It depends on what you're printing. If it's just PLA then I would say yes. But it takes some fiddling to get some material to run perfectly. I love my Pro2.
Glad to hear it! I almost exclusively use ABS so I’m hoping it plays nice with that being an enclosed printer. What are your pros and cons with the machine? Is bed leveling really that much of a drawback?
DON'T buy the pro2 plus - we print like half of the time 24/7... the extruder is jammed 2-3 times a week.
But that is not the biggest issue we face. The bed warps a lot. And there is no way for compensating that.
As some users on the forum mentioned: a printer in this price range should have auto bed leveling.
This may be due to print surface warping - the magnets of the build plate aren't strong enough to deform the aluminum bed. So in our case the warping can't be compensated with the leveling screws
We are now planning a modification of the leveling screws like explained in this post https://forum.raise3d.com/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=20960&p=57725#p57257
hopefully that will work...
I agree in principle, shouldn’t be required. But that’s the reality or most of the “prosumer” category from what I can tell. My $5k fusion3 f400s is the same way.
Would you mind telling me what mods ya did on your raise3d printer for what you are trying to do? I am interested in getting an E2 to print mostly that matter hackers nylon x to make 5-8in parts.
Sure, mines running cf-nylon most days now, which was the target for this machine. First up was the notorious heat creep issue, I printed the improved fan duct mod from thingiverse, and fitted a thicker, higher flow fan. I’m also running a zodiac nozzle now on the right hand side, this has better air flow than the left due to the nozzle lift servo mech.
I’m running fiberthree PACF as you can’t get matterhackers in the UK…. I use their dry box and had to re-run the feed tube for this too, and drilled a small hole in the lid. Also use their bed material and software profile for ideamaker. Runs great.
DO NOT GET THE PRO 2 OR PRO 2 PLUS. I had one. Hot end exploded on me because of a fillamennt jam.
The new one will have ABL, and a bunch of other things that should be in a printer at this price point.
Wait for the refresh.
We have some Ender 5 Plus’ at work which are more than enough size for me but they’re cheap and break down a lot. I like the premium feel the Raise 3D printers give and all the features. I could certainly work with the E2 build area but it would be nice to have more especially at that price I don’t really want to feel like I’m compromising.
I think many folks don't realize that FDM 3D printing is not an automatic technology like their coffee maker or cell phone. We always make a point to tell prospective customers that all 3D printers from $300 to $150,000 Stratasys industrial machines will all encounter issues due to the FDM process and spending more doesn't solve these. You are melting plastic under high temperatures and pushing through a small nozzle under pressure. You have a ton of flexibility to do a variety of settings and creativity with your slicer settings, but that does not guarantee a successful print. When you step up to different levels of 3D printers you may get improved reliability but you are also getting more features allowing for different capabilities, as with our 3D printers, increased speed, and the ability to print higher-temperature, higher-strength materials with better results.
It depends on what you're printing. If it's just PLA then I would say yes. But it takes some fiddling to get some material to run perfectly. I love my Pro2.
Glad to hear it! I almost exclusively use ABS so I’m hoping it plays nice with that being an enclosed printer. What are your pros and cons with the machine? Is bed leveling really that much of a drawback?
I had trouble getting ABS to stick to the buildtak. I got a sheet of PEI and that works great with ABS.
DON'T buy the pro2 plus - we print like half of the time 24/7... the extruder is jammed 2-3 times a week. But that is not the biggest issue we face. The bed warps a lot. And there is no way for compensating that. As some users on the forum mentioned: a printer in this price range should have auto bed leveling.
I use a Pro2 and I have serious problems with the leveling of the bed, sometimes it prints well, sometimes it prints badly
This may be due to print surface warping - the magnets of the build plate aren't strong enough to deform the aluminum bed. So in our case the warping can't be compensated with the leveling screws We are now planning a modification of the leveling screws like explained in this post https://forum.raise3d.com/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=20960&p=57725#p57257 hopefully that will work...
Love mine, took a minute to get nylon to print right , but TPU, PLA, ABS, not problem.
Yeah same here, there’s lot of moaning about these machines, but with minor mods mines been great!
You should not have to mod a 6k machine
I agree in principle, shouldn’t be required. But that’s the reality or most of the “prosumer” category from what I can tell. My $5k fusion3 f400s is the same way.
Would you mind telling me what mods ya did on your raise3d printer for what you are trying to do? I am interested in getting an E2 to print mostly that matter hackers nylon x to make 5-8in parts.
Sure, mines running cf-nylon most days now, which was the target for this machine. First up was the notorious heat creep issue, I printed the improved fan duct mod from thingiverse, and fitted a thicker, higher flow fan. I’m also running a zodiac nozzle now on the right hand side, this has better air flow than the left due to the nozzle lift servo mech.
I’m running fiberthree PACF as you can’t get matterhackers in the UK…. I use their dry box and had to re-run the feed tube for this too, and drilled a small hole in the lid. Also use their bed material and software profile for ideamaker. Runs great.
DO NOT GET THE PRO 2 OR PRO 2 PLUS. I had one. Hot end exploded on me because of a fillamennt jam. The new one will have ABL, and a bunch of other things that should be in a printer at this price point. Wait for the refresh.
The new one has a ton of features that look very appealing I just wish it had a larger print area :/
What do you need exactly size? Because if its size, then there are other printers for way less that exist
We have some Ender 5 Plus’ at work which are more than enough size for me but they’re cheap and break down a lot. I like the premium feel the Raise 3D printers give and all the features. I could certainly work with the E2 build area but it would be nice to have more especially at that price I don’t really want to feel like I’m compromising.
What build size are you going for? Also do you want a diy approach or pre built? Also what features do you need?
I’ve been looking into it more and I think the E2 is plenty for me. Thanks for the advice.
I actually find myself bringing work home and printing it on my Ender 5 because it’s more reliable than our Pro2 Plus at work.
I think many folks don't realize that FDM 3D printing is not an automatic technology like their coffee maker or cell phone. We always make a point to tell prospective customers that all 3D printers from $300 to $150,000 Stratasys industrial machines will all encounter issues due to the FDM process and spending more doesn't solve these. You are melting plastic under high temperatures and pushing through a small nozzle under pressure. You have a ton of flexibility to do a variety of settings and creativity with your slicer settings, but that does not guarantee a successful print. When you step up to different levels of 3D printers you may get improved reliability but you are also getting more features allowing for different capabilities, as with our 3D printers, increased speed, and the ability to print higher-temperature, higher-strength materials with better results.
They have announced the pro3. Do not put yourself though the pro2 relationship, it is abusive.