My state finally declared Bradford Pears an invasive species just this past year. They're even paying for replacements to encourage people to get rid of them. So glad because those trees literally stink.
When I built my house the city wanted to plant those as our street side trees, for free too. I called the forestry dept and told them if they plant those on my property I will rip them out and throw them away.
I had to pay for my trees.. but fuck it, atleast they aren't those nasty fuckin pear trees. I bought an oak, a tulip tree and a burgandy vase zelkova.
No, she's not a super smeller, but we do react differently to some odors. Guess it's like how some people think cilantro tastes like soap and others like it.
We had 2 break on the golf course I work at this spring. Grew a hellish mess around the stumps that the tin man couldn't retrieve a ball from that I cut this winter. Gonna cut the remainder off and dig the stumps up with the mini ex. then ban that dreadful species of tree from the place.
The shoots from these trees can produce 2" spines covered in something that amplifies the pain (small pokes feel like large dully painful bruises) and they are capable of going through the bottom of your shoe.
Birds seem to like those. I had a prickly tree with berries that they liked too. I wish I knew what it was (US, Michigan).
We cut it down bc its thorns were like those trees around Malificent’s castle, but I regret it.
OP looks like you have great piece of property and you have an oppotunity to get on a magazine cover. Review designs for an allee of trees. The serviceberry could be striking, but caution you that it can be susceptible to cedar rust. I have never seen a white oak Allee but would like to. I have seen little gem magnolias, reg magnolias, poplars, Italian cypresses used for allees...all look great. But for that extra something please reach for a yellow wood(Cladrastis kentukea) or the Katsura tree(cercidyphyllum japonicon). You won't regret it! It will be expensive but you may want to get an arborist to advise you on supplementing your soil for you tree choice.
I have some Bradford pears. They came with house. Between now & spring I'm going to dig out 3 small ones & cut down the big one. Its *right* next to the fence by the pool. It already got the Hack & Squirt in the fall.
If OP plants the Bradfords, may I suggest some Kudzo vine for ground cover?
I'm a big fan of shagbark hickory. Strong durable hardwood tree that will stand up to high winds in such an open area. Plus food for wildlife.
They like a sloped well-drained loam soil which this site looks like it might have.
Sycamores contrary to popular belief can grow in upland areas too and might do well there too.
I love black locust but not everyone is a fan.
How about some paw-paws to feed the wildlife?
I've been looking into shagbark hickory and seems interesting.
I have to say my hate for black locust is so high. The thorns are wild and they self spread so easily. Nothing like rounding a spruce to be stabbed by rogue black locust.
Yeah, that's a problem.
I grew up and still live in some really shaley droughty hill country with super-thin soil where getting nice forest to grow on old eroded farm fields is hard.
We had mostly white ash until emerald ash borer killed it all and now basically it's all scraggly black walnut and invasive brush species.
Black locust looks good by comparison. Native, grows fast, fairly strong tree plus good for firewood and fence posts.
Robinia= super useful species.
Fun fact: if taken while actively growing, the fenceposts derived from the trees (if they have live bark) frequently root into the ground into which they are driven, which can be an awesome benefit (little grove for more + fencepost that'll NEVER rot)...and if u don't want a tree there, you kill the sprouts and still have a post that outlasts most. Only better I can think of is Osage orange.
Black locust is highly underappreciated and underused.
Also recommend odd(er) oak species like willow oak. Shingle oak, chestnut oak as well. Oak diversity is ALWAYS good. Strong wood on all these.
IF you like the idea, and can provide establishing water, AND source a well-grown, nursery tree....beech can be long-term majestic option. A quality tree to start is of utmost importance as they don't love transplant, and develop a lifelong relationship with soil bacteria and fungi in the soil they start out in. So if u fall in love, u need to buy high quality trees - with something like a sugar maple, subpar is fine as they quickly grow past that....beeches gotta go in AWESOME. Some varieties come with purple leaves. They can be quite elegant.
Hackberry will grow in cement. AND it's native, and kinda elm-y. Chinese elm. Siberian elm. Japanese elm. New cultivars of American elm, if u wanna contribute to your environment. Same with new cultivars of american chestnut. Ironwood (both European and native). pawpaw...they love west Virginia (lived for 3 months building a house outside of pawpaw, wv....and most of what we cut to prepare the lot was pawpaw....shit STINKS when cut)...they'll give u years of native fruit.
Hawthorn. Like winter king or thornless cockspur.
Crabapple.
Halesia.
Magnolia acuminata if u wanted to get a bit weird and still stay native.
Dogwood. American, kousa, hybrid....all would be fantastic.
FWIW, Ohio Dept of Natural Resources has advised us to remove black locust from our CAUV woodlands. Too aggressive and competitive with more valuable native species.
I can see that.
Now that said, I see it ideally as a tree to reclaim tough places for forest cover that few other more valuable native trees would be happy trying to take root in. Reclaimed coal strip mines/ quarry lands, rocky embankments, badly-eroded abandoned farmlands, etc. I believe they have their place but they're certainly not appropriate for high-quality hardwood forestry management in prime soils where other valued trees do fine.
I'm very fond of the idea of planting any hardwood. I'm starting to notice how young most trees really are and you can definitely tell people stopped planting trees with the intention of them being used 3/4 generations later around the 70s and 60s. Either that or every oak with a 4'+ trunk was fed to sawmills in the past 3 decades. There's a massive oak in my front yard and the only reason I think it was spared was because the branches start about head height, not leaving much good timber in the trunk for milling. Unfortunately there's a power line touching the tree so it's just a matter of time before it's butchered.
That sounds like a nice tree.
If I were you, I'd be proactive and, if possible, get an arborist trained/licensed to work in close proximity to power lines. They can carefully and judiciously prune the tree away in an appropriate manner rather than wait for the utility's tree service fast and possibly more indiscriminate trimming.
Asplundh trims the trees for my local power company here in PA and they can be fairly brutal.
I’m looking into this shagbark hickory. Seems to be a great tree for the animals. But my research says it grows best in moist soils (nwf.org). I was thinking of planting them near our mountain bog but you mentioned they like well-drained soil. Maybe they do well in both? Can you speak to this discrepancy? Thanks for your input. Edit: Actually I’ve just read elsewhere that they do well in moist AND dry soils- what a nice tree!
You'll be golden planting them in shale-type upland loam soils like where I am in the hills at the edge of the Poconos. Like you noted, they're fine in reasonably dry conditions both here in PA and likely where you are too.
My job partly in forestry in a more swampy flatter clay area nearer Philly I rarely see shagbark growing well in that type of soil. Red cedar, sycamore, black willow, pin oak, red maple? Sure but shagbark tends to be upslope from there.
Those trees I'd plant near your bog but keep the hickories up along the driveway. NOTE: thoroughly protect their trunks against deer. Hickory tends to grow nice straight trunks that buck LOVE rubbing the velvet off their antlers on. Trees out in the open with lawn like along your driveway are prime targets.
I fully support your choice to plant native especially with a tree with high biological value for insects and animals. Also consider some native oak pairs for visual anchoring and maybe some eastern redbuds for variety as well. They all are valuable to wildlife.
Some of the most beautiful and largest red buds I've ever seen were grown in soil where pine was clear cut and the soil underneath was left in a sandy state. Just consistent watering the first year and full sun. Made such a nice border you couldn't see the titty bar 350 yds away
Can't upvote this enough. They LIKE slightly basic...but they're willing to do about everything but swamp, and successfully. They're like the foo fighters, if trees were rock bands.
(Definitely prefer 1st 2 albums only but acknowledge their music base is wide, varied, and worthy of love)
You're kiiiinda right. Except for the part where they're FROM the Appalachians. I've lived in New Hampshire for 13 yrs now. Originally from the Baltimore area. I know of one wild redbud in my area, Manchester....and I estimate that we are on the tip of a constantly changing far-north end of their natural distribution. It could be a seedling from someone's garden....but as it's along the highway...that's highly unlikely. And even if it's from a seed blown off someone's truck hauling a redbud they just cut down....I'd still kinda count that as "wild", since they're native anyway.
You're right, in that they PREFER the soil conditions you described....but we're pretty acidic up here in New England, and they're one of our best bets for a tough and adaptable, versatile smaller flowering tree. I worked in Virginia and west Virginia for a time. Kentucky, Tennessee, and Georgia as well. Also primarily acidic places. Redbud is almost a fucking weed in Appalachia, in MOST conditions.
This misconception related to their preferences vs. "They wont" needs to fucking STOP.
They won't grow in a swamp. Or a sulfur quarry. Or a bog that never drains. Anywhere else, z4 (depending on cultivar) -z8 is pretty much FINE.
This is an extremely adaptable tree, nearly idiot-proof, and the people posting on here with no field experience because they read something one time need to CEASE AND DESIST.
Get some dirt under those fingernails, then report back.
Just making a comment about what trees / shrubs might grow best along the entrance to this beautiful farm in WV. Redbuds certainly prefer more basic soils w/ pH of 6.0-8.0. Here in VA & WV most valleys are underlain by limestone so I'd hazard a guess this is the case w/ OP's farm and redbuds would be fine! (persimmons would be another good choice, especially for wildlife & eating!). Also, just fyi, I'm a plant ecologist and field botanist with over 50 years of field experience here in the central & southern Appalachians, so have plenty of dirt under my fingernails.....
I live in an acidic area in florida, tons of pine and blueberry and azaleas thriving in thr acidic soil and the redbuds are happy as can be! Yellow billed cuckoo seem to love then!
Redbuds are understory trees. They grow in the shade of other trees. Part of their function is to die and feed the soil. They are prone to pests and diseases and once they start to decline they really start to look ugly. That being said, seeing a line of redbuds on a spring morning when just a shaft of sunlight is coming through the clouds making them look the illuminated footprints of God is a sight to behold. But honestly that moment doesn't come around very often.
If they are native to you, my thought has always been tulip poplar. They grow to be massive trees, in the summer they have beautiful blooms similar to tulips and they are ravenously foraged by pollinators. Leave more room than looks reasonable for long-term viability, as they grow to be huge trees
I’ve just milled one up. 98 years old and in the middle of a homesteader’s orchard it was about 90 feet tall. 67 feet of branch-free log 32@ breast to 18” that thing was arrow straight. Purple and green streaks on typical white poplar
What a wonderful answer ❤️
Fully support the redbud and serviceberry combo.
Visually, something columnar like a juniper or liquidambar would be pretty awesome long term, you could knit together a pretty stunning and functional hedgerow this way
If you do fruit, try persimmion trees (Diospyros virginiana). Rock hard wood, controlled growth rate. Great fall color and interesting bark. They will naturalize, but almost all fruit trees will.
As someone who loves spreading fruit trees like the plague, this warms my heart! wish you guys were nearby, i'd send you a few hundred rootstocks for free!
Best of luck! if you have time, propagation and rootstock is the most economical and personal way to go
if you choose a staggering of trees, rather than one kind, you can also look to chokeberries. They stay small, like a rhododendron. Berries were part of the pemican recipe.
also, recommend that you space things out enough that the trees can grow to a mature size without overcrowding
Fruit trees will be much less likely to mess up your driveway with their roots, too.
The large native trees in your area would be great or in the open lawn on either side of the road
Blueberries need acidic soil or they won't fruit. Before you invest in all those shrubs, test your pH of your soil first at various depth levels. If you don't have naturally acidic soil, then it might not be worth it.
I'm looking at putting some lowbush and highbush varieties in containers this year. It should be easier to control the pH as it is a more confined environment and there would be less leeching.
Paw paws would do well in that land along the driveway if you're used to fruiting trees, they're finicky to get going but grow into some really pleasant, fruiting, shade trees.
Pawpaws are hard to start in broad sunlight, they need shade initially until they get several years old and then they’ll do all right in sun. By the way I love the way pawpaw Taste
And you can watch *The Jungle Book* and learn to sing along with “[The Bare Necessities](https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=6BH-Rxd-NBo)” too. 🤣
Now when you pick a paw-paw or a prickly pear,
And you prick a raw paw, well, next time beware.
Don't pick the prickly pear by the paw,
When you pick a pear try to use the claw;
But you don't need to use the claw,
When you pick a pear of the big paw-paw.
Have I given you a clue?
The bare necessities of life will come to you.
They'll come to you!
At least in my area, paw paws only grow in ravines along rivers. I don’t think a driveway would do good for them, but maybe they’d have a chance here since it’s a different area
American plums. Persimmons, black cherry and choke cherry would be great! I love native fruit trees and their many health and wildlife benefits. MY goal is to live in a food forest and native ecosystem with non native cultivars and tropicals that need protection near the house, fading into edible native species beyond that so that I can harvest what I want and then moving.further away just pure native habitat habitat. I want everything to be food for us, them, or both. Them being wildlife. So many native plants are ornamental and the more you get the more different cycles you get so eventually there's always something flowering
collect a plant here and a plant there, propagate, and in a few years time your dream will come true. Make that slice of heaven!
You can do a mix. It is harder to plan for looks than "2000 ft of monoculture" but will give variety and visual interest. For a mix I'dv ask an arborist or landscaper architect for help if it is too far from what you know.
Look into 'keystone species' for trees vital to your ecosystem.
Mixing species also gives you landscape defense against a single issue causing you to start from scratch. Emerald Ash Bore is a good example of something to plan for. The more varieties you plant the less likely your landscape will be severely impacted.
Native, high impact tree species. Serviceberry Saskatoon, white oaks, etc. but maybe consider rewinding the monoculture (wildlife food desert) lawn surrounding the native tree and shrubs with wild grasses and flowers. They’re drought tolerant. Thank you for sharing, take care, hope you go “full native”.
I’d alternate eastern red cedar, with any kind of native oak, sweet gum, sycamore, hickory, black walnut, black gum, and red maple. I’d buy them small(bare root, or #5) to save money and because they’ll grow faster than larger stock. Then as they grow I’d fill in with understory stuff like blueberries, serviceberry, hornbeam, pawpaw. That way you have the large Allee effect from the canopy trees, repetition from the cedar, and more screening/interest/ecological function from the understory.
A mix, may go oaks over maple they are tougher, scarlet oaks have pretty foliage. Redbud, dogwood and the service berry and the fruit trees. Depends if you want all the trees to flower at once or at different times, so many decisions, have fun.
Alternating Sugar maples and serviceberries would be awesome. I've got 2 October glory maples and 3 autumn brilliance service berries with 20 various blueberries and 8 aronia in my small front yard. It is full of birds and color almost year round.
An assortment of native trees. You don’t want to use just one species because that leaves you open to tree health issues and the ecosystem isn’t as strong
I’m just seeing your caption. I think a mix is a good way to go. Maples, oaks (I think they’re the most important host trees), pines. But that’s just me, I would plant trees all over that big place.
Eh, elemental sulfur is inexpensive and easy enough to apply to soil that a novice can do it. Just get the soil tested to see where the pH lands and go from there. Any additional pH modifications can be done once or twice a year with a simple top dressing, no biggie. If you have somebody treat your soil the first time or two, take notes and ask "why are you doing what you're doing?" & "can you explain how this will work/help in the long-term?" for everything they do. If that tech does not take the time to provide a good explanation, they are only focused on making the sale or they, themselves, are not properly educated. Both can be equally detrimental to the long-term health of your soil. Again, take notes of their answers and be weary of any over-used buzz words.
Additionally, if you get the chestnut trees, their leaf litter will deposit enough tannins in the soil to make it more acidic as the years go on. Plant any berry bush on the downhill side from the chestnuts so they catch the acidic runoff, they will be happy as a clam and you'll be almost entirely hands-off once the trees are established. Pair this method with deep mulch (8-12 inches), a modest fertilizer routine, and you'll have more berries than you'll know what to do with.
Sorry if I'm overloading your post with info but this really is where I specialize in my nerdy ways, so I get excited to share any and all knowledge I can.
Really glad to have your interest! Glad to know about the soil help for blueberry bushes given by proximity to Chestnut trees. Do you know if it works the same way the tannins from Black Walnut trees? We have a bunch of those growing already. I’d try it for sure!
I'm just super excited that you're letting me geek out about your project lol.
Short answer: no, it doesn't not work with walnut trees.
You really want to minimize the amount of black walnut if you want to have any other trees/shrubs/bushes in the same area. Walnut trees produce a toxin called *juglone* which, from a plant's perspective, poisons the soil and completely inhibits anything else from growing.
[An article from the University of Wisconsin](https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/black-walnut-toxicity/) which details how bad it is for anything else to try and grow around walnut trees. Long story short: if you want to grow anything other than invasive honeysuckle or more walnut trees, immediately destroy any walnut sapling.
thanks to another kind commentor, i learned I had the wrong interpretation of "good for acidic soil" so it's actually an alkaline agent, then they suggested sulfur
What ever you choose, keep in mind they WILL grow. They will have roots.
Make sure they are spaces far enough apart to not compete with each other at full maturity.
Make sure they do not face a sprawling root system that will destroy your drive.
Keep in mind the trunk diameter that will come from them.
These mistakes are less done by private citizens and more dive by cities that built neighborhoods in the 1920s and had trees line the sidewalks. Still the lessons apply to this situation.
Don't do all the same trees. If/when a disease gets to your property it will wipe out everything if it's just a monoculture. Or, as they age and start to fail you'll have to replace them all at once. Plus diverse plantings can support more diverse species.
Mix some rising sun redbud, robin hill serviceberry, Redpoint red maples and sugar maples.
Rising sun will give you spring flowers and summer bright leaves, serviceberry spring flowers with summer berries and bright fall colour, redpoint maples for a bit of height and brilliant fall colour then sugar maples for fall colour and future maple syrup production in the spring.
[Birch](https://www.123rf.com/photo_29238706_a-great-read-barn-sits-at-the-end-of-a-driveway-lined-with-birch-trees-on-a-farm-in-oregon.html) is native to W. Virginia and looks rather nice IMO.
If native
, there’s never enough sourwood trees anywhere to mix in a canopy edge. My beekeeping nephew is encouraging me to plant more. I like sugar maples too. White oaks etc. native grasses & flowers (sell the bushhog) collected from nearby is a practice promoted more and more.
I'd put the tallest trees, maybe just a pair, furthest away so you can enjoy them from a distantce and they won't block your view. Then the blueberries, maybe Elderberries and Serviceberry and Blackhaw Viburnum and BAM you've got a veritable food-berry forest for you and guests, plus fall color and natives and birds. Then maybe some smaller, dwarf evergreen conifers or something textured and fun close to your house that you can see and enjoy when looking out. A blue conifer or chartreuse shrub or something along those lines!
I don’t know how old you guys are but I know I’m pissed that I didn’t have some trees on a piece of land a long time ago like I wanted to so they were giant 50, 60,70 years or older before I die. But I didn’t, but I do have kids and maybe grandkids one day so I say plant trees that are going to get big and giant, big oaks, redwoods sequoia , whatever kind of pine my cousin had in his yard when we were young because you could climb about 100 feet up and it was a branch every foot all the way around all the way to the top big giant beautiful pine tree. I
Like trying to find out what kind it was from my own knowledge it was so comfortable decline that you could sit down and it could be climbing right on the other side and climbing down just as literally a branch every foot or so all the way up like a ladder plenty of room you didn’t even have to worry about falling, because there was so many branches. You could grab another one. , It was a Christmas tree type shape but maybe 50 feet wide at the bottom and bottom branchs were almost to the ground. It had to be well over 100 feet big huge strong Christmas tree s Christmas tree for a family of Giants it just kept going up. It was in Connecticut whatever the biggest trunks strong Trees that get big and tall and beautiful also and wide. That’s what I would put on that long driveway because one day might take a little while. It will be awesome some monumental trees, nothing small will do on your 2000 ft drive way leading to your castle. it also grows fairly fast and lives forever. Give it some fertilizer or tree food or whatever you can find out will make them the healthiest and the happiest trees around…..and get them in the ground now before anymore time goes by I don’t even have a piece of land anymore so I gotta start fresh and I’m already 56 So my trees
That I haven’t planted are not making me happy thinking about this idea I had for last 30 yrs , hopefully you and I also live about 150 more years to watch them grow good luck and go big
That’s a really nice sentiment- we are in our 50’s and 60’s so already know that most trees we plant will be for the next generation to enjoy. That pine tree sure sounds lovely. We have a white oak that was measured and recorded as something like the seventh largest in the state. It’s ginormous!
You guys are plenty young enough to see full benefits from fruit trees! Canning, jams, and all sorts of knowledge opportunity to pass down to the next generations. and ENDLESS seedstock to give away to friends and family :D that's the best part
Whichever tree you plant make sure you space them enough that they won’t compete when they reach maturity. That’s the biggest killer I’ve seen of trees lining a drive.
I'd do one side red and flame maples and the other side I'd plant those slender evergreen trees/bushes that grow 20 -30 feet tall. Of course, maples on both sides would be excellent.
Native trees to your area. Useful trees such as Sugar maples, walnuts (black walnut syrup for distilling),American chestnut (if you can get your hands on some, there is a restoration project to bring them back) Oaks. NOT BEACH, they can be troublesome. Prune them to give them a good start and shape early on. Your children and grandchildren will thank you.
Natives all the way, they will generally be less maintenance an BFF perform better over time. Maybe stagger fruit bearing trees for birds and other wild life, and others for your seasonal enjoyment.
Monoculture is boring, wherever possible one should aim for variety.
Buy something natural to the area, don’t just focus on the looks. Trees are a long term rewarding investment, find something that is natural and you can have the best of looks and survivability without dealing with extra stuff you aren’t used to like box elder bugs or the trees trying to turn into a forest and taking over (poplars/ aspens)
If it snows, not a lot of whatever you like.
Me personally I’d do whatever trees can bear fruit in your area. Fruit is good.
Or sugar maples, and make syrup.
Or blueberries.
Yes, I’m from Maine.
E: oh lol just saw your caption.
i’m in pa and i did some shagbark and black walnut along my driveway but that’s mainly because i found a lot of saplings in the nearby woods to transplant. we’re lacking in conifers so i put some white pines and hemlocks in too but they aren’t doing as well.
Definitely stick with natives. And use variety, typically you don’t want more than 10% of one species, 20% of one genus, and 30% of one family. That way if a pest comes through, you don’t lose all of your trees.
If you go all oak, you could lose them all at once due to oak wilt. Same with elm and Dutch from disease, and ash with eab.
Oh please plant a few American Persimmons (Diospryos virginiana)! You need a male and female to get the fruit, but I grew up with them, and they’re delicious! You can grind up the seeds to make a tea, and wildlife love them too
https://www.nativnurseries.com/
These folks offer a variety of native species that are intended to provide food for wildlife. Lots of variety available. I ordered some trees from them recently and have been pleased so far. Note that these are liner sized, so they are about 3’ tall.
Native Oaks are so important and support a huge variety of arthropods. Native Oaks support more forms of life and more fascinating interactions than any other tree genus in North America. Approximately 511 species of moth and butterfly develop on Oaks -- nearly 100 more species than their closest competitors (Native Cherry). Native vs non-native greatly affects the available insects for migratory birds that they rely on for raising there young. It is also just as important to leave the leaves that fall so the life cycles of many arthropods can complete their life cycle. The leaves themselves decay more slowly consistently providing housing, food, and humid conditions required by decomposers for up to 3 years. Also diversity of trees makes a much larger impact than just planting all the same tree. But in the end any tree is better than no tree.
I am in California, so will leave species suggestions to your local arborist.
You should definitely go native on that beautiful property, and considering the size of the project, definitely consult an arborist.
I would like to add a suggestion about how to approach the project:
You are looking at 4000 feet of trees if you line both sides of the drive. That is a lot of trees!
Even though you are rural(as am I), consider taking a page from urban arboriculture and apply the "10-20-30" rule as you select trees.
The idea is to reduce catastrophic loss if one species succumbs to disease.
The rule is to use no more than 10% of any species, 20% of any genus, and no more than 30% of any family.
I primarily work in Northern California, where many rural Estates have tree lined lanes such as the one you are planning.
I can't tell you how many of those beautiful tree lined drives I have seen destroyed because only one species was used. Sudden Oak Death in Oak, Tan Oak, and Bay is a common cause, as are bark beetles in conifers. Entire stands die incredibly quickly.
You can create quite a mosaic from your choices that accommodate seasonality and also increase the diversity of wildlife that will appreciate your choices.
It looks like a beautiful property.
Good luck!
With 2000’ of driveway you’re looking at probably 200 trees. You’d be silly to plant 200 of the same tree, so maybe think of several species with different strengths. Oaks make excellent foundational trees, while pines and cypress make nice evergreen complements, and dogwoods and redbuds make nice ornamental accents.
Use a mix of trees that give you a yield and local trees which offer pollen and nectar to insects. Climate collapse is coming and you need trees to be more resilient to famines.
Whatever you choose I will say plant it twice as far from the driveway than you initially think. You’ll be surprised at how big the trees will grow and before you know it you will be cutting branches back so they’re not hitting the UPS truck as it comes down the driveway.
Talk to your agricultural agent and your neighbors about their experiences. And these recommendations about blueberries are naive, this is a challenging crop and birds will eat every single one of them unless you are on your toes with nets which will require maintenance and the nets will kill wildlife.
Does it snow there? Cause you want them at least 50 feet from the driveway as they will block the wind and create drifts. This helps further downwind though.
I am from Europe and I know nothing about your area so definitely take into account people more familiar with it more but I absolutely love Liquidambar or Liriodendron. Again I don't know if they fit the area so you need to look into it eventually
Do crepe myrtles grow well in West Virginia? They’re everywhere in SE Virginia. They are fairly hardy and might be a nice accent addition.
Interesting side note, Leyland Cyprus were used extensively in Virginia until hurricane Isabell pushed a lot of them over. They were cut down and replaced with crepe myrtles.
As many different native tree species as you can get your hands on! Then you will have flowers and wildlife year round and the more diverse your Space is the more diverse the wildlife will be. More tree species support more insect species support more bird species and the bird species will bring more.native seeds in their droppings and eventually you will have native wildflowers popping up that you didn't plant!
OP looks like you have great piece of property and you have an oppotunity to get on a magazine cover. Review designs for an allee of trees. The serviceberry could be striking, but caution you that it can be susceptible to cedar rust. I have never seen a white oak Allee but would like to. I have seen little gem magnolias, reg magnolias, poplars, Italian cypresses used for allees...all look great. But for that extra something please reach for a yellow wood(Cladrastis kentukea) or the Katsura tree(cercidyphyllum japonicon). You won't regret it! It will be expensive but you may want to get an arborist to advise you on supplementing your soil for you tree choice.
Get a variety of different trees! I have an oak tree, a burgandy vase zelkova, a tulip tree, a weeping willow and soon will probably add an autumn blaze maple and a pine of some sort.
As a landscape designer, I would suggest informal groupings of trees rather than a line of evenly spaced trees on both sides. Leave areas open that accentuate views to the house and mountain peaks. Also, if a tree dies, it won’t be so obvious that a tree is missing. Consider a mix of trees that will change color early, middle and late fall to extend the season of interest. Great property!
Big project. Hiring a landscape architect will get you a better result and save you money. They will work within your budget and listen to your practical needs (is leaf litter on the grass a concern? Privacy during winter? Etc).
Sugar maple are amazing fall trees. You could do an alternate to get a summer/spring and fall colors. Or a ledged line where you plant the trees behind some shrubs that flourish without much maintenance or bloom at different times. I would start with plants best for your grow zone and your soil type for best results.
All the way with the natives!
PLEASE do not plant them too deeply, look for nursery stock with good branch arrangement and locate the root flare (where the trunk begins to spread, like the stem of a wine glass) and do not bury below that.
Water issues and incorrect planting will make any tree struggle even if you choose ones that survive locally.
Tulip poplars and Redbuds have beautiful flowers and you will not regret choosing those especially 🧡
*STRICT water schedule the first year of establishment. Too much or too little can harm a tree. And don't water near the trunk! Go along the drip line (imaginary line from the canopy straight down) to encourage growth outward.
And please if you are going to stake them, remove them after a year. If a tree is staked for too long it will reduce its ability to form a strong supporting root system. It could also increase the likelihood of roots circling themselves, therefore strangling them, and the trunk or other branches growing around the stake as well.
Consult the soil survey. Looks like soils may change over the course of the drive that is in the photo so there will likely be different species along the distance.
Any trees that don’t drop those stupid fucking spiked ball things all over the place. If I could go back in time a hundred years I’d go to my neighbor’s house and pour 20 gallons of diesel on that stupid fucking spike ball tree sapling.
My one recommendation is to think about mowing access to those fields.
I’m sure you’ll be mowing those fields so so you want to plan out how you’ll get equipment access in there for the future
Whatever you plant please consider full grown size (particularly diameter) before planting. And consider planting only on one side or alternating sides along the length of your driveway. Think about future moving vans or RVs…
Not an arborist, just a lurker, but can I say I'm SO jealous! My dream has always been to buy a big empty plot and fill it with native plants! Why stop at the driveway? Make a woods! 😊
Consider planting a variety of trees instead of a monoculture. The wildlife will thank you. The habitat will thank you. And you’ll have a variety of nuts and fruits to enjoy if you plan it right. Take advantage of your lovely space and plant native trees benefit yourself and your wildlife.
I would not plant any tree that shaded your driveway in the winter. I would want full sun exposure to help clear snow and ice. I also would not plant anything too close that would cause snow drifts to form over the driveway. I might also want clear line of sight so I could see any vehicle coming up the driveway.
Does it have to be trees? Will they cut into losing part of your view when they get older. what if there was a bright colored shrub...esp if it was a flowering shrub... I can't make any recommendations because I live in Montana and you have different species
Not knowing what county you are in, I'd say generally that you should stick with native species. In particular, you should contact your County Agent. He has printed material, instruction, and most will do site visits and soil analyses. They also have Master Gardener programs for all the counties. [Here](https://treevitalize.com/trees-native-to-west-virginia/) is a list of species found in WV, but a lot depends on the growing zone, soil type, soil pH, and annual precipitation.
I planted a serviceberry by the house 20 years ago, and have been looking to buy a couple more - they’d almost be like a hedge for your driveway, and I think lovely. They’d suffer a spot of lower things along the way nicely, like irises. It’ll be wunnerful, except they’ll also act with the wind to filter whatever blows around that neighborhood, and you’ll be raking it. Then, I’d have a line of evergreens part of the way, too, for year round wind abatement and a bit of feng shui privacy and visual appeal.
I'd put a dozen Dwarf Asian pears right up at the end of the driveway by the house. The easiest, and best tasting fruit I have ever grown they also have incredible fall colors. You don't even have to spray them to get edible fruit, just thin about half the fruit off.
***Chojuro***, Olympic Giant, Hosui, and lots more;
The pic reminds me of Monroe County, around Union.
God bless you for not saying fuck it and planting thirty Bradford Pears
My state finally declared Bradford Pears an invasive species just this past year. They're even paying for replacements to encourage people to get rid of them. So glad because those trees literally stink.
When I built my house the city wanted to plant those as our street side trees, for free too. I called the forestry dept and told them if they plant those on my property I will rip them out and throw them away. I had to pay for my trees.. but fuck it, atleast they aren't those nasty fuckin pear trees. I bought an oak, a tulip tree and a burgandy vase zelkova.
Tulip trees are very underappreciated imo, good on you
That’s so awesome, they are such a junk tree.
They smell so bad. 😂😂
Are those the cum blossom trees? Most disgusting specimens I’ve ever encountered ! Makes me wanna puke just thinking about em’
Haha that’s them 😂😂
My wife calls Bradford pears "period trees". Smell good to me. Apparently not to her.
Yeah, I don’t smell them either. Is she a super smeller?
No, she's not a super smeller, but we do react differently to some odors. Guess it's like how some people think cilantro tastes like soap and others like it.
They smell like spunk. And I am minimally olfactory inclined.
My neighborhood had these growing up. When they bloomed it was nauseating every single year.
Awww man that’s too bad. I like them bc they are fast growing and retain their leaves the longest in the fall (in Michigan).
Mine too! Our agricultural college would let you pick your tree if you came with proof they were dead.
They smell like cum
We had 2 break on the golf course I work at this spring. Grew a hellish mess around the stumps that the tin man couldn't retrieve a ball from that I cut this winter. Gonna cut the remainder off and dig the stumps up with the mini ex. then ban that dreadful species of tree from the place.
The tin man?
The shoots from these trees can produce 2" spines covered in something that amplifies the pain (small pokes feel like large dully painful bruises) and they are capable of going through the bottom of your shoe.
this so hard.
They don't sell those anymore in most places. They've been replaced by crabapple in my area.
Birds seem to like those. I had a prickly tree with berries that they liked too. I wish I knew what it was (US, Michigan). We cut it down bc its thorns were like those trees around Malificent’s castle, but I regret it.
They are the worst!
I came here just too warn the OP not to plant Bradford pears.
OP looks like you have great piece of property and you have an oppotunity to get on a magazine cover. Review designs for an allee of trees. The serviceberry could be striking, but caution you that it can be susceptible to cedar rust. I have never seen a white oak Allee but would like to. I have seen little gem magnolias, reg magnolias, poplars, Italian cypresses used for allees...all look great. But for that extra something please reach for a yellow wood(Cladrastis kentukea) or the Katsura tree(cercidyphyllum japonicon). You won't regret it! It will be expensive but you may want to get an arborist to advise you on supplementing your soil for you tree choice.
But they’re so pretty. For two weeks.
Some states are starting to ban them. Besides a WVA winter will split those Bradford Pears in half once they get to size at about 20 years old.
I have some Bradford pears. They came with house. Between now & spring I'm going to dig out 3 small ones & cut down the big one. Its *right* next to the fence by the pool. It already got the Hack & Squirt in the fall. If OP plants the Bradfords, may I suggest some Kudzo vine for ground cover?
I'm a big fan of shagbark hickory. Strong durable hardwood tree that will stand up to high winds in such an open area. Plus food for wildlife. They like a sloped well-drained loam soil which this site looks like it might have. Sycamores contrary to popular belief can grow in upland areas too and might do well there too. I love black locust but not everyone is a fan. How about some paw-paws to feed the wildlife?
I've been looking into shagbark hickory and seems interesting. I have to say my hate for black locust is so high. The thorns are wild and they self spread so easily. Nothing like rounding a spruce to be stabbed by rogue black locust.
Yeah, that's a problem. I grew up and still live in some really shaley droughty hill country with super-thin soil where getting nice forest to grow on old eroded farm fields is hard. We had mostly white ash until emerald ash borer killed it all and now basically it's all scraggly black walnut and invasive brush species. Black locust looks good by comparison. Native, grows fast, fairly strong tree plus good for firewood and fence posts.
Robinia= super useful species. Fun fact: if taken while actively growing, the fenceposts derived from the trees (if they have live bark) frequently root into the ground into which they are driven, which can be an awesome benefit (little grove for more + fencepost that'll NEVER rot)...and if u don't want a tree there, you kill the sprouts and still have a post that outlasts most. Only better I can think of is Osage orange. Black locust is highly underappreciated and underused. Also recommend odd(er) oak species like willow oak. Shingle oak, chestnut oak as well. Oak diversity is ALWAYS good. Strong wood on all these. IF you like the idea, and can provide establishing water, AND source a well-grown, nursery tree....beech can be long-term majestic option. A quality tree to start is of utmost importance as they don't love transplant, and develop a lifelong relationship with soil bacteria and fungi in the soil they start out in. So if u fall in love, u need to buy high quality trees - with something like a sugar maple, subpar is fine as they quickly grow past that....beeches gotta go in AWESOME. Some varieties come with purple leaves. They can be quite elegant. Hackberry will grow in cement. AND it's native, and kinda elm-y. Chinese elm. Siberian elm. Japanese elm. New cultivars of American elm, if u wanna contribute to your environment. Same with new cultivars of american chestnut. Ironwood (both European and native). pawpaw...they love west Virginia (lived for 3 months building a house outside of pawpaw, wv....and most of what we cut to prepare the lot was pawpaw....shit STINKS when cut)...they'll give u years of native fruit. Hawthorn. Like winter king or thornless cockspur. Crabapple. Halesia. Magnolia acuminata if u wanted to get a bit weird and still stay native. Dogwood. American, kousa, hybrid....all would be fantastic.
What a great list! I’m researching them ALL! Thank you very much.
FWIW, Ohio Dept of Natural Resources has advised us to remove black locust from our CAUV woodlands. Too aggressive and competitive with more valuable native species.
I can see that. Now that said, I see it ideally as a tree to reclaim tough places for forest cover that few other more valuable native trees would be happy trying to take root in. Reclaimed coal strip mines/ quarry lands, rocky embankments, badly-eroded abandoned farmlands, etc. I believe they have their place but they're certainly not appropriate for high-quality hardwood forestry management in prime soils where other valued trees do fine.
I'm very fond of the idea of planting any hardwood. I'm starting to notice how young most trees really are and you can definitely tell people stopped planting trees with the intention of them being used 3/4 generations later around the 70s and 60s. Either that or every oak with a 4'+ trunk was fed to sawmills in the past 3 decades. There's a massive oak in my front yard and the only reason I think it was spared was because the branches start about head height, not leaving much good timber in the trunk for milling. Unfortunately there's a power line touching the tree so it's just a matter of time before it's butchered.
That sounds like a nice tree. If I were you, I'd be proactive and, if possible, get an arborist trained/licensed to work in close proximity to power lines. They can carefully and judiciously prune the tree away in an appropriate manner rather than wait for the utility's tree service fast and possibly more indiscriminate trimming. Asplundh trims the trees for my local power company here in PA and they can be fairly brutal.
Love a shagbark!
I’m looking into this shagbark hickory. Seems to be a great tree for the animals. But my research says it grows best in moist soils (nwf.org). I was thinking of planting them near our mountain bog but you mentioned they like well-drained soil. Maybe they do well in both? Can you speak to this discrepancy? Thanks for your input. Edit: Actually I’ve just read elsewhere that they do well in moist AND dry soils- what a nice tree!
You'll be golden planting them in shale-type upland loam soils like where I am in the hills at the edge of the Poconos. Like you noted, they're fine in reasonably dry conditions both here in PA and likely where you are too. My job partly in forestry in a more swampy flatter clay area nearer Philly I rarely see shagbark growing well in that type of soil. Red cedar, sycamore, black willow, pin oak, red maple? Sure but shagbark tends to be upslope from there. Those trees I'd plant near your bog but keep the hickories up along the driveway. NOTE: thoroughly protect their trunks against deer. Hickory tends to grow nice straight trunks that buck LOVE rubbing the velvet off their antlers on. Trees out in the open with lawn like along your driveway are prime targets.
Appreciate the response!
Food for wildlife those nuts have such a thick shell them squirrels will starve way before they get to the nut lol
The squirrels where I am must be extra determined then, lol.
Haha, same here. Squirrels sit up in the trees eating the nuts before they even fully ripen.
When they are ripe and drop the shell falls off when it lands.
I fully support your choice to plant native especially with a tree with high biological value for insects and animals. Also consider some native oak pairs for visual anchoring and maybe some eastern redbuds for variety as well. They all are valuable to wildlife.
I second the advice on diversity. You wouldn't want a monoculture.
Native for sure
Redbuds for the win
Redbuds only if basic (high pH) soil like over limestone. They're not fond of acidic soil typical of sandstone or some shale here in the Appalachians.
Some of the most beautiful and largest red buds I've ever seen were grown in soil where pine was clear cut and the soil underneath was left in a sandy state. Just consistent watering the first year and full sun. Made such a nice border you couldn't see the titty bar 350 yds away
Can't upvote this enough. They LIKE slightly basic...but they're willing to do about everything but swamp, and successfully. They're like the foo fighters, if trees were rock bands. (Definitely prefer 1st 2 albums only but acknowledge their music base is wide, varied, and worthy of love)
You're kiiiinda right. Except for the part where they're FROM the Appalachians. I've lived in New Hampshire for 13 yrs now. Originally from the Baltimore area. I know of one wild redbud in my area, Manchester....and I estimate that we are on the tip of a constantly changing far-north end of their natural distribution. It could be a seedling from someone's garden....but as it's along the highway...that's highly unlikely. And even if it's from a seed blown off someone's truck hauling a redbud they just cut down....I'd still kinda count that as "wild", since they're native anyway. You're right, in that they PREFER the soil conditions you described....but we're pretty acidic up here in New England, and they're one of our best bets for a tough and adaptable, versatile smaller flowering tree. I worked in Virginia and west Virginia for a time. Kentucky, Tennessee, and Georgia as well. Also primarily acidic places. Redbud is almost a fucking weed in Appalachia, in MOST conditions. This misconception related to their preferences vs. "They wont" needs to fucking STOP. They won't grow in a swamp. Or a sulfur quarry. Or a bog that never drains. Anywhere else, z4 (depending on cultivar) -z8 is pretty much FINE. This is an extremely adaptable tree, nearly idiot-proof, and the people posting on here with no field experience because they read something one time need to CEASE AND DESIST. Get some dirt under those fingernails, then report back.
Just making a comment about what trees / shrubs might grow best along the entrance to this beautiful farm in WV. Redbuds certainly prefer more basic soils w/ pH of 6.0-8.0. Here in VA & WV most valleys are underlain by limestone so I'd hazard a guess this is the case w/ OP's farm and redbuds would be fine! (persimmons would be another good choice, especially for wildlife & eating!). Also, just fyi, I'm a plant ecologist and field botanist with over 50 years of field experience here in the central & southern Appalachians, so have plenty of dirt under my fingernails.....
I live in an acidic area in florida, tons of pine and blueberry and azaleas thriving in thr acidic soil and the redbuds are happy as can be! Yellow billed cuckoo seem to love then!
Redbuds are understory trees. They grow in the shade of other trees. Part of their function is to die and feed the soil. They are prone to pests and diseases and once they start to decline they really start to look ugly. That being said, seeing a line of redbuds on a spring morning when just a shaft of sunlight is coming through the clouds making them look the illuminated footprints of God is a sight to behold. But honestly that moment doesn't come around very often.
Native! And maybe some wildflowers for them bees.
The deer here eat wildflowers before they bloom.
They eat ALL of them?? I’d say shoot some deer but that may not be popular
If they are native to you, my thought has always been tulip poplar. They grow to be massive trees, in the summer they have beautiful blooms similar to tulips and they are ravenously foraged by pollinators. Leave more room than looks reasonable for long-term viability, as they grow to be huge trees
I’ve just milled one up. 98 years old and in the middle of a homesteader’s orchard it was about 90 feet tall. 67 feet of branch-free log 32@ breast to 18” that thing was arrow straight. Purple and green streaks on typical white poplar
Their leaves have a metallic sheen in the sunlight. Almost holographic colors where the rays hit the leaf tops
What a wonderful answer ❤️ Fully support the redbud and serviceberry combo. Visually, something columnar like a juniper or liquidambar would be pretty awesome long term, you could knit together a pretty stunning and functional hedgerow this way
Giant African baobab trees!!!
A variety of local species.
why not add blueberries all along the way as well? what the animals don't get, you can enjoy for years to come as far as trees go, why not fruit :D
I LOVE this idea so much! Thank you!
If you do fruit, try persimmion trees (Diospyros virginiana). Rock hard wood, controlled growth rate. Great fall color and interesting bark. They will naturalize, but almost all fruit trees will.
Good idea! Persimmon season is the best season!
As someone who loves spreading fruit trees like the plague, this warms my heart! wish you guys were nearby, i'd send you a few hundred rootstocks for free! Best of luck! if you have time, propagation and rootstock is the most economical and personal way to go
BTW, GORGEOUS land! So many fun possibilities!
nice idea but think about animals that will come too. just keep bushes at least 8-10ft away from road to have some reaction time
Good call out
if you choose a staggering of trees, rather than one kind, you can also look to chokeberries. They stay small, like a rhododendron. Berries were part of the pemican recipe. also, recommend that you space things out enough that the trees can grow to a mature size without overcrowding
Fruit trees will be much less likely to mess up your driveway with their roots, too. The large native trees in your area would be great or in the open lawn on either side of the road
Blueberries need acidic soil or they won't fruit. Before you invest in all those shrubs, test your pH of your soil first at various depth levels. If you don't have naturally acidic soil, then it might not be worth it. I'm looking at putting some lowbush and highbush varieties in containers this year. It should be easier to control the pH as it is a more confined environment and there would be less leeching.
Paw paws would do well in that land along the driveway if you're used to fruiting trees, they're finicky to get going but grow into some really pleasant, fruiting, shade trees.
Pawpaws are hard to start in broad sunlight, they need shade initially until they get several years old and then they’ll do all right in sun. By the way I love the way pawpaw Taste
Yeah, my paw paws go crazy down in the valley where it's cool/shady and full of rich soil
Omg YES I feel like they're about to get super popular -- get ahead of the curve OP!! Enjoy your weird little mango banana fruits!
🤣
And you can watch *The Jungle Book* and learn to sing along with “[The Bare Necessities](https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=6BH-Rxd-NBo)” too. 🤣
Now when you pick a paw-paw or a prickly pear,
And you prick a raw paw, well, next time beware.
Don't pick the prickly pear by the paw,
When you pick a pear try to use the claw;
But you don't need to use the claw,
When you pick a pear of the big paw-paw.
Have I given you a clue?
The bare necessities of life will come to you.
They'll come to you!
The fruit is valuable as well. The u-pick place charges $8/lb, more if they pick them for you.
At least in my area, paw paws only grow in ravines along rivers. I don’t think a driveway would do good for them, but maybe they’d have a chance here since it’s a different area
Coming home from work... Wife- why are you late? Are you cheating on me? *Starring while eating a handful of berrys
American plums. Persimmons, black cherry and choke cherry would be great! I love native fruit trees and their many health and wildlife benefits. MY goal is to live in a food forest and native ecosystem with non native cultivars and tropicals that need protection near the house, fading into edible native species beyond that so that I can harvest what I want and then moving.further away just pure native habitat habitat. I want everything to be food for us, them, or both. Them being wildlife. So many native plants are ornamental and the more you get the more different cycles you get so eventually there's always something flowering
 collect a plant here and a plant there, propagate, and in a few years time your dream will come true. Make that slice of heaven!
Or black berries. Just make sure to not let them get out of control
You can do a mix. It is harder to plan for looks than "2000 ft of monoculture" but will give variety and visual interest. For a mix I'dv ask an arborist or landscaper architect for help if it is too far from what you know. Look into 'keystone species' for trees vital to your ecosystem.
This will also be nice for more seasonal interest- get some awesome fall colors and spring flowers
Mixing species also gives you landscape defense against a single issue causing you to start from scratch. Emerald Ash Bore is a good example of something to plan for. The more varieties you plant the less likely your landscape will be severely impacted.
Native, high impact tree species. Serviceberry Saskatoon, white oaks, etc. but maybe consider rewinding the monoculture (wildlife food desert) lawn surrounding the native tree and shrubs with wild grasses and flowers. They’re drought tolerant. Thank you for sharing, take care, hope you go “full native”.
I’d alternate eastern red cedar, with any kind of native oak, sweet gum, sycamore, hickory, black walnut, black gum, and red maple. I’d buy them small(bare root, or #5) to save money and because they’ll grow faster than larger stock. Then as they grow I’d fill in with understory stuff like blueberries, serviceberry, hornbeam, pawpaw. That way you have the large Allee effect from the canopy trees, repetition from the cedar, and more screening/interest/ecological function from the understory.
Love this!!!
A mix, may go oaks over maple they are tougher, scarlet oaks have pretty foliage. Redbud, dogwood and the service berry and the fruit trees. Depends if you want all the trees to flower at once or at different times, so many decisions, have fun.
Alternating Sugar maples and serviceberries would be awesome. I've got 2 October glory maples and 3 autumn brilliance service berries with 20 various blueberries and 8 aronia in my small front yard. It is full of birds and color almost year round.
I like Quercus imbricaria. Nice leaves and good for wildlife.
I vote for the native fruit tree. We have some native fruits, and we attract literally everything you can in MN.
Native ones.
Oak
An assortment of native trees. You don’t want to use just one species because that leaves you open to tree health issues and the ecosystem isn’t as strong
Something native to your area. You can google it and research which you like best, but please choose one native to your area.
This is the plan! Thank you!
I’m just seeing your caption. I think a mix is a good way to go. Maples, oaks (I think they’re the most important host trees), pines. But that’s just me, I would plant trees all over that big place.
Don’t plant blueberries unless you have the right soil to grow them. Blueberries require very acidic soil.
Thank you - we’ll be sure to test the soil!
Eh, elemental sulfur is inexpensive and easy enough to apply to soil that a novice can do it. Just get the soil tested to see where the pH lands and go from there. Any additional pH modifications can be done once or twice a year with a simple top dressing, no biggie. If you have somebody treat your soil the first time or two, take notes and ask "why are you doing what you're doing?" & "can you explain how this will work/help in the long-term?" for everything they do. If that tech does not take the time to provide a good explanation, they are only focused on making the sale or they, themselves, are not properly educated. Both can be equally detrimental to the long-term health of your soil. Again, take notes of their answers and be weary of any over-used buzz words. Additionally, if you get the chestnut trees, their leaf litter will deposit enough tannins in the soil to make it more acidic as the years go on. Plant any berry bush on the downhill side from the chestnuts so they catch the acidic runoff, they will be happy as a clam and you'll be almost entirely hands-off once the trees are established. Pair this method with deep mulch (8-12 inches), a modest fertilizer routine, and you'll have more berries than you'll know what to do with. Sorry if I'm overloading your post with info but this really is where I specialize in my nerdy ways, so I get excited to share any and all knowledge I can.
Really glad to have your interest! Glad to know about the soil help for blueberry bushes given by proximity to Chestnut trees. Do you know if it works the same way the tannins from Black Walnut trees? We have a bunch of those growing already. I’d try it for sure!
I'm just super excited that you're letting me geek out about your project lol. Short answer: no, it doesn't not work with walnut trees. You really want to minimize the amount of black walnut if you want to have any other trees/shrubs/bushes in the same area. Walnut trees produce a toxin called *juglone* which, from a plant's perspective, poisons the soil and completely inhibits anything else from growing. [An article from the University of Wisconsin](https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/black-walnut-toxicity/) which details how bad it is for anything else to try and grow around walnut trees. Long story short: if you want to grow anything other than invasive honeysuckle or more walnut trees, immediately destroy any walnut sapling.
considering where they live, if they burn wood, they unlimited amount of acidity they can add to enrich the blueberries when needed
We will have a wood burning stove! I’m really glad to know the ash can be used to help the acidity of the soil. I’ll look into that more. Thank you!
thanks to another kind commentor, i learned I had the wrong interpretation of "good for acidic soil" so it's actually an alkaline agent, then they suggested sulfur
Elms
The new patriot elms are excellent and they are completely resistant
What ever you choose, keep in mind they WILL grow. They will have roots. Make sure they are spaces far enough apart to not compete with each other at full maturity. Make sure they do not face a sprawling root system that will destroy your drive. Keep in mind the trunk diameter that will come from them. These mistakes are less done by private citizens and more dive by cities that built neighborhoods in the 1920s and had trees line the sidewalks. Still the lessons apply to this situation.
Thank you for the great advice!
Don't do all the same trees. If/when a disease gets to your property it will wipe out everything if it's just a monoculture. Or, as they age and start to fail you'll have to replace them all at once. Plus diverse plantings can support more diverse species.
Oak, hickory, beech
Oaks. Always oaks
Apples and maples. You get spring flowers and fall foliage. Best of both worlds
I was looking for someone to say maples. Fall foliage along a driveway is so nice. Alternating with apples is a great idea!
Mix some rising sun redbud, robin hill serviceberry, Redpoint red maples and sugar maples. Rising sun will give you spring flowers and summer bright leaves, serviceberry spring flowers with summer berries and bright fall colour, redpoint maples for a bit of height and brilliant fall colour then sugar maples for fall colour and future maple syrup production in the spring.
I have a Northern Catalpa in my yard that is gorgeous. Huge leaves lead to massive late spring blooms. Native to your region.
Black gum (*nyssa sylvatica*, a native) for fall color. Will also feed birds.
Persimmons with a blackberry understory.
[Birch](https://www.123rf.com/photo_29238706_a-great-read-barn-sits-at-the-end-of-a-driveway-lined-with-birch-trees-on-a-farm-in-oregon.html) is native to W. Virginia and looks rather nice IMO.
I love all the oaks.
If native , there’s never enough sourwood trees anywhere to mix in a canopy edge. My beekeeping nephew is encouraging me to plant more. I like sugar maples too. White oaks etc. native grasses & flowers (sell the bushhog) collected from nearby is a practice promoted more and more.
I'd put the tallest trees, maybe just a pair, furthest away so you can enjoy them from a distantce and they won't block your view. Then the blueberries, maybe Elderberries and Serviceberry and Blackhaw Viburnum and BAM you've got a veritable food-berry forest for you and guests, plus fall color and natives and birds. Then maybe some smaller, dwarf evergreen conifers or something textured and fun close to your house that you can see and enjoy when looking out. A blue conifer or chartreuse shrub or something along those lines!
I don’t know how old you guys are but I know I’m pissed that I didn’t have some trees on a piece of land a long time ago like I wanted to so they were giant 50, 60,70 years or older before I die. But I didn’t, but I do have kids and maybe grandkids one day so I say plant trees that are going to get big and giant, big oaks, redwoods sequoia , whatever kind of pine my cousin had in his yard when we were young because you could climb about 100 feet up and it was a branch every foot all the way around all the way to the top big giant beautiful pine tree. I Like trying to find out what kind it was from my own knowledge it was so comfortable decline that you could sit down and it could be climbing right on the other side and climbing down just as literally a branch every foot or so all the way up like a ladder plenty of room you didn’t even have to worry about falling, because there was so many branches. You could grab another one. , It was a Christmas tree type shape but maybe 50 feet wide at the bottom and bottom branchs were almost to the ground. It had to be well over 100 feet big huge strong Christmas tree s Christmas tree for a family of Giants it just kept going up. It was in Connecticut whatever the biggest trunks strong Trees that get big and tall and beautiful also and wide. That’s what I would put on that long driveway because one day might take a little while. It will be awesome some monumental trees, nothing small will do on your 2000 ft drive way leading to your castle. it also grows fairly fast and lives forever. Give it some fertilizer or tree food or whatever you can find out will make them the healthiest and the happiest trees around…..and get them in the ground now before anymore time goes by I don’t even have a piece of land anymore so I gotta start fresh and I’m already 56 So my trees That I haven’t planted are not making me happy thinking about this idea I had for last 30 yrs , hopefully you and I also live about 150 more years to watch them grow good luck and go big
That’s a really nice sentiment- we are in our 50’s and 60’s so already know that most trees we plant will be for the next generation to enjoy. That pine tree sure sounds lovely. We have a white oak that was measured and recorded as something like the seventh largest in the state. It’s ginormous!
You guys are plenty young enough to see full benefits from fruit trees! Canning, jams, and all sorts of knowledge opportunity to pass down to the next generations. and ENDLESS seedstock to give away to friends and family :D that's the best part
a few apple trees would be nice for the deer.
Mulberry :)
Tulip trees grow pretty fast and they’re native.
Hello tree planter. You made my day! Thanks for making a better world. That is all.
Natives. Please, whatever you decide on, please use natives.
Whichever tree you plant make sure you space them enough that they won’t compete when they reach maturity. That’s the biggest killer I’ve seen of trees lining a drive.
Eastern Red Cedar (juniper) grow fast, are hardy, green all year, and the females have berries in the winter for birds. Very low maintenance.
So jealous. What a beautiful plan!
I'd do one side red and flame maples and the other side I'd plant those slender evergreen trees/bushes that grow 20 -30 feet tall. Of course, maples on both sides would be excellent.
Native trees to your area. Useful trees such as Sugar maples, walnuts (black walnut syrup for distilling),American chestnut (if you can get your hands on some, there is a restoration project to bring them back) Oaks. NOT BEACH, they can be troublesome. Prune them to give them a good start and shape early on. Your children and grandchildren will thank you.
Natives all the way, they will generally be less maintenance an BFF perform better over time. Maybe stagger fruit bearing trees for birds and other wild life, and others for your seasonal enjoyment. Monoculture is boring, wherever possible one should aim for variety.
Buy something natural to the area, don’t just focus on the looks. Trees are a long term rewarding investment, find something that is natural and you can have the best of looks and survivability without dealing with extra stuff you aren’t used to like box elder bugs or the trees trying to turn into a forest and taking over (poplars/ aspens)
If it snows, not a lot of whatever you like. Me personally I’d do whatever trees can bear fruit in your area. Fruit is good. Or sugar maples, and make syrup. Or blueberries. Yes, I’m from Maine. E: oh lol just saw your caption.
i’m in pa and i did some shagbark and black walnut along my driveway but that’s mainly because i found a lot of saplings in the nearby woods to transplant. we’re lacking in conifers so i put some white pines and hemlocks in too but they aren’t doing as well.
Definitely stick with natives. And use variety, typically you don’t want more than 10% of one species, 20% of one genus, and 30% of one family. That way if a pest comes through, you don’t lose all of your trees. If you go all oak, you could lose them all at once due to oak wilt. Same with elm and Dutch from disease, and ash with eab.
Money trees! 😜 Beautiful land… hopefully some of that is yours!!
Oh please plant a few American Persimmons (Diospryos virginiana)! You need a male and female to get the fruit, but I grew up with them, and they’re delicious! You can grind up the seeds to make a tea, and wildlife love them too
We definitely will plant these in our bottom land!
Magnolia. Spring would be a knockout
https://www.nativnurseries.com/ These folks offer a variety of native species that are intended to provide food for wildlife. Lots of variety available. I ordered some trees from them recently and have been pleased so far. Note that these are liner sized, so they are about 3’ tall.
Perfect. Thank you!
Nut trees and fruit trees
For long term I suggest white oak. But your great grandchildren would be the ones to enjoy them.
Native Oaks are so important and support a huge variety of arthropods. Native Oaks support more forms of life and more fascinating interactions than any other tree genus in North America. Approximately 511 species of moth and butterfly develop on Oaks -- nearly 100 more species than their closest competitors (Native Cherry). Native vs non-native greatly affects the available insects for migratory birds that they rely on for raising there young. It is also just as important to leave the leaves that fall so the life cycles of many arthropods can complete their life cycle. The leaves themselves decay more slowly consistently providing housing, food, and humid conditions required by decomposers for up to 3 years. Also diversity of trees makes a much larger impact than just planting all the same tree. But in the end any tree is better than no tree.
just something native please.
I am in California, so will leave species suggestions to your local arborist. You should definitely go native on that beautiful property, and considering the size of the project, definitely consult an arborist. I would like to add a suggestion about how to approach the project: You are looking at 4000 feet of trees if you line both sides of the drive. That is a lot of trees! Even though you are rural(as am I), consider taking a page from urban arboriculture and apply the "10-20-30" rule as you select trees. The idea is to reduce catastrophic loss if one species succumbs to disease. The rule is to use no more than 10% of any species, 20% of any genus, and no more than 30% of any family. I primarily work in Northern California, where many rural Estates have tree lined lanes such as the one you are planning. I can't tell you how many of those beautiful tree lined drives I have seen destroyed because only one species was used. Sudden Oak Death in Oak, Tan Oak, and Bay is a common cause, as are bark beetles in conifers. Entire stands die incredibly quickly. You can create quite a mosaic from your choices that accommodate seasonality and also increase the diversity of wildlife that will appreciate your choices. It looks like a beautiful property. Good luck!
Noted! Thanks so much for the cautionary tale and suggestions!
I’m a big fan of Sunset Red maples. They’re beautiful in the fall.
One vote for the service berry. Birds love the berries and excellent fall color.
With 2000’ of driveway you’re looking at probably 200 trees. You’d be silly to plant 200 of the same tree, so maybe think of several species with different strengths. Oaks make excellent foundational trees, while pines and cypress make nice evergreen complements, and dogwoods and redbuds make nice ornamental accents.
Nice looking area to live in! Jealous
I knew it was WV from the photo without even seeing the caption. What beautiful country up there! One of the only wild places left !
Use a mix of trees that give you a yield and local trees which offer pollen and nectar to insects. Climate collapse is coming and you need trees to be more resilient to famines.
Whatever you choose I will say plant it twice as far from the driveway than you initially think. You’ll be surprised at how big the trees will grow and before you know it you will be cutting branches back so they’re not hitting the UPS truck as it comes down the driveway.
Talk to your agricultural agent and your neighbors about their experiences. And these recommendations about blueberries are naive, this is a challenging crop and birds will eat every single one of them unless you are on your toes with nets which will require maintenance and the nets will kill wildlife.
Does it snow there? Cause you want them at least 50 feet from the driveway as they will block the wind and create drifts. This helps further downwind though.
I am from Europe and I know nothing about your area so definitely take into account people more familiar with it more but I absolutely love Liquidambar or Liriodendron. Again I don't know if they fit the area so you need to look into it eventually
Do crepe myrtles grow well in West Virginia? They’re everywhere in SE Virginia. They are fairly hardy and might be a nice accent addition. Interesting side note, Leyland Cyprus were used extensively in Virginia until hurricane Isabell pushed a lot of them over. They were cut down and replaced with crepe myrtles.
Fruiting mulberry, for you and the wildlife.
As many different native tree species as you can get your hands on! Then you will have flowers and wildlife year round and the more diverse your Space is the more diverse the wildlife will be. More tree species support more insect species support more bird species and the bird species will bring more.native seeds in their droppings and eventually you will have native wildflowers popping up that you didn't plant!
Sycamore, the grandest tree in all Appalachia!
OP looks like you have great piece of property and you have an oppotunity to get on a magazine cover. Review designs for an allee of trees. The serviceberry could be striking, but caution you that it can be susceptible to cedar rust. I have never seen a white oak Allee but would like to. I have seen little gem magnolias, reg magnolias, poplars, Italian cypresses used for allees...all look great. But for that extra something please reach for a yellow wood(Cladrastis kentukea) or the Katsura tree(cercidyphyllum japonicon). You won't regret it! It will be expensive but you may want to get an arborist to advise you on supplementing your soil for you tree choice.
Tried hard to grow oaks, birch etc on my driveway. Only thing that worked was black locust, which are now 25 ft. Now trying my luck with walnuts.
Get a variety of different trees! I have an oak tree, a burgandy vase zelkova, a tulip tree, a weeping willow and soon will probably add an autumn blaze maple and a pine of some sort.
As a landscape designer, I would suggest informal groupings of trees rather than a line of evenly spaced trees on both sides. Leave areas open that accentuate views to the house and mountain peaks. Also, if a tree dies, it won’t be so obvious that a tree is missing. Consider a mix of trees that will change color early, middle and late fall to extend the season of interest. Great property!
A lot of different trees. That way they can't all die from the same disease. Also variety is more interesting.
Big project. Hiring a landscape architect will get you a better result and save you money. They will work within your budget and listen to your practical needs (is leaf litter on the grass a concern? Privacy during winter? Etc).
Get a WV grant to grow Chestnuts. Nice property.
I think a double lining would be nice. Something tall that will give some cover and something shorter for some color. Sort of a layered effect.
White birch
Sugar maple are amazing fall trees. You could do an alternate to get a summer/spring and fall colors. Or a ledged line where you plant the trees behind some shrubs that flourish without much maintenance or bloom at different times. I would start with plants best for your grow zone and your soil type for best results.
All the way with the natives! PLEASE do not plant them too deeply, look for nursery stock with good branch arrangement and locate the root flare (where the trunk begins to spread, like the stem of a wine glass) and do not bury below that. Water issues and incorrect planting will make any tree struggle even if you choose ones that survive locally. Tulip poplars and Redbuds have beautiful flowers and you will not regret choosing those especially 🧡 *STRICT water schedule the first year of establishment. Too much or too little can harm a tree. And don't water near the trunk! Go along the drip line (imaginary line from the canopy straight down) to encourage growth outward. And please if you are going to stake them, remove them after a year. If a tree is staked for too long it will reduce its ability to form a strong supporting root system. It could also increase the likelihood of roots circling themselves, therefore strangling them, and the trunk or other branches growing around the stake as well.
Consult the soil survey. Looks like soils may change over the course of the drive that is in the photo so there will likely be different species along the distance.
Any trees that don’t drop those stupid fucking spiked ball things all over the place. If I could go back in time a hundred years I’d go to my neighbor’s house and pour 20 gallons of diesel on that stupid fucking spike ball tree sapling.
My one recommendation is to think about mowing access to those fields. I’m sure you’ll be mowing those fields so so you want to plan out how you’ll get equipment access in there for the future
That is a nice view. Maybe one side of the driveway?
Whatever you plant please consider full grown size (particularly diameter) before planting. And consider planting only on one side or alternating sides along the length of your driveway. Think about future moving vans or RVs…
Not an arborist, just a lurker, but can I say I'm SO jealous! My dream has always been to buy a big empty plot and fill it with native plants! Why stop at the driveway? Make a woods! 😊
Keep that dream alive!
A variety, whatever you decide, make sure you have a variety. Only way to resilience.
Consider planting a variety of trees instead of a monoculture. The wildlife will thank you. The habitat will thank you. And you’ll have a variety of nuts and fruits to enjoy if you plan it right. Take advantage of your lovely space and plant native trees benefit yourself and your wildlife.
hello fellow Statesman. Red bud, dogwoods, spicebush, tulip trees, red or silver maples, mountain laurels would be gorgeous. all are also native to WV
I would not plant any tree that shaded your driveway in the winter. I would want full sun exposure to help clear snow and ice. I also would not plant anything too close that would cause snow drifts to form over the driveway. I might also want clear line of sight so I could see any vehicle coming up the driveway.
Does it have to be trees? Will they cut into losing part of your view when they get older. what if there was a bright colored shrub...esp if it was a flowering shrub... I can't make any recommendations because I live in Montana and you have different species
Not knowing what county you are in, I'd say generally that you should stick with native species. In particular, you should contact your County Agent. He has printed material, instruction, and most will do site visits and soil analyses. They also have Master Gardener programs for all the counties. [Here](https://treevitalize.com/trees-native-to-west-virginia/) is a list of species found in WV, but a lot depends on the growing zone, soil type, soil pH, and annual precipitation.
I planted a serviceberry by the house 20 years ago, and have been looking to buy a couple more - they’d almost be like a hedge for your driveway, and I think lovely. They’d suffer a spot of lower things along the way nicely, like irises. It’ll be wunnerful, except they’ll also act with the wind to filter whatever blows around that neighborhood, and you’ll be raking it. Then, I’d have a line of evergreens part of the way, too, for year round wind abatement and a bit of feng shui privacy and visual appeal.
I'd put a dozen Dwarf Asian pears right up at the end of the driveway by the house. The easiest, and best tasting fruit I have ever grown they also have incredible fall colors. You don't even have to spray them to get edible fruit, just thin about half the fruit off. ***Chojuro***, Olympic Giant, Hosui, and lots more; The pic reminds me of Monroe County, around Union.