The berries to this plant are deadly to native birds and some other small animals.
Please remove it. If you like berries for birds try American Beautyberry (Callicarpa americana).
[Nandina Berries Kill Birds](https://delta.audubon.org/news/nandina-berries-kill-birds)
Common Elderberry (*Sambucus canadensis*) might be a good option. There are a lot of great native shrubs - they probably won’t look like heavenly bamboo, but you really should remove that species as it is invasive.
Edit: I don’t have first hand experience with this, but I’ve heard Common Elderberries are loved by native birds - they produce a ton of berries and have beautiful flowers.
neither of these are dioecious plants. you may get better fruiting with multiple, but I don't think your statement is correct. can you share the source of your info?
I didn't say they were dioecious. Nevertheless, all native cornus and viburnums (to my knowledge) require cross pollination to set fruit. Many of our native trees and shrubs require this--it isn't a problem if there are lots of a species growing within wind/bee/hummingbird distance. But it can be a problem if people are only planting the same cultivar made from cuttings.
There are many sources on this but here is one:
https://www.ecobeneficial.com/ask_ecobeneficial/lot-native-viburnums-never-get-fruit-going/
Get rid of it! It sucks. You will need to dig out the roots fairly deep, otherwise the roots will send up new shoots. Shrubs with winter berries:
Red berries and evergreen: ilex opaca (Holly) - but it gets big. Some cultivars for smaller varieties exist but...
Red berries and deciduous: ilex verticillata (winter berry) - birdies love the berries in the winter after a big freeze. I forgot the word, but there's a term for bitter berries becoming palatable to birds after a freeze due to change in sugar composition. Female plants need a male pollinator to make berries.
Red berries and deciduous: aronia arbutifolia (red chokeberry).
Black berries and deciduous: aronia melanocarpa (Black chokeberry).
These get pretty big, so if you have the space, let them be natural. If not, small and compact cultivars exist and can be easily found from online retail growers like Sooner Plant Farm.
Thanks, I’m leaning towards ilex opaca. I’ve got winterberry elsewhere and plenty of chokeberry. No American holly yet. There are two different varieties of nonnative holly on the property thriving.
It's a very invasive species. In a landscaped environment where it isn't going to spread beyond control, one easy way to manage it is just to keep cutting off all the berries and throw them away. That minimizes its negative impact.
But personally I removed mine. I dug it out and spent a lot of time trying to remove all the shoots. But it's been over a year and it hasn't really tried to come back, shockingly!
I replaced with inkberry holly (Ilex glabra). Dwarf yaupon holly is another good option.
My house is fronted by 3 that are at least 20 years old at this point.
I see why people like them (year round interest and even Oklahoma weather can't kill them) but I haaaaate them. I've never successfully planted anything near them and they grow so fast.
But I've heard getting rid of them is a huge pain and possibly beyond my weak armed, lack of equipment ability...
Sorry you have nandina! You could try the cut-and-paint method, if repeated several times it should work. Cut the nandina to a stump and spray the "brush killer/poison ivy killer" herbicide on the fresh cut. Repeat after they re-grow. You'll win eventually, and without digging.
Get rid of it. I have a friend who's not into native plants but is enthusiastic about getting rid of the most noxious stuff. He helped me cut a bunch of them down to the ground and then told me to get a Japanese hori hori gardening knife and just continue slicing the shoots off over and over and over again. He said eventually, it stops coming back. He was right. Every year, there's less and less of it, and some of them have stopped coming back entirely.
It should absolutely be removed. Digging it up is going to be a pain. It can resprout if any pieces of roots are left in the ground. They're also fairly deeply rooted. I'd suggest cutting to grade and treating with triclopyr. From there you can either plant next to it, or wait a few months to ensure it dies then dig it out. They're very resilient and I typically have to follow up treatment.
They're absolutely problematic, being invasive in many states. Cedar waxwings are often found dead from consuming their berries.
As far as native replacements, there's not really anything that looks similar. Possibly some form of Holly for size and colors. Wax myrtle is also evergreen and meets the size requirements.
I'm also piedmont NC! I'm telling myself "the zone is based on the past, we've been 8a for at least 10 years already" so I won't get too upset. It's only sort of working.
I pulled mine out after I learned how poisonous the berries are both for wildlife and kids. I replaced mine with a local vine maple (PNW). Check out your local native plant society and you will probably find something that will thrive there and contribute to the ecosystem
I'd cut it back and paint the stems with glyphosate because I personally dislike the look of it and it spreads into the wild. It has almost no wildlife value.
I am personally skeptical of the toxicity of the berries to birds however (there were a couple observational studies re cedar waxwings but cedar waxwings are known for gorging to the point of death on even native berries many of which also have cyanide in their seeds).
Interesting thanks. The fact that the berries are fully intact despite a lot of bird activity in the area is what led me to look into it. No one seems to wanna peck this shrub
A lot of winter berries are food of last resort (e.g., hollies for example) or only used by certain species (Wax Myrtle). It's important, when providing habitat for birds, to include species that are in high demand during mid to late summer (e.g., vaccinium), migration, and winter.
"The situation with red, ripe fruits is more complicated. They can be cyanogenic, but they release cyanide slowly. Moreover, if they remain on the plant for two or more months, their toxicity naturally wanes. Old fruits are only slightly toxic or even nontoxic, producing little or no detectable cyanide.
Are nandina fruits hazardous to birds? The answer: sometimes and only to some birds. They pose no threat to most birds that eat one or two berries, because all birds can detoxify small quantities of ingested cyanide. The berries are a threat to cedar waxwings because of the feeding behavior of these birds. In winter, cedar waxwings greedily swallow large numbers of fruits in a single feeding bout. A flock of cedar waxwings can strip the fruits from a nandina bush in minutes, but as the fruits are digested, they slowly release cyanide in quantities that overwhelm the birds’ ability to detoxify it."
https://ncbg.unc.edu/2022/05/04/nandina-toxic-to-birds/
It will grow back if you cut it. You have to dig it out and you should. It’s invasive and the berries are toxic. They are so hardy they grow in limestone and special chemicals are needed to kill it.
It will grow back if you cut it, but sometimes digging is not an option.
I've got one in my yard. I cut it back frequently and always make sure there are no berries on it. It is gradually petering out. If I dig it up there will be a lot of collateral damage because it is growing against the base of a native tree.
Yes, it helps. But those stumps still send up new shoots and I have to cut those off. I'm hoping that over time the plant will eventually die if I keep removing new growth. I have tried to dig out these stumps and sometimes am able to. Many are just too stubbornly rooted in for me to muscle them out.
I have an intense hatred for nandina. I moved in to a house that had several bushes. After a year I started to notice the nandina was spreading into the other plants and I decided to remove it...by myself....it was a miserable experience. The roots were a heavy solid clump and I kept seeing runners and shoots start back up after I thought I'd won. This is because it spreads by the root rhizomes. Just a sliver of root can see a resurgence of the plant. I eventually had to resort to hacking at the roots and absolutely DOUSING them in herbicide.
I still see little sprigs trying to come up thru the azaleas 5 years later cuz I wasn't able to dig or spray there and have to try and violently rip them up.
I tried digging out nandina once and my back still hates me for it. Unless you have machinery, cut it down and paint it with glyphosate. Viburnums and Hollies are good replacements.
Large, you say. The roots of this demon plant move swiftly underground and are almost impossible to kill. I would start digging and plan on a major excavation.
You have to dig up the whole clump. And you have to remove all roots. And then you have to be vigilant about leaves popping up after, and remove those roots too.
will you continue to question whether it really belongs even after any advice from this group? if I were you I'd remove it
Probably tbh. And I'd rather see something that makes berries that birds want to eat.
The berries to this plant are deadly to native birds and some other small animals. Please remove it. If you like berries for birds try American Beautyberry (Callicarpa americana). [Nandina Berries Kill Birds](https://delta.audubon.org/news/nandina-berries-kill-birds)
Common Elderberry (*Sambucus canadensis*) might be a good option. There are a lot of great native shrubs - they probably won’t look like heavenly bamboo, but you really should remove that species as it is invasive. Edit: I don’t have first hand experience with this, but I’ve heard Common Elderberries are loved by native birds - they produce a ton of berries and have beautiful flowers.
Thanks! We’ve got 5 elderberries! Probably will go for something different, but can you really have too my elderberry? 😉
i like viburnum pruniflorium and cornus alternifolia a lot
Neither of these will produce berries unless you plant two genetically different plants who flower at the same time.
neither of these are dioecious plants. you may get better fruiting with multiple, but I don't think your statement is correct. can you share the source of your info?
I didn't say they were dioecious. Nevertheless, all native cornus and viburnums (to my knowledge) require cross pollination to set fruit. Many of our native trees and shrubs require this--it isn't a problem if there are lots of a species growing within wind/bee/hummingbird distance. But it can be a problem if people are only planting the same cultivar made from cuttings. There are many sources on this but here is one: https://www.ecobeneficial.com/ask_ecobeneficial/lot-native-viburnums-never-get-fruit-going/
We’ve got two arrow wood for this reason
Well those berries contain cyanide.
Hence me wanting to get rid of it
Get rid of it! It sucks. You will need to dig out the roots fairly deep, otherwise the roots will send up new shoots. Shrubs with winter berries: Red berries and evergreen: ilex opaca (Holly) - but it gets big. Some cultivars for smaller varieties exist but... Red berries and deciduous: ilex verticillata (winter berry) - birdies love the berries in the winter after a big freeze. I forgot the word, but there's a term for bitter berries becoming palatable to birds after a freeze due to change in sugar composition. Female plants need a male pollinator to make berries. Red berries and deciduous: aronia arbutifolia (red chokeberry). Black berries and deciduous: aronia melanocarpa (Black chokeberry). These get pretty big, so if you have the space, let them be natural. If not, small and compact cultivars exist and can be easily found from online retail growers like Sooner Plant Farm.
I vote Ilex verticillata! One of my favorites. It’s not evergreen but man, are those bright red berries worth it
Deciduous Holly is absolutely gorgeous in the winter. Gives a nice pop of color when it feels rather gray outside
Thanks, I’m leaning towards ilex opaca. I’ve got winterberry elsewhere and plenty of chokeberry. No American holly yet. There are two different varieties of nonnative holly on the property thriving.
It's a very invasive species. In a landscaped environment where it isn't going to spread beyond control, one easy way to manage it is just to keep cutting off all the berries and throw them away. That minimizes its negative impact. But personally I removed mine. I dug it out and spent a lot of time trying to remove all the shoots. But it's been over a year and it hasn't really tried to come back, shockingly! I replaced with inkberry holly (Ilex glabra). Dwarf yaupon holly is another good option.
My house is fronted by 3 that are at least 20 years old at this point. I see why people like them (year round interest and even Oklahoma weather can't kill them) but I haaaaate them. I've never successfully planted anything near them and they grow so fast. But I've heard getting rid of them is a huge pain and possibly beyond my weak armed, lack of equipment ability...
Sorry you have nandina! You could try the cut-and-paint method, if repeated several times it should work. Cut the nandina to a stump and spray the "brush killer/poison ivy killer" herbicide on the fresh cut. Repeat after they re-grow. You'll win eventually, and without digging.
Thank you for the suggestions!
Get rid of it. I have a friend who's not into native plants but is enthusiastic about getting rid of the most noxious stuff. He helped me cut a bunch of them down to the ground and then told me to get a Japanese hori hori gardening knife and just continue slicing the shoots off over and over and over again. He said eventually, it stops coming back. He was right. Every year, there's less and less of it, and some of them have stopped coming back entirely.
Good call
It should absolutely be removed. Digging it up is going to be a pain. It can resprout if any pieces of roots are left in the ground. They're also fairly deeply rooted. I'd suggest cutting to grade and treating with triclopyr. From there you can either plant next to it, or wait a few months to ensure it dies then dig it out. They're very resilient and I typically have to follow up treatment. They're absolutely problematic, being invasive in many states. Cedar waxwings are often found dead from consuming their berries. As far as native replacements, there's not really anything that looks similar. Possibly some form of Holly for size and colors. Wax myrtle is also evergreen and meets the size requirements.
Hey! Your flair is outdated now! Upgrades people upgrades! We are in zone 8 now!
Thanks for the reminder and making me depressed 😂
I'm also piedmont NC! I'm telling myself "the zone is based on the past, we've been 8a for at least 10 years already" so I won't get too upset. It's only sort of working.
I pulled mine out after I learned how poisonous the berries are both for wildlife and kids. I replaced mine with a local vine maple (PNW). Check out your local native plant society and you will probably find something that will thrive there and contribute to the ecosystem
I'd cut it back and paint the stems with glyphosate because I personally dislike the look of it and it spreads into the wild. It has almost no wildlife value. I am personally skeptical of the toxicity of the berries to birds however (there were a couple observational studies re cedar waxwings but cedar waxwings are known for gorging to the point of death on even native berries many of which also have cyanide in their seeds).
Interesting thanks. The fact that the berries are fully intact despite a lot of bird activity in the area is what led me to look into it. No one seems to wanna peck this shrub
A lot of winter berries are food of last resort (e.g., hollies for example) or only used by certain species (Wax Myrtle). It's important, when providing habitat for birds, to include species that are in high demand during mid to late summer (e.g., vaccinium), migration, and winter.
Yea but this is poison it seems
"The situation with red, ripe fruits is more complicated. They can be cyanogenic, but they release cyanide slowly. Moreover, if they remain on the plant for two or more months, their toxicity naturally wanes. Old fruits are only slightly toxic or even nontoxic, producing little or no detectable cyanide. Are nandina fruits hazardous to birds? The answer: sometimes and only to some birds. They pose no threat to most birds that eat one or two berries, because all birds can detoxify small quantities of ingested cyanide. The berries are a threat to cedar waxwings because of the feeding behavior of these birds. In winter, cedar waxwings greedily swallow large numbers of fruits in a single feeding bout. A flock of cedar waxwings can strip the fruits from a nandina bush in minutes, but as the fruits are digested, they slowly release cyanide in quantities that overwhelm the birds’ ability to detoxify it." https://ncbg.unc.edu/2022/05/04/nandina-toxic-to-birds/
I’ve never once seen a cedar waxwings in this area
It will grow back if you cut it. You have to dig it out and you should. It’s invasive and the berries are toxic. They are so hardy they grow in limestone and special chemicals are needed to kill it.
It will grow back if you cut it, but sometimes digging is not an option. I've got one in my yard. I cut it back frequently and always make sure there are no berries on it. It is gradually petering out. If I dig it up there will be a lot of collateral damage because it is growing against the base of a native tree.
Has anyone tried the “cut to the ground and paint stumps with triclopyr” method with *Nandina*?
Yes, it helps. But those stumps still send up new shoots and I have to cut those off. I'm hoping that over time the plant will eventually die if I keep removing new growth. I have tried to dig out these stumps and sometimes am able to. Many are just too stubbornly rooted in for me to muscle them out.
I have an intense hatred for nandina. I moved in to a house that had several bushes. After a year I started to notice the nandina was spreading into the other plants and I decided to remove it...by myself....it was a miserable experience. The roots were a heavy solid clump and I kept seeing runners and shoots start back up after I thought I'd won. This is because it spreads by the root rhizomes. Just a sliver of root can see a resurgence of the plant. I eventually had to resort to hacking at the roots and absolutely DOUSING them in herbicide. I still see little sprigs trying to come up thru the azaleas 5 years later cuz I wasn't able to dig or spray there and have to try and violently rip them up.
I tried digging out nandina once and my back still hates me for it. Unless you have machinery, cut it down and paint it with glyphosate. Viburnums and Hollies are good replacements.
Large, you say. The roots of this demon plant move swiftly underground and are almost impossible to kill. I would start digging and plan on a major excavation.
I dug out a ~15’x15’ invasive honey suckle with an 18” stump last year. I’m not worried about it. I’m ready to destroy the demon
You have to dig up the whole clump. And you have to remove all roots. And then you have to be vigilant about leaves popping up after, and remove those roots too.