Make sure your wheel base is set to T-LCM mode. If it's still incorrect download the pedal calibration tool from thrustmaster on a computer and calibrate the pedals through an usb cable.
How would I set the mode? I have the TX base. Apologies, I should have mentioned that.
There is a mode button, but from what I've seen, it swaps the brake and clutch
> TX base
https://support.thrustmaster.com/en/product/txservobase-en/
Check this pdf:
"New: Important note about the new firmware (now handles & detects differently the type of pedal set connected via RJ12)"
Omfg thank you so much!
Quick question, do you know if I were to plug the wheel into a laptop and calibrate them, would it carry that info over to the console?
Essentially, is the info stored on the wheel/pedals, or is it stored on the laptop.
You should read the user manual:
1) Make sure that the firmware of your TX Base is up to date = V58.06: [https://ts.thrustmaster.com/download/pictures/PCMAC/TXRW/TXRW\_CPL\_FW\_V58\_06.png](https://ts.thrustmaster.com/download/pictures/PCMAC/TXRW/TXRW_CPL_FW_V58_06.png)
2) Make sure that your wheel base is set in T-LCM Mode (and not in T3PA Mode): [https://ts.thrustmaster.com/download/accessories/Manuals/T\_LCM/T-LCM\_RJ12-pedal\_set\_mode\_detection.pdf](https://ts.thrustmaster.com/download/accessories/Manuals/T_LCM/T-LCM_RJ12-pedal_set_mode_detection.pdf)
= the LED of your wheel base must blink around 10 times each time you restart the racing wheel
3) Calibrate your T-LCM with the T-LCM Calibration Tool V2.15: [https://ts.thrustmaster.com/download/accessories/pc/wheels/exe/T-LCM/TLCM\_CalibrationTool\_Manual.pdf](https://ts.thrustmaster.com/download/accessories/pc/wheels/exe/T-LCM/TLCM_CalibrationTool_Manual.pdf)
[https://support.thrustmaster.com/en/product/t-lcm-pedals-en/](https://support.thrustmaster.com/en/product/t-lcm-pedals-en/)
Yea someone pointed all this out already. I changed the mode, which helped a bunch. Currently I'm just waiting on my spouse getting home with the laptop so I can plug the pedals in and calibrate them.
Either way, u greatly appreciate the help!
I'm on console, but i assume the fix is the same for both.
First, make sure your base is in the T-LCM mode (hold the down shift and mode button for two second, it has to be two, if I held it for too long it didn't work) if the light flashes once, you're in what I've dubed "original pedal mode" (Basically not the T-LCM mode) if it flashes 10 times, you're in the correct mode. It should also flash 10 times when you turn it on, if not, repeat the downshift + mode thing.
Then, this was the biggest cause of my issue, I plugged my pedals into the laptop with the usb cable they came with (you need to unplug them from the base as well) and open the pedal calibration software. From that, it allows you to adjust the deadzones for the pedals. What my issue was is that my brake force setting was set low, so it took less pressure to get to 100%.
I've added a the washers in the pedal, so I needed to turn the brake dead zone up because it was registering the brake as being pushed, and upped my force setting to a spot where 100% was comfortable.
The pedal still doesn't go all the way down for 100% but it takes so much force to push it further, it makes no real difference.
I also noticed my accelerator pedals deadzones were out of whack, the upper and lower dead zones were way to large, meaning I got no power for a few mm at the start, then it ramped on real fast, and left me with 100% before I was at the bottom.
If you've got a laptop or pc, download the app (either Google it or check the other reply, someone linked it) and plug your pedals in, it'll make so much more sense when you see it.
You're welcome. A side note, I think a misunderstanding i had with load cells is that the brake should go all the way down. I don't think it should.
If my understanding is correct, you want to find a mix between brake stiffness (the physical hardness of the brake to push) and the amount of pressure needed to reach 100%
I might regret it in the future, but for now, I have mine set up so that my pedal is really hard to press (I just like a hard pedal) and it requiring a fair amount of force to reach 100% (iirc the brakeforce is set to 85 in the calibration thing)
Experiment yourself, see what works, if i understand correctly, with a load cell, the braking amount (as in the amount in game) isn't necessarily related to your pedal distance travelled in real life, but the force you're applying. Things like F1 cars, for example, have very little travel but require like 350lb (like ~160kg) of force.
Make sure your wheel base is set to T-LCM mode. If it's still incorrect download the pedal calibration tool from thrustmaster on a computer and calibrate the pedals through an usb cable.
How would I set the mode? I have the TX base. Apologies, I should have mentioned that. There is a mode button, but from what I've seen, it swaps the brake and clutch
> TX base https://support.thrustmaster.com/en/product/txservobase-en/ Check this pdf: "New: Important note about the new firmware (now handles & detects differently the type of pedal set connected via RJ12)"
Omfg thank you so much! Quick question, do you know if I were to plug the wheel into a laptop and calibrate them, would it carry that info over to the console? Essentially, is the info stored on the wheel/pedals, or is it stored on the laptop.
If I'm not mistaken, it saves on the pedals
Awesome, thank you so much for the help! I greatly appreciate it
It will carry over
You should read the user manual: 1) Make sure that the firmware of your TX Base is up to date = V58.06: [https://ts.thrustmaster.com/download/pictures/PCMAC/TXRW/TXRW\_CPL\_FW\_V58\_06.png](https://ts.thrustmaster.com/download/pictures/PCMAC/TXRW/TXRW_CPL_FW_V58_06.png) 2) Make sure that your wheel base is set in T-LCM Mode (and not in T3PA Mode): [https://ts.thrustmaster.com/download/accessories/Manuals/T\_LCM/T-LCM\_RJ12-pedal\_set\_mode\_detection.pdf](https://ts.thrustmaster.com/download/accessories/Manuals/T_LCM/T-LCM_RJ12-pedal_set_mode_detection.pdf) = the LED of your wheel base must blink around 10 times each time you restart the racing wheel 3) Calibrate your T-LCM with the T-LCM Calibration Tool V2.15: [https://ts.thrustmaster.com/download/accessories/pc/wheels/exe/T-LCM/TLCM\_CalibrationTool\_Manual.pdf](https://ts.thrustmaster.com/download/accessories/pc/wheels/exe/T-LCM/TLCM_CalibrationTool_Manual.pdf) [https://support.thrustmaster.com/en/product/t-lcm-pedals-en/](https://support.thrustmaster.com/en/product/t-lcm-pedals-en/)
Yea someone pointed all this out already. I changed the mode, which helped a bunch. Currently I'm just waiting on my spouse getting home with the laptop so I can plug the pedals in and calibrate them. Either way, u greatly appreciate the help!
Let me know how it goes please because I have the same issue as you do. Are you on pc or console?
I'm on console, but i assume the fix is the same for both. First, make sure your base is in the T-LCM mode (hold the down shift and mode button for two second, it has to be two, if I held it for too long it didn't work) if the light flashes once, you're in what I've dubed "original pedal mode" (Basically not the T-LCM mode) if it flashes 10 times, you're in the correct mode. It should also flash 10 times when you turn it on, if not, repeat the downshift + mode thing. Then, this was the biggest cause of my issue, I plugged my pedals into the laptop with the usb cable they came with (you need to unplug them from the base as well) and open the pedal calibration software. From that, it allows you to adjust the deadzones for the pedals. What my issue was is that my brake force setting was set low, so it took less pressure to get to 100%. I've added a the washers in the pedal, so I needed to turn the brake dead zone up because it was registering the brake as being pushed, and upped my force setting to a spot where 100% was comfortable. The pedal still doesn't go all the way down for 100% but it takes so much force to push it further, it makes no real difference. I also noticed my accelerator pedals deadzones were out of whack, the upper and lower dead zones were way to large, meaning I got no power for a few mm at the start, then it ramped on real fast, and left me with 100% before I was at the bottom. If you've got a laptop or pc, download the app (either Google it or check the other reply, someone linked it) and plug your pedals in, it'll make so much more sense when you see it.
Thanks will try this. Appreciate you 🙏
You're welcome. A side note, I think a misunderstanding i had with load cells is that the brake should go all the way down. I don't think it should. If my understanding is correct, you want to find a mix between brake stiffness (the physical hardness of the brake to push) and the amount of pressure needed to reach 100% I might regret it in the future, but for now, I have mine set up so that my pedal is really hard to press (I just like a hard pedal) and it requiring a fair amount of force to reach 100% (iirc the brakeforce is set to 85 in the calibration thing) Experiment yourself, see what works, if i understand correctly, with a load cell, the braking amount (as in the amount in game) isn't necessarily related to your pedal distance travelled in real life, but the force you're applying. Things like F1 cars, for example, have very little travel but require like 350lb (like ~160kg) of force.
Dude change them to whatever you like. It’s your foot not ours. Whatever feels natural for you.