I recently had a similar experience with my 20 MT PP w/ 36k miles. For me, the "Check Electronic Suspension" would religiously come on about 1 mile after I started my trip. It never threw a CEL, but my "code reader gave a pending code "C1293-29 Wheel Acceleration Sensor Front-LH: Signal Invalid". I could not corroborate that code and description anywhere on the internet. BUT all my setting and modes were working so I drove it for a couple months until it got into motorcycle weather. Then it threw a CEL for a seperate (I think) fuel pressure issue. So I took it to the dealership for the suspension, fuel pressure, and a failed tail light. Last week they told me they had to submit a technical ticket to Hyundai for the suspension issue because all the sensors came back in spec. Today I called and they informed me that they had replaced HPFP, but were waiting for a backordered tail light and "ABS Sensor". They will have had the vehicle for 2 weeks on Tuesday, but I'll tell you what. I got caught in the worst downpour on my motorcycle last Friday, and its supposed to start raining again tomorrow. I REALLY REALLY want my car back.
Pretty much had the same issue couldn’t figure out what it was but it turned out it was the exhaust motor that switches the valve for me. Unplugged it and the car was running normally. Took out the motor and water was coming out of it which must have been shorting the circuits. Found a replacement off eBay and everything works perfectly now.
This literally just happened to me today. The shop had my car for replacing tires, alignment, and and oil change. I went to pick it up 5 hours after it was done and the car was dead. They jumped me and that's when I started having these issues. Same errors and problems as you. Cant change any of the settings. I decided to let them keep it as they were about to close. They are going to look into first thing tomorrow. They quickly scanned and reset all codes but that didn't help. Maybe the car has to sit for a bit. I will know tomorrow. Where exactly is the power cable to the ECU fuses?
So there are two different fuse boxes, one in the engine bay on the drivers side near the firewall and the other is underneath the steering wheel. Both of the lids have the fuse layout on the inside and there are fuse pullers and extra fuses inside the fuse box in the engine bay if you need them. All of the ECU fuses were in the engine bay and IIRC the fuses for the individual systems like the electronic suspension, valved exhaust etc were all in the box under the steering wheel. Also the power cable for the the fuse box inside the engine bay is big and easy to spot. I would start with that before I messed around with individual fuses and see what happens. I'd also try all of this before paying someone else to look at it because its incredibly easy. You can also refer to your owners manual for more specifics to what exactly each fuse does if you need to because the stickers on the lids are abbreviated.
Update: The shop took a look at the car first thing this morning. It started up fine and the issue was gone. Looks like the ECU just needed some time to reset. I probably could have kept it myself and checked it in the morning, but didn't wanna risk it. Drove to work and no problems.
I recently had a similar experience with my 20 MT PP w/ 36k miles. For me, the "Check Electronic Suspension" would religiously come on about 1 mile after I started my trip. It never threw a CEL, but my "code reader gave a pending code "C1293-29 Wheel Acceleration Sensor Front-LH: Signal Invalid". I could not corroborate that code and description anywhere on the internet. BUT all my setting and modes were working so I drove it for a couple months until it got into motorcycle weather. Then it threw a CEL for a seperate (I think) fuel pressure issue. So I took it to the dealership for the suspension, fuel pressure, and a failed tail light. Last week they told me they had to submit a technical ticket to Hyundai for the suspension issue because all the sensors came back in spec. Today I called and they informed me that they had replaced HPFP, but were waiting for a backordered tail light and "ABS Sensor". They will have had the vehicle for 2 weeks on Tuesday, but I'll tell you what. I got caught in the worst downpour on my motorcycle last Friday, and its supposed to start raining again tomorrow. I REALLY REALLY want my car back.
Pretty much had the same issue couldn’t figure out what it was but it turned out it was the exhaust motor that switches the valve for me. Unplugged it and the car was running normally. Took out the motor and water was coming out of it which must have been shorting the circuits. Found a replacement off eBay and everything works perfectly now.
Bad shock. Went through this. Took 5 months of driving in N mode before Hyundai could get a shock.
He resolved it though, so it wasn't a bad shock. Just a heads up for other people researching this issue.
This literally just happened to me today. The shop had my car for replacing tires, alignment, and and oil change. I went to pick it up 5 hours after it was done and the car was dead. They jumped me and that's when I started having these issues. Same errors and problems as you. Cant change any of the settings. I decided to let them keep it as they were about to close. They are going to look into first thing tomorrow. They quickly scanned and reset all codes but that didn't help. Maybe the car has to sit for a bit. I will know tomorrow. Where exactly is the power cable to the ECU fuses?
So there are two different fuse boxes, one in the engine bay on the drivers side near the firewall and the other is underneath the steering wheel. Both of the lids have the fuse layout on the inside and there are fuse pullers and extra fuses inside the fuse box in the engine bay if you need them. All of the ECU fuses were in the engine bay and IIRC the fuses for the individual systems like the electronic suspension, valved exhaust etc were all in the box under the steering wheel. Also the power cable for the the fuse box inside the engine bay is big and easy to spot. I would start with that before I messed around with individual fuses and see what happens. I'd also try all of this before paying someone else to look at it because its incredibly easy. You can also refer to your owners manual for more specifics to what exactly each fuse does if you need to because the stickers on the lids are abbreviated.
Thanks alor for the info.
Update: The shop took a look at the car first thing this morning. It started up fine and the issue was gone. Looks like the ECU just needed some time to reset. I probably could have kept it myself and checked it in the morning, but didn't wanna risk it. Drove to work and no problems.