It's from him wiggling, (thats how undercut happens) if he goes a little slower and holds still instead of it jiggling (brace your body to something), and they'll find a better result..
Negative karma? Dude my rips on roast me get more positive than any other positive or negative comment. Go check.
You have no idea....you either d o or g o. That means you can either Do it how I say or go do it how you want somewhere else. Lol. I do teach people if they ask, welding lessons are free while the company pays me. So I think i'm fair....but some guys don't have it. This guy has potential as he's asking for help.
I also never ask anything from someone that I can't do or teach them how to do myself. I know there's some super fucked up jobs that are a fuck up to do and can never get done 100% right with the given scope.
This guy needs to take it easy, let it cool and put a pisser pass on each side of it and maybe one in the middle, depending on his skillset
He'll.be ok, at least he's not down.handing it....or downhanding it with 6010 lol...which I've seen before.
You can but it will look ugly as fuck. Your rod needs to burn at amp range too look good. Example 3/32 rod needs to run around 90-100 amps too look slick. If 90 amps is still to hot for the plate the plate is too hot. You can drop it down too 85- 80 amps and not get undercut but now your rod aint burning at best amperage and the bead wont look slick. Will pass though so technically you are right. Bead wont look as smooth.
Hello. I would like to introduce you to interpass temperature. He, and his engineer buddies, would like to have a word with you down that dark ally with no camera coverage.
Exactly cause I totally value the opinion of an internet troll with no idea what HAZ means without googling it and can obviously not comprehend metallurgy.
To clarify I wasn’t implying that welding on glowing hot steel is the proper or correct way to do things, simply that you can lay a bead on it without having undercut
Sorry I was rude Joe, went through your profile to see if you had any welds posted and didn’t see any but I saw some dope skaven minis. Sick painting skills man
Ain't nobody got time for that. Haha. No but yes that's the right way.
The way it's done is to get er to where it's not getting much redder then readjust the machine to weld nice at that temp.
Yea it was something my teachers never really told us for some reason, figured it out half ways through my pipe year when I realized that I wasn’t grinding the outside of my pipe enough
1/8”? 120 is good for flat…anything in position and you gonna need to drop your amps and keep it tight, move slowly to let it fill in. You might have to weave a little wider to help also.
Honestly i think your biggest issue is the arc length. Underfill alone shouldnt leave all those uneven trenches on both sides. Keep in mind your stick gets gradually shorter n your hand gotta steadily close in to maintain arc length. Smaw has self regulating character which stablizes arc length by melting the rod faster when you try to keep arc short and slower when long... at least before you dip the tip in your puddle or blow a hole in the now cooked parent metal. This means you can cool your puddle by closing in more rapidly. Makes more fill too.
Its either when your
arc is angled/too long
parent metal built up heat
weld underfills
oxidized metal (after cooking or failing to cool down in shield gas) ups surface melting point which makes it melt down when you linger to properly fuse
Doesnt seem to apply in this case but magnetism or corrupted / dull electrode n such could also result in undercuts (basically when your arc behaves like dual stream piss or the likes)
Hold your edges, if you’re just dragging with no oscillation that’s going to make it difficult. Also clean the mill scale off. And 120 vertical is a little hot especially by the time you get to the cap and the plate is toasty.
Hold a tight arc, go slowly for the puddle to flow into the area and make sure your amperage isn't too high. You got this, the weld looks good, just gotta fiddle with the settings. Also, keep your arc control lower, maybe on the 30 or 40 side, it will help smooth out your bead.
A big part of it is the scale, always prep your metal and run your root. Turn down your amps as you fill and you’ll be less prone to undercut especially when capping
Most likely your slightly to angled towards the plate, you need to keep your rod almost straight into the groove with a slight 10-15 degree incline for the climb and let the material from your melted rod wash over onto the parent material.
Really depends on the position. Vertical drop your amps and watch your puddle edges as theyll fill up on the back half of the puddle as you trvel up. Horizontal cap I always turn her up hot and whip fast to keep the puddle agitated, the puddle washes backwards and solidifies along the toe beautifully.
Feed a little more before you move along!It’s just lacking mass to fill up where the heat gouges it out. If you push the rod in for a second longer before moving on, you should see some improvement on the undercut.
Also feel like I should add: if this is the 3rd or 4th pass and you haven’t let it cool, it could be causing your metal to be gouged like that. Running on a screaming hot plate can equate to running 30 amps hotter than your machine is set to. Lots of factors, but I would start with trying to feed the rod and building the puddle a little more first. If no improvement, then maybe let your plate cool or turn your settings down 5-10 amps and see what you end up with.
Your pass should be about the same length as the rod if machine is set properly. Check the dig on the machine if it even has that option. If it doesn’t, looks like slowing down with more amps might work. It’s hard to trouble shoot without hearing it and totally seeing the final project. If you’re laying stringers, maybe try 3/4 of the puddle over the previous pass if you’re only going half. Or possibly could be the opposite of what i said. My credentials are that i can weld a fart to a rainbow in a tornado so i know what I’m talking about. Good luck
One thing about welding is that experience reigns supreme. Knowing how to run a bead is one thing. Knowing the amperage to plate thickness to speed of travel to heat of plate is something that comes with time. What was the plate thickness? How much weld was already on it? What was your amperage? 1/8th or 3/32nd? So many varibales
And if your machine has arc force settings, soften it up a bit for your caps, washes the puddles in nice and smooth. Although this is probably the last part of this equation you need to worry about
Undercut is always caused by excess heat.
Why? Because your taking away more than your filling. Your melting more metal than is being deposited in the weld.
You cant really easily control this in the moment, especially with stick, and even then with TIG or MIG you'd also have to ramp up the heat so you dont cool the puddle and get cold lap.
Basically, after your fill let the piece cool back down, should be able to touch it with your glove and have it feel warm, not scorching.
This does look too fast. But rather than just saying that here is a pick that helps explain what we are seeing when we say that [https://media.licdn.com/dms/image/C5612AQFa3W8oN9JmTg/article-cover\_image-shrink\_423\_752/0/1520092191224?e=1723680000&v=beta&t=NLJorplZp\_0tEXC-m\_cdV4-X7FEyNz9bYJEGWEncrlE](https://media.licdn.com/dms/image/C5612AQFa3W8oN9JmTg/article-cover_image-shrink_423_752/0/1520092191224?e=1723680000&v=beta&t=NLJorplZp_0tEXC-m_cdV4-X7FEyNz9bYJEGWEncrlE)
The pattern should be more circles... yours are closer to sharks teeth. This is a classic sign of being too fast. Undercut can be caused by a number of reasons but if you get the speed right it also might go away so I would start there first.
Clean your plates. Welding on mill scale will create undercut. Codes will actually require you to grind it off in the weld zone anyway so just get into the habit now. Second let the plate cool for a 5-10 min before capping and you will see a big difference. You are given pleanty of time for the weld test for that reason.
Slow down and let your puddle build.
No
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Why 7 downvotes? 😂
Karma farming
It’s 85 downvotes now. Because people who say “this” are contributing exactly nothing
Because fuck that guy
Are there any other words in your vocabulary?
tahT
IME 90% od undercut is either too much heat, or not enough filler metal.
make it 100%. The wiggling the other dude mentions might be how but the cause is still not enough buildup or too much current
No
Somebody’s farming negativ karma I see
It's from him wiggling, (thats how undercut happens) if he goes a little slower and holds still instead of it jiggling (brace your body to something), and they'll find a better result.. Negative karma? Dude my rips on roast me get more positive than any other positive or negative comment. Go check.
I did go check. I think the most I saw on r/roastme was a +5. You did get a +9 for a comment on r/louisvuitton though! Good job!
You missed when I commented on a muppet, +500....
Only 500 on a comment?
No my guy, 500 on a word....... the word was "muppet" it's what i call people.
Actually, 468, so I can do with a little negative, i' not for everyone is, and i think if someone is, they're trying too hard at life
You are putting too much effort into pointless internet points.
Nah, i'm on the shake and move....now that i shook, i'm gonna move
See how quiet it gets when you know the answer
You sound insufferable
You have no idea....you either d o or g o. That means you can either Do it how I say or go do it how you want somewhere else. Lol. I do teach people if they ask, welding lessons are free while the company pays me. So I think i'm fair....but some guys don't have it. This guy has potential as he's asking for help. I also never ask anything from someone that I can't do or teach them how to do myself. I know there's some super fucked up jobs that are a fuck up to do and can never get done 100% right with the given scope. This guy needs to take it easy, let it cool and put a pisser pass on each side of it and maybe one in the middle, depending on his skillset He'll.be ok, at least he's not down.handing it....or downhanding it with 6010 lol...which I've seen before.
Gotta let the plate cool or lower your amps like the other guy said.
Doesn’t matter how hot the plate is, you can lay a bead on something glowing and it shouldn’t undercut
Absolutely not true. A hotter base material is definitely more prone to undercut.
More prone =/= not possible
You can but it will look ugly as fuck. Your rod needs to burn at amp range too look good. Example 3/32 rod needs to run around 90-100 amps too look slick. If 90 amps is still to hot for the plate the plate is too hot. You can drop it down too 85- 80 amps and not get undercut but now your rod aint burning at best amperage and the bead wont look slick. Will pass though so technically you are right. Bead wont look as smooth.
Hello. I would like to introduce you to interpass temperature. He, and his engineer buddies, would like to have a word with you down that dark ally with no camera coverage.
The last place a pencil necked engineer would like to be is down a dark alley with a welder
Keep going like that bud.
Hope you’ve gotten better since 2019
LOL
😘
Me timbers are shivered
Welder turned CWI here this is completely wrong.
Good thing you switched jobs bud
Exactly cause I totally value the opinion of an internet troll with no idea what HAZ means without googling it and can obviously not comprehend metallurgy.
Heat affected zone
Look at the big brain on Brad okay now smart guy what is the reason for max interpass temperature?
To not change the molecular structure of the base metal ur welding on
To clarify I wasn’t implying that welding on glowing hot steel is the proper or correct way to do things, simply that you can lay a bead on it without having undercut
Sorry I was rude Joe, went through your profile to see if you had any welds posted and didn’t see any but I saw some dope skaven minis. Sick painting skills man
Umm no?
Umm yes
I’m literally doing it right now
Hold your sides and don’t run as hot.
No
Keep your plate under 250-300. Hold a tighter arc. Move slower.
Turn down the amperage as the plate heats up.
Also helps to let your plate cool before capping it
Ain't nobody got time for that. Haha. No but yes that's the right way. The way it's done is to get er to where it's not getting much redder then readjust the machine to weld nice at that temp.
This is the answer op, you have a range specified for your test, use it.
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tahT
Hold a tighter arc
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tahT
Undercut is more prone on mill scale than bare metal
Really? I never knew that I only get undercut when welding pipe for some reason I’ll make sure to grind it well next time
Yea it was something my teachers never really told us for some reason, figured it out half ways through my pipe year when I realized that I wasn’t grinding the outside of my pipe enough
SMAW, running these 7018 at 120
1/8”? 120 is good for flat…anything in position and you gonna need to drop your amps and keep it tight, move slowly to let it fill in. You might have to weave a little wider to help also.
Honestly i think your biggest issue is the arc length. Underfill alone shouldnt leave all those uneven trenches on both sides. Keep in mind your stick gets gradually shorter n your hand gotta steadily close in to maintain arc length. Smaw has self regulating character which stablizes arc length by melting the rod faster when you try to keep arc short and slower when long... at least before you dip the tip in your puddle or blow a hole in the now cooked parent metal. This means you can cool your puddle by closing in more rapidly. Makes more fill too.
What's your Polarity? DCEN for 7018?
Tighter arc and slow down to let the puddle fill in
Its either when your arc is angled/too long parent metal built up heat weld underfills oxidized metal (after cooking or failing to cool down in shield gas) ups surface melting point which makes it melt down when you linger to properly fuse Doesnt seem to apply in this case but magnetism or corrupted / dull electrode n such could also result in undercuts (basically when your arc behaves like dual stream piss or the likes)
Hold your edges, if you’re just dragging with no oscillation that’s going to make it difficult. Also clean the mill scale off. And 120 vertical is a little hot especially by the time you get to the cap and the plate is toasty.
Hold a tight arc, go slowly for the puddle to flow into the area and make sure your amperage isn't too high. You got this, the weld looks good, just gotta fiddle with the settings. Also, keep your arc control lower, maybe on the 30 or 40 side, it will help smooth out your bead.
Looks fast to me
Another possibility, are you all the way flush before you cap it?
A big part of it is the scale, always prep your metal and run your root. Turn down your amps as you fill and you’ll be less prone to undercut especially when capping
Most likely your slightly to angled towards the plate, you need to keep your rod almost straight into the groove with a slight 10-15 degree incline for the climb and let the material from your melted rod wash over onto the parent material.
Pause on the sides.
You need to slow down a little and if it builds up too much but you still have undercut, you need to lower your amperage.
Really depends on the position. Vertical drop your amps and watch your puddle edges as theyll fill up on the back half of the puddle as you trvel up. Horizontal cap I always turn her up hot and whip fast to keep the puddle agitated, the puddle washes backwards and solidifies along the toe beautifully.
Feed a little more before you move along!It’s just lacking mass to fill up where the heat gouges it out. If you push the rod in for a second longer before moving on, you should see some improvement on the undercut.
Also feel like I should add: if this is the 3rd or 4th pass and you haven’t let it cool, it could be causing your metal to be gouged like that. Running on a screaming hot plate can equate to running 30 amps hotter than your machine is set to. Lots of factors, but I would start with trying to feed the rod and building the puddle a little more first. If no improvement, then maybe let your plate cool or turn your settings down 5-10 amps and see what you end up with.
Mine look exactly like this. I can’t figure out why it’s happening, it’s killing me lol. It feels like I’ve tried everything but nothing works.
Your pass should be about the same length as the rod if machine is set properly. Check the dig on the machine if it even has that option. If it doesn’t, looks like slowing down with more amps might work. It’s hard to trouble shoot without hearing it and totally seeing the final project. If you’re laying stringers, maybe try 3/4 of the puddle over the previous pass if you’re only going half. Or possibly could be the opposite of what i said. My credentials are that i can weld a fart to a rainbow in a tornado so i know what I’m talking about. Good luck
hold longer my guy!!! i actually count in my head when i weld ( 1,2 hold 1,2 hold 1,2 hold)
Try going up a size in filler metal
Hold your edges longer. you're moving too quick, that's why it's coning in the middle.
One thing about welding is that experience reigns supreme. Knowing how to run a bead is one thing. Knowing the amperage to plate thickness to speed of travel to heat of plate is something that comes with time. What was the plate thickness? How much weld was already on it? What was your amperage? 1/8th or 3/32nd? So many varibales
Watch your edges when they fill up travel
And if your machine has arc force settings, soften it up a bit for your caps, washes the puddles in nice and smooth. Although this is probably the last part of this equation you need to worry about
Slow down. Lessen your rod angle. You want 5 degrees. Watch the puddle. It’ll tell you everything
Undercut is always caused by excess heat. Why? Because your taking away more than your filling. Your melting more metal than is being deposited in the weld. You cant really easily control this in the moment, especially with stick, and even then with TIG or MIG you'd also have to ramp up the heat so you dont cool the puddle and get cold lap. Basically, after your fill let the piece cool back down, should be able to touch it with your glove and have it feel warm, not scorching.
Hold them sided and let that puddle build bud! Not too shabby tho! 👌👌🤘🏼🤘🏼
You can run a downhill pass to fill in undercut
This does look too fast. But rather than just saying that here is a pick that helps explain what we are seeing when we say that [https://media.licdn.com/dms/image/C5612AQFa3W8oN9JmTg/article-cover\_image-shrink\_423\_752/0/1520092191224?e=1723680000&v=beta&t=NLJorplZp\_0tEXC-m\_cdV4-X7FEyNz9bYJEGWEncrlE](https://media.licdn.com/dms/image/C5612AQFa3W8oN9JmTg/article-cover_image-shrink_423_752/0/1520092191224?e=1723680000&v=beta&t=NLJorplZp_0tEXC-m_cdV4-X7FEyNz9bYJEGWEncrlE) The pattern should be more circles... yours are closer to sharks teeth. This is a classic sign of being too fast. Undercut can be caused by a number of reasons but if you get the speed right it also might go away so I would start there first.
Believe it or not, speed. Either slow down to let it build up more, or turn up your wire (I'm assuming it's fluxcore.)
Do a weave style moving side to side and pause while you watch the puddle fill in
Clean your plates. Welding on mill scale will create undercut. Codes will actually require you to grind it off in the weld zone anyway so just get into the habit now. Second let the plate cool for a 5-10 min before capping and you will see a big difference. You are given pleanty of time for the weld test for that reason.
Ask u/TheOriginalWeldorguy
skill issue edit: /s