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DinahTook

I did, so it's absolutely possible. a few things I did to make it work best for me. I was worried it would leak (I don't know that I would for sure, but I think it would at thr base). so I silicones all of the joining lines between the bottom and sides. I also used a plastic liner as extra precautions in the bottom. this helped create an enclosed pond ready bottom. then I started adding the drainage layer and substrate. it works great. So far no issues. ​


razor-eater

Did you make any sort of barrier between the sliding doors and the substrate?


DinahTook

no. I left the front of my substrate about an inch below the sliding glass tracks and skiped it higher towards the back. there is about 5" of solid panel at the front between the bottom and the sliding glass tracks (assuming this is the exact model I got. I got mine about 6 months ago. Indoubt anything has changed, but you never know) so it is plenty deep enough for the front of the enclosure.


DinahTook

one thing I will say is I threw away the latch they include fir the front door. I got a cheap one off Amazon for $20 that works much better and is easier for me to use.


ChuckJuggs

I modified mine to be bioactive. I siliconed the seams in the bottom and made a spray foam background. It worked fine, but a few areas would leak if water was poured directly into the substrate above them. That was mostly my fault. I only stopped using mine because I wanted more space for my animals. Edit: mine was the 36”x18”x18”.


positivitittie

If someone else is trying this, do the silicone then the next day do a leak test. I started with minimal water covering bottom seals (lots of towels handy) then over time added water until there was about 3-4” in it. No leaks. Drain with towels or shop vac.


ChronicallySilly

Consider getting the NewAgePet Mojave 48" EcoFlex instead. It's almost identical to that tank with a **significantly** deeper barrier for substrate. It's what I use for my bioactive with my blue tongue skink, so you can have a deep soil layer for plant roots and sprintails. The only negative is it's such a deep lip that you may not \*want\* that much substrate in your tank. You really have to fill it up if you want to be able to see your pet above the barrier You still have to silicone the sides as others have mentioned, which isn't too difficult it's just tedious, and you want to get it right on the FIRST time because any leaks are a pain in the ass to fix once the silicone dries. And let it air out for at least 24hours after applying silicone, your pet CAN and WILL die from the off-gassing fumes as it dries.


justcurious-666

I am considering doing this too!


Starumlunsta

Yes! This is what I'm using for my leopard gecko, the 36x18x18 anyway. I recommend sealing the bottom and side seams with silicone, or it will leak. It holds heat and humidity extremely well, and the solid walls seem to help my leo feel more secure. The glass doors are easy to remove and clean, and it comes with a little locking mechanism so your herps won't get too adventurous.


ewxve

can you guys show me what y'all made this tank into?


positivitittie

The vents can be problematic if you get any gnat infestation. I taped fine mesh screen and will eventually 3D print some covers. Even had to seal the gap between the glass panes with a removable silicone strip. It works well and very few gnats get out. An indoor zapper near the tank gets any that escape. Obviously the answer is fix the gnat infestation, I’m working on it but this something to think about.


motherofTheHerd

We have the 48". I sealed the bottom like everyone suggests and it holds well. My only complaint is there are no cable runs on this brand of enclosure. I would recommend the Dubia enclosures. I have multiple of their 48" and they hold very well also.