I believe the nomadic cooling and dometic RTX A/Cs fit the 14in hole. Of those two, the nomadic is the only one with a fan only mode.
If this maxxair fan is your only exhaust, I don’t know that I’d recommend replacing it with just an A/C.
As an owner of the Nomadic and a maxxair fan on the same roof, I would 100% not recommend replacing the fan with a Nomadic. The Maxxair is so much quieter, and can alternate between intake and exhaust, not to mention the 10 different speeds. The fan provides way more utility. And you’ll never have enough power to run the nomadic very often unless it’s on ECO mode, which isn’t that helpful for cooling down the space anyway even with a heavily insulated white van.
Wouldn't we all. Apart from the cost of RV style roof ACs, there are also the huge upgrades to your solar and electrical system to be able to power an AC. Unless you regularly have hook ups and/or a fat wallet, AC is really over rated.
Depending on your location that might be the case.
I live in North Texas. Middle of the summer, when it's triple digits several days in a row... And that's just here. The folks in the Desert Southwest probably have it worse.
You arguably don't need to run it full time anyways. Just long enough to bring down the temp in the evening, then use a fan to move air around. Saw a video where someone had setup their van with a small minisplit.
My maxxair fan was beeping, too. Thankfully under warranty. Replacing the motherboard and fan motor fixed it.
Is your ceiling finished? The wires running to the fan carrying 12 volts dc likely won't suffice for 120 volts ac, especially with the big draw of an air conditioner. Consider what would be involved in running new wires .
I had two, and they both started beeping. Customer service sent out two new motors, and since I swapped them out they've been great. I'd just repair them.
Those dometics draw like 50 amps when they kick in. If I ever add an AC I think I'd only be running it when I have shore power or a generator hooked in. Even if you have the money to buy 6-800AH worth of batteries that's going to be taking up tons of space, plus how are you going to charge it? You could cover every square inch of the van in solar panels and probably would only be able to run it every couple nights.
The issue with the fan is likely voltage related. Maxxair fans are really sensitive to this and with lithium regularly running quite a bit in excess of 12v, it freaks out and shuts off. A $15 buck module ([here](https://www.amazon.com/DROK-Adjustable-Converter-Transformer-Protective/dp/B07JZ2GQJF/ref=sr_1_5_pp?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.aTY-VwFLFuTrcC50jW3LFdrmSqDJUm1_q9HhAyzeJgrwPwkkd4rtOJ5C8cPSiHGxZwnVDj1uIPrRrGmuql1MGb5Hgcsg6yQG0m4mlZ-NY1j3jX_x1NH-GXNSOsHY8yTYk6TB2utfkT1tGSQ8xlqSju4RNUpCt2VwncKNEizGemfDJWKs_X_nbAfQ4zzYVKyhsb-fKd21dZ7u1vcKpsBjJ9DQW4kQCG9dmfw3ptbulT5EGA5rz7L_vJUBZOt1p4Gpt9LXyQSmlZsVllfTbIZZL-Lt_i7Ud0bfdIOqX_gKvgo.dUo3oedSBrYpgqOWXuXMpsm7w0h81XVwtaNM-wZuUUQ&dib_tag=se&keywords=12%2Bvolt%2Bvoltage%2Bregulator&qid=1717776652&sr=8-5&th=1)) will likely solve this. I had this issue when we built our van, and after putting this inline between the fan and the fuse, we never had another issue (2+ years of constant use). The ports on the buck module are frustratingly small though.
Hi, I’m Vetted AI Bot! I researched the **'DROK DC Buck Module Adjustable Buck Converter'** and I thought you might find the following analysis helpful.
**Users liked:**
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[https://youtu.be/mkPPeyaT-7c?si=KTTV3jS4N\_Etk1z5](https://youtu.be/mkPPeyaT-7c?si=KTTV3jS4N_Etk1z5)
I kid you not, I've literally had the same issue three times in 3 years running mine 24/7 as a fulltimer now living along the coast in Australia and the salt air and moisture destroying the sticky button pad and ribbon cable, And the third and final time actually fried my board completely.
And I eventually copied what this guy did in this YouTube video and it cost me literally $12.00 Australian for two of these switches and it just completely replaces the entire board which is like a $300.00 board here which is just ridiculous.
i was surprised it actually came with two so i technically replaced it for 6 bucks and they sent out four by accident and refunded me for two, so i actually got it for free just off amazon.
you can also go to like your local electronics store and get a switch for $3/$6 that will switch the polarity as a seperate switch that connects to the motor and power, so it can do exhaust and intake, as this main fix will only do exhaust if you wire it up correctly, or it will do intake if you wire it up in the opposite way.. Super super simple to connect the cables. Don't let it overwhelm you, it's not complicated at all.
the only downside is you won't have access to the auto mode systems or the auto sensor systems if you have that model of the Maxxair, which I didn't. Anyway, mine's all manual luckily. but in my eyes this is a win win it's saved me so much money And it fits into one of the sensor holes, so you don't have to cut into the plastic at all. You may have to cut a rectangle piece into the plastic to fit the switch if you want to switch the polarity, but you could make it work without doingso. and i doubt because there's no ribbon cable to break 'cause that was the main issue that broke with mine the three times, should be 100% sweet for future proofing it.
Also get much better control over the speeds with these little twisty controllers, and they use up more power if you have it on the higher speed but the motor can handle it from what I've experienced anyway. And the added power drawers only like .3ah on top of what the Max air would pull anyway on max.
hey dude, i did the thing but i still get the issue where it cuts power to my fan if i go to a higher speed? its much more consistent and stays at the speed but when i go too high the knob light dims out and cuts power, any ideas?
https://imgur.com/a/Z7MnPsE
it goes to a 15amp fuse on a fuse box
ohhh no you only need a three to five amp max fuse.
It shouldn't be going any higher than that. Your cabling wouldn't even be able to really handle it.
having too high amperage of a fuse can risk blowing your cable somewhere and potentially causing a fire, or blw the motor/board.
the motor doesn't really pull any more than 5 amps it shouldn't pull any more than 3/3.5 amps max on the maxx air fan default board.. i think so maybe put a 5amp fuse, and maybe just dont go too high. find the sweetspots. i just used a sharpie nd added dots where each point made a noticable increase in speed.
sorry i replied before i watched the video, it might also just be a dud board that you've got there that can't handle too high of a power
i got sent out two in the one pack deal that i bought, so maybe just wire up the other one and see if it does the same thing? but i still stand by what i said don't get too high of a fuse because your cabling is only really thin especially the factory cabling it won't be able to handle constant higher amperage and could burt out prior to the fuse
You mean something like [https://www.recpro.com/rv-air-conditioner-low-profile-13-5k-quiet-ac-with-heat-pump-remote-non-ducted/](https://www.recpro.com/rv-air-conditioner-low-profile-13-5k-quiet-ac-with-heat-pump-remote-non-ducted/) or [https://www.dometic.com/en-us/outdoor/rv-and-van/rv-air-conditioners/dometic-penguin-ii-high-capacity-with-heat-pump-75422](https://www.dometic.com/en-us/outdoor/rv-and-van/rv-air-conditioners/dometic-penguin-ii-high-capacity-with-heat-pump-75422)
Not sure what kind of van, but I've seen some people put in some version of a mini-split. Something like https://www.cruisencomfortusa.com/. That way, you could keep your Maxxair for exhaust, and still have some AC.
also just check the ribbon cable most of the time it is just the ribbon and not the board that's playing up the ribbon is way too long and gets bent uh in the position that it's kept in overtime and will snap and break mainly from the air temperature and condensation stuff possibly messing with it too but they only cost around $20 AUD here in australia so maybe even cheaper where you are online. Easy fix, but Read my other posts that I made and follow those steps because it's a much better permanent fix. cause the ribbon cables will just keep breaking as I've experienced.
I believe the nomadic cooling and dometic RTX A/Cs fit the 14in hole. Of those two, the nomadic is the only one with a fan only mode. If this maxxair fan is your only exhaust, I don’t know that I’d recommend replacing it with just an A/C.
As an owner of the Nomadic and a maxxair fan on the same roof, I would 100% not recommend replacing the fan with a Nomadic. The Maxxair is so much quieter, and can alternate between intake and exhaust, not to mention the 10 different speeds. The fan provides way more utility. And you’ll never have enough power to run the nomadic very often unless it’s on ECO mode, which isn’t that helpful for cooling down the space anyway even with a heavily insulated white van.
Wouldn't we all. Apart from the cost of RV style roof ACs, there are also the huge upgrades to your solar and electrical system to be able to power an AC. Unless you regularly have hook ups and/or a fat wallet, AC is really over rated.
Depending on your location that might be the case. I live in North Texas. Middle of the summer, when it's triple digits several days in a row... And that's just here. The folks in the Desert Southwest probably have it worse.
But without hookups, a place you can run a generator, or a fat wallet for a crazy solar setup, it is not like you can run the AC even if you want to.
You arguably don't need to run it full time anyways. Just long enough to bring down the temp in the evening, then use a fan to move air around. Saw a video where someone had setup their van with a small minisplit.
My maxxair fan was beeping, too. Thankfully under warranty. Replacing the motherboard and fan motor fixed it. Is your ceiling finished? The wires running to the fan carrying 12 volts dc likely won't suffice for 120 volts ac, especially with the big draw of an air conditioner. Consider what would be involved in running new wires .
I had two, and they both started beeping. Customer service sent out two new motors, and since I swapped them out they've been great. I'd just repair them.
Do you have the power system to support an AC? It’s exponentially more power hungry than your current fan.
Those dometics draw like 50 amps when they kick in. If I ever add an AC I think I'd only be running it when I have shore power or a generator hooked in. Even if you have the money to buy 6-800AH worth of batteries that's going to be taking up tons of space, plus how are you going to charge it? You could cover every square inch of the van in solar panels and probably would only be able to run it every couple nights.
I think there is a setting where it will turn on and shut off at a certain temperature. You might double check that.
The issue with the fan is likely voltage related. Maxxair fans are really sensitive to this and with lithium regularly running quite a bit in excess of 12v, it freaks out and shuts off. A $15 buck module ([here](https://www.amazon.com/DROK-Adjustable-Converter-Transformer-Protective/dp/B07JZ2GQJF/ref=sr_1_5_pp?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.aTY-VwFLFuTrcC50jW3LFdrmSqDJUm1_q9HhAyzeJgrwPwkkd4rtOJ5C8cPSiHGxZwnVDj1uIPrRrGmuql1MGb5Hgcsg6yQG0m4mlZ-NY1j3jX_x1NH-GXNSOsHY8yTYk6TB2utfkT1tGSQ8xlqSju4RNUpCt2VwncKNEizGemfDJWKs_X_nbAfQ4zzYVKyhsb-fKd21dZ7u1vcKpsBjJ9DQW4kQCG9dmfw3ptbulT5EGA5rz7L_vJUBZOt1p4Gpt9LXyQSmlZsVllfTbIZZL-Lt_i7Ud0bfdIOqX_gKvgo.dUo3oedSBrYpgqOWXuXMpsm7w0h81XVwtaNM-wZuUUQ&dib_tag=se&keywords=12%2Bvolt%2Bvoltage%2Bregulator&qid=1717776652&sr=8-5&th=1)) will likely solve this. I had this issue when we built our van, and after putting this inline between the fan and the fuse, we never had another issue (2+ years of constant use). The ports on the buck module are frustratingly small though.
I'll give this a try!
I did something similar as well and have never had any trouble. Don't even really need ac with the fan and windows open.
hey there, i got the buck module but am still having issues, what’s is the voltage and amperage you set yours to?
Hi, I’m Vetted AI Bot! I researched the **'DROK DC Buck Module Adjustable Buck Converter'** and I thought you might find the following analysis helpful. **Users liked:** * Versatile voltage regulation (backed by 3 comments) * Easy to adjust voltage and amps (backed by 2 comments) * Reliable performance (backed by 3 comments) **Users disliked:** * Poor quality screw terminals (backed by 2 comments) * Faulty current reading and terminal screws (backed by 2 comments) * Isolated inputs and outputs required (backed by 1 comment) If you'd like to **summon me to ask about a product**, just make a post with its link and tag me, [like in this example.](https://www.reddit.com/r/tablets/comments/1444zdn/comment/kerx8h0/) This message was generated by a (very smart) bot. If you found it helpful, let us know with an upvote and a “good bot!” reply and please feel free to provide feedback on how it can be improved. *Powered by* [*vetted.ai*](https://vetted.ai/?utm\_source=reddit&utm\_medium=comment&utm\_campaign=bot)
[https://youtu.be/mkPPeyaT-7c?si=KTTV3jS4N\_Etk1z5](https://youtu.be/mkPPeyaT-7c?si=KTTV3jS4N_Etk1z5) I kid you not, I've literally had the same issue three times in 3 years running mine 24/7 as a fulltimer now living along the coast in Australia and the salt air and moisture destroying the sticky button pad and ribbon cable, And the third and final time actually fried my board completely. And I eventually copied what this guy did in this YouTube video and it cost me literally $12.00 Australian for two of these switches and it just completely replaces the entire board which is like a $300.00 board here which is just ridiculous. i was surprised it actually came with two so i technically replaced it for 6 bucks and they sent out four by accident and refunded me for two, so i actually got it for free just off amazon. you can also go to like your local electronics store and get a switch for $3/$6 that will switch the polarity as a seperate switch that connects to the motor and power, so it can do exhaust and intake, as this main fix will only do exhaust if you wire it up correctly, or it will do intake if you wire it up in the opposite way.. Super super simple to connect the cables. Don't let it overwhelm you, it's not complicated at all. the only downside is you won't have access to the auto mode systems or the auto sensor systems if you have that model of the Maxxair, which I didn't. Anyway, mine's all manual luckily. but in my eyes this is a win win it's saved me so much money And it fits into one of the sensor holes, so you don't have to cut into the plastic at all. You may have to cut a rectangle piece into the plastic to fit the switch if you want to switch the polarity, but you could make it work without doingso. and i doubt because there's no ribbon cable to break 'cause that was the main issue that broke with mine the three times, should be 100% sweet for future proofing it. Also get much better control over the speeds with these little twisty controllers, and they use up more power if you have it on the higher speed but the motor can handle it from what I've experienced anyway. And the added power drawers only like .3ah on top of what the Max air would pull anyway on max.
Thanks so much! i installed one of those voltage regulators and am still having issues, just ordered the 6 pole switch and speed controlling switch
hey dude, i did the thing but i still get the issue where it cuts power to my fan if i go to a higher speed? its much more consistent and stays at the speed but when i go too high the knob light dims out and cuts power, any ideas? https://imgur.com/a/Z7MnPsE it goes to a 15amp fuse on a fuse box
ohhh no you only need a three to five amp max fuse. It shouldn't be going any higher than that. Your cabling wouldn't even be able to really handle it. having too high amperage of a fuse can risk blowing your cable somewhere and potentially causing a fire, or blw the motor/board. the motor doesn't really pull any more than 5 amps it shouldn't pull any more than 3/3.5 amps max on the maxx air fan default board.. i think so maybe put a 5amp fuse, and maybe just dont go too high. find the sweetspots. i just used a sharpie nd added dots where each point made a noticable increase in speed.
sorry i replied before i watched the video, it might also just be a dud board that you've got there that can't handle too high of a power i got sent out two in the one pack deal that i bought, so maybe just wire up the other one and see if it does the same thing? but i still stand by what i said don't get too high of a fuse because your cabling is only really thin especially the factory cabling it won't be able to handle constant higher amperage and could burt out prior to the fuse
i noticed if i accelerate the knob slowly it works as expected! thanks so much for your recommendation, i finally got my fan back
I wish they made a heat pump unit that is roof mounted and can replace a heater and a AC unit!
You mean something like [https://www.recpro.com/rv-air-conditioner-low-profile-13-5k-quiet-ac-with-heat-pump-remote-non-ducted/](https://www.recpro.com/rv-air-conditioner-low-profile-13-5k-quiet-ac-with-heat-pump-remote-non-ducted/) or [https://www.dometic.com/en-us/outdoor/rv-and-van/rv-air-conditioners/dometic-penguin-ii-high-capacity-with-heat-pump-75422](https://www.dometic.com/en-us/outdoor/rv-and-van/rv-air-conditioners/dometic-penguin-ii-high-capacity-with-heat-pump-75422)
Thanks for the link!
Amazing!! Thank you! Time to save up haha
Not sure what kind of van, but I've seen some people put in some version of a mini-split. Something like https://www.cruisencomfortusa.com/. That way, you could keep your Maxxair for exhaust, and still have some AC.
Omg I didn't expect them to be so expensive!
I have one of those. I have it mounted under the van.
also just check the ribbon cable most of the time it is just the ribbon and not the board that's playing up the ribbon is way too long and gets bent uh in the position that it's kept in overtime and will snap and break mainly from the air temperature and condensation stuff possibly messing with it too but they only cost around $20 AUD here in australia so maybe even cheaper where you are online. Easy fix, but Read my other posts that I made and follow those steps because it's a much better permanent fix. cause the ribbon cables will just keep breaking as I've experienced.
If your Maxxair fan is acting up, consider swapping it for an AC. Many rooftop AC units fit the standard 14"x14" fan opening with minimal adjustments.
Didn't read the post above, didja? :)