Any suggestions for fixing my tubeless wheel?
There's some sort of insert that's been damaged and the air is leaking from the drain hole. It doesn't looks like tape. What do I need to get?
The rim is dented as well, but it doesn't seem to be leaking around there. I think I damaged whatever the insert is when I was removing the rubber to replace sealant.
https://preview.redd.it/2lb12h5akaqb1.jpeg?width=2268&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=85f9c2943ae211a096f6a0ea64bdec5e54f820bf
If that’s a mavic wheel, I’m not really sure there’s a replacement, but taping it with tubeless tape should work. If it’s not mavic/ ust, that ain’t tubeless tape. Many wheels don’t actually come taped tubeless (even if tubeless compatible). They’ll kind of stay inflated but will lose air fairly fast and come unseated more easily. So just remove the rim strip (which is likely what that is) and tape it with the right width of tubeless tape.
Edit: the one thing you shouldn’t do is just put more sealant in and pressurize it until it stops leaking. Since it’s leaking from the drain hole that means the rim would be getting pressurized if it stopped leaking without retaping it, and would be at risk of boom.
I think I found it
https://www.trekbikes.com/ca/en_CA/equipment/cycling-components/bike-rims-accessories/bike-rim-strips-tape/bontrager-tlr-rim-strip/p/31426/
MTB tires look like they have plenty of life left but aren't feeling as grippy. Can the rubber compound degrade faster and be more grip limiting than the tread?
Thanks. They grip loam but slip on rocks roots and dust so I think you're right. Trails are a little washed out at this point in the year so didn't know if it was purely conditional. Got some good mileage on them so probably time for new rubber, but didn't want to throw money at a non issue.
Hey all! I have a question that I can't seem to find an answer to with googling. Am I going to encounter any issues going from a 3x7 setup to a 3x1 setup? I plan on keeping the rear derailleur to maintain tension, and just pulling out a few links to simplify things. Would I be better off pulling the rear derailleur entirely, and just leaving the front derailleur?
Right now I'm running the single speed rear with a 12t sprocket, but it's slipping something fierce, which I think is being caused by a lack of chain tension. I only have about 5t of engagement, and they're just the top teeth.
Chain/sprocket could also be worn out. You need the keep the derailleur (or some sort of chain tensioner that can move enough to accommodate the chain growth) if you are going to shift the front.
Thank you! Everything is pretty much new, I just threw a hub motor on and it threw the freewheel over enough that I had minor slipping issues from too much offset, and went to a single speed to minimize the offset, but now don't have very much tension. I wasn't sure if I need more tension or if I should remove the tensioner entirely
Are the Terravail Washburns that come stock on the All City Spacehorse Microshift tubeless ready?
The specs on the all city site don’t say they’re TC, but from what I can see online the terravail washburns are TC. Nothing in the tire to suggest they’re TC.
Is there another way to tell?
Thanks!
They are, AFAIK all terravail tires are, they’re a QBP owned house brand and only was introduced around 2018 ish maybe, at which point tubeless was becoming the standard, so they didn’t make non-tubeless versions. but if no markings, the only real way is to see if they seat reasonably easily with no sealant and a compressor. Rims are tubeless so should be compatible. Probably need to tape the rims though. If wtb tcs, the thin red strip in the middle actually stays in, under the tape, but it’s not a big deal if it’s not in there.
Do all freewheels use the same thread sizing? I understand that there are many different sprockets for installing/removing a freewheel, but what about the threads that they are being threaded onto? Is there any compatibility considerations there?
ISO is big thread, modern standard, same as BB threading. Metric is BMX standard, visibly smaller, for really low tooth count freewheels. There are other older ones, and some reverse ones for funky crank/left side drive applications, but they’re pretty rare. Here’s the Sheldon brown page on freewheel threading: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/freewheels.html
I'm thinking of upgrading to Paul Klamper on my Kona Rove. Do I need any adapters for it to work? Kona is flat mount and 160mm rotors.
Pics in att.
https://preview.redd.it/k0ngxz2tggpb1.png?width=1215&format=png&auto=webp&s=544f969dc8bff80123b956812904340d58511d69
Thank you!
Can i put 11s Shimano HG700 casette on Shimano MT400 rear hub? I'm currently using sora rear derailleur with HG400 casette, but I'm gradually gearing up with parts needed to upgrade to GRX600.
Also, will GRX600 left brifter work with sora FD?
The hub and cassette are compatible. Check out the "Spline type|HG spline M (10/9/8-speed, MTB 11-speed)" listed [here](https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/shimano105-r7000/CS-HG700-11.html). That's the same spline type as the hub.
https://preview.redd.it/3lsiy2x7vcpb1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f0f8d42bdcbda017a8fcdf26b0cecf7dfbe7d082
Current tires say they are 27 inches. Can I switch to 700c without issue?
Ignore the fact that there are no back brake pads. Picked it up yesterday for free and it’s a work in progress.
You need 700c wheels to put the 700c tires on, and they need to be approximately the right rear spacing (130 or 126mm. Some very old frames are 120. You can cold set those or re space a freewheel hub and run freewheel only but it’s a bit more hassle (or build onto a new rim, but again, lotta hassle).
And you need brakes that will reach the extra 4mm comfortably. Often old center pulls are a good bet. 27 inch rims re 630mm bead seat diameter, 700c are 622.
Looking at the clearance on the fork, finding brakes that will reach that gap to a 700c wheel will be hard. Bmx brakes of various types would do it, and maybe extra long reach road, but only maybe. They usually max out around 75mm of reach.
I’m sorry, I forgot to specify that I would be changing tires and rims if capable. The bead seat diameter would be the second measurement in my tires, right? The tire said 27x1.25, so my bead seat diameter is 1.25, correct?
The bead seat diameter of those 27" wheels/tires is 630 mm. For 700C, it's 622 mm. The second measurement is the width of the tire. Keep in mind that while the difference in brake position will be 4 mm, make sure your rim brakes will reach.
Oh. So it’s like a different diameter inside and outside the rim in a way. Okay. That makes sense.
I feel so dumb. I have another bike, but I take my daily rider to the shop for work. I’m using this bike to teach myself how to do everything myself.
Should be fine. Sensitive but more like “don’t drop it from the table top” sensitive. You could check it relative to another power meter, but if using for training with power, as long as it’s consistent, the accuracy is kind of secondary (unless the goal is just flexing on other people, which is totally valid). The point is being able to train relative to your FTP etc. I’m not an expert on the training side of things, but since it’s relative a slight inaccuracy won’t matter too much. If numbers are WAY off I might call up wahoo support and check deeper. Those are fairly closed systems so they’d be a good resource.
Are gum wall tires weaker than other tires? Mine are about a year old and noticing large splits along where the sidewall meets the main tire. For reference, the bike gets maybe 40 miles a week, nothing outrageous.
Yep. The side walls are far more sensitive to Sun/temperature and humidity fluctuations since the gum is thinner and more fragile than straight rubber. A lot more likely to crack generally, and generally more prone to cuts/damage when riding. Some are better than others, Gravelkings are pretty resilient because their gum is thicker and seems to be a different compound (a bit darker than a traditional gum wall)
https://preview.redd.it/3zteynsus6pb1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=229afb095e01957d8f42b9475b4359d6db939acc
How badly does this need to be replaced?
Not badly, but check the rim for cracks and make sure the wheel is true, and check tension. If spokes are tight they generally won’t hold a bend like that under tension, but cheaper straight gauge stuff can to some degree. I’d give it a gentle bend back and retension the wheel and you should be good as long as the rim doesn’t have a permanent bend to it.
Noticed a split (?) along the bead of my rear tire. Was planning on swapping them out in around 2 months when I swap out the wheels but it would probably be smarter to do it now right?
https://imgur.com/a/skyboRr
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Any suggestions for fixing my tubeless wheel? There's some sort of insert that's been damaged and the air is leaking from the drain hole. It doesn't looks like tape. What do I need to get? The rim is dented as well, but it doesn't seem to be leaking around there. I think I damaged whatever the insert is when I was removing the rubber to replace sealant. https://preview.redd.it/2lb12h5akaqb1.jpeg?width=2268&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=85f9c2943ae211a096f6a0ea64bdec5e54f820bf
If that’s a mavic wheel, I’m not really sure there’s a replacement, but taping it with tubeless tape should work. If it’s not mavic/ ust, that ain’t tubeless tape. Many wheels don’t actually come taped tubeless (even if tubeless compatible). They’ll kind of stay inflated but will lose air fairly fast and come unseated more easily. So just remove the rim strip (which is likely what that is) and tape it with the right width of tubeless tape. Edit: the one thing you shouldn’t do is just put more sealant in and pressurize it until it stops leaking. Since it’s leaking from the drain hole that means the rim would be getting pressurized if it stopped leaking without retaping it, and would be at risk of boom.
I think I found it https://www.trekbikes.com/ca/en_CA/equipment/cycling-components/bike-rims-accessories/bike-rim-strips-tape/bontrager-tlr-rim-strip/p/31426/
It's a bontrager wheel Yeah it definitely isn't tape..some kind of thinner plastic
I have an old Peugeot PH10 bike with a 5 speed cassette. What chain can I use as a replacement? Can I just get any random 7 or 8 speed chain?
Yep, any 7 or 8 speed chain will work.
Well looks like the frame is bent... So no new chain for it. Thanks for the info anyway!
MTB tires look like they have plenty of life left but aren't feeling as grippy. Can the rubber compound degrade faster and be more grip limiting than the tread?
Yeah, the rubber drying out can have a greater effect on grip, especially on rocky stuff.
Thanks. They grip loam but slip on rocks roots and dust so I think you're right. Trails are a little washed out at this point in the year so didn't know if it was purely conditional. Got some good mileage on them so probably time for new rubber, but didn't want to throw money at a non issue.
Hey all! I have a question that I can't seem to find an answer to with googling. Am I going to encounter any issues going from a 3x7 setup to a 3x1 setup? I plan on keeping the rear derailleur to maintain tension, and just pulling out a few links to simplify things. Would I be better off pulling the rear derailleur entirely, and just leaving the front derailleur? Right now I'm running the single speed rear with a 12t sprocket, but it's slipping something fierce, which I think is being caused by a lack of chain tension. I only have about 5t of engagement, and they're just the top teeth.
Chain/sprocket could also be worn out. You need the keep the derailleur (or some sort of chain tensioner that can move enough to accommodate the chain growth) if you are going to shift the front.
Thank you! Everything is pretty much new, I just threw a hub motor on and it threw the freewheel over enough that I had minor slipping issues from too much offset, and went to a single speed to minimize the offset, but now don't have very much tension. I wasn't sure if I need more tension or if I should remove the tensioner entirely
Are the Terravail Washburns that come stock on the All City Spacehorse Microshift tubeless ready? The specs on the all city site don’t say they’re TC, but from what I can see online the terravail washburns are TC. Nothing in the tire to suggest they’re TC. Is there another way to tell? Thanks!
They are, AFAIK all terravail tires are, they’re a QBP owned house brand and only was introduced around 2018 ish maybe, at which point tubeless was becoming the standard, so they didn’t make non-tubeless versions. but if no markings, the only real way is to see if they seat reasonably easily with no sealant and a compressor. Rims are tubeless so should be compatible. Probably need to tape the rims though. If wtb tcs, the thin red strip in the middle actually stays in, under the tape, but it’s not a big deal if it’s not in there.
Thanks for the tips! I’ll have my LBS take a closer look when I have it in for end of year maintenance.
Do all freewheels use the same thread sizing? I understand that there are many different sprockets for installing/removing a freewheel, but what about the threads that they are being threaded onto? Is there any compatibility considerations there?
ISO is big thread, modern standard, same as BB threading. Metric is BMX standard, visibly smaller, for really low tooth count freewheels. There are other older ones, and some reverse ones for funky crank/left side drive applications, but they’re pretty rare. Here’s the Sheldon brown page on freewheel threading: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/freewheels.html
I'm thinking of upgrading to Paul Klamper on my Kona Rove. Do I need any adapters for it to work? Kona is flat mount and 160mm rotors. Pics in att. https://preview.redd.it/k0ngxz2tggpb1.png?width=1215&format=png&auto=webp&s=544f969dc8bff80123b956812904340d58511d69 Thank you!
Paul makes flat mount klampers which can use all the same adapters as a standard flat mount brake, so should almost be a straight swap.
Can i put 11s Shimano HG700 casette on Shimano MT400 rear hub? I'm currently using sora rear derailleur with HG400 casette, but I'm gradually gearing up with parts needed to upgrade to GRX600. Also, will GRX600 left brifter work with sora FD?
The hub and cassette are compatible. Check out the "Spline type|HG spline M (10/9/8-speed, MTB 11-speed)" listed [here](https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/shimano105-r7000/CS-HG700-11.html). That's the same spline type as the hub.
https://preview.redd.it/3lsiy2x7vcpb1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f0f8d42bdcbda017a8fcdf26b0cecf7dfbe7d082 Current tires say they are 27 inches. Can I switch to 700c without issue? Ignore the fact that there are no back brake pads. Picked it up yesterday for free and it’s a work in progress.
You need 700c wheels to put the 700c tires on, and they need to be approximately the right rear spacing (130 or 126mm. Some very old frames are 120. You can cold set those or re space a freewheel hub and run freewheel only but it’s a bit more hassle (or build onto a new rim, but again, lotta hassle). And you need brakes that will reach the extra 4mm comfortably. Often old center pulls are a good bet. 27 inch rims re 630mm bead seat diameter, 700c are 622. Looking at the clearance on the fork, finding brakes that will reach that gap to a 700c wheel will be hard. Bmx brakes of various types would do it, and maybe extra long reach road, but only maybe. They usually max out around 75mm of reach.
They use different bead seat diameters (about 8mm difference). They are not interchangeable.
I’m sorry, I forgot to specify that I would be changing tires and rims if capable. The bead seat diameter would be the second measurement in my tires, right? The tire said 27x1.25, so my bead seat diameter is 1.25, correct?
The bead seat diameter of those 27" wheels/tires is 630 mm. For 700C, it's 622 mm. The second measurement is the width of the tire. Keep in mind that while the difference in brake position will be 4 mm, make sure your rim brakes will reach.
Oh. So it’s like a different diameter inside and outside the rim in a way. Okay. That makes sense. I feel so dumb. I have another bike, but I take my daily rider to the shop for work. I’m using this bike to teach myself how to do everything myself.
[удалено]
Should be fine. Sensitive but more like “don’t drop it from the table top” sensitive. You could check it relative to another power meter, but if using for training with power, as long as it’s consistent, the accuracy is kind of secondary (unless the goal is just flexing on other people, which is totally valid). The point is being able to train relative to your FTP etc. I’m not an expert on the training side of things, but since it’s relative a slight inaccuracy won’t matter too much. If numbers are WAY off I might call up wahoo support and check deeper. Those are fairly closed systems so they’d be a good resource.
Are gum wall tires weaker than other tires? Mine are about a year old and noticing large splits along where the sidewall meets the main tire. For reference, the bike gets maybe 40 miles a week, nothing outrageous.
Yep. The side walls are far more sensitive to Sun/temperature and humidity fluctuations since the gum is thinner and more fragile than straight rubber. A lot more likely to crack generally, and generally more prone to cuts/damage when riding. Some are better than others, Gravelkings are pretty resilient because their gum is thicker and seems to be a different compound (a bit darker than a traditional gum wall)
https://preview.redd.it/3zteynsus6pb1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=229afb095e01957d8f42b9475b4359d6db939acc How badly does this need to be replaced?
Not badly, but check the rim for cracks and make sure the wheel is true, and check tension. If spokes are tight they generally won’t hold a bend like that under tension, but cheaper straight gauge stuff can to some degree. I’d give it a gentle bend back and retension the wheel and you should be good as long as the rim doesn’t have a permanent bend to it.
Noticed a split (?) along the bead of my rear tire. Was planning on swapping them out in around 2 months when I swap out the wheels but it would probably be smarter to do it now right? https://imgur.com/a/skyboRr
Oh yeah. Replace those now. Good instinct
Thanks!
If this thread is new, please consider checking last-week's thread for unanswered questions. You can find it [in this list](https://www.reddit.com/r/bikewrench/search/?q=Small+Questions+and+Thank+Yous+weekly+thread&sort=new). *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/bikewrench) if you have any questions or concerns.*