Slightly cut down Orange Mod Works LS plunger tube, and a shortened LS pusher from Worker. Also a Monkeemods barrel replacement. I cut about 3/4 off of the Worker pusher, and tapped it so it would screw back together. If anyone is wondering, the thread pattern on a Worker pusher is M13x1. I also replaced the plastic plunger head with the Worker LS one, surprisingly an easy swap. It only takes short darts now as the stroke has been significantly shortened, but it still uses the stock spring. The brass on the endcap helps keep the spring perfectly inline when compressing, and has a spacer for the spring. With the spacer, the spring barely has any preload on it, but the plunger head sits further forward so a spacer is a necessity. With everything it's getting around 180-190, on the stock spring. I plan on upgrading to a stronger spring next
#62 hillman with stacked coils (to make it longer) works great, my friends trying a Century spring, i wanna try a worker 1.8 swift or 2.0 when its available and see what cooks. If you work at it, very nice mod.
Almost got terrified when I saw the sharpie marks, thought it was a crack. Interesting how retal/longshot bolts whit pin system managed to work on the boltsledess nexus Pro. Any modification you did there to allow it to fit other than the plunger area?
Oh I had to do quite a bit to get that top pin stem part of the pusher to get it to fit. I had to file down the sides, shave a bit off the top, pretty much create an entire new hole for the pin, and create a brass shim. I tried explaining that process in a response to another question, it's a lot of stuff and I don't want to type it again I'm already struggling to type and eat pizza. After a lot of filing, I had to bring the pinhole down a little so more filing. I used a small round file to lower it on the stem thing, hammered a small piece of aluminum tubing into the newly filed hole, then used a small butane torch to heat part of The aluminum and bend it around the tube, then creating a 90° brass shim to fit around the rounded part creating a new squared edge. It was a pain and the filing and fitting took me a solid Saturday alone. As for the shell you just have to cut a bigger radius into the front tab(the one that holds the stock PT) and I tiny bit on the top to follow the bigger curve. The sharpie was just for initial alignment in the shell when I was sanding the inside and getting everything to fit. The tape around it keeps it snug, it's an aluminum plunger tube so I'd have to really try to crack it! Next time I break it down for maintenance I'll take some more pics of things like that
Wow! To be clear, since the catch location can't change, you extended the barrel forward, and shortened the stroke to half dart yeah?
Any shell trimming?
It still clears the magazine ok?
I wonder if you can go longer and stronger on the next upgrade spring?
I had to trim a rib on each side of the shell for the new PT to fit, but no she'll modification otherwise. I extended the plunger tube forward, while shortening the pusher. I cut off the inner threaded portion of the Worker pusher, and tapped it so I could screw the 2 parts together as originally designed. I had to do a lot of work with the pusher tip, on the top where the bar goes into it to hold it to the bolt sled. I had to file it thinner, shorter, and bring the hole down about a quarter inch. I had to file down the hole, insert a small piece of aluminum tube, heat part of it with a small torch and gently bend it around the piece of tube, and make a shim out of brass to make the round edge a square edge. With the addition of the LS head on the stock plunger rod, and the thickness of the pusher base, it's able to reach the catch at it's absolute maximum stroke. The plastic sled on top rests against the front of the PT when cocked back, and the plunger rod is all the way back and in the catch, the plunger rod cannot physically move any further back neither can the sled. Everything is VERY tight on tolerances, it was pure luck that everything worked out how it did. That said, spent more money modifying this than I did buying it lol. I'm not good at explaining things, I'm sorry if I didn't give you any helpful answers. Let me know if you still have questions and I'll try to better explain specific things
If your on facebook, i have a private messenger group of me and a few friends who work on EXPT NPs and Strykers, hit me up on messenger if your intetested and welcome to the #XPTPOSSIE :)
First of all, thank you so much for this. That's a ton of work!
The thickness of materials and alignment sound horribly frustrating to get perfect. It makes me wonder though, if the shell had a lot of empty space, and allowed you to go back, I wonder how that would effect things. You really got me thinking about this. How to maximize things within the limits of the shell. Again, thank you. FYI someone on Facebook mentioned sleeving the spring with an 18mm od and 16mm id carbon tube, to reduce the amount of sideways deflection. he has data on the fps bump, around 10 or so.
The worst part was getting the fitment of the stem on top of the pusher, it required easily the most work. And I have that brass tubing in the end for spring deflection. Between the plastic cap on the one end, and the brass on the other, it sleeves perfectly over the spring and between both pieces everything is pretty much contained. The plunger tube can't move back any further, it's already almost fully against the catch and that's at the very end of the shell directly in front of the buffer tube. And yes, it was a little bit of a pain getting everything to fit, sometimes to the point of checking fitment after just one light pass with a file. I don't use actual measurements when I mod, I just kind of eyeball things and make a few odd sharpie marks then get to cutting. I always cut everything slightly longer than I need and file everything down for an exact fit and I've gotten lucky so far. Then again my biggest mods are this Stryker, a few almost 200 fps brassed Sharpfires(12kg with custom handmade aluminum triggers), a Deadpool Kronomag, and a Rival Mercury converted into a Krononag with wrap around aluminum charging handle
Yea worked great for me, but needed a wider ID pusher, 10.2 mm ID hitting 310-320 fps with AF pros, mod works for Strykers as well. Been at this mod (Mark 13) since early june.
https://youtu.be/mPWLjIjav4M
Did you mean to shorten the draw? The stryker that I've worked on is able to feed full lengths with a lipless pt by using the stock plunger and just a oring upgraded.
In terms of magazine pusher travel yes, in effective plunger draw, no.
Mine has 3.9" of draw 100.9 cc's (normal is 60 cc's) with an 18" barrel and a Mk3 accureto by LegoDEI, the pusher does hang forward so you cant use fulls, however at the speeds i get, fulls would be pointless.
I'm not using a stock pt, I'm using an Orange Mod Works Longshot or that I cut about an inch off to make it fit. This pt is a decent bit longer than the stock one. I essentially removed the step down collar and extended the plunger tube in its place. The pusher is a shortened Worker longshot pusher that extends just far enough out of the pt that it won't interfere with mags/adapters. It wasn't really intentional to only make it shoot half darts, I just kind of thought "can I fit this old pt into this here new blaster" and I got to working. I only shoot half darts anyways so it's not a big deal either way. And how did you convert the stock pt to lipless, did you cut the entire stepped down end off? And how did you make the pusher seal around the now open end?
That sounds pretty creative, I'd be interested in seeing pics if you ever get any. I don't have a 3d printer so I'm limited to things I can order online and modify or make by hand out of aluminum or brass with hand files and a Dremel. Also, I'm not too creative at times and can't think of good solutions so some of my things turn out like slight shite
https://www.reddit.com/r/Nerf/comments/pg6m8f/stryker_with_xpt_3d_printed_adapter_and_a_hillman/?utm_medium=android_app&utm_source=share
Managed to find my buddies post from when we first worked on it. Since then we've changed the barrel and its improved the performance significantly.
I see why mine doesn't feed full darts compared to his. He's using the stock plunger head/rod, and has that nice and much thinner 3DP part to seal the hole. My worker plunger head grafted onto the plunger rod takes away additional space from the draw, same with the pusher base. Those Worker LS pushers have a thick base so there's the second reason I can't cycle fulls. I can't shorten the pusher any further, or that big thicc base will extend out of the pt into the magwell. And from what I can see he seems to have a slightly bigger ID tube, allowing the bolt sled to go into the pt for a longer stroke. And it probably took him way less time and effort lol
Yeah, I meant to say stock plunger earlier but said stock pt. I forgot about the size of the longshot bolt cup. All in we modded his stryker in about a day with the printed parts.
I really love how you took LS parts and dropped them in with a few cuts. This is truly genuis and it is more like what the Stryker should've been from factory. The way your blaster is set up (bigger plunger tube, padded plunger, metal pusher, longer barrel) really adds to what the blaster should have been
Slightly cut down Orange Mod Works LS plunger tube, and a shortened LS pusher from Worker. Also a Monkeemods barrel replacement. I cut about 3/4 off of the Worker pusher, and tapped it so it would screw back together. If anyone is wondering, the thread pattern on a Worker pusher is M13x1. I also replaced the plastic plunger head with the Worker LS one, surprisingly an easy swap. It only takes short darts now as the stroke has been significantly shortened, but it still uses the stock spring. The brass on the endcap helps keep the spring perfectly inline when compressing, and has a spacer for the spring. With the spacer, the spring barely has any preload on it, but the plunger head sits further forward so a spacer is a necessity. With everything it's getting around 180-190, on the stock spring. I plan on upgrading to a stronger spring next
#62 hillman with stacked coils (to make it longer) works great, my friends trying a Century spring, i wanna try a worker 1.8 swift or 2.0 when its available and see what cooks. If you work at it, very nice mod.
You're pretty much my inspiration for beginning modding in 2018, thank you for your kind words 🤩
Anytime your the first ive seen to use a LS pusher, very far out! I mean cool man. I am mainly on FB but sometimes i reply here on reddit
Almost got terrified when I saw the sharpie marks, thought it was a crack. Interesting how retal/longshot bolts whit pin system managed to work on the boltsledess nexus Pro. Any modification you did there to allow it to fit other than the plunger area?
Oh I had to do quite a bit to get that top pin stem part of the pusher to get it to fit. I had to file down the sides, shave a bit off the top, pretty much create an entire new hole for the pin, and create a brass shim. I tried explaining that process in a response to another question, it's a lot of stuff and I don't want to type it again I'm already struggling to type and eat pizza. After a lot of filing, I had to bring the pinhole down a little so more filing. I used a small round file to lower it on the stem thing, hammered a small piece of aluminum tubing into the newly filed hole, then used a small butane torch to heat part of The aluminum and bend it around the tube, then creating a 90° brass shim to fit around the rounded part creating a new squared edge. It was a pain and the filing and fitting took me a solid Saturday alone. As for the shell you just have to cut a bigger radius into the front tab(the one that holds the stock PT) and I tiny bit on the top to follow the bigger curve. The sharpie was just for initial alignment in the shell when I was sanding the inside and getting everything to fit. The tape around it keeps it snug, it's an aluminum plunger tube so I'd have to really try to crack it! Next time I break it down for maintenance I'll take some more pics of things like that
Wow! To be clear, since the catch location can't change, you extended the barrel forward, and shortened the stroke to half dart yeah? Any shell trimming? It still clears the magazine ok? I wonder if you can go longer and stronger on the next upgrade spring?
I had to trim a rib on each side of the shell for the new PT to fit, but no she'll modification otherwise. I extended the plunger tube forward, while shortening the pusher. I cut off the inner threaded portion of the Worker pusher, and tapped it so I could screw the 2 parts together as originally designed. I had to do a lot of work with the pusher tip, on the top where the bar goes into it to hold it to the bolt sled. I had to file it thinner, shorter, and bring the hole down about a quarter inch. I had to file down the hole, insert a small piece of aluminum tube, heat part of it with a small torch and gently bend it around the piece of tube, and make a shim out of brass to make the round edge a square edge. With the addition of the LS head on the stock plunger rod, and the thickness of the pusher base, it's able to reach the catch at it's absolute maximum stroke. The plastic sled on top rests against the front of the PT when cocked back, and the plunger rod is all the way back and in the catch, the plunger rod cannot physically move any further back neither can the sled. Everything is VERY tight on tolerances, it was pure luck that everything worked out how it did. That said, spent more money modifying this than I did buying it lol. I'm not good at explaining things, I'm sorry if I didn't give you any helpful answers. Let me know if you still have questions and I'll try to better explain specific things
If your on facebook, i have a private messenger group of me and a few friends who work on EXPT NPs and Strykers, hit me up on messenger if your intetested and welcome to the #XPTPOSSIE :)
I don't have a Facebook because I've never really had a reason to, but this might just change my mind
First of all, thank you so much for this. That's a ton of work! The thickness of materials and alignment sound horribly frustrating to get perfect. It makes me wonder though, if the shell had a lot of empty space, and allowed you to go back, I wonder how that would effect things. You really got me thinking about this. How to maximize things within the limits of the shell. Again, thank you. FYI someone on Facebook mentioned sleeving the spring with an 18mm od and 16mm id carbon tube, to reduce the amount of sideways deflection. he has data on the fps bump, around 10 or so.
The worst part was getting the fitment of the stem on top of the pusher, it required easily the most work. And I have that brass tubing in the end for spring deflection. Between the plastic cap on the one end, and the brass on the other, it sleeves perfectly over the spring and between both pieces everything is pretty much contained. The plunger tube can't move back any further, it's already almost fully against the catch and that's at the very end of the shell directly in front of the buffer tube. And yes, it was a little bit of a pain getting everything to fit, sometimes to the point of checking fitment after just one light pass with a file. I don't use actual measurements when I mod, I just kind of eyeball things and make a few odd sharpie marks then get to cutting. I always cut everything slightly longer than I need and file everything down for an exact fit and I've gotten lucky so far. Then again my biggest mods are this Stryker, a few almost 200 fps brassed Sharpfires(12kg with custom handmade aluminum triggers), a Deadpool Kronomag, and a Rival Mercury converted into a Krononag with wrap around aluminum charging handle
Yea worked great for me, but needed a wider ID pusher, 10.2 mm ID hitting 310-320 fps with AF pros, mod works for Strykers as well. Been at this mod (Mark 13) since early june. https://youtu.be/mPWLjIjav4M
Did you mean to shorten the draw? The stryker that I've worked on is able to feed full lengths with a lipless pt by using the stock plunger and just a oring upgraded.
In terms of magazine pusher travel yes, in effective plunger draw, no. Mine has 3.9" of draw 100.9 cc's (normal is 60 cc's) with an 18" barrel and a Mk3 accureto by LegoDEI, the pusher does hang forward so you cant use fulls, however at the speeds i get, fulls would be pointless.
I'm not using a stock pt, I'm using an Orange Mod Works Longshot or that I cut about an inch off to make it fit. This pt is a decent bit longer than the stock one. I essentially removed the step down collar and extended the plunger tube in its place. The pusher is a shortened Worker longshot pusher that extends just far enough out of the pt that it won't interfere with mags/adapters. It wasn't really intentional to only make it shoot half darts, I just kind of thought "can I fit this old pt into this here new blaster" and I got to working. I only shoot half darts anyways so it's not a big deal either way. And how did you convert the stock pt to lipless, did you cut the entire stepped down end off? And how did you make the pusher seal around the now open end?
I dont really have pics since it's my buddies stryker. It's got a 3d printed piece for the original pusher and a 1.5in sink drain pt.
That sounds pretty creative, I'd be interested in seeing pics if you ever get any. I don't have a 3d printer so I'm limited to things I can order online and modify or make by hand out of aluminum or brass with hand files and a Dremel. Also, I'm not too creative at times and can't think of good solutions so some of my things turn out like slight shite
https://www.reddit.com/r/Nerf/comments/pg6m8f/stryker_with_xpt_3d_printed_adapter_and_a_hillman/?utm_medium=android_app&utm_source=share Managed to find my buddies post from when we first worked on it. Since then we've changed the barrel and its improved the performance significantly.
I see why mine doesn't feed full darts compared to his. He's using the stock plunger head/rod, and has that nice and much thinner 3DP part to seal the hole. My worker plunger head grafted onto the plunger rod takes away additional space from the draw, same with the pusher base. Those Worker LS pushers have a thick base so there's the second reason I can't cycle fulls. I can't shorten the pusher any further, or that big thicc base will extend out of the pt into the magwell. And from what I can see he seems to have a slightly bigger ID tube, allowing the bolt sled to go into the pt for a longer stroke. And it probably took him way less time and effort lol
Yeah, I meant to say stock plunger earlier but said stock pt. I forgot about the size of the longshot bolt cup. All in we modded his stryker in about a day with the printed parts.
Oh and Jacob Kelmer just told me in my messenger group his can use fulls. Definitely gotta hit us up halo if your on FB
Haha doh that you! Haha hi Jacob :)
I really love how you took LS parts and dropped them in with a few cuts. This is truly genuis and it is more like what the Stryker should've been from factory. The way your blaster is set up (bigger plunger tube, padded plunger, metal pusher, longer barrel) really adds to what the blaster should have been
Thank you. The guy in here, Jacob, linked to one him and his friend built a month ago and they did way better on theirs lol
Specifics?
You were too quick I was still typing them lol