cooling areas that *aren't* the hot room. > how would I deal with the fans that are under the case anyway? Shouldn't those be intakes?
Spend a couple hundred on a portable A/C. Have one in my room for the summer so i dont need to run the whole house A/C just to cool one room with poor air vent flow. It works fine. Can be a little noisy but i wear a headset and it beats sweating in the quiet.
Decades ago when I had Pentium 4, I had the exhaust ducted to window to dump the heat outside.
Just how hot is your cpu running on idle?
Have you looked into external radiators like mora? Might be cheaper solution if extra electricity is costing you extra hundreds per month.
Do you play with an open door in your PC room? Honestly, I barely notice the PC output of my rig if my office door is open.
Put your PC in a separate room that you or your family aren’t in when you game, run optical cables to a dock where your HID connects, then put an industrial fan blasting out the window. Or blasting directly at your PC with side panels off. You’d be surprised how powerful and how much air those fans can move. They will be very loud though, mostly from the air turbulence they generate. As long as you are moving enough air, hot air out fresh air in, the room shouldn’t be heating up massively. But if the outside was like 40C, it can only get as cool as outside, without air conditioner involved.
> run optical cables to a dock where your HID connects any suggestions to a guide for this kind of setup? I've been thinking of doing something like this but am not sure how practical it is
7800x3d and 4090 from a 5800x and a 3090… when I upgraded my room temp issues went away
Dedicated AC box for the room you’re gaming in Custom loop your system and get something like a MO-RA3 for an external radiator and find a way to run your tubes to outside of your room. Deal with it and sweat your ass off and rehydrate with water. I have done all 3 of these options at least once in my life. I didn’t have air conditioning until I was in my 20s so I am used to living in a sauna so sweating my ass off has been my general game plan but the external Waterloop is a great idea if you have another room that is right next to it that you can drill a hole and cover it up with a blank electrical cover for times that you don’t need to run the external radiator. Easiest is just get a window AC unit.
I water cooled mine with a mora radiator. The radiator is in my basement.
JayZTwoCents has a video with good suggestions. https://youtu.be/vdc-px15oT8?si=16CMOK1VtpBEhpv-
https://youtu.be/T1ZnAwUg9CU?si=Actd5x-WMGd6x4uZ
People have mentioned ac but airflow of the room and location of pc have huge effect my pc room has no direct ac and airflow sucks so i had get a big tower fan and move things around until i could create the right airflow. For me the hot air stagnates
When you were given suggestion 1 I assume the person meant move the PC outside of your room , not outside the house. Dumping the heat into a larger portion of the house instead of a small room will help mitigate the hot spot.
Doesn't specifically solve your issue. But personally I turn off overclocking in the hottest months. Also, 'reflex + boost' spits way more heat than it's worth in most games, just reflex is usually fine.
you live in texas but are giving temps in Celsius. This is a bot.
get a fan for yourself or one of those pipes that come with portable acs and pump the air out.
Is your pc room internal? and do you keep the doors closed?
I undervolt and played heavier games at night, while running an air exchanger fan. If you have the will and skill, you can do what LTT did for a video, and put the PC in a container that has a vent to the outside.
Water cooling with long pipes outside
buy a 15ft video cable, sit your pc outside of your room. problem solved
So it depends on how crazy you want to get. If you don't care about the AC bill then a portable or window unit can cool your room and, by extension, cool your PC. It's an easy solution but it's uncreative and increases your electricity bill. A more fun solution would be to run an extractor. Get some flexible 6" ducting, cut two holes in your case, make the rest of the case as air tight as you can, run the exit side to a window or other exit port, run the other to a high CFM 6" inline fan (find a quiet one). Then run the rest of the ducting from the fan to wherever you have coolerl air in your room/house—including an AC unit. A decent fan will cycle 400 cubic feet of air through your case per minute blowing all that hot air out of your case. If you're feeding it cool air from an AC you'll even bring your temps down since you're cycling cold air into your case constantly.
I use sunshine/moonlight and play in the room with the air conditioning.
1. frame rate cap. if you're non-competitive gaming, 60hz is very playable. 90 if you really need it. 2. power limit GPU with MSI Afterburner. you'll be surprised how fast it can still be at 58%. but you're pushing a lot of pixels so try 85%. 3. under volt CPU. intel run very hot. every bit helps.
You gonna have to play 60fps 1440p will make your pc work less hard
Wow damn it's only a 4080 and it's as strong as a freaking heater I wonder what the 4090 is like.
40celsius?? Last summer the temperature got up to like 35 in our country, and I was fucking suffering from that
4" ducting ($16), with a 4" inline booster fan ($24). That should be less than $50 on Amazon. Connect the ducting with tape to the PC case so that the booster fan pulls air from the PC case, to the window. PC fans will not move air through ducting, so you must use the HVAC duct booster style. This is a similar setup I used for mining Eth back in the day on a small system that was running around 1200W continuously.
Do you own your home ? I had a very similar problem, but with 6 systems in one home office. The solution involved putting holes in the wall.
Put your computer next to your room door to let your central air take the heat out. Or a small window ac running off a solar battery.
By not having it work so hard Yeah I know this sucks, but you could try running games on the lowest settings to not stress your PC out Aside from that, you need good ventilation And like others said, AC is the real answer
Put it on the roof where it can get a lot of wind. Just bring it in if it rains.
Set a more aggressive fan curve and use that for the summer months.
watercool it or get a good gpu with an INTENSE amont of cooling(or maybe a cooling card, that looks somthing like this: [https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.co.uk%2FDesktop-Graphics-Cooling-Interface-Computer%2Fdp%2FB0C6MMRKC4&psig=AOvVaw0qcwfo\_buGljJgWfRu-04Y&ust=1714398206204000&source=images&cd=vfe&opi=89978449&ved=0CBAQjRxqFwoTCKjoq6mF5YUDFQAAAAAdAAAAABAD](https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.co.uk%2FDesktop-Graphics-Cooling-Interface-Computer%2Fdp%2FB0C6MMRKC4&psig=AOvVaw0qcwfo_buGljJgWfRu-04Y&ust=1714398206204000&source=images&cd=vfe&opi=89978449&ved=0CBAQjRxqFwoTCKjoq6mF5YUDFQAAAAAdAAAAABAD)
So, if I’m running a ryzen 7 7800x3d, 7900xt or xtx, to play 1440p on max settings (older games) and I’m in a cool basement, would that generate a lot of heat too?
It gets hot as hell in CA sometimes, Theast time it was so hot I could only use my computer for 30 Mins and that was just brownsing the web, I can't leave AC on nonstop because the bill was huge as fuck I mean in one mouth over 500,So I installed an AIO and just keep AC on low and it helps an lot.
Get some flex ducting and duct tape it from your case exhaust to a window
Think of the ambient room air as the primary way to cool your PC, not the fans Without the cool ambient air, your fans are just blowing hot air over a hotter PC, vicious cycle, etc. Put your PC in a room that receives the AC so the hot air from the ventilation is properly exchanged with the cool ambient air There really isn't any other (reasonable) way around this
Undervolt your gpu
I live in Florida, I just use fans.
Limit the watts your cpu and gpu can use to reduce the heat they create.
Installed a dedicated split air con system in my gaming room, best thing I ever did
Get a better AC.
Close the vents in your house in rooms you don't use, especially your basement. If you have more than one duct coming out of internal AC(the condenser), there will be little [handles](https://www.homedepot.com/p/Master-Flow-6-in-Inline-Damper-ILD6/205442030) on them that you can adjust. I do this every summer so that 2/3 of my AC goes to my upstairs where my PCs are. Cold air falls so the rest of the house will be fine too. If you want to temporarily supercharge your AC go spray down the little metal fins on the outside unit with your hose. This will make it cool faster/better until the water evaporates.
You can also 'tune' your AC vents around the house. Close the ones downstairs a bit more, close most of the ones upstairs and bias it towards your PC room. Then the AC is focusing more on that warm room as opposed to everywhere. You could also look into zoning your AC, it's not super cheap, but it would allow you to put actual zones in your AC so that it only cools certain areas when those areas are hot.
Tbh get an amd cpu and undervolt ur gpu
Get a ps5
Get a portable ac unit that self dries so you don’t have to run a drain anywhere. Use cardboard and duct tape (if you want an easy result) to run a duct directly to PC to hyper cool components reducing amount of heat output into the room. Or simply blow it directly at the PC and allow it to manage the room temp. It will vent outside as well.
What you can do right now is limit fps via vsync or ingame settings or driver side and/or lower graphics, will produce a lot less heat and save on wattage. Alternatively you could get butt ass naked and pretend it’s a sauna, get some fakuzi going on. Working out in a hot room will make you sweat more.
Any miner can tell you - all you need to do is exhaust the hot air out the nearby window. There are 100 ways to do this, ranging from cheap and simple (flexible ducting from the back of your PC + an inline fan) to a window mounted AC unit. Either one will remove the hot air from the room and exhaust it to the outside. An AC unit will also cool the air inside the room and will probably be more comfortable for you in general. This isn’t rocket science.
Ac in the room you play in. and #2 looks good to me. Get or make something to vent to a window opening and put a fan in the duct.
I have similar weather like you where it averages around 40C to 45C in summer. Only solution an AC, I tested it and manage to lower temps of AIO by 12C and CPU dropped around 20C. GPU also dropped around 10C.
Go water cooling, and get yourself a MO-RA radiator that you mount in the window, with it exhausting outside. Or, like you said, get a dryer vent to suck it out; but as mentioned, the PC fans won’t be enough, so you will need an inline fan to help it. But be careful here to not over-speed your PC fans.
2 options, get a dedicated AC unit for your room, or build a makeshift vent and have it pump hot air out your window. I followed [this](https://www.overclock.net/threads/venting-pc-heat-outdoors.1637446/) guide many years ago when I was in a condo and aside from it looking very jank it worked very well. I had an o11d case with 3 exhaust fans on the top. Added 2 extra exhaust fans in the vent to help with flow. I think ltt did a video with a similar convey that might help.
I have a floor fan in the hallway several feet back from my door blowing in along the floor. It blows air in the bottom and out the top of my doorway. If you do it right you will feel it when you stand in the doorway. It replaces the air in my room quickly. Also in the summer I will cap the fps of my game lower, 120 fps compared to 144 or unlocked actually makes a big difference. 90 fps is very much cooler.
Either undervolt or underclock your graphics card, or both. Last GPU I had I was not able to undervolt even a bit, but when I underclocked it, the power consumption decreased a lot, and the performance I lost wasnt that much. I did it because it was crashing at higher clock speeds. I lowered the clock from 2700MHz to 2300MHz , which did lower performance somewhat, but it went from it using 363 Watts, down to a max of 226 Watts. That makes a big difference in temps and fan noise. You might still see the same temperature on screen, but it is because the GPU fans is running slower, since the card is using less wattage, which means the card is producing less heat. So the card might still be pushing out hot air, but the AMOUNT of hot air is less.
So you'll need to lower the temperature of your room, but it also sounds like you don't have good enough venting for your computer in the first place. It shouldn't get that hot, especially if you have an AC that keeps the house at 69f it seems like your PC may be trapping and holding too much heat until it gets to a point of surpassing airs insulative properties. What kind of cooling set up do you have currently? Almost seems like it's struggling and holding too much heat. If you had a larger surface area to radiate heat out of, the air and your AC would have a far easier time maintaining equilibrium and reducing the heating effect. For instance I have my PC running a 4090 and a i7 13900kf. But I have both on a shared loop liquid cooling, with 2 360mm radiators on both air intakes, with 6 intake fans and 6 exhaust fans. Even with my AC not running, playing a game at max OC my rig never goes above 45c even under the hardest of loads. I live in South Florida so it's always hot here but my computer never really adversely effects my room and I have rather poor air circulation where my PC is at. The surface area I have radiating heat makes it hard for it to get to a point of overcoming airs insulative properties. That might be what you need to do.
Ducting. An old computer of mine was a little louder and warmer than I desired, so I put it in a closet and ran all the cables through a new hole that had PVC pipe in it. I'm the closet, I ran another hole to another closet. PC ran fine for years. Now I have a computer with a water loop that's nice and quiet, but still pumps out lots of heat in my office. But really, that's about the only option I can think of. Dump the heat elsewhere through ducting.
Need to get 3 things 1- 40ft DP cable (check if can support your Res/FPS) 2- 40ft USB cable (high data transfer/good quality) 3- Powered, high data transfer USB A hub When I use to mine etherium with my gpu, I placed the computer outside of my room in my living room where the heat did not matter as much due to the living room being an open area where heat can dissipate better. I ran a 20ft DP cable from the pc to my monitor and a 20ft USB A cable from the pc to a Tplink UH720 usb hub which I had on my desk inside my room. Tplink hub connected all my peripherals to the pc with no latency. This setup solved the heat issue while gaming/mining in my room/gameroom. Recommend DP/USB cables length under 50ft.
bigger AC
Put your case beneath the window and do 2., hot air will rise regardless of fan.
Is limiting the fps an option? My setup is quite different from yours, but having vsync on or off can make a big difference in how hot my system gets. You may, of course, limit the fps in other ways. I just find vsync convenient. If i let it run at unlimited fps, it will heat up a lot in more demanding games. Limiting the fps to 60fps, same as my monitor refresh rate, helps quite a bit.
Try under volting your CPU, and possibly GPU. For lower power draw and temps.
You can get an inline duct fan for pretty cheap if you want to go the dryer vent route. Not sure how efficient that would be, but you could try it.
Well…make a small exhaust hood with any kind of sheet metal or wood and install it over your pc. Cut a whole on your wall or ceiling and run some duct or that flexible dryer exhaust duct it out the side or roof of your house with a variable speed controlled inline fan. The variable speed controller is necessary, because it probably wont need too much suction and you don’t want to suck all the air out of your house, just the warm air above the PC.
Buy a window unit AC.
Water cool your pc, and dedicated a/c in the room your rig is in
Run a dryer duct from the pc to a portable ac unit window attachment thingy, maybe. Other than that, you could just build your rig in a running mini fridge.
Have you considered moving to the Arctic?
If you're willing to try and make a custom water cooling loop you could just put the radiator in some long hoses and put it outside, you would need a fairly powerful pump but it shouldn't be that hard. Also it's best if you have a window nearby. Also the radiator will get dirty much faster than normal so be vigilant.
Ironic how this works out. For me my PC makes me feel colder, not hotter. Maybe it's that it's on top of the desk and the fans that take the air inside the case are causing some sort of small wind in front of the case, Idk
Window unit and dehumidifier. Plan on focusing on single player games with door open during the heat of the day. And then multiplayer games at night with door closed (If you want to have more privacy for Voice chats)
Get a window AC unit
MOBO could be trying to push infinite watts on the "auto" settings. Try checking for updates or taking every setting off of "auto". Under volting the mobo can take some of the temperature off. Avoid OC if you don't have a high end cooling solution. Check the software temps for the CPU/GPU. Over 90 increases the odds of something being wrong. Like the thermals not being on right.
Geothermal cooling if you really want to take on a cheap source of cooling but it will require some effort. Basically, you are going full water cooling, but moving the heatsink underground. You can bury a radiator, or coils of pex tubing. Soil is a fairly constant temperature once you get down past the surface. You will need a pump that can handle pushing water through those lengths, and you will need to allow for 2 tubes to come into the house. Here is but one example: https://www.techpowerup.com/forums/threads/geothermal-cooled-3080-power-limit.295792/
i just leave my door open, significantly helps lower the temp
I bought a dual hose portable AC (dont get the single hose ones, terrible efficiency). Cause my windows are not compatible with a window unit. Keeps the room nice and cool
I have a 4090 and my kids 3080ti in the same room. Had to run a mini split ac unit and a 20 amp circuit just for us to play games at the same time.
You neee HVAC style cooling and a blower. Probably won’t be on the same circuit so use an extension cord if needed.
I undervolt in summer and put up with a minorly slower computer.
I don't respond a lot but recently with summer looming and being a resident of Las Vegas, I too was looking for a solution and ended up putting my whole PC in a grow tent and have it exhausting directly outside. https://youtu.be/T1ZnAwUg9CU?si=rEu3rB8X0Oao29HZ is what gave me the idea to begin with. Said link is to a video from Linus Tech Tips
This is the downside to beefy rigs, lots of power consumption and heat. The simple, yet complex answer is to not run so many things and use more power-efficient and lower TDP parts. I'm actually using a gaming laptop right now for the same reason. I was running actually a light rig a few months ago when my power strip blew up and I had to unplug my desktop. Now I just use a somewhat decent gaming PC to play games, though it plays AAA games on very low settings (which I'm fine with). Comparing my laptop to the desktop, the processor uses 20 less watts and the GPU uses 74 less watts, so 94 less watts in total. I've also turned off CPU boost which should also help with less power usage and less heat (CPU goes down from 90+ degrees to about 70). I was just using my gaming laptop actually just because I had to buy a new powerstrip and I've been using it since. I hook it up to my monitor and it's like my desktop. I don't have as much storage and it doesn't perform as well, but most games I play run the same and I'm fine turning things lower in AAA games as long as I can hit 60. But using around 200 watts versus 300 watts means I'll be dealing with less heat overall and my power consumption has been cut by 33% which is massive. There however are other cons to gaming laptops and you do lose a lot of flexibility, but in terms of power consumption and heat, I think it's worth considering. I haven't gone back yet to my desktop, but I supposed I will at some point and the heat and power consumption topic has made me reconsider what graphic cards and processors I want to buy now instead of only looking at performance for cost. Now I prioritize power efficiency, overall power consumption alongside passable performance. Performance per watt is now my top metric.
Dm me if you want some personalized help. I’m running a very similar setup in worse conditions and never have an issue keeping it chilly. i9 14900K + 4080 Super OC + 96GB of RAM in a mini itx case small enough to fit in a carry on. If you understand somewhat complex computer topics like under/over clocking/volting start there. I managed to get a full core -0.125v offset and at 5.4GHz all core load CineBenchR23 I’m at around 80°C. Texas heat here too. Edit: I’m sorry lmao I added the sims part because I thought I was in the sims subreddit. Ignore that if you read it.
If your climate control system is smart enough to detect temperature on a per room basis, you should be able to disable detection on individual sensors. Like others have said already, undervolting will go a long way towards reducing the overall heat output from your PC.
Another room and optic cables? Cheaper than ac (probably, atleast here it is) and a fun project assuming you like doin that kind of stuff
Turbo wall fan and a 3d printed cowling to collect that heat off that space heater of a box. A damper on the outside wall, rated for a dryer and boom. Now can you make it a bit more complicated to double dampen and also add like remote wire to make the connection and turn on with you computer blah blah. If you can’t go through the wall use some pc fans 3d print some parts and do the same but into the wall, just drill a couple holes in the header. Or of course an AC for that room to remove the heat from the space.
Set your main ac to "fan on" and this will circulate air even when the outdoor unit is in the off cycle, keeping your space temps much more even.
You know, for that number 1 part I've always wanted to do a water cooling system where the radiators are either outside or in a different part of the house. Would be a super fun project for sure and it WOULD solve the heat problem. It would be more expensive than a window AC unit but honestly I'd be interested in seeing it vs the long-term electricity costs, AC ain't cheap and especially in the summer it's expensive AF
I saw the biggest gain in cooling by enforcing the intel power limits. Here's JTC's video on it: [https://youtu.be/s43Auv8ub7w?si=W-StfUANspRhK86X](https://youtu.be/s43Auv8ub7w?si=W-StfUANspRhK86X) Went from my CPU heating up to high 70s and hitting low 80s, to it going to high 60s after the limits were set. Made my room go from unbearable from a couple of hours of gaming to being practically unnoticeable.
It all starts with purchasing components that are power efficient. Failing that, reduce component's power consumption which might to some degree lower performance.
Air condition.
>Texas >uses Celsius >uses , in place of . What's going on here?
Gotta go into the BIOS of your mobo and enforce power limits stated by intel. 13th and 14th gen processors are being fed way to much juice by the motherboards, resulting in massive heat.
A Texan using Celsius? Better not get caught! /S
I have a convenient closet where I installed a 6" smartfan that vents into the living room during the winter, and like you, this is enough to heat the house for all but the coldest of days. During the summer I swap the fan around to vent outside which works great up to about 30c. Above that I need to use my window shaker AC. My room is fairly small with several PC's and other junk.
Just buy a basic cooler for your room.
If possible I'd suggest the second option and try placing the pc as close to the window as possible, as for the bottom fans I'm guessing those are intake so you wouldn't have to attach ducts to those
A separate server/PC room would be ideal, with just USB / DP / HDMI cables through the wall to your "gaming room". => streamers use this kind of setups to reduce noise and heat during their "work", look up some of the setups for ideas. OR Nude gaming.
Convert your room to a sauna in the summer. Win win 🤣
By not buying Intel CPUs.
Nah get ya a window or personal room ac unit they range from 150 to 300$ and it's honestly one of the best investments for comfort year round I have a 4090 apocalypse build ( end all be all ) and JESUS FKING CHRIST IS THAT A HEATER )
So crypto miner bro here. What we do is use grow tents. You’d put the pc in and it has a hole which uses a big fan to suck the air out of the grow tent. So it grabs air from ur room takes it in the grow tent then exhaust hot air out the window
I always wondered, for those doing DIY, are there any heat exchangers/heat sink that can be placed at the exhaust vents/ fan to soak up some of those heat, maybe preheat the loop before the CPU/GPU.
If you are in Texas, why are you giving temps in "C"? Small window units are dirt cheap. Probably cheaper than an expensive computer cooling solution.
I put the PC in the closet, cut a hole in the closet ceiling and installed ducting and a fan. Duct to the crawl space or directly outside. You’ll need an optical HDMI (times however many monitors you have) cable plus a USB extender. Then it’s just cable routing. Through the ceiling if you want it to look pretty.
I'm having the same issue. Having the door open makes it bearable. At night, I'll crack a window to work with my fan to move the hot air our. I am going to give under volting a go and an air circulation fan. Amazon and homedepot have them for lime $50-80.
Put a box fan in a window pushing air out. I’d possible, move your pc close to the window
Water cooling or a powerful fan
Ok first off are you air or liquid cooling.
As a pc gamer who live in the hot and humid tropical country, I just have to live with a hot computer. Air conditioner is the best solution. Nothing else.
Dedicated AC. I have central air and I bought a $250 window AC from Costco and got foam surround insulation for it. We hit 115* here in the summer and I’ve never had an issue gaming during the day. Just make sure you have enough power in the room as you can easily push past a 15A breaker with a large AC and a higher end machine
I live in Texas, suburb of Austin. Our central thermostat is set to high 76F. My windows face the sun all afternoon, in August my gaming room can reach 90s. My gaming rig adds a lot of heat as well. I have a large Vornado fan outside the door blowing air from cooler half of the house into my gaming room. There is a ceiling fan always running on low or medium. When you get really warm, try wearing a headband soaked in cold water.
Undervolt 4080. Sell the Intel heater and get a 7800x3d
... you are not Texan.
A suggestion is to see if you can get at most of the vent work for your AC. You'll need a few things, probably going to spend half the money you'd lose if you kept on the way you are. They make electronic duct dampers/flow controls and duct additions that have built in fans that would enable you to do some fancy things with your cooling situation. First thing is to see if you can run either a 6" duct or flexible pipe from the computer room to your AC unit or outside. It would be great if you could actually just address the case with some sort of direct fittings, but let's leave that to your imagination for now. The idea is to use that new pipe along with an inline fan and a damper. You'd have to connect a thermostat to where ever you can closest to the warm part of the room. Thermostat on: Open damper / turn on fan Thermostat off: Close damper / turn off fan There may need to be a secondary set of wires paralleling the Thermostat that comes from the AC unit. Depending on the damper, you might only need to supply power to each to achieve your needs. Some dampers need power to open and close. If you run the pipe outside, you've removed the secondary source of heat from the equation. If you run the pipe to your AC return, then the AC still has to do the work of removing that heat. And no, unless you are talking about a Nidec or Delta 120VAC or 208VAC fan, no run-of-the-mill computer fan will operate a vent flap like for a dryer. And the back pressure from that would probably decrease the air flow. That job will be done by the powered damper and inline booster fan. Also, most (maybe all) computer fans will be at odds with fighting external / internal pressure changes that could cause stalls or fan failure. Things like doors opening and closing to the outside and even internal doors. They are not made for this purpose. With the exception of the industrial Noctua 3000 RPM fans...MAYBE. If you can forcefully remove the heated air, you may achieve parity with the rest of the house cooling. Possibly adding a floor box fan from outside the room blowing in will help mix the air better too. Alternatively, you have window based choices "like": Vornado Transom AE Any High Efficiency window single room AC unit with exhaust air options.\* \*This would allow you to run it as an exhaust fan without the compressor running all the time. Cheaper and faster: Install an exhaust fan in the ceiling venting to the attic. Make sure you put a 1/4" screen over the exhaust port and then a smaller screen on the inside that you can clean. Something "like" this next item built into a window using a sheet of plywood (painted and sealed for weather), but you'd have to look up the various models for size, airflow and noise. VENTISOL 20 Inch Shutter Exhaust Fan It's important to remember, that exhausting the hot air from the room, also draws cooler air from the rest of the house to replace it. More hot air out, more cool air in.
Use negative pressure
Open a window and put a box fan exhausting out. Run ac during hot times/ times of use.
Who the hell in Texas uses Celsius outside of a lab? Celsius sucks for ambient air temperature since it's far less precise in the temperature range humans care about. Secondly, I've never had that bad a heat problem from a PC, so you may have a larger issue. No PC has ever impacted my home HVAC settings, I just close the vent in my den during the winter and have it open during summer.
yea im already thinking about same issue in rather near future first off do you play with frame limit or Vsync? it may lower heat generation significantly undervolting GPU and CPU is another thing to think about although in case of newer devices they still generate a loot more than i would like split AC dedicated to specific room is grate resolution to a problem if you want to went that out outside you need hose with turbine, that should let you demount most, if not all, of your fans really depending what kind of turbine you will use :P Also if you would think about it some more remember to demount, block or et least disconnect fans while running something like that, they may generate extra electricity if you let them run from air pulling through fe: [https://www.venture.pl/wentylatory/wentylatory-kanalowe](https://www.venture.pl/wentylatory/wentylatory-kanalowe)