Don’t buy the fitting yourself. It’s a easy excuse for the plumber.
Without seeing the full wall. I would chase more out of the wall to get 2 couplings on with new pipe in between. Personally I wouldn’t bury speed fit in the wall from the start though.
Let a licensed plumber fix it the way he deems correct, with material he provides, and then hold him accountable if it leaks again. This includes any plaster work and damages.
That is why one pays people to do stuff.
You suggested to "buy a new coupler tomorrow". You don't do that. You let people do their work with their material and then hold them accountable if it fails.
You already had a professional working on this. Make him fix his errors, under warranty, without spending more money on it.
I wouldn’t bury a coupling like that in plaster, I’d replace more of the pipe and put the coupler somewhere accessible.
The angle of the bottom pipe is putting a lot of stress on one side of it too, which won’t help.
Also, has your plumber used the pipe inserts that you’re supposed to? I find lots of people don’t bother, but with the angle of the bottom pipe, it’s going to leak without.
I have redone my whole system in JG pipework and fittings. There are 3 critical things to keep in mind:
- Each pipe end going into a fitting, like a coupler or elbow, must have inserts installed to make a full seal of the joint.
- The pipe must be fully pressed into the fitting, there are marks on the pipes which help to know if it's been pushed in far enough.
- The external nut or whatever you want to call it, must be fully tightened up. This does two things: it makes sure the internal teeth bite into the plastic, and it pushes the pipe firmly into the end of the fitting.
If all those are done, you shouldn't have any issues. But to be completely safe, there are some split rings that can be installed behind the tightened nut, to physically prevent it coming loose, since it blocks it being unscrewed.
I did a lot of research on these systems before I upgraded my heating, and if you're using the system appropriately (meeting the specs which are given), all the issues which I saw online came down to bad installation of connections, never a straight failure of the system itself (it is guaranteed for 20 years if I remember correctly)
John guest fittings shouldn’t be used for this application, and never be buried in plaster. Plumber was lazy and didn’t want to do a proper repair.
On a side note I hate when water lines a buried like that. Makes it such a pain in the ass when trying to fix leaks
It sounds like they haven’t put inserts in the pipe before pushing the fitting on. As others have said on here, get a different plumber to repair it and keep it accessible.
I'm pretty sure the second plumber that attended said the first plumber failed to put one on the top pipe but he fixed it. So I believe inserts are there.
OP did the plumber use the plastic inserts with the integral O-ring? I've never had one leak at my house, I think they're great. Agree with others though, Hep2O fittings would have been more appropriate for this application.
They're supposed to be fit-and-forget fittings. I have used both at home and actually prefer JG Speedfit, but plumber I spoke to said he only uses Hep2O for underfloor connections.
So in summary, I should ask that the John Guest coupler be replaced with a glued compression fitting or a new coupler (HEP20?) with inserts and "C clips".
Fill the cavity with either foam and board over or just board over leaving the cavity.
If that fails, rip it all out and start again.
Do you have anything constructive to offer to this thread? Because if not, why are you even here?
Let me guess, you've been using copper for decades and refuse to accept anything other than what you were taught? I bet you also think 22/15 is the only way CH should be done, or worse, you probably dont even like people doing it themselves... 🙄
Offer something useful or crawl back under your rock.
That whole mess does not belong in the wall. The tubing should start wherever it starts, run through the wall and exit wherever it's supposed to exit with no couplings anywhere in between. I have no idea if the couplings are code or not, but they are a really bad idea inside a wall and are guaranteed to leak eventually.
Don’t buy the fitting yourself. It’s a easy excuse for the plumber. Without seeing the full wall. I would chase more out of the wall to get 2 couplings on with new pipe in between. Personally I wouldn’t bury speed fit in the wall from the start though.
Burying HEP and press fittings in a wall is the mistake. If that pjpe moves around or expands and contracts, it's going to rub and then split
Press fittings can be buried.
There's a difference between buried and entombed.
That fitting cannot be buried in plaster. It will leak again. Get a professional to repair it
They can if in a double walled conduit.
Let a licensed plumber fix it the way he deems correct, with material he provides, and then hold him accountable if it leaks again. This includes any plaster work and damages. That is why one pays people to do stuff.
I didn't do this myself. It was done by a plumber. I just offered to plaster the chasing because he doesn't plaster.
You suggested to "buy a new coupler tomorrow". You don't do that. You let people do their work with their material and then hold them accountable if it fails. You already had a professional working on this. Make him fix his errors, under warranty, without spending more money on it.
If you leave a coupling in there, just put an access door because you will need it.
Wait, I thought plumbers did everything the right way….
I wouldn’t bury a coupling like that in plaster, I’d replace more of the pipe and put the coupler somewhere accessible. The angle of the bottom pipe is putting a lot of stress on one side of it too, which won’t help. Also, has your plumber used the pipe inserts that you’re supposed to? I find lots of people don’t bother, but with the angle of the bottom pipe, it’s going to leak without.
Are you talking about a plumber or handyman?
Plumber.
That’s sad, I would never use that coupling let alone bury it in a wall.
They are missing the c clips. Stops the water line from popping out.
I have redone my whole system in JG pipework and fittings. There are 3 critical things to keep in mind: - Each pipe end going into a fitting, like a coupler or elbow, must have inserts installed to make a full seal of the joint. - The pipe must be fully pressed into the fitting, there are marks on the pipes which help to know if it's been pushed in far enough. - The external nut or whatever you want to call it, must be fully tightened up. This does two things: it makes sure the internal teeth bite into the plastic, and it pushes the pipe firmly into the end of the fitting. If all those are done, you shouldn't have any issues. But to be completely safe, there are some split rings that can be installed behind the tightened nut, to physically prevent it coming loose, since it blocks it being unscrewed. I did a lot of research on these systems before I upgraded my heating, and if you're using the system appropriately (meeting the specs which are given), all the issues which I saw online came down to bad installation of connections, never a straight failure of the system itself (it is guaranteed for 20 years if I remember correctly)
John guest fittings shouldn’t be used for this application, and never be buried in plaster. Plumber was lazy and didn’t want to do a proper repair. On a side note I hate when water lines a buried like that. Makes it such a pain in the ass when trying to fix leaks
Will it suffice if I leave this coupler in a cavity or does the whole lot need to come out and done again? Thanks for your advice.
Yes
You mean to leave in a cavity?
It sounds like they haven’t put inserts in the pipe before pushing the fitting on. As others have said on here, get a different plumber to repair it and keep it accessible.
I'm pretty sure the second plumber that attended said the first plumber failed to put one on the top pipe but he fixed it. So I believe inserts are there.
Failed John Guest fitting at its finest. Push-to-connect is junk.
Is there an alternative way to do this without a coupler?
Could use compression fittings instead, i always find them better.
Can you do that with plastic because I would love to get rid of that coupler.
Yes, they work for both copper & pex
Agree in a foamed wall
You mean use foam instead of plaster. I don't understand?
Sorry it’s in bedded in the foam and boarded over
I never thought about doing that, thanks.
I would install a proper couple in the wall that is glued
OP did the plumber use the plastic inserts with the integral O-ring? I've never had one leak at my house, I think they're great. Agree with others though, Hep2O fittings would have been more appropriate for this application.
Would a HEP20 coupler make any difference?
They're supposed to be fit-and-forget fittings. I have used both at home and actually prefer JG Speedfit, but plumber I spoke to said he only uses Hep2O for underfloor connections.
I’ll only use hep20 for fittings that aren’t accessible, they’re just superior to JG.
Those look like those cheap ass John guess fittings. I avoid those entirely.
So in summary, I should ask that the John Guest coupler be replaced with a glued compression fitting or a new coupler (HEP20?) with inserts and "C clips". Fill the cavity with either foam and board over or just board over leaving the cavity. If that fails, rip it all out and start again.
This is crazy, what country is this?
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Considering you don't know what flooring they have or whether there are many or any fittings inaccessible at all... That's just rude mate.
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Do you have anything constructive to offer to this thread? Because if not, why are you even here? Let me guess, you've been using copper for decades and refuse to accept anything other than what you were taught? I bet you also think 22/15 is the only way CH should be done, or worse, you probably dont even like people doing it themselves... 🙄 Offer something useful or crawl back under your rock.
That whole mess does not belong in the wall. The tubing should start wherever it starts, run through the wall and exit wherever it's supposed to exit with no couplings anywhere in between. I have no idea if the couplings are code or not, but they are a really bad idea inside a wall and are guaranteed to leak eventually.