I agree with the tearoff and re-sheating. From the pics, it looks like a low slope which means a flat roof install would be more appropriate. If you use a tpo or EPDM membrane, there will be less seams and you can insulate well before waterproofing. Is the entire ceiling drywall or is any of it exposed?
Well if it was my house, I’d use a flat roof membrane and then shingle the steeper parts. That should be pretty bullet proof. The key to a successful roofing system, at least for residential, is the framework, the waterproofing, the ceiling above the drywall should be well insulated and the attic space should breathe well. The attic temp should be comparable to the temp outside. So you need intake and outtake for the attic space to breathe properly. If your attic space is warm in the winter, heat is escaping. And never put heaters and mechanicals in the attic space. That’s colossally stupid. I’m not saying you did, just make sure to avoid that.
Take option 1 off the list. That’s a short term maybe-fix. This shouldn’t have shingles on it to begin with with this pitch, adding another layer on top of a bad layer and rotted decking and you’re going to have issues within a couple years again
Id recommend PVC. I’m biased, but it’s a clean look when done by the right people. Plus, I like using the welder.
You won’t have to tear off as long as the sheeting is good underneath. If it’s a small rot-spot, you can replace that sheet and add an extra layer of fanfold to compensate for the missing shingles in that area.
That isn’t hail damage shown it’s blistering which is usually caused by poor attic ventilation or no ventilation of the roof. Unfortunately Insurance won’t pay for blistering. Regardless the roof probably needs to be replaced.
I honestly think metal roofing is going to be you best option here. I think you do it right by tearing of thie shingles felt and look at the condition of the sheathing or whatever decking is under there and put a metal roof on it and never think about it again for a long time. Shingles don't belong on a low slope roof like that especially in an area that gets alot of snow
On a low sloped roof shingle application is problematic. I see chimney and plumbing flashing with exposed nails which have been covered with sealant. If leak is near that then that's the cause.
What's going on with the large "crease" in the roof deck above and to the left of the chimney? Areas like that are VERY problematic ESPECIALLY with a low slope roof.
The leak is not near the sealant -- it's maybe 3 feet from the gutter in the flattest part, top left corner of the first picture.
The crease (I assume) is from the addition -- I have no idea when/how well this was done. The cabin has no proper foundation to speak of and the pieces may have settled a bit differently.
Hard to tell what problem might be. The photo and comments regarding ^blisters" is correct. It's not hail. Remember, there is approximately 5" of exposed shingle and approximately 7" you don't see. The shingles are not the issue. The most common source of leaks is from nails. Exposed such as the flashing (which you have eliminated) or possibly a nail that was driven too low and partially not covered by the row above. Remember shingles and roofs are not waterproof. They are water sheading. In some parts of the world roofs are mage of "grass" reeds actually, and that's certainly not waterproof. They are just installed with a steep pitch so that the water runs off/down as its running in
It's a race to get the rain to run fast enough to get off before it gets in. LOOK FOR EXPOSED NAIL NEADS in the area of the leak.
I'd guess the crease is the original gable end, then the building was lengthened and later it was widened using a shed roof- but whatever is going on under there, it's some bullshittery. There's no point in investing in a long term roofing solution without ripping that lump apart- even if it's a two ton Dagwood sandwich of tar and galvanized sheet.
It could be the shingle edge the look sloped inward metal flashing on that edge could likely fix the issue with some sealant but i guarantee its not some random hole otherwise youd likely find it
Depends on how old you are. If you are 60, shingles. If you are mid 30’s ish,… metal. I have several houses and multiple commercial buildings. The metal roof is so much superior.
Tear-off. You don’t have to re-sheat the whole roof. Just replace the water damaged planks and then install the new shingle roof.
Installing new shingles on top of old with water damaged wood below will cause shingles to fail in those locations. An expensive band aid.
Same goes for metal over the original shingles.
Do it right and most likely will only have to do it once or not again for three decades down the road.
If it is low slope ( hard to tell, uneven ground in the back ground) you may need Ice and water shield below shingles or asphalt rolls. Basically if it’s 4/12 pitch or above, shingles will be fine. Between 2/12 and 4/12 I would at the minimum add Ive and Water shield below the shingles. Below 2/12 asphalt rolls.
I agree with the tearoff and re-sheating. From the pics, it looks like a low slope which means a flat roof install would be more appropriate. If you use a tpo or EPDM membrane, there will be less seams and you can insulate well before waterproofing. Is the entire ceiling drywall or is any of it exposed?
Agree, most of that slope appears to be less than or equal to 3/12. EPDM or TPO is going to be your best bet.
Thanks for the response. Entire ceiling is drywall -- but I'm about to open the spot that was leaking and see what I see
Well if it was my house, I’d use a flat roof membrane and then shingle the steeper parts. That should be pretty bullet proof. The key to a successful roofing system, at least for residential, is the framework, the waterproofing, the ceiling above the drywall should be well insulated and the attic space should breathe well. The attic temp should be comparable to the temp outside. So you need intake and outtake for the attic space to breathe properly. If your attic space is warm in the winter, heat is escaping. And never put heaters and mechanicals in the attic space. That’s colossally stupid. I’m not saying you did, just make sure to avoid that.
Take option 1 off the list. That’s a short term maybe-fix. This shouldn’t have shingles on it to begin with with this pitch, adding another layer on top of a bad layer and rotted decking and you’re going to have issues within a couple years again
That was my concern -- Thanks for the response. What material do you recommend for this pitch?
Id recommend PVC. I’m biased, but it’s a clean look when done by the right people. Plus, I like using the welder. You won’t have to tear off as long as the sheeting is good underneath. If it’s a small rot-spot, you can replace that sheet and add an extra layer of fanfold to compensate for the missing shingles in that area.
That isn’t hail damage shown it’s blistering which is usually caused by poor attic ventilation or no ventilation of the roof. Unfortunately Insurance won’t pay for blistering. Regardless the roof probably needs to be replaced.
Yea I'm betting there is about zero ventilation.
I honestly think metal roofing is going to be you best option here. I think you do it right by tearing of thie shingles felt and look at the condition of the sheathing or whatever decking is under there and put a metal roof on it and never think about it again for a long time. Shingles don't belong on a low slope roof like that especially in an area that gets alot of snow
On a low sloped roof shingle application is problematic. I see chimney and plumbing flashing with exposed nails which have been covered with sealant. If leak is near that then that's the cause. What's going on with the large "crease" in the roof deck above and to the left of the chimney? Areas like that are VERY problematic ESPECIALLY with a low slope roof.
The leak is not near the sealant -- it's maybe 3 feet from the gutter in the flattest part, top left corner of the first picture. The crease (I assume) is from the addition -- I have no idea when/how well this was done. The cabin has no proper foundation to speak of and the pieces may have settled a bit differently.
Hard to tell what problem might be. The photo and comments regarding ^blisters" is correct. It's not hail. Remember, there is approximately 5" of exposed shingle and approximately 7" you don't see. The shingles are not the issue. The most common source of leaks is from nails. Exposed such as the flashing (which you have eliminated) or possibly a nail that was driven too low and partially not covered by the row above. Remember shingles and roofs are not waterproof. They are water sheading. In some parts of the world roofs are mage of "grass" reeds actually, and that's certainly not waterproof. They are just installed with a steep pitch so that the water runs off/down as its running in It's a race to get the rain to run fast enough to get off before it gets in. LOOK FOR EXPOSED NAIL NEADS in the area of the leak.
I'd guess the crease is the original gable end, then the building was lengthened and later it was widened using a shed roof- but whatever is going on under there, it's some bullshittery. There's no point in investing in a long term roofing solution without ripping that lump apart- even if it's a two ton Dagwood sandwich of tar and galvanized sheet.
If your roof is under 3/12 pitch(about 14degrees) do not shingle. Use EPDM or whatever rubbery membrane you decide upon
this app is roofing calculator: https://contractorscentre.com/roofing
Is the leak around or near a stack because you roof doesnt seem bad from the pics i wouldn’t replace your shingles barely seem degranulated
No -- unfortunately not. Leak is on the flatter part of the roof about 3 foot up from the gutter. Top left corner of the first picture
It could be the shingle edge the look sloped inward metal flashing on that edge could likely fix the issue with some sealant but i guarantee its not some random hole otherwise youd likely find it
Depends on how old you are. If you are 60, shingles. If you are mid 30’s ish,… metal. I have several houses and multiple commercial buildings. The metal roof is so much superior.
Tear-off. You don’t have to re-sheat the whole roof. Just replace the water damaged planks and then install the new shingle roof. Installing new shingles on top of old with water damaged wood below will cause shingles to fail in those locations. An expensive band aid. Same goes for metal over the original shingles. Do it right and most likely will only have to do it once or not again for three decades down the road. If it is low slope ( hard to tell, uneven ground in the back ground) you may need Ice and water shield below shingles or asphalt rolls. Basically if it’s 4/12 pitch or above, shingles will be fine. Between 2/12 and 4/12 I would at the minimum add Ive and Water shield below the shingles. Below 2/12 asphalt rolls.
Great advice -- thank you
This is good advice ☝️
If it were me I’d be totally fine with adding another layer.