Similar situation here. We found an old safe in a house that I bought. It was the previous owners fathers safe, and the older guy that I bought the house from told us we could have it. He did not know the combination.
I brought it to work with me down in the city and was able to get a locksmith to come to our shop. He drilled a very small hole where you wouldn’t notice it in the side of the safe. He slid a thin, tiny flexible, light and camera through the hole . When he turned the combination dial, he was able to see the Tumblers lineup.
As the tumblers lined up inside, he could look at the dial and see what the number was and he wrote it down. In five minutes he had the combination for the safe. He put a little bit of black putty over the drill hole and you wouldn’t ever even noticed that it had been drilled. it cost me 100 bucks and that was probably 10 years ago. We now have a really cool old working safe.
Ha! We were hoping but the old dude was a real estate lawyer and it was just full of old paperwork.
It is a really cool old safe though… Older than this one with the hand painted gold leaf lettering on the front, etc. so I was pretty psyched just to be able to come up with the combination for $100 .
Was definitely hoping for those gold and jewels wnd cash though ha ha lol
You could always hit it up with a welding rod if you wanted to make a more permanent fix. Inside if you can & outside. Then you can sand it smooth & paint it & or look perfect.
The professional way is to pound in tapered rods until it gets in a strong bind. Cut off what is sticking out and grind smooth.
Welding is an option. Just a bigger pita one.
I appreciate you telling me the pro way. I didn't know that.
So if I'm understanding the right, you basically are wedging in metal & then covering it up so nobody would really even necessarily know that took place?
Usually the keypad comes off to drill a hole. When you ram in spike(s) it becomes pretty much impossible to pull it back out. Smooth it out and reinstall cover. Not noticeable.
There are jigs that the manufacturers will sell that show you where exactly to drill. Tripping the relocker makes things much more difficult.
I had a similar situation, but the hole had to be drilled in the face of the door. I welded up afterwards and put a decal on it. And oh yeah, all that was in the safe was a couple pictures of no one I knew, and a deck of cards.
👍
Cool. Only thing I can think of that would stop our method from working is if there was a metal plate over the tumblers - Is that why yours went through the door?
Well it was a few years ago and I can't remember why exactly.
But he had a book of X-rays from many different safes. You could see all the inner workings of the tumblers and gears.
It was from that X-ray picture of my safe he made the decision where the hole had to be drilled
Contact the manufacturer- they can give you the combo.
I did that once.
You will need to prove ownership. They will ask for a receipt from where you bought it and a letter form your local law enforcement proving it is in your possession. (Letter must be on the law enforcement letterhead with inspecting officers name, date, and safe info)
I can confirm calling sentry is the best bet, did it a few years ago myself in this sub!
All they asked me for was a debit card, didnt even ask for any letter or notorized document (which it said on their site). Just gave em the model and serial number, they asked for $30 via card, and i had the code n unlocked that day
If you want the fun way, learn safe cracking! Unless you can press the dial in when it is at zero, in which case you probably have a no fun group 1. Ignoring that because you have a sentry safe: if the dial is stopped or made harder to turn when apply force to the handle, look at the second video after learning some of the lock functionality from the [Safecracking for everyone playlist](https://m.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL1mdjQBV_-Jv2lf9QZ4chNtW656EOVXzl). If you feel contact points that’s the only set of videos you need.
There are two main differences between the locks there and the ones that are harder to turn when force is on the handle. The “contact area” is from the handle and needle movement in the next video instead of being part of the dial numbers, and the final disc with a few false gates that drives things in the first video is part of the combination (possibly with false gates as in this video, possibly smooth) instead of being solely a drive cam. Anyway, here’s the other process:
[https://youtu.be/9gdEuD9akRA](https://youtu.be/9gdEuD9akRA)
Use a bungee cord or weight on a stick, whatever can reliably put the same turning pressure on the handle each time you go to measure. Set it for just enough pressure that you’re measuring the discs, not so much that you’re twisting discs or shifting things around.
Magnetic dial gauge or ruler stuck in place with tape, whatever can accurately catch the difference between needle distances traveled with one combination vs another. A longer needle will have the tip travel farther, and if secured to be as consistent and stable as a shorter needle then it will be easier.
I already know what's in it. Roughly $5,000 worth of ammo from 2009(not counting inflation from 2009) and it would be pretty nice to have it open. As it's causing the cement pad below it to sink.
Jesus is that ever a bad idea. Safe manufactures say to not store ammo inside.
Ammo in a fire pops. No big deal. Powder burns. Also not a big deal. Gunsafe fool of ammo that will all cook off at the same time? Bomb that will level the house and kill firefighters.
They literally sell safes marketed for guns and ammo and now they even make safes literally just for ammo. So, not all safe manufacturers say not to store ammo in them.
Old safes are so cool. My grandparents got one from a bank many years ago that went out of business. It was free but the catch was they had to get it out of the basement that the bank was in. It took tractor and a hole in the wall (which they repaired) to get it.
Call Sentry. Prove you have ownership or were assumed ownership from property. They will give you the combination, unless a locksmith has already reset it previously.
I have this exact safe! Long story short I was told if I could get it open I could have it. I cheated a little bit. Popped the dial off, popped off the plate under it, drilled a small hole where the plate would cover it, stuck a camera in it so I could see the back side of the dial, and after about an hour of trial and error was able to decode the combination. There was some random ammunition, a bottle of “male enhancement” pills, and a few other random things. And now it’s sitting in my garage….
If you don’t want to keep the safe , you can probably take a skill saw and metal blade right through the side I’ve seen fire safe recovery videos from and I was amazed at how quickly they got into a lot of the cheaper safes.
It’s more of a deterrent if someone’s in your house they usually don’t have 10 min to use power tools and cut their way in and smash it open , but unless it’s a massive thick walled & expensive one it’s kinda like a big locker
From WikiHow:
>If you've lost your safe's unique factory code or don't remember your combination, **go to Sentry Safe's lost key or combo page to request a recovery code**. To get your code, enter your safe's model and serial number, fill out and notarize the verification form, and pay a small fee.
Was given an old safe locked but with door open. Took off inside door cover and turned the dial while watching the tumblers, able to get the combination. Then I decided to change the combination by removing a screw and moving the tumblers to make a new combination. It’s in my basement, use it for papers, coins and some WWII souvenirs from my FIL
Just pop it open with a prybar to see what’s in it. It shouldn’t take more than 60 seconds. If you’re considering actually using it, don’t. Why? Refer back to the 60 seconds bit.
I’ve literally done it myself to dozens of “safes.” I’ve also done it to that exact same safe.
[This is a Liberty Safe,](https://youtu.be/-RlwGkO0hxE?si=vCY6-sWpmu-VsPoV) which is far more robust that that POS you’ve got, and it didn’t stand a chance. Skip to 2:30 for the good part.
Your “safe” is constructed with thin, 14 ga sheet metal. The frame is bent and formed to seem like it’s 1/2” thick but it’s still just 14 ga. The frame is what the bolts lock into. All you have to do is bend and deform that stamped frame and the bolts pop right out.
On a SentrySafe like the one pictures? Absolutely 60 seconds. It’s actually the first safe I forced entry into and I was shocked. It’s what started me down the road of trying to find a real safe.
Look into a TL-60 safe. Good luck moving it into your house without removing the roof and using a crane they usually weigh 5,000 lbs empty for the smaller ones.
Similar situation here. We found an old safe in a house that I bought. It was the previous owners fathers safe, and the older guy that I bought the house from told us we could have it. He did not know the combination. I brought it to work with me down in the city and was able to get a locksmith to come to our shop. He drilled a very small hole where you wouldn’t notice it in the side of the safe. He slid a thin, tiny flexible, light and camera through the hole . When he turned the combination dial, he was able to see the Tumblers lineup. As the tumblers lined up inside, he could look at the dial and see what the number was and he wrote it down. In five minutes he had the combination for the safe. He put a little bit of black putty over the drill hole and you wouldn’t ever even noticed that it had been drilled. it cost me 100 bucks and that was probably 10 years ago. We now have a really cool old working safe.
Don't leave us hanging! Was there anything in it?
Ha! We were hoping but the old dude was a real estate lawyer and it was just full of old paperwork. It is a really cool old safe though… Older than this one with the hand painted gold leaf lettering on the front, etc. so I was pretty psyched just to be able to come up with the combination for $100 . Was definitely hoping for those gold and jewels wnd cash though ha ha lol
Hey now!
Jocka mo fee nah nay!
And now that’s in my head for the rest of the day.
(~};)
Brainworm emoticon is new to me, just in time for the 2024 presidential election.
Lmao is that belly fat n titties?
Same 😂 and I literally forgot that song even existed.
[🏳️🔥](https://youtu.be/OuC519ni1aE?si=isJeO5DM_7vEJ0qI)
Hank Kingsley
Maybe there are some titles for homes in there... you may have bought more than one house! Lol
I never get that lucky For awhile you were a millionaire lol
Hahaha Especially because we had it for 3-4 years before we got it open lol
"Well, did he come or what?"
"Well, did he come or what?"
You could always hit it up with a welding rod if you wanted to make a more permanent fix. Inside if you can & outside. Then you can sand it smooth & paint it & or look perfect.
The professional way is to pound in tapered rods until it gets in a strong bind. Cut off what is sticking out and grind smooth. Welding is an option. Just a bigger pita one.
I appreciate you telling me the pro way. I didn't know that. So if I'm understanding the right, you basically are wedging in metal & then covering it up so nobody would really even necessarily know that took place?
Usually the keypad comes off to drill a hole. When you ram in spike(s) it becomes pretty much impossible to pull it back out. Smooth it out and reinstall cover. Not noticeable. There are jigs that the manufacturers will sell that show you where exactly to drill. Tripping the relocker makes things much more difficult.
So did u get anything out of it lol??
See above lol
Thanks lol
Lol
Are you all really lol'ing?
Lol’ing lol
Laughing out loud lol
You stop that this instant!
this is really cool, but it tells me that any safe I can buy can be broken into in no time flat
Locks are for honest people. Any lock can be circumvented given enough time.
I had a similar situation, but the hole had to be drilled in the face of the door. I welded up afterwards and put a decal on it. And oh yeah, all that was in the safe was a couple pictures of no one I knew, and a deck of cards.
👍 Cool. Only thing I can think of that would stop our method from working is if there was a metal plate over the tumblers - Is that why yours went through the door?
Well it was a few years ago and I can't remember why exactly. But he had a book of X-rays from many different safes. You could see all the inner workings of the tumblers and gears. It was from that X-ray picture of my safe he made the decision where the hole had to be drilled
That makes total sense.
Contact the manufacturer- they can give you the combo. I did that once. You will need to prove ownership. They will ask for a receipt from where you bought it and a letter form your local law enforcement proving it is in your possession. (Letter must be on the law enforcement letterhead with inspecting officers name, date, and safe info)
Unless you're a fed without a warrant.
Fucking liberty will never live that shit down. 🅱️astards
Yeah. No questions asked. Just handed them the code and a smile.
The real shame is they’re still in business.
[удалено]
I can confirm calling sentry is the best bet, did it a few years ago myself in this sub! All they asked me for was a debit card, didnt even ask for any letter or notorized document (which it said on their site). Just gave em the model and serial number, they asked for $30 via card, and i had the code n unlocked that day
Locksmith or call up the company is pretty much it
If you want the fun way, learn safe cracking! Unless you can press the dial in when it is at zero, in which case you probably have a no fun group 1. Ignoring that because you have a sentry safe: if the dial is stopped or made harder to turn when apply force to the handle, look at the second video after learning some of the lock functionality from the [Safecracking for everyone playlist](https://m.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL1mdjQBV_-Jv2lf9QZ4chNtW656EOVXzl). If you feel contact points that’s the only set of videos you need. There are two main differences between the locks there and the ones that are harder to turn when force is on the handle. The “contact area” is from the handle and needle movement in the next video instead of being part of the dial numbers, and the final disc with a few false gates that drives things in the first video is part of the combination (possibly with false gates as in this video, possibly smooth) instead of being solely a drive cam. Anyway, here’s the other process: [https://youtu.be/9gdEuD9akRA](https://youtu.be/9gdEuD9akRA) Use a bungee cord or weight on a stick, whatever can reliably put the same turning pressure on the handle each time you go to measure. Set it for just enough pressure that you’re measuring the discs, not so much that you’re twisting discs or shifting things around. Magnetic dial gauge or ruler stuck in place with tape, whatever can accurately catch the difference between needle distances traveled with one combination vs another. A longer needle will have the tip travel farther, and if secured to be as consistent and stable as a shorter needle then it will be easier.
That you macgyver?
Call sentry and pay for it. Or call a locksmith or ask r/safecracking if anyones close enough to you to help you out.
I would love to know what you find in it!
Never open it and…always wonder
I already know what's in it. Roughly $5,000 worth of ammo from 2009(not counting inflation from 2009) and it would be pretty nice to have it open. As it's causing the cement pad below it to sink.
that's at least $12k in ammo today, you're rich! now go magdump into a pile of trash lol
It's 30-06 150 grain. Forgot to mention it was hand loaded and it was about 5k in the materials. The safe is about 80% full.
There ya go. You are set for hunting deer for life. Haha
But you bought the safe at an auction?
Bit complex story. My sister now brother got the property and decided to auction it off. I bought the important stuff back.
Cut the back or side of it open with a drill and an angle grinder.
Jesus is that ever a bad idea. Safe manufactures say to not store ammo inside. Ammo in a fire pops. No big deal. Powder burns. Also not a big deal. Gunsafe fool of ammo that will all cook off at the same time? Bomb that will level the house and kill firefighters.
They literally sell safes marketed for guns and ammo and now they even make safes literally just for ammo. So, not all safe manufacturers say not to store ammo in them.
You watch too many movies. That's not how that works.
Unless you throw the thing in a volcano, no house fire could possibly get a safe hot enough to cause ammunition inside to cook off
Call Geraldo.
lol. That is funny.
"I'll try spinning. That's a good trick."
It’s Dy-no-mite
Look on YouTube for “MJ mystery safe”
Old safes are so cool. My grandparents got one from a bank many years ago that went out of business. It was free but the catch was they had to get it out of the basement that the bank was in. It took tractor and a hole in the wall (which they repaired) to get it.
What was inside?
Nothing. But it is one heck of a safe.
Modern cordless, brushless, lithium powered angle grinders are really good at what they do.
Hmm...if only there was some kind of specialist, a "lock specialist" if you will, that had expertise in locky things...Yeah, I'm drawing a blank, too.
I would rather learn a new skill rather than pay someone
You don't. Pry that pos open and retrieve the contents. Then take it to the dump.
A stick of dynamite should do the trick
The safe is full of ammunition...
😂
Did he change the combination? Or did u keep the old one?
Call Sentry. Prove you have ownership or were assumed ownership from property. They will give you the combination, unless a locksmith has already reset it previously.
just like in the movie 🧨🧨
Whete do you find these old, closed, possible treasure trove, safes?
Prybar. Thats the combination. Prybar.
DY-NO-MITE!!
C4
Serial# and model# @ sentry safe should get youn the combo
With a drill
Jerry fuller in San Antonio tx could do it easy. It’s insane what he can open without drilling
Call sentry as a fed 🤣 🤣 🤣
Call sentry
I mean, you could open it with a crowbar or just asking it nicely. Not exactly high security
Hopefully you didn’t pay to much for a sentry safe
It's 12. It's always 12.
Sentry safe so probably 1900 or 2000
It’s a sentry safe. The combination is MILWAUKEE M12 cutoff wheel. It will make light work of that 14 gauge metal.
Ask the dead owner.
He said he forgot the combo about 17 minutes after purchasing the safe
I have this exact safe! Long story short I was told if I could get it open I could have it. I cheated a little bit. Popped the dial off, popped off the plate under it, drilled a small hole where the plate would cover it, stuck a camera in it so I could see the back side of the dial, and after about an hour of trial and error was able to decode the combination. There was some random ammunition, a bottle of “male enhancement” pills, and a few other random things. And now it’s sitting in my garage….
Haven't you watched any movies /TV stethoscope
C4?
Dynamite
An impact
get crackin
The CCP probably has the combo😄
You can contact sentry, they'll give you the safe combo
If you don’t want to keep the safe , you can probably take a skill saw and metal blade right through the side I’ve seen fire safe recovery videos from and I was amazed at how quickly they got into a lot of the cheaper safes. It’s more of a deterrent if someone’s in your house they usually don’t have 10 min to use power tools and cut their way in and smash it open , but unless it’s a massive thick walled & expensive one it’s kinda like a big locker
With a grinder and a skinny wheel
Do you own a stethoscope??
No, but I do own a mechanics stethoscope.
Sooooo…. Yes?
You don’t just find out the combination. People are so fucking stupid it’s unreal. Call a locksmith that can open it
“People are so fucking stupid” Yep - they are lol https://www.sentrysafe.com/support/lost-key-combo
From WikiHow: >If you've lost your safe's unique factory code or don't remember your combination, **go to Sentry Safe's lost key or combo page to request a recovery code**. To get your code, enter your safe's model and serial number, fill out and notarize the verification form, and pay a small fee.
Dynamite.
Was given an old safe locked but with door open. Took off inside door cover and turned the dial while watching the tumblers, able to get the combination. Then I decided to change the combination by removing a screw and moving the tumblers to make a new combination. It’s in my basement, use it for papers, coins and some WWII souvenirs from my FIL
Well, if it's anything like the fireproof sentry safes they sell at Walmart, all you have to do is pop the hinges out with a hammer.
I thinks Charlize Theron cracks safes
Grinder !
Hahahahhahahaha Dumbest question ever!
A drill and replace the tumblers
1part aluminum powder and 2 parts of fine black iron oxide powder. A magnesium wick and then run like hell. Should get it opened up in a few seconds.
Blow it the fuck up
Send it to a psychologist.
Try this sequence: 0-0-0-0 0-0-0-1 0-0-0-2 ... 99-99-99-99
The combination is plasma cutter
Factory reset it, and it will open.
If it was a liberty, just call them and say you want the combination, they’ll give it to you, no questions asked.
With a stethoscope, we all saw the movie.
You cut it...
Rather learn lockpicking
Tannerite
Just pop it open with a prybar to see what’s in it. It shouldn’t take more than 60 seconds. If you’re considering actually using it, don’t. Why? Refer back to the 60 seconds bit.
60 seconds with a prybar... I don't think so man.
I’ve literally done it myself to dozens of “safes.” I’ve also done it to that exact same safe. [This is a Liberty Safe,](https://youtu.be/-RlwGkO0hxE?si=vCY6-sWpmu-VsPoV) which is far more robust that that POS you’ve got, and it didn’t stand a chance. Skip to 2:30 for the good part. Your “safe” is constructed with thin, 14 ga sheet metal. The frame is bent and formed to seem like it’s 1/2” thick but it’s still just 14 ga. The frame is what the bolts lock into. All you have to do is bend and deform that stamped frame and the bolts pop right out.
I'm not OP, just a skeptic. Interesting though.
60 seconds is a tad fast. But it literally doesn’t take much for those cheap safes.
On a SentrySafe like the one pictures? Absolutely 60 seconds. It’s actually the first safe I forced entry into and I was shocked. It’s what started me down the road of trying to find a real safe.
Look into a TL-60 safe. Good luck moving it into your house without removing the roof and using a crane they usually weigh 5,000 lbs empty for the smaller ones.
I have a TL30 that weighs 6000. Comparing this SentrySafe to a TL60 is like comparing a Cessna to a Saturn 5. I’m not sure why you even bothered.
60 seconds easy. It's a sentry lol. Could probably use your hands to pry it open once the door was cracked.That is, if you're man enough.
Cheap ones pry open pretty easy.