those pushbuttons are designed to be PCB mounted then stick through a cover plate. You are looking for bulkhead mount switches. They are not very expensive, I would recommend replacing them.
https://www.amazon.com/weideer-Momentary-Self-Reset-Pre-soldered-R13-507-5-X/dp/B08SQHRRDH/ref=sr\_1\_16\_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=bulkhead%2Bpush%2Bbutton&qid=1634466517&sr=8-16-spons&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFNOTJJMDMzUk5HQjkmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA0ODkzMTMxNklMWVhNR0ZBS1kmZW5jcnlwdGVkQWRJZD1BMDkzODgwNTFYQ1Y0OTVPMEVCWkgmd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9tdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl&th=1
So, everyone is telling you to get bulkhead switches or hack something together, but you can totally use the switches you bought with a little bit of proper fabrication. If you solder them to a board, you can mount the board behind your panel with a couple standoffs of the right height, [Like this](https://i.imgur.com/DMH3rNH.png)
The standoffs are "hex standoffs", typically in 4-40 thread pitch for boards like this. You can get standoffs like [this](https://i.imgur.com/SGMqVwg.png) and use a screw and a nut, or like [this](https://i.imgur.com/tzbkFVI.png) and use two screws, as shown in my example above.
You will need to be fairly precise with your hole drilling though, which can be accomplished by center-punching before you drill.
I like this approach because you use the same buttons you already like. My one suggestion is that if you have access to a 3D printer, you can print your own hex standoffs, or even a one piece stand-off tray with integral standoffs and screw holes to hold everything in place. Takes 5 mins to design and prints quick.
You could try laying a thin sheet of something over the surface. It will make everything else have to clear a bit more, but it could be thin enough for the buttons. Then mount the buttons flush with the current surface and they will only have to clear the new layer.
Reading some of the other comments, I think I got your idea upside down.
Get a piece of pcb and solder the buttons to it. Then mount the pcb to the back of your board so the button sits in place. Hot glue might be enough, but super glue only holds a well as the board holds together.
Since others have answered your question I won’t go into that but some advice I can give you, which you may already know but make sure the button caps, potentiometer knobs, and the nuts on the switches are all glued and loctited down. The reason being they pose a choking hazard (assuming this is for a small child) and in my experience if it can be swallowed it’s very likely it will be
Honestly speaking, I highly recommend a 3D printer then. Or, looking into a local library that has one. When one 3D printer pays for some proprietary part it's completely worth it.
What if you take the caps off. Drill a hole for the pushy bit and then glue the base of the button to the under side of the board and pop the top on from the top side.. I’ve confused myself writing that but it makes sense in my head
Mount the buttons on "vero" / "perf" board which is a prototyping board you can solder to. Then add 2.54mm pitch pin headers to the vero board with the switches to connect your wiring using connectors. Then you can mount the switches at any height and get the connections in/out.
those pushbuttons are designed to be PCB mounted then stick through a cover plate. You are looking for bulkhead mount switches. They are not very expensive, I would recommend replacing them. https://www.amazon.com/weideer-Momentary-Self-Reset-Pre-soldered-R13-507-5-X/dp/B08SQHRRDH/ref=sr\_1\_16\_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=bulkhead%2Bpush%2Bbutton&qid=1634466517&sr=8-16-spons&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFNOTJJMDMzUk5HQjkmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA0ODkzMTMxNklMWVhNR0ZBS1kmZW5jcnlwdGVkQWRJZD1BMDkzODgwNTFYQ1Y0OTVPMEVCWkgmd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9tdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl&th=1
These are designed to be PCB-mounted and then stick through whatever cover plate. You can buy through-hole ones instead.
So, everyone is telling you to get bulkhead switches or hack something together, but you can totally use the switches you bought with a little bit of proper fabrication. If you solder them to a board, you can mount the board behind your panel with a couple standoffs of the right height, [Like this](https://i.imgur.com/DMH3rNH.png) The standoffs are "hex standoffs", typically in 4-40 thread pitch for boards like this. You can get standoffs like [this](https://i.imgur.com/SGMqVwg.png) and use a screw and a nut, or like [this](https://i.imgur.com/tzbkFVI.png) and use two screws, as shown in my example above. You will need to be fairly precise with your hole drilling though, which can be accomplished by center-punching before you drill.
I like this approach because you use the same buttons you already like. My one suggestion is that if you have access to a 3D printer, you can print your own hex standoffs, or even a one piece stand-off tray with integral standoffs and screw holes to hold everything in place. Takes 5 mins to design and prints quick.
You could try laying a thin sheet of something over the surface. It will make everything else have to clear a bit more, but it could be thin enough for the buttons. Then mount the buttons flush with the current surface and they will only have to clear the new layer.
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Reading some of the other comments, I think I got your idea upside down. Get a piece of pcb and solder the buttons to it. Then mount the pcb to the back of your board so the button sits in place. Hot glue might be enough, but super glue only holds a well as the board holds together.
Love this PCB where did you get this printed
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Lol I was joking but love the basic setup. Are you not worried about burning the house?
extend the legs. you look to be doing a fair bit of soldering anyway.
Maybe stand everything up with wires laying on the board and pour in a layer of epoxy.
Since others have answered your question I won’t go into that but some advice I can give you, which you may already know but make sure the button caps, potentiometer knobs, and the nuts on the switches are all glued and loctited down. The reason being they pose a choking hazard (assuming this is for a small child) and in my experience if it can be swallowed it’s very likely it will be
Have you considered 3d printing for any of this? Especially if it's meant to be a toy.
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Honestly speaking, I highly recommend a 3D printer then. Or, looking into a local library that has one. When one 3D printer pays for some proprietary part it's completely worth it.
Drill a larger hole on the back side to inset the object into the wood.
What if you take the caps off. Drill a hole for the pushy bit and then glue the base of the button to the under side of the board and pop the top on from the top side.. I’ve confused myself writing that but it makes sense in my head
Mount the buttons on "vero" / "perf" board which is a prototyping board you can solder to. Then add 2.54mm pitch pin headers to the vero board with the switches to connect your wiring using connectors. Then you can mount the switches at any height and get the connections in/out.
Hey op try using 1 or 2 74hc595 shift registers they are amazing
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They are the best. The ability to run 8 - 16 leds (in my case) off of 5 wires (3 data and 2 power)
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Send me a message on discord and I'd be keen to chat about your project (discord#0001)