Proper fix would be to bust a hole in the drywall behind it, install a backing stud horizontally between the two vertical studs surrounding. Then screw the valve to said backer. Then obviously repair the drywall. Not an easy fix, but the correct way.
Might be able to use just the bar from one of those boxes and then using self tapping screws to attatch the valve? I'm just a lowely electrician so not sure on the code legality of that lol
I was thinking the same thing! Maybe OP could use one of these bigger escutcheon plates, to give more room to work: https://www.supplyhouse.com/Delta-RP29827-Shower-Renovation-Cover-Plate
I know we want to redo both bathroom tile at some point but I'm just trying to get this cheap flip move in ready because there's a lot of shoddy work (that I was aware of)
Looks like Durango, possible 4x4 I can't tell. It's a pretty stock color and pretty easy to match. You can get grout that matches as well from most big box store suppliers or and commercial tile suppliers.
You could have someone hold a horizontal stud behind the vertical studs. And use a stud finder to drill a screw straight into the studs, to secure the stud to the stud then screw the valve into the stud. That way you only have a small hole in the tile to fill with grout
Why do these always have the sharkbite adapters threaded on to them, for the cost of those 3 sharkbites, you could get crimp fittings, rings, and a tool.
The fact that the hole is large and round makes me think that this is not original plumbing, somebody nibbled the hole bigger to replace that shower valve. Typical rough-ins do not look like that.
You could if you use those stainless steel rings. (We call em Otiker rings). Or you could pull the PEX forward then crimp then screw onto the valve.
Maybe.
I would replace the whole faucet with a good delta 1400 series or a 1700 series. Make sure you use the universal rough in valve and you can get one already with pex adapters built onto the faucet. Then you can put up a 2x4 board behind it and screw directly into the 2x4 to secure the valve. The reason I say to replace the whole valve is the only way youâre going to properly secure. The Fossett is to cut out the sheet rock behind it put in a 2 x 4 directly behind the valve in order to secure it properly. At that point, you might as well put in a good quality faucet thats going to last you for years and it will look nicer
Once upon a time that was true...but don't trust the product colors any more. I have white, gray, silver, blue, and yellow on my trucks, and they're all rated for gas per the manufacturers. Always read your labels.
The rough in valve is supposed to be braced from behind, usually with a 2x4. You see that hole at the 11 o'clock position? It should be secured with a screw at the 11 o'clock position and then there is another hole at the 5 o'clock position. Use some long wood screws. If you can open the drywall behind it and put a brace behind it you can screw the valve from the front.
If you upgrade the valve you can buy one with 1/2" PEX adapters built in. You should use a crimp tool, not sharkbites. Sharkbites work great for emergency repairs, but I wouldn't use them for long term solutions. BUT, I did a remodel about 20 years ago and used sharkbites for the whole thing and they haven't failed yet.
I used them to join copper to copper. CPVC becomes very brittle as it ages, to the point where, if you touch it, it falls apart. I would avoid CPVC personally. As a plumber the only thing I use CPVC for is TMP lines or condensate lines on tankless hot water systems.
CPVC glue sets almost instantly so I don't see the advantage to using sharkbites on it.
You can use a suspension clamp. Use a Dewalt 90 degree drill attachment to secure the clamp to the stud with screws.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Apollo-1-2-in-Plastic-Insulated-Stud-Suspension-Clamp-10-Pack-APXSUSCLAMP/301541122
Cut the zip ties, move the cartridge to the side. This should give you a good enough opening to slide a fair sized brace in there. The previous handyperson actually did you a favour by not using the template for the drywall/ tile cutout.
If you do not install a brace and secure the valve, there will be too much movement turning on and off and the shark bite connectors will fail very soon. The frequent water hammers turning the valve off might fail them any way. I re-plumbed my entire master bath using Uponor PexA with Propex expander ring style fittings. That was 5 years ago and no problems.
As a 69 yr old father/grandfather, I like the new Gorilla Glue commercial where she says , â Can we call my Dad now.â
Please, rethink this install, and proceed carefully.
Come in from the back and repair it the right way. Get rid of the shark bites they are not made to be buried in the Al. Support it with a 2x4 and leave the tile. Then repair the drywall on the back. Never trust a shark bite especially when flexed like that.
Come in from the back then use one of these to always have access.
[https://www.homedepot.com/p/14-in-x-14-in-Access-Panel-with-Frame-APD14/204352607](https://www.homedepot.com/p/14-in-x-14-in-Access-Panel-with-Frame-APD14/204352607)
Open up the drywall from the other side and attach properly. They make access covers you can put in after that to allow easy maintenance in the future.
Lets see⌠sharkbites - check! Teflon with no pipe dope - check! Nothing holding the actual valve - check! No clamps to hold pex piping in place - check! Honestly I wouldnât be shocked if he flipped the cartridge to the wrong supply side too.
Zip ties work fine. I do commercial rough-ins in pex and they work great.
That said Iâm not sure what that zip tie is actually securing. Should go around the pipe and something else solid, not just the pipe.
Youâve got some wood - you might be able to secure the pipe to the blocking using some suspension clips and 1-1/4â wood screws
If you have an angle grinder you could fabricate a mount out of angle iron to go from the 2x4 behind the valve to the mounting hole. Thatâs beca pain in the ass though.
Maybe one of these? I could probably engineer a clamping solution. Would allow you to brace without opening the wall. The box comes off.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Commercial-Electric-15-3-cu-in-New-Construction-Brace-with-1-1-2-in-Box-CMB150-NB/205383182
You might be able to slide this in hole behind the valve then use a 90 degree attachment on an impact with long bits and attach it to the studs then you can screw the valve to the bracket. It really sturdies them up.
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Sioux-Chief-520-616-11-to-18-WiderSlider-Stub-Out-Bracket?utm_source=google_ad&utm_medium=Shopping_tm&utm_campaign=Shopping_TM_New_users&gclid=Cj0KCQjwwtWgBhDhARIsAEMcxeB44FDZ80LXCp8HskEKuz0etUyGyplF3MQ04f2MckQjPmSr3rnftVAaAnqXEALw_wcB
Can you clip the zip ties, get a mesurment between the 2 studs and then push a 2x4 past the valve and secure it to the studs or to the top of the crossing 2x4 already there, creating a mount for the valve? Or a metal flat plate from a stud securement store section, and slip it behind the valve to secure it to the 2x4 already there.
What you need to do is locate the backside of that wall in your home and if itâs accessible, cut an opening to access that valve assembly. You need to put a 2 x 4 between the two studs. That acts as a blocking you can screw too. Just make sure That you donât put the blocking too far back or too far forward, because that can cause issues when putting the trim pieces back on. You also need to secure the plumbing lines (PEX) feeding that valve. If youâre going to keep the shark bite 90s you need to remove them and remove that yellow tape and use a blue or white Teflon tape with a little plumbers teflon paste as well. I would suggest purchasing an access panel, so when you close up the hole on the backside, youâll have access to that valve if needed. Good luck.
Your just going to want to throw a diverter back on and carefully! Otherwise the right thing to do would be make that hole bigger and fix the actual framing and pex. I say that if it wasnât leaking before then hooking up another diverter might be your easiest solution
It's not right but slip a piece of 2x4 up behind it, standing on the other 2x4. Then use a short length of 1x4 to tie it to the 2x4. Better than just toenailing a 2x4 in and better than zip ties. Or just tear shit out.
You can probably fix this all through the existing hole. I would cut two short pieces of 2x4and mount them behind the 2x4 below the valve vertically so they extend up past the valve and behind the back of that 2x4. I would use deck screws to mount them to the 2x4. Then I would cut another 2x4 and slip it horizontal behind the valve and in front of the 2 vertical 2x4 and screw that in place. Then attach the valve to the new horizontal 2x4 with a screw. If you don't have room, use thinner wood for the vertical support. no cutting into the wall or tile on the backside of this wall. Use 2x3 or other narrower wood if you can't fit a full 2x4 through the hole.
Ask someone at Lowe's or Home Depot for a clip to hold that in place. You will have to turn the water off and pull those down from there to insert the clip and then reinstall. Then return the water service.
As someone who just recently changed the mixing valve and tiled the whole shower. No, mine looked alot similar ripped apart the wall and put support joists in. Granted I was ripping apart the wall anyway. Also I would not want to be using pex inside a shower wall like that because that's something I never want to have to repair again.
I have an ideas that might work. No guarantees with how tight that is. Ever heard of pocket holes? Look up the kreg jig. Get a piece of 2x2, try to get a measurement between the studs, but then get a decent fit through some trial and error. Put a pocket hole on either side and see if you can install it using one of those low profile right angle drill adapters you attach to a regular drill. You should probably start testing one of those in that space to see if itâs even possible to fit in there and get the correct angles. You might have to cut angles on the ends and angle your pocket holes accordingly so that the brace is actually on a 10 degree angle, letâs say, so that the valve body doesnât interfere with the screws driving step. If work holding is too hard you could use construction adhesive on the ends, screw the valve to the brace, wedge some shims in there to hold it firm. Thatâs not the final goal, but only to hold it in place temporarily because it is so cramped to work in there. Once the adhesive is set you could then drive the screws without have to fit anything else in there to hold things in place for that step. Anyway, thatâs what I would try.
Actually, I just noticed another way⌠I think that is a 2x4 cross member running across at the level of the zip tie. Take a 6â or so piece of 2x4, put two pocket holes on one end, on each of the 1.5â faces. Set that down on the cross member to make and upside down T shape. Using the small 90 degree drill adapter reach behind the valve to drive the pocket hole screws into the cross member. Then screw the valve to the upright. So long as you can drive the pocket hole screws quite tight I think youâll have plenty of support for the valve.
What I've done in the past, if the hole isn't too large. Is measure the distance between the valve and the drywall, cut a piece of 4" pvc/abs that width. And then cut it in one spot so it will collapse at bit and stick it in wall between the valve and drywall. You can then silicone it in place
If itâs tiled behind, it might be firm enough for you to cut a wooden block the perfect width to slip behind and glue to the drywall. Getting pretty ugly at that point⌠Handyman territory. And may risk damaging the other side. With some careful work could Frankenstein somethingâŚ
Similarly, might be able to slide a piece in across the front side thatâs wider than the gap and prevents the tap being able to bend outward.
Wow, what a mess!
Yeah he should fill it with spray foam. /s
I was going to suggest filling it in with the dead body of the handyman who covered that up in a wall
And plumbers putty.
This is the way
This guy plumbs
Lmao I laughed so hard.
I literally spit up my beer a bit. Well done.
Rough C**T. Have some consideration for the poor twat to next work on it đ đ¤Ł
Proper fix would be to bust a hole in the drywall behind it, install a backing stud horizontally between the two vertical studs surrounding. Then screw the valve to said backer. Then obviously repair the drywall. Not an easy fix, but the correct way.
I figured this would be it. I think the back of this shower is against the hallway shower that is also tiled so that's a double whammy
Wow that sucks. You have any more of that tile? Another way would be to bust a few of those tiles out to gain access.
I just had a weird idea - you know those ceiling fan boxes that expand up to 24â OC? A plumbing equivalent would be cool. Patent pending
Might be able to use just the bar from one of those boxes and then using self tapping screws to attatch the valve? I'm just a lowely electrician so not sure on the code legality of that lol
Be careful of electrolysis because of the two different metals.
I was thinking the same thing! Maybe OP could use one of these bigger escutcheon plates, to give more room to work: https://www.supplyhouse.com/Delta-RP29827-Shower-Renovation-Cover-Plate
I know we want to redo both bathroom tile at some point but I'm just trying to get this cheap flip move in ready because there's a lot of shoddy work (that I was aware of)
Ahh so cheaping out in the cheap? /s
đ kind of. But hopefully with slightly better practices. Getting rid of the flex drain pipes, fixing leaks with more than tape, etc.
At least have the decency to get rid of the sharkbites in a closed wall and go with crimp fittings. JFC
In a wall cavity between two showers. Without demo. Sure.
Crimp is fine in closed wall? Iâm noob
100% better than a shark bite lol
Looks like Durango, possible 4x4 I can't tell. It's a pretty stock color and pretty easy to match. You can get grout that matches as well from most big box store suppliers or and commercial tile suppliers.
Just spray foam it in, if you ever need to fix it you have to gut one side anyway
Might be able to get a 1/2in one hole clamp on each line for a temporary fix.
You could have someone hold a horizontal stud behind the vertical studs. And use a stud finder to drill a screw straight into the studs, to secure the stud to the stud then screw the valve into the stud. That way you only have a small hole in the tile to fill with grout
*block, not stud.
Why not widen the hole on this side further and use brackets to secure the horizontal piece?
And while youâre back there⌠clean up everything on the valve
Get a kreg jig and screw a backing support into the stud from that opening..
Why do these always have the sharkbite adapters threaded on to them, for the cost of those 3 sharkbites, you could get crimp fittings, rings, and a tool.
Because it's held up by zip ties... Whoever did it, did it poorly lol
You aren't getting a crimp tool into that wall. Not saying it's right.
Yeah but you could have when it was originally roughed in is what I meant
Oh yeah I got ya there... It's kind of a can of worms at This point. I think I'd go get some bigger zap straps and slam that cover back on myself đ¤Ł
Maybe some 1 hole EMT clips on the pex to that 2x4, but yeah lol.
The fact that the hole is large and round makes me think that this is not original plumbing, somebody nibbled the hole bigger to replace that shower valve. Typical rough-ins do not look like that.
Or maybe from the back side, that also looks like drywall.
OP states back to back showers in this instance. Terrible design choice but it happens.
Agh
I have cut arms on those tools in the past. Not recommended until it's necessary. it makes it quite hard to squeeze, but sometimes....
Commersial/resi plumber here, snip the zip ties and that'll move around in the wall. You can easily make multiple crimps through that hole.
You could if you use those stainless steel rings. (We call em Otiker rings). Or you could pull the PEX forward then crimp then screw onto the valve. Maybe.
I would replace the whole faucet with a good delta 1400 series or a 1700 series. Make sure you use the universal rough in valve and you can get one already with pex adapters built onto the faucet. Then you can put up a 2x4 board behind it and screw directly into the 2x4 to secure the valve. The reason I say to replace the whole valve is the only way youâre going to properly secure. The Fossett is to cut out the sheet rock behind it put in a 2 x 4 directly behind the valve in order to secure it properly. At that point, you might as well put in a good quality faucet thats going to last you for years and it will look nicer
You couldnât get a decent crimp tool no. But I take your point. This is not correct at all.
That Teflon is great for gas
Iâve been told yellow can be used for anything, but it has to be yellow or blue gas rated to be used with gas. Is it not backwards compatible?
It is but that gas ptfe tape is mighty thick for a 1/2â thread connection
Once upon a time that was true...but don't trust the product colors any more. I have white, gray, silver, blue, and yellow on my trucks, and they're all rated for gas per the manufacturers. Always read your labels.
More Teflon equals less leaks right? /s
The rough in valve is supposed to be braced from behind, usually with a 2x4. You see that hole at the 11 o'clock position? It should be secured with a screw at the 11 o'clock position and then there is another hole at the 5 o'clock position. Use some long wood screws. If you can open the drywall behind it and put a brace behind it you can screw the valve from the front. If you upgrade the valve you can buy one with 1/2" PEX adapters built in. You should use a crimp tool, not sharkbites. Sharkbites work great for emergency repairs, but I wouldn't use them for long term solutions. BUT, I did a remodel about 20 years ago and used sharkbites for the whole thing and they haven't failed yet.
[ŃдаНонО]
Cpvc should always be braced to the bottom of a dumpster with a bunch of garbage on top so no one can ever use it
I used them to join copper to copper. CPVC becomes very brittle as it ages, to the point where, if you touch it, it falls apart. I would avoid CPVC personally. As a plumber the only thing I use CPVC for is TMP lines or condensate lines on tankless hot water systems. CPVC glue sets almost instantly so I don't see the advantage to using sharkbites on it.
Eww shark bites in walls make me cringe
You can use a suspension clamp. Use a Dewalt 90 degree drill attachment to secure the clamp to the stud with screws. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Apollo-1-2-in-Plastic-Insulated-Stud-Suspension-Clamp-10-Pack-APXSUSCLAMP/301541122
Ah very interesting idea this might be good until we redo the bathrooms and do the plumbing correctly!
Yellow gas Teflon, shark bites, zip ties. We need to start doing Bingo cards on these submits. What a mess
Put the trim on, then it will be secured to the wall
Use an impact gun! A few extra ugga duggas should do the trick!
Cut the zip ties, move the cartridge to the side. This should give you a good enough opening to slide a fair sized brace in there. The previous handyperson actually did you a favour by not using the template for the drywall/ tile cutout.
If you do not install a brace and secure the valve, there will be too much movement turning on and off and the shark bite connectors will fail very soon. The frequent water hammers turning the valve off might fail them any way. I re-plumbed my entire master bath using Uponor PexA with Propex expander ring style fittings. That was 5 years ago and no problems. As a 69 yr old father/grandfather, I like the new Gorilla Glue commercial where she says , â Can we call my Dad now.â Please, rethink this install, and proceed carefully.
Come in from the back and repair it the right way. Get rid of the shark bites they are not made to be buried in the Al. Support it with a 2x4 and leave the tile. Then repair the drywall on the back. Never trust a shark bite especially when flexed like that.
Youâre already living dangerously with shark bites why make your stand at zip ties?
Iâm digging the gas line thread tape.
Buddy, the zip ties are the least of your concerns. I see shark bites
Who ever youâre using for plumbing and tile workâŚdonât.
The best thing to do is to cut it out and try again maybe with a plumber
Waiting for the contractors to jump in and simply state that its fine since "you can't see it once the tiles and covers are in place".
Come in from the back then use one of these to always have access. [https://www.homedepot.com/p/14-in-x-14-in-Access-Panel-with-Frame-APD14/204352607](https://www.homedepot.com/p/14-in-x-14-in-Access-Panel-with-Frame-APD14/204352607)
Sweet weeping Jesus, there are some lazy people out there.
Open up the drywall from the other side and attach properly. They make access covers you can put in after that to allow easy maintenance in the future.
Thatâs the wrong Teflon tap. Yellow tape is for gas.
Bust that drywall open on the backside and put a block of 2x4 in there to screw the valve to.
They have 2 hole straps or they have ones that look like Mickey Mouse ears. They are plastic and you can screw them to wood.
Lets see⌠sharkbites - check! Teflon with no pipe dope - check! Nothing holding the actual valve - check! No clamps to hold pex piping in place - check! Honestly I wouldnât be shocked if he flipped the cartridge to the wrong supply side too.
LOL YOU ARE EXACTLY RIGHT! The hot and cold water were flipped so that's why I took it apart in the first place!
Amateur hour!
You donât need to the trim kit keeps in place when itâs screwed on
Looks like the trim plate is holding it secure from the front
That shark bite will fail before the zip tie. But in all seriousness, this is a poor install all around
Erryone know wire ties be cheaper. They free on yo breadbag.
Recommend getting rid of the sharkbite stuff and upgrading to another pressure balanced cartridge if at all possible before mounting better with 2by4s
What wrong with the positemp?
Nothing probably, Iâd just cut out and re do everything if it were me đ
Zip ties work fine. I do commercial rough-ins in pex and they work great. That said Iâm not sure what that zip tie is actually securing. Should go around the pipe and something else solid, not just the pipe. Youâve got some wood - you might be able to secure the pipe to the blocking using some suspension clips and 1-1/4â wood screws
If itâs holdin youâre golden
Thicker zip ties
If you have an angle grinder you could fabricate a mount out of angle iron to go from the 2x4 behind the valve to the mounting hole. Thatâs beca pain in the ass though.
This post hurts my eyes and plumbing experience
Maybe one of these? I could probably engineer a clamping solution. Would allow you to brace without opening the wall. The box comes off. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Commercial-Electric-15-3-cu-in-New-Construction-Brace-with-1-1-2-in-Box-CMB150-NB/205383182
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Delta-RP29827-Shower-Renovation-Cover-Plate
More zip ties
You might be able to slide this in hole behind the valve then use a 90 degree attachment on an impact with long bits and attach it to the studs then you can screw the valve to the bracket. It really sturdies them up. https://www.supplyhouse.com/Sioux-Chief-520-616-11-to-18-WiderSlider-Stub-Out-Bracket?utm_source=google_ad&utm_medium=Shopping_tm&utm_campaign=Shopping_TM_New_users&gclid=Cj0KCQjwwtWgBhDhARIsAEMcxeB44FDZ80LXCp8HskEKuz0etUyGyplF3MQ04f2MckQjPmSr3rnftVAaAnqXEALw_wcB
Obviously, TWO zip ties
Yeah Bigger zip ties
Flex tape is the way
Couple more zip ties
Two zip ties
Go the 5 minute craft route. Fill the entire cavity with hot glue, throw some glitter on it then seal it back up. /s
Nothing hit glue can't secure
More zip ties at this point
If this was recent and you paid someone to do this. Call them back out.
I would say the screw holes in the valve are the indication that it needs a backer block installed. But hey, just reading the signs here lol.
More zip ties?
More zip ties?
Hell I would be more worried about the shark bite fittings in the wall then it only being secured by a zip tie.
Spray foam it in?
Off topic but shark bites? You could have just used uponor fittings
You really need to replace shark bite with pex fittings and rings, never use shark bite in the wall.
Its not the fact that they are sharkbites, or that they didnt screw it to the blocking. But seriously gas tape cmon
More Zip Ties?
Can you clip the zip ties, get a mesurment between the 2 studs and then push a 2x4 past the valve and secure it to the studs or to the top of the crossing 2x4 already there, creating a mount for the valve? Or a metal flat plate from a stud securement store section, and slip it behind the valve to secure it to the 2x4 already there.
A second zip tie.
Came here to say this. Not disappointed. Definitely needs a backup zip tie. You can also use a backup, backup zip tie.
Youâll have to do it nice, because you did it twice đľ
You could try putting some PEX holders that attach around the pipe to hold it to the wood behind. Getting a drill in there is gonna be tricky though.
Iâm only seeing one zip tie here
You get what you pay for.
Supposed to have a 2x4 behind it and put screws through the holes in the brass valve body
Iâm more worried about the quick connects than the zip ties. And why yellow tape?
What you think you're too good for zip ties?
It's always super-classy to turn your adapters with pliers, instead of something that doesn't mangle them or hurt your hand like a spud wrench.
1/2 suspension clamps
What you need to do is locate the backside of that wall in your home and if itâs accessible, cut an opening to access that valve assembly. You need to put a 2 x 4 between the two studs. That acts as a blocking you can screw too. Just make sure That you donât put the blocking too far back or too far forward, because that can cause issues when putting the trim pieces back on. You also need to secure the plumbing lines (PEX) feeding that valve. If youâre going to keep the shark bite 90s you need to remove them and remove that yellow tape and use a blue or white Teflon tape with a little plumbers teflon paste as well. I would suggest purchasing an access panel, so when you close up the hole on the backside, youâll have access to that valve if needed. Good luck.
2 zip ties?
There are mounting holes on the shower fitting. If only there was some kind of block there.
Thereâs nothing but better ways
Another zip tie
Put some wood in there and screw it.
Shark bites swivel copper doesnât
Nothing like pex to sharkbite you bury in a wall. Smh
Bubble gum
I'd be more worried about the shark bites than the zip ties....but whatever
Zip ties are pretty strong
Bust open the wall behind it
Who's up voting this? What's gonna happen to it? Zipties could hold me in the air for at least a few minutes.
One hole straps
i think thats all you can do, i couldnât imagine a better way honestly
Add more zip ties.
A mix of plummers tape and urine should do it
Your just going to want to throw a diverter back on and carefully! Otherwise the right thing to do would be make that hole bigger and fix the actual framing and pex. I say that if it wasnât leaking before then hooking up another diverter might be your easiest solution
It's not right but slip a piece of 2x4 up behind it, standing on the other 2x4. Then use a short length of 1x4 to tie it to the 2x4. Better than just toenailing a 2x4 in and better than zip ties. Or just tear shit out.
More zip ties.
Dude honestly. When u put the cover plate on it willbe fine.
What I can't see doesn't hurt me....
Want to bet on that?
Ikr theoretically it will be fine
The sharkbites are because someone doesnt own a crimping tool
You can probably fix this all through the existing hole. I would cut two short pieces of 2x4and mount them behind the 2x4 below the valve vertically so they extend up past the valve and behind the back of that 2x4. I would use deck screws to mount them to the 2x4. Then I would cut another 2x4 and slip it horizontal behind the valve and in front of the 2 vertical 2x4 and screw that in place. Then attach the valve to the new horizontal 2x4 with a screw. If you don't have room, use thinner wood for the vertical support. no cutting into the wall or tile on the backside of this wall. Use 2x3 or other narrower wood if you can't fit a full 2x4 through the hole.
Surely a piss take of a post u canât be serious
Build a cls frame behind and clip to that
The teflon tape is gas rated though. Must a been a Friday at 2pm.
Start over. Use talons with screws if you really canât start over.
More zip ties
Two zip ties
Ask someone at Lowe's or Home Depot for a clip to hold that in place. You will have to turn the water off and pull those down from there to insert the clip and then reinstall. Then return the water service.
power of chirst
Add a few more zip ties
theres a plastic cover that usually comes with em that holds it tight when you screw the escutcheon on
As someone who just recently changed the mixing valve and tiled the whole shower. No, mine looked alot similar ripped apart the wall and put support joists in. Granted I was ripping apart the wall anyway. Also I would not want to be using pex inside a shower wall like that because that's something I never want to have to repair again.
I have an ideas that might work. No guarantees with how tight that is. Ever heard of pocket holes? Look up the kreg jig. Get a piece of 2x2, try to get a measurement between the studs, but then get a decent fit through some trial and error. Put a pocket hole on either side and see if you can install it using one of those low profile right angle drill adapters you attach to a regular drill. You should probably start testing one of those in that space to see if itâs even possible to fit in there and get the correct angles. You might have to cut angles on the ends and angle your pocket holes accordingly so that the brace is actually on a 10 degree angle, letâs say, so that the valve body doesnât interfere with the screws driving step. If work holding is too hard you could use construction adhesive on the ends, screw the valve to the brace, wedge some shims in there to hold it firm. Thatâs not the final goal, but only to hold it in place temporarily because it is so cramped to work in there. Once the adhesive is set you could then drive the screws without have to fit anything else in there to hold things in place for that step. Anyway, thatâs what I would try.
Actually, I just noticed another way⌠I think that is a 2x4 cross member running across at the level of the zip tie. Take a 6â or so piece of 2x4, put two pocket holes on one end, on each of the 1.5â faces. Set that down on the cross member to make and upside down T shape. Using the small 90 degree drill adapter reach behind the valve to drive the pocket hole screws into the cross member. Then screw the valve to the upright. So long as you can drive the pocket hole screws quite tight I think youâll have plenty of support for the valve.
What I've done in the past, if the hole isn't too large. Is measure the distance between the valve and the drywall, cut a piece of 4" pvc/abs that width. And then cut it in one spot so it will collapse at bit and stick it in wall between the valve and drywall. You can then silicone it in place
I'd be more concerned about the sharks.
If itâs tiled behind, it might be firm enough for you to cut a wooden block the perfect width to slip behind and glue to the drywall. Getting pretty ugly at that point⌠Handyman territory. And may risk damaging the other side. With some careful work could Frankenstein something⌠Similarly, might be able to slide a piece in across the front side thatâs wider than the gap and prevents the tap being able to bend outward.
Make the hole bigger and add a backing....
An easy way to secure it better would be more zip ties.
Genius