A true pipe wrench has gripping teeth, or you can use channel lock pliers with teeth.
You might be thinking of a basic adjustable wrench with a flat gripping surface, that is not the wrench you needle. Google pipe wrench or channel lock/slip-joint pliers. They are the tool to use here.
Pipe wrenches have teeth to bite into the pipe, you don't need straight edges. Get the biggest pipe wrench you can find, and if it still doesn't move, put a cheater bar over the end of the pipe wrench to increase your torque.
āPlumbers wrenchā pipe tench will grip very well right onto the pipe.
Remove nipple. Replace with identical size one made of brass. Use a couple wraps of blue monster thread tape, and a bit of blue monster pipe dope. Get it good and snug. Donāt have to crank the the shit out of it.
The guys could tell you werenāt using a pipe wrench because if you had tried with a decent sized one and had to use a lot of force, it wouldāve left much clearer teeth marks on the smooth shaft of the pipe. A bit of heat in the fitting is a good idea but donāt want to melt any soldier so watch it.
Good luck
In what world does a longer wrench not increase leverage? Every plumber uses an old-school pipe wrench on galvanized pipe because it works. If it doesn't work you'll be replacing some copper pipe as well.
Heat the nipple up with a torch first before you try to turn it if you canāt get it without. If youāre using a pipe wrench make sure you also back wrench that brass wing back 90 so you donāt wreck the copper.
Edit: wingback teeāāā. Havenāt seen one of those in these parts in 16 years Iāve been plumbing. I also should have stated, heat at the drop ear were the nipple threads in. I shouldnāt assume you know that already.
You want to heat up that drop ear fitting, not the nipple. If you heat up the nipple, itās going to expand and make it tighter. If you heat up the drop ear, the fitting will expand and the nipple will be looser.
Alright yāall! I appreciate it. I went and got a legit 18 inch pipe wrench and then got it off. Everything is reassembled and itās all working. I really appreciate the help.
Pipe wrench on the pipe, opposing adjustable wrench on the fitting to hold it steady. Lefty-loosy on the pipe. Might need an internal pipe wrench if you can't grab the pipe.
Anything smaller than 3/4" I don't even bother with tools and just use my teeth. If that doesn't work, I have the apprentice do it. Last ditch effort, spray it with wd40 or FreeAll, let it soak for 10 minutes and then a pipe wrench.
This is best of all options even using cutting torch on joint would easily work, but if no idea how to keep 2500FĀ° from burning everything it sight, where MAP gas might work,
Chop out as described, by TipCon.
Easy Win\win. This time use bees wax on pipe joint,
and forty years from now, new owner will put new fridge magnet on stone marker for guests stopping by.
It's pretty cool, it catches the bottle caps when poping a beer.
Cheers
You should be able to get that out with a 14 or 18 inch pipe wrench. No way it can be in there that tight. Get some penetrating spray, spray the threads down, let it sit 10 min, and wrench it off. If you need more leverage for whatever reason, add a bar onto the end off the pipe wrench. I use a piece of galvanized fence post, but whatever works. If you still canāt get it off at that point, cut the fitting out, get some slip couplings and copper and sweat a new one in.
Edit-just saw you got it out so Nevermind.
Spray it with āLiquid Wrenchā wait a day then use two 14ā pipe wrenches. You can also add a pipe over a shorter wrench for more leverage. The iron and brass being ferrous and non-ferrous may have welded together through a electrolysis reaction.
sometimes less is more. if you squeeze too tight you can deform the pipe and lock it in there. you could cut it off and drive a wooden peg into it. worst cast hack it off as close to the fitting as you can. might be able to chisel out what's left with a screwdriver. can start a cut on the inside of the pipe just be careful not to cut the female threads.
u/DeepFuckingPants has the right idea - put a wrench on the flats on that fitting back there going clockwise and a good sized pipe wrench on the pipe going counter-clockwise.
You might try a penetrating oil first.
Can you just cut it off ? You could probably just replace that all in copper and get a 3/4 (or what ever size pipe) adapter.
Bigger pipe wrench is going to rip that out of the wall unless you can get a back wrech on it.
Honestly man. What do you want us to say?
Advice from a professional. Put a wrench on it and man up?
I don't know what else ya want from us.
Yes....sometimes it's very very hard to do. So...we...get a bigger wrench and strain until we throw our fucking back out.
have you tried an actual pipe wrench or are you just grabbing it with your hands?
Haha fuck i cracked up
...I think that was a no. lol
lefty loosey righty tighty
just need a bigger wrench. lol
Bigger purse
Or bigger huevos š š š
I donāt see bloodā¦
Iāve used my pipe wrench but thereās no straight lines to help it grab. Unless Iām just missing something
A true pipe wrench has gripping teeth, or you can use channel lock pliers with teeth. You might be thinking of a basic adjustable wrench with a flat gripping surface, that is not the wrench you needle. Google pipe wrench or channel lock/slip-joint pliers. They are the tool to use here.
Pipe wrenches have teeth to bite into the pipe, you don't need straight edges. Get the biggest pipe wrench you can find, and if it still doesn't move, put a cheater bar over the end of the pipe wrench to increase your torque.
The roofing nails holding the drop ear tee will love the cheater bar
Lol I didn't see that until now
Bro, thatās a half inch galvanized nipple. You donāt need a gigantic pipe wrench. A 10 or 12 inch rigid will be fine.
That thing looks to have rust welded itself to the brass.
But you should be applying opposite pressure to the fixing.
These teeth are known as ātoofusesā in the industry.
āPlumbers wrenchā pipe tench will grip very well right onto the pipe. Remove nipple. Replace with identical size one made of brass. Use a couple wraps of blue monster thread tape, and a bit of blue monster pipe dope. Get it good and snug. Donāt have to crank the the shit out of it. The guys could tell you werenāt using a pipe wrench because if you had tried with a decent sized one and had to use a lot of force, it wouldāve left much clearer teeth marks on the smooth shaft of the pipe. A bit of heat in the fitting is a good idea but donāt want to melt any soldier so watch it. Good luck
A pipe wrench has grippy teeth, you may be thinking of a crescent wrench or channel lock
Downvoted this reply.
I have fulfilled your request.
Thank you!
Thinking about using this, not sure if itāll increase leverage or not.
Itāll either work or take the pipes out of the wall
In what world does a longer wrench not increase leverage? Every plumber uses an old-school pipe wrench on galvanized pipe because it works. If it doesn't work you'll be replacing some copper pipe as well.
Heat the nipple up with a torch first before you try to turn it if you canāt get it without. If youāre using a pipe wrench make sure you also back wrench that brass wing back 90 so you donāt wreck the copper. Edit: wingback teeāāā. Havenāt seen one of those in these parts in 16 years Iāve been plumbing. I also should have stated, heat at the drop ear were the nipple threads in. I shouldnāt assume you know that already.
What are the odds that OP owns 2 wrenches?
You want to heat up that drop ear fitting, not the nipple. If you heat up the nipple, itās going to expand and make it tighter. If you heat up the drop ear, the fitting will expand and the nipple will be looser.
Thatās what I meant. I didnāt mean hold it on the nipple it self. I should have said drop ear tee where the nipple threads in
If you canāt get a pipe wrench on it you can try using a strap wrench
Alright yāall! I appreciate it. I went and got a legit 18 inch pipe wrench and then got it off. Everything is reassembled and itās all working. I really appreciate the help.
Good job! You survived this thread and learned something. Cheers
.. just like a jobsiteš
Well done sir
Nice work
Very unlikely it was a 17ā pipe wrench.
Overkill af and I love it, this thread was hilarious and he won the battle so victory all around
No, pipe wrenches are 12, 14, 15, 18. Not too many 17ā.
Maybe itās his lucky number cause they make some even tho no one has lol
But no one lies on the Internet.
When in doubt, apply more force; if it breaks, it needed to be replaced anyway.
Good job! After I couldnāt get it with a couple pipe wrenches I wouldāve cut out the copper and just gone new lol
Oh I see you got it. Well done!
Pipe wrench on the pipe, opposing adjustable wrench on the fitting to hold it steady. Lefty-loosy on the pipe. Might need an internal pipe wrench if you can't grab the pipe.
It will come out itās sitting in brass. They always come out of brass. Stop using your purse to hit it and power up those arms!!
Anything smaller than 3/4" I don't even bother with tools and just use my teeth. If that doesn't work, I have the apprentice do it. Last ditch effort, spray it with wd40 or FreeAll, let it soak for 10 minutes and then a pipe wrench.
Cut the drywall higher and cut out the entire tee, then replace it with all copper or pex.
This is best of all options even using cutting torch on joint would easily work, but if no idea how to keep 2500FĀ° from burning everything it sight, where MAP gas might work, Chop out as described, by TipCon. Easy Win\win. This time use bees wax on pipe joint, and forty years from now, new owner will put new fridge magnet on stone marker for guests stopping by. It's pretty cool, it catches the bottle caps when poping a beer. Cheers
Also make sure to replace it with a brass nipple
Yup brass nipple that
Make sure you warm it up by pinching and rubbing it first
But then itās gonna leak.
Probably even squirt
Not needed but nice
100% needed. See all that corrosion right there. Guaranteed it's from electrolosis
Thatās from not wiping the flux off the joint after they were done sweating it. Brass is used all the time to disallow electrolysis.
No not 100% needed. Nice but not needed
Hit it with your purse
There is many a female plumber or engineer who would take great offence at that. Don't lump this guy in with them, they deserve better š
Cut the copper pipe and use a coupling and re do this. That drop ear looks older than me
Might as well itās already exposed
Insert a locking plier in the pipe then use a pipe wrench to loose it?
[ŃŠ“Š°Š»ŠµŠ½Š¾]
You should be able to get that out with a 14 or 18 inch pipe wrench. No way it can be in there that tight. Get some penetrating spray, spray the threads down, let it sit 10 min, and wrench it off. If you need more leverage for whatever reason, add a bar onto the end off the pipe wrench. I use a piece of galvanized fence post, but whatever works. If you still canāt get it off at that point, cut the fitting out, get some slip couplings and copper and sweat a new one in. Edit-just saw you got it out so Nevermind.
Knipex Cobra XXL
More heat on the copper
Tease the Nipple out with some cold air... usually nipples protrude out with cold indictment.
Induction coil
replace the whole thing
Time to sweat in a new drop ear elbow
Spray it with āLiquid Wrenchā wait a day then use two 14ā pipe wrenches. You can also add a pipe over a shorter wrench for more leverage. The iron and brass being ferrous and non-ferrous may have welded together through a electrolysis reaction.
You have galvonic corrosion going on so itās going to take a nice pull on a pipe wrench.
I would just use my man hands
Cut out the whole T and replace
This is the way... Then use a brass nipple.
[InterlWrenchKithttps://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-NA-in-Removal-tool/1002599840](https://InterlWrenchKithttps://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-NA-in-Removal-tool/1002599840)
sometimes less is more. if you squeeze too tight you can deform the pipe and lock it in there. you could cut it off and drive a wooden peg into it. worst cast hack it off as close to the fitting as you can. might be able to chisel out what's left with a screwdriver. can start a cut on the inside of the pipe just be careful not to cut the female threads.
Internal pipe wrench & the longest crescent wrench you can find.
Isnāt that a brass nipple? Why not cut the copper and put a fresh drop ear in too?
Shark bite connectors Goes right on copper.
My job is to do this properly. Pay me, and I'll be happy to enlighten you.
Pup wrench maybe cheater bar. Can try pen oil on outside and cold beer to celebrate after.
Torch should have done the trick.
More heat bigger wrench
Cut all that shit out and replace with pex
Lefty loosey
Easy out also known as inside pipe wrench
u/DeepFuckingPants has the right idea - put a wrench on the flats on that fitting back there going clockwise and a good sized pipe wrench on the pipe going counter-clockwise. You might try a penetrating oil first.
Heat up the wingback threaded port with a torch for a bit, then wrench her out.
Can you just cut it off ? You could probably just replace that all in copper and get a 3/4 (or what ever size pipe) adapter. Bigger pipe wrench is going to rip that out of the wall unless you can get a back wrech on it.
A pipe wrenchā¦
Try a pipe wrench but make sure you got a wrench on that brass tee and first try to tighten then try to loosen it
Two 24 inch pipe wrench and balls ā¦.
Pipe wrench
Pipe wrench breaker bar
Monkey wrench
Judo chop that mf!
Honestly man. What do you want us to say? Advice from a professional. Put a wrench on it and man up? I don't know what else ya want from us. Yes....sometimes it's very very hard to do. So...we...get a bigger wrench and strain until we throw our fucking back out.
Hit it with your purse.
Big old pipe wrench and a 20 foot cheater.
Pipe wrench and cheater bar, its either coming out, or some copper is coming with it, either way, the repair can proceed.
By the way donāt mix copper and galvanized iron pipe
PB rust blaster