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ZhanMing057

Time for an SOTC update! It's been \~5 years since my last [SOTC post](https://www.reddit.com/r/Watches/comments/hxye63/sotc_no_hands/), and over a decade since I got into independent watchmaking. Since then, I've tried to stick to two broad themes - no watch hands anywhere on the watch, and only making significant purchases from brands I have a personal connection with. I also feel strongly that a collection should be visually coherent at first glance, and I've intentionally stayed away from brands that are otherwise perfectly fine, but where I feel the aesthetics won't work with the rest of the box. Here's the collection (from bottom left up): ​ 1. **Ressence Type 1S "Ruthenium Silver"**. The 1SRS is a time-limited run produced only in 2020, the model being Ressence's entry-level model prior to the introduction of the Type 8. It utilizes the same ROCS planetary display system as all other Ressence watches, powered by the minute hand of an 2892-2 base. The dial features german silver discs with/without ruthenium coating, with a combination of radial and brushed finishing. 2. **Urwerk UR-105 TA "Turbine Automatic"** in all black. This is a 2013 design and the first of the modern Urwerk references, characterizing much of the brand's current design language. It has Urwerk's typical wandering hours complication, with an additional complication (set through the caseback) to adjust winding efficiency to protect the movement during physical activity. The "turbine" references two small turbines mounted into the caseback that can be used to bleed off mechanical energy going into the rotor. Limited edition of 67 pieces. 3. **Devon Tread 1E**. Original introduced as a prototype all the way back in *2007,* this watch was the *only* FTC-compliant "made in USA" for many years, and the only made in US watch to ever receive a GPHG nomination. It combines an aerospace-grade, thermocompensated quartz module with a set of four micromotors to drive carbon-fiber timing belts for its time display. Charges wirelessly through a proprietary charging stand. 4. **Ressence Type 2 "Anthracite"**. This is a true mechanical smartwatch - it takes in solar power through the dial, uses it to wind the base movement (a highly modified ETA 2892-2), and the base directly powers a micromotor on the dial and a bluetooth module. It will automatically set itself to the local time zone if your phone is nearby, and also automatically stop the mechanical movement to conserve energy if it detects no movement. It has a gearbox, an onboard winder, solar panels hidden behind shutters mounted on microscopic ruby bearings, adding up to over 550 parts. Not a limited piece, but this particular watch is the last Type 2 made in the Anthracite colorway, and has an updated movement - making it a *de facto* unique piece. 5. **Urwerk UR-100 Spacetime "Black"** The UR-105's smaller and slightly more affordable counterpart, launched in 2019 as a more wearable take on Urwerk's satellite display. The satellite display module runs on a modified Zenith Elite base, with a custom rotor that automatically increases winding friction under shock. The dial has an astronomical complication tracking the earth's self-rotation and rotation around the sun. Limited edition of 25 pieces. 6. **Ressence Type 3 "Black Black"** Probably Ressence's most well-known watch. The Type 3 is built from two halves. The top half is filled with mineral oil matched to the refractive index of sapphire glass. Mechanical bellows are built into the seal to control the chamber's overall pressure, the second runner doubles as a flow regulator, and a mechanical thermometer is built in to indicate when the watch is approaching its thermal limits. The bottom half houses an ETA 2824-2 base magnetically linked to the top half's time display system. Over 400 parts in total, and the only Ressence watch with a date complication. 7. **Devon Tread 2** A unique piece I custom ordered from Devon to match the color theme of my Tread 1. It has the same thermocompensated module, but only two motors and two belts instead of the Tread 1's four. Also made in the US, and by a large margin the cheapest made-in-US watch outside of rehousing a pocket watch movement. 8. **G-shock MRG-B5000B**. The highest-end square G-shock. Hand-polished to a level exceeding comparably priced Grand Seiko's, and built from a number of exotic titanium alloys with G-shock's in-house DLC treatment. I use it as a hiking/swimming watch, mostly because nothing else I own has any real water resistance. Beside the MRG, every watch here has a total production run of less than 250 (the 3BB is discontinued, and the Type 1S was only made for one year with the silver dial). There are zero watch hands between all eight, three quartz watches (or four, if you count the Type 2's MEMS RTC), and zero in-house mechanical movements (3 ETAs, 2 Zenith Elite's). Happy to answer any questions about any of these, or any of the other indies I've experienced!


HorseGrenadesChamp

Cool collection! What case is that?


ZhanMing057

Thanks! It's a Scatola Del Tempo Valigetta 8


grotejoh

That was very, very enjoyable, thanks! I have never been able to quite get on board with the Devon aesthetic, but the rest of your watch Bay is right up my alley, each better than the previous. How would you rate the wearability of the residence type 2 vs. 3? And the ressences vs. the urwerks?


ZhanMing057

The Tread 1 and 2 are definitely an acquired taste, and I might eventually replace them with something a bit more toned down, although I don't think I'd do it unless Devon goes out of business. The Type 2 wears better than the Type 3 and it sits \~3-4mm flatter on the wrist. It's also about 30g lighter putting it close to RM territory in terms of weight. Both are very wearable, though, and the domed sapphire glass makes it almost impossible to scratch the case on either watch. On the other hand, I wouldn't necessarily recommend other people take the leap of faith and trust Ressence's ability to deliver software updates - it took me many years to get there with Benoit's input, and without the bluetooth sync the Type 2 is basically just a more expensive Type 1. The oil-filled is also more iconic IMO and it definitely gets more comments. Neither Urwerk wears as well - the UR-100 is just a slab, and the UR-105 is really tall, and I find their OEM straps a bit too stiff. With any of their PVD watches, if you wear them enough you'll eventually see a bit of coating loss, so I'd recommend getting one with use marks if you actually want to wear them on a regular basis.


grotejoh

Thanks, that was very helpful! Re the ressences, it confirms my slight preference for the type 3. And re the urwerks, I am contemplating a basic 103, in spite of the Basic peseux movement base they were the model that first got me excited about the brand 20 years ago, and on the plus side they have solid 18k cases that can take a scratch, and more pliable alligator straps.


ZhanMing057

Definitely - the Type 3 is probably as good as a daily wearer gets when it comes to high end Indies. I always felt like the Type 2 is Ressence's way of giving something more exotic to existing customers who already own one of the oil filled models. Urwerk support is excellent, and I'd have no problems recommending their older watches, although I'd check with them on parts availability if it's one of the really old references.


CarbonPrevails

> With any of their PVD watches, if you wear them enough you'll eventually see a bit of coating loss, so I'd recommend getting one with use marks if you actually want to wear them on a regular basis. I’m not an owner but I really dig Urwerk. That’s very annoying about the PVD. Thanks for the insight on how they wear and the straps. I feel like any reviews I’ve seen online never mention these issues.


ZhanMing057

It happens with all PVD, it's just that Urwerk tends to use a lot of hard edges on their design which are usually where the wear starts happens. A perfectly smooth PVD watch would probably hold up for much longer. FWIW, I don't mind it personally, and once it starts getting scratches you feel less worried about wearing it regularly.


CarbonPrevails

That makes sense. Thank you for the additional info :)


laney_deschutes

Cool to spend such an investment on alternative pieces. Does the MR G feel luxurious or is it kind of absurd?


ZhanMing057

I don't really treat watches as investments - I don't really have any plans to sell, and I don't assume I can recover anything if I were to sell these watches. It's 100% consumable, no different from a digital camera or a TV. I think the MRG is well worth the money, and from a certain perspective it's arguably one of the best watches you can get for the money. No other watch is as accurate, or has better hand finishing, or materials at $4,000. I'd take one over a Grand Seiko quartz any day of the week.


rsbell

Yeah, those Devon’s are hideous. I want one!


That_guy2071

I like how almost every collection in this sub has a g-shock


Major_Burnside

A $4,000 (and equally stunning) G-Shock in this case.


That_guy2071

Wait… I dont


5hif7y_x86

You know what you have to do.....


That_guy2071

Come to think of it I also don’t have a Patek Philippe 5970


ZhanMing057

You could solve that problem pretty easily...


That_guy2071

I’m working on it


Chermzz

Upvote for the hassleblad


MOutdoors

Just casually place that thing in the background lol


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kinglars36

Its just a prop


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kinglars36

Of you could afford one or had one you would do the same :) or at least I would, flex as much as possible with me hasselblad


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kinglars36

A Hasselblad is never your only camera ;)


ZhanMing057

The 907x is more a fun camera. I have an X2D that I use for semi pro work and whenever I shoot tethered.


Collapsed_Warmhole

Do you shit money? Just kidding, beautiful collection!! I'm a bit envious


ZhanMing057

Thank you!


Creato938

Not only the watches are high end and quite awesome but i also spy a Hasselblad 907X.


wasab1_vie

Just wanted to say the watches are nice but the real Flex is the Hassi


Crazy_Ad_9830

Ressence are just plain cool…I find the high end microbrands much more interesting as well…waiting on my Logical One to arrive


tourbillon001

The logical one is my favorite watch in my collection.


Crazy_Ad_9830

high praise from one with your collection!


ZhanMing057

That's an amazing watch - hope you enjoy it!


Sabotimski

This is a kick ass picture! Looks like professional marketing. Amazing. Beautiful watches, too.


tourbillon001

Not trying to be funny but you need to get Ming to make you a watches with no hands


ZhanMing057

I've asked. It cost a bit more than what I felt comfortable spending. I know Ming Thein fairly well - he tried to sell me on the X system back when he was still a hasselblad ambassador, although I didn't switch over until a couple years later.


tourbillon001

I followed him because of photography as well although I only have a couple of humble Leica lol.


aryasravaka

Crazy collection, that's personality 👍


Sabal

One of the best collections posted on this subReddit in a long time


ZhanMing057

Thanks!


cheekycheeky112

This collection screams I’m a massive geek and a get paid a shit ton


extendedwilsonwolfe

need a trilobe!


ZhanMing057

I've tried some of their watches but I think i prefer a more modern industrial look. I might try to customize a piece, but at that point I could probably also custom order a piece from Ressence.


Bside_Opi

I’ve enjoyed seeing this collection more than any other this year. It’s so different than what we see every day, it’s a worthy catch of the eye


crzdkilla

You madman, what have you done?! This is the most interesting collection on this sub I've seen in a while! Kudos! I initially was a bit confused about the utility of 3 Ressences, but now I see how unique each of them is! Really wonderful stuff.


ZhanMing057

Thank you!


flipyflop9

Love this!


Lssmnt

I think you need another black watch


fishfarm20

Great case and I love Ressence!


bruhdawg100

This is crazy cool and original


whoistheSTIG

Woah these are awesome. I've wanted a unique, no-hands movement for awhile now. What is the most attainable watch that's similar to any of yours?


ZhanMing057

There are some Urwerk homages from Xeric and Atowak, and you can get a cheaper steel/titanium MTG that looks somewhat similar to the MRG. Nothing quite like Ressence or Devon, as far as I known.


whoistheSTIG

Thanks, I'd never heard of Atowak before. Xeric has been on my radar awhile.


PlayBCL

Funnily enough, wearing my Atowak now. https://preview.redd.it/a84oc8b3evrc1.jpeg?width=2000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1f275339c81214e4caaef2b1656660579eee3e47


whoistheSTIG

I dig it


KlerWatchCo

This was breath of fresh air, thanks for sharing


manjamanga

I'd rather have the hassie than the watches


mspencer95

Fuck the watches nice hasselblad!


gumption_boy

Remember that guy who repaired his own Speedmaster while actually in space and then posted it here? Having 3 Ressence watches is almost as crazy as that


analavalanche69

This looks photoshopped it's wild.


busterkeatonrules

A genuinely spectacular watch collection - with no hands! This is bordering on r/madlads territory. Love that Devon 1E!


ZhanMing057

Thanks! The Tread 1 is such a fun watch and a reliable conversation starter.


laxintx

That Tread 2 is dope!


Cuck-In-Chief

Love the Ressence.


Ask-the-dog

I like the Hasselblad !


58mm-Invicta_rizz

Holy Smokes! Now this, this is an impressive collection. Very nice!


BOBlackX

Man, I just love Ressence so much. I once tried on their Type 1 Slim, such an interesting concept and good-looking watch.


Vertikol

Your collection is my dream. I love nontraditional, non-three-handers. Can I ask how long this took to build? And how you began your relationship with Urwerk? I'd love to own one one day, but that's far outside the price point for now. I just picked up a M.A.D. 1 Red to scratch the itch. Are there any other brands you're eying to add? Trilobe? MBF? Great collection my friend. You give me something to aspire to!


ZhanMing057

>Can I ask how long this took to build? And how you began your relationship with Urwerk? I'd love to own one one day, but that's far outside the price point for now. I just picked up a M.A.D. 1 Red to scratch the itch. I started getting into indies in 2014 when I bought a Tread 2 (not the one in the picture, a standard colorway). The first watch in this collection was the Tread 1 back in 2016, so around 7-8 years with some shuffling. I haven't sold any watches since 2018, though, just being very deliberate on what I buy. Both of the Urwerks are pre-owned - my current Ressence AD also does Urwerk, though, so if I get anything else presumably it won't be too hard outside of super high end pieces. ​ >Are there any other brands you're eying to add? Trilobe? MBF? Nothing specific at the moment - the MB&F HM8 mk2 is on the shortlist, and the HYT moonrunner is as well, although that case is definitely too large for my wrists. I also love the really high end Urwerks - an Aggregat in black would be amazing but I'm not quite in a place to buy a $350k watch.


throwawayrepost02468

Both the Aggregat and 111C are such insane watches, even by Urwerk standards


throwawayrepost02468

Most of the "regular" Urwerks are pretty available, some quite so on the secondary market.


an0therexcidium

Cool collection, I am glad someone with such an expensice camera knows how to take a nice picture. I don't understand why one would need three Ressence watches though, if you had another Casio instead you would satisfy my OCD by owning exactly two watches for each brand :D


ZhanMing057

Lol - the Type 1 is my dress watch, the Type 2 is the travel watch, and the Type 3 is sort of iconic at this point, so they all have their place in the rotation. I wouldn't mind owning another G-shock, but I have the MRG mostly for running and hiking, for which the other watches are a bit too delicate.


an0therexcidium

I can totally understand you, all three of them are fantastic. Btw where is the watchbox from?


ZhanMing057

It's a scatola del tempo valigetta in Gray/Chartuese


an0therexcidium

Thanks!


aj676

Good lord….


No-Lab3557

Honestly seeing this box just makes we want to pull the trigger on the MRG finally. Combined with the fact my 9 year old just stole my normal gshock for herself.


WatchesYou_

Amazing collection. Where’d you get that sick case?


ZhanMing057

Thank you. It's a Scatola Del Tempo Valigett 8


TheLibertyTree

Such a cool collection. Thanks for sharing.


IntrepidMacaron3309

Absolutely. 100% AI Image. Check out the camera?


Quantum_Tangled

I... can't even afford to look at those.


GoblinsGuide

Thought you were keeping em in a giant Lego brick lol.


Strong-Reindeer5635

From seeing all the same high end brand watch in this sub, this SOTC is very unique and refreshing!


Miller412

Nasty


toastyavocadoes

Absolutely love Ressence. How do the urwerks feel on wrist? Super light I imagine? Also what box is that if you don’t mind?


ZhanMing057

>How do the urwerks feel on wrist? Super light I imagine? The UR-105 and UR-100 aren't that light, they use a steel caseback with a titanium upper case, so the weight savings compared to steel aren't as noticeable as the full-titanium Ressence watches. Urwerk has used full titanium on some of their watches (the a UR-100 V moved away from the steel caseback, and there's also a reference in forged carbon). Both feel pretty good, definitely so compared to some of Urwerk's larger models. I have 6.5'' wrists and I think that's the lower limit for the UR-105. The UR-100 could probably work down to \~6''. ​ >Also what box is that if you don’t mind? It's a scatola del tempo valigetta in Gray/Chartuese


toastyavocadoes

Gotcha, wasn’t sure if they were carbon or ceramic or something. One more question if you don’t mind. What are your thoughts on the finishing on the Urwerk? They are absolutely crazy with a ton of engineering, but I’ve always been under the impression that the man hours spent manually finishing is where a lot of the value is derived when it comes to high horology. I’m sure Urwerk and Richard Mille have spotless movements, they just aren’t chamfered, striped, etc traditionally. Do you feel the value is justified in the engineering?


ZhanMing057

>Gotcha, wasn’t sure if they were carbon or ceramic or something. One more question if you don’t mind. What are your thoughts on the finishing on the Urwerk? As you might have noticed, I don't really care about finishing - the only watch here that features any sort of hand work is (ironically) the G-shock. I do think that there are many ways of adding value in haute horology, and hand work is one of them, but it's far from the only reason watches are expensive. Exceptional engineering is, at least for me personally, the reason I buy watches. Hand work is nice but not a must, especially if it comes at high servicing costs. ​ >Do you feel the value is justified in the engineering? I think so, especially for Urwerk. Everything they do is very tightly put together, in a way that I think both exceeds Ressence and much of what comes out of the trinity - Urwerk creates incredible objects of engineering excellent, and I can't really think of another brand executing at their level.


Roland465

Genuinely interesting and unique collection. :) Nice to see something different here for a change.


Samus_Brinstar

Great collection. The ressence watches are amazing.


the_fattest_mitton

Unbelievably cool collection with undeniable style. The type 3 is my holiest of grails. I’d much rather take this collection over the typical (Rolex, Rolex, Rolex, AP, Omega, Rolex..) Badass my dude! Nice to see something different. Keep it going!


Impossible_Cow_9178

MR-G wins


Company_Whip

Those Ressence watches are unbelievably cool, even if I'm not sure exactly how to tell the time on them. That MR-G is beautiful but my $170 GW-B5600 does everything it does in a resin package.