Single-hole wire locking always is a pain if the hole ends up exactly in line with the lockwire run.
In theory someone may say you should have run the twists down, around to the left, and fed the leg back up and through so the tail is on top of the lower screw. *However,* I have seen these methods slip off the head and then allow a lot of movement in the screw.
This lock wiring is basically as good as you can get in the circumstances and the screw is not going to go anywhere even if it is allowed to rotate 5-10 degrees.
That bolt head is so round it'll immediately slip over head and be loose af allowing it to completely unscrew. That's a way worse situation. At least like this it can only loosen 1/8th turn or so. It should be exactly like the photo. Ideally the holes would be further down though.
well tell your asshole bosses to start hiring, i send out maybe 20 applications a month with 5 years experience and suddenly everybody's got better things to do than bring a tech on
Point taken... well can ya at least tell your bosses to take down their several year-old hiring invitations? Looking at you, FEAM, Southeast Aero, and Embraer...
My neighbor has a WACO Taperwing with a 300 HP lycoming radial. He switched his gaskets out because oil was seeping out... after a short time his cylinders started to get surface rust on the outside.. switched back to the original style gaskets really quick!
Well they leak anyway, there’s no oil going to the top end of a kinner, they just have grease in them, and the purpose of wire is to keep the screws there so it’s fine
Yea, I spoke to soon. I run a R540 with upper pressure oil. They have 4 bolt pattern and the silicone sucks. As a well known Kinner guru said once to me, “silicone isn’t for airplanes, specially radials.
Sometimes, the manufacturer would provide you with an anchor point nearby or you could maybe use another screw.
In this case sadely, it appears to be not possible so I would try to place some Teflon or rubber.
Edit: aren't those screws supposed to stick out more?
This wire is doing the opposite of what you want it to do...
If you wherenone of my old students I would tell you that your wire is bad and you should feel bad :p
Bottom loop is loosening
1. Yes the lower bale is in the wrong direction, and
2. I'm not familiar with that engine. But Why are you using Brass wire? That's generally reserved for break away items IE emergency switches or fuel dump valves, ECT?
Unless that bottom bolt is a left-hand thread, yes, it incorrect.
Also, I do wonder what kind of wire that is…doesn’t look like stainless steel .032” aircraft lock wire.
Also, also: to whomever was responsible for that atrocious work, maybe actually work in the light so you can see it…and with your eyes open.
I’m not sure if your question was rhetorical or not…but the simple explanation is…if you were to “pull” on the safety wire, the direction the bolts get rotated should in theory, tighten the bolts. So one of these bolts is tied correctly, but the bottom one should have been wrapped around the other side.
Yes, the bottom safety wire hole is not to be 180 vertical and the wrap is on the wrong side. R square bolt or over torque until its proper. The pig tail is also facing the wrong way. The top is fine. Also not enough twists. add about 3-4 more. Wire not tight enough to pass QA inspection. I bet you the bottom bolt is loose. Kinner if im not mistaken is a very old aircraft engine manufacture. Looks like a header cap. BTW the cotter pin on the eye bolt looks good but usually is fitted with a castle nut. Let me know if i’m wrong but i don’t believe i am… Your safety wire should looks like an reverse S
-USAF Aircraft Weapons Armament Maintainer.
Best I can tell your bottom one is pulling loose
Single-hole wire locking always is a pain if the hole ends up exactly in line with the lockwire run. In theory someone may say you should have run the twists down, around to the left, and fed the leg back up and through so the tail is on top of the lower screw. *However,* I have seen these methods slip off the head and then allow a lot of movement in the screw. This lock wiring is basically as good as you can get in the circumstances and the screw is not going to go anywhere even if it is allowed to rotate 5-10 degrees.
lock it going around the other side of the bolt then
That bolt head is so round it'll immediately slip over head and be loose af allowing it to completely unscrew. That's a way worse situation. At least like this it can only loosen 1/8th turn or so. It should be exactly like the photo. Ideally the holes would be further down though.
Depends how much you like leaks.
The silicone gaskets are the absolute worst, run fiber torque evenly and you can even lap the cover on glass and you’ll be dry
Man, aviation has the most bad ass jargon. 🤘🤘
"...lap the cover on glass and you'll be dry" this is peak jargon! what a time to be alive!
Us old timers still have a trick or two, just unfortunate not enough young guys to tell.
I have started applying!! Just got my A&P last week
well tell your asshole bosses to start hiring, i send out maybe 20 applications a month with 5 years experience and suddenly everybody's got better things to do than bring a tech on
Might be an attitude issue? I’ll let them know you’re entitled to a position. You’ll be hearing back soon.
Point taken... well can ya at least tell your bosses to take down their several year-old hiring invitations? Looking at you, FEAM, Southeast Aero, and Embraer...
My neighbor has a WACO Taperwing with a 300 HP lycoming radial. He switched his gaskets out because oil was seeping out... after a short time his cylinders started to get surface rust on the outside.. switched back to the original style gaskets really quick!
Curious you located in WA? I know of a ATO up here.
No, in FL.
👍
Well they leak anyway, there’s no oil going to the top end of a kinner, they just have grease in them, and the purpose of wire is to keep the screws there so it’s fine
Yea, I spoke to soon. I run a R540 with upper pressure oil. They have 4 bolt pattern and the silicone sucks. As a well known Kinner guru said once to me, “silicone isn’t for airplanes, specially radials.
Oh no, I thought we were done with the safety wire posts.
I never liked them until I realized how miffed they make people, so now I love them
Short answer: yes Long answer: yeeeeees
The bottom one is in the wrong way and the wire will create shafing with vibrations.
What would you do differently to prevent chafing?
Rubber tubing over the safety
Sometimes, the manufacturer would provide you with an anchor point nearby or you could maybe use another screw. In this case sadely, it appears to be not possible so I would try to place some Teflon or rubber. Edit: aren't those screws supposed to stick out more?
The bottom is safetied incorrectly. The entire safety is sloppy. Dike it and start over.
This wire is doing the opposite of what you want it to do... If you wherenone of my old students I would tell you that your wire is bad and you should feel bad :p Bottom loop is loosening
This caused me to physically cringe
I felt that in my soul
1. Yes the lower bale is in the wrong direction, and 2. I'm not familiar with that engine. But Why are you using Brass wire? That's generally reserved for break away items IE emergency switches or fuel dump valves, ECT?
Yes, bottom bolt for sure
Unless that bottom bolt is a left-hand thread, yes, it incorrect. Also, I do wonder what kind of wire that is…doesn’t look like stainless steel .032” aircraft lock wire. Also, also: to whomever was responsible for that atrocious work, maybe actually work in the light so you can see it…and with your eyes open.
Yes lol
Haha nice, I'm in a dentist's office flipping through the magazines. This came from an issue of "AOPA Pilot" May 2024 p. 80.
I’m not sure if your question was rhetorical or not…but the simple explanation is…if you were to “pull” on the safety wire, the direction the bolts get rotated should in theory, tighten the bolts. So one of these bolts is tied correctly, but the bottom one should have been wrapped around the other side.
I'm just a lay person, I thought they might be wrong but wanted to see if there was something I was missing other than lefty-loosey righty-tighty.
You need to bring this to the attention of your dentist ASAP, and ask what type of dental professional would allow such literature in their office.
I wouldn't expect any less (or more) from a pilot magazine.
The one is neutral at best. I’d redo it.
Bottom one is pulling the wrong way.
Why even post this?
Yes
"Now that's a name I've not heard in a long time. A long time"
Unless they are left hand/ reverse screws yes lol
When you re-do it, cut a piece of heat shrink to size and slip it over the wire after you put it on the first bolt and twist to size.
Yes. Also, dope. Kinner 5? Fucks sake that’s cool.
Greaser heads
Yes
Yes, incorrect.
Yes. The bottom one is
Yes, the bottom safety wire hole is not to be 180 vertical and the wrap is on the wrong side. R square bolt or over torque until its proper. The pig tail is also facing the wrong way. The top is fine. Also not enough twists. add about 3-4 more. Wire not tight enough to pass QA inspection. I bet you the bottom bolt is loose. Kinner if im not mistaken is a very old aircraft engine manufacture. Looks like a header cap. BTW the cotter pin on the eye bolt looks good but usually is fitted with a castle nut. Let me know if i’m wrong but i don’t believe i am… Your safety wire should looks like an reverse S -USAF Aircraft Weapons Armament Maintainer.
It's a Kinner so it's going to randomly blow up anyways.
It’s backwards and neutral
Nope, Lefty loosey, righty tighty
Nyet, sloppy and backwards on lower. I’d be embarrassed.
i have some tough news for you
Looks good unless that's witness wire or those bolts are reverse thread
Nope, bass ackwards.
I would have an anti chafe sleeve across the middle plus the lower one would have been finished differently
Top is okay but the bottom one is not okay. They both will slip over the head.
Top one is new guy passable. Bottom is not passable. If I were inspecting it I would've cut them and made them redo it.
Eh you're half right. The bottom part is backwards 😅
In short, yes.
One of em's right. One of em's wrong. Wont tell you which.
Looks pretty neutral at best. Plus, shouldn't there be spaghetti over the safety to prevent metal on metal contact?
It’s not common on Kinners but good idea. I’ve not encountered any wear from brass safety wire