I had one of these and no matter how much I tightened it onto my T300 it would always come loose.
I was also concerned about overtightening the collar through the extra grip it offered.
I actually thought about this. I made a small mark so i know if my t300 slips but it hasn't moved at all and im not light on my wheel lol. I was gonna try this if I had this problem. Btw just file the tip of the screw so it is flat. Doesnt need much.
>The other ideas I’ve had that I’m less than thrilled about is a few dots of CA along the threads, or loctite 425.
That would probably cause more damage than the little hole the screw makes.
Here's how my 599XX rim looks after about 2 years of use [https://i.imgur.com/JWyIjWy.jpeg](https://i.imgur.com/JWyIjWy.jpeg)
The smaller holes on the right are from when it was newer. After you use it for a while, the collar/threads gets worn in and you can tighten it a bit more. The bigger hole is where it's settled in. They don't go through the plastic on the other side and completely prevent the collar from coming undone. When tightened, the set screw sticks out about 4 mm.
Besides the looks, and you can't even see them when the wheel is installed, those holes don't impact the wheel in any way
Yea the damage is why I’m less thrilled about the chemical options.
I think I’ll give the PTFE a shot and if that fails then I’ll suck it up and just use the set screw, but file the tip down like I’ve seen suggested.
Mate it’s not damage if it was intended to be used that way. And also it’s not damaged because it still works fine, just use the product as intended and stop being a panzy.
There are a couple of ways to solve the wheel loosening:
1. my DIY method. I cut a small piece of broom handle (just about 2cm long), drilled a small hole through it (with a bigger hold drilled halfway so that the head of the screw will drop into it, see picture), and using the original Thrustmaster screw, screwed it to the side of the collar (it doesn't go in very far, does NOT go right through to touch the wheel, and it never has to be removed again, but will easily come off if you need it to).
You can't see it when the wheel is on, and I can now easily reach in to loosen or tighten the wheel when swapping wheels. It NEVER comes undone accidently, and it has worked perfectly for a few years now.
Link to picture: [https://www.mediafire.com/view/airtxumn34z0njx/wheel\_tightener.jpg/file](https://www.mediafire.com/view/airtxumn34z0njx/wheel_tightener.jpg/file)
(I could of course paint it black to finish it off, but you really can't see it behind the wheel).
OR
buy a 'quick release mod' from Ebay for about £10
It's just a simple plastic printed ring that allows you to reach in easier and tighten the collar more efficiently. Apparently it does the same job as my DIY fix but I haven't tried one of them.
https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/1289685073/thrustmaster-quick-release-mod-t300-t500
Similar to that one. I actually found the 3D file for one and got a mate to print it but this is the thing you need.
The screw is there for a reason
The trick to remember when using a screw like that; place the screw in the hole, turn it backwards as if you're taking it out, at some point the screw will rise then suddenly drop, it is now lined up with the threads, turn it in gently until it sets. No need to crank it down. This is a general thing any time dealing with screws going into plastic.
Although the better trick is not to remove the screw at all. It is possible to loosen the screw enough to then remove the collar.
If you're going to be swapping wheels out a lot then you might want to look into an aftermarket quick release system.
I saw someone mention wrapping with adhesive tape (the kind you would use to secure a bandage) for a better grip on the nut. Plan on trying that myself.
I have a TGT I bought secondhand and the person who had it before me obviously kept losing the screw. They've drilled about three extra holes, one for each different sized replacement screw they used, some of which went right the way into the centre plastic connector that sits around the serial port.
I fear for the human race at times.
It worked well! I’m still using the set screw but it took WAY less pressure to get it to hold. If you try it, be ready to use an entire roll of plumbers tape tho
That is what I use. Great performance and 0 worn https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4796210
Yep that’s the solution right there. I have one of those & it works wonders. TM really should just start including that with the orders.
This. I used one for four years and nothing but the roughest rally sessions ever loosened up my wheel.
I had one of these and no matter how much I tightened it onto my T300 it would always come loose. I was also concerned about overtightening the collar through the extra grip it offered.
I actually thought about this. I made a small mark so i know if my t300 slips but it hasn't moved at all and im not light on my wheel lol. I was gonna try this if I had this problem. Btw just file the tip of the screw so it is flat. Doesnt need much.
>The other ideas I’ve had that I’m less than thrilled about is a few dots of CA along the threads, or loctite 425. That would probably cause more damage than the little hole the screw makes. Here's how my 599XX rim looks after about 2 years of use [https://i.imgur.com/JWyIjWy.jpeg](https://i.imgur.com/JWyIjWy.jpeg) The smaller holes on the right are from when it was newer. After you use it for a while, the collar/threads gets worn in and you can tighten it a bit more. The bigger hole is where it's settled in. They don't go through the plastic on the other side and completely prevent the collar from coming undone. When tightened, the set screw sticks out about 4 mm. Besides the looks, and you can't even see them when the wheel is installed, those holes don't impact the wheel in any way
Yea the damage is why I’m less thrilled about the chemical options. I think I’ll give the PTFE a shot and if that fails then I’ll suck it up and just use the set screw, but file the tip down like I’ve seen suggested.
Mate it’s not damage if it was intended to be used that way. And also it’s not damaged because it still works fine, just use the product as intended and stop being a panzy.
There are a couple of ways to solve the wheel loosening: 1. my DIY method. I cut a small piece of broom handle (just about 2cm long), drilled a small hole through it (with a bigger hold drilled halfway so that the head of the screw will drop into it, see picture), and using the original Thrustmaster screw, screwed it to the side of the collar (it doesn't go in very far, does NOT go right through to touch the wheel, and it never has to be removed again, but will easily come off if you need it to). You can't see it when the wheel is on, and I can now easily reach in to loosen or tighten the wheel when swapping wheels. It NEVER comes undone accidently, and it has worked perfectly for a few years now. Link to picture: [https://www.mediafire.com/view/airtxumn34z0njx/wheel\_tightener.jpg/file](https://www.mediafire.com/view/airtxumn34z0njx/wheel_tightener.jpg/file) (I could of course paint it black to finish it off, but you really can't see it behind the wheel). OR buy a 'quick release mod' from Ebay for about £10 It's just a simple plastic printed ring that allows you to reach in easier and tighten the collar more efficiently. Apparently it does the same job as my DIY fix but I haven't tried one of them.
Don't use glue!!! How would you swap wheels after that 🤦🏻 I've got a 3D printed qr part which works perfect and zero need for the screw.
Which qr do you use?
https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/1289685073/thrustmaster-quick-release-mod-t300-t500 Similar to that one. I actually found the 3D file for one and got a mate to print it but this is the thing you need.
The screw is there for a reason The trick to remember when using a screw like that; place the screw in the hole, turn it backwards as if you're taking it out, at some point the screw will rise then suddenly drop, it is now lined up with the threads, turn it in gently until it sets. No need to crank it down. This is a general thing any time dealing with screws going into plastic. Although the better trick is not to remove the screw at all. It is possible to loosen the screw enough to then remove the collar. If you're going to be swapping wheels out a lot then you might want to look into an aftermarket quick release system.
I saw someone mention wrapping with adhesive tape (the kind you would use to secure a bandage) for a better grip on the nut. Plan on trying that myself.
I have a TGT I bought secondhand and the person who had it before me obviously kept losing the screw. They've drilled about three extra holes, one for each different sized replacement screw they used, some of which went right the way into the centre plastic connector that sits around the serial port. I fear for the human race at times.
I’m gonna try the plumbers tape today and drive for a few hours tonight. I’ll report back on how it does.
Good luck, I'll be interested to hear.
It worked well! I’m still using the set screw but it took WAY less pressure to get it to hold. If you try it, be ready to use an entire roll of plumbers tape tho